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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHIVI/ICIVIH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


Technical  nmi  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibiiographiques 


The 
tot^ 


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D 


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D 


D 
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0 


Coloured  covers/ 
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Couverture  endommagAe 


Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
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I      I    Includes  supplementary  material/ 

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method: 


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Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  gtand  pour  6tre 
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et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  nicessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  m^thode. 


1 

2 

3 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

«f^ 


■ 


'•n 


ASTORIA. 


PEOPLE'S  EDITION. 


^P" 


ASTORIA; 


•oC 


OB, 


ANECDOTES  OF  AN  ENTERPRISE 


BBTOND  TBS 


EOOKY  MOUNTAINS. 


WASHINGTON  lEVING. 


AUTHOB'8   BBTXSJED   EDITION. 
ooMPLXTs  IN  oira  TOLUm. 


MSW  TOBXt 

G.  P.  PUTNAM'S  SONS, 

VOVETH  AYSNCE  ANI)  TWSNTT-THIBD  gTBOT. 


Bntered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  yew  1868,  by 

Q.  P.  Putnam  and  Son. 

Id  Che  Clerk's  Office  of  the  District  Court  for  the  Southern  DIstriot  of 

New  lork. 


32041 


/  -^ 


nO'RODUCTION. 


of 


,N 


IN  tbe  course  of  occasional  yisits  to  Canada 
many  years  since,  I  became  intimately  ac- 
quainted with  some  of  the  principal  part- 
ners of  the  great  Northwest  Fur  Company, 
who  at  that  time  lived  in  genial  style  at  Montreal, 
and  kept  almost  open  house  for  the  stranger.  At 
Jieir  hospitable  boards  I  occasionally  met  with 
partners,  and  clerks,  and  hardy  fur  traders  from  the 
interior  posts;  men  who  had  passed  years  remote 
from  civilized  society,  among  distant  and  savage 
tribes,  and  who  had  wonders  to  recount  of  their  wide 
and  wild  peregrinations,  their  hunting  exploits,  and 
their  perilous  adventures  and  hair-breadth  escapes 
among  the  Indians.  I  was  at  an  age  when  imag- 
ination lends  its  coloring  to  ever3rthing,  and  the 
stories  of  these  Sinbads  of  the  wilderness  made  the 
life  of  a  trapper  and  fur  trader  perfect  romance  to 
I  even  meditated  at  one  time  a  visit  to  the  re- 


me. 


mote  posts  of  the  company  in  the  boats  which  annu- 
ally ascended  the  lakes  and  rivers,  being  thereto  in- 
vited by  one  of  the  partners ;  and  I  have  ever  since 
regretted,  that  I  was  prevented  by  circumstances  from 
carrying  my  intention  into  effect.  From  those  early 
impressions,  the  grand  enterprise  of  the  great  fur 
companies,  and  the  hazardous  errantry  of  their  asso* 
ciates  in  the  wild  parts  of  our  vast  continent,  have 


VI 


INTRODUCTION, 


I   ': 


always  beon  themes  of  charmed  interest  to  me ;  and 
I  have  felt  anxious  to  get  at  the  details  of  their  ad- 
venturous expeditions  among  the  savage  tribes  that 
peopled  the  depths  of  the  wilderness. 

About  two  years  ago,  not  long  afler  my  return 
from  a  tour  upon  the  prairies  of  the  far  West,  I  had 
a  conversation  with  my  friend,  Mr.  John  Jacob  Astor, 
relative  to  that  portion  of  our  country,  and  to  the 
adventurous  traders  to  Santa  F^  and  the  Columbia. 
This  led  him  to  avert  to  a  great  enterprise  set  on 
foot  and  conducted  by  him,  beiireen  twenty  and 
thirty  years  since,  hav;ng  for  its  object  to  carry  the 
fur  trade  across  the  Eocky  Motmtains,  and  to  sweep 
the  shores  of  the  Pacific. 

Finding  that  I  took  an  iiuerest  in  the  subject,  he 
expressed  a  regret  that  the  true  nature  and  extent 
of  his  enterprise  and  its  ncuional  character  and  im- 
portance had  never  been  understood,  and  a  wish  that 
I  would  undertake  to  give  an  account  of  it  The 
suggestion  struck  upon  the  chord  of  early  association* 
already  vibrating  in  my  mind.  It  occurred  to  me 
that  a  work  of  this  kiud  might  comprise  a  variety  of 
those  curious  details,  so  interesting  to  me,  illustrative 
of  the  fur  trade ;  of  its  remote  and  adventurous  en- 
terprises, and  of  the  various  people,  and  tribes,  and 
castes,  and  characters,  civilized  and  savage,  affected 
by  its  operations.  The  journals,  and  letters,  also,  of 
the  adventurers  by  sea  and  land  employed  by  Mr. 
Astor  in  his  comprehensive  project,  might  throw  light 
upon  portions  of  our  country  quite  out  of  the  track 
of  ordinary  travel,  and  as  yet  but  little  known.  I 
diereforefelt  disposed  to  undertake  the  task,  provided 
documents  of  sufficient  extent  and  minuteness  could 
be  furnished  to  me.  All  the  papers  relative  to  the 
enterprise  was  accordingly  submitted  to  my  inspeo* 
lion.     Among  them  were  journals  and  letters  nar 


INTRODUCTION, 


lo- 
ir 


rating  expeditions  by  sea,  and  journeys  to  and  fro 
across  the  R(cky  Mountains  by  routes  before  untrav- 
elled,  together  with  documents  illustrative  of  savage 
and  colonial  life  on  the  borders  of  the  Pacific. 
With  such  material  in  hand,  I  undertook  the  work. 
The  trouble  of  rummaging  among  business  papers, 
and  of  collecting  and  collating  facts  from  amidst 
tedious  and  commonplace  details,  was  spared  me  by 
my  nephew,  Pierre  M.  Irving,  who  acted  as  my  pi- 
oneer, and  to  whom  I  am  greatly  indebted  for 
smoothing  my  path  and  lightening  my  labors. 

As  the  journals,  on  which  I  chiefly  depended,  had 
been  kept  by  men  of  business,  intent  upon  the  main 
object  of  the  enterprise,  and  but  little  versed  in  sci- 
ence, or  curious  about  matters  not  immediately  bear- 
ing upon  their  interests,  and  as  they  were  written 
often  in  moments  of  fatigue  or  hurry,  amid  the  in- 
conveniences of  wild  encampments,  they  were  often 
meagre  in  their  details,  furnishing  hints  to  provoke 
rather  than  narratives  to  satisfy  inquiry.  I  have, 
therefore,  availed  myself  occasionally  of  collateral 
lights  supplied  by  the  published  journals  of  other 
travellers  who  have  visited  the  scenes  described: 
such  as  Messrs.  Lewis  and  Clarke,  Bradbury,  Breck- 
enridge.  Long,  Franchere,  and  Ross  Cox,  and  make 
a  general  acknowledgment  of  aid  received  from  these 
quarters. 

The  work  I  here  present  to  the  public,  is  neces- 
sarily of  a  rambling  and  somewhat  disjointed  nature, 
comprising  various  expeditions  and  adventures  by 
land  and  sea.  The  facts,  however,  will  prove  to  be 
linked  and  banded  together  by  one  grand  scheme, 
devised  and  conducted  by  a  master  spirit ;  one  set 
of  characters,  also,  continues  throughout,  appearing 
occasionally,  though  sometimes  at  lung  intervals,  and 
the  whole  enterprise  winib  up  by  a  regular  catastro* 


t 


h 


vUi 


INTRODUCTION. 


phe ;  so  that  tli.*  work,  without  any  labored  attempt 
at  aitificial  coiibtruction,  actually  possesses  much  of 
that  unity  so  m?ach  sought  afler  in  works  of  fictioni 
and  considered  so  important  to  the  interest  of  everjr 
history 


M 


ES 


\ 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  I. 

Oljeets  of  American  enterprise  —  gold  hunting  and  fhr 
trading  —  their  effect  on  colonization  —  early 
French  Canadian  settlers  —  Ottowa  and  Kuron 
hunters — an  Indian  trading  camp  —  courieurs  des 
bois,  or  rangers  of  the  woods — their  roaming  life 

—  their  revels  and  excesses  —  licensed  tradont  — 
missionaries  —  trading  posts  —  primitive  French 
Canadian  merchant  —  Lis  establishment  and  de- 
pendents —  British  Canadian  fur  merchant  —  ori- 
gin of  the  Northwest  Company  —  its  constitution 

—  its  internal  trade  —  a  candidate  for  the  com- 
pany —  privations  in  the  wilderness  —  northwest 
clerks  —  northwest  partners — a  northwest  nabob 

—  feudal  notions  in  the  forests  —  the  lords  of  the 
lakes  —  Fort  Willie"!  —  its  parliamentary  hall 
and  banqueting  room  —  wassailing  in  the  wilder- 

'    nesi, 


Mff 


CHAPTER  n. 

Rise  of  the  Mackinaw  Company  —  attempt  of  tha 
American  government  to  counteract  foreign  influ- 
ence over  the  Indian  tribes  —  John  Jacob  Astor — 
his  birth-place  —  his  arrival  in  the  United  States 
—  what  first  turned  his  attention  to  the  fur  trade  — 
his  character,  enterprises,  and  success  —  his  com- 
munications with  the  American  government  — 
origin  of  the  American  Fur  Company,  . 


17 


w 


X  C0NTE.JT8. 

CHAPTER  nt 

Fur  trade  in  the  Pacilic  —  American  coasting  voyages 
—  Russian  enterprises  —  discovery  of  the  Colum- 
bia River  —  Carver's  project  to  found  a  settlement 
there  —  Mackenzie's  expedition  -^  Lewis  and 
Clarke's  journey  across  the  Rocky  Mountains  — 
Mr.  Astor's  grand  commercial  scheme  —  his  cor- 
respondence on  the  subject  with  Mr.  Jefferson  — 
his  negotiations  with  the  Northwest  Company— 
his  steps  to  carry  his  scheme  into  effect,       .       • 

CHAPTER  IV. 

Two  expeditions  set  on  foot — the  Tonquin  and  her 
crew — Captain  Thorn,  his  character  —  the  part- 
ners and  clerks  —  Canadian  voyageurs,  their  hab- 
its, employments,  dress,  character,  songs  —  expe- 
dition of  a  Canadian  boat  and  its  crew  by  land  and 
water — arrival  at  New  York  —  preparations  for* 
sea  vo3'age  —  northwest  braggarts  —  underhand 
precautions  ~  letter  of  instructions.       .       .       • 

CHAPTER  V. 

Sailing  of  the  Tonquin— a  rigid  commander  and  a 
reckless  crew  —  landsmen  on  shipboard  —  fretHi 
water  sailors  at  sea— ^lidiber  nests  —  ship  fare  — 
a  Labrador  veteran  —  literary  clerks  —  curious 
travellers  —  Robinson  Crusoe's  Island  —  quarter- 
deck quarrels  —  Falkland  Islands  —  a  wild-goose 
chase  —  Port  Egmont  —  epitaph  hunting  —  Old 
Morality  —  penguin  shooting  —  sportsmen  left  in 
the  lurch  —  a  hard  pull  —  further  altercations  — 
arrival  at  Owyhee, 

CHAPTER  VI. 

Owyhee  —  Sandwich  Islanders  —  their  nautical  tal- 
ents —  Tamaahmaah  —  his  navy  —  his  negotia- 
tions —  views  of  Mr.  Astor  with  respect  to  the 


FAM 


S4 


40 


M 


CONTENTS. 


XI 


rA« 


«8 

m- 
nt 
nd 

or- 


S4 


Saudwich  Islands  —  Karakakoro — royal  monop- 
cly  of  pork  —  description  of  the  islanders  —  gay- 
etiep  on  shore  —  chronicler  of  the  island  —  place 
where  Captain  Cook  was  killed  —  John  Young,  a 
nau^ai  governor  —  his  story  —  Waititi  —  a 
royal  residence— a  royal  visit  —  grand  ceremo- 
nials—  close  dealing  —  a  royal  pork  merchant  — 
grievances  of  a  matter-of-fact  man,        .        .       • 

CHAPTER  VIL 


61 


her 

>PTt- 

lab- 
xpe- 
and 
for  a 
hand 


40 


50 


tal* 

totia- 

the 


Departure  from  the  Sandwich  Islands  —  misunder- 
standings —  miseries  of  a  suspicious  man  —  arri- 
val at  the  Columbia  —  dangerous  service  — 
gloomy  apprehensions  —  bars  and  breakers  —  ' 
perils  of  the  ship  —  disasters  of  a  boat's  crew  — 
burial  of  a  Sandwich  Islander,       .        .       c       •        80 

CHAPTER  Vin. 

Hfouth  of  the  Columbia  —  the  native  tribes  —  their 
fishing  —  their  canoes  —  bold  navigators  —  eques- 
trian Indians  and  piscator}*^  Indians,  difference  in 
their  physical  organization  —  search  for  a  trading 
bite — expedition  of  M'Dougal  and  David  Stewart 
—  Comcomly,  the  one-eyed  chieftain  —  influence 
of  wealth  in  savage  life  —  slavery  among  the  na- 
tives —  an  aristocracy  of  Flatheads  —  hospitality 
among .  the  Chinooks  —  Comcomty's  daughter  — 
her  conquest,  . 90 


CHAPTER  IX. 

Pwit  George  —  founding  of  Astoria  —  Indian  vijitor* 
—  their  reception  —  the  CAptain  taboos  the  ship— 
—■departure  of  the  Tonquin  —  conrnfients  on  the 

conduct  of  Captain  Thorn, 9* 

b 


::f 


xi) 


CONTENTS, 


CHAPTER  X. 


PAM 


Dbqufeting  rumors  from  the  interior  —  recoLnoitring 
party  —  preparations  for  a  trading  post —  an  un- 
expected arrival  — a  spy  in  the  camp  — expedition 
into  the  interior  —  shores  of  the  Columbia  — 
Mount  Coffin  — Indian  Sepulchre  —  the  land  of 
spirits  —  Columbian    valley  —  Vancouver's    Point 

—  falls  and  rapids  — a  great  fishing  mart — the 
village  of  Wish-ram  —  difference  between  fishing 
Indians  and  hunting  Indians —  effects  of  habits 
of  trade  on  the  Indian  character  —  post  established 

at  the  Oakinagan,         ,  ....       104 

CHAPTER  XI. 

Alarm  at  Astoria  —  rumor  of  Indian  hostilities  —  pre- 
parations for  defence  —  tragical  fate  of  the  Ton- 

quin, iia 

CHAPTER  XII. 

Gloom*  at  Astoria  —  an  Ingenious  stratagem  —  the 
small-pox  chief — launching  of  the  Dolly  —  an  ar- 
rival—a Canadian  trapper — a  freeman  of  the 
forest  —  an  Iroquois  hunter  —  winter  on  the  Col- 
umbia— festivities  of  New  Year,         ...       139 

CHAPTER  XIII. 

Expedition  by  land  —  Wilson  P.  Hunt — his  character 

—  Donald  M'Kenzie  —  recruiting  service  among 
the  voyageurs  —  a  bark  canoe  —  chapel  of  St. 
Anne  —  votive  offerings  —  pious  carousals  —  a 
ragged  regiment  —  Mackinaw  —  picture  of  at  rad- 
ing  post  —  frolicking  voyageurs  —  swells  and 
swaggerers  —  Indian  coxcombs  —  a  man  of  the 
north  —  jockeyship  of  voyageurs  —  inefficacy  of 
gold  —  weight  of  a  feather  —  Mr.  Ramsay  Crooks 

—  his  character  —  his  risks  among  the  Indians  — 
his  warning  concerning  Sioux    and   Llackfeet  — 

ibarkation  of  recruits  —  parting  scents  between 


CONTENTS. 


XUl 


VAOI 

brothers,  cousins,  wives,  sweethearts,  and  pot  com- 
panions,          141 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

Bt.  Loais  —  its  situation  —  motley  population  — 
French  Creole  traders  and  their  dependents  — Mis- 
souri Fur  Company — Mr.  Manuel  Lisa — Missis- 
sippi boatmen  —  vagrant  Indians  —  Kentuclcy 
hunters  —  old  French  mansion  —  fiddling  —  bil- 
liards— Mr.  Joseph  Miller  —  his  character  —  re- 
cruits —  voyage  up  the  Missouri  —  difficulties  of 
the  river  —  merits  of  Canadian  voyageurs  —  arri- 
val at  the  Nodowa — Mr.  Robert  M'Lellan  joins 
the  party  —  John  Day,  a  Virginia  hunter  —  de- 
scription of  him  —  Mr.  Hunt  returns  to  St.  Louis,       lft3 


CHAPTER  XV. 

Opposition  of  the  Missouri  Fur  Company  —  Blackfeet 
Indians — Pierre  Dorion,  a  half-breed  interpreter 

—  old  Dorion  and  his  hybrid  progeny  —  family 
quarrels  —  cross  purposes  between  Dorion  and  Lisa 

—  renegadoes  from  Nodowa  —  perplexities  of  a 
commander  —  Messrs.  Bradbury'  and  Nuttall  join 
the  expedition  —  legal  embarrassments  of  Pierre 
Dorion — departure  from  St.  Louis  —  conjugal  dis- 
cipline of  a  half-breed  —  annual  swelling  of  the 
rivers  —  Daniel   Boon,  the  patriarch  of  Kentucky 

—  John  Colter — his  adventures  among  the  In- 
dians—  rumors  of  danger  ahead  —  Fort  Osage  — 
an  Indian  war-feast  —  troubles  in  the  Dorion  fam- 
ily —  Buffaloes  and  turkey-buzzards,   .        .        . 

CHAPTER  XVL 

Retnm  of  spring  —  appearance  of  snakes  —  great 
flights  of  wild  pigeons  —  renewal  of  the  voyage  — 
night  encampments  —  Platte  River  —  ceremonials 
on  passiug   it  —  signs  of   Indian  war    parties  — 


169 


r 


I 


ItV  CONTENTS 


PAM 


magnificent  prospect  at  PapilHon  Creek  —  deser- 
tion of  two  hunters  —  an  irruption  into  the  camp  of 
Indian  desperadoes  —  village  of  the  Omahas  — 
anecdotes  of  the  tribe  —  feudal  wars  of  the  Indians 

—  stoi7  of  Rlackbird,  the  famous  Omalia  chief,    .        180 

CHAPTER  XVII. 

Rumors  of  danger  from  the  Sioux  Tetons  —  ruthless 
character  of  those  savages  —  pirates  of  the  Mis- 
souri—  their  affair  with  Crooks  and  M'Lellan  — 
a  trading  expedition  broken  up—  M'Lellan'svow 
of  vengeance  —  uneasiness  in  the  camp  —  deser- 
tions—  departure  from  the  Omaha  village — meet- 
ing with  Jones  and  Carson,  two  adventurous  trap- 
pers —  scientific  pursuits  of  Messrs.  Bradbury  and 
Nuttall  —  zeal  of  a  botanist — adventure  of  Mr. 
Bradbury  with  a  Ponca  Indian  —  expedient  of  the 
pocket  compass  and  microscope  —  a  messenger 
from  Lisa  —  motives  for  pressing  forward,    .       .        196 

CHAPTER  XVIII. 

Camp  gossip  —  deserters  —  recruits  —  Kentucky 
hunters  —  a  veteran  woodman  —  tidings  of  Mr. 
Henrj'  —  danger  from  the  Blackfeet  —  alteration 
of  plans  —  scenery  of  the  river  —  buffalo  roads  — 
iron  ore  —  country  of  the  Sioux  —  a  land  of  dan- 
ger —  apprehensions  of  the  voyageurs  —  Indian 
scouts  — threatened  hostilities  —  a  council  of  war — 
an  array  of  battle  —  a  parley.  —  the  pipe  of  peace 

—  speech-making,        ....••         208 

CHAPTER  XIX. 

The  great  bend  of  the  Missouri  —  Crooks  and  M'Lellan 
meet  with  two  of  their  Indian  opponents  —  wan- 
ton outrage  of  a  white  man  the  cause  of  Indian 
hostility — dangers  and   precautions  —  an    Indian 


CONTENTS, 


XV 


VAM 


war  party  —  dangerous  situation  of  Mr.  Hunt  — 
A  friendly  encampment  —  feasting  and  dancing  — 
approach  of  Manuel  Lisa  and  his  party — a  grim 
meeting  between  old  rivals — Pierre  Dorion  in  a 
fury  —  a  burst  of  chivalry,  •       .       •        • 


231 


CHAPTER  XX. 

Features  of  the  wilderness  —  herds  of  buffalo  —  ante- 
lopes—  their  varieties  and  habits — John  Day  — 
his  hunting  stratagem  —  interview  with  three 
Arickaras  —  negotiations  between  the  rival  parties 

—  the  Left-handed  and  the  Big  Man,  two  Arickara 
chiefs  —  Arickara  village  —  its  inhabitants  —  cer- 
emonials on  landing  —  a  council  lodge  —  grand 
conference  —  speech  of  Lisa  —  negotiation  for 
horses  —  shrewd  suggestion  of  Graj'  Eyes,  an  Aric- 
kara chief —  encampment  of  the  trading  parties,         231 

CHAPTER  XXL 

An  Indian  horse  fair  —  love  of  the  Indians  for  horses 

—  scenes  in  the  Arickara  village  —  Indiai^  hospi- 
tality— duties  of  Indian  women  — game  habits 
of  the  men  — their  indolence  — love  of  gossiping— 
rumors  of  lurking  enemies  —  scouts  —  an  alarm  — 
a  sallying  forth  —  Indian  dogs  —  return  of  a  horse- 
stealing party  —  an  Indian  deputation  —  fresh 
alarms  —  return  of  a  successful  war  party  —  dress 
of  the  Arickaras  —  Indian  toilet  —  triumphal 
entry  of  the  war  party  —  meetings  of  relations 
and  friends  —  Indian  sensibility  —  meeting  of  a 
wounded  warrior  and  his  mother  —  festivities  and 
lamentations,        •....••        241 

CHAPTER  XXn. 

Wilderness  of  the  Far  West  —  great  American  desert 

—  parched  seasons — Black  Hills — Rocky  Moun- 
tains — wandering  and  predatory  hordes — speea* 


'T^ 


ZVl 


CONTENTS, 


FAaa 


lations  on  what  mey  be  the  future  population  — 
appi  )hended  dangers — a  plot  to  desert  —  Rose 
the  interpreter  —  his  sinister  character  —  departr 
ure  from  the  Arickara  village,       ....       Wi 

CHAPTER  XXIII. 


Slimmer  weather  of  the  prairies  —  purity  of  the  at- 
mosphere —  Canadians  on  the  march  —  sickness 
in  the  camp  —  Big  River  —  vulgar  nomenclature 
—  suggestions  about  the  original  Indians  names  — 
camp  of  Cheyennes  —  trade  for  horses  —  charac- 
ter of  the  Cheyennes  —  their  horsemanship  —  his- 
torical anecdotes  of  the  tribe,       .... 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 

New  distribution  of  horses  —  secret  information  of  trea- 
son in  the  camp  —  Rose  the  interpreter  —  his  per- 
fidious character  —  his  plots  —  anecdotes  of  the 
Crow  Indians — notorious  horse  stealers — some 
account  of  Rose — a  desperado  of  the  frontier,     . 

9- 

CHAPTER  XXV. 

Substitute  for  fuel  on  the  prairies  —  fossil  trees  —  fierce- 
ness of  the  buffaloes  when  in  heat  —  three  hunters 
missing  —  signal  fires  and  smokes  —  uneasiness 
concerning  the  lost  men — a  plan  to  forestall  a 
rogue  —  new  arrangement  with  Rose  —  return  of 
the  wanderers, 

CHAPTER  XXVI. 

The  Black  Mountains  —  haunts  of  predatory  Indians  — 
their  wild  and  broken  appearance  —  superstitions 
concerning  them  —  thunder  spirits  —  singular 
noises  in  the  mountains  —  secret  mines  —  hidden 
treasures  —  mountains  in  labor  —  scientific  expla- 
nation —  impassable    defiles  —  black-tuiled     deer 


266 


S72 


277 


CONTENTS 


XVIJ 


YAor 


—  the  bighorn  or  ahsahta  —  pn^spect  from  a  lofty 
height  —  plain  with  herds  of  buffalo  —  distant 
peaks  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  —  alarms  in  the 
camp  —  tracks  of  grizzly  bears  —  dangerous  na- 
ture of  this  animal  —  adventures  of  William  Can- 
non and  John  Day  with  grizzly  bears, 


284 


CHAPTER  XXVII. 

Indian  trial  —  rough  mountain  travelling  •>  oufferings 
from  hunger  and  thirst  —  Powder  River — gaiuC 
in  abundance  —  a  hunter's  paradise  —  mountain 
peak  seen  at  a  great  distance  —  one  of  the  Bighorn 
chain  —  Rocky  Mountains  —  extent  —  appearance 
—  height  —  the  great  American  desert  —  varioui 
characteristics  of  the  mountains  —  Indian  supersti- 
tions concerning  them  —  land  of  souls  —  towns 
of  the  free  and  generous  spirits  —  happy  hunting 
grounds, 


294 


CHAPTER  XXVIII. 

Region  of  the  Crow  Indians  —  scouts  on  the  lookout 

—  visit  from  a  crew  of  hard  riders  —  a  Crow  camp 

—  presents  to  the  Crow  chief  —  bargaining  — 
Crow  bullies  —  Rose  among  his  Indians  friends  — 
parting  with  the  Crows  —  perplexities  among  the 
mountains  —  more  of  the  Crows  —  equestrian 
children — search  after  stragglers,        •       • 


801 


CHAPTER  XXIX. 

Ilonntain  glens — wandering  band  of  savages  —  anec- 
dotes of  Shoshonies  and  Flatheads  —  root  diggers 
—  their  solitary  lurking  habits  —  gnomes  of  the 
mountains  —  Wind  River  —  scarcity  of  food  — 
alteration  of  route  —  the  Pilot  Knobs  or  Tetons  — 
branch  of  the  Colorado  —  hunting  camp,    .        • 


308 


(f»- 


"^ 


I 


•  •• 

XVUl 


coNTEy  rs. 


CHAPTER  XXX. 


FA4M 


A  plentiful  hunting  camp  —  Shoshonie  hunters  —  Ho- 
back*«  River  —  Mad  River  —  encampment  near  the 
Pilot  Knobs  —  a  cousultation  —  preparations  for  a 
periloua  voyage, .        319 

CHAPTER  XXXI. 

A  consultation  whether  to  proceed  by  land  or  water  — 
preparations  for  boat  building  —  an  exploring 
party  —  a  party  of  trappers  det^ached  —  two 
Snake  visitors  —  their  report  concerning  the  river 
—  confirmed  by  the  exploring  party  —  Mad  River 
abandoned  --  arrival  at  Henry's  Fort  —  detach- 
ment of  Robinson,  Hoback,  and  Kezner  to  trap  — 
Mr.  Miller  resolves  to  accompany  them  —  their 
departure, 8S4 

CHAPTER  XXXn. 

Scanty  fare  —  a  mendicant  Snake  —  embarkation  on 
Henry  River  —joy  of  the  ■•'oyageurs  —  arrival  at 
Snake  River  —  rapids  and  breakers  —  beginning 
of  misfortunes —  Snake  encampments  —  parley 
with  a  savage  —  a  second  disaster  —  loss  of  a 
boatman  —  the  Caldron  Linn,      ....        333 

CHAPTER  XXXni. 

Gloomy  council  —  exploring  parties  —  discouraging 
reports  —  disastrous  experiment  —  detachments  in 
quest  of  succor  —  caches,  how  made  —  return  of 
one  of  the  detachments  —  unsuccessful  —  further 
disappointments  —  the  Devil's  Scuttle  Hole,        .        341 

CHAPTER  XXXIV. 

Determination  of  the  party  to  proceed  >)n  foot  —  d*«ar)r 
deserts  between  Snake  River  and  the  Columbia  —' 
distribution  of  effects  preparatory  to  a  march  — 


CCNTENT8. 


za 


PAU 


division  oi  the  party — rugged  marcli  along  th« 
river — wild  and  broltea  sceneiy  —  Slioshonies — 
alarm  of  a  Snake  encampment  —  intercourse  with 
the  Snakes  —  horse  de&ling  —  value  of  a  tin  ket- 
tle—sufferings from  thirst — a  horse  reclaimed  — 
fortitude  of  an  Indian  woman — scarcity  of  fbod— 
dog's  flesh  a  dainty  —  news  of  Mr.  Crooks  and 
his  party  —  painAil  travelling  among  the  moun- 
tains —  snow  storms  —  a  dreary  mountain  pros- 
pect— a  bivouac  during  a  wintry  night — returu 
to  the  river  bank,         .        .        .        .        .       • 


360 


CHAPTER  XXXV. 

« 

4n  unexpected  meeting  —  navigation  in  a  skin  canoa 
—  strange  fears  of  suffering  men  —  hardships  of 
Mr.  Crooks  'and  his  comrades  —  tidings  of 
M'Lellan — a  retrograde  march  —  a  willow  raft  — 
extreme  suffering  of  some  of  the  party  —  illness  of 
Mr.  Crooks  —  impatience  of  some  of  the  men  — 
necessity  of  leaving  the  laggards  behind,     •       • 


864 


CHAPTER  XXXVI. 

Mr.  Runt  overtakes  the  advanced  party  —  Pierre 
Dorion,  and  iiia  skeleton  horse  —  a  Shoshonie 
camp  —  a  justificable  outrage  —  feasting  on  horse 
flesh  —  Mr.  Crooks  brought  to  the  camp  —  under- 
takes to  relieve  his  men  —  the  skin  ferry-boat  — 
frenzy  of  Prevost  —  his  melancholy  fate  —  en- 
feebled state  of  John  Day — Mr.  Crooks  again  left 
behind  -~  the  party  emerge  from  among  the  moun- 
tains —  interview  with  Shoshonies  —  a  guide  pro- 
curod  to  conduct  the  party  across  a  mountain  — 
ferriage  across  Snake  River — reunion  with  Mr. 
Crooks's  men  —  final  departure  from  the  river,    • 


371 


CHAPTER  XXXVII. 
Oeparture  from  Snake  River  —  mountains  to  the  nocta 


IX 


C(NTKNT8. 


;  i 


—  wavworn  travellern — im  Increase  of  the  Dnriun 
family  —  a  camp  of  Shoshonies  —  a  New  Year  fea- 
tival  amonic  the  Snakeit  —  a  wintry  march  through 
the  mountainH  —  a  sunny  prospect,  and  milder 
climate  —  Indian    horse  -  tracks  —  f^rarsy    valleys 

—  a  camp  of  Sciatogas — joy  of  the  travellers  — 
dangers  of  abundance  —  habits  of  the    Sciatogas 

—  fate  of  Carriere  —  the  Umatalla  —  arrival  at 
the  banks  of  the  Columbia  —  tidings  of  the  scat- 
tered members  of  the  expedition  —  scenery  on  the 
Columbia  —  tidings  of  Astoria  —  arrival  at  the 
falls, 380 

CHAPTER  XXXVIII. 

The  village  of  Wish-ram  —  roguery  of  the  inhabitants 

—  their  habitations  —  tidings  of  Astoria  —  of  the 
Toiiquin  massacre  —  thieves  about  the  camp — a 
band  of  braggarts  —  embarkation  —  arrival  at 
Astoria  —  a  joyful  reception — old  comrades  — 
adventures  of  Reed,  M'l^ellan,  and  M'^wenzie, 
among  the  Snake  River  Mountains — rejoicing  at 
Astoria,         .        •        .        .        .        .       .        •       894 

CHAPTER  XXXIX. 

Scanty  fare  during  the  winter  —  a  poor  hunting  ground 

—  the  return  of  the  fishing  season  —  the  uthlecan 
or  smelt  —  its  qualities  —  vast  shoals  of  it  — 
sturgeon  —  Indian  modes  of  taking  it  —  the  sal- 
mon—  different  species  —  nature  of  the  country 
about  the  coast  —  forests  and  forest  trees  —  a  re- 
rurkable  flowering  vine  —  animals  —  birds  — 
reptiles  —  climate  west  of  the  mountains — mild- 
ness of  the  temperature  —  soil  of  the  coast  and  the 
interior, 404 

CHAPTER  XL. 

Vatives  ia  the  neighborhood  of  Astoria  —  their  persons 
•nd  characteristics  —  causes  of  deformity  —  their 


CONTKNTS. 


zxl 


PAoa 


dnM  —  their  contempt  of  beards — ornaments  — 
armor  and  weapons  —  mode  of  flattening  the  head 

—  extent  of  the  custom  —  religious  belief — the 
two  great  npirits  of  the  air  and  of  the  fire  —  priests 
or  mediciM  men  —  the  rival  idols  —  polygamy  a 
cause  of  greatness  —  petty  warfare  —  music,  danc- 
ing, gambling  —  thieving  a  virtue  —  keen  traders 

—  intrusive  habits  —  abhorrence  of  drunkenness 
—anecdote  of  Comcomly,    ..... 


411 


CHAPTER  XLI. 

Spring  arrangements  at  Astoria  —  various  expeditions 
set  out  —  the  Long  Narrows  —  pilfering  Indians 
—  thievish  tribe  at  Wish-ram  —  portage  at  the 
falls  —  portage  by  moonlight  —  an  attack,  a  rout, 
and  a  robbery  —  Indian  cure  for  cowardice  — a 
parley  and  compromise  —  the  dispatch  party  turn 
back  —  meet  Crooks  and  John  Day  —  their  suffer- 
ings —  Indian  perfidy  —  arrival  at  Astoria, 


491 


CHAPTER  XLII. 

Comprehensive  views  —  to  supply  the  Russian  fur  es- 
tablishment—  an  agent  sent  to  Russia  —  project 
of  an  annual  ship  —  the  Beaver  fitted  out  —  her 
equipment  and  crew  —  instructions  to  the  captain 
—  the  Sandwich  Islands  —  rumors  of  the  fate  of 
the  Tonquin— precautions  on  reaching  the  mouth 
of  the  Columbia,   .       ,  * 431 


CHAPTER  XLIII. 

A.ctive  operations  at  Astoria  —  various  expeditions 
fitted  out  —  Robert  Stuart  and  a  party  destined  for 
New  York  —  singular  conduct  of  John  Day  -*-  his 
fate  —  piratical  pass  and  hazardous  portage  —  rat- 
tlesnakes—  their  abhorrence  of  tobacco  —  arrival 
among  the  Wallah-Wallahs  —  purchase  of  horses 


i  il 


11 


lilil 


xxu 


CON  TEN TB. 


PASI 


—  departure  of  Stuarl  and  his  baud  for  the  moun* 
fcalna,     ....•••••       441 

CHAPTER  XLIV. 


Route  of  Mr.  Stuart  —  dreary  wilds —•  thirsty  travel- 
ling —  a  grove  and  streamlet  —  the  Blue  Moun- 
tains —  a  fertile  plain  with  rivulets  —  sulphur 
spring  —  route  along  Snake  River  —  rumors  of 
white  men  —  the  Snake  and  his  horse  —  a  Snake 
guide  —  a  midnight  decampment  —  unexpected 
meeting  with  old  comrades  —  story  of  trappers' 
hardships  —  Salmon  Falls  —  a  great  fishery  — 
mode  of  spearing  salmon  —  arrival  at  the  Caldron 
Linn  —  state  of  the  caches  —  new  resolution  of 
the  three  Kentu>:ky  trappers,        .... 


CHAPTER  XLV. 

The  Snake  River  deserts  —  scanty  fare  —  bewildered 
travellers  --  prowling  Indians  —  a  giant  Crow 
chief  —  a  bulley  rebuked  —  Indian  signals  — 
smoke  on  the  mountains  —  Mad  River — an  alarm 
—  an  Indian  foray  —  a  scamper  —  a  rude  Indian 
joke  —  a  sharp-shooter  balked  of  his  shot,  . 

CHAPTER  XLVI. 

Travellers  unhorsed  —  pedestrian  preparations — pry- 
ing spies  —  bonfires  of  baggage  —  a  march  on 
foot  —  rafting  a  river — ,the  wounded  elk  —  In- 
dian trails — willful  conduct  of  Mr.  M'Lellan  — 
grand  prospect  from  a  mountain  —  distant  craters 
of  volcanoes  —  illness  of  Mr.  Crooks,  .        . 

CHAPTER  XL VII. 

"Win  Jones  and  a  grizzly  bear  —  rocky  heights  — 
mountain  torrents  —  traces  of  M'Lellan  —  volcanic 
nmains — mineral  earths  —  peculiar  clay  for  pot- 
tery-~  dismal  plight  of   M'Lellan  —  starvation — 


457 


468 


479 


CONTENTS. 


XXIK 


PAQI 

shocking  proposition  of  a  desperate  man  —  a 
broken-down  bull  —  a  ravenous  meal  —  Indian 
graves —  hospitable  Snakes  —  a  forlorn  alliance,        ^9 

CHAPTER  XLVIII. 

Spanish  River  scenery  —  trial  of  Crow  Indians  — 
a  snow-storm  —  a  rousing  fire  and  a  buffalo  feast 
—  a  plain  of  salt  —  climbing  a  mountain  —  vol- 
canic summit  —  extinguished  crater  —  marine 
shells  —  encampment  on  a  prairie  —  successful 
hunting  —  good  cheer  —  romantic  scenery  — 
rocky  defile  —  foaming  rapids  —  the  fiery  nar- 
rows,    •       ,...••.•       601 


CHAPTER  XLIX. 

Wintry  storms  —  a  halt  and  council  —  cantonment  for 
the  winter  —  fine  hunting  country  —  game  of  the 
mountains  and  plains —successful  hunting  —  Mr. 
Crooks  and  a  grizzly  bear  —  the  wigwam — big- 
horn and  blacktails — beef  and  venison  —  good 
quarters  and  good  cheer  —  an  alarm  —  an  intru- 
sion—  unwelcome  guestd  —  desolation  of  tha  lar- 
der—gormandizing exploits  of  hungry  savages— 
good  quarters  abandoned,     .       •        .       .       . 


50» 


CHAPTER  L. 

Rough  wintry  travelling — hills  and  plains  —  snow 
and  ice  —  disappearance  of  game  —  a  vast  dreary 
plain  —  a  second  halt  for  the  winter  —  ancther 
wigwam  —  New  Year's  feast  —  buffalo  humps, 
tongues,  and  marrow-bones  —  return  of  spring  — 
launch  of  canoes  —  bad  navigation  —  pedestrian 
march  —  vast  prairies  —  deserted  camps  —  Pawnee 
squaws  —  an  Otto  Indian  —  news  of  war—  voyage 
down  the  Platte  and  the  Missouri  —  reception  at 
Fort  Osage  —  arrival  at  St.  Louis,       .       •       . 


t» 


If 


XXIV 


C UN  TENTS. 


CHAPTER  LI. 

Agreement  between  Mr.  Astor  and  the  Russian  Fur 
Company  —  war  between  the  United  States  and 
Great  Britain  —  instructions  to  Captain  Sowle  of 
the  Beaver  —  fitting  out  of  the  Lark  —  news  of  the 
arrival  of  Mr.  Stuart,   .       .       .  ^    .        •       • 


riai 


530 


CHAPTER  LII. 

Banks  of  the  Wallah-Wallah  —  departure  of  David 
Stuart  for  the  Oakinagan  —  Mr.  Clarke's  route  up 
Lewis  River  —  Chipunnish,  or  Pierced-nose  In- 
dians—  their  charac  .er,  appearance,  and  habits  — 
thievish  habits  —  laying  up  of  the  boats  —  post  at 
Pointed  Heart  and  Spokan  Rivers  — M'Kcnzie,  his 
route  up  the  Camoenum — bands  of  travelling  In- 
dians —  expedition  of  Reed  to  ihe  caches  —  ad- 
ventures of  wandering  voyageurs  and  trapj)ers,    . 


686 


CHAPTER  LIII. 

Departure  of  Mr.  Hunt  in  the  Beaver  —  precautions 
at  the  factorj'  —  detachment  to  the  Wollamut  — 
gloomy  apprehensions  —  arrival  of  M'Kenzie  — 
affairs  at  the  Shahaptan  —  news  of  war  —  dismay 
of  M'Dougal  —  determination  to  abandon  Astoria 
—  departure  of  M'Kenzie  for  the  interior  —  ad- 
venture at  the  rapids  —  visit  to  the  ruffians  of 
Wish-ram  —  a  perilous  situation  —  meeting  with 
M'Tavish  and  his  party  —  arrival  at  the  Shahap- 
tan —  plundered  caches  —  determination  of  the 
wintering  partners  not  to  leave  the  country  —  ar- 
rival of  Clarke  among  the  Nez  Percys  —  the  affair 
of  the  silver  goblet  —  hanging  of  an  Indian.^* 
arrival  of  the  wmtering  partners  vt  Astoria,       . 


548 


CHAPTER  LIV. 

I!ie  partners  displeased  with  M'Dougal  —  equivocal 
conduct  of  that  gentleman  —  partners  agree   to 


CINTKNTS. 


XXk 


PAoa 
abandon  Astoria  —  sale  of  goods    to  M'Tavish  — 
arrangements  for  the  year  —  manifesto   signed  by 
the  partners  —  departure  of  M'Tavish   for  the  in- 
terior,     660 

CHAPTER  LV. 

Ataxieties  of  Mr.  Astor  — memorial  of  the  Northwest 
Company  —  tidings  of  a  British  naval  expedition 
against  Astoria  —  Mr.  Astor  applies  to  govern- 
ment for  protection  — the  frigate  Adams  ordered  to 
be  fitted  out  —  bn^rht  news  from  Astoria  —  sun- 
shine suddenly  overcLoudedf         ....        566 


CHAPTER  LVI. 

Affairs  of  state  at  Astoria  —  M'Dougal  proposes  for  the 
hand  of  an  Indian  princess  —  matrimonial  em- 
bassy to  Comcomly —  matrimonial  pjtions  among 
the  Chinooks  —  settlements  and  pin-money  —  the 
bringing  home  of  the  bride  —  a  managing  father- 
in-law —  arrival  of  Mr.  Hunt  at  Astoria,      •        .       570 

CHAPTER  LVn. 

Voyage  of  the  Beaver  to  New  Archangel  —  a  Russian 
governor — roystering  rule  —  the  tyranny  of  the 
table  —  hard  drinking  bargains  —  voyage  to  Kamt- 
schatka —  seal  catching  establishment  at  St.  Paul's 
-»- storms  at  sea  —  Mr.  Hunt  left  at  the  Sandwich 
Islands  —  transactions  of  the  Beaver  at  Canton — 
return  of  Mr.  Hunt  to  Astoria,      ....        57(1 

CHAPTER  LVIII. 

Arrangements  among  the  partners  —  Mr.  Hunt  sails  in 
the  Albatross  —  arrives  at  the  Marquesas  —  news 
of  the  frigate  Phoebe  —  Mr.  Hunt  proceeds  to  the 
Sandwich  Islands  —  voyage  of  the  Lark  —  her 
shipwreck  —  transactions  with  the  natives  of  the 
Sandwich  Islands  —  conduct  ot  Tamaahmaah,     .        586 


'<mr- 


ixvi 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  LIX. 


PAOI 


Arrival  of  M'Tavish  at  Astoria  —  conduct  of  his  fol- 
lowers—  negotiations  of  M'Dougal  and  M'Tavish 
—  bargain  for  the  transfer  of  Astoria  —  doubts  en- 
tertained of  the  loyaltj- of  M'Dougal,   .       .       •        695 


CHAPTER  LX. 

Arrival  of  a  strange  sail  —  agitation  at  Astoria  —  war- 
like offer  of  Comcomly  —  Astoria  taken  possession 
of  by  the  British  —  indignation  of  Comcomly  at 
the  conduct  of  his  son-in-law,       ....       603 

CHAPTER  LXI. 


Arrival  of  the  brig  Pedler  at  Astoria  —  breaking  up  of 
the  establishment — departure  of  several  of  th« 
company  —  tragical  story  told  by  the  squaw  of 
Pierre  Dorioc  —  fate  of  Reed  and  his  companions 
—  attempts  of  Mr.  Astor  to  renew  his  ent*»rpri8e  — 
disappointment — concluding  observations  and  re- 
flections,       ....•«. 


APPENDIX. 


608 


Draught  of  a  petition  to  Congress,  sent  by  Mr.  Astor  m 

AC<m,  •  •  .  •  •  •*  .  • 

Letter  from  Mr.  Gallntin  to  Mr.  Astor,        .        ,        , 

Notices  of  the  present  state  of  the  Fur  Trade,  chiefly 
extracted  from  an  article  published  in  Silliman's 
Journal  for  January,  1834, 

Height  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  .... 

Suggestions  with  respect  to  the  Indiaa   tribes,  and  the 

protection  of  our  Trade, 643 


625 
628 


631 
640 


ASTORIA 


CHAPTER  L 


WO  leading  objects  of  commercial  gain 
have  given  birth  to  wide  and  daring 
enterprise  in  the  early  history  of  the 
Americas  ;  the  precious  metals  of  the  South,  and 
the  rich  peltries  of  the  North.  While  the  fiery 
and  magnificent  Spaniard,  .inflamed  with  the 
mania  for  gold,  has  extended  his  discoveries  and 
conquests  over  those  brilliant  countries  scorched 
by  the  ardent  sun  of  the  tropics,  the  adroit  and 
buoyant  Frenchman,  and  the  cool  and  calculating 
Briton,  have  pursued  the  less  splendid,  but  no 
less  lucrative,  trafiic  in  furs  amidst  the  hyperbo- 
rean regions  of  the  Canadas,  until  they  have  ad- 
vanced even  within  the  Arctic  Circle. 

These  two  pursuits  have  thus  in  a  manuei 
been  the  pioneers  and  precursors  of  civilization. 
Without  pausing  on  the  borders,  they  have  pene- 
trated at  once,  in  defiance  of  difficulties  and 
dangers,  to  the  heart  of  savage  countries  :  laying 
open  the  hidden  secrets  of  the  wilderness ;  lead- 
ing the  way  to  remote    regions   of  beauty   and 

fertility  that  might  have  remained  unexplored  for 
1 


,lff?y'UaB-~---r---.-rfS-!i 


!     \r 


2 


AS^  TORI  A. 


\ 


^A 


t 


■'iiiilit 


ages,   and   beckoning   after   them  the  slow  and 
pausing  steps  of  agriculture  and  civilization. 

It  was  the  fur  trade,  in  fact,  which  gave  early 
sustenance  and  vitality  to  the  gi'eat  Canadian 
provinces.  Being  destitute  of  the  precious 
metals,  at  that  time  the  leading  objects  of  Amer- 
ican enterprise,  they  were  long  neglected  by  the 
parent  country.  The  French  adventurers,  how- 
ever, who  had  settled  on  the  banks  of  the  St. 
Lawrence,  soon  found  that  in  the  rich  peltries  of 
the  interior,  they  had  sources  of  wealth  that 
might  almost  rival  the  mine?  of  Mexico  and 
Peru.  The  Indians,  as  yet  unacquainted  with 
the  artificial  value  given  to  some  descriptions  of 
furs,  in  civilized  life,  brought  quantities  of  the 
most  precious  kinds  and  bartered  them  away  for 
European  trinkets  and  cheap  commodities.  Im- 
mense profits  were  thus  made  by  the  early 
traders,  and  the  traffic  was  pursued  with  avidity. 

As  the  valuable  furs  soon  became  scarce  in  the 
neighborhood  of  the  settlements,  the  Indians  of 
the  vicinity  were  stimulated  to  take  a  wider 
range  in  their  hunting  expeditions  ;  they  were 
generally  accompanied  on  these  expeditions  oy 
some  of  the  traders  or  their  dependents,  who 
shared  in  the  toils  and  perils  of  the  chase,  and  at 
the  same  time  made  themselves  acquainted  with 
the  best  hunting  and  trapping  grounds,  and  with 
the  remote  tribes,  whom  they  encouraged  to 
bring  their  peltries  to  the  settlements*  In  this 
way  the  trade  augmented,  and  was  drawn  from 
remote  quarters  to  Montreal.  Every  now  and 
then  a  large  body  of  Otttiwas,  Huron s,  and  othoi 


INDIAN  FAIR. 


tribes  who  hunted  the  countries  bordering  on  the 
^eat  lakes,  would  come  down  in  a  squadron  of 
light  canoes,  laden  with  beaver  skins,  and  other 
spoils  of  their  year's  hunting.  The  canoed 
would  be  unladen,  taken  on  shore,  and  their  con- 
tents disposed  in  order.  A  camp  of  birch  bark 
would  be  pitched  outside  of  the  town,  and  a  kind 
of  primitive  fair  opened  with  that  grave  ceremo- 
nial so  dear  to  the  Indians.  An  audience  would 
be  demanded  of  the  governor-general,  who  would 
hold  the  conference  with  becoming  state,  seated 
in  an  elbow-chair,  with  the  Indians  ranged  in 
semicircles  before  him,  seated  on  the  ground, 
and  silently  smoking  their  pipes.  Speeches  would 
be  made,  presents  exchanged,  and  the  audience' 
would  break  up  in  universal  good  humor. 

Now  would  ensue  a  brisk  traffic  with  the  mer- 
chants, and  all  Montreal  would  be  alive  with 
naked  Indians  running  from  shop  to  shop,  bar- 
gaining for  arms,  kettles,  knives,  axes,  blankets, 
bright-colored  cloths,  and  other  articles  of  use  or 
fency  ;  upon  all  which,  sayc  an  old  French  writer, 
the  merchants  were  sure  to  clear  at  least  two 
hundred  per  cent.  There  was  no  money  used  in 
tliis  traffic,  and,  after  a  time,  all  payment  in 
spirituous  liquors  was  prohibited,  in  consequence 
of  the  frantic  and  frightful  excesses  and  bloody 
brawls  which  they  were  apt  to  occasion. 

Their  wants  and  caprices  being  supplied,  they 
wrould  take  leave  of  the  governor,  strike  their 
tents,  launch  their  canoes,  and  ply  their  way  up 
'he  Ottawa  to  the  lakes. 

A  new  and  anomalous  class  of  men  gradually 


"rtffT 


r   I 


4  J.iTORTA. 

grew  out  of  this  trade.  These  were  called  ctmr- 
eurs  des  bois^  rangers  of  the  woods ;  originally 
men  who  had  accompanied  the  Indians  in  their 
hunting  expeditions,  and  made  themselves  ac- 
quainted with  remote  tracts  and  tribes ;  and  who 
now  became,  as  it  were,  peddlers  of  the  wilderness. 
These  men  would  set  out  from  Montreal  with 
canoes  well  stocked  with  goods,  with  arms  and 
ammunition,  and  would  make  their  way  up  the 
mazy  and  wandering  rivers  that  interlace  the 
vast  forests  of  the  Canadas,  coasting  the  most 
remote  lakes,  and  creating  new  wants  and  habi- 
tudes among  the  natives.  Sometimes  they  so- 
journed for  months  among  them,  assimilating  to 
their  tastes  and  habits  with  the  happy  facility  of 
Frenchmen  adopting  in  some  degree  the  Indian 
dress,  and  not  unfrequently  taking  to  themselves 
Indian  wives. 

Twelve,  fifteen,  eighteen  ms»uths  would  often 
elapse  without  any  tidings  of  them,  when  they 
would  come  sweeping  their  \7ay  dov^Ti  the  O'itawa 
in  full  glee,  their  canoes  laden  down  with  packs 
of  beaver  skins.  Now  came  their  turn  for  rev- 
elry and  extravagance..  "  You  would  be  amazed," 
says  an  old  writer  already  quoted,  "  if  you  saw 
how  lewd  these  peddlers  are  when  they  return  ; 
how  they  feast  and  game,  and  how  prodigal  they 
are,  not  only  in  their  clothes,  but  upon  their 
sweethearts.  Such  of  them  as  are  married  have 
the  wisdom  to  retire  to  their  own  houses  ;  but 
the  bachelors  act  just  as  an  East  Indiaman  and 
pirates  are  wont  to  do ;  for  they  lavish,  eat,  drink, 
*nd  play  all  away  aa  long  as  the  goods  hold  out ; 


COUREURa  D£8  3018. 


and  when  these  are  gone,  they  even  sell  their 
embroidery,  their  lace,  and  their  clothes.  This 
done,  they  are  forced  upon  a  new  voyage  for 
subsistence."  ^ 

Many  of  these  coureurs  des  lots  became  so 
accustomed  to  the  Indian  mode  of  living,  and  the 
perfect  freedom  of  the  wilderness,  that  they  lost 
all  relish  for  civilization,  and  identified  themselves 
with  the  savages  among  whom  they  dwelt,  or 
could  only  be  distinguished  from  them  by  superior 
licentiousness.  Their  conduct  and  example  grad- 
ually corrupted  the  natives,  and  impeded  the 
works  of  the  Catholic  missionaries,  who  were  at 
this  time  prosecuting  their  pious  labors  in  the 
wilds  of  Canada. 

To  check  these  abuses,  and  to  protect  the  fur 
trade  from  various  irregularities  practised  by 
these  loose  adventurers,  an  order  was  issued  by 
the  French  government  prohibiting  all  persons, 
on  pain  of  death,  from  trading  into  the  interior 
of  the  country  without  a  license. 

These  licenses  were  granted  in  writing  by  the 
gover_iOr-general,  and  at  first  were  given  only  to 
persons  of  respectability ;  to  gentlemen  of  broken 
fortunes;  to  old  officers  of  the  army  who  had 
families  to  provide  for ;  or  to  their  widows. 
Each  license  permitted  the  fitting  out  of  two 
large  canoes  with  merchandise  for  the  lakes,  and 
no  more  than  twenty-five  licenses  were  to  be 
issued  in  one  year.  By  degrees,  however,  private 
licenses  were  also  granted,  and  the  number  rap- 
.dly  increased.     Those  who  did  not  choose  to  fit 

I  La  Hontati,  v.  i.  let.  4. 


"fff 


6 


AS  TOR  J  A, 


out  the  expeditions  themselves,  were  permitted  to 
sell  them  to  the  merchants ;  these  employed  the 
coureurs  des  bois,  or  rangers  gf  the  woods,  to  un- 
dertake the  long  voyages  on  shares,  and  thus  the 
abuses  of  the  old  system  were  revived  and  con- 
tinued.^ 

The  pious  missionaries,  employed  by  the 
Roman  Catholic  Church  to  convert  the  Indians, 
did  everything  in  their  power  to  counteract 
the  profligacy  caused  and  propagated  by  these 
men  in  the  heart  of  the  wilderness.  The 
Catholic  chapel  might  often  be  seen  planted 
beside  the  trading  house,  and  its  spire  sur- 
mounted by  a  cross,  towering  from  the  nudst  of 
au  Indian  village,  on  the  banks  of  a  river  or  a 
lake.     The  missions  had  often  a  beneficial  effect 


1  The  following  are  the  terms  on  which  these  expeditions 
were  commonly  undertaken.  The  merchant  holding  the 
license  would  fit  out  the  two  canoes  with  a  thousand  crowns 
worth  of  goods,  and  put  them  under  the  conduct  of  six  cour- 
eurs  des  bois,  to  whom  the  goods  were  charged  at  the  rate  of 
fifteen  per  cent,  above  the  ready  money  price  in  the  colony. 
The  coureurs  des  bois,  in  their  turn,  dealt  so  sharply  with 
the  savages,  that  they  generally  returned,  at  the  end  of  {t 
year  or  so,  with  four  canoes  well  laden,  so  as  to  insure  a  clear 
profit  of  seven  hundred  per  cent.,  insomuch  that  the  thousand 
crowns  invested,  produced  eight  thousand.  Of  this  extrava- 
gant profit  the  merchant  had  the  lion's  share.  In  the  first 
place  he  would  set  aside  six  hundred  crowns  for  the  cost  of 
his  license,  then  a  thousand  crowns  for  the  cost  of  the  original 
merchandise.  This  would  leave  six  thousand  four  hundred 
crowns,  from  which  he  would  take  fort'"-  per  cent.,  for  bot- 
«omry,  amounting  to  two  thousand  five  hundred  and  sixty 
crowns.  The  residue  would  be  equally  divided  among  the 
■ix  wood  rangers,  who  would  thus  receive  little  more  than 
iix  hundred  crowns  for  all  their  toils  and  perils. 


LICENSED   TRADERS. 


int.,  for  bot- 


on  the  simple  sons  of  the  forest,  but  had  little 
power  over  the  renegades  from  civilization. 

At  length  i*  was  found  necessary  to  establish 
fortified  posts  at  t^e  confluence  of  the  rivers  and 
the  lakes  for  the  protection  of  the  trade,  and  the 
restraint  of  these  profligates  of  the  wilderness. 
The  most  important  of  these  was  at  Michilimack- 
inac,  situated  at  the  strait  of  the  same  name, 
which  connects  Lakes  Huron  and  Michigan.  It 
became  the  great  interior  mart  and  place  of 
deposit,  and  some  of  the  regular  merchants  who 
prosecuted  the  trade  in  person,  under  their 
licenses,  formed  establishments  here.  This,  too, 
was  a  rendezvous  for  the  rangers  of  the  woods, 
as  well  those  who  came  up  with  goods  from 
Montreal  as  those  who  returned  with  peltries 
from  the  interior.  Here  new  expeditions  were 
fitted  out  and  took  their  departure  for  Lake 
Michigan  and  the  Mississippi ;  Lake  Superior 
and  the  Northwest;  and  here  the  peltries  brought 
m  return  were  embarked  for  Montreal. 

The  French  merchant  at  his  trading  post,  in 
these  primitive  days  of  Canada,  was  a  kind  of 
commercial  patriarch.  With  the  lax  habits  and 
easy  familiarity  of  his  race,  he  had  a  little  world 
of  self-indulgence  and  misrule  around  him.  He 
had  his  clerks,  canoe  men,  and  retainers  of  all 
kinds,  who  lived  with  him  on  terms  of  perfect 
sociability,  always  calling  him  by  his  Christian 
name ;  he  had  his  harem  of  Indian  beauties,  and 
his  troop  of  half-breed  children ;  nor  was  there 
ever  wanting  a  loutiiig  train  of  Indians,  hanging 
about  the  establishment,  eating  and  dj'inking  at 


"W 


B 


AS  TOR L 


I  i 


his  expense  in  the  iutervals  of  their  huniing  ex* 
peditions. 

The  Canadian  traders,  for  a  long  time,  had 
troublesome  competitors  in  the  British  merchants 
of  New  York,  who  inveigled  the  Indian  hunters 
and  the  coureurs  des  bois  to  their  posts,  and 
traded  with  them  on  more  favorable  terms.  A 
still  more  formidable  opposition  was  organized  in 
the  Hudson  Bay  Company,  chartered  by  Charles 
II.,  in  1670,  with  the  exclusive  privilege  of 
establishing  trading  houses  on  the  shores  of  that 
bay  and  its  tributary  rivers ;  a  privilege  which 
they  have  maintained  to  the  present  day. 
Between  this  British  company  and  the  French 
merchants  of  Canada,  feuds  and  contests  arose 
about  alleged  infringements  of  territorial  limits, 
and  acts  of  violence  and  bloodshed  occurred 
between  their  agents. 

In  1762,  the  French  lost  possession  of  Canada, 
and  the  trade  fell  principally  into  the  hands  of 
British  subjects.  For  a  time,  however,  it  shrunk 
within  narrow  limits.  The  old  coureurs  des  hois 
were  broken  up  and  dispersed,  or,  where  they 
could  be  met  with,  were  slow  to  accustom  them- 
selves to  the  habits  and  manners  of  their  British 
employers.  They  missed  the  freedom,  indul- 
gence, and  familiarity  of  the  old  French  trading 
houses,  and  did  not  relish  the  sober  exactness, 
reserve,  and  method  of  the  new-comers.  The 
British  traders,  too,  wore  ignorant  of  the  country, 
and  distrustful  of  the  natives.  They  had  reason 
to  be  so.  The  treacherous  and  bloody  affairs  of 
Detroit   and   Michilimackinac  showed  them    th« 


I.-   iiilii 


BRITISH  FUR   TRADERS. 


in  ting  ex- 
time,  had 
merchants 
n  hunters 
posts,  and 
erms.     A 
t^anized  in 
»y  Charles 
ivilege  of 
es  of  that 
Bge  which 
sent    day. 
le  French 
»8t8  arose 
rial  limits, 
occurred 

of  Canada, 
hands  of 
it  shrunk 
\rs  des  hois 
?here  they 
tom  them- 
eir  British 
)m,  indul- 
ch  trading 
exactness, 
lers.  The 
le  country, 
had  reason 
■f  affairs  of 
them   th« 


lurking  hostility  cherished  by  the  savages,  who 
had  too  long  been  taught  by  the  French  to 
regard  them  as  enemies. 

It  was  not  until  the  yeaj*  1766,  that  the  crade 
regained  its  old  channels;  but  it  was  then 
pursued  with  much  avidity  and  emulation  by 
individual  merchants,  and  soon  transcended  its 
former  bounds.  Expeditions  were  fitted  out  by 
various  persons  from  Montreal  and  Michilimack- 
inac,  and  rivalships  and  jealousies  of  course 
ensued.  The  trade  was  injured  by  their  artificis 
to  outbid  and  undermine  each  other ;  the  India]  is 
were  debauched  by  the  sale  of  spirituous  liquoi  s, 
which  had  been  prohibited  under  the  Frendi 
rule.  Scenes  of  drunkenness,  brutality,  and 
brawl  were  the  consequence,  in  the  Indian 
villages  and  around  the  trading  houses;  while 
bloody  feuds  took  place  between  rival  ti'ading 
parties  when  they  happened  to  encounter  each 
other  in  the  lawless  depths  of  the  wilderness. 

To  put  an  end  to  these  sordid  and  ruinous 
contentions,  several  of  the  principal  merchants  of 
Montreal  entered  into  a  partnership  in  the  winter 
of  1783,  which  was  augmented  by  amalgamation 
with  a  rival  company  in  1787.  Thus  was 
created  the  famous  "Northwest  Company," 
which  for  a  time  held  a  lordly  sway  over  the 
wintry  lakes  and  boundless  forests  of  the 
Canadas,  almost  equal  to  that  of  the  East  India 
Company  over  the  voluptuous  climes  and  magnifi- 
cent realms  of  the  Orient. 

The  company  consisted  of  twenty-three  share- 
holders, or  partners,  but  held  in  its  employ  about 


flf 


10 


ASTORIA, 


-1  :i!i 


iliil 


III   ■ 


f !; 


two  thousand  persons  as  derks,  guides,  interpre- 
ters, and  "  voyageurs,"  or  boatmen.  These  were 
distributed  at  various  trading  posts,  established 
far  and  wide  on  the  interior  lakes  and  rivers,  at 
immense  distances  from  each  other,  and  in  the 
heart  of  trackless  countries  and  savage  tribes.^ 

Several  of  the  partners  resided  in  Montreal 
and  Quebec,  to  manage  the  main  concerns  of  the 
company.  These  were  called  agents,  and  were 
personages  of  great  weight  and  importance ;  tlie 
other  partners  took  their  stations  at  the  interior 
posts,  whjere  they  remained  tliroughout  the 
vinter,  to  superintend  the  intercourse  with  the 
'^d.rious  tribes  of  Indians.  They  were  thence 
called  wintering  partners. 

The  goods  destined  for  this  wide  and  wander- 
ing traffic  were  put  up  at  the  warehouses  of  the 
company  in  Montreal,  and  conveyed  in  batteaux, 
or  boats  and  canoes,  up  the  river  Attawa,  or 
Ottowa,  which  falls  into  the  St.  Lawrence  near 
Montreal,  and  by  other  rivers  and  portages,  to 
Lake  Nipising,  Lake  Huron,  Lake  Superior,  and 
thence,  by  several  chains  of  great  and  small  lakes, 
to  Lake  Winnipeg,  Lake  Athabasca,  and  the 
Great  Slave  Lake.  This  singular  and  beautiftil 
system  of  internal  seas,  which  renders  an  im- 
mense region  of  wilderness  so  accessible  to  the 
frail  bark  of  the  Indian  or  the  trader,  was 
studded  by  the  remote  posts  of  the  company, 
vdiere  they  c^x  "ied  on  their  traffic  with  the  sur- 
rounding   tribes. 

The  company,  as  we  have  shown,  was  at  first 
a   spontaneous    association    of    merchants;    but, 


BRITISH  NORTHWEST  COMPANY. 


U 


after  it  had  been  regularly  organized,  admission 
into  it  became  extremely  diilicuU.  A  candidate 
had  to  enter,  as  it  were,  "before  the  mast,'*  to 
undergo  a  long  probation,  and  to  rise  slowly  by 
his  merits  and  services.  He  began,  at  an  early 
age,  as  a  clerk,  and  served  an  apprenticeship  of 
seven  years,  for  which  he  received  one  hundred 
pounds  sterling,  was  maintained  at  the  expense 
of  the  company,  and  furnished  v,  ith  suitable 
clothing  and  equipments.  His  probation  was 
generally  passed  at  the  interior  trading  posts; 
removed  for  years  from  civilized  society,  leading 
a  life  almost  as  wild  and  precarious  as  the  sav- 
ages around  him ;  exposed  to  the  severities  of  a 
northern  winter,  often  suffering  from  a  scarcity 
of  food,  and  sometimes  destitute  for  a  long  time 
of  both  bread  and  salt.  When  his  apprenticeship 
had  expired,  he  received  a  salary  according  to 
his  desei'ts,  varying  from  eighty  to  one  hundred 
and  sixty  pounds  sterling,  and  was  now  eligible 
to  the  great  object  of  his  ambition,  a  partnership 
in  the  company ;  though  years  might  yet  elapse 
before  he  attained  to  that  enviable  station. 

Most  of  the  clerks  were  young  men  of  good 
families,  from  the  Highlands  of  Scotland,  charac- 
terized by  the  perseverance,  thrift,  and  fidelity  of 
their  country,  and  fitted  by  their  native  hardi- 
hood to  encounter  the  rigorous  climate  of  the 
North,  and  to  endure  the  trials  and  privations  of 
their  lot ;  though  it  must  not  be  concealed  that 
the  constitutions  of  many  of  them  became  im- 
paired by  the  hardships  of  the  wilderness,  and 
their  stomachs  injured   by  occasional  famishing, 


"?!T] 


w 


/' 


12 


ASTORIA, 


^1 


:|!  i 


i 


and  especially  by  the  want  of  bread  and  salt 
Now  and  then,,  at  an  interval  of  years,  they  were 
permitted  to  come  down  on  a  risit  to  the  estab- 
lishment at  Montreal;  to  recruit  their  health,  and 
to  have  a  taste  of  civilized  life ;  and  these  were 
brilliant  spots  in  their  existence. 

As  to  the  prmcipal  partners,  or  agents,  who 
resided  in  Montreal  and  Quebec,  they  formed  a 
kind  of  commercial  aristocracy,  living  in  lordly 
and  hospitable  style.  Their  early  associations 
when  clerks  at  the  remote  trading  posts,  and  the 
pleasures,  dangers,  adventures,  and  mishaps  which 
they  had  shared  together  in  their  wild  wood  life, 
had  linked  them  heartily  to  each  other,  so  that 
they  formed  a  convivial  fraternity.  Few  trav- 
ellers that  have  visited  Canada  some  thirty  years 
since,  in  the  days  of  the  M'Tavishes,  the  M'Gil- 
livrays,  the  M'Kenzies,  the  Frobishers,  and  the 
other  magnates  of  the  Northwest,  when  the  com- 
pany was  in  all  its  glory,  but  must  remember  the 
round  of  feasting  and  revelry  kept  up  among 
these  hyperborean  nabobs. 

Sometimes  one  or  two  partners,  recently  from 
the  interior  posts,  would  make  their  appearance 
in  New  York,  in  the  course  of  a  tour  of  pleasure 
and  curiosity.  On  these  occasions  there  was 
always  a  degree  of  magnificence  of  the  purse 
about  them,  and  a  peculiar  propensity  to  expend- 
iture at  the  goldsmith's  and  jeweler's  for  rings, 
chains,  brooches,  necklaces,  jeweled  watches,  and 
other  rich  trinkets,  partly  for  their  own  wear, 
partly  for  presents  to  their  female  acquaintances  ; 
a  gorgeous  prodigality,  such  as  was  often  to  be 


FEUDAL  8.  ATE  7A    THE  FOREST. 


13 


noticed  in  former  times  in  Southern  planters  and 
West  India  Creoles,  when  flush  with  the  profits 
of  their  plantations. 

To  behold  the  Northwest  Company  in  all  its 
state  and  grandeur,  however,  it  was  necessary  to 
witness  an  annual  gathering  at  the  great  interior 
place  of  conference  established  at  Fort  William, 
near  what  is  called  the  Grand  Portage,  on  Lake 
Superior.  Here  two  or  three  of  the  leading 
partners  from  Montreal  proceeded  once  a  year  to 
meet  the  partners  from  the  various  trading  posts 
of  the  wilderness,  to  discuss  the  afiTairs  of  the 
company  during  the  preceding  year,  and  to  ar- 
range plans  for  the  future. 

On  these  occasions  might  be  seen  the  change 
since  the  unceremonious  times  of  the  old  French 
traders ;  now  the  aristocratical  character  of  the 
Briton  shone  forth  magnificently,  or  rather  the 
feudal  spirit  of  the  Highlander.  Every  partner 
who  had  charge  of  an  interior  post,  and  a  score 
of  retainers  at  his  command,  felt  like  the  chief- 
tain of  a  Highland  clan,  and  was  almost  as  im- 
portant in  the  eyes  of  his  dependents  as  of  him- 
self. To  him  a  visit  to  the  grand  conference  at 
Fort  William  was  a  most  important  event,  and 
he  repaired  there  as  to  a  meeting  of  parliament. 

The  partners  from  Montreal,  however,  were 
the  lords  of  the  ascendant;  coming  from  the 
midst  of  luxurious  and  ostentatious  life,  they  quite 
eclipsed  their  compeers  from  the  woods,  whose 
forms  and  faces  had  been  battered  and  hardened 
by  hard  living  and  hard  service,  and  whose  gar- 
ments  and   equipments    were  all  the  worse  for 


w 


■     ■■, 


^  11 


lili 


14 


ASTORIA. 


wear.  Indeed,  the  partners  from  below  consid* 
orec  the  whole  dignity  of  the  company  as  repre- 
sented m  their  persons,  and  conducted  themselves 
in  suitable  style.  They  ascended  the  rivers  in 
great  state,  like  sovereigns  making  a  progress : 
or  rather  like  Highland  chieftains  navigating 
their  subject  lakes.  They  were  wrapped  in  rich 
furs,  their  huge  canoes  freighted  with  every  con- 
venience and  luxury,  and  manned  by  Canadian 
voyageurs,  as  obedient  as  Highland  clansmen. 
They  carried  up  with  them  cooks  and  bakers, 
together  with  delicacies  of  every  kind,  and  abun- 
dance of  choice  wines  for  the  banquets  which  at- 
tended this  great  convocation.  Happy  were  they, 
too,  if  they  could  meet  with  some  distinguished 
stranger;  above  all,  some  titled  member  of  the 
British  nobility,  to  accompany  them  on  this  str.tely 
occasion,  and  grace  their  high  solemnities. 

Fort  William,  the  scene  of  this  important 
annual  meeting,  was  a  considerable  village  on  the 
banks  of  Lake  Superior.  Here,  in  an  immense 
wooderi  building,  was  the  great  council  hall,  as 
also  the  banqueting  chamber,  decorated  with  In- 
dian arms  and  accoutrements,  and  the  trophies  of 
the  fur  trade.  The  house  swarmed  at  this  time 
with  traders  and  voyageurs,  some  from  Montreal, 
hound  to  the  interior  posts ;  some  from  the  inte- 
lior  posts,  bound  to  Montreal.  The  councils 
were  held  in  great  state,  for  every  member  felt 
ds  if  sitting  in  parliament,  and  every  retainer 
aitd  dependent  looked  up  to  the  assemblage  with 
jiwe,  as  to  the  House  of  Iwords.  There  was  a 
niflt  deal  of  solemn  deHberntion,  and  hard  Scot* 


I'HE  GLORIES   OF  FORT  WILLIAM. 


15 


tish  reasoning,  with  an  occasional  swell  of  pomp- 
ous declamation. 

Thes^  grave  and  weighty  councils  were  alter- 
nated by  huge  feasts  and  revels,  like  some  of  the 
oM  feasts  described  in  Highland  castles.  The 
tables  in  the  great  banqueting  room  groaned 
under  the  weight  of  game  of  all  kinds  ;  of  veni- 
son from  the  woods,  and  fish  from  the  lakes,  with 
hunters'  delicacies,  such  as  buffaloes'  tongues,  and 
beavers'  tails^  and  various  luxuries  from  Mou- 
trealj  all  served  up  by  experienced  cooks  brought 
for  the  purpose.  There  was  no  stint  of  gener- 
ous wine,  for  it  was  a  hard-drinking  period,  a 
time  of  loyal  toasts,  and  bacchanalian  songs,  and 
brimming  bumpers^ 

While  the  chiefs  thus  revelled  in  hall,  "^^d 
made  the  rafters  resound  with  bursts  of  loyaity 
and  old  Scottish  songs,  chanted  in  voices  cracked 
and  sharpened  by  the  northern  blast,  their  mer- 
riment was  echoed  and  prolonged  by  a  mongrel 
legion  of  retainers,  Canadian  voyageurs,  half- 
breeds,  Indian  hunters,  and  vagabond  hangers-on, 
who  feasted  sumptuously  without  on  the  crumbs 
that  fell  from  their  table,  and  made  the  welkin  ring 
with  old  French  ditties,  mingled  with  Indian 
yelps  and  yellings. 

Such  was  the  Northwest  Company  in  its  pow- 
erful and  prosperous  days,  when  it  held  a  kind 
of  feudal  sway  over  a  v««t  domain  of  lake  an«l 
forest.  We  are  dwelling  too  long,  perhaps,  upon 
these  individual  pictures,  endeared  to  us  by  the 
associations  of  early  life,  when,  as  yet  a  stripling 
youth,  we   have  sat  at  the  hospitable   boards  of 


m 


';li 


i  '■  i 


16 


ASTORIA. 


tlie  "  mighty  Northwesters,"  the  lords  of  the  as- 
cendant at  Montreal,  and  gazed  with  wondering 
and  inexperiencei!  eye  at  the  baronial  w^sailing, 
and  listened  with  astonished  ear  to  their  tales  of 
hardships  and  adventures.  It  is  one  object  of 
our  task,  however,  to  present  scenes  of  the  rough 
life  of  the  wilderness,  and  we  are  tempted  to  fix 
these  few  memorials  of  a  transient  state  of  things 
fast  passing  into  oblivion  ;  —  for  the  feudal  state 
of  Fort  William  is  at  an  end ;  its  council  cham- 
ber is  silent  and  deserted;  its  banquet  hall  no 
longer  echoes  to  the  burst  of  loyalty,  or  the 
"  auld  world  "  ditty ;  the  lords  of  the  lakes  and 
forests  have  passed  away;  and  the  hospitable 
magnates  of  Montreal  —  where  are  they  ? 


'^^ 


iiiii .  li^ 


^    CHAPTER  II. 


HE  success  of  the  Northwest  Company 
stimulated  further  enterprise  in  this 
opening  and  apparently  boundless  field 
of  profit.  The  traffic  of  that  company  lay  prin- 
cipally in  the  ^igh  northern  latitudes,  while  there 
were  immense  regions  to  the  south  and  west, 
known  to  abound  with  valuable  peltries ;  but 
which,  as  yet,  had  been  but  little  explored  by 
the  fur  trader.  A  new  association  of  British 
merchants  was  therefore  formed,  to  prosecute  the 
trade  in  this  direction.  The  chief  factory  was 
established  at  the  old  emporium  of  Michilimack* 
inac,  from  which  place  the  association  took  its 
name,  and  was  commonly  called  the  Mackinaw 
Company. 

While  the  Northwesters  continued  to  push 
their  enterprises  into  the  hyperborean  regions 
from  their  stronghold  at  Fort  William,  and  to 
hold  almost  sovereign  sway  over  the  tribes  of  the 
upper  lakes  and  rivers,  the  Mackinaw  Company 
sent  forth  their  light  perogues,  and  barks,  by 
Green  Bay,  Fox  River,  and  the  Wisconsin,  to 
that  great  artery  of  the  West,  the  Mississippi ; 
and  down  that  stream  to  all  its  tributary  rivers. 
In  this  way  they  hoped  soon  to  monopolize  the 

trade  with  all  the  tribes  on  the  southern  and  west* 
S 


i 


s! 


18 


ASTORIA. 


em  waters,  and  of   those  vast  tracts  comprised 
ill  ancient  Louisiana. 

The  government  of  the  United  States  began  to 
view  witii  a  wary  eye  the  growing  infiuence  thijs 
acquired  by  combinations  of  foreigners,  over  the 
aboriginal  tribes  inhabiting  its  territories,  and  en- 
deavored to  counteract  it.  For  this  purpose,  as 
early  as  1796,  the  government  sent  out  agents  to 
establish  rival  trading  houses  on  the  frontier,  so 
as  to  supply  the  wants  of  the  Indians,  to  link 
their  interests  and  feelings  with  those  of  the  peo- 
ple of  the  United  States,  and  to  divert  this  im- 
portant  branch  of  trade  into  national    channels. 

Tiie  expedient,  however,  was  unsuccessful,  as 
most  commercial  expedients  are  prone  to  be, 
where  the  dull  patronage  of  government  is  count- 
ed upon  to  outvie  the  keen  activity  of  private 
enterprise.  What  government  failed  to  effect, 
however,  with  all  its  patronage  and  all  its  agents, 
was  at  length  brought  about  by  the  enterprise 
and  perseverance  of  a  single  merchant,  one  of  its 
adopted  citizens ;  and  this  brings  us  to  speak  of  the 
individual  whose  enterprise  is  the  especial  subject 
of  the  following  pages ;  a  man  whose  name  and 
character  are  worthy  of  being  enrolled  in  the  his- 
tory of  commerce,  as  illustrating  its  noblest  aims 
and  soundest  maxims.  A  few  brief  anecdotes  of 
his  early  life,  and  of  the  circumstances  which  first 
determined  him  to  the  branch  of  commerce  of 
which  we  are  treating,  cannot  be  but  interesting. 

John  Jacob  Astor,  the  individual  in  question, 
was  born  iii  the  honest  little  German  village  of 
Waldorf,  near  Heidelberg,  on  the  banks  of  the 


JOn^  JACOB  AST  OR. 


19 


Rlu'ne.  He  was  brought  up  in  the  simplicity  of 
rural  life,  but,  while  yet  a  mere  strinling,  left  his 
home,  and  launched  himself  amid  the  busy  scenes 
of  London,  having  had,  from  his  very  boyhood,  a 
singular  presentiment  that  he  would  ultimately 
arriyre  at  great  fortune. 

At  the  close  of  the  American  Revolution  he 
was  still  in  London,  an*^  scarce  on  the  threshold 
of  active  life.  An  (  ier  brother  had  been  for 
some  few  years  resident  in  the  United  States,  and 
Mr.  Astor  determined  to  follow  him,  and  to  seek 
his  fortunes  in  the  rising  country.  Investing  a 
small  sum  which  he  had  amassed  since  leaving 
his  native  village,  in  merchandise  suited  to  the 
American  market,  he  eihbarked,  in  the  month 
of  November,  1783,  in  a  ship  bound  to  Baltimore, 
and  arrived  in  Hampton  Roads  in  the  month  of 
January.  The  winter  was  extremely  severe, 
and  the  ship,  with  many  others,  was  detained  by 
the  ice  in  and  about  Chesapeake  Bay  for  nearly 
three  months. 

During  this  period,  the  passengers  of  the  va- 
rious ships  used  occasionally  to  go  on  shore,  and 
mingle  sociably  together.  In  this  way  Mr.  Astor 
became  acquainted  with  a  countryman  of  his,  a 
furrier  by  trade.  Having  had  a  previous  im- 
pression that  this  might  be  a  lucrative  trade  in 
tl^e  New  World,  he  made  many  inquiries  of  his 
new  acquaintance  on  the  -subject,  who  cheerfully 
gave  him  all  the  information  in  his  power  as  to 
the  quality  and  value  of  different  furs,  and  the 
mode  of  carrying  on  the  traffic.  He  subsequently 
accompanied  him  to  New  York,  and,  by  his  ad- 


i 


i 


ifi 


ASTORIA, 


vice,  Mr.  Astor  was  induced  to  invest  the  pro- 
ceeds of  his  merchandise  in  furs.  With  these 
he  sailed  from  New  York  to  London  in  1784, 
disposed  of  them  advantageously,  made  himself 
further  acquainted  with  the  course  of  the  trade, 
and  returned  the  same  year  to  New  York,  jvith 
a  view  to  settle  in  the  United  States. 

He  now  devoted  himself  to  the  branch  of 
commerce  with  which  he  had  thus  casually  been 
made  acquainted.  He  began  his  career,  of 
course,  on  the  narrowest  scale ;  but  he  brought 
to  the  task  a  persevering  industry,  rigid  economy, 
and  strict  integrity.  To  these  were  added  an 
aspiring  spirit  that  always  looked  upwards;  a 
genius  bold,  fertile,  and  expansive;  a  sagacity 
quick  to  grasp  and  convert  every  circumstance 
to  its  advantage,  and  a  singular  and  never  wa- 
vering confidence  of  signal  success.^ 

As  yet,  trade  in  peltries  was  not  organized  in 
the  United  States,  and  could  not  be  said  to  form 
a  regular  line  of  business.  Furs  and  skins  were 
casually  collected  by  the  country  traders  in  their 
dealings  with  the  Indians  or  the  white  hunters, 
but  the  main  supply  was  derived  from  Canada. 
As  Mr.  Aster's    means  increased,  he  made    an- 

1  An  instance  of  this  buoyant  confidence,  which  no  doubt 
aided  to  produce  the  success  it  anticipated,  we  have  ftom  the 
lips  of  Mr.  A.  himself.  While  yet  almost  a  stranger  in  the 
city,  and  in  very  narrow  cirsumstances,  he  passed  by  where 
a  row  of  houses  had  just  been  erected  in  Broadway,  and 
which,  from  the  superior  style  of  their  architecture,  were  the 
talk  and  boast  of  the  city.  "  I  'II  build,  one  day  or  other,  a 
greater  house  than  any  of  these,  in  this  very  street,"  said  he 
CO  himself.    He  has  accomplished  his  prediction. 


DEALINGS  JN   CANADA. 


21 


liual  visits  to  Montreal,  where  he  purchased  furs 
from  the  houses  at  that  place  engaged  in  the 
trade.  These  he  shipped  from  Canada  to  Lon- 
don, no  direct  trade  heinj?  allowed  from  that  col* 
ony  to  any  but  the  mother  country. 

In  1794  or  '95,  a  treaty  with  Great  Britain 
removed  the  restrictions  imposed  upon  the  trade 
with  the  colonies,  and  opened  a  direct  commer- 
cial intercourse  between  Canada  and  the  United 
States.  Mr.  Astor  was  in  London  at  the  time, 
and  immediately  made  a  contract  with  the  agents 
of  the  Northwest  Company  for  furs.  He  was 
now  enabled  to  import  them  from  Montreal  into 
the  United  States  for  the  home  supply,  and  to  be 
shipped  thence  to  diiferent  parts  of  Europe,  as 
well  as  to  China,  which  has  ever  been  the  best 
market  for  the  richest  and  finest  kinds  of  pel- 
try. ^ 

The  treaty  in  question  provided,  likewise,  that 
the  military  posts  occupied  by  the  British  within 
the  territorial  limits  of  the  United  States, 
should  be  surrendered.  Accordingly,  Oswego, 
Niagara,  Detroit,  Michilimackinac,  and  other 
posts  on  the  American  side  of  the  lakes,  were 
given  up.  An  opening  was  thus  made  for  the 
American  merchant  to  trade  on  the  confines  of 
Canada,  and  within  the  territories  of  the  United 
States.  After  an  interval  of  some  years,  about 
1807,  Mr.  Astor  embarked  in  this  trade  on  his 
own  account.  His  capital  and  resources  had  by 
this  time  greatly  augmented,  and  he  bad  risen 
from  small  beginnings  to  take  his  place  among 
the  first  merchants  and  financiers  of  the  country. 


22 


ASTORIA. 


His  genius  had  ever  been  in  advance  of  his  cir- 
cuni8tances,  prompting  him  to  new  and  wide 
fields  of  enterprise  beyond  the  scope  of  or- 
dinary, merchants.  With  all  his  enterprise  and 
resources,  however,  he  soon  found  the  power  and 
influence  of  the  Michilimackinac  (or  Mackinaw) 
Company  too  great  for  him,  having  engrossed 
most  of  the  trade  within  the  American  bor- 
ders. 

A  plan  had  to  be  devised  to  enable  him  to 
enter  into  successful  competition.  He  was  aware 
of  the  wish  of  the  American  government,  already 
stated,  that  the  fur  tr.ade  within  its  boundaries 
should  be  in  the  hands  of  American  citizens,  and 
of  the  ineffectual  measures  it  had  taken  to  ac- 
complish that  object.  He  now  offered,  if  aided 
and  protected  by  government,  to  turn  the  whole 
of  that  trade  into  American  channels.  He  was 
invited  to  unfold  his  plans  to  government,  and 
they  were  warmly  approved,  though  the  execu- 
tive could  give  no  direct  aid. 

Thus  countenanced,  however,  he  obtained,  in 
1809,  a  charter  from  the  legislature  of  the  State 
of  New  York,  incorporating  a  company  under  the 
name  of  "The  American  Fur  Company,"  with 
«  capital  of  one  million  of  dollars,  with  the  privi- 
lege of  increasing  it  to  two  millions.  The  capi- 
tal was  furnished  by  himself — he,  in  fact,  con- 
stituted the  company  ;  for,  though  he  had  a  board 
of  directors,  they  were  merely  nominal;  the 
whole  business  was  conducted  on  his  plans  and 
with  his  resources,  but  he  preferred  to  do  so 
under  the  imposing  and  formidable  aspect  of  a 


9\ 


SOUTHWEST  COMPANY, 


X8 


his  cir^ 
nd  wide 
5  of  or- 
irise  and 
)wer  and 
ickinaw) 
ngrossed 
!an    bor- 

him  to 
18  aware 

already 
undaries 
ens,  and 
\  to  ac- 
if  aided 
e  whole 
He  was 

it,  and 

execu- 

ned,  in 
State 
Jer  the 
with 
privi- 
3  capi- 
t,  con- 
board 
;    the 
s  and 
do  so 
'  of  a 


» 


corporation,  rather  than  in  liis  individual  name, 
and  his  policy  was  sagacions  and  effective. 

As  the  Mackinaw  Company  still  continued  its 
rivalry,  and  as  the  fur  trade  would  not  advanta- 
geously admit  of  competition,  he  made  a  new  ar- 
rangement in  1811,  by  which,  in  conjunction 
with  certain  partners  of  the  Northwest  Company, 
and  other  persons  engaged  in  the  fur  trade,  he 
bought  out  the  Mackinaw  Company,  and  merged 
that  and  the  American  Fur  Company  into  a  new 
association,  to  be  called  the  '*  Southwest  Com- 
pany." This  he  likewise  did  with  the  privity  and 
approbation  of  the  American  government. 

By  this  arrangement  Mr.  Astor  became  pro- 
prietor of  one  half  of  the  Indian  establishments 
and  goods  which  the  Mackinaw  Company  had 
within  the  territory  of  the  Indian  country  in 
the  United  States,  and  it  was  understood  that 
the  whole  was  to  be  surrendered  into  his  hands 
at  the  expiration  of  five  years,  on  condition  that 
the  American  Company  would  not  trade  within 
the  British  dominions. 

Unluckily,  the  war  which  broke  oat  in  1812 
between  Great  Britain  and  the  United  States 
suspended  the  association ;  and,  after  the  war,  it 
was  entirely  dissolved  ;  Congress  having  passed  a 
law  prohibiting  British  fur  traders  from  prosecu- 
ting their  enterprises  within  the  territories  of  the 
United  States. 


CHAPTER   III. 


iHILE  the  various  companies  we  have 
noticed  were  pushing  their  enteiprises 
far  and  wide  in  the  wilds  of  Canada, 
and  along  the  course  of  the  great  western  waters, 
other  adventurers,  intent  on  the  same  objects, 
were  traversing  the  watery  wastes  of  the  Pacific 
and  skirting  the  northwest  coast  of  America. 
Theb  last  voyage  of  that  renowned  but  unfortu- 
nate discoverer,  Captain  Cook,  had  made  known 
the  vast  quantities  of  the  sea-otter  to  be  found 
along  that  coast,  and  the  immense  prices  to  be 
obtained  for  its  fur  in  China.  It  was  as  if 
a  new  gold  coast  had  been  discovered.  Individ- 
uals from  various  countries  dashed  into  this  lu- 
crative traffic,  so  that  in  the  year  1792,  there 
were  twenty-one  vessels  under  different  flags, 
plying  along  the  coast  and  trading  with  the 
natives.  The  greater  part  of  them  were  Ameri- 
can, and  owned  by  Boston  merchants.  They 
generally  remained  on  the  coast  and  about  the 
adjacent  seas,  for  two  years,  carrying  on  as  wan- 
dering and  adventurous  a  commerce  on  the  water 
as  did  the  traders  and  trappers  on  land.  Their 
irade  extended  along  the  whole  coast  from  Cali- 
fornia to  the  high  northern  latitudes.  They 
would  run  in  near  shore,  anchor,  and  wait  for 


RUSSIAN  ENTERPRISES 


U 


e   have 

eiprisea 

Oanada, 

waters, 

objects, 

Pacific 

merica. 

nfortu- 

knowii 

found 

to  be 

as  if 

idivid- 

lis  lu- 

there 

flags, 

the 

meri- 

They 

t  the 

wan- 

vater 

^heir 

'^ali- 

They 

i  for 


the  natives  to  come  off  in  their  canoes  v^ith  pel- 
tries. The  trade  exhausted  at  one  place,  they 
would  up  anchor  and  off  to  another.  In  this 
way  they  would  consume  the  summer,  and  when 
autumn  came  on,  would  run  down  to  the  Sandwich 
Islands  and  winter  in  some  friendly  and  plentiful 
harbor.  In  the  following  year  they  would  re* 
sume  their  summer  trade,  commencing  at  Cali- 
fornia and  proceeding  north :  and,  having  in  the 
course  of  the  two  seasons  collected  a  sufficient 
cargo  of  peltries,  would  make  the  best  of  their  way 
to  China.  Here  they  would  sell  their  furs,  take 
in  teas,  nankeens,  and  other  merchandise,  and 
return  to  Boston,  after  an  absence  of  two  or  three 
years. 

The  people,  however,  who  entered  most  exten- 
sively and  effectively  in  the  fur  trade  of  the 
Pacific,  were  the  Russians.  Instead  of  making 
casual  voyages,  in  transient  ships,  they  estab- 
lished regular  trading  houses  in  the  high  latitudes, 
along  the  northwest  coast  of  America,  and  upon 
the  chain  of  the  Aleutian  Islands  between  Kamc- 
schatka  and  the  promontory  of  Alaska. 

To  promote  and  protect  these  enterprises,  a 
company  was  incorporated  by  the  Russian  gov- 
ernment with  exclusive  privileges,  and  a  capital 
of  two  hundred  and  sixty  thousand  pounds  stcr- 
ling;  and  the  sovereignty  of  that  part  of  the 
American  continent,  along  the  coast  of  which  the 
posts  had  been  established,  was  claimed  by  the 
Russian  crown,  on  the  plea  that  the  land  had 
been  discovered  and  occupied  by  its  subjects. 

Aa  China  was  the  grand  mai't  for  the  furs  col' 


I 


|i 


2B 


ASTORIA. 


lected  in  these  quarters,  the  Russians  had  the 
advantage  over  their  competitors  in  the  trade. 
The  Intter  had  to  take  their  peltries  to  Canton, 
which,  however,  was  a  mere  receiving  mart,  from 
whence  they  had  to  be  distributed  over  the  in- 
terior of  the  empire  and  sent  to  the  northern 
parts,  where  there  was  the  chief  consumption. 
The  Russians,  on  the  contrary,  carried  their  furs, 
by  a  shorter  voyage,  directly  to  the  northern 
parts  of  the  Chinese  empire;  thus  being  able  to 
afford  them  in  the  market  without  the  additional 
cost  of  internal  transportation. 

We  come  now  to  the  immediate  field  of  opera- 
tion of  the  great  enterprise  we  have  undertaken 
to  illustrate. 

Among  the  American  ships  which  traded  along 
the  northwest  coast  in  1792,  was  the  Columbia, 
Captain  Gray,  of  Boston.  In  the  course  of  her 
voyage  she  discovered  the  mouth  of  a  large  river 
in  lat.  46°  19'  north.  Entering  it  with  some 
difficulty,  on  account  of  sand-bars  and  breakers, 
she  came  to  anchor  in  a  spacious  bay.  A  b  at 
was  well  manned,  and  sent  on  shore  to  a  village 
on  the  beach,  but  all  the  inhabitants  fled  except- 
ing the  wged  and  infirm.  The  kind  manner  in 
which  these  were  treated,  and  the  presents  given 
to  them,  gradually  lured  back  the  others,  and  a 
friendly  intercourse  took  place.  They  had  never 
seen  a  ship  or  a  white  man.  When  they  had 
first  descried  the  Columbia,  they  had  supposed  it 
a  floating  island ;  then  some  monster  of  the  deep ; 
but  when  tliey  saw  the  boat  putting  for  shore 
with   human    beings    on    board,  they  considered 


DISCOVERY   OF  THE  COLUMBIA. 


27 


ters. 


them  cannibals  sent  by  the  Great  Spirit  to  rav- 
age the  country  and  devour  the  inhabitants. 
Captain  Gray  did  not  ascend  the  river  farther 
than  the  bay  in  question,  which  continues  to  bear 
his  name.  After  putting  to  sea,  he  fell  in  witli 
the  celebrated  discoverer,  Vancouver,  and  in- 
formed him  of  his  discovery,  furnishing  him  with 
a  chart  which  he  had  made  of  the  river.  Van- 
couver visited  the  river,  and  his  lieutenant, 
Broughton,  explored  it  by  the  aid  of  Captain 
Gray's  chart ;  ascending  it  upwards  of  one  hun- 
dred miles,  until  within  view  of  a  snowy  moun- 
tain, to  which  he  gave  the  name  of  Mount  Hood, 
which  it  still  retains. 

'rhe  existence  of  this  river,  however,  was 
known  long  before  the  visits  of  Gray  and  Vancou- 
ver, but  the  information  concerning  it  was  vague 
and  indefinite,  being  gathered  from  the  reports 
of  Indians.  It  was  spoken  of  by  travellers  as 
the  Oregon,  and  as  the  Great  River  of  the  West. 
A  Spanish  ship  is  said  to  have  been  wrecked  at 
the  mouth,  several  of  the  crew  of  which  lived 
for  some  time  among  iJie  natives.  The  Colum- 
bia, however,  is  believed  to  be  the  first  ship  that 
made  a  regular  discovery  and  anchored  within  its 
waters,  and  it  has  since  generally  borne  the  name 
of  that  vessel. 

As  early  as  1763,  shortly  after  the  acquisition 
vf  the  Canadas  by  Great  Britain,  Captain  Jona- 
than Carver,  who  had  been  in  the  British  provin- 
lial  army,  projected  a  journey  across  the  conti- 
nent between  the  forty-third  and  forty-sixth 
iegrees  of  northern  latitude  to  the  shores  of  the 


f !     'i 


'    i ' 


28 


ASTORIA. 


/ 


Pacific  Ocean.  His  objects  were  to  ascertain 
the  breadth  of  the  continent  at  its  broadest  part, 
and  to  determine  on  some  place  on  the  shores  of 
the  Pacific,  where  government  might  establish  a 
post  to  facilitate  the  discovery  of  a  northwest 
passage,  or  a  communication  between  Hudson's 
Bay  and  the  Pacific  Ocean.  This  place  he  pre- 
sumed would  be  somewhere  about  the  Straits  of 
Annian,  at  wixich  point  he  supposed  the  Oregon 
disembogued  itself.  It  was  his  opinion,  alsoy 
that  a  settlement  on  this  extremity  of  America 
would  disclose  new  sources  of  trade,  promote 
many  useful  discoveries,  and  open  a  more  direct 
communicariou  with  China  and  the  English  set- 
tlements in  the  East  Indies^  than  that  by  t^he 
Cape  of  Good  Hope  or  the  Straits  of  Magellan.^ 
This  enterprising  and  intrepid  traveller  was  twice 
baffled  in  individual  efforts  to  accomplish  this 
great  journey.  In  1774,  he  was  joined  in  the 
scheme  by  Richard  Whitworth,  a  member  of 
Parliament,  and  a  man  of  wealth.  Their  enter- 
prise was  projected  on  a  broad  and  bold  plan. 
They  were  to  take  with  them  fifty  or  sixty  men, 
artificers  and  mariners.  With  these  they  were 
to  make  their  way  up  one  of  the  branches  of 
the  Missouri,  explore  the  mountains  for  the 
source  of  the  Oregon,  or  River  of  the  West,  and 
sail  down  that  river  to  its  supposed  exit,  near  the 
Straits  of  Annian.  Here  they  were  to  erect  a 
fort,  and  build  the  vessels  necessary  to  carry 
their  discoveries  by  sea  into  effect.  Their  plan 
dad  the  sanction  of  the  British  government,  and 

1  Carver's  Travels,  Introd.  b.  iii.    Philad.  1796. 


MA  CKENZWS  DI8 CO  VERIES. 


29 


of 

the 

ind 

le 

a 

•ry 

an 

r.d 


grants    and    other    requisites  were    nearly   com- 
pleted, when  the  breaking  out  of  the  American 

Revolution    once    more   d'^feated    the    undertak- 
*      1  " 

The  expedition  of  Sir  Alexander  Mackenzie  in 
1793,  across  tiie  continent  to  the  Pacific  Ocean, 
which  he  reached  in  lat.  52°  20'  48'',  again  sug- 
gested the  possibility  of  linking  together  the 
trade  of  both  sides  of  the  continent.  In  lat.  52® 
30'  he  had  descended  a  river  for  some  distance 
which  fiowed  towards  the  south,  and  was  called 
by  the  natives  Tacoutche  Tesse,  and  which  he 
erroneously  supposed  to  be  the  Columbia.  It 
was  afterwards  ascertained  tl^at  it  emptied  itself 
in  lat.  49°,  whereas  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia 
is  about  three  degrees  further  souths. 

When  Mackenzie  some  years  subsequently 
published  an  account  of  his  expeditions,  he  sug- 
gested the  policy  of  opening  an  intercourse  be- 
tween the  Atlantic  and  Pacific  oceans,  and  form- 
ing regular  establishments  through  the  interior 
and  at  both  extremes,  as  well  as  along  the  coasts 
and  islands.  By  this  means,  he  observed,  the 
entire  command  of  the  fur  trade  of  North  Amer- 
ica might  be  obtained  from  lat.  48°  north,  to  the 
pole,  excepting  that  portion  held  by  the  Russians, 
for  as  to  the  American  adventurers  who  had 
hitherto  enjoyed  the  traffic  along  the  northwest 
coast,  they  would  instantly  disappear,  he  added, 
before  a  well  regulated  trade. 

A  scheme  of  this  kind,  however,  was  too  vast 
ind  hazardous  for  individual  enterprise ;  it  could 

I  Carver's  Travels,  p.  360.    Philad.  1796. 


80 


ASTORIA, 


r   i 


W  • 


only  be  nndertaken  by  a  company  under  the 
Banction  and  protection  of  H  government ;  and  as 
there  mij]^ht  be  a  clashing  of  claims  between  the 
Hudson's  Bay  and  Northwest  Company,  the  one 
holding  by  right  of  charter,  the  other  by  right 
of  possession,  he  proposed  that  the  two  companies 
should  coalesce  in  this  great  undertaking.  The 
iong-cherished  jealousies  of  these  two  companies, 
however,  v  ere  too  deep  and  strong  to  allow  them 
to  listen  to  such  counsel. 

In  the  meantime  the  attention  of  the  AmericaD 
government  was  attracted  to  the  subject,  and  the 
memorable  expedition  under  Messrs.  Lewis  and 
Clarke,  fitted  out.  ,  These  gentlemen,  in  1804, 
accomplished  the  enterprise  which  had  been  pro- 
jected by  Carver  and  Whit  worth,  in  1774.  They 
ascended  the  Missouri,  passed  through  the  stu- 
pendous  gates  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  hitherto 
unknown  to  white  men ;  discovered  and  explored 
the  upper  waters  of  the  Columbia,  and  followed 
that  river  down  to  its  mouth,  where  their  country- 
man. Gray,  had  anchored  about  twelve  years  pre- 
viously. Here  they  passed  the  winter,  and 
returned  across  the  mountains  in  the  following 
spring.  The  reports  published  by  them  of  their 
expedition,  demonstrated  the  practicability  of  es- 
tablishing a  line  of  communication  across  the 
continent,  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific  Ocean. 

It  was  then  that  the  idea  presented  itself  to 
the  mind  of  Mr.  Astor,  of  grasping  with  his 
Individual  hand  this  great  enterprise,  which  for 
years  had  been  dubiously  yet  desirously  contem- 
plated   by    powerful    associations    and    maternal 


a] 


MR.  ABTOIVS  PROJECT. 


di 


governrr.ents.  For  some  time  lie  revolved  the 
Men  in  his  mind,  gradually  extending  and  matur- 
ing his  plans  as  his  means  of  executing  them 
augmented.  Tlie  main  feature  of  his  scheme 
was  to  establish  a  line  of  trading  posts  along  the 
Missouri  and  the  Columbia,  to  the  mouth  of  the 
latter,  where  was  to  be  founded  the  chief  trading 
house  or  mart.  Inferior  posts  would  be  estab- 
lished in  the  interior,  and  on  all  the  tributary 
streams  of  the  Columbia,  to  trade  with  the 
Indians ;  these  posts  would  draw  their  supplies 
from  the  main  establishment,  and  bring  to  it  the 
peltries  they  collected.  Coasting  craft  would  be 
built  and  fitted  out,  also,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Columbia,  to  trade,  at  favorable  seasons,  all  along 
the  northwest  coast,  and  return,  with  the* proceeds 
of  their  voyages,  to  this  place  of  deposit.  Thus 
all  the  Indian  trade,  both  of  the  interior  and  the 
coast,  would  converge  to  this  point,  and  thence 
derive  its  sustenance.  • 

A  ship  was  to  be  sent  annually  from  New 
York  to  this  main  establishment  with  reinforce- 
ments and  supplies,  and  with  merchandise  suited 
to  the  trade.  It  would  take  on  board  the  furs 
collected  during  the  preceding  year,  carry  them 
to  Canton,  invest  the  proceeds  in  the  rich  mer- 
chandise of  China,  and  return  thus  freighted,  to 
New  York. 

As,  in  extending  the  American  trade  along 
the  coast  to  the  northward,  it  might  be  brought 
into  the  vicinity  of  the  Russian  Fur  Company, 
and  produce  a  hostile  rivalry,  it  was  part  of  the 
plan  of  Mr.  Astor  to  conciliate  the  good- will  of 


82 


ASTORIA. 


li  :. 


that  company  by  the  moat  amicable  and  beneficial 
arrangements.  The  Russian  establishment  was 
chiefly  dependent  for  its  supplies  upon  transient 
trading  vessels  from  the  United  States.  These 
vessels,  however,  were  often  of  more  harm  than 
advantage.  Being  owned  by  private  adventurers, 
or  casual  voyagers,  who  cared  only  for  present 
profit,  and  had  no  interest  in  the  permanent  pros- 
perity  of  the  trade,  they  were  reckless  in  their 
dealings  with  the  natives,  and  made  no  scruple 
of  supplying  them  with  fire-arms.  In  this  way 
several  fierce  tribes  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Russian 
posts,  or  within  the  range  of  their  trading  excur- 
sions, were  furnished  with  deadly  means  of  war- 
fare, and  rendered  troublesome  and  dangerous 
neighbor^. 

The  Russian  government  had  made  representa- 
i,ions  to  that  of  the  United  States  of  these  mal- 
practices on  the  part  of  its  citizens,  and  urged  to 
have  this  traffic  in  arms  prohibited  ;  but,  as  it  did 
not  infringe  any  municipal  law,  our  gov  -niment 
could  not  interfere.  Yet  still  it  regarded,  with 
solicitude,  a  traffic  which,  if  persisted  in,  might 
give  offense  to  Ru&sia,  at  that  time  almost  the 
only  friendly  power  to  us.  In  this  dilemma  the 
government  had  applied  to  Mr.  Astor,  as  one  con- 
Vi'Tsant  in  this  branch  of  trade,  for  information 
that  might  point  out  a  way  to  remedy  the  evil. 
This  circumstance  had  suggested  to  him  the  idea 
of  supplying  the  Russian  establishment  regularly 
by  means  of  the  annual  ship  that  should  visit  the 
settlement  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  (or 
Oregon)  ;  by  this  means  the  casual  trading  ves- 


5!  IK  i 


LETTER   OF  MR.  JEFFERSON. 


88 


«c1s  would  be  excluded  from  those  parts  of  the 
coast  where  their  malpractices  were  so  injurious 
to  the  Russians. 

Such  is  a  brief  outline  of  the  enterprise  pro- 
jected by  Mr.  Astor,  but  which  continually  ex- 
panded in  his  mind.  Indeed  it  is  due  to  him  to 
say  that  he  was  not  actuated  by  mere  motives  ot 
individual  profit.  He  was  already  wealthy  be- 
yond the  ordinary  desires  of  man,  but  he  now 
aspired  to  that  honorable  fame  which  is  awarded 
to  men  of  similar  scope  of  mind,  who  by  their 
great  commercial  enterprises  have  enriched  na- 
tions, peopled  wildernesses,  and  extended  the 
bounds  of  empire.  He  considered  his  projected 
establishment  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  as 
the  emporium  to  an  immense  commerce ;  as  a 
colony  that  would  form  the  germ  of  a  wide 
civilization ;  that  would,  in  fact,  carry  the  Ameri- 
can population  across  the  Rocky  Mountains  and 
i^pread  it  along  the  shores  of  the  Pacific,  as  it 
already  animated  the  shores  of  the  Atlantic. 

As  Mr.  Astor,  by  the  magnitude  of  his  com- 
mercial and  financial  relations,  and  the  vigor  and 
scope  of  his  self-taught  mind,  had  elevated  him- 
self into  the  consideration  of  government  and  the 
communion  and  correspondence  with  leading 
btatesmen,  he,  at  an  early  period,  communicated 
his  schemes  to  President  Jefferson,  soliciting  the 
countenance  of  government.  How  highly  they 
were  esteemed  by  that  eminent  man,  we  may 
judge  by  the  following  passage,  written  by  him 
some  time  afterwards  to  Mr.  Astor. 

**  I  remember  well  having  invited  your  prop* 
3 


B4 


ASTORIA. 


Oflition  on  this  subject,'  and  encouraged  it.  with 
the  assurance  of  every  facility  and  protection 
which  the  government  could  properly  afford.  I 
considered,  as  a  great  public  acquisition,  the  com- 
tnenoment  of  a  settlement  on  that  point  of  the 
western  coast  of  Amo'ica,  and  looked  forward 
with  gratification  to  the  time  when  its  descend* 
ants  should  hare  -nread  themselves  through  the 
whole  length  of  that  coast,  covering  it  with  free 
and  independent  Americans,  unconnected  with  us 
but  by  the  ties  of  blood  and  interest,  and  enjoy- 
ing like  us  the  rights  of  self-government." 

The  cabinet  joined  with  Mr.  Jefferson  in  warm 
approbation  of  the  plan,  and  held  out  assurance 
of  every  protection  that  could,  consistently  with 
general  policy,  be  afforded. 

Mr.  Aator  now  prepared  to  carry  his  scheme 
into  prompt  execution.  He  had  some  competi- 
tion, however,  to  apprehend  and  guard  against. 
The  Northwest  Company,  acting  feebly  and  par- 
tially upon  the  suggestions  of  its  former  agent, 
Sir  Alexander  Mackenzie,  had  pushed  one  or 
two  advanced  trading  posts  across  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  into  a  tract  of  country  visaed  by  that 
enterprising  traveller,  and  since  named  New 
Caledonia.  This  tract  lay  about  two  degrees 
kiorth  of  the  Columbia,  and  intervened  between 


J  On  this  point  Mr.  Jefferson's  memory  was  in  error.  The 
proposition  alluded  to  was  the  one,  already  mentioned,  for  the 
establishment  of  an  American  Fur  Company  in  the  Atlantic 
States.  The  great  enterprise  beyond  the  mountains,  that  was 
to  sweep  the  shores  of  the  Pacific,  originated  in  the  mind  of 
Mr.  Astor,  and  was  proposed  by  him  to  the  government. 


r 


DISADVANTAGES  OF  RIVALRY. 


85 


I  the 

itic 

ra.9 

of 


the  territories  of  tiie  United  States  nnd  tlioie  of 
Russia.  Its  length  was  about  five  hundred  and 
fifty  miles,  and  its  breadth,  from  the  niouutainp 
to  the  Pacific,  from  three  hundred  to  three  hun> 
dred  and  fifty  geographical  miles. 

Should  the  Northwest  Company  persist  in  ex- 
tending their  trade  in  that  quarter,  their  compO" 
lition  might  be  of  serious  detriment  to  the  plant 
of  Mr.  Aator.  It  is  true  they  would  contend 
with  him  to  a  vast  disadvantage,  from  the  checks 
and  restrictions  to  which  they  were  8«jbjected. 
They  were  straitened  on  one  side  by  the  rivalry 
of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company ;  then  ■  they  had 
no  good  post  on  the  Pacific  where  they  could 
receive  supplies  by  sea  for  their  establishments 
beyond  the  mountains ;  nor,  if  they  had  one, 
could  they  ship  their  furs  thence  to  China,  that 
great  mart  for  peltries  ;  the  Chinese  trade  being 
comprised  in  the  monopoly  of  the  East  India 
Company.  Their  posts  beyond  the  mountains 
had  to  be  supplied  in  yearly  expeditions,  like 
caravans,  from  Montreal,  and  the  furs  conveyed 
back  in  the  same  way,  by  long,  precarious,  and 
expensive  routes,  across  the  continent.  Mr. 
Astor,  on  the  contrary,  would  be  able  to  supply 
his  proposed  establishment  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Columbia  by  sea,  and  to  ship  the  furs  collected 
there  directly  to  China,  so  as  to  undersell  the 
Northwest  Company  in  the  great  Chinese  market. 

Still,  the  competition  of  two  rival  companies 
west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  could  not  but  prove 
detrimental  to  both,  and  fraught  with  those  evils, 
ooth  to  the  trade  and  to  the  Indians,  that  had  at* 


86 


ASTORIA. 


tended  similar  rivalries  in  the  Canadas.  To  pre- 
vent any  contest  of  the  tcind,  therefore,  he  made 
known  hia  plan  to  the  agents  of  the  Northwest 
Company,  and  proposed  to  interest  them,  to  the 
extent  of  one  third,  in  the  trade  thus  to  be  opened. 
8ome  correspondence  and  negotiation  ensued.  The 
company  were  aware  of  the  advantages  which 
would  be  possessed  by  Mr.  Astor  should  ho  be 
able  to  carry  his  scheme  into  effect ;  but  they  an- 
ticipated a  monopoly  of  the  trade  beyond  the 
mountains  by  their  establishments  in  New  Cale- 
donia, and  were  loth  to  share  it  with  an  individual 
who  had  already  proved  a  formidable  competitor 
in  the  Atlantic  trade.  They  hoped,  too,  by  a 
timely  move,  to  secure  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia 
before  Mr.  Astor  would  be  able  to  put  his  plans 
into  operation ;  and,  that  key  to  the  internal  trade 
once  in  their  possession,  the  whole  country  would 
be  at  their  command.  After  some  negotiation 
and  delay,  therefore,  they  declined  the  proposition 
that  had  been  made  to  them,  but  subsequently 
dispatched  a  party  for  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia, 
to  establish  a  post  there  before  any  expedition 
sent  out  by  Mr.  Astor  might  arrive. 

Ir.  the  mean  time  Mr.  Astor,  finding  his  over- 
tures rejected,  proceeded  fearlessly  to  execute  his 
enterprise  in  face  of  the  whole  power  of  the  North- 
west Company.  His  main  establishment  once 
planted  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia,  he  looked 
with  confidence  to  ultimate  success.  Being  able 
to  reinforce  and  supply  it  amply  by  sea,  Jie  would 
push  his  interior  posts  in  every  direction  up  the 
rivers  aud  along  the  coast ;  supplying  the  natives 


PREPARATIONS  FOR   THE  ENTERPRISE.      37 


%i  a  lower  rate,  and  thus  gradually  obliging  the 
Northwest  Company  to  give  up  the  competition, 
relinquish  New  Caledonia,  and  retire  to  the  other 
side  of  the  mountains.  He  would  then  have  pos- 
session of  the  trade,  not  merely  of  the  Columbia 
and  its  tributaries,  but  of  the  regions  farther  north, 
quite  to  the  Russian  possessions.  Such  was  a 
part  of  his  brilliant  and  comprehensive  plan. 

He  now  proceeded,  with  all  diligence,  to  pro- 
cure proper  agents  and  coadjutors,  habituated  to 
the  Indian  trade  and  to  the  life  of  the  wilderness. 
Among  the  clerks  of  the  Northwest  Company 
were  several  of  great  capacity  and  experience, 
who  had  served  out  their  probationary  terms,  bul 
who,  either  through  lack  of  interest  and  influence, 
or  a  want  of  vacancies,  had  not  been  promoted. 
They  were  consequently  much  dissatisfied,  and 
ready  for  any  employment  in  which  their  talents 
and  acquirements  might  be  turned  to  better  ac- 
count. 

Mr.  Astor  made  his  overtures  to  several  of  these 
persons,  and  three  of  them  entered  into  his  views. 
One  of  these,  Mr.  Alexander  M'Kay,  had  ac- 
companied Sir  Alexander  Mackenzie  in  both  of 
his  expeditions  to  the  northwest  coast  of  America 
in  1789  and  1793.  The  other  two  were  Duncan 
M'Dougal  and  Donald  M'Kenzie.  To  these  were 
subsequently  added  Mr.  Wilson  Price  Hunt,  of 
New  Jersey.  As  this  gentleman  was  a  native 
boi'n  citizen  of  the  United  States,  a  person  of 
great  probity  and  worth,  he  was  selected  by  Mr 
Astor  to  be  his  chief  agent,  and  to  represent  him 
'h  the  contemplated  establishment. 


1: 


88 


ASTORIA. 


On  the  23(1  of  June,  1810,  articles  of  agree- 
ment were  entered  into  between  Mr.  Astor  and 
those  four  gentlemen,  acting  for  themselves  and 
for  the  several  persons  who  had  already  agreed  to 
become,  or  siiould  thereafter  become,  associated 
under  the  firm  of "  The  Pacific  Fur  CompHuy." 

According  to  these  articles,  Mr.  Astor  was  to 
be  at  the  head  of  the  company,  and  to  manage  its 
affairs  in  New  York.  He  was  to  furnish  vessels, 
gcjds,  provisions,  arms,  ammunition,  and  all  other 
requisites  for  the  enterprise  at  first  cost  and 
charges,  provided  that  they  did  not,  at  any  time, 
involve  an  advance  of  more  than  four  hundred 
thousand  dollars. 

The  stock  of  the  company  was  to  be  divided 
into  a  hundred  equal  shares,  with  the  profits  ac- 
cruing thereon.  Fifty  shares  were  to  be  at  the 
disposition  of  Mr.  Astor,  and  the  other  fifty  to  be 
divided  among  the  partners  and  their  associates. 

Mr.  Astor  was  to  have  the  privilege  of  intro« 
lacing  other  persons  into  the  connection,  as  part- 
ners, two  of  whom,  at  least,  should  be  conversant 
with  the  Indian  trade,  and  none  of  them  entitled 
to  rao 'e  than  three  shares. 

A  general  meeting  of  the  company  was  to  be 
held  annually  at  Columbia  River,  for  the  inves- 
tigation and  regulation  of  its  a^Tairs ;'  at  which 
absent  members  might  be  represented,  and  might 
vote  by  proxy  under  certain  specified  conditions. 

The  association,  if  successful,  was  to  continue 
for  twenty  years ;  but  the  parties  had  full  power 
to  abandon  and  dissolve  it  within  the  first  five 
years,  shorld  it  be  found  unprofitable.     For  thia 


THE  PACIFIC  FUR   COMPANY. 


89 


term  Mr.  Astor  covenanted  to  bear  all  the  loss 
that  might  be  incurred ;  after  which  it  was  to  be 
borne  by  all  the  partners,  in  proportion  to  their 
respective  shares. 

The  parties  of  the  second  part  were  to  execute 
faithfully  such  duties  as  might  be  assigned  to  them 
by  a  majority  of  the  company  on  the  northwest 
coast,  and  to  repair  to  such  place  or  places  as  the 
majority  might  direct. 

An  agent,  appointed  for  the  term  of  five  years, 
was  to  reside  at  the  principal  establishment  oq 
the  northwest  coast,  and  Wilson  Price  Hunt  was 
the  one  chosen  for  the  first  term.  Should  the 
interests  of  the  concern  at  any  time  require  his 
absence,  a  person  was  to  be  appointed,  in  general 
meeting,  to  take  his  place. 

Such  were  the  leading  conditions  of  this  as- 
sociation; we  shall  now  proceed  to  relate  the 
various  hardy  and  eventful  expeditions,  by  Bei| 
and  land,  to  which  it  gave  rise. 


ight 


\^^r^-)'^'^^' 


CHAPTER  IV. 


|N  prosecuting  his  great  scheme  of  com 
merce  and  colonization,  two  expeditions 
were  devised  by  Mr.  Astor,  one  by  sea, 
the  other  by  land.  The  former  was  to  carry  out 
the  people,  stores,  ammunition,  and  merchandise, 
requisite  for  establishing  a  fortified  trading  post 
at  the'mouth  of  Columbia  River.  The  latter,  con- 
ducted by  Mr.  Hunt,  was  to  proceed  up  the  Mis- 
souri, and  across  the  Rocky  Mountains,  to  the 
same  point;  exploring  a  line  of  communication 
across  the  continent,  and  noting  the  places  where 
interior  trading  posts  might  be  established.  The 
expedition  by  sea  is  the  one  which  comes  first 
under  consideration. 

A  fine  ship  was  provided  called  the  Tonquin, 
of  two  hundred  and  ninety  tons  burden,  mounting 
ten  guns,  with  a  crew  of  twenty  men.  She  carried 
an  assortment  of  merchandise  for  trading  with  the 
natives  of  the  sea-board  and  of  the  interior,  to- 
gether with  the  frame  of  a  schooner,  to  be  employed 
in  the  coasting  trade.  Seeds  also  were  provided 
for  the  cultivation  of  the  soil,  and  nothing  was 
neglected  for  the  necessary  supply  of  the  establish- 
ment The  command  of  the  ship  was  intrusted 
to  Jonathan  Thorn,  of  New  York,  a  lieutenant 
in  the  United  Sutes  navy,  on  leave  of  absence. 


MEMBERS   OF   THE  EXPEDITION. 


41 


He  was  ^  man  of  courage  and  firmness,  who  had 
distinguished  himself  in  pur  Tripolitan  war,  and, 
from  being  accustomed  to  naval  discipline,  was 
considered  by  Mr.  Astor  as  well  fitted  to  take 
charge  of  an  expedition  of  the  kind.  Four  of 
the  partners  were  to  embark  in  the  ship,  namely, 
Messrs.  M'Kay,  M'Dougal,  David  Stuart,  and  his 
nephew,  Robert  Stuart.  Mr.  M'Dougal  was  em- 
powered by  Mr.  Astor  to  act  as  his  proxy  in  the 
absence  of  Mr.  Hunt,  to  vote  for  him  and  in  his 
nf  me,  on  any  question  that  might  come  before  any 
meeting  of  the  persons  interested  in  the  voyage. 

Beside  the  partners,  there  were  twelve  clerks 
to  go  out  in  the  ship,  several  of  them  natives  of 
Canada,  who  had  some  experience  in  Indian  trade. 
They  were  bound  to  the  service  of  the  company 
for  five  years,  at  the  rate  of  one  hundred  dollars  a 
year,  payable  at  the  expiration  of  the  term,  and 
an  annual  equipment  of  clothing  to  the  amount 
of  forty  dollars.  In  case  of  ill  conduct  they  were 
liable  to  forfeit  their  wages  and  be  dismissed ;  but, 
should  they  acquit  themselves  well,  the  confident 
expectation  was  held  out  to  them  of  promotion, 
and  partnership.  Their  interests  were  thus,  to 
some  extent,  identified  with  those  of  the  company. 

Several  artisans  were  likewise  to  sail  in  the 
uhip,  for  the  supply  of  the  colony ;  but  the  most 
peculiar  and  characteristic  part  of  this  motley  em- 
barkation consisted  of  thirteen  Canadian  "voy- 
ageurs,"  who  had  enlisted  for  five  years.  As  this 
class  of  functionaries  will  continually  recur  in  the 
course  of  the  following  narrations,  and  as  they 
form  one  of  those  disdnct  and  strongly  marked 


42 


ASTORIA, 


'M 


:J, 


castes  or  orders  of  people,  springing  up  in  this 
vast  continent  out  of  geographical  circumstances, 
or  the  varied  pursuits,  habitudes,  and  origins  of 
its  population,  we  shall  sketch  a  few  of  their 
character'  ;tics  for  the  information  of  the  reader. 

The  "  voyageurs  "  form  a  kmd  of  confraternity 
in  the  Cauadas,  like  the  arrieros,  or  carriers  of 
Spain,  and,  like  them,  are  employed  in  long  in- 
ternal expeditions  of  travel  and  traffic:  with  this 
difference,  that  the  arrieros  travel  by  land,  the  voy- 
ageurs by  water;  the  former  with  mules  afld 
horses,  the  latter  with  batteaux  and  canoes.  The 
voyageurs  may  be  said  to  have  sprung  up  out  of 
the  fur  trade,  having  originally  been  employed  by 
the  early  French  merchants  in  their  trading  ex- 
peditions through  the  labyrinth  of  rivers  and  lakes 
of  the  boundless  interior.  They  were  coeval  with 
the  coureurs  des  bois,  or  rangers  of  the  woods,  aU 
ready  noticed,  and,  like  them,  in  the  intervals  of 
their  long,  arduous,  and  laborious  expeditions,  were 
prone  to  pass  their  time  in  idleness  and  revelry 
about  the  trading  posts  or  settlements ;  squander » 
ing  their  hard  earnings  in  heedless  conviviality, 
and  rivaling  their  neighbors,  the  Indians,  in  in- 
dolent indulgence  and  an  imprudent  disregard  of 
the  morrow. 

When  Canada  passed  under  British  domination, 
and  the  old  French  trading  houses  were  broken 
up,  the  voyageurs,  like  the  coureurs  des  hois,  were 
for  a  time  disheartened  and  disconsolate,  and  with 
difficulty  could  reconcile  themselves  to  the  service 
of  the  new-comers,  so  diiferent  in  habits,  manners, 
and  language  from  their  former  employers.     By 


CANADIAN   VOYAQEURS, 


48 


degrees,  however,  they  became  accustomed  to  the 
change,  and  at  length  came  to  consider  the  British 
fur  traders,  and  especially  the  members  of  the 
Northwest  Company,  as  the  legitimate  lords  of 
creation. 

The  dress  of  these  people  is  generally  half 
civilized,  half  savage.  They  wear  a  capot  or  sui  • 
coat,  made  of  a  blanket,  a  striped  cotton  shirt, 
cloth  trowsers,  or  leathern  leggins,  moccasins  of 
deer-skin,  and  a  belt  of  variegated  worsted,  from 
which  are  suspended  the  knife,  tobacco-pouch,  and 
other  implements.  Their  language  is  of  the  same 
piebald  character,  being  a  French  patois,  embroi- 
dered with  Indian  and  English  words  and  phrases. 

The  lives  of  the  voyageurs  are  passed  in  wUd 
and  extensive  rovings,  in  the  service  of  individuals, 
but  more  especially  of  the  fur  traders.  They  are 
generally  of  French  descent,  and  inherit  much  of 
the  gayety  and  lightness  of  heart  of  their  ancestors, 
being  full  of  anecdote  and  song,  and  ever  ready 
for  the  dance.  They  inherit,  too,  a  fund  of  civil- 
ity and  complaisance ;  and,  instead  of  that  hai'd- 
ness  and  grossness  which  men  in  laborious  life  are 
apt  to  indulge  towards  each  other,  they  are  mut- 
ually obliging  and  accommodating ;  interchanging 
kind  offices,  yielding  each  other  assistance  and 
comfort  in  every  emergency,  and  using  the  famil- 
iar appellations  of  "  cousin"  and  "  brother"  when 
there  is  in  fact  no  relationship.  Their  natural 
good-will  is  probably  heightened  by  a  community 
of  adventure  and  hardship  in  their  precarious  and 
wandering  lifCi 

No  men  are  more  submissive  to  their  leaders 


44 


ASTORIA. 


''  If 


r  15- 


■'      lip 


11 


f»n(i  employer!!,  more  capable  of  enduring  hard* 
ship,  or  more  good-humored  under  privatious. 
Never  are  they  so  happy  as  when  on  long  and 
rough  expeditions,  toiling  up  rivers  or  coasting 
lakes ;  encamping  at  night  on  the  borders,  gossip- 
ing round  their  fires,  and  bivouacking  in  the  open 
air.  They  are  dextrous  boatmen,  vigorous  and 
adroit  with  the  oar  and  paddle,  and  will  row  from 
morning  until  night  without  a  murmur.  The 
steersman  often  sings  an  old  traditionary  French 
song,  with  some  regular  burden  in  which  they  all 
join,  keeping  time  with  their  oars  ;  if  at  any  time 
they  flag  in  spirits  or  relax  in  exertion,  it  is  but 
necessary  to  strike  up  a  song  of  the  kind  to  put 
them  all  in  fresh  spirits  and  activity.  The  Cana- 
dian waters  are  vocal  with  these  little  French  chan- 
sons, that  have  been  echoed  from  mouth  to  mouth 
and  transmitted  from  father  to  son,  from  the  earliest 
days  of  the  colony ;  and  it  has  a  pleasing  effect, 
in  a  still  golden  summer  evening,  to  see  a  batteau 
gliding  across  the  bosom  of  a  lake  and  dipping  its 
oars  to  the  cadence  of  these  quaint  old  ditties,  or 
sweeping  along  in  full  chorus  on  a  bright  sunny 
morning,  down  the  transparent  current  of  one  of 
the  Canada  rivers. 

But  we  are  talking  of  things  that  are  fast  fad- 
ing away !  The  march  of  mechanical  invention 
is  driving  everything  poetical  before  it.  The 
steamboats,  which  are  fast  dispelling  the  wildness 
and  romance  of  our  lakes  and  rivers,  and  aiding 
to  subdue  the  world  into  commonplace,  are  prov- 
mg  as  fatal  to  the  race  of  the  Canadian  voyageurs 
as  they  have  been  to  that  of  the  boatmen  of  ^a 


BOATING  AND  BOASTING. 


a 


IV- 

|rs 


Mississippi.  Their  glory  is  departed.  They  are 
no  louger  the  lords  of  our  internal  seas,  and  the 
great  navigators  of  the  wilderness.  Sor  j  of  them 
may  still  occasionally  be  seen  coasting  the  lower 
lakes  with  their  frail  barks,  and  pitching  their 
camps  and  lighting  their  fires  upon  the  shores; 
l)ut  their  range  is  fast  contracting  to  those  remote 
waters  and  shallow  and  obstructed  rivers  un visited 
by  the  steamboat.  In  the  course  of  years  they 
will  gradually  disappear ;  their  songs  will  die  away 
like  the  echoes  they  once  awakened,  and  the 
Canadian  voyageurs  will  become  a  forgotten  race, 
or  remembered,  like  their  associates,  the  Indians, 
among  the  poetical  images  of  past  times,  and  as 
themes  for  local  and  romantic  associations. 

An  instance  of  the  buoyant  temperament  and 
the  professional  pride  of  these  people  was  fur- 
nished in  the  gay  and  braggart  style  in  wliich 
they  arrived  at  New  York  to  join  the  enterprise. 
They  were  determined  to  regale  and  astonish  the 
people  of  the  "  States  "  with  the  sight  of  a  Can- 
adian boat  and  a  Canadian  crew.  They  accord- 
ingly fitted  up  a  large  but  light  bark  canoe,  such  as 
is  used  in  the  fiir  trade  ;  transported  it  in  a  wagon 
from  the  banks  of  the  St.  Lawrence  to  the  shores 
of  Lake  Champlain ;  traversed  the  lake  in  it,  from 
end  to  end  ;  hoisted  it  again  in  a  wagon  and 
wheeled  it  off  to  Lansingburgh,  and  there  launched 
it  upon  the  waters  of  the  Hudson.  Down  this 
river  they  plied  their  course  merrily  on  a  fine 
summer's  day,  making  its  banks  resound  for  the 
first  time  with  their  old  French  boat  songs  ;  pass- 
wg  by  the  villages  with  whoop  and  halloo,  so  jis  to 


46 


ASTORIA. 


h     U 


make  the  honest  Dutch  farmers  mistake  them  for 
a  crew  ol  savages.  In  this  way  they  swept,  in 
full  song  and  with  regular  flourish  of  the  paddle, 
round  New  York,  in  a  still  summer  evening,  to 
the  wonder  and  admiration  of  its  inhabitants,  who 
h  ;d  never  before  witnessed  on  the'^  wat»  's,  a 
nautical  apparif'on  of  the  kind. 

Such  was  the  variegated  band  of  rd^/ mil.  vers 
about  to  embark  in  the  Tonquin  on  thi.  ardu  .  =■ 
and  doubtful  enterprise.  While  yet  in  port  and 
on  dry  land,  in  the  bustle  of  preparation  and  the 
excitement  of  novelty,  all  was  sunshine  and 
promise.  The  Canadians,  especially,  who,  with 
their  constitutional  vivacity,  have  a  considerable 
dash  of  the  gascon,  were  buoyant  and  boastful, 
and  great  braggarts  as  to  the  future ;  while  all 
those  who  had  been  in  the  service  of  the  North- 
west Company,  and  engaged  in  the  Indian  trade, 
plumed  themselves  upon  their  hardihood  and 
their  capacity  to  endure  privations.  If  Mr.  Astor 
ventured  to  hint  at  the  difficulties  they  might 
have  to  encounter,  they  treated  them  with  scorn. 
They  were  "  northwesters  ; "  men  seasoned  to 
hardships,  who  cared  for  neither  wind  nor  weather. 
They  could  live  hard,  lie  hard,  sleep  hard, 
eat  dogs !  —  in  a  word  they  were  ready  to  do 
and  suffer  anything  for  the  good  of  the  enter- 
prise. With  all  this  profession  of  zeal  and  de- 
votion, Mr.  Astor  was  not  over-confident  of  the 
stability  and  firm  faith  of  these  mercurial  beings. 
He  had  received  information,  also,  that  an  armed 
brig  from  Halifax,  probably  at  the  instigation  of 
the   Northwest  Company,   was   hovering   on  the 


ABUSE  OF  CONFIDENCE, 


47 


a 


the 

]ed 
of 
the 


coast,  watchii:'*  for  the  Tonquiii,  with  the  pur- 
pose of  impressing  the  Canadians  on  boaid  of 
her,  as  British  suhjeets,  and  thus  interrupting  the 
voyage.  It  was  a  time  of  doubt  and  anxiety, 
when  the  relations  between  the  United  States 
and  Great  Britain  were  daily  assuming  a  more 
l)recarious  aspect  and  verging  towards  that  war 
which  shortly  ,  ensued.  As .  a  precautionary 
measure,  therefore,  he  required  that  the  voy- 
ageurs,  as  they  were  about  to  enter  into  the 
service  of  an  American  association,  and  to  reside 
within  the  limits  of  the  United  States,  should 
take  the  oaths  of  naturalization  as  American 
citizens.  To  this  they  readily  agreed,  and 
shortly  afterward  assured  him  that  they  had 
actually  done  so.  It  was  not  until  after  they 
had  sailed  that  he  discovered  that  they  had 
entirely  deceived  him  in  the  matter. 

The  confidence  of  Mr.  Astor  was  abused  in 
another  quarter.  Two  of  the  partners,  both  of 
them  Scotchmen,  and  recently  in  the  service  of 
the  Northwest  Company,  had  misgivings  as  to  an 
enterprise  which  might  clash  with  the  interests 
and  establishments  protected  by  the  British  flag. 
They  privately  waited  upon  the  British  minister, 
Mr.  Jackson,  then  in  New  York,  laid  open  to  him 
the  whole  scheme  of  Mr.  Astor,  though  intrusted 
to  them  in  confidence,  and  dependent,  in  a  great 
measure,  upon  secrecy  at  the  outset  for  its  success, 
and  inquired  whether  they,  as  British  subjects, 
could  lawfully  engage  in  it.  The  reply  satisfied 
their  scruples,  while  the  information  they  im- 
parted excited  the  surprise  and  admiration  of  Mr. 


i 


A8 


ASTORIA, 


\\'X. 


Jackson,  that  a  private  individual  should  have 
conceived  and  set  on  foot  at  his  own  risk  and 
expense  so  great  an  enterprise. 

This  step  ou  the  part  of  those  gentlemen  was 
not  known  to  Mr.  Astor  until  some  time  after- 
wards, or  it  might  have  modified  the  trust  and 
confidence  reposed  in  them. 

To  guard  against  any  interruption  to  the 
voyage  by  the  armed  brig,  said  to  be  oflf*  the 
harbor,  Mr.  Astor  applied  to  Commodore 
liodgers,  at  that  time  commanding  at  New  York, 
to  give  the  Tonquin  safe  convoy  off  the  coast. 
The  commodore  having  received  from  a  high 
official  source  assurance  of  the  deep  interest 
which  the  government  took  in  the  enterprise, 
sent  directions  to  Captain  Hull,  at  that  time 
cruising  off  the  harbor,  in  the  frigate  Consti- 
tution,  to  afford  the  Tonquin  the  required  pro- 
tection when  she  should  put  to  sea. 

Before  the  day  of  embarkation,  Mr.  Astor 
addressed  a  letter  of  instruction  to  the  four 
partners  who  were  to  sail  in  the  ship.  In  this 
he  enjoined  them,  in  the  most  earnest  manner,  to 
cultivate  harmony  and  unanimity,  and  recom- 
mended that  all  differences  of  opinions  on  points 
connected  wit'u  the  objects  and  interests  of  the 
voyage  should  bo  discussed  by  the  whole,  and 
decided  by  a  majority  of  votes.  He,  moreover, 
gave  them  especial  caution  as  to  their  conduct  on 
arriving  at  their  destined  port;  exhorting  them 
t4>  be  careful  to  make  a  favorable  impression 
upon  the  wild  people  among  whom  their  lot  and 
tlie  fortunes  of  the  enterprise  would  be  cast.   "  If 


PARTING  ADMONITIONB. 


49. 


.8  tor 

Four 

ithis 

to 

>m- 

ints 

Ithe 

md 

rer, 

on 

jm 

[on 

iid 


you  find  them  kind,"  said  he,  ^  as  I  hope  you  will, 
be  so  to  them.  If  otherwise,  act  with  caution 
and  forbearance,  and  convince  them  that  you 
••ome  as  friends." 

With  the  same  anxious  forethought  he  wrote 
a  letter  of  instmctions  to  Captain  Thorn,  ia 
whicli  he  urged  the  strictest  attention  to  the 
liealth  of  himself  and  his  crew,. and  to  the  promo* 
tion  of  good-humor  and  harmony  on  board  his 
ship.  **To  prevent  any  misunderstanding," 
added  he,  "will  require  your  particular  good 
management"  His  letter  closed  with  an  in- 
junction of  wariness  in  his  intercourse  with  the 
natives,  a  spbject  on  which  Mr.  Astor  was  justly 
sensible  he  could  not  be  too  earnest.  "  I  must 
recommend  you,"  said  he,  "to  be  particularly 
careful  on  the  coast,  and  not  to  rely  too  much  on 
the  friendly  disposition  of  the  natives.  All  acci- 
dents which  have  as  yet  happened  there  arose 
from  too  much  confidence  in  the  Indians." 

The  reader  will  bear  these  instructions  in 
mind,  as  events  will  prove  their  wisdom  and  im- 
portance, and  the  disasters  which  ensued  in  oon* 
sequence  of  the  neglect  of  them. 


CHAPTER  V. 


(1 


^  the  eighth  of  September,  1810,  the 
Tonqnin  put  to  sea,  where  she  was 
soon  joined  by  the  frigate  Constitution. 
The  wind  was  fresh  and  fair  from  the  southwest, 
and  the  ship  was  soon  out  of  sight  of  land  and 
free  from  the  apprehended  danger  of  interruption. 
The  frigate,  therefore,  gave  her  "  God  speed," 
and  left  her  to  her  ooui*se. 

The  harmony  so  earnestly  enjoined  by  Mr. 
Afitor  on  this  heterogeneous  crew,  and  which 
had  been  so  confidently  promised  in  the  buoyant 
moments  of  preparation,  was  doomed  to  meet 
with  a  check  at  the  very  outset. 

Captain  Thorn  was  an  honest,  straightforward, 
but  somewhat  dry  and  dictatorial  commander, 
who^  having  been  nurtured  in  the  system  and 
discipline  of  a  ship  of  \Var,  and  in  a  sacred 
opinion  of  the  supremacy  of  the  quarter-deck, 
was  disposed  to  be  absolute  lord  and  master  on 
board  of  his  ship.  He  appears,  moreover,  to 
have  had  no  great  opinion,  from  the  first,  of  the 
persons  embarked  with  him.  He  had  stood  by 
with  surly  contempt  while  they  vaunted  so 
bravely  to  Mr.  Astor  of  all  they  could  do  and  all 
they  could  undergo ;  how  they  could  face  all 
weathers,    put    up    with  all    kinds  of  fare,    and 


CAPTAIN  DISAGREES   WITH  PARTNERS.    61 


even  eat  dogs  with  a  relif>h,  whe?i  no  better  food 
WHS  to  be  had.  He  had  net  them  down  as  a 
Bet  of  landlubbers  and  braggadocioH,  nnd  was  dis* 
|)Osed  to  treat  them  accordingly.  Mr.  Astor  was, 
ill  his  eyes,  his  only  real  employer,  bein^  the 
father  of  the  enterprise,  who  furnished  all  funds 
and  bore  all  losses.  The  others  were  mere  agents 
and  subordinates,  who  lived  at  his  expense.  He 
evidently  had  but  a  narrow  idea  of  the  scope 
and  nature  of  the  enterprise,  limiting  his  views 
merely  to  his  part  of  it ;  everything  beyond  the 
concerns  of  his  ship  was  out  of  his  sphere ;  and 
anything  that  interfered  with  the  routine  of  his 
nautical  duties  put  him  in  a  passion. 

The  partners,  on  the  other  hand,  had  been 
brought  up  in  the  service  of  the  Northwest  Com- 
pany, and  in  a  profound  idea  of  the  importance, 
dignity,  and  authority  of  a  partner.  They  al- 
ready began  to  consider  themselves  on  a  par 
with  the  M'Tavishes,  the  M'Gillivrays,  the  Fro- 
bishers,  and  the  other  magnates  of  the  Northwest, 
whom  they  had  been  accustomed  to  look  up  to  as 
the  great  ones  of  the  earth ;  and  they  were  a 
little  disposed,  perhaps,  to  wear  their  suddenly- 
acquired  honors  with  some  air  of  pretension. 
Mr.  Astor,  too,  had  put  them  on  t^  eir  mettle 
with  respect  to  the  captain,  describing  him  as  a 
gunpowder  fellow  who  would  command  his  ship 
in  fine  style,  and,  if  there  was  any  fighting  to 
do,  would  "  blow  all  out  of  the  water." 

Thus  prepared  to  regard  each  other  with  no 
very  cordial  eye,  it  is  not  to  be  wondered  at 
that  the  parties   soon  came   into  collision.     Oo 


I 


52 


ASTORIA. 


the  very  first  night  Captain  Thorn  began  his 
man-of-war  discipline  hy  ordering  the  lights  in 
tlie  cabin  to  be  extinguished  at  eight  o'clock. 

The  pi'ide  of  the  partners  was  iinmediately  in 
arms.  Tliis  was  an  invasion  of  their  rights  and 
dia;nities  not  to  be  borne.  Thev  were  on  board 
of  their  own  ship,  and  entitled  to  consult  their 
ease  and  enjoyment.  M'Dougal  was  the  cham- 
pion of  their  cause.  He  was  an  active,  irritable, 
fuming,  vainglorious  little  man,  and  elevated  in 
his  own  opinion,  by  being  the  proxy  of  Mr. 
Astor.  A  violent  altercation  ensued,  in  the 
course  of  which  Thorn  threatened  to  put  the 
partners  in  irons  should  they  prove  refractory; 
upon  which  M'Dougal  seized  a  pistol  and  swore 
to  be  the  death  of  the  captain  should  he  ever 
offer  such  an  indigni  y.  It  was  some  time  before 
the  irritated  parties  could  be  pacified  by  the  more 
temperate  bystanders. 

Such  was  the  captain's  outset  with  the  part- 
ners. Nor  did  the  clerks  stand  much  higher  in 
his  good  graces;  indeed,  he  seems  to  have  re- 
garded all  the  landsmen  on  board  his  ship  as  a 
kind  of  live  lumber,  continually  in  the  way. 
The  pocr  voyageurs,  too,  continually  irritated 
his  spleen  by  their  *'  lubberly  "  and  unseemly  hab- 
its, so  abhorrent  to  one  accustomed  to  the  clean- 
liness of  a  man-of-war.  These  poor  fresh-water 
sailors,  so  vainglorious  on  shore,  and  almost  am 
phibious  when  on  lakes  and  rivers,  lost  all  heart 
*nd  stomach  the  moment  they  were  at  sea.  For 
days  they  suffered  the  doleful  rigors  and  retch- 
ings  of    sea-sickness,    lurking    below    in    their 


LANDSMEN  AT  SEA, 


m 


berths  in  squalid  state,  or  emerging  now  and 
then  like  spectres  from  the  hatchways,  in  capotes 
and  blankets,  with  dirty  nightcaps,  grizzly  beard, 
lantern  visage  and  unhappy  eye,  shivering  about 
the  deck,  and  ever  and  anon  crawling  to  the 
sides  of  the  vessel,  and  offering  up  their  tributes 
to  the  windward,  to  the  inlinite  annoyance  of 
the  captain. 

His  letters  to  Mr.  Astor,  wherein  he  poura 
forth  the  bitterness  of  his  soul,  and  his  seaman- 
like impatience  of  what  he  considers  the  "/m^- 
herly"  character  and  conduct  of  those  around 
him,  are  before  us,  and  are  amusingly  character- 
istic. The  honest  captain  is  full  of  vexation  on 
his  own  account,  and  solicitude  on  account  of 
Mr.  Astor,  whose  property  he  considers  at  the 
mercy  of  a  most  heterogeneous  and  wasteful 
crew. 

As  to  the  clerks,  he  pronounced  them  mere 
pretenders,  not  one  of  whom  had  ever  been 
among  the  Indians,  nor  farther  to  the  northwest 
than  Montreal,  nor  of  higher  rank  than  bar- 
keeper of  a  tavern  or  marker  of  a  billiard-table, 
excepting  one,  who  had  been  a  school-master,  and 
whom  he  emphatically  sets  down  for  "  as  foolish 
a  pedant  as  ever  lived." 

Then  as  to  the  artisans  and  laborers  who  had 
been  brought  from  Canada  and  shipped  at  such 
expense,  the  three  most  respectable,  according  to 
the  captain's  account,  were  culprits,  who  had  fled 
fram  Canada  on  account  of  their  misdeeds ;  the 
rest  had  figured  in  Montreal  as  draymen,  barbers, 
waiters,  and  carriole  drivers,  and  were  the  most 


H 


ASTORIA. 


helpless,  worthless  beings  '*  that  ever  broke  8ea> 
biscuit." 

It  may  easily  be  imagined  what  a  series  of 
misunderstandings  and  cross-purposes  would  be 
likely  to  take  place  between  such  a  crew  and 
such  a  commander.  The  captain,  in  his  zeal 
for  the  health  and  cleanliness  of  his  ship,  would 
make  sweeping  visitations  to  the  "  lubber  nests  " 
of  the  unlucky  "  voyageurs  "  and  their  compan- 
ions in  misery,  ferret  them  out  of  their  berths, 
make  them  air  and  wash  laemselves  and  their 
accoutrements,  and  oblige  them  to  stir  about 
briskly  and  take  exercise. 

Nor  did  his  disgust  and  vexation  cease  when 
all  hands  had  recovered  from  sea-sickness,  and 
become  accustomed  to  the  ship,  for  now  broke 
out  an  alarming  keenness  of  appetite  that  threat- 
ened havoc  to  the  provisions.  What  especially 
irritated  the  captain  was  the  daintiness  of  some 
of  his  cabin  passengers.  They  were  loud  in 
their  complaints  of  the  ship's  fare,  though  their 
table  was  served  with  fresh  pork,  hams,  tongues, 
smoked  beef,  and  puddings.  *'  When  thwarted  in 
their  cravings  for  delicacies,"  said  he,  "  they  would 
exclaim  it  was  d — d  hard  they  could  not  live  as 
they  pleased  upon  their  own  property,  being  on 
board  of  their  own  ship,  freighted  with  their  own 
merchandise.  And  these,"  added  he,  "  are  the 
fine  fellows  who  made  such  boast  that  they  conld 
'  eat  dogs. ' " 

In  his  indignation  at  what  he  termed  their  effem- 
inacy, he  would  swear  that  he  would  never  take 
ihej;n  to  sea  again  "  without  having  Fly-market 


>.*> 


A    VETERAN  FROM  LABRADOR, 


9k 


on    the   forecastle,  Covent -garden  on  the    poop, 
and  a  cool  spring  from  Canada  in  the  maintop^./'/ 

As  they  proceeded  on  their  voyage  and  g6t 
into  the  smooth  seas  and  pleasant  weather  of 
the  tropics,  other  annoyances  occurred  to  vex 
the  spirit  of  the  captain.  He  had  been  crossed 
by  the  irritable  mood  of  one  of  the  partners ; 
he  was  now  excessively  annoyed  by  the  good-* 
humor  of  another.  This  was  the  elder  Stuart, 
who  was  an  easy  soul,  and  of  a  social  disposition. 
He  had  seen  life  in  Canada,  and  on  the  coast  of 
Labrador ;  had  been  a  fur  trader  in  the  former, 
and  a  fisherman  on  tiie  latter ;  and,  in  the  course 
jf  his  experience,  had  made  various  expeditions 
with  voyageurs.  He  was  accustomed,  therefore, 
to  the  familiarity  which  prevails  between  thai 
class  and  their  superiors,  and  the  gossipings 
which  take  place  among  them  when  seated  round 
a  fire  at  their  encampments.'  Stuart  was  never 
so  happy  as  when  he  could  seat  himself  on  th^ 
deck  with  a  number  of  these  men  round  him,  in 
camping  style,  smoke  together,  passing  the  pipe 
from  mouth  to  mouth,  after  the  manner  of  the 
Indians,  sing  old  Canadian  boat-songs,  and  teli 
stories  about  their  hardships  and  adventures,  in 
the  course  of  which  he  rivaled  Sinbad  in  his  long 
tales  of  the  sea,  about  his  fishing  exploits  on  th^ 
wast  of  Labrador. 

This  gossiping  familiarity  shocked  the  cap- 
tain's notions  of  rank  and  subordination,  and 
nothing  was  so  abhorrent  to  him  as  the  commu- 
aity  of  pipe  between  master  and  man,  and  theil 
miuirling  in  chorus  in  the  outlandish  boat-sougs. 


56 


ASTORIA. 


Theu  there  was  another  whimsical  source  of 
aiinojance  to  him.  Some  of  the  young  clerks, 
who  were  making  their  first  voyage,  and  to 
whom  everything  was  new  and  strange,  were, 
very  rationally,  in  the  habit  of  taking  notes  and 
keeping  journals.  This  was  a  sor«3  abomination 
to  the  honest  captain,  who  held  their  literary 
pretensions  in  great  contempt.  "The  collecting 
of  materials  for  long  histories  of  their  voyages 
and  travels, "  said  he,  in  his  letter  to  Mr.  Astor, 
*' appears  to  engross  most  of  their  attention." 
We  can  conceive  what  must  have  been  the 
crusty  impatience  of  the  worthy  navigator,  when, 
on  any  trifling  occurrence  in  the  course  of  the 
voyage,  quite  commonplace  in  his  eyes,  he  saw 
these  young  landsmen  running  to  record  it  in 
their  journals ;  and  what  indignant  glances  he 
must  have  cast  to  right  and  left,  as  he  worried 
about  the  deck,  giving  out  Lis  orders  for  the 
management  of  tiie  ship,  surrounded  by  singing, 
smoking,  gossiping,  scribbling  groups,  all,  ts  he 
thought,  intent  upon  the  amusement  of  the  pass- 
ing hour,  instead  of  the  great  purposes  and  in- 
terests of  the  voyage. 

It  is  possible  the  captain  was  in  some  degree 
right  in  his  notions.  Though  some  of  the  pas- 
sengers had  much  to  gain  by  the  voyage,  none 
of  them  had  anything  positively  to  lose.  They 
were  mostly  youn.j  men,  in  the  heyday  of  life ; 
and  having  got  intc  lln-i  latitudes,  upon  smooth 
seas,  with  a  well-store  I  ship  under  them,  and  a 
fair  wind  in  the  s*hou!vit;i  «>i  the  sail,  they  ^^oemed 
(o  have  got  into  a  ho^'lv'   \\orld,  and  were  dia- 


CURIOVa   TRAVELLERS. 


57 


poeed'to  enjoy  it.  That  craving  desire,  natural 
to  untravelled  noeu  of  fresh  and  lively  minds,  to 
Bee  strange  lands,  and  to  visit  scenes  famous  in 
history  or  fable,  was  expressed  by  some  of  the 
partners  and  clerks,  with  respect  to  some  of  the 
storied  coasts  and  islands  that  lay  within  their 
route.  The  captain,  however,  who  regarded 
every  coast  and  island  with  a  matter-of-fact  eye, 
and  had  no  more  associations  connected  with 
them  than  those  laid  down  in  his  sea-chart,  con- 
sidered all  this  curiosity  as  exceedingly  idle  and 
childish  "  In  the  first  part  of  the  voyage,"  says 
he  In  \\^  letter,  "they  were  determined  to  have 
it  said  they  had  been  in  Africa,  and  therefore 
insiflt^jd  on  my  stopping  at  the  Cape  de  Verds. 
Next  »})ey  said  the  ship  should  stop  on  the  coast 
of  F  •  igonJa,  for  they  must  see  the  large  and 
!)common  inhabitants  of  that  place.  Then 
they  must  go  to  the  island  where  Robinson  Cru- 
soe had  so  long  lived.  And  lastly,  they  were 
deternuned  to  see  the  handsome  inhabitants  of 
Easter  Island." 

To  all  these  resolves  the  captain  opposed  hia 
peremptory  veto,  as  "  contrary  to  instructions.** 
Then  would  break  forth  an  unavailing  explosion 
of  wrath  on  the  part  of  certain  of  the  partners, 
in  the  course  of  which  they  did  not  even  spare 
Mr.  Astor  for  his  act  of  supererogation  in  fur- 
nishing orders  for  the  control  of  the  ship  while 
they  were  on  board,  instead  of  leaving  them  to  be 
the  judges  where  it  would  be  best  for  her  to 
touch,  and  how  long  to  remain.  The  choleric 
M'Dougai  took  the  lead  ia  these  railings,  being, 


I!  ,. 


|l   ' 


m 


^?'v 


■■;; 


;i 


AS TORI  J 


as  ha*)  been  observed,  a  little  puffed  up  with  tUe 
idea  of  being  Mr.  Astor's  proxy. 

The  captain,  however,  became  only  so  much 
the  more  crusty  and  dogged  in  his  adherence  to 
his  orders,  and  toucliy  and  harsh  in  his  dealings 
with  his  passengers,  and  frequent  altercations 
ensued.  He  may  in  some  measure  have  been  in- 
fluenced by  his  seamanlike  impatience  of  the 
interference  of  landsmen,  and  liis  high  notions 
of  naval  etiquette  and  quarter-deck  authority ; 
but  he  evidently  had  an  honest,  trusty  concern 
for  the  interests  of  his  employer.  He  pictured  to 
himself  the  anxious  projector  of  the  enterprise, 
who  had  disbursed  so  munificently  in  its  outfit, 
calculating  on  the  zeal,  fidelity,  and  singleness  of 
purpose  of  his  associ:ites  and  ??.genls  ;  while  they, 
on  the  other  hand,  having  a  gocil  ship  at  their 
disposal,  and  a  deep  pocket  at  home  to  bear  them 
out,  aeemej  ready  to  loiter  on  every  coa8  ^  and 
amuse  themselves  in  every  port. 

On  the  fourth  of  December  they  tame  in  sight 
of  the  Falkland  Islands.  Having  been  for  some 
time  on  an  allowance  of  water,  it  was  resolved  to 
anchor  here  and  obtain  a  oupply.  A  boat  was 
sent  into  a  ^mall  bay  to  take*  soundings.  Mr. 
M'Dougal  and  Mr.  M'Kay  took  this  occasion  to 
go  on  shore,  but  with  a  request  from  the  captain 
that  they  would  not  detain  the  ship.  Once  on 
shore,  however,  they  were  in  no  haste  to  obey  his 
orders,  but  rambled  about  in  search  of  curiosities. 
The  anchorage  proving  unsafe,  and  water  difficult 
to  be  procured,  the  captain  stood  out  to  sea,  and 
made  repeated  signals  for  those  on  shore  to  rejoin 


SPORTSMEN  IN  THE  LURCH, 


59 


the  ship  but  it  was  not  until  nine  at  night  that 
they  came  on  board. 

The  wind  being  adverse,  the  boat  was  again 
sent  on  shore  on  the  following  morning,  and  the 
same  g^mtlemen  again  landed,  but  promised  to 
come  otf  at  a  moment's  warning ;  they  again 
forgot  their  promise  in  their  eager  pursuit  of  wild 
geese  and  sea-wolves.  After  a  time  the  wind 
hauled  fair,  and  signals  were  made  for  the  boat. 
Half  an  hour  elapsed  but  no  boat  put  off.  The 
captain  reconnoitred  the  shore  with  his  glass, 
and,  to  bis  inBnite  vexation,  saw  the  loiterers  in 
the  full  enjoyment  of  their  "  wild-goose-chase." 
Nettled  to  the  quick,  he  immediately  made  sail. 
When  those  on  shore  saw  the  ship  actually  under 
way,  they  embarked  with  all  speed,  but  had  a 
hard  pull  of  eigiit  miles  before  they  got  on  board, 
and  then  experienced  but  a  grim  reception,  not- 
withstanding that  they  came  well  laden  with  the 
spoils  of  the  chase. 

Two  days  afterwards,  on '  the  seventh  of  De* 
cember,  they  anchored  at  Fort  Egmont,  in  the 
same  island,  where  they  remained  four  days 
taking  in  water  and  making  repairs.  This  was  a 
joyous  time  for  the  landsmen.  They  pitched  a 
tent  on  sliore,  had  a  boat  at  their  command,  and 
passed  their  time  merrily  in  rambling  about  the 
island,  and  coasting  along  the  shores,  shooting 
sea-lions,  seals,  foxes,  geese,  ducks,  and  penguins. 
None  were  keener  in  pursuit  of  this  kind  of 
game  than  M'Dougal  and  David  Stuart ;  the  lat- 
ter was  reminded  of  aquatic  sports  on  the  coast 
Df  Labrador,  and  lis  hunting  exploits  in  the 
Northwest. 


eo 


AST OBI  J 


In  the  meantime  the  captain  addressed  himself 
steadily  to  the  business  of  his  ship,  scorning  the 
holiday  spirit  and  useless  pursuits  of  his  emanci- 
pated messmates,  and  warning  them,  from  time 
to  time,  not  to  wander  away  nor  be  out  of  hail. 
They  promised,  as  usual»  that  the  ship  should 
never  experience  a  "loment's  detention  on  their 
account,  but,  as  usuai,  forgot  their  promise. 

On  the  morning  of  the  11th,  the  repairs  being 
all  finished,  and  the  water  casks  replenished,  the 
signal  was  given  to  embaik,  and  the  ship  began 
to  weigh  anchor.  At  this  time  several  of  the 
passengers  were  dispersed  about  the  island, 
amusing  '^emselves  in  various  ways.  Some  of 
the  young  men  had  found  two  inscriptions,  in 
English,  over  a  place  where  two  unfortunate 
mariners  had  been  buried  in  this  desert  island. 
As  the  inscriptions  were  nearly  worn  out  by  time 
and  weather,  they  were  playing  the  part  of  "Old 
Mortality,"  and  piously  rcLtwing  them.  The 
signal  from  the  ship  summoned  them  from  their 
labors  ;  they  saw  the  sails  unfurled,  and  that  she 
was  getting  under  way.  The  two  sportiiig  part- 
ners, however,  Mr.  M'Dougal  and  David  Stuart, 
had  strolled  away  to  the  south  of  the  island  in 
pursuit  of  penguins.  It  would  never  do  to  put 
off  without  them,  as  there  was  but  one  boat  to 
convey  the  whole. 

While  this  delay  took  place  on  shore,  the  cap- 
tain was  storming  on  board.  This  was  the  third 
time  his  orders  had  been  treated  with  contempt, 
and  the  ship  wantonly  detained,  and  it  should  be 
the  lust;  so  he  spread  all  sail  and  put    to  sea, 


CAPTAIN'S   THREAT. 


61 


Bwearing  he  would  leave  the  laggards  to  shift  for 
themselves.  It  was  in  vain  that  those  on  board 
made  remonstrances  and  entreaties,  and  repre- 
sented the  horrors  of  abandoning  men  upon  a 
sterile  and  uninhabited  island  ;  the  sturdy  captain 
was  inflexible. 

In  the  meantime  the  penguin  hunters  had 
joined  the  engravers  of  tombstones,  but  not  be- 
foi'e  the  ship  was  already  out  at  sea.  They  all, 
to  tlie  number  of  eight,  threw  themselves  into 
their  boat,  which  was  about  twenty  feet  in  length, 
and  rowed  with  might  and  main.  For  three 
hours  and  a  half  did  they  tug  anxiously  and 
severely  at  the  oar,  swashed  occasionally  by  the 
surging  waves  of  the  open  sea,  while  the  ship 
inexorably  kept  on  her  course,  and  seemed  deter- 
mined to  leave  them  behind. 

On  board  of  the  ship  was  the  nephew  of  David 
Stuart,  a  young  man  of  spirit  and  resolution. 
Seeing,  as  he  thought,  the  captain  obstinately 
bent  upon  abandoning  his  uncle  and  the  others, 
he  seized  a  pistol,  and  in  a  paroxysm  of  wrath 
swore  he  would  blow  out  the  captain's  brains, 
unleSvS  he  put  about  or  shortened  sail. 

Fortunately  for  all  parties,  the  wind  just  then 
came  ahead,  md  the  boat  was  enabled  to  reach 
the  ship ;  otherwise,  disastrous  circumstances 
might  have  ensued.  We  can  hardly  believe  that 
the  captain  really  intended  to  carry  his  threat 
into  full  effect,  and  rather  think  he  meant  to  let 
the  laggards  off  for  a  long  pull  and  a  hearty 
fright.  lie  declared,  however,  in  his  letter  to 
Mr.  Astnr,  that  he  was  serious  in  his  threats 


i 


ASTORIA, 


find  there  is  no  knowing  how  far  such  an  iron 
man  may  push  his  notions  of  auttiority. 

"  Had  tlie  wind,"  writes  he,  *'  (unfortunately) 
not  hauled  ahead  soon  after  leaving  the  harbor's 
mouth,  I  should  positively  have  left  them  ;  and, 
indeed,  I  cannot  but  think  it  an  unfortunate  cir- 
cumstance for  you  that  it  so  happened,  for  tl  e 
Hrst  loss  in  this  instance  would,  in  my  opinion, 
have  proved  the  best,  as  they  seem  to  have  no 
idea  of  the  value  of  property,  nor  any  apparent 
regard  for  your  interest,  although  interwoven 
with  their  own." 

This,  it  must  be  confessed,  was  acting  with  a 
high  hand,  and  carrying  a  regard  to  the  owner's 
property  to  a  dangerous  length.  Various  petty 
feuds  occurred  also  between  him  and  the  partners 
in  respect  to  the  goods  on  board  the  ship,  some 
articles  of  which  they  wished  to  distribute  for 
clothing  among  the  men,  or  for  other  purposes 
which  they  deemed  essential.  The  captain,  how- 
ever, kept  a  mastiff  watch  upon  the  cargo,  and 
growled  and  snapped  if  they  but  offered  to  touch 
box  or  bale.  "  It  was  Contrary  to  orders ;  it 
would  forfeit  his  insurance;  it  was  out  of  all 
rule."  It  was  in  vain  they  insisted  upon  their 
right  to  do  so,  as  part  owners,  and  as  acting  for 
the  good  of  the  enterprise  ;  the  captain  only  stuck 
to  his  point  the  more  stanchly.  They  consoled 
themselves,  therefore,  by  declaring,  that  as  soon 
as  they  made  land,  they  would  assert  their  rights, 
and  do  with  ship  and  cargo  as  they  pleased. 

Beside  these  feuds  between  the  captain  and 
the  partners,  there  were  feuds  between  the  part- 


ARRIVAL  AT  OWYHEEL 


68 


ncrs  themselves,  occasioned,  in  8orae  measure,  by 
jealousy  ot'  rank.  M'Dougal  and  M'Kay  began 
to  draw  plans  for  the  fort,  and  other  buildings  of 
th'e  intended  establishment.  They  agreed  very 
well  as  to  the  outline  and  dimensions,  which 
were  on  a  sufficiently  grand  scale ;  but  when 
lliey  came  to  arrange  the  details,  fierce  disputes 
nrose,  and  they  would  quarrel  by  the  hour  about 
the  distribution  of  the  doors  and  windows. 
Many  were  the  hard  words  and  hard  names  ban- 
died between  them  on  these  occasions,  according 
to  the  captain's  account.  Each  accused  the 
other  of  endeavoring  to  assume  unwarrantable 
power,  and  take  the  lead  ;  upon  which  Mr, 
M'Dougal  would  tauntingly  lay  down  Mr. 
Astor's  letter,  constituting  him  his  representative 
and  proxy,  a  document  not  to  be  disputed. 

These  wordy  contests,  though  violent,  were 
brtcf;  "and  within  fifteen  minutes,"  says  the 
captain,  "  they  would  be  caressing  each  other 
like  children." 

While  all  this  petty  anarchy  was  agitating  the 
little  world  within  the  Tonquin,  the  good  ship 
prosperously  pursued  her  course,  doubled  Cape 
Horn  on  the  25th  of  December,  careered  across 
the  bosom  of  the  Pacific,  until,  on  the  11th  of 
February,  the  snowy  peaks  of  Owyhee  were  seeo 
brightenicg  above  the  horizon. 


^    ^  ^  ^r. 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
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Sdences 
Corporation 


23  WeST  MAIN  STREET 

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'^^ 


CHAPTER  VI. 


[WTHEE,  or  Hawaii,  as  it  is  written 
by  more  exact  orthographers,  is  the 
largest  of  the  cluster,  ten  in  number, 
of  the  Sandwich  Islands.  It  is  about  ninety- 
seven  miles  in  length,  and  seventy-eight  in 
breadth,  rising  gradually  into  three  pyramidal 
summits  or  cones ;  the  highest,  Mouna  Roa, 
being  eignteen  thousand  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  sea,  so  as  to  domineer  over  the  whole  archi- 
pelago, andi  to  be  a  landmark  over  a  wide  extent 
of  ocean.  It  remains  a  lasting  monument  of  the 
enterprising  and  unfortunate  Captain  Cook,  w)io 
was  murdered  by  the  natives  of  this  island. 

The  Sandwich  Islanders,  when  first  discovered, 
evinced  a  character  superior  to  most  of  the 
savages  of  the  Pacific  isles.  They  were  frank 
and  open  in  their  deportment,  friendly  and  liberal 
in  their  dealings,  with  an  apt  ingenuity  apparent 
in  all  their  rude  inventions. 

The  tragical  fate  of  the  discoverer,  which,  for 
ti  time,  brought  them  under  the  charge  of 
ferocity,  was,  in  fact,  the  result  of  sudden  ex- 
asperation, caused  by  the  seizure  of  their  chief. 

At  the  time  of  the  visit  of  the  Tonquin,  the 
islanders  had  profited,  in  many  respects,  by  occa- 
sional   intercourse    with    white    men ;   and    had 


TA MAAHMAAH.  —  HIS  NA  VT. 


65 


dhown  a  qi^ickness  to  observe  and  cultivate  those 
arts  important  to  their  mode  of  living.  Origin- 
ally they  had  no  means  of  navigating  the  seas  by 
which  they  were  surrounded,  superior  to  light 
pirogues,  which  were  little  competent  to  contend 
with  the  storms  of  the  broad  ocean.  As  the 
islanders  are  not  in  sight  of  each  other,  there 
could,  therefore,  be  but  casual  intercourse  between 
them.  The  traffic  with  white  men  had  put  them 
in  possession  of  vessels  of  superior  description; 
they  had  made  themselves  acquainted  with  their 
management,  and  had  even  made  rude  advances 
in  the  art  of  ship-building. 

These  improvements  had  been  promoted,  in  a 
grei»t  measure,  by  the  energy  and  sagacity  of  one 
man,  the  famous  Tamaahmaah.  He  had  origi- 
nally been  a  petty  eri,  or  chief;  but,  being  of  an 
intrepid  and  aspiring  nature,  he  had  risen  in 
rank,  and,  availing  himself  of  the  superior  ad- 
vantages now  afforded  in  navigation,  had  brought 
the  whole  archipelago  in  subjection  to  his  arms. 
At  the  time  of  the  arrival  of  the  Tonquin  he 
had  about  forty  schooners,  of  from  twenty  to 
thirty  tons  burden,  and  one  old  American  ship. 
With  these  he  held  undisputed  sway  over  his 
insular  domainal,  and  carried  on  intercourse  with 
the  chiefs  or  governors  whom  he  had  placed  in 
command  of  the  several  islands. 

The  situation  of  this  group  of  islands,  far  in 
the  bosom  of  the  vast  Pacific,  and  their  abund- 
ant fertility,  render  them  important  stopping- 
places  on  the  highway  to  China,  or  to  the  north- 
west coast  of  America.  Here  the  vessels  en- 
6 


66 


ASTORIA. 


gngfed  in  the  fur  trade  touched  to  make  repAin 
mid  procure  provisions ;  and  here  they  often 
sheltered  themselves  during  the  winters  that 
occurred  in  their  long  coasting  expeditious. 

The  British  navigators  were,  from  the  first, 
HWare  of  the  value  of  these  islands  to  the  pur- 
f)oses  of  commerce ;  and  Tamaahmaah,  not  long 
lifter  he  had  attained  the  sovereign  sway,  was 
persuaded  by  Vancouver,  the  celebrated  discov- 
erer, to  acknowledge,  on  behalf  of  himself  and 
i^ubjects,  allegiance  to  the  king  of  Great  Britain. 
The  reader  cannot  but  call  to  mind  the  visit 
which  the  royal  family  and  court  of  the  Sand* 
wioh  Islands  was,  in  late  years,  induced  to  make 
to  the  court  of  St.  James ;  and  the  serio-comic 
ceremonials  and  mock  parade  which  attended  that 
singular  travesty  of  monarchal  style. 

It  was  a  part  of  the  wide  and  comprehensive 
plan  of  Mr.  Astor  to  establish  a  friendly  inter- 
course between  these  islands  and  his  intended 
colony,  which  might,  for  a  time,  have  occasion  to 
draw  supplies  thence;  and  he  even  had  a  vague 
idea  of,  some  time  or  other,  getting  possession  of 
one  of  their  islands  as  a  rendezvous  for  his  ships, 
and  a  link  in  the  chain  of  his  commercial  estab- 
lishments. • 

On  the  evening  of  the  12th  of  February,  the 
Tonquiu  anchored  in  the  bay  of  Karakakooa, 
in  the  island  of  Owyhee.  The  surrounding! 
shores  were  wild  and  broken,  with  overhanging 
cliffy  and  precipices  of  black  volcanic  rock. 
Beyond  these,  however,  the  country  was  fertile 
Mid   if€ll   cultivated,    with   inclcsures   of  yamty 


WOAHOO.  —  ROYAL  MONOPOL Y. 


67 


plantains,  sweet  potatoes,  sugar-canes,  and  i^ther 
productions  of  warm  climates  and  teeming  soils; 
and  the  numerous  habitations  of  the  natives  were 
pleasantly  sheltered  beneath  clumps  of  cocoanut 
and  bread-fruit  trees,  which  afforded  both  food 
and  shade.  This  mingled  variety  of  garden  and 
grove  swept  gradually  up  the  sides  of  the  moun- 
tains, until  succeeded  by  dense  forests,  which  in 
turn  gave  place  to  naked  and  craggy  rocks,  until 
the  summits  rose  into  the  regions  of  perpetual 

BIIOW. 

The  royal  residence  of  Tamaahmaah  was  at 
this  time  at  another  island  named  Woahoo.  The 
island  of  Owyhee  was  under  the  command  of  one 
of  his  eries,  or  chiefs,  who  resided  at  the  village 
of  Tocaigh,  situated  on  a  different  part  of  the 
coast  from  the  bay  of  Karakakooa. 

On  the  morning  after  her  arrival,  the  ship  was 
surrounded  by  canoes  and  pirogues,  filled  with 
the  islanders  of  both  sexes,  bringing  off  supplies 
of  fruits  and  vegetables,  bananas,  plantains,  water- 
melons, yams,  cabbages,  and  taro.  The  captain 
was  desirous,  however,  of  purchasing  a  number 
of  hogs,  but  there  were  none  to  be  had.  The 
trade  in  pork  was  a  royal  monopoly,  and  no  sub- 
ject of  the  great  Tamaahmaah  dared  to  meddle 
with  it.  S^uch  provi.sions  as  they  could  furnish, 
liowever,  were  brought  by  the  natives  in*  abund- 
ance, and  a  lively  intercourse  was  kept  up  during 
the  day,  in  which  the  women  mingled  in  the  kind- 
est manner. 

The  islanders  are  a  comely  race,  of  a  copper 
x>mplexiou.     The  men  are  tall  and  well  made* 


68 


ASTORIA. 


with  forms  indicating  strength  and  acti'vitj;  the 
women  with  regular  and  occasionally  handsome 
features,  and  a  lascivious  expression,  character- 
istic of  their  temperament.  Their  style  of  dress 
was  nearly  the  same  as  in  the  days  of  Captain 
Cook.  The  men  wore  the  maro,  a  band  one  foot 
in  width  and  several  feet  in  length,  swathed 
i*ound  the  loins,  and  formed  of  tappa,  or  cloth  of 
bark ;  the  kihei,  or  mantle,  about  six  feet  square, 
tied  in  a  knot  over  one  shoulder,  passed  under  the 
opposite  arm,  so  as  to  leave  it  bare,  and  falling  in 
graceful  folds  before  and  behind,  to  the  knee,  so 
as  to  bear  some  resemblance  to  a  Roman  toga. 

The  female  dress  consisted  of  the  pau,  a  gar- 
ment formed  of  a  piece  of  tappa,  several  yards 
in  length  and  one  in  width,  wrapped  round  the 
waist,  and  reaching  like  a  petticoat,  to  the  knees. 
Over  this  a  kihei  or  mantle,  larger  than  that  of 
the  men,  sometimes  worn  over  both  shoulders, 
like  a  shawl,  sometimes  over  one  only.  These 
mantles  were  seldom  worn  by  either  sex  during 
the  heat  of  the  day,  when  the  exposure  of  their 
persons  was  at  first  very  revolting  to  a  civilized 
eye. 

Towards  evening  several  of  the  partners  and 
clerks  went  on  shore,  where  they  were  well  re- 
ceived and  hospitably  entertained.  A  dance  was 
perfo/med  for  their  amusement,  in  which  nineteen 
young  women  and  one  man  figured  very  grace- 
fully, singing  in  concert,  and  moving  to  the  ca- 
dence of  their  song.  ^ 

All  this,  however,  was  nothing  to  the  purpose 
in  the  eyes  of  Captain  Thorn,  who,  being  disap* 


ENTHUSIASM  AT  OWYHEE, 


69 


so 


sed 


>se 
ap- 


pointed in  his  hope  of  obtaining  a  supply  of  pork, 
or  finding  good  water,  was  anxious  to  be  off. 
This  it  was  not  so  easy  to  effect.  The  passen- 
gers, once  on  shore,  were  disposed,  as  usual,  to 
profit  by  the  occasion.  The  partners  had  many 
inquiries  to  make  relative  to  the  island,  with  a 
view  to  business ;  while  the  young  clerks  were 
delighted  with  the  charms  and  graces  of  the  danc- 
ing damsels. 

To  add  to  their  gratifications,  an  old  man 
offered  to  conduct  them  to  the  spot  where  Cap- 
tain Cook  was  massacred.  The  proposition  was 
eagerly  accepted,  and  all  hands  set  out  on  a 
pilgrimage  to  the  place.  The  veteran  islander 
performed  his  promise  faithfully,  and  pointed 
out  the  very  spot  where  the  unfortunate  discov- 
erer fell.  The  rocks  and  cocoa-trees  around 
bore  record  of  the  fact,  in  the  marks  of  the  balls 
fired  from  the  boats  upon  the  savages.  The 
pilgrims  gathered  round  the  old  man,  and  drew 
from  him  all  the  particulars  he  had  to  relate  re- 
specting this  memorable  event ;  while  the  honest 
captain  stood  by  and  bit  his  nails  with  impa- 
tience. To  add  to  his  vexation,  they  employed 
themselves  in  knocking  off  pieces  of  the  rocks, 
and  cutting  off"  the  bark  of  the  trees  marked  by 
the  balls,  which  they  conveyed  back  to  the  ship 
«8  precious  relics. 

Right  glad,  therefore,  was  he  to  get  them  and 
Iheir  treasures  fairly  on  board,  when  he  made 
tail  from  this  unprofitable  place,  and  steered  for 
the  Bay  of  Tocaigh,  the  residence  of  the  chief 
3r  governor  of  the  island,  where  he  hoped  to  ba 


70 


ASTORIA 


more  successful  in  obtHiniiig  supplies.  On  com* 
ing  to  anchor  tiie  captain  went  on  shore,  accom- 
panied by  Mr.  M'Dougal  and  Mr.  M'Kay,  and 
paid  a  visit  to  the  governor.  This  dignitary 
proved  to  be  an  old  sailor^  by  the  name  of  John 
Young;  who,  after  being  tossed  about  the  seas 
like  another  Sindbad,  bad,  by  one  of  the  whimsi- 
cal freaks  of  fortune,  been  elevated  to  the  gov- 
ernment of  a  savage  island.  He  received  his 
visitors  with  more  hearty  familiarity  than  per- 
sonages in  his  high  station  are  apt  to  indulge, 
but  soon  gave  them  to  understand  that  provi- 
sion^ were  scanty  at  Tocaigh,  and  that  there  was 
no  good  water,  no  rain  having  fallen  in  the  neigh* 
borhood  in  three  years. 

Ts/%  captain  was  immediately  for  breaking  up 
f h  ^  t^  inference  and  departing,  but  the  partners 
Wore  not  so  willing  to  part  with  the  nautical 
governor,  who  seemed  disposed  to  be  extremely 
communicative,  and  from  whom  they  might  be 
able  to  procure  some  useful  information.  A  long 
conversation. accordingly  ensued,  in  tlie  course  of 
which  they  made  many  inquiries  about  the  af- 
fairs of  the  islands,  their  natural  productions,  and 
the  possibility  of  turning  them  to  advantage  in  the 
way  of  trade ;  nor  did  they  fail  to  inquire  into 
the  individual  history  of  John  Young,  and  how 
he  came  to  be  governor.  This  he  gave  with  great 
condescension,  running  through  the  whole  ccur!>ti 
of  his  fortunes  '^  even  from  his  boyish  days.** 

He  was  a  native  of  Liverpool,  in  England, 
iind  had  followed  the  sea  from  boyhood,  until,  by 
dint  of    ^ood  conduct,  he  had   risen   so   far  ia 


STORY  OF   THE  GOVERNOR, 


Tl 


'    ii 


>ti 


m 


lis  profession  as  to  be  boatswain  of  an  Amer- 
lean  ship  called  the  Eleanor,  commanded  by  Cap- 
tain Met  calf.  In  this  vessel  he  had  sailed  in  1789, 
on  one  of  those  casual  expeditions  to  the  north- 
west coast,  in  quest  of  furs.  In  the  course  of 
the  vojage,  the  captain  left  a  small  schooner, 
named  the  Fair  American,  at  Nootka,  with  a 
crew  of  five  men,  commanded  by  his  son,  a  youth 
of  eighteen.  She  was  to  follow  on  in  the  track 
of  the  Eleanor. 

In  February,  1790,  Captain  Metcalf  touched 
at  the  island  of  Mowee,  one  of  the  Sandwich 
group.  While  anchored  here,  a  boat  which  was 
astern  of  the  Eleanor  was  stolen,  and  a  seaman 
who  was  in  it  was  killed.  The  natives,  gener- 
ally, disclaimed  the  outrage,  and  brought  the 
shattered  remains  of  the  boat  and  the  dead  body 
of  the  seaman  to  the  ship.  Supporting  that  they 
had  thus  appeased  the  anger  of  the  captain,  they 
thronged,  as  usual,  in  great  numbers  about  the 
vessel,  to  trade.  Captain  Metcalf,  however,  de» 
termined  on  a  bloody  revenge.  The  Eleanor 
mounted  ten  guns.  AH  these  he  ordered  to  be 
loaded  with  musket-balls,  nails,  and  pieces  of  old 
iron,  and  then  fired  them,  and  the  small  arras  of 
the  ship,  among  the  natives.  The  havoc  was 
dreadful;  more  than  a  hundred,  according  to 
Young's  account,  were  slain. 

After  this  signal  act  of  vengeance.  Captain 
Metcalf  sailed  from  Mowee,  and  made  for  the 
island  of  Owyhee,  where  he  was  well  received 
by  Tamaahmaah.  The  fortunes  of  this  warlike 
ehief  wer^  at  that   time  on  the   rise.     He  had 


72 


A8TC  RJA. 


originally  been  of  inferior  rank,  ruling  over  only 
one  or  two  districts  of  Owyhee,  but  had  grad- 
ually made  himself  sovereign  of  his  native  island 

The  Eleanor  remained  some  few  days  at  an- 
chor here,  and  an  apparently  friendly  intercourse 
was  kept  up  with  the  inhabitants.  On  the  17tb 
March,  John  Young  obtained  permission  to  pass 
the  night  on  shore.  On  the  following  morning 
a  signal-gun  summoned  him  to  return  on  board. 

He  went  to  the  shore  to  embark,  but  found 
all  the  canoes  hauled  up  on  the  beach  and  rig- 
orously tabooed,  or  interdicted.  He  would  have 
launched  one  himself,  but  was  informed  by  Ta- 
maahmaah  that  if  he  presumed  to  do  so  he  would 
be  put  to  death.  ' 

Young  was  obliged  to  submit,  and  remained 
all  day  in  great  perplexity  to  account  for  this 
mysterious  taboo,  and  fearful  that  som«,  hostility 
was  intended.  In  the  evening  he  learned  the 
cause  of  it,  and  his  uneasiness  was  increased. 
It  appeared  that  the  vindictive  act  of  Captain 
Metcalf  had  recoiled  upon  his  own  head.  The 
schooner  Fair  American,  commanded  by  his  son, 
following  in  his  track,  had  fallen  into  the  hands 
oi  the  natives  to  the  southward  of  Tocaigh  Bay, 
and  young  Metcalf  and  four  of  the  crew  had 
been  massacred. 

On  receiving  intelligence  of  this  event,  Ta 
maahmaah  had  immediately  tabooed  all  the  ca- 
uoes;  and  interdicted  all  intercourse  with  the 
ship,  lest  the  captain  should  learn  the  fate  of 
the  schooner,  and  take  his  revenge  upon  the  isl- 
and.    For  the  same  reason  he  prevented  Youu^ 


PROMOTION  IN  SAVAGE  LIFE. 


73 


le 

r 


rroiii  rejoining  his  countrymen.  The  Eleanor 
continued  to  fire  signals  from  time  to  time  for 
two  days,  and  then  sailed ;  concluding,  no  duubt, 
that  the  boatswain  had  deserted. 

John  Young  was  in  despair  when  he  saw  the 
ship  make  sail,  and  found  himself  abandoned 
among  savages ;  —  and  savages,  too,  sanguinary 
iu  their  character,  and  inflamed  by  acts  of  hos- 
tility. He  was  agreeably  disappointed,  however, 
in  experiencing  nothing  but  kind  treatment  from 
Tamaahmaah  and  his  people.  It  is  true,  he  was 
narrowly  watched  whenever  a  vessel  came  in 
sight,  lest  he  should  escape  and  relate  what  had 
passed  ;  but  at  other  times  he  was  treated  with 
entire  confidence  and  great  distinction.  He  be- 
came a  prime  favorite,  cabinet  counsellor,  and 
active  coadjutor  of  Tamaahmaah,  attending  him 
in  all  his  excursions,  whether  of  business  or 
pleasure,  and  aiding  in  his  warlike  and  ambitious 
enterprises.  By  degrees  he  rose  to  the  rank  of  a 
chief,  espoused  one  of  the  beauties  of  the  island, 
and  became  habituated  and  reconciled  to  his  new 
way  of  life  ;  thinking  it  better,  perhaps,  to  rule 
amoug  savages  than  serve  among  white  men  ;  to 
be  a  feathered  chief  than  a  tarpaulin  boatswain. 
His  favor  with  Tamaahmaah  never  declined ; 
and  when  that  sagacious,  intrepid,  and  aspiring 
*hieftain  had  made  himself  sovereign  over  tlie 
whole  group  of  islands,  and  removed  his  resi- 
dence to  Woahoo,  he  left  his  faithful  adherent 
John  Young  in  command  of  Owyhee. 

Such  is  an  outline  of  the  history  of  Grovernor 
Young,  as  furnished  by  himself;  and  we  regret 


III 


74 


ASTORTA. 


that  we  are  not  able  to  give  any  account  of  thfi 
Btato  maintained  by  this  seafaring  worthy,  and 
the  manner  in  which  he  discharged  his  high 
functions ;  though  it  is  evident  he  had  more  of 
the  hearty  familiarity  of  the  forecastle  than  the 
dignity  of  the  gubernatorial  office. 

These  long  conferences  were  bitter  trials  to  the 
patience  of  the  captain,  who  had  no  respect  either 
for  the  governor  or  his  island,  and  was  anxious  to 
push  on  in  quest  of  provisions  and  water.  As 
soon  as  he  could  get  his  inquisitive  partners  ono« 
more  on  board,  he  weighed  anchor,  and  made 
sail  for  the  island  of  Woahoo,  the  royal  resi* 
dence  of  Tamaahmaah. 

This  is  the  most  beautiful  island  of  the  Sand> 
wich  group.  It  is  forty-six  miles  in  length  and 
twenty-three  in  breadth.  A  ridge  of  volcanic 
mountains  extends  through  the  centre,  rising  into 
lofty  peaks,  and  skirted. by  undulating  hills  and 
rich  plains,  where  the  cabins  of  the  natives  peep 
out  from  beneath  groves  of  cocoanut  and  other 
luxuriant  trees. 

On  the  21st  of  Febrnary  the  Tonqnin  cast 
anchor  in  the  beautiful  bay  before  the  village  of 
Waititi,  (pronounced  Whyteetee,)  the  abode  of 
Tamaahmaah.  This  village  contained  about  two 
hundred  habitations,  composed  of  poles  set  in  the 
ground,  tied  together  at  the  ends,  and  thatched 
with  grass,  and  was  situated  in  an  open  grove  of 
cocoanuts.  The  royal  palace  of  Tamaahmaah 
was  a  large  house  of  two  stories ;  the  lower  of 
stone,  the  upper  of  wood.  Round  this  his  body- 
guard kept  watch,  composed  of  twenty-four  men, 


A  ROYAL   VISIT, 


75 


le 
Id 


in  long  blue  cassockfi  turned  up  with  yellow,  and 
each  armed  with  a  musket. 

While  at  anchor  at  this  place,  much  ceremo- 
nious visiting  and  long  conferences  took  place 
between  the  potentate  of  the  islands  and  the  part- 
ners of  the  company.  Tamaahmaah  came  on 
board  of  the  ship  in  royal  style,  in  his  double 
pirogue.  He  was  between  fiflty  and  sixty  yearn 
of  age,  above  the  middle  size,  large  and  well 
made,  though  somewhat  coi*pulent.  He  was 
dressed  in  an  old  suit  of  regimentals,  with  a 
sword  by  his  side,  and  seemed  somewhat  embar- 
rassed by  his  magnificent  attire.  Three  of  his 
wives  accompanied  him.  They  were  almost  as 
tall,  and  quite  as  corpulent  as  himself;  but  by  no 
means  to  be  compared  with  him  in  gramleur  of 
habiliments,  wearing  no  other  garb  than  the  pau. 
With  him,  also,  came  his  great  favorite  and  confi- 
dential counsellor,  Kraimaker  ;  who,  from  holding 
a  post  equivalent  to  that  of  prime  minister,  had 
been  familiarly  named  Billy  Pitt  by  the  British 
visitors  to  the  islands. 

The  sovereign  was  received  with  befitting 
ceremonial.  The  American  fiag  was  displayed, 
four  guns  were  fired,  and  the  partners  appeared 
in  scarlet  coats,  and  conducted  their  illustrioits 
guests  to  the  cabin,  where  they  were  regaled 
with  wine.  In  this  interview  the  partners  en- 
deavored to  impress  the  monarch  with  a  sense  of 
their  importance,  and  of  the  importance  of  the 
association  to  which  they  belonged.  They  let 
him  know  tliat  they  were  eris,  or  chiefs,  of  a 
great   company  about  to  be  established   on  the 


I 


76 


ASTORIA. 


uorthwest  coast,  and  talked  of  the  probability  of 
opening  a  trade  with  his  islands,  and  of  sending 
ships  theie  occasionally.  All  this  was  gratifying 
and  interesting  to  him,  for  he  was  aware  of  the 
advantages  of  trade,  and  desirous  of  promoting 
frequent  intercourse  with  white  men.  He  en- 
couraged Europeans  and  Americans  to  settle  in 
his  islands  and  intermarry  with  bis  subjects. 
There  were  between  twenty  and  thirty  white 
men  at  that  time  resident  in  the  island,  but  many 
of  them  were  mere  vagabonds,  who  remained 
there  in  hopes  of  leading  a  lazy  and  an  easy  life. 
Fqi;  such  Tamaahmaah  had  a  great  contempt ; 
those  only  had  his  esteem  and  countenance  who 
knew  some  trade  or  mechanic  art,  and  were  sober 
and  industrious. 

On  the  day  subsequent  to  the  monarch's  visit,  the 
partners  landed  and  waited  upon  him  in  return. 
Knowing  the  effect  of  show  and  dress  upon  men 
in  savage  life,  and  wishing  to  make  a  favorable 
impression  as  the  «m,  or  chiefs,  of  the  great 
American  Fur  Company,  some  of  them  appeared 
in  Highland  plaids  and  kilts,  to  the  great  admi- 
ration of  the  natives. 

While  visits  of  ceremony  and  grand  diplomatic 
conferences  wore  going  on  between  the  partners 
<^nd  tlie  king,  the  captain,  in  his  plain,  matter-of- 
fact  ^vay,  was  pushing  what  he  considered  a  far 
more  important  negotiation ;  the  purchase  of 
a  supply  of  hogs.  He  found  that  the  king  had 
profited  in  more  ways  than  one  by  his  intercourse 
with  whit6  men.  Above  all  other  arts  ho  had 
learned  the  art  of  driving  a  bargain.     He  was  a 


TAMAAffMAAH  AS  A    TRADER. 


77 


11- 

tic 

ir8 
)f- 
ir 
)f 
id 

iQ 
id 

a 


ma^animous  monarch,  but  a  shrewd  pork  mer- 
chant ;  and  perhaps  thought  he  could  not  do 
better  with  his  future  allies,  the  American  Fur 
Company,  than  to  begin  by  close  dealing.  Sev- 
eral interviews  were  requisite,  and  much  bargain- 
ing, before  he  could  be  brought  to  part  with  a 
bristle  of  his  bacon,  and  then  he  insisted  upon 
being  paid  in  hard  Spanish  dollars ;  giving  as  a 
reason  that  he  wanted  money  to  purchase  a 
frigate  from  his  brother  George,  t»s  he  aFection- 
ately  termed  the  king  of  England.^ 

At  length  the  royal  bargain  was   concluded  ; 
the  necessary  supply  of  hogs  obtained,  beside  sev- 

1  It  appears,  from  the  accounts  of  subsequent  voyagers, 
that  Tamaahmaah  afterwards  succeeded  in  his  wish  of  pur- 
chasing a  large  ship.  ~  In  this  he  sent  a  cargo  of  sandal-wood 
to  Canton,  having  discovered  that  the  foreign  merchants 
trading  with  him  made  large  protits  on  this  wood,  shipped  by 
them  from  the  islands  to  the  Chinese  markets.  The  ship  was 
manned  by  natives,  but  the  officers  were  Englishmen..  She 
accomplished  her  voyage,  and  returned  in  safety  to  the 
islands,  with. the  Hawaiian  flag  floating  glorioush'  in  the 
breeze.  The  King  hastened  on  board,  expecting  to  find  his 
sandal-wood  converted  into  crapes  and  damasks,  and  other 
rich  stuffs  of  China,  but  found,  to  his  astonishment,  by  the 
legerdemain  of  traffic,  his  cargo  had  all  disappeared,  and,  in 
place  of  it,  remained  a  bill  of  charges  amounting  to  three 
thousand  dollars.  It  was  some  time  before  he  could  be  made 
to  comprehend  certain  of  the  moat  important  items  of  the 
bill,  such  ag  pilotage,  anchorage,  and  custom-house  fees;  but 
when  he  discovered  that  maritime  states  in  other  countries 
derived  large  revenues  in  this  manner,  to  the  great  cost 
of  the  merchant,  "  Well,"  cried  he,  **  then  I  will  havo  har- 
bor fees  also."  He  established  them  ac-ordingly.  Pilotago 
«  dt^Uar  a  foot  on  the  draft  of  each  vessel.  Anchorage  from 
lixty  to  seventy  dollars.  In  this  way  he  greatly  increased 
(he   royal    rr venue,  and   turned   his   China  speculation  tt 

ccouat. 


78 


AS  roil  A. 


erftl  goate,  two  sheep,  a  quantity  of  poultry,  and 
vegetables  in  abundance.  Tlte  partners  now 
urged  to  recruit  their  forces  from  the  natives  of 
this  island.  They  declared  they  had  never  seen 
watermen  equal  to  them,  even  among  the  voy- 
Rgeurs  of  the  Nortiiwcst ;  and,  indeed,  they  are 
remarkable  for  their  skill  in  managing  their  light 
craft,  and  can  swim  and  dive  like  waterfowl.  The 
partners  were  inclined,  therefore,  to  take  thirty 
or  forty  with  them  to  the  Columbia,  to  be  em- 
ployed in  the  service  of  the  company.  The  cap- 
tain, however,  objected  that  there  was  not  room 
in  his  vessel  for  the  accommodation  of  such  a 
number.  Twelve,  only,  were  therefore  enlisted 
for  the  company,  and  as  many  more  for  the  ser- 
vice of  the  ship.  The  former  engaged  to  serve 
for  the  term  of  three  years,  during  which  tliey 
were  to  be  fed  and  clothed ;  and  at  the  expira- 
tion of  the  time  were  to  receive  one  hundred 
dollars  in  merchandise. 

And  now,  having  embarked  his,  live-stock, 
fruits,  vegetables,  and  water,  the  captain  made 
ready  to  set  sail.  How  much  the  honest  man 
had  suffered  in  spirit  by  what  he  considered  the 
freaks  and  vagaries  of  his  passengers,  and  how 
little  he  had  understood  their  humors  and  inten- 
tions, is  amusingly  shown  in  a  letter  written  to 
Mr.  Astor  from  Woahoo,  which  contains  his 
comments  on  the  scenes  we  have  described. 

"  It  would  be  difficult,"  he  writes,  ''  to  imagine 
the  fraiitic  gambols  thnt  are  daily  played  off  here; 
sometimes  dressing  in  red  coats,  and  otherwise 
very  fantastically,  and  collecting  a  number  of  ig- 


I 


COitHTENTS  OF  A  MATTER-OF-FACT-MAN.  79 


le 


norant  natives  around  them,  telling  them  that 
they  are  the  great  eares  of  the  Northwest,  and 
'naking  arrangements  for  sending  three  or  four 
vessels  yearly  to  them  from  the  coast  with  spars, 
fee. ;  while  those  very  natives  cannot  even  fur 
\iish  a  hog  to  the  ship.  Then  dressing  in  High- 
land plaids  and  kilts,  and  making  similar  arrange- 
ments, with  presents  of  rum,  wine,  or  anything 
that  is  at  hand.  Then  taking  a  number  of  clerks 
and  men  on  shore  to  the  very  spot  on  which  Cap- 
tain Cook  was  killed,  and  each  fetching  off  a 
piece  of  the  rock  or  tree  that  was  touched  by  the 
shot.  Then  sitting  down  with  some  white  man 
or  some  native  who  can  be  a  little  understood, 
and  collecting  the  history  of  those  islands,  of 
Tamaahm.iah's  wars,  the  curiosities  of  the  isl- 
ands, &c.,  preparatory  to  the  histories  of  their 
voyages ;  and  the  collection  is  indeed  ridiculously 
contemptible.  To  enumerate  the  thousand  in- 
stances of  ignorance,  filth,  &c.,  or  to  particularize 
all  the  frantic  gambols  that  are  daily  practiced, 
would  require  volumes." 

Before  embarking,  the  great  eris  of  the  Ameri* 
can  Fur  Company  took  leave  of  their  illustrious 
ally  in  due  style,  with  many  professions  of  lasting 
friendship  and  promises  of  future  intercourse ; 
while  the  matter-of-fact  captain  anathematized 
him  in  his  heart  for  a  grasping,  trafficking  savage  ; 
as  shi-ewd  and  sordid  in  his  dealings  as  a  white 
man.  As  one  of  the  vessels  of  the  company  will, 
in  the  course  of  events,  have  to  appeal  to  the 
justice  and  magnanimity  of  this  island  potentate, 
we  shall  see  how  far  the  honest  captain  wai 
right  in  his  opinion. 


CHAPTER  Vn. 


T  was  on  the  28th  of  Febniary  that  the 
Tonquin  set  sail  from  the  Sandwich  Isl- 
ands. For  two  days  the  wind  was  con- 
trary, and  the  vessel  was  detained  in  their  neighbor- 
hood ;  at  length  a  favorable  breeze  spi  ang  up,  and 
ii^  a  little  while  the  rich  groves,  green  hills,  and 
snowy  peaks  of  those  happy  islands  one  after  an- 
other sank  from  sight,  or  melted  into  the  blue 
distance,  and  the  Tonquin  ploughed  her  course 
towards  the  sterner  regions  of  the  Pacific. 

The  misunderstandings  between  the  captain  and 
his  passengers  still  continued ;  or  rather,  increased 
in  gravity.  By  his  altercations  and  his  moody 
humors,  he  had  cut  himself  off  from  all  community 
of  thought,  or  freedom  of  conversation  with  them. 
He  disdained  to  ask  any  questions  as  to  their  pro- 
ceedings, and  could  only  guess  at  the  meaning  of 
their  movements,  and  in  so  doing  indulged  in  con- 
jectures and  suspicious,  which  produced  the  most 
whimsical  self-torment 

Thus,  in  one  of  his  disputes  with  them,  relative 
to  the  goods  on  board,  some  of  the  packages  of 
which  they  wished  to  open,  to  take  out  articles 
of  clothing  for  the  men  or  presents  for  the  natives, 
III)  was  so  harsh  and  peremptory  that  they  lost  all 
patience,  and  hinted  that  they  were  the  strongesl 


SUSPfCrONS   OF  THE  CAPTAIN, 


81 


}( 


party,  and  might  reduce  him  to  a  very  ridiculoiu 
dilemma,  by  taking  from  him  the  command. 

A  thought  now  flashed  across  the  captain's  mind 
that  they  really  had  a  design  to  depose  him,  and 
that,  having  picked  up  some  information  at  Owy- 
hee, possibly  of  war  betw-een  the  United  States 
and  England,  they  meant  to  alter  the  destination 
of  the  voyage;  perhaps  to  seize  upon  ship  aiid 
cargo  for  their  own  use. 

Once  having  conceived  this  suspicion,  every- 
thing went  to  foster  it.  They  had  distributed 
fire-arms  among  some  of  their  men,  a  common 
precaution  among  the  fur  traders  when  mingling 
with  the  natives.  This,  however,  looked  like  prep- 
aration. Then  several  of  the  partners  and 
clerks  and  some  of  the  men,  being  Scotsmen,  were 
acquainted  with  the  Gaelic,  and  held  long  con- 
versations together  in  that  language.  These  con- 
versations were  considered  by  the  captain  of  a 
"  mysterious  and  unwarrantable  nature,'*  and  re- 
lated, no  doubt,  to  some  foul  conspiracy  that  was 
brewing  among  them.  He  frankly  avows  such 
suspicions,  in  his  letter  to  Mr.  Astor,  but  in- 
timates that  he  stood  ready  to  resist  any  treasonous 
cutbreak ;  and  seems  to  think  that  the  evidence 
of  preparation  on  his  part  had  an  effect  in  over- 
awing the  conspirators. 

The  fact  is,  as  we  have  since  been  informed  by 
one  of  the  parties,  it  was  a  mischievous  pleasure 
with  some  of  the  partners  and  clerks,  who  were 
young  men,  to  play  upon  the  suspicious  temper 
and  splenetic  humors  of  the  captain.  To  this  we 
may  ascribe  many  of  their  whimsic«il  pranks  and 


\\ 


ASTORIA, 


A^orrd  propositions,  and,  above  all,  their  myste* 
rioua  colloquies  in  Gaelic. 

In  this  sore  and  irritable  mood  did  the  captain 
pnrsue  his  course,  keeping  a  wary  eye  on  every 
movement,  and  bristHng  up  whenever  the  detested 
sound  of  the  Gaelic  knguage  grated  upon  his  ear. 
Nothing  occurred,  however,  materially  to  disturb 
the  residue  of  the  voyage  excepting  a  violent 
storm;  and  on  the  twenty-second  of  March,  the 
Tonquin  arrived  at  the  mouth  of  the  Oregon,  or 
Cc^«ni!ibia  E^ver. 

The  aspect  of  the  river  and  the  adjacent  coast 
Was  wild  and  dangerous.  The  mouth  of  the  Co- 
lombia is  upwards  of  i&QSt  miles  wide  with  a  pen- 
kusula  and  promontory  on  one  ^de,  and  a  long 
low  spit  of  land  on  the  other ;  between  which  a 
sand  bar  and  ehain  of  breakers  almost  block  up 
V  the  entrance.  The  interior  of  the  country  rises 
into  successive  ranges  of  mountains,  which,  at  the 
time  of  the  arrival  of  the  Tonquin,  were  covered 
with  snow. 

A  fresh  wind  from  the  northwest  sent  a  rough 
tumbling  sea  upon  the  coast,  which  broke  upon 
l^e  bar  in  furious  surges,  and  extended  a  sheet  of 
foam  almost  across  the  mouth  of  the  river.  Under 
these  eircumstanees  the  captain  did  not  think  it 
prudent  to  approach  within  three  leagues,  until 
the  bar  should  be  sounded  and  the  channel  as- 
certained. Mr.  Fox,  the  chief  mate,  was  ordered 
to  this  service  in  the  whaleboat,  accompanied  by 
John  Martin,  an  old  seaman,  who  had  formerly 
visited  the  river,  and  by  three  Canadians.  Fox 
requested  to  have  regular  sailors  to  man  the  boat, 


BARS  AND  BREAKERS. 


83 


I 


but  the  captain  would  not  spare  them  from  the 
service  of  the  ship,  and  supposed  the  Canadians, 
being  expert  boatmen  on  lakes  and  rivers,  were 
competent  to  the  service,  especially  when  directed 
and  aided  by.  Fox  and  JViartin.  Fox  seems  to 
liave  lost  all  firmness  of  spirit  on  the  occasion,  and 
tc  bave  regarded  the  service  with  a  misgiving 
heart  He  came  to  the  partners  fbr  sympathy, 
knowing  their  differences  with  the  captain,  and 
the  tears  were  in  his  eyes  as  he  represented  his 
case.  ^^  I  am  sent  off"  said  he,  ^'  without  seamen 
to  man  my  boat,  in  boisterous  weather,  and  on  the 
most  dangerous  part  of  the  northwest  coast  My 
unde  was  lost  a  few  years  ago  on  this  same  bar, 
and  I  am  now  going  to  lay  my  bones  alongside 
of  his."  The  partners  sympathized  in  hh  ap- 
prehensions, arjd  remonstrated  with  the  captain. 
The  latter,  however,  was  not  to  be  moved.  He 
had  been  displeased  with  Mr.  Fox  in  the  earlier 
part  of  the  voyage,  considering  him  indolent  and 
inactive ;  and  probably  thought  his  present  re- 
pugnance arose  from  a  want  of  true  nautical  spirit 
The  interference  of  the  partners  in  the  business 
of  the  ship,  also,  was  not  calculated  to  have  a 
&vorable  effect  on  a  stickler  for  authority  like 
himself,  especially  in  his  actual  state  of  feeling 
towards  them. 

At  one  o'dodc,  p.  m.,  therefore.  Fox  and  his 
comrades  set  off  in  the  whaleboat,  which  is  re- 
presented as  small  in  size,  and  crazy  in  condition. 
All  eyes  were  strained  after  the  little  bark  as  it 
pulled  for  shore,  rising  and  sinking  with  the  huge 
tolling  waves,  until  it  entered,  a  mere  speck,  among 


SI 


ASTORIA. 


i\ 


the  foaming  breakers,  and  was  soon  lost  to  view. 
Evening  set  in,  night  succeeded  and  passed  away, 
and  morning  returned,  but  without  the  return  of 
the  boat. 

As  the  wind  had  moderated,  the  ship  stobd 
near  to  the  land,  so  as  to  command  a  view  of  the 
river's  mouth.  Nothing  was  to  be  seen  but  a 
wild  chaos  of  tumbling  waves  breaking  upon  the 
bar,  and  apparently  forming  a  foaming  barrier 
from  shore  to  shore.  Towards  night  the  ship 
igain  stood  out  to  gain  sea-room,  and  a  gloom  was 
visible  in  every  countenance.  The  captain  him- 
self shared  in  the  general  anxiety,  and  probably 
repented  of  his  peremptory  orders.  Another 
weary  and  watchful  night  succeeded,  during  which 
the  wiiid  subsided,  and  the  weather  became  serene. 

On  the  following  day,  the  ship  having  drifted 
near  the  land,  anchored  in  fourteen  fathoms  watei, 
to  the  northward  of  the  long  peninsula  or  prom- 
ontory which  forms  the  north  side  of  the  en- 
trance, and  is  called  Cape  Disappointment  The 
pinnace  was  then  manned,  and  two  of  the  partners, 
Mr.  David  Stuart  and  Mr.  M'Kay,  set  off  in  the 
hope  of  learning  something  of  the  fate  of  the 
whaleboat.  The  surf,  however,  broke  with  such 
violence  along  the  shore  that  they  could  find  no 
landing  place.  Several  of  the  natives  appeared 
on  the  beach  and  made  signs  to  them  to  row  round 
the  cape,  but  they  thought  it  most  prudent  to  re- 
turn to  the  ship. 

The  wind  now  springing  up,  the  Tonquin  gol 
under  way,  and  stood  in  to  seek  the  channel ;  but 
was  again  deterred  by  the  frightful  aspect  of  th« 


, 


PERlLOaa  SERVICE. 


85 


rot 


breakers,  from  venturing  within  a  league.     Here 
she   hove    to;  and    Mr.  Mumford,   the    second 
mate,  was  dispatched  with  four  hands,  in  the  pin- 
nace, to  sound  across  the  channel  until  he  should 
find   four  fathoms  depth.     The  pinnace  entered 
among  the  breakers,  but  was  near  bei.^g  lost,  and 
with  difficulty  got  back  to  the  ship.     The  captain 
insisted  that  Mr.  Mumtord  had  steered  too  much 
to  the  southward.     He  now  turned  to  Mr.  Aiken, 
an  able  mariner,  destined  to  command  the  schooner 
intended  for  the  coasting  trade,  and  ordered  him, 
together   with   John    Coles,  sail-maker,  Stephen 
Weekes,  armorer,  and  two  Sandwich  Islanders,  to 
proceed  ahead  and  take  soundings,  while  the  ship 
should  follow  under  easy  sail.     In  this  way  they 
proceeded  until  Aiken  had  ascertained  the  channel, 
when  signal  was  given  from  the  ship  for  him  to 
return  on  board.     He  was  then  within  pistol  shot, 
but  so  furious  was  the  current,  and  tumultuous 
the  breakers,  that  the  boat  became  unmanageable, 
and  was  hurried  away,  the  crew  crying  out  pite- 
ously  for  assistance.     In  a  few  moments  she  could 
not  be  seen  from  the  ship's  deck.     Some  of  the 
passengers  climbed  to  the  mizzeu  top,  and  beheld 
hfer  still  struggling  to  reach  the  ship ;  but  shortly 
after  she  broached  broadside  to  the  waves,  and  her 
case  seemed  desperate.     The  attention  of  those 
on  board  of  the  ship  was  now  called  to  their  own 
safety.     They  were  in  shallow  water ;  the  vessel 
struck  repeatedly,  the  waves  broke  over  her,  and 
there  was  danger  of  her  foundering.     At  length 
she  got  into  seven  fathoms  water,  and  the  wind 
lulling,  and  the   night  coming   on,  cast   anchor. 


m 


ASTORIA, 


With  the  darkness  their  anxieties  increased.  The 
wind  wliistled,  the  sea  roared,  the  gloom  was  only 
broken  by  the  ghastly  glare  of  the  foaming  breakers, 
the  minds  of  the  seamen  were  full  of  dreary  ap- 
prehensions, and  some  of  them  fancied  they  heard 
the  cries  of  their  lost  comrades  mingling  with  the 
uproar  of  the  elements.  For  a  time,  too,  the 
rapidly  ebbing  tide  threatened  to  sweep  them  from 
their  precarious  anchorage.  At  lengtli  the  reflux 
of  the  tide,  and  the  springing  up  of  the  wind,  en- 
abled them  to  quit  their  dangerous  situation  and 
1 4  take  shelter  in  a  small  bay  within  Cape  Dis- 
appointment, where  they  rode  in  safety  during 
the  residue  of  a  stormy  night,  and  enjoyed  a  brief 
interval  of  refreshmg  sleep. 

With  the  light  of  day  returned  their  cares  and 
anxieties.  They  looked  out  from  the  mast-head 
over  a  wild  coast,  and  wilder  sea,  but  could  dis- 
cover no  trace  of  the  two  boats  and  their  crews 
that  were  missing.  Several  of  the  natives  came 
on  board  with  peltries,  but  there  was  no  disposition 
to  trade.  They  were  interrogated  by  signs  after 
the  lost  boats,  but  could  not*  understand  the  in- 
quiries. 

Parties  now  went  on  shore  and  scoured  tfce 
neighborhood.  One  of  these  was  headed  by  the 
captain.  They  had  not  proceeded  far  when  they 
beheld  a  person  at  a  distance  in  civilized  garb. 
As  he  drew  rfear  he  proved  to  be  Weekes,  the 
armorer.  There  was  a  burst  of  joy,  far  it  was 
hoped  his  comrades  were  near  at  hand.  His  story, 
however,  was  one  of  disaster.  He  and  his  con*- 
panions  had  found  it  impossible  to  govern  tbe»> 


? 


/ 


/ 


WEEKES  TEE  ARHOHER. 


87 


/ 


? 


boat,  having  no  rudder,  and  being  beset  by  rapid 
and  whirling  currents  and  boisterous  surges.  After 
long  struggling  they  had  let  her  go  at  the  mercy 
of  the  waveSf  tossing  about,  sometimes  with  her 
bow,  sometimes  with  her  broadside  to  the  surges, 
threatened  each  instant  with  destruction,  yet  re- 
peatedly escaping,  until  a  huge  sea  broke  over  and 
swamped  her.  Weekes  wuz  overwhelmed  by  the 
boiling  waves,  but  emerging  above  the  surface, 
looked  round  for  his  companions.  Aiken  and 
Coles  were  not  to  be  seen ;  near  him  were  the 
two  Sandwich  Islanders,  stripping  themselves  of 
their  clothing  that  they  might  swim  more  freely. 
'.«JI&  didj^e  s»me,  and  the  boat  floating  near  to 
him  he  seized  hold  of  it  The  two  islanders 
joined  him,  and,  uniting  their  forces,  they  succeeded 
in  turning  the  boat  upon  her  keel ;  then  bearing 
down  her  stern  and  rodsing  her,  they  forced  out 
so  much  water  that  she  was  able  to  bear  the  weight 
of  a  man  without  sinking.  One  of  the  islanders 
now  got  in,  and  in  a  little  while  bailed  out  the 
water  with  his  hands.  The  other  swam  about 
and  collected  the  oars,  and  they  all  three  got  oncu 
more  on  board. 

By  this  time  the  tide  had  swept  them  beyond 
the  breakers,  and  Weekes  called  6n  his  compan- 
ions to  row  for  land.  They  were  so  dulled  and 
benumbed  by  the  cold,  however,  that  they  lost 
fUl  heart,  and  absolutely  refused.  Weekes  was 
equally  chilled,  but  had  superior  sagacity  and  self- 
command.  He  counteracted  the  tendency  to 
drowsiness  and  stupor  which  cold  produces  by 
keeping  himself  in  constant  exercise ;  and  seemg 


88 


ASTORIA, 


thttt  the  vessel  was  advancing,  and  that  every 
tiling  depended  upon  himself,  he  set  to  work  to 
Bcull  the  boat  clear  of  the  bar,  and  into  quiet 
water. 

Towards  midnight  one  of  the  poor  islanders 
expired :  his  companion  threw  himself  on  his  corpse 
and  could  not  be  persuaded  to  leave  him.  The 
dismal  night  wore  away  amidst  these  horrors :  as 
the  day  dawned,  Weekes  found  himself  near  the 
land.  He  steered  directly  for  it,  and  at  length, 
with  the  aid  of  the  surf,  ran  his  boat  high  upon 
^,a  sandy  beach. 

Finding  that  one  of  the  Sandwich  Islanders  yet 
gave  signs  of  life,  he  aided  him  to  leave  the  boat, 
and  set  out  with  him  towards  the  adjacent  woods.* 
The  poor  fellow,  however,  was  too  feeble  to  follow 
him,  and  Weekes  was  soon  obliged  to  abandon 
him  to  his  fate  and  provide  for  his  own  safety. 
Falling  upon  a  beaten  path,  he  pursued  it,  and 
after  a  few  hours  came  to  a  part  of  the  coast, 
where,  to  his  surprise  and  joy,  he  beheld  the  ship 
at  anchor  and  was  met  by  the  captain  and  his 
party. 

After  Weekes  had  related  his  adventures,  three 
parties  were  dispatched  to  beat  up  the  coast  in 
search  of  the  unfortunate  islander.  They  re- 
turned at  night  without  success,  though  they  had 
used  the  utmost  diligence.  On  the  following  day 
the  search  was  resumed,  and  the  poor  fellow  was 
at  length  discovered  lying  beneath  a  group  of 
rocks,  his  legs  swollen,  his  feet  torn  and  bloody 
from  walking  through  bushes  and  briers,  and  hira- 
«elf  half-dead   with   cold,   hunger,   and   fatigue. 


1 


SANDWICH  IBLANDEWa  BURIAL, 


d9 


Weekes  and  this  islander  were  the  only  survivors 
of  the  crew  of  the  jolly-boat,  and  no  trace  was 
ever  discovered  of  Fox  and  his  party.  Thus 
eight  men  were  lost  on  the  first  approach  to  the 
coast;  a  commencement  that  cast  a  gloom  over 
the  spirits  of  the  whole  party,  and  was  regarded 
by  some  of  the  superstitious  as  an  omen  that 
boded  no  good  to  the  enterprise. 

Towards  night  the  Sandwich  Islanders  went  on 
shore,  to  bury  the  body  of  their  unfortunate 
countryman  who  had  perished  in  the  boat.  On 
arriving  at  the  place  where  it  had  been  left,  they 
dug  a  grave  in  the  sand,  in  which  they  deposited 
the  corpse,  with  a  biscuit  under  one  of  the  arms, 
some  lard  under  the  dun,  and  a  small  quantity  of 
tobacco,  as  provisions  for  its  journey  in  the  land 
of  spirits.  Having  covered  the  body  with  sand  and 
flints,  they  kneeled  along  the  grave  in  a  double 
row,  with  their  faces  turned  to  the  east,  while 
one  who  officiated  as  a  priest  sprinkled  them  with 
water  from  a  hat  In  so  doing  he  recited  a  kind 
of  prayer  or  invocation,  to  which,  at  intervals, 
the  others  made  responses.  Such  were  the  simple 
rites  performed  by  tiiese  poor  savages  at  the  grave 
of  their  comrade  on  the  shores  of  a  strange  land ; 
and  when  these  were  done,  they  rose  and  returned 
in  silence  to  the  ship,  without  once  casting  a  look 
behind. 


CHAPTER  Vm. 

HE  Columbia,  or  Oregon,  for  the  distance 
of  thirty  or  forty  miles  from  its  entrance 
into  the  sea,  is,  properly  speaking,  a  mere 
estuary,  indented  by  deep  bays  so  as  to  vary  from 
three  to  seven  miles  in  width ;  and  is  rendered 
extremely  intricate  and  dangerous  by  shoals  reach- 
ing nearly  from  shore  to  shore,  on  which,  at  times, 
the  winds  and  currents  produce  foaming  and 
tumultuous  breakers.  The  mouth  of  the  river 
proper  is  but  about  half  a  mile  wide,  formed  by 
the  contracting  shores  of  the  estuary.  The  en- 
trance from  the  sea,  as  we  have  already  observed, 
is  bounded  on  the  south  side  by  a  fiat  sandy  spit 
of  land,  stretchmg  into  the  ocean.  This  is  com- 
monly called  Point  Adams.  The  opposite,  or 
northern  side,  is  Cape  Disappointment ;  a  kind  of 
peninsula,  terminating  in  a  steep  knoll  or  pro- 
montory crowned  with  a  forest  of  pine-trees,  and 
connected  with  the  main-land  by  a  low  and  narrow 
neck.  Immediately  witliin  this  cape  is  a  wide, 
open  bay,  terminating  at  Chinook  Point,  so  called 
from  a  neighboring  tribe  of  Indians.  This  was 
called  Baker's  Bay,  and  here  the  Tonquin  was 
anchored. 

The  natives  inhabiting  the  lower  part  of  the 
liver,  and  with  whom  the  company  was  likely  to 


BUNTING  AND  FISHING  INDIANS.       91 


16 
I  to 


have  the  most  frequent  intercourse,  were  divided 
at  this  time  into  four  tribes,  the  Chinooks,  Clatsops, 
Wahkiacums,  and  Cathlamahs.  They  resembled 
each  other  in  person,  dress,  language,  and  manner ; 
and  were  probably  from  the  same  stock,  but  broken 
into  tribes,  or  rather  hordes,  by  those  feuds  and 
schisms  frequent  among  Indians. 

These  people  generally  live  by  fishmg.  It  is 
true  they  occasionally  hunt  the  elk  and  deer,  and 
ensnare  the  water-fowl  of  theJr  ponds  and  rivers, 
but  these  are  casual  luxuries.  Their  chief  sub- 
sistence is  derived  from  the  salmon  and  other  fish 
which  abound  in  the  Columbia  and  its  tributary 
streams,  aided  by  roots  and  herbs,  especially  the 
wappatoo,  which  is  found  on  the  islands  of  the 
river. 

As  the  Indians  of  the  plains  who  depend  upon 
the  chase  are  bold  and  expert  riders,  and  pride 
themselves  upon  their  horses,  so  these  piscatory 
tribes  of  the  coast  excel  in  the  management  of 
canoes,  and  are  never  more  at  home  than  when 
riding  upon  the  waves.  Their  canoes  vary  in 
form  and  size.  Some  are  upwards  of  fifty  feet 
long,  cut  out  of  a  single  tree,  either  fir  or  white 
cedar,  and  capable  of  carrying  thirty  persons. 
They  have  thwart  pieces  from  side  to  side  about 
three  inches  thick,  and  their  gunwales  flare  out- 
wards, so  as  to  cast  off  the  surges  of  the  waves. 
The  bow  and  stern  are  decorated  with  grotesque 
figures  of  men  and  animals,  sometimes  five  feet 
in  height. 

In  managing  their  canoes  they  kneel  two  and 
*wo  along  the  bottom,  sitting  on  their  heels,  and 


92 


ASTORIA. 


wielding  paddles  from  four  to  five  feet  long,  while 
one  sits  on  the  stern  and  steers  with  a  paddle  of 
the  same  kind.  The  women  are  equaUy  expert 
with  the  men  in  managing  the  canoe,  and  gener- 
ally take  the  helnaH 

It  is  surprisingHo  see  with  what  fearless  un 
concern  these  savages  venture  in  their  light  barks 
upon  the  roughest  and  most  tempestuous  seas. 
They  seen-  to  ride  upon  the  waves  like  sea- fowl. 
Should  a  surge  throw  the  canoe  upon  its  side  and 
endanger  its  overturn,  those  to  windward  lean 
over  the  upper  gunwale,  thrust  their  paddles  deep 
into  the  wave,  apparently  catch  the  water  and 
force  it  under  the  canoe,  and  by  this  action  not 
merely  regain  an  equilibrium,  but  give  their  bark 
a  vigorous  impulse  forwaru. 

The  effect  of  different  modes  of  life  upon  the 
human  frame  and  human  character  is  strikingly 
instanced  in  the  contrast  between  the  hunting  In 
dians  of  the  prairies,  and  the  piscatory  Indians  of 
the  sea-coast  The  former,  continually  on  horse- 
back scouring  the  plains,  gaining  their  food  by 
hardy  exercise,  and  subsisting  chiefly  on  flesh,  are 
generally  tall,  sinewy,  meagre,  but  well  formed, 
and  of  bold  and  fierce  deportment:  the  latter, 
lounging  about  the  river  banks,  or  squatting  and 
curved  up  in  their  canoes,  are  generally  low  in 
stature,  ill-shaped,  with  crooked  legs,  thick  ankles, 
and  broad  flat  feot.  They  ai'e  inferior  also  in 
muscular  power  and  activity,  and  in  game  qual- 
ities and  appearance,  to  their  hard- riding  )rethren 
of  the  prairies. 

Having  premised  these  few  particulars  concern- 


CAP  TAINTS  IMPATIENCE. 


9d 


•> 


big  tlie  neighboring  Indians,  we  will  return  to  the 
immediate  concerns  of  the  Tonquin  and  her  crewj 

Furtl.er  search  was  made  for  Mr.  Fox  and  Jus 
party,  but  with  no  better  success,  and  they  were 
at  length  given  up  as  lost.  In  the  meantime,  the 
captain  and  some  of  the  partners  explored  the 
river  for  some  distance  in  a  large  boat,  to  select 
a  suitable  place  for  the  trading  post.  Their 
old  jealousies  and  differences  continued ;  they 
never  could  coincide  in  their  choice,  and  the  cap- 
tain objected  altogether  to  any  site  so  high  up  the 
river.  They  all  returned,  therefore,  to  Baker's 
Bay  in  no  very  good  humor.  The  partners  pro- 
posed to  examine  the  opposite  shore,  but  the  cap- 
tain was  impatient  of  any  further  delay.  His 
eagerness  to  "get  on"  had  increased  upon  him. 
He  thought  all  these  excursions  a  sheer  loss  of 
time,  and  was  resolved  to  land  at  once,  build  a 
shelter  for  the  reception  of  that  part  of  his  cargo 
destined  for  the  use  of  the  settlement,  and,  having 
cleared  his  ship  of  it  and  of  his  irksome  shipmates, 
to  depart  upon  the  prosecution  of  his  coasting 
voyage,  according  to  orders. 

On  the  following  day,  therefore,  without  troub- 
ling himself  to  consult  the  partners,  he  landed 
in  Baker's  Bay,  and  proceeded  to  erect  a  shed  for 
the  reception  of  the  rigging,  equipments,  and 
stores  of  the  schooner  that  was  to  be  built  for  the 
use  of  the  settlement. 

This  doggod  determination  on  the  part  of  the 
sturdy  captain  gave  high  offense  to  Mr.  M'Dougal, 
who  now  considered  himself  at  the  head  of  the 
concern^  as  Mr.  Astor's  representative  and  proxy. 


94 


ASTORIA. 


He  set  off  the  same  day,  (April  5th,)  accompanied 
by  Mr.  David  Stuart  for  the  southern  shore,  in- 
tending to  be  back  by  the  seventh.  Not  having 
the  captain  to  contend  with,  they  soon  pitched 
upon  a  spot  which  appeared  to  them  favorable  for 
the  intended  establishment.  It  was  on  a  point 
of  land  called  Point  George,  having  a  very  good 
harbor,  where  vessels,  not  exceeding  two  hundred 
tons  burden,  might  anchor  within  fifty  yards  of 
the  shore. 

After  a  day  thus  profitably  spent,  they  re- 
crossed  the  river,  but  landed  on  the  northern  shore 
several  miles  above  the  anchoring  ground  of  the 
Tonquin,  in  the  neighborhood  of  Chinook,  and 
visiced  the  village  of  that  tribe.  Here  they 
were  received  with  great  hospitality  by  the  chief, 
who  was  named  Comcomly,  a  shrewd  old  savage, 
with  but  one  eye,  who  will  occasionally  figure  in 
this  narrative.  Each  village  forms  a  petty  sover- 
eignty, governed  by  its  own  chief,  who,  however, 
possesses  but  little  authority,  unless  he  be  a  man 
of  wealth  and  substance ;  that  is  to  say,  possessed 
of  canoes,  slaves,  and  vidves.  The  greater  number 
of  these,  the  greater  is  the  chief.  How  many 
wives  this  one-eyed  potentate  maintained  we  are 
not  told,  but  he  certainly  possessed  great  sway, 
not  merely  over  his  own  tribe,  but  over  the 
neighborhood. 

Having  mentioned  slaves,  we  would  observe 
that  slavery  exists  among  severaf  of  the  tribes 
beyond  the  Rocky  Mountains.  The  slaves  are 
well  treated  while  in  good  health,  but  occupied 
in  all  kinds  of  drudgery.     Should  they  become 


AN  ARISTOCRACY   OF  FLAT  HEADS.        95 


e 


useless,  however,  by  sickness  or  old  age,  they  are 
totally  neglected,  and  left  to  perish ;  nor  is  any 
respect  paid  to  their  bodies  after  death. 

A  singular  custom  prevails,  not  merely  among 
the  Chinooks,  but  among  most  of  the  tribes  about 
this  part  of  the  coast,  which  is  the  flattening  of 
the  forehead.  The  process  by  which  this  deformity 
is  effected  commences  immediately  after  birth. 
The  infant  is  Jaid  in  a  wooden  trough,  by  way  of 
cradle.  The  end  on  which  the  head  reposes  is 
higher  than  the  rest.  A  padding  is  placed  on  the 
forehead  of  the  infant,  with  a  piece  of  bark  above 
it,  and  is  pressed  down  by  cords,  which  pass 
through  holes  on  each  side  of  the  trough.  As 
the  tightening  of  the  padding  and  the  pressing  of 
the  head  to  the  board  is  gradual,  the  process  is 
said  not  to  be  attended  with  much  pain.  The  ap- 
pearance of  the  infant,  however,  while  in  this 
state  of  compression,  is  whimsically  hideous,  and 
"  its  little  black  eyes,"  we  are  told,  "  being  forced 
out  by  the  tightness  of  the  bandages,  resemble 
those  of  a  mouse  choked  in  a  trap." 

About  a  year's  pressure  is  sufficient  to  produce 
the  desired  effect,  at  the  end  of  which  time  the 
child  emerges  from  its  bandages  a  complete  flat- 
head,  and  continues  so  through  life.  It  must  be 
noted,  however,  that  this  flattening  of  the  head 
has  something  in  it  of  aristocratical  significancy, 
like  the  crippling  of  the  feet  among  the  Chinese 
ladies  of  quality.  At  any  rate,  it  is  a  sign  of 
freedom.  No  slave  is  permitted  to  bestow  this 
enviable  deformity  upon  his  cliild ;  all  the  slaves, 
therefore,  are  roundheads. 


96 


ASTORIA. 


With  this  worthy  tribe  of  Chinooks  the  two 
partners  passed  a  pai't  of  the  day  very  agreeably. 
M'  Dougal,  who  was  somewhat  vain  of  his  oihcial 
rank,  had  given  it  to  be  understood  that  they 
were  two  chiefs  of  a  great  trading  company,  about 
to  be  established  here,  and  the  quicksighted, 
though  one-eyed  chief,  who  was  somew?iat  prac- 
ticed in  traffic  with  white  men,  immediately  per- 
ceived the  policy  of  cultivating  the  friendship  of 
two  such  important  visitors.  He  regaled  them, 
therefore,  to  the  best  of  his  ability,  with  abun- 
dance of  salmon  and  wappatoo.  The  next 
morning,  April  7th,  they  prepared  to  return  to 
the  vessel,  according  to  promise.  Thby  had 
eleven  miles  of  open  bay  to  traverse;  the  wind 
was  fresh,  the  waves  ran  high.  Comcomly  re- 
monstrated with  tb^n  on  the  hazard  to  which 
they  would  be  exposed.  They  were  resolute, 
however,  and  launched  their  boat,  while  the  wary 
chieftain  followed  at  some  short  distance  in  his 
canoe.  Scarce  had  they  rowed  a  mile,  when  a 
wave  broke  over  their  boat  and  upset  it.  They 
were  in  imminent  peril  of  drowning,  especially 
Mr.  M' Dougal,  who  could  not  swim.  Comcomly, 
liowever,  came  bounding  over  the  waves  in  his 
light  canoe,  and  snatched  them  from  a  watery 
grave. 

They  were  taken  on  shore  and  a  fire  made,  at 
which  they  dried  their  clothes,  after  which  Com- 
comly conducted  them  back  to  his  village.  Here 
everything  was  done  that  could  be  devised  for 
their  entertainment  during  three  days  that  they 
were  detained  by  bad  weather.     Comcomly  made 


EOSPITALITY  OF   COMCOMLT. 


97 


his  people  perform  antics  before  them ;  an^  bis 
wives  and  daughters  endeavored,  by  all  the 
soothing  and  endearmg  arts  of  women,  to  find 
favor  in  their  eyes.  Some  even  painted  their 
bodies  with  red  clay,  and  anointed  themselves 
with  fish  oil,  to  give  additional  lustre  to  their 
charms.  Mr.  M'Dougal  seems  to  have  had  a 
heart  susceptible  to  the  influence  of  the  gentler 
sex.  Whether  or  no  it  was  first  touched  on  this 
occasion  we  do  not  learn ;  but  it  will  be  found, 
in  the  course  of  this  work,  that  one  of  the 
daughters  of  the  hospitable  Comcomly  eventually 
made  a  conquest  of  the  great  eri  of  the  American 
Fur  Company. 

When  the  weather  had  moderated  and  the  sea 
become  tranquil,  the  one-eyed  chief  of  the 
Chinooks  manned  his  state  canoe,  and  conducted 
his  guests  in  safety  to  the  ship,  where  they  were 
welcomed  with  joy,  for  apprehensions  had  -been 
felt  for  their  safety.  Comcomly  and  his  people 
were  then  entertained  on  board  of  the  Tonquin, 
and  liberally  rewarded  for  their  hospitality  and 
services.  They  returned  home  highly  satisfied, 
promising  to  remain  faithful  friends  and  allies  oi 
the  white  men. 


CHAPTER  IX. 


) 


ROM  the  report  made  by  the  two  ex« 
loring  partners,  it  was  determined  that 
Point  George  should  be  the  site  of  the 
trading  house.  These  gentlemen,  it  is  true,  were 
not  perfectly  satisfied  with  the  place,  and  were 
desirous  of  continuing  their  search ;  but  Captain 
Thorn  was  impatient  to  land  his  cargo  and  con- 
tinue his  voyage,  and  protested  against  any  more 
of  what  he  termed  "  sporting  excursions." 

Accordingly,  on  the  12th  of  April  the  launch 
was  freighted  with  all  things  necessary  for  the 
purpose,  and  sixteen  persons  departed  in  her  to 
commence  the  establishment,  leaving  the  Tonquin 
to  follow  as  soon  as  the  harbor  could  be  sounded. 

Crossing  the  wide  mouth  of  the  river,  the  party 
landed,  and  encamped  at  the  bottom  of  a  small 
bay  within  Point  George.  The  situation  chosen 
for  the  fortified  post  was  on  an  elevation  facing 
to  the  north,  with  the  wide  estuary,  its  sand  bars 
and  tumultuous  breakers  spread  out  before  it,  and 
the  promontory  of  Cape  Disappointment,  fifteen 
miles  distant,  closing  the  prospect  to  the  left. 
The  surrounding  country  was  in  all  the  freshness 
of  spring ;  the  trees  were  in  the  young  leaf,  the 
weather  was  superb,  and  everything  looked 
delightful  to  men  just  emr.ncipated  from  a  long 


to 


^ 


y 


p 


BUILD  mo  AST  on  FA. 


99 


confinement  on  shipboard.  The  Tonquin  shortly 
afterwards  made  her  way  fhrough  the  mtricate 
channel,  and  came  to  anchor  in  the  little  bay,  and 
was  saluted  from  the  encampment  with  three 
volleys  of  musketry  and  three  cheers.  She  re- 
turned the  salute  with  three  cheers  and  three 
guns. 

All  hands  now  set  to  work  cutting  down  trees, 
clearing  away  thickets,  and  marking  out  the  place 
for  the  residence,  store-house,  and  powder  maga- 
zine, which  were  to  be  built  of  logs  and  covered 
with  bark.  Others  landed  the  timbers  intended 
for  the  frame  of  the  coasting  vessel,  and  proceeded 
to  put  them  together,  while  others  prepared  a 
garden  spot,  and  sowed  the  seeds  of  various 
vegetables. 

The  next  thought  was  to  give  a  name  to  the 
embryo  metropolis :  the  one  that  naturally  pre- 
sented itself  was  that  of  the  projector  and  sup- 
porter of  the  whole  enterprise.  It  was  accord- 
ingly named  Astoria. 

The  neighboring  Indians  now  swarmed  about 
the  place.  Some  brought  a  Ibw  land-otter  and 
sea-otter  skins  to  barter,  but  in  very  scanty 
parcels ;  the  greater  number  came  prying  about 
to  gratify  their  curiosity,  for  they  are  said  to  be 
impertinently  inquisitive ;  while  not  a  few  came 
with  no  other  design  than  to  pilfer ;  the  laws  of 
meum  and  tuum  being  but  slightly  respected 
among  them.  Some  of  them  beset  the  ship  in 
their  canoes,  among  whom  was  the  Chinook 
chief  Comcomly,  and  his  liege  subjects.  These 
were  well  receive  by  Mr.  M'Dougal,  who  was 


100 


ASTORIA. 


V  y 


delighted  with  an  opportunity  of  entering  upon 
his  functions,  and  acquiring  importance  in  the 
eyes  of  his  future  neighbors.  The  confusion 
tlius  produced  on  board,  and  the  derangement  of 
the  cargo  caused  by  this  petty  trade,  stirred  the 
spleen  of  the  captain,  who  had  a  sovereign  con- 
tempt for  the  one-eyed  chieftain  and  all  his  crew. 
He  complained  loudly  of  having  his  ship  lum- 
bered by  a  host  of  "Indian  ragamuffins,"  who 
had  not  a  skin  to  dispose  of,  and  at  length  put 
his  positive  interdict  upon  all  trafficking  on  board. 
Upon  this  Mr.  M'Dougal  was  fain  to  land,  and 
establish  his  quarters  at  the  encampment,  where 
he  could  exercise  his  rights  and  enjoy  his  dignities 
without  control. 

The  feud,  however,  between  these  rival  powers 
still  continued,  but  was  chiefly  carried  on  by 
letter.  Day  after  day  and  week  after  week 
elapsed,. yet  the  store-house  requisite  for  the  re- 
ception of  the  cargo  were  not  completed,  and  the 
ship  was  detained  in  port ;  while  the  captain  was 
teased  by  frequent  requisitions  for  various  articles 
for  the  use  of  the  •stablishment,  or  the  trade  with 
the  natives.  An  angry  correspondence  took 
place,  in  which  he  complained  bitterly  of  the 
time  wasted  in  "  smoking  and  sporting  parties," 
as  he  termed  the  reox)nnoitring  expeditions,  and  in 
clearing  and  preparing  meadow  ground  and  turnip 
patches,  instead  of  dispatchmg  his  ship.  At 
length  all  these  jarring  matters  were  adjusted,  if 
not  to  the  satisfaction,  at  least  to  the  acquiescence 
of  all  parties.  The  part  of  the  cargo  destined 
for  the  use  of  Astoria  was  landed,  and  tho  ship 
'eft  free  to  proceed  on  her  voyage. 


i\ 


I 


« 


SAILINO    OF   THE  TONQUIN. 


101 


n 


As  the  Tocquin  was  to  coast  to  the  noi:h,  to 
trade  for  peltries  at  the  different  harbors,  and  to 
touch  at  Astoria  on  her  return  in  the  autumn,  it 
was  unanimously  deteriuined  that  Mr.  M'Kay 
should  go  in  her  as  supercargo,  taking  with  hir 
Mr.  Lewis  as  ship's  clerk.  On  the  first  of  June 
the  ship  got  under  way,  and  dropped  down  to 
Baker's  Bay,  where  she  was  detained  for  a  ^ew 
days  by  a  head  wind ;  but  early  in  the  morning 
of  the  fifth  stood  out  to  sea  with  a  fine  breeze 
and  swelling  canvas,  and  swept  off  gaily  on  her 
fatal  voyage,  from  which  she  was  never  to  re- 
turn! 

On  reviewing  the  conduct' of  Captain  Thorn, 
and  examining  his  peevish  and  somewhat  whim- 
sical correspondence,  the  hnpression  left  upon  our 
mind  is,  upon  the  whole,  decidedly  in  his  favor. 
While  we  sq^e  at  the  simplicity  of  his  heart  and 
the  narrowness  of  his  views,  which  made  him 
regard  everything  out  of  the  direct  path  of  his 
daily  duty,  and  the  rigid  exigencies  of  the  ser- 
vice, as  trivial  and  impertinent,  which  inspired 
him  with  contempt  for  the  swelling  vanity  of 
some  of  his  coadjutors,  and  the  literary  exercises 
and  curious  researches  of  others,  we  cannot  but 
applaud  that  strict  and  conscientious  devotion  to 
the  interests  of  his  employer,  and  to  what  he 
considered  the  true  objects  of  the  enterprise  in 
which  he  was  engaged.  He  certainly  was  to 
blame  occasionally  for  the  asperity  of  his  man- 
aers,  and  the  arbitrary  nature  of  his  measures, 
jret  much  that  is  exceptionable  in  this  part  of  his 
nouduct  may  be  traced  to  rigid  notions  of  duty, 


102 


ASTORIA. 


acquired  in  that  tyrannical  school,  a  ship  of  war, 
and  to  tlie  construction  given  by  his  companions 
to  the  orders  of  Mr.  Astor,  so  little  in  conformity 
with  his  own.  His  mind,  too,  appears  to  have 
become  almost  diseased  by  the  suspicions  he  hod 
formed  as  to  the  loyalty  of  his  associates,  and  the 
nature  of  their  Ultimate  designs ;  yet  on  this 
point  there  were  circumstances  to,  in  some  mea- 
sure, justify  him.  The  relations  between  the 
United  States  and  Great  Britain  were  at  that 
time  in  a  critical  state ;  in  fact,  the  two  countries 
were  on  the  eve  of  a  war.  Several  of  the  part- 
ners were  British  subjects,  and  might  be  ready 
to  desert  the  flag  under  which  they  acted,  should 
a  war  take  place.  Their  application  to  the  Brit- 
ish minister  at  New  York  shows  the  dubious 
feeling  with  which  they  had  embarked  in  the 
present  enterprise.  They  had  beei^  in  the  em- 
ploy of  the  Northwest  Company,  and  might  be 
disposed  to  rally  again  under  that  association, 
should  events  threaten  the  prosperity  of  this  ^^.i- 
bryo  establishment  of  Mr.  Astor.  Besides,  we 
have  the  fact,  averred  to  us  by  one  of  the  part- 
ners, that  some  of  them,  who  were  young  and 
heedless,  took  a  mischievous  and  unwarrantable 
pleasure  in  playing  upon  the  jealous  temper  of 
the  captain,  and  affecting  mysterious  consulta- 
tions and  sinister  movements. 

These  circumstances  are  cited  in  palliation  of 
ihe  doubts  and  surmises  of  Captain  Thorn,  which 
might  otherwise  appear  strange  and  unreason- 
ible.  That  most  of  the  partners  were  perfectly 
upright  and  faithful  in  the  discharge  of  tiiQ  trust 


JUSTICE  OF  CAPTALya  SUSPICIONS.    1U3 

reposed  in  them  we  are  fully  satisfied ;  still  the 
honest  captain  was  not  invariably  wrong  in  his 
suspicions;  and  that  be  formed  a  pretty  just 
opinion  of  the  integrity  of  that  aspiring  person- 
age, M\'.  M'Dougal,  will  be  substantially  proved 
in  the  sequel. 


CHAPTER  X. 


jHILE  the  Astorians  were  busily  occu- 
pied in  completing  their  factory  and 
fort,  a  report  was  brought  to  them  by 
an  Indian  from  the  upper  part  of  the  river,  that 
a  party  of  thirty  white  men  had  appeared  on  the 
banks  of  the  Columbia,  and  were  actually  build- 
ing houses  at  the  second  rapids.  This  informa- 
tion caused  much  disquiet.  We  have  already 
mentioned  that  the  Northwest  Company  had 
established  posts  to  the  west  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  in  a  district  called  by  them  New 
Caledonia,  which  exti^nded  from  lat.  52°  to  55° 
north,  being  within  the  British  territories.  It 
was  now  apprehended  that  they  were  advancing 
within  the  American  limits,  and  were  endeavor- 
ing to  seize  upon  the  upper  part  of  the  river  and 
forestall. the  American  Fur  Company  in  the  sur- 
rounding trade ;  in  which  case  bloody  feuds 
might  be  anticipated,  such  as  had  prevailed 
between  the  rival  fur  companies  in  former 
Of^ys. 

A  reconnoitring  party  was  sent  up  the  river  to 
ascertain  the  truth  of  the  report.  They  ascended 
to  the  foot  of  the  first  rapid,  about  two  hundred 
miles,  but  could  hear  nothing  of  any  white  men 
being  in  the  neighborhood. 


' 


ALARMS  FROM   THE  INTERIOR. 


105 


Not  long  after  their  return,  however,  further 
Recounts  were  received,  by  two  wandering  In- 
dians, which  established  the  fact,  that  the  North- 
west Company  had  actually  erected  a  trading- 
house  on  the  Spokan  Biver,  which  falls  inio  the 
north  branch  of  the  Columbia. 

What  render'^d  this  intelligence  the  more  dis- 
quieting, was  the  inability  of  the  Astorians,  in 
their  present  reduced  state  as  to  numbers,  and 
the  exigencies  of  their  new  establishment,  to  fur- 
nish detachments  to  penetrate  the  country  iu 
different  directions,  and  fix  the  posts  necessary  to 
secure  the  interior  trade. 

It  was  resolved,  however,  at  any  rate,  to 
advance  a  counter-check  to  this  post  on  the 
Spokan,  and  one  of  the  partners,  Mr.  David 
Stuart,  prepared  to  set  out  for  the  purpose  with 
eight  men  and  a  small  assortment  of  goods.  He 
was  to  be  guided  by  the  two  Indians,  who  knew 
the  country,  and  promised  to  take  him  to  a  place 
not  far  from  the  Spokan  River,  and  in  a  neighbor- 
hood abounding  with  beaver.  Here  he  was  to 
establish  himself  and  to  remain  for  a  time,  pro- 
vided he  found  the  situation  advantageous  and 
the  natives  friendly. 

On  the  15th  of  July,  when  Mr.  Stuart  was 
nearly  ready  to  embark,  a  canoe  m^^de  its  ap- 
pearance, standing  for  the  harbor,  and  manned 
by  nine  white  men.  Much  speculation  took 
place  who  these  strangers  could  be,  for  it  was 
too  soon  to  expect  their  own  people,  under  Mr. 
Hunt,  who  were  to  cross  the  continent.  Aa  the 
canoe  drew  near,  the  British  standard  was  dis- 


106 


ASTORIA. 


tiiiguished :  on  coining  to  land,  one  of  the  crew 
Btepped  on  shore,  and  announced  himself  as  Mr. 
David  Thompson,  astronomer,  and  partner  of  the 
Northwest  Company.  According  to  his  account, 
he  had  set  out  in  the  preceding  year  with  a 
tolerably  strong  party,  and  a  supply  of  Indian 
goods,  to  cross  the  Rocky  Mountains.  A  part 
of  his  people,  however,  had  deserted  him  on  the 
eastern  side,  and  returned  with  the  goods  to  the 
nearest  Northwest  post.  He  had  persisted  in 
crossing  the  mountains  with  eight  men,  who  re- 
mained true  to  him.  They  had  traversed  the 
higher  regions,  and  ventured  near  the  source  of 
the  Columbia,  where,  in  the  spring,  they  had  con- 
structed a  cedar  canoe,  the  same  in  which  they 
had  reached  Astoria. 

This,  in  fact,  was  the  party  despatched  by  the 
Northwest  Company  to  anticipate  Mr.  Astor  in 
his  intention  of  effecting  a  settlement  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Columbia  River.  It  appears,  from 
information  subsequently  derived  from  other 
sources,  that  Mr.  Thompson  had  pushed  on  his 
course  with  great  haste,  calling  at  all  the  Indian 
villages  in  his  march,  presenting  them  with  Brit- 
ish flags,  and  even  planting  them  at  the  forks  of 
the  rivers,  proclaiming  formally  that  he  took  pos- 
session of  .the  country  in  the  name  of  the  king 
of  Great  Britain  for  the  Northwest  Company. 
As  his  original  plan  was  defeated  by  the  deser- 
tion of  his  people,  it  is  probable  that  he  descended 
the  river  simply  to  reconnoitre,  and  ascertain 
whether  an  American  settlement  had  been  con- 
menced. 


M 


A  BPY  IN  THE  CAMP. 


107 


Mr.  Thompson  was,  no  donbt,  the  first  white 
man  who  descended  the  norlheru  branch  of  the 
Columbia  from  so  near  its  source.  Lewis  and 
Clarke  struck  the  main  body  of  the  river  at  the 
forks,  about  four  hundred  miles  from  its  mouth. 
Thev  entered  it  from  Lewis  River,  its  southern 

ft  ' 

branch,  and  thence  descended. 

Though  Mr.  Thompson  could  be  considered  as 
little  better  than  a  spy  in  the  camp,  he  was  re- 
ceived with  great  cordiality  by  Mr.  M'Dougal, 
who  had  a  lurking  feeling  of  companionship  and 
good-will  for  all  of  the  Northwest  Company. 
He  invited  him  to  head-quarters,  where  he  and 
his  people  were  hospitably  entertained.  Nay, 
further,  being  somewhat  in  extremity,  he  was 
furnished  by  Mr.  M'Dougal  with  goods  and  pro- 
visions for  his  journey  back,  across  the  moun- 
tains, much  against  the  wishes  of  Mr.  David 
Stuart,  who  did  not  think  the  object  of  his  visit 
entitled  him  to  any  favor. 

On  the  23d  of  July,  Mr.  Stuart  set  out  upon 
his  expedition  to  the  interior.  His  party  consist- 
ed of  four  of  the  clerks,  Messrs.  Pillet,  Ross, 
M'Lennon,  and  Montigny,  two  Canadian  voy- 
ageurs,  and  two  natives  of  the  Sandwich  Islands. 
They  had  three  canoes  well  laden  with  provi- 
sions, and  with  goods  and  necessaries  for  a 
trading  establishment. 

Mr.  Thompson  and  his  party  set  out  in  com- 
pany with  them,  it  being  his  intention  to  proceed 
direct  to  Montreal.  The  partners  at  Astoria 
forwarded  by  him  a  short  letter  to  Mr.  Astor 
informing  him  of  their  safe  arrival  at  the  mouth 


108 


ASTORIA. 


of  the  Columbia,  and  that  they  liad  not  yet  heanl 
of  Ml*.  Hunt.  Tho  little  squadron  of  canoes  set 
sail  with  a  favorable  breeze,  and  soon  passed 
Tongue  Point,  a  long,  high,  and  rocky  promon- 
tory, covered  with  trees,  and  stretching  far  into 
the  river.  Opposite  to  this,  on  the  northern 
shore,  is  a  deep  bay,  where  the  Columbia  anchor- 
ed at  the  time  of  the  discovery,  and  which  is 
still  called  Gray's  Bay,  from  the  name  of  her 
commander. 

From  hence,  the  general  course  of  the  river 
for  about  seventy  miles,  was  nearly  southeast; 
varying  in  breadth  according  to  its  bays  and  in- 
dentations, and  navigable  for  vessels  of  three 
hundred  tons.  The  shores  wc'e  in  some  places 
high  and  rocky,  with  low  marshy  islands  at  their 
feet,  subject  to  inundation,  and  covered  with 
willows,  poplars,  and  other  trees  that  love  an 
alluvial  soil.  Sometimes  the  mountains  receded, 
and  gave  place  to  beautiful  plains  and  noble 
forests.  While  the  liver  margin  was  richly 
fringed  with  trees  of  deciduous  foliage,  the  rough 
uplands  were  crowned  by  majestic  pines,  and  firs 
of  gigantic  size,  some  towering  to  the  height  of 
between  two  and  three  hundred  feet,  with  pro- 
portionate circumference.  Out  of  these  the  In- 
dians wrought  their  great  canoes  and  pirogues. 

At  one  part  of  the  river,  they  passed,  on  the 
northern  side,  an  isolated  rock,  about  one  hun- 
dred and  fifty  feet  high^  rising  from  a  low  marshy 
soil,  and  totally  disconnected  with  the  adjacent 
mountains.  This  was  held  in  great  reverence  by 
the  neighboring  Indians,  being  one  of  their  priu- 


I 


INDIAN  SEPULCHRES. 


109 


< 


cjpal  places  of  sepulture.  The  same  provident 
care  for  the  deceased  that  prevails  among  the 
hunting  tribes  of  the  prairies  is  observable  among 
the  piscatory  tribes  of  the  rivers  and  sea-coast. 
Among  the  former,  the  favorite  horse  of  the 
hunter  is  buried  with  him  'n  the  same  funereal 
mound,  and  his  bow  and  arrows  are  laid  by  his 
side,  that  he  may  be  perfectly  equipped  for  the 
"  happy  hunting  grounds  "  of  the  land  of  spirits. 
Among  the  latter,  the  Indian  is  wrapped  in  his 
mantle  of  skins,  laid  in  his  canoS,  with  his 
paddle,  his  fishing  spear,  and  other  implements 
beside  him,  and  placed  aloft  on  some  rock  or 
other  eminence  overlorM^g  the  river,  or  bay,  or 
lake,  that  he  has  frequented.  He  is  thus  fitted 
out  to  launch  away  upon  those  placid  streams 
Hud  sunny  lakes  stocked  with  all  kinds  of  fish 
and  waterfowl,  which  are  prepared  in  the  next 
world  for  those  who  have  acquitted  themselves 
as  good  sous,  good  fathers,  good  husbands,  and, 
above  all,  good  fishermen,  during  their  mortal 
sojourn. 

The  isolated  rock  in  question  presented  a  spec- 
tacle of  the  kind,  numerous  dead  bodies  being 
deposited  in  canoes  on  its  summit ;  while  on  poles 
around  were  trophies,  or,  rather,  funereal  offermgs 
of  Uinkets,  garments,  baskets  of  roots,  and  other 
articles  for  the  use  of  the  deceased.  A  reveren- 
tial feelirg  protects  these  sacred  spots  from  rob- 
l)ery  or  insult.  The  friends  of  the  deceased,  es- 
pecially the  women,  repair  here  at  sunrise  and 
sniiaet  for  some  time  after  his  death,  singing  his 
funeral  dirge,  and  uttering  loud  wailings  and 
Uiin«)ntatiunu.  / 


no 


ASTORIA, 


From  the  number  of  dead  bodies  in  canoes 
obser-'ed  upon  this  rock  by  the  fir  Jt  explorers  of 
the  river,  it  received  the  name  of  Mount  Coffin, 
which  it  continues  to  bear. 

Beyond  this  rock  they  passed  the  mouth  of  a 
river  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Columbia,  which 
appeared  to  take  its  rise  in  a  distant  mountain, 
covered  with  snow.  The  Indian  name  of  this 
river  was  the  Cowleskee.  Some  miles  further 
on  they  came  to  the  great  Columbian  Valley,  so 
called  by  Lewis  and  Clarke.  It  is  sixty  miles 
in  width,  and  extends  far  to  ihe  southeast  be- 
tween parallel  ridges  of  mountains,  which  bound 
it  on  the  east  and  west.  Through  the  centre  of 
this  valley  flowed  a  large  afid  beautiful  stream, 
called  the  Wallamot,^  which  came  wanr'ering 
for  several  hundred  miles,  through  a  yet  unex- 
plored wilderness.  The  sheltered  situation  of 
this  immense  valley  had  an  obvious  effect  upon 
the  climate.  It  was  a  region  of  great  beauty 
and  luxuriance,  with  bkes  and  pools,  and  green 
meadows  shaded  by  noble  groves.  Various 
tribes  were  said  to  reside  in  this  valley,  and 
along  the  banks  of  the  Wallamot. 

About  eight  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the 
Wallamot  the  little  squadron  arrived  at  Van- 
couver's Point,  so  called  in  honor  of  that  cele- 
brated voya;};er  by  his  lieutenant  (Broughton) 
when  he  explored  the  river.  Ttiis  point  is  said 
to  present  one  of  the  most  beautiful  scenes  on 
the  Commbia;  a  lovely  meadow,  with  a  silver 

1  Proncun.ed  Walldmot,  the  accent  being  upon  the  second 
iyllable. 


tilXL-iiW  }rmtsttmiiJlllM 


SCENERY  OF   THE   COLUMBIA. 


Ill 


I    i' 


sheet  of  limpid  water  in  the  centre,  enlivened 
by  wild-fowl,  a  range  of  hills  crowned  by  forests, 
while  the  prospect  is  closed  by  Mount  Hood,  a 
magnificent  mountain  rising  into  a  lofty  peak, 
and  covered  with  snow;  the  ultimate  landmark 
of  the  first  explorers  of  the  river. 

Point  Vancouver  is  about  one  hundred  miles 
from  Astoria.  Here  the  reflux  of  the  tide  ceases 
to  be  perceptible.  To  this  place  vessels  of  two 
and  three  hundred  tons  burden  may  ascend.  The 
party  under  the  command  of  Mr.  Stuart  had  beea 
three  or  four  days  in  reaching  it,  though  we  have 
forborne  to  notice  their  daily  progress  and  nightl) 
encampments. 

From  Point  Vancouver  the  river  turned  to- 
wards the  northeast,  and  became  more  contracted 
and  rapid,  with  occasional  islands  and  frequent 
sand-banks.  These  islands  are  furnished  with 
a  number  of  ponds,  and  at  certain  seasons  abound 
with  swans,  geese,  braudts,  cranes,  gulls,  plover 
and  other  wild-fowl.  The  shores,  too,  are  low, 
and  closely  wooded,  and  such  an  undergrowth  of 
vines  and  rushes  as  to  be  almost  impassable. 

About  thirty  miles  above  Point  Vancouver  the 
mountains  again  approach  ^n  both  sides  of  the 
river,  which  is  bordered  by  stupendous  precipices, 
covered  with  the  fir  and  the  white  cedar,  and  en 
livened  occasionally  by  beautiful  cascad*^s  leaping 
from  a  great  height,  and  sending  up  wreaths  of 
vapor.  One  of  these  precipices,  or  cliffs,  is 
curiously  worn  by  time  and  weather  so  as  to  have 
the  appearance  of  a  ruined  fortress,  with  towers 
and  battlements,  beetling  high  above  the  river; 


112 


ASTORIA, 


}\ 


while  two  small  cascades,  one  hundred  and  fifty 
feet  in  height,  pitch  down  from  the  fissures  of  the 
rocks. 

The  turbulence  and  rapidity  of  the  current  con- 
tinually augmenting  as  they  advanced,  gave  tho 
voyagers  intimation  that  they  were  approaching 
the  great  obstructions  of  the  river,  and  at  length 
they  arrived  at  Strawberry  Island,  so  called  by 
Lewis  and  Clarke,  which  lies  at  the  foot  of  the 
first  rapid.  As  this  part  of  the  Columbia  will  be 
repeatedly  mentioned  in  the  course  of  this  work, 
being  the  scene  of  some  of  its  incidents,  we  shall 
give  a  general  description  of  it  in  this  place. 

The  falls  or  rapids  of  the  Columbia  are  situated 
above  one  hundred  and  eighty  miles  above  the 
mouth  of  the  river.  The  first  is  a  perpendicular 
cascade  of  twenty  feet,  after  which  there  is  a 
swifl  descent  for  a  mile,  between  islands  of  hard 
black  rock,  to  another  pitch  of  eight  feet  divided 
by  two  rocks.  About  two  and  a  half  miles  below 
this  the  river  expands  into  a  wide  basin,  seemingly 
dammed  up  by  a  perpendicular  ridge  of  black 
rock.  A  current,  however,  sets  diagonally  to  the 
lett  of  this  rocky  barrier,  where  there  is  a  chasm 
forty-five  yards  in  width.  Through  this  the  whole 
body  of  the  river  roars  along,  swelling  and  whirl- 
ing and  boiling  for  some  distance  in  the  wildest 
confusion.  Through  this  tremendous  channel  the 
intrepid  explorers  of  the  river,  Lewis  and  Clarke, 
passed  safely  in  their  boats ;  the  danger  being,  not 
from  the  rocks,  but  from  the  great  surges  and 
wliirlpools. 

At  the  distance  of  a  mile  and  a  half  from  the 


THE  LONG  NARROWS. 


118 


foot  of  this  narrow  channel  is  a  rapid,  formed  by 
two  rocky  islands :  and  two  miles  beyond  is  a 
second  great  fall,  oyer  a  ledge  of  rocks  twenty 
feet  high,  extending  nearly  from  shore  to  shore. 
The  riyer  is  again  compressed  into  a  channel  from 
fifty  to  a  hundred  feet  wide,  worn  through  a  rough 
bed  )i  hard  black  rock,  along  which  it  boil«  J 
roM's  with  great  fury  for  the  distance  of  .ai*ee 
miles.     This  is  called  "  The  Long  Narrows.** 

Here  is  the  great  fishing  place  of  the  Columbia. 
Tn  the  spring  of  the  year,  when  the  water  is  high, 
the  salmon  ascend  the  riyer  in  incredible  numbers. 
As  they  pass  through  this  narrow  strait,  the  In- 
dians, standing  on  the  rocks,  or  on  the  end  of 
wooden  stages  projecting  from  the  banks,  scoop 
them  up  with  small  nets  distended  on  hoops  and 
attached  to  long  handles,  and  cast  them  on  the 
shore. 

They  are  then  cured  and  packed  in  a  peculiar 
manner.  After  haying  been  opened  and  dis- 
emboweled, they  are  exposed  to  the  sun  on  scaffolds 
erected  on  the  riyer  banks.  When  sufficiently 
dry,  they  are  pounded  fine  between  two  stones, 
pressed  into  the  smallest  compass,  and  packed  in 
baskets  or  bales  of  grass  matting,  about  two  feet 
long  and  one  in  diameter,  lined  with  the  cured 
skin  of  a  salmon.  The  top  is  likewise  coyered 
with  fish  skins,  secured  by  cords  passing  through 
holes  in  the  edge  of  the  basket.  Packages  are 
then  made,  each  containing  twelye  of  these  balesj 
seven  at  bottom,  fiye  at  top,  pressed  close  to  each* 
other,  wi*h  the  corded  side  upward,  wrapped  in 
mats  and  corded      These  are  placed  in  dry  situa- 


114 


ASTORIA. 


iions,  and  again  covered  with  matting.  Each  of 
these  packages  contains  from  ninety  to  a  hundred 
pounds  of  dried  fish,  which  in  this  state  will  keep 
«oand  for  several  years.^ 

We  have  given  this  process  at  some  length,  aa 
furnished  by  the  first  explorers,  because  it  marks 
a  practiced  ingenuity  in  preparing  articles  of  traf- 
fic for  a  market,  seldom  seen  among  our  aboriginals. 
For  like  reasons  we  would  make  especial  mention 
of  the  village  of  Wish-ram,  at  the  head  of  the 
Long  Narrows,  as  being  a  solitary  instance  of  an 
aboriginal  trading  mart,  or  emporium.  Here  the 
salmon  caught  in  the  neighboring  rs^ids  were 
"warehoused,"  to  await  customers.  Hither  the 
tribes  from  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  repaired 
with  the  fish  of  the  sea-coast,  the  roots,  berries, 
and  especially  the  wappatoo,  gathered  in  the  lower 
parts  of  the  river,  together  with  goods  and  trink- 
ets obtained  fi'om  the  ships  which  casually  visit 
the  coast.  HiUier  also  the  tribes  from  the  Rocky 
Mountains  brought  down  horses,  bear-grass,  quam- 
ash,  and  other  commodities  of  the  interior. 
The  merchant  fishermen  at  the  falls  acted  as 
middlemen  or  Actors,  and  passed  the  objects  of 
traffic,  as  it  were,  cross-handed ;  trading  away  part 
of  the  wares  received  from  the  mountain  tribes 
to  those  of  the  river  and  the  plains,  and  vice  verm  : 
their  packages  of  pounded  salmon  entered  largely 
into  the  system  of  barter,  and  being  carried  off  in 
opposite  directions,  found  their  way  to  the  savage 
4iunting  camps  far  in  the  interior,  and  to  the  cas- 
ual white  traders  who  touched  upon  the  coast. 

^  Lewis  and  Clarke,  vol.  ii.  p.  32. 


INDIAN  FISHING   MART. 


115 


rice  verm : 


We  have  already  noticed  certain  contrarieties 
of  character  between  the  Indian  tribes,  produced 
by  their  diet  and  mode  of  life ;  and  nowhere  are 
they  more  apparent  than  about  the  falls  of  the 
Columbia,  The  Indians  of  this  great  fishing  mart 
are  represented  by  the  earliest  explorers  as  sleeker 
and  fatter,  but  less  hardy  and  active,  than  the 
tribes  of  the  mountains  and  the  prairies,  who  live 
by  hunting,  or  of  the  upper  parts  of  the  river, 
where  fish  is  scanty,  and  the  inhabitants  must  eke 
out  their  subsistence  by  digging  roots  or  chasing 
the  deer.  Indeed,  whenever  an  Indian  of  the 
upper  country  is  too  lazy  to  hunt,  yet  is  fond  of 
good  living,  he  repairs  to  the  faUs,  to  live  in 
abundance  without  labor. 

"By  such  worthless  dogs  as  these,"  says  an 
honest  trader  in  his  journal,  which  now  lies  before 
us,  "  by  such  worthless  dogs  as  these  are  these 
noted  fishing-places  peopled,  which,  like  our  great 
cities,  may  with  propriety  be  called  the  head- 
quarters of  vitiated  principles." 

The  habits  of  trade  and  the  avidity  of  gain 
have  their  corrupting  effects  even  in  the  wilderness, 
as  may  be  instanced  in  the  members  of  this 
aboriginal  emporium ;  for  the  same  journalist  de- 
nounces them  as  "  saucy,  impudent  rascais,  who 
will  steal  when  they  can,  and  pillage  whenever  a 
weak  party  fells  in  their  power." 

That  he  does  not  belie  them  will  be  evidenced 
hereafter,  when  we  have  occasion  ag^  to  touch 
at  Wish-ram  and  navigate  the  rapids.  In  the 
present  instance  the  travellers  effected  the  laborious 
ascent  of  this  part  of  the  river,  with  all  its  various 


ill 


116 


ASTORIA. 


portages,  without  molestation,  and  once  more 
launched  away  in  smooth  water  above  the  high  falls. 

The  two  parties  continued  together,  witliout 
material  impediment,  for  three  or  four  hundred 
miles  further  up  the  Columbia ;  Mr.  Thompson 
appearing  to  take  great  interest  in  the  success  of 
Mr.  Stuart,  and  pointing  out  places  favorable,  as 
he  said,  to  the  establishment  of  his  contemplated 
trading  post 

Mr.  Stuart,  who  distrusted  his  sincerity,  at 
length -pretended  to  adopt  his  advice,  and,  taking 
leave  of  him,  remained  as  if  to  establish  himself, 
while  the  other  proceeded  on  his  course  towards 
the  mountains.  No  sooner,  however,  had  he  fairly 
departed  than  Mr.  Stuart  again  pushed  forward, 
under  guidance  of  the  two  Indians,  nor  did  he  stop 
until  he  had  arrived  within  about  one  hundred 
and  forty  miles  of  the  Spokan  River,  which  he 
considered  near  enough  to  keep  the  rival  establish- 
ment in  check. 

The  place  which  he  pitched  upon  for  his 
trading  post  was  a  point  of  land  about  three 
miles  in  length  and  two  in  breadth,  formed  by 
the  junction  of  the  Oakinagan  with  the  Colum- 
bia. The  former  is  a  river  which  has  its  source 
in  a  considerable  lake  about  one  hundred  and 
fifty  miles  west  of  the  point  of  junction.  The 
two  rivers,  about  the  place  of  their  confluence, 
are  bordered  by  immense  prairies  covered  with 
herbage,  but  destitute  of  trees.  The  point  itself 
was  ornamented  with  wild  flowers  of  every  hue, 
in  which  innumerable  humming-birds  were  "  ban- 
queting nearly  the  livelong  day." 


MOUTn  OF   THE  OAK  IN  AG  AN. 


J17 


ce   more 


ITie  flituation  of  this  point  appeared  to  be  weU 
adapted  for  a  trading  post.  The  climate  wus 
salubrious,  the  soil  fertile,  the  rivers  well  stocked 
with  fish,  the  natives  peaceable  and  friendly. 
There  were  easy  communications  with  the  interior 
by  the  upper  waters  of  the  Columbia  and  the 
lateral  stream  of  the  Oakinagan,  while  the  down- 
ward current  of  the  Columbia  furnished  a  high- 
way to  Astoria. 

Availing  himself,  therefore,  of  the  driftwood 
which  had  collected  iu  quantities  in  the  neigh- 
boring bends  of  the  river,  Mr.  Stuart  and  his 
men  set  to  work  to  erect  a  hruse,  which  in  a 
little  while  was  sufficiently  completed  for  their 
residence ;  and  thus  was  •established  the  first  in- 
terior post  of  the  company.  We  will  now  return 
to  notice  the  progress  of  affairs  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Columbia. 


"^^ 
•v 


'  I 


■  I 


I       ! 


CHAPTER  XI. 

H£  sailing  of  the  Tonquin,  and  the  de 
parture  of  Mr.  David  Stuart  and  his 
detachment, .  had  produced  a  striking 
e^ect  on  affairs  at  Astoria.  The  natives  who  had 
swarmed  about  the  place  began  immediately  to 
drop  off,  until  at  length  not  an  Indian  was  to  be 
seen.  This,  at  first,  was  attributed  to  the  want 
of  peltries  with  which 'to  trade;  but  in  a  little 
while  the  mystery  was  explained  in  a  more 
alarming  manner.  A  conspiracy  was  said  to  be 
on  foot  among  the  neighboring  tribes  to  make  a 
combined  attack  upon  the  white  men,  now  that 
they  were  so  reduced  in  number.  For  this  pur- 
pose there  had  been  a  gathering  of  warriors  in  a 
neighboring  bay,  under  pretext  of  fishing  for 
sturgeon ;  and  fleets  of  canoes  were  expected  to 
join  them  from  the  north  and  south.  Even 
Comcomly,  the  one-eyed  chief,  notwithstanding 
his  professed  friendship  for  Mr.  M'Dougal,  was 
strongly  suspected  of  being  concerned  in  this 
general  combination. 

Alariaed  at  rumors  of  this  impending  danger, 
the  Astorians  suspended  their  regular  labor,  and 
set  to  work,  with  all  haste,  to  throw  up  tem- 
porary works  for  refuge  and  defense.  In  the 
course  of  a  few  days  they  surrounded  their  dwel- 


ALARMING  RUM0R8. 


\1^ 


Img-house  and  magazines  with  a  picket  fence 
ninety  feet  square,  Hanked  by  two  bastions,  on 
which  were  moanted  four  four-pounders.  Every 
day  they  exercised  themsexves  in  the  use  of  their 
weapons,  so  as  to  qualify  themselvee  for  military 
duty,  and  at  night  ensconced  themselves  in  their 
fortress  and  posted  sentinels,  to  guard  against 
surprise.  In  this  way  they  hoped,  even  in  case 
of  attack,  to  be  able  to  hold  out  until  the  arrival 
of  the  party  to  be  conducted  by  Mr.  Hunt  across 
the  Rocky  Mountains,  or  until  the  return  of  thd 
Tonquin.  The  latter  dependence,  however,  was 
doomed  soon  to  be  destroyed.  Early  in  August, 
a  wandering  band  of  savages  from  the  Strait  of 
Juan  de  Fuca,  made  their  appearance  at  th6 
mottth  of  the  Columbia,  where  they  came  to  fish 
for  sturgeon.  They  brought  disastrous  accounttt 
of  the  Tonquin,  which  were  at  first  treated  as 
mere  fables,  but  which  were  too  sadly  confirmed 
by  a  difierent  tribe  that  arrived  a  few  days  0tib-^ 
sequently.  We  shall  relate  the  circumstances  of 
this  melancholy  affair  as  correctly  as  the  casual 
discrepancies  in  the  statements  that  have  readied 
OS  will  permit. 

We  have  already  stated  that  the  Tonquin  set 
sail  from  the  mouth  of  the  river  on  the  fifth  of 
June.  The  whole  number  of  persons  on  board 
amcmnted  to  twenty-three.  In  one  of  the  outer 
bays  they  picked  up,  from  a  fishing  canoe,  an 
Indian  named  Lamazee,  who  had  already  made 
two  voyages  along  the  coast,  and  knew  some- 
thing of  the  language  of  the  various  tribes.  H« 
agreed  to  accompany  them  as  interpreter. 


'T 


120 


AST  OB  J  A. 


Steeriug  to  the  uorth,  Captaia  Thorn  ai'rived  in 
a  few  days  at  Vancouver's  Island,  and  anchored 
in  the  harbor  of  Neweetee,  very  much  against 
the  advice  of  his  Indian  interpreter,  who  warned 
him  against  the  perfidious  character  of  the  na- 
tives of  this  part  of  the  coast  Numbers  of 
canoes  soon  came  off,  bringing  sea-otter  skins  to 
sell.  It  was  too  late  in  the  day  to  commence  a 
traffic,  but  Mr.  M'Kay,  accompanied  by  a  few  of 
the  men,  went  on  shore  to  a  large  village  to  visit 
Wicananish,  the  chief  of  the  surrounding  terri- 
tory, six  of  the  natives  remaining  on  board  as 
hostages.  He  was  received  with  great  profes- 
sions of  friendship,  entertained  hospitably,  and  a 
couch  of  sea-otter  skins  was  prepared  for  him  in 
the  dwelling  of  the  chieftain,  where  he  was  pre- 
vailed upon  to  pass  the  night. 

In  the  morning,  before  Mr.  M'Kay  had  re- 
turned to  the  ship,  great  numbers  of  Uie  natives 
came  off  in  their  canoes  to  trade,  headed  by  two 
sons  of  Wicananish.  As  they  brought  abun- 
dance of  sea-otter  skins,  and  there  was  every 
appearance  of  a  brisk  trade.  Captain  Thorn  did 
not  wait  for  the  return  of  Mr.  M'Kay,  but  spread 
his  wares  upon  deck,  making  a  tempting  display 
of  blankets,  cloths,  knives,  beads,  and  fish-hooks, 
expecting  a  prompt  and  profitable  sale.  The 
Indians,  however,  were  not  so  eager  and  simple 
as  he  had  supposed,  having  learned  the  art  of 
bargaining  and  the  value  of  merchandise  from 
the  casual  traders  along  the  coast.  They  were 
guided,  too,  by  a  shrewd  old  chief  named  Noo- 
kamis,  who  had  grown  gray  in  tialfic  with  New 


A  DEADLY  INSULT. 


121 


England  skippers,  and  prided  himself  upon  his 
acuteness.  His  opinion  seemed  to  regulate  the 
market.  When  Captain  Thorn  made  what  he 
considered  a  liberal  offer  for  an  otter-skin,  the 
wily  old  Indian  treated  it  with  scorn,  and  asked 
more  than  double.  His  comrades  all  took  their 
cue  from  him,  and  not  an  otter-skin  was  to  be 
had  at  a  reasonable  rate. 

The  old  fellow,  however,  overshot  his  mark, 
and  mistook  the  character  of  the  man  he  wad 
treating  with.  Thorn  was  a  plain,  straightfor- 
ward sailor,  who  never  had  two  minds  nor  two 
prices  in  his  dealings,  was  deficient  in  patience 
and  pliancy,  and  totally  wanting  in  the  chicanery 
of  traffic.  He  had  a  vast  deal  of  stem,  but 
honest  pride  in  his  nature,  and,  moreover,  held 
the  whole  savage  race  in  sovereign  contempt. 
Abandoning  all  further  attempts,  therefore,  to 
bargain  with  his  shuffling  customers,  he  thrust 
his  hands  into  his  pockets,  and  paced  up  and 
down  the  deck  in  sullen  silence.  The  cunning 
old  Indian  followed  him  to  and  fro,  holding  out 
a  sea-otter  skin  to  him  at  every  turn,  and  pester- 
ing him  to  trade.  Finding  other  means  unavail- 
ing, he  suddenly  changed  his  tone,  and  began  to 
jeer  and  banter  him  upon  the  mean  prices  he 
offered.  This  was  too  much  for  the  patience  of 
the  captain,  who  was  never  remarkable  for  relish 
ing  a  joke,  especially  when  at  his  own  expense. 
Turning  suddenly  upon  his  persecutor,  he 
snatched  the  proffered  otter-skin  from  hia 
nands,  rubbed  it  in  his  face,  and  dismissed  him 
over  the  side  of  the  ship  with  no  very  compli- 


122 


ASTORIA, 


I     : 


mentarj  application  to  accelerate  his  exit.  He 
then  kicked  the  peltries  to  the  right  and  left 
about  the  deck,  and  broke  ap  the  market  in  the 
most  ignominious  maenner.  Old  Nookamis  made 
for  shore  in  a  ftirious  passion,  in  which  he  was 
joined  by  Shewish,  one  of  the  sons  of  Wicana- 
nish,  who  went  off  breathing  vengeance,'  and  the 
sliip  was  soon  abandoned  by  the  natives. 

When  Mr.  M*Kay  returned  on  board,  the  in- 
terpreter related  what  had  passed,  and  begged 
him  to  prevail  upon  the  captain  to  make  sail,  asf, 
from  his  knowledge  of  the  temper  and  pride  of 
the  people  of  the  place,  he  was  sure  they  would 
resent  the  indignity  offered  to  one  of  their  chiefs. 
Mr.  M'Kay,  who  himself  possessed  some  experi* 
ence  of  Indian  character,  went  to  the  captain, 
who  was  still  pacing  the  deck  in  moddy  humor, 
represented  the  danger  to  which  his  hasty  act 
had  exposed  the  vessel,  and  urged  him  to  weigh 
anchor.  The  captain  made  light  of  his  counsels, 
and  pointed  to  his  cannon  and  fire-armd  as  a  suf- 
ficient safeguard  against  naked  savages.  Fur- 
ther remonstrances  only  provoked  taunting  re- 
plies and  sharp  altercations.  The  day  passed 
away  without  any  signs  of  hostility,  and  at  night 
the  captain  retired  as  usual  to  his  cabin,  taking 
no  more  than  the  usual  precautions. 

On  the  following  morning,  at  daybreak,  wliile 
the  captain  and  Mr.  M'Kay  were  yet  asleep,  a 
canoe  came  alongside  in  which  were  twenty 
Indians,  commanded  by  young  Shewish.  They 
were  unarined,  their  aspect  and  demeanor  friend- 
ly, and  they  held  up  otter-skins,  and  made  signs 


INDIANS   THRONG   THE  SHIP. 


uh 


Indicative  of  a  wish  to  trade.  The  caution  en- 
joined bv  Mr.  Astor,  in  respect  to  the  admission  of 
Indians  on  board  of  the  ship,  had  been  neglected 
for  some  time  past,  and  the  officer  of  the  watch,  per* 
ceiving  those  in  the  canoe  to  be  witliout  weapons, 
and  having  received  no  orders  to  the  contrary, 
readily  permitted  them  to  mount  the  deck. 
Another  canoe  soon  succeeded,  the  crew  of 
which  was  likewise  admitted.  In  a  little  while! 
other  canoes  came  off,  and  Indians  were  soon 
clambering  into  the  vessel  on  all  sides. 

The  officer  of  the  watch  now  felt  alarmed,  and 
called  to  Captain  Tliorn  and  Mr.  M'Kay.  By 
the  time  they  came  on  deck,  it  was  thronged 
with  Indians.  The  interpreter  noticed  to.  Mr. 
M'Kay  that  many  of  the  natives  Wore  short 
mantles  of  skins,  and  intimated  a  suspicion  that 
they  were  secretly  armed.  Mr.  M'Kay  urged 
the  captain  to  clear  the  ship  and  get  unJer  way. 
He  again  made  light  of  the  advice;  but  the 
augmented  swarm  of  canoes  about  the  ship,  and 
the  numbers .  still  putting  off  from  shore,  at 
length  awakened  his  distrust,  and  he  ordered 
some  of  the  crew  to  weigh  anchor,  while  some 
were  sent  alofb  to  make  sail. 

The  Indians  now  offered  to  trade  with  the 
captain  on  his  own  terms,  prompted,  apparently, 
by  the  approaching  departure  of  the  ship.  Ac- 
cordingly, a  hurried  trade  was  commenced.  The 
main  articles  sought  by  the  savages  in  barter, 
were  knives ;  as  fast  as  some  were  supplied  they 
moved  off,  and  others  succeeded.  By  degrees 
they  were  thus  distributed  about  th(3  deck,  and  all 
wiUi  weapons. 


124 


ASTORIA. 


The  anchor  was  now  nearly  up,  the  sails  were 
loose,  and  the  captain,  in  a  loud  and  peremptory 
tone,  ordered  the  ship  to  be  cleaned.  In  an  in* 
stant,  a  signal  yell  was  given ;  it  was  echoed  on 
every  side,  knives  and  war-dubs  were  brandished 
in  every  direction,  and  the  savages  rushed  upon 
their  marked  victims. 

The  first  that  fell  was  Mr.  Lewis,  the  ship's 
clerk.  He  was  leaning,  with  folded  arms,  over  a 
bale  of  blankets,  engaged  in  bargaining,  when  he 
received  a  deadly  stab  in  the  back,  and  fell  down 
the  companion-way. 

Mr.  M'Kay,  who  was  seated  on  the  taffrail, 
sprang  on  his  feet,  but  was  instantly  knocked 
down  with  a  war-club  and  fiung  backwards  into 
the  sea,  where  he  was  dispatched  by  the  Wvomen 
in  the  canoes. 

In  the  meantime  Captain  Thorn  made  desper- 
ate figh^  against  fearful  odds.  He  was  a  power- 
ful as  well  as  a  resolute  man,  but  he  had  come 
upon  deck  without  weapons.  Shewish,  the  young 
chief,  singled  him  out  as  his  peculiar  prey,  and 
rushed  upon  him  at  the  first  outbreak.  The  cap- 
tain had  barely  time  to  draw  a  clasp-knife,  with 
one  blow  of  which  he  laid  the  young  savage  dead 
at  his  feet  Several  of  the  stoutest  followers  of 
Shewish  now  set  upon  him.  He  defended  him- 
self vigorously,  dealing  crippling  blows  to  right 
and  left,  and  strewing  the  quarter-deck  with  the 
slain  and  wounded.  His  object  was  to  fight  his 
way  to  the  cabin,  where  there  were  fire-arms ; 
but  he  was  hemmed  in  with  foes,  covered  with 
irounds,  and  faint  vHth  loss  of  blood.     For  ao 


MASSACRE  OF  THE  CREW, 


125 


instant  he  leaned  upon  the  tiller  wheel,  when  a 
blow  from  behind,  with  a  war-club,  felled  him  to 
the  deck,  where  he  was  dispatched  with  knives 
and  thrown  overboard. 

While  this  was  transacting  upon  the  quarter- 
deck, a  chance-medley  fight  was  going  on  through-, 
out  the  ship.  The  crew  fought  desperately  with 
knives,  handspikes,  and  whatever  weapon  they 
could  seize  upon  in  the  moment  of  surprise. 
They  were  soon,  however,  overpowered  by  num- 
bers, and  mercilessly  butchered. 

As  to  the  seven  who  had  been  sent  aloft  to 
make  sail,  they  contemplated  with  horror  the 
carnage  that  was  going  on  below.  Being  desti- 
tute of  weapons,  they  let  themselves  down  by  the 
running  rigging,  in  hopes  of  getting  between 
decks.  One  fell  in  the  attempt,  and  was  in- 
stantly dispatched ;  another  received  a  death- 
blow in  the  back  as  he  was  descending ;  a  third, 
Stephen  Weekes,  the  armorer,  was  mortally 
wounded  as  he  was  getting  down  the  hatch- 
way. 

The  remaining  four  made  good  their  retreat 
into  the  cabin,  where  they  found  Mr.  Lewis,  still 
alive,  though  mortally  wounded.  Barricading  the 
cabin  door,  they  broke  holes  through  the  com- 
panion-way, and,  with  the  muskets  and  ammuni- 
tion which  were  at  hand,  opened  a  brisk  fire  that 
Booif  cleared  the  deck. 

Thus  far  the  Indian  interpreter,  from  whom 
these  particulars  are  derived,  had  been  an  eye- 
witness to  the  deadly  conflict.  He  had  taken  no 
part  in  it,  «nd  had  been  spared  by  the  natives  as 


126 


ASTORfA. 


being  of  their  race.  In  the  confusion  of  the  mo« 
ment  he  took  refuge  with  the  rest,  in  the  cauoes 
The  survivors  of  the  crew  now  sallied  forth,  and 
discharged  some  of  the  deck  guns,  which  did  great 
execution  among  the  canoes,  and  drove  all  the 
savages  to  shore. 

For  the  remainder  of  the  day  no  one  ventured 
to  put  off  to  the  ship,  deterred  by  the  effects  of 
the  fire>arms.  The  night  passed  away  without 
any  further  attempt  on  the  part  of  the  natives. 
When  the  day  dawned,  the  Tonquin  still  lay  at 
Anchor  in  the  bay,  her  sails  all  loose  and  flap- 
ping in  the  wind,  and  no  one  apparently  on  board 
of  her.  After  a  time,  some  of  the  canoes  ven- 
tured forth  to  reconnoitre,  taking  with  them  the 
interpreter.  They  paddled  about  her,  keeping 
cautiously  at  a  distance,  but  growing  more  and 
more  emboldened  at  seeing  her  quiet  and  lifeless. 
One  man  at  length  made  his  appearance  on  the 
deck,  aod  was  rocos^ized  by  the  interpreter  as 
Mr.  Lewis.  He  mauj  friendly  signs,  and  invited 
them  on  board.  It  was  long  before  they  ven- 
tured to  comply.  Those  who  mounted  the  deck 
met  with  no  opposition ;  no  one  was  to  be  seen 
on  board;  for  Mr.  Lewis,  after  inviting  them, 
had  disappeared.  Other  canoes  now  pressed  fbr.- 
ward  to  board  the  prize  ;  the  decks  were  soon 
ciowded,  and  the  sides  covered  with  clambering 
savages,  all  intent  on  plunder.  In  the  midst  of 
their  eagerness  and  exultation,  the  ship  blew  up 
with  a  tremendous  explosion.  Arms,  legs,  and 
mutilated  bodies  were  blown  into  the  air,  and 
jdreaiiful  havoc   was   made   in   the   surrounding 


THE   UNFORTUNATE  FUGITIVES,        127 


canoes.  The  interpreter  was  in  the  main-chains 
at  the  time  of  the  explosion,  and  was  thrown 
unhurt  into  the  water,  where  he  succeeded  in 
getting  into*  one  of  the  canoes.  According  to 
his  statement,  the  bay  presented  an  awful  specta- 
cle after  the  catastrophe.  The  ship  had  disap- 
peared, but  the  bay  was  covered  with  fragments 
of  the  wreck,  with  shattered  canoes,  and  Indians 
swimming  for  their  lives,  or  struggling  in  the 
agonies  of  death ;  while  those  who  had  escapv^d 
the  danger  remained  aghast  and  stupefied,  or 
made  with  frantic  panic  for  the  shore.  Upwards 
of  a  hundred  savages  were  destroyed  by^the  ex- 
plosion, many  more  were  shockingly  mutilated, 
and  for  days  afterwards  the  limbs  and  bodies  of 
tiie  slain  were  thrown  upon  the  beach. 

The  inhabitants  of  Neweetee  were  over- 
whelmed with  consternation  at  this  astounding 
calamity,  which  had  burst  upon  them  in  the'  very 
moment  of  triumph.  The  warriors  sat  mute  and 
mournfiil,  while  the  women  filled  the  air  with 
loud  lamentations.  Their  weeping  and  wailing, 
however,  was  suddenly  changed  into  yells  of  fury 
at  the  sight  of  four  unfortunate  white  men, 
brought  captive  into  the  village.  They  had  been 
driven  on  shore  in  one  of  the  ship's  boats,  and 
taken  at  some  distance  along  the  coast. 

The  interpreter  wi  ^  permitted  to  converse 
with  them.  They  proved  to  be  the  four  brave 
fellows  who  had  made  such  desperate  defense 
from  the  cabin.  The  interpreter  gathered  from 
them  some  of  the  particulars  already  related. 
They  told  him  further,  that  after  they  had  beaten 


'!  i 


US 


ASTORIA. 


off  the  enemy  and  cleared  the  ship,  Lewis  ad- 
vrised  that  they  should  slip  the  cable  and  endeavor 
to  get  to  sea.  They  declined  to  take  his  advice, 
alleging  that  the  wind  set  too  strongly  into  the 
bay,  and  would  drive  them  on  shore.  They  re- 
solved, as  soon  as  it  was  dark,  to  put  off  quietly 
in  the  ship's  boat,  which  they  wou)d  he  able  to 
do  unperceived,  and  to  coast  along  back  to  As- 
toria. They  put  their  resolution  into  effect ;  but 
Lewis  refused  to  accompany  them,  being  disabled 
by  his  wound,  hopeless  of  escape,  and  determined 
on  a  terrible  revenge.  On  the  voyage  out,  ha 
had  repeatedly  expressed  a  presentiment  that  he 
should  die  by  his  own  hands ;  thinking  it  highly 
probable  that  he  should  be  engaged  in  some  con- 
test with  the  natives,  and  being  resolved,  in  case 
of  extremity,  to  commit  suicide  rather  than  be 
made  a  prisoT^er.  He  now  declared  his  intention 
to  remain  oi  board  of  the  ship  until  daylight,  to 
decoy  as  many  of  the  savages  on  board  as  pos- 
sible, then  to  set  fire  to  the  powder  magazine, 
and  terminate  his  life  by  a  signal  act  of  venge- 
ance. How  well  he  succeeded  has  been  shown. 
His  companions  bade  him  a  melancholy  adieu, 
and  set  off  on  their  precarious  expedition.  They 
strove  ^vith  might  and  main  to  get  out  of  the 
bay,  but  found  it  impossible  to  weather  a  point 
of  land,  and  were  at  length  compelled  to  take 
shelter  in  a  small  cove,  where  they  hoped  to  re- 
main concealed  until  the  wind  should  be  more 
favorable.  Exhausted  by  fatigue  and  watching, 
they  fell  into  a  sound  sleep,  and  in  that  state 
were  suiprised  by  the  savages.     Better  had  it 


ERRORS   OF  CAPTAIN   THORN. 


129 


been  for  those  unfortunate  men  had  thej  re- 
mained with  Lewis,  and  shared  his  heroic  death : 
as  it  was,  they  perished  in  a  more  painful  and 
protracted  manner,  being  sacrificed  by  the  natives 
to  the  manes  of  their  friends  with  all  the  linger- 
ing tortures  of  savage  cruelty.  Some  time  after 
their  death,  the  interpreter,  who  had  remained  a 
kind  of  prisoner  at  large,  effected  his  escape,  and 
brought  the  tragical  tidings  to  Astoria. 

Such  is  the  melancholy  story  of  the  Tonquln, 
and  such  was  the  fate  of  her  brave,  but  head- 
strong commander,  and  her  adventurous  crew. 
It  is  a  catastrophe  that  shows  the  importance, 
in  all  enterprises  of  mc^ment,  to  keep  in  mind  the 
general  instructions  of  the  sagacious  heads  which 
devise  them.  Mr.  Astor  was  well  aware  of  the 
perils  to  which  ships  were  exposed  on  this  coast 
from  quarrels  with  the  natives,  and  from  perfidi- 
ous attempts  of  the  latter  to  surprise  and  capture 
them  in  unguarded  moments.  He  had  repeat- 
edly enjoined  it  upon  Captain  Thorn,  in  conver- 
sation, and  at  parting,  in  his  letter  of  instructions, 
to  be  courteous  and  kind  in  his  dealings  with  the 
savages,  but  by  no  means  to  confide  in  their  ap- 
parent friendship,  nor  to  admit  more  than  a  few 
on  board  of  his  ship  at  a  time. 

Had  the  deportment  of  Captain  Thorn  been 
properly  regulated,  the  insult  so  wounding  to 
savage  pride  would  never  have  been  given.  Had 
be  enforced  the  rule  to  admit  but  a  few  at  a  time, 
the  savages  would  not  have  been  able  to  get  the 
mastery.  He  was  too  irritable,  however,  to  prac- 
tice the  necessary  self-command,  and,  having  been 
9 


'■A'' 


1     ' 

1 

1 

!   f 

B 

1 

j- 

\ 

M 

■i  1 

180 


ASTORIA. 


nortured  in  a  proud  contempt  of  danger,  tliought 
it  beneath  him  to  manifest  any  fear  of  a  crew  of 
unarmed  savages. 

With  all  his  faults  and  foibles,  we  cannot  but 
speak  of  him  with  esteem,  and  deplore  his  un- 
timely fate ;  for  we  remember  him  well  in  early 
life,  as  a  companion  in  pleasant  scenes  and  joyous 
'hours.  When  on  shore,  among  his  friends,  he 
was  a  frank,  manly,  sound-hearted  sailor.  On 
board  ship  he  evidently  assumed  the  hardness  of 
deportment  and  sternness  of  demeanor  which 
many  deem  essential  to  naval  service.  Through- 
out the  whole  of  the  expedition,  however,  he 
showed  himself  loyal,  single-minded,  straightfor- 
ward, and  fearless ;  and  if  the  fate  of  his  vessel 
may  be  charged  to  his  harshness  and  imprudence, 
we  should  recollect  that  he  paid  for  his  error  with 
his  life. 

The  loss  of  the  Tonquin  was  a  grievous  blow 
to  the  infant  establishment  of  Astoria,  and  one 
that  threatened  to  bring  after  it  a  train  of  disas- 
ters. The  intelligence  of  it  did  not  reach  Mr. 
Astor  until  many  months  afterwards.  He  felt 
it  in  all  its  force,  and  was  aware  that  it  must 
cripple,  if  not  entirely  defeat,  the  great  scheme 
of  his  ambition.  In  his  letteis,  written  at  the 
time,  he  speaks  of  it  as  ^  a  calatoity,  the  length 
of  which  he  could  not  foresee."  He  indulged, 
however,  in  no  weak  and  vain  lamentation,  but 
sought  to  devise  a  prompt  and  efficient  remedy., 
The  very  same  evening  he  appeared  at  the  thea- 
tre with  his  usual  serenity  of  countenance.  A 
friend,  who  knew  Uie  disastrous  intelligence  he 


CALMNESS   OF  MR.  AST  OR. 


181 


had  received,  expressed  his  astonishment  that  he 
could  have  calmness  of  sph'lt  sufHcient  for  such 
a  scene  of  light  amusement.  **  What  would  jou 
have  me  do  ?"  was  his  characteristic  reply ;  "  would 
you  have  me  stay  at  home  and  weep  for  what  I 
nunot  help  ?  ** 


HI 


I 

I 


CHAPTER  XII 

I  HE  tidings  of  the  loss  of  the  Tonquin, 
and  the  massacre  of  her  crew,  struck 
dismay  into  the  hearts  of  the  Astorians. 
They  found  themselves  a  mere  handful  of  men, 
on  a  savage  coast,  surrounded  by  hostile  tribes, 
who  would  doubtless  be  in^-ited  and  encouraged 
to  deeds  of  violence  by  the  late  fearful  catastrophe. 
In  this  juncture  Mr.  M'Dougal,  we  are  told,  had 
recourse  to  a  stratagem  by  which  to  avail  himself 
of  the  ignorance  and  credulity  of  the  savages,  and 
which  certainly  does  credit  to  his  ingenuity. 

The  natives  of  the  coast,  and,  indeed,  of  all 
the  regions  west  of  the  mountains,  had  an  extreme 
dread  of  the  small-pox  ;  that  terrific  scourge  hav- 
ing, a  few  years  previously,  appeared  among  them, 
and  almpst  swept  off  entire  tribes.  Its  origin 
and  nature  were  wrapped  in  mystery,  and  they 
conceived  it  an  evil  inflicted  upon  them  by  the 
Great  Spirit,  or  brought  among  them  by  the 
white  men.  The  last  idea  was  seized  upon  by 
Mr.  M'Dougal.  He  assembled  several  of  the 
chieftains  whom  he  believed  to  be  in  the  conspir- 
acy. When  they  were  all  seated  around,  he 
informed  them  that  he  had  heard  of  the  treach- 
ery of  some  of  their  northern  brethren  towards 
the  Tonquin,  and  was  determined  on  vengeance. 


THE  GREAT  8 MALL-POX  CHIEF.        133 


^n  vengeance. 


•*  The  white  men  among  you,"  said  he*,  "  are  few 
in  number,  it  is  true,  but  they  are  mighty  in 
medicine.  See  here,"  continued  he,  drawing 
forth  a  small  bottle  and  holding  it  before  their 
eyes,  "  in  this  bottle  I  hold  the  small-pox,  safely 
corked  up  ;  I  have  but  to  draw  the  cork,  and  let 
loose  the  pestilence,  to  sweep  man,  woman,  and 
child  from  the  face  of  the  earth." 

The  chiefs  were  struck  with  horror  and  alarm. 
They  implored  him  not  to  uncork  the  bottle, 
since  they  and  all  their  people  were  firm  friends 
of  the  white  men,  and  would  always  remain  so ; 
but,  should  the  small-pox  be  once  let  out,  it  would 
run  like  wildfire  throughout  the  country,  sweeping 
off  the  good  as  well  as  the  bad  ;  and  surely  he 
would  not  be  so  unjust  as  to  punish  his  friends 
for  crimes  committed  by  his  enemies. 

Mr.  M'Dougal  prjtended  to  be  convinced  by 
their  reasoning,  and  assured  them  that,  so  long  as 
the  white  people  should  be  unmolested,  and  the 
conduct  of  their  Indian  neighbors  friendly  and 
hospitable,  the  phial  of  wrath  should  remain 
sealed  up ;  but,  on  the  least  hostility,  the  fatal 
cork  should  be  drawn. 

From  this  time,  it  is  added,  he  was  much 
dreaded  by  the  natives,  as  one  who  held  their 
fate  in  his  hands,  and  was  called,  by  way  of 
preeminence,  "  the  Great  Small-pox  Chief." 

All  f.his  while,  the  labors  at  the  infant  settle* 
ment  v/ent  on  with  unremitting  assiduity,  and,  by 
the  26th  of  September,  a  commodious  mansion, 
spacious  enough  to  accommodate  all  hands,  was 
completed.     It  was  built  of  stone  and  clay,  tbeiti 


■   u 


I  :    11 


:li 


L 


184 


A8T0RIA. 


being  uo  Calcareous  stone  in  the  neighborhood 
from  which  lime  for  mortar  could  be  procured. 
The  schooner  was  also  finished,  and  launched, 
with  the  accustomed  ceremony,  on  the  second 
of  October,  and  took  her  station  below  the  fort 
She  was  named  the  Dolly,  and  was  the  first 
American  vessel  launched  on  this  coast. 

On  the  5th  of  October,  in  the  evening,  the 
little  community  at  Astoria  was  enlivened  by  the 
unexpected  arrival  of  a  detachment  from  Mr. 
David  Stuart's  post  on  the  Oakinagan.  It  con- 
sisted of  two  of  the  clerks  and  two  of  the 
privates.  They  brought  favorable  accounts  of 
the  new  establishment,  but  reported  that,  as  Mr. 
Stuart  was  apprehensive  there  might  be  a  diffi- 
culty of  subsisting  his  whole  party  throughout 
the  winter,  he  had  sent  one  half  back  to  Astoria, 
retaining  with  him  only  Ross,  Montigny,  and  two 
others.  Such  is  the  hardihood  of  the  Indian 
trader.  In  the  heart  of  a  savage  and  unknown 
country,  seven  hundred  miles  from  the  main 
body  of  his  fellow-adventurers,  Stuart  had  dis- 
missed half  of  his  little  number,  and  was  pre- 
pared with  the  residue  to  brave  all  the  perils  of 
the  wilderness,  and  the  rigora  of  a  long  and 
dreary  winter. 

With  the  return  party  came  a  Canadian  creole 
named  Regis  Brugiere  and  an  Iroquois  hunter, 
with  his  wife  and  two  children.  As  these  two 
personages  belong  to  certain  classes  which  have 
derived  their  peculiar  characteristics  from  the  fur 
trade,  we  deem  some  few  particulars  concerning 
thf^m  pertinent  to  the  nature  of  this  work. 


«  FREEMEN^ 


iSd 


neighborhood 

be  procured, 
iud  launched, 
in  the  second 
»elow  the  fort, 
was    the  first 

coast. 

evening,  the 
livened  by  the 
Bnt  from  Mr. 
gan.  It  con- 
[  two  of  the 
3  accounts  of 
d  that,  as  Mi. 
;ht  be  a  diffi- 
ty  throughout 
ick  to  Astoria, 
igny,  and  two 
f  the  Indian 
and  unknown 
)m  the  main 
uart  had  dis- 
Bnd  was  pre- 

the  perils  of 
a   long  and 

nadian  Creole 
quois  hunter, 
As  these  two 
which  have 
from  the  fur 
rs  concerning 
work. 


Brugiere  was  of  a  class  of  beaver  trappers 
and  hunters  technically  called  *'  Freemen,"  in  the 
language  of  the  traders.  They  are  generally 
Canadians  by  birth,  and  of  French  descent,  who 
have  been  employed  for  a  term  of  years  by  some 
fur  company^  but,  their  term  being  expired,  con^ 
tinue  to  hunt  and  trap  on  their  own  account, 
trading  with  the  company  like  the  Indians. 
Hence  they  derive  their  appellation  of  Freemen, 
to  distinguish  them  from  the  trappers  who  are 
bound  for  a  number  of  years,  and  receive  wages, 
or  hunt  on  shares. 

Having  passed  their  early  youth  in  the  wilder- 
ness, separated  almost  entirely  from  civilized  man, 
and  in  frequent  intercourse  with  the  Indians,  they 
relapse,  with  a  facility  common  to  human  nature, 
into  the  habitudes  of  savage  life.  Though  no 
longer  bound  by  engagements  to  continue  in  the 
interior,  they  have  become  so  accustomed  to  the 
freedom  of  the  forest  and  the  prairie,  that  they 
look  tack  with  repugnance  upon  the  restraints  of 
civilization.  Most  of  them  intermarry  with 
the  natives,  and,  like  the  latterj  have  often  a 
plurality  of  wives.  Wanderers  of  the  wildernessj 
according  to  the  vicissitudes  of  the  seasons,  the 
migrations  of  animals,  and  the  plenty  or  scarcity 
of  game,  they  lead  a  precarious  and  unsettled 
existence;  exposed  to  sun  and  storm,  and  all 
kinds  of  hardships,  until  they  resemble  Indians 
'•n  complexion  as  well  as  in  tastes  and  habits. 
From  time  to  time,  they  bring  the  peltries  they 
have  collected  to  the  trading  houses  of  the  com- 
pany in  whose  employ  they  have  been  brought 


— ,-i-'r 


136 


ASTORIA. 


'W  I 


! 


np.  Here  they  traffic  them  away  foi  sucli 
articles  of  merchandise  or  ammunition  as  they 
raay  stand  in  need  of.  At  the  time  when  Mon* 
treal  was  the  great  emporium  of  the  fur  trader, 
one  of  these  freemen  of  the  wilderness  would 
suddenly  return,  after  an  absence  of  many  years, 
among  his  old  friends  and  comrades.  He  would 
be  greeted  as  one  risen  from  the  dead ;  and  with 
the  greater  welcome,  as  he  returned  flush  of 
money.  A  short  time,  however,  spent  in  revelry, 
would  be  sufficient  to  drain  his  purse  and  sate 
him  with  civilized  life,  and  he  would  return  with 
new  relish  to  the  unshackled  freedom  of  the 
forest. 

Numbers  of  men  of  this  class  were  scattered 
throughout  the  northwest  ten*itories.  Some  of 
them  retained  a  little  of  the  thrift  and  forethought 
of  the  civilized  man,  and  became  wealthy  among 
their  improvident  neighboi*s ;  their  wealth  being 
chiefly  displayed  in  large  bands  of  horses,  which 
covered  the  prairies  in  the  vicinity  of  their  abodes. 
Most  of  them,  however,  were  prone  to  assimilate 
to  the  red  man  in  their  heedlessness  of  the  fu- 
ture. 

Such  was  Begis  Brugiere,  a  freeman  and  rover 
of  the  wilderness.  Having  been  brought  up  in 
the  service  of  the  Northwest  Company,  he  had 
followed  in  the  train  of  one  of  its  expeditions 
across  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  undertaken  to 
trap  for  the  trading  post  established  on  the 
Spokan  River.  In  the  course  of  his  hunting 
excursions  he  had  either  accidentally,  or  design- 
edly, found  his  way  to  the  post  of  Mr.  Stuart, 


HALF-CIVILIZED  INDIANS. 


137 


and   had    been  prevailed    upon    to    descend  the 
Columbia,  and  "  try  his  luck  "  at  Astoria. 

Ignace  Shonowane,  the  Iroquois  hunter,  was  a 
specimen  of  a  different  class.  He  was  one  of 
those  aboriginals  of  Canada  who  had  partially 
conformed  to  the  habits  of  civilization  and  the 
doctrines  of  Christianity,  under  the  influence  of 
the  French  colonists  and  the  Catholic  priests ; 
who  seem  generally  to  have  been  more  successful 
in  conciliating,  taming,  and  converting  the  sav- 
ages, than  their  English  and  Protestant  rivals. 
These  half-civilized  Indians  retained  some  of  the 
good,  and  many  of  the  evil  qualities  of  their 
original  stock.  They  were  first-rate  hunters, 
and  dexterous  in  the  management  of  the  canoe. 
They  could  undergo  great  privations,  and  were 
admirable  for  the  service  of  the  rivers,  lakes, 
and  forests,  provided  they  could  be  kept  sober, 
and  in  proper  subordination ;  but  once  inflamed 
with  liquor,  to  which  they  were  madly  addicted, 
all  the  dor  lant  passions  inherent  in  their  nature 
were  prone  to  break  forth,  and  to  hurry  them 
into  the  most  vindictive  and  bloody  acts  of 
violence. 

Though  they  generally  professed  the  Roman 
Catholic  religion,  yet  it  was  mixed,  occasionally, 
with  some  of  their  ancient  superstitions;  and 
they  retained  much  of  the  Indian  belief  in 
charms  and  omens.  Numbers  of  these  men 
were  employed  by  the  Northwest  Company  ai 
trappers,  hunters,  and  canoe  men,  but  on  lowei 
terms  than  were  allowed  to  white  men.  Ignace 
Shonowane  had,  in  ihb  way,  followed  the  enter« 


,.-—- (iPT' 


J38 


ASTORIA. 


prise  of  the  comp«nj  to  the  banks  of  the  Spokane 
being,  probably,  one  of  the  first  of  his  tribe  that 
had  traversed  the  Rocky  Mountaii::?. 

Such  were  some  of  the  motley  populace  of  the 
wilderness,  incident  to  the  fur  trade,  who  were 
gradually  attracted  to  tho  new  settlement  of 
Astoria. 

The  month  of  October  now  began  to  give 
indications  of  approaching  winter.  Hitherto,  the 
colonists  had  been  well  pleased  with  the  climate. 
The  summer  had  been  temperate,  the  mercury 
never  rising  above  eighty  degrees.  Westerly 
winds  had  prevailed  during  the  spring  and  the 
early  part  of  summer,  and  been  succeeded  by 
fresh  breezes  from  the  northwests  In  the  month 
of  October  the  southerly  winds  set  in,  bringing 
with  them  frequent  rain. 

The  Indians  now  began  to  quit  the  borders  of 
the  ocean,  and  to  retire  to  their  winter  quarters 
in  the  sheltered  bosom  of  the  forests,  or  along 
the  small  rivers  and  brooks.  The  rainy^  season, 
which  commences  in  October,  continues,  with 
little  intermission,  until  April ;  and  though  the 
winters  are  generally  mild,  the  mercury  seldom 
sinking  below  the  freezing  point,  yet  the  tempests 
of  wind  and  rain  are  terrible.  The  sun  is  some- 
times obscured  for  weeks,  the  brooks  swell  into 
roaring  torrents,  and  the  country  is  threatened 
with  a  deluge. 

The  departure  of  the  Indians  to  their  winter 
quarters  gradually  rendered  provisions  scanty, 
and  obliged  the  colonists  to  send  out  foraging 
expeditions  iu  the  Dolly.     Still  the  little  handful 


NEW  YEAR  FESTIVITIES. 


189 


of  adventurers  kept  up  their  spirits  in  their 
lonely  fort  at  Astoria,  looking  forward  to  tlie 
time  when  they  shou'^  be  animated  and  rein- 
forced by  the  party  under  Mr.  Hunt,  that  was 
to  come  to  them  across  the  Rocky  Mountains. 

Tlie  year  gradually  wore  away.  The  rain, 
which  had  poured  down  almost  incessantly  since 
the  first  of  October,  cleared  up  towards  the 
evening  of  the  31st  of  December,  and  the  morn- 
ing of  the  first  of  January  ushered  in  a  day  of 
sunshine. 

The  hereditary  Frencli  holiday  spirit  of  the 
French  voyageurs  is  hardly  to  be  f^epressed  by 
any  adversities ;  and  they  can  manage  to  get  up  a 
fete  in  the  most  squalid  situations,  and  under  the 
most  untoward  circumstances.  An  extra  allow- 
ance of  rum,  and  a  little  flour  to  make  cakes  and 
puddings,  constitute  a  "  regale  ;  "  and  they  forget 
all  their  toils  and  troubles  in  the  song  and  dance. 

On  the  present  occasion,  the  partners  endeav- 
ored to  celebrate  the  new  year  with  some  effect. 
At  sunrise  the  drums  beat  to  arms,  the  colore 
were  hoisted,  witli  three  rounds  of  small  arms 
and  three  discharges  of  cannon.  The  day  was 
devoted  to  games  of  agility  and  strength,  and 
other  amusements;  and  grog  was  temperately 
distributed,  together  with  bread,  butter,  and 
cheese.  The  best  dinner  their  circumstances 
could  afford*  was  served  up  at  midday.  At  sun 
set  the  colors  were  lov^^ered,  with  another  dis- 
charge of  artillery.  The  night  was  spent  in 
dancing  ;  and,  though  there  was  a  lack  of  female 
partners  to  excite  their  gallantry,  the  voyageura 


!  I    111 
:  i    iiiii 


140 


AST  OR  J  A. 


kept  up  the  ball  with  *true  French  spirit,  until 
three  o'clock  in  the  morning.  So  passed  the  new 
year  festival  of  1812  at  the  infant  colony  of 
Astoria. 


!J.L^  ii'lJflL'-  U'iitBJUUWiW 


CHAPTER  XIII. 


|E  have  followed  up  the  fortunes  of  the 
maritime  part  of  this  enterprise  to  the 
shores  of  the  Pacific,  and  have  con- 
ducted the  affairs  of  the  embryo  establishment  to 
the  opening  of  the  new  year  ;  let  us  now  turn  back 
to  the  adventurous  band  to  whom  was  intrusted 
the  land  expedition,  and  who  were  to  make  their 
way  to  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia,  up  vast 
rivers,  across  trackless  plains,  and  over  the  rug- 
ged barriers  of  the  Rocky  Mountains. 

The  conduct  of  this  expedition,  as  has  been 
already  mentioned,  was  assigned  to  Mr.  Wilson 
Price  Hunt,  of  Trenton,  New  Jersey,  one  of  the 
partners  of  the  company,  who  was  ultimately  to 
be  at  the  head  of  the  establishment  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Columbia.  He  is  represented  as  a  man 
scrupulously  upright  and  faithful  in  his  dealings, 
amicable  in  his  disposition,  and  of  most  accom- 
modating manners;  and  his  whole  conduct  will 
be  found  in  unison  with  such  a  character.  He 
was  not  practically  experienced  in  the  Indian 
trade ;  that  is  to  say,  he  had  never  made  any 
expeditions  of  traffic  into  the  heart  of  the  wilder- 
ness, but  he  had  been  engaged  in  commerce  at 
St.  Louis,  then  a  frontier  settlement  on  the  Mis- 
sissippi, where  the  chief  branch  of  his  business 


■I 


,-KX: 


n2 


ASTORIA. 


I     .i 


had  consisted  in  furnishing  Indian  traders  with 
g(K)ds  an'l  equipments.  In  this  way,  he  had 
acquired  much  knowledge  of  the  trade  at  second 
hand,  and  of  the  various  tribes,  and  the  interioi 
country  over  which  it  extended. 

Another  of  the  partners,  Mr.  Donald  M'Ken- 
zie,  was  associated  with  Mr.  Hunt  in  the  ex- 
pedition, and  excelled  on  those  points  in  which 
the  other  was  deficient;  for  he  had  been  ten 
years  in  the  interior,  in  the  service  of  the  North- 
west Company,  and  valued  himself  on  his  knowl- 
edge of  "  woodcraft,"  and  the  strategy  of  Indian 
trade  and  Indian  warfare.  He  had  a  frame 
Reasoned  to  toils  and  hardships;  a  spirit  not 
to  be  intimidated,  and  was  reputed  to  be  a 
**  remarkable  shot ; "  which  of  itself  was  sufficient 
to  give  him  renown  upon  the  frontier. 

Mr.  Hunt  and  his  coadjutor  repaired,  about 
the  latter  part  of  July,  1810,  to  Montreal,  the 
ancient  emporium  of  the  fur  trade,  where  every- 
thing requisite  for  the  expedition  could  be  pro- 
cured. One  of  the  first  objects  was  to  recruit  a 
complement  of  Canadian  voyageurs  from  the  dis- 
banded herd  usually  to  be  found  loitering  about 
the  place.  A  degree  of  jockeyship,  however,  is 
required  for  this  service,  for  a  Canadian  voyageur 
is  as  full  of  latent  tricks  and  vice  as  a  horse ; 
and  when  he  makes  the  greatest  external  prom- 
ise, is  prone  to  prove  the  greatest  "  take  in." 
Beside,  the  Northwest  Company,  who  maintained 
ft  long  established  control  at  Montreal,  and  knew 
the  qualities  of  every  voyageur,  secretly  inter- 
dicted the  prime  hands  from  engaging  in  this  new 


THE   TRADERS'    CANOE. 


]43 


Bervice;  so  that,  Rlthough  liberal  torms  were 
offered,  few  presented  themselves  but  such  aa 
were  not  worth-  having. 

From  these  Mr.  Hunt  engaged  a  number 
sufficient,  as  he  supposed,  for  present  purposes  ; 
and,  having  laid  in  a  supply  of  ammunition,  pro- 
visions, and  Indian  goods,  embarked  all  on  board 
one  of  those  great  canoes  at  that  time  universally 
used  by  the  fur  traders  for  navigating  the  intri- 
cate and  often-obstructed  rivers.  The  canoe  was 
between  thirty  and  forty  feet  long,  and  several 
feet  in  width  ;  constructed  of  birch  bark,  sewed 
with  fibres  of  the  roots  of  the  spruce  tree,  and 
daubed  with  resin  of  the  pine,  instead  of  tar. 
The  cargo  was  made  tip  in  packages,  weighing 
from  ninety  to  one  hundred  pounds  each,  for  the 
facility  of  loading  and  unloading,  and  of  trans- 
portation at  portages.  The  canoe  itself,  though 
capable  of  sustaining  a  freight  of  upwards  of 
four  tons,  could  readily  be  carried  on  men's 
shoulders.  Canoes  of  this  size  are  generally 
managed  by  eight  or  ten  men,  two  of  whom  are 
picked  veterans,  who  receive  double  wages,  and 
are  stationed,  one  at  the  bow  and  the  other  at 
the  stern,  to  keep  a  look-out  and  to  steer.  They 
are  termed  the  foreman  and  the  steersman.  The 
rest,  who  ply  the  paddles,  are  called  middle  men. 
When  there  is  a  favorable  breeze,  the  cauoe  is 
occasionally  navigated  with  a  sail. 

The  expedition  took  its  regular  departure,  as 
usual,  from  St.  Anne's,  near  the  extremity  of  the 
island  of  Montreal,  the  great  starting-place  of  *he 
traders  to  the  interior.     Here  stood  the  ancient 


-I^lfl 


i 

1 

s 

fc 

=      , 

144 


ASTORIA. 


chapel  of  St.  Anne,  the  patroness  of  the  Cana- 
dian voyageura ;  where  they  mp.de  confession,  and 
offered  up  their  vows,  previous  lo  departing  on 
any  hazardous  expedition.  The  shrine  of  the 
saint  was  decorated  with  relics  and  votive  offer- 
ings hung  up  by  these  superstitious  beings,  either 
to  propitiate  her  favor,  or  in  gratitude  for  some 
signal  deliverance  in  the  wilkrness.  It  was  the 
custom,  too,  of  these  devout  vagabonds,  after 
leaving  the  chapel,  to  have  a  grand  carouse,  iu 
honor  of  the  saint  and  for  the  prosperity  of  the 
voyage.  In  this  part  of  their  devotions,  the 
crew  of  Mr.  Hunt  proved  themselves  by  no 
means  deficient.  Indeed,  he  soon  discovered  that 
his  recruits,  enlisted  at  Montreal,  were  fit  to  vie 
with  the  ragged  regiment  of  Falstaff.  Some 
were  able-bodied,  but  inexpert ;  others  were 
expert,  but  lazy ;  while  a  third  class  were  expert 
and  willing,  but  totally  worn  out,  being  broken- 
down  veterans,  incapable  of  toil. 

With  this  inefHcient  crew  he  made  his  way  up 
the  Ottawa  River,  and  by  the  ancient  route  of 
the  fur  traders,  along  a  succession  of  small  lakes 
and  rivers,  to  Michilimackinac.  Their  progress 
was  slow  and  tedious.  Mr.  Hunt  was  not  ac« 
customed  to  the  management  of  "voyageurs," 
and  he  had  a  crew  admirably  disposed  to  play 
the  old  soldier,  and  balk  their  work ;  and  ever 
ready  to  come  to  a  halt,  land,  make  a  fire,  put 
on  the  great  pot,  and  smoke,  and  gossip,  and  sing 
by  the  hour. 

It  was  not  until  the  22d  of  July  that  they 
arrived  at  Mackinaw,  situated  on  the  island  of 


}fA  CKINA  W. 


Mh 


of  the  Cana- 
)nfe99ion,  and 
departing  on 
jhrine  of  the 
votive  offer- 
bein«;s,  either 
iude  for  some 
It  was  the 
[abonds,    after 
id  carouse,  in 
isperity  of  the 
levotions,    the 
selves  by   no 
liscovered  that 
ivere  fit  to  vie 
alstaff.     Some 
I   others    were 
js  were  expert 
being  broken- 

,de  his  way  up 
[jient  route  of 
of  small  lakes 
heir  progress 
It  was  not  ac« 
"  voyageurs  " 
posed  to  play 
irk ;  and  ever 
ike  a  fire,  put 
•ssip,  and  sing 


tliR  »amc  iinme,  at  the  confluence  of  lakes  Huron 
and  Michigan.     This  famous  old  Frencli  trading- 
po8t  continued  to  be  a  rallying  point  for  a  multi- 
farious and  motley  population.     The  inhabitants 
were  amphibious   in   their  habits,  most  of  them 
being,  or  having  been  voyageurs  or  canoe   men. 
It  was  the   great  place  of  arrival  and  departure 
of  the  southwest  fur  trade.     H«tre  the  Mackinaw 
Company  had  established  its  principal  post,  from 
whence   it  communicated    with   the  interior  and 
with   Montreal.     Hence  its  various  traders  and 
trappers  set  out  for  their  respective  destinations 
about  Lake  Superior  and  its  tributary  waters,  or 
tor  the  Mississippi,  the   Arkansas,  the   Missouri, 
and  the  other  regions  of  the  west.     Here,  after 
the  absence  of  a  year,  or  more,  they   returned 
with   their  peltries,  and    settled   their  accounts; 
the  turs  rendered  in   by  them  being  transmitted 
in  canoes  from  hence  to  MontretU.     Mackinaw 
was,  therefore,  for  a  great  part  of  the  year,  very 
scantily    peopled ;    but   at    certain    seasons    the 
traders  arrived  from  all  points,  with  their  crews 
of  voyageurs,  and  the  place  swarmed  like  a  hive. 
Mackinaw,  at  that  time,  was  a  mere  village, 
stretching  along  a  small  bay,  with  a  fine  broad 
beach  in  front  of  its  principal  row  of  houses,  and 
dominated  by  the  old  fort,  which  crowned  an  im- 
pending height.     The  beach  was  a  kind  of  public 
promenade,  where  were  di&played  all  the  vagaries 
of  a  seaport  on  the  arrival  of  a  fleet  fix)m  a  long 
cruise.      Here    voyageurs    frolicked    away    their 
wages,  fiddling   and  dancing  in    the  booths  and 

cabins,  buying  all  kinds  of  knick-knacks,  dressing 
10 


146 


ASTORIA. 


;i;'    -I 


; 


1 

I 

1 

I'l 

JJ 

u 

themselves  out  finely,  and  parading  up  and  down, 
like  arrant  brao^cfarts  and  coxcombs.  Sometimes 
they  met  with  rival  coxcombs  in  the  young 
Indians  from  the  opposite  shore,  who  would  ap- 
pear on  the  beach  painted  and  decorated  in 
fantastic  style,  and  would  saunter  up  and  down, 
to  be  gazed  at  and  admired,  perfectly  satisfied 
that  they  eclipsed  their  pale-faced  competitors. 

Now  and  then  a  chance  party  of  "  North- 
westers **  appeared  at  Mackinaw  from  the  ren- 
dezvous at  Fort  William.  These  held  them- 
selves up  as  the  chivalry  of  the  fur  trade. 
They  were  men  of  iron ;  proof  against  cold 
weather,  hard  fare,  and  perils  of  all  kinds. 
Some  would  wear  the  Northwest  button,  and  a 
formidable  dirk,  and  assume  something  of  a 
nulitary  air.  They  generally  wore  feathers  in 
their  hats,  and  affected  the  "  brave."  **  Je  suis 
un  homme  du  nord  I "  —  "I  am  a  man  of  the 
north,**  —  one  of  these  swelling  fellows  would  ex- 
claim, sticking  his  arms  akimbo  and  ruffling  by 
the  Southwesters,  whom  he  regarded  with  great 
contempt,  as  men  softened  by  mild  climates  and 
tlie  luxurious  fare  of  bread  and  bacon,  and  whom 
he  stigmatized  with  the  inglorious  name  of  pork- 
eaters.  The  superiority  assumed  by  these  vain- 
glorious swaggerers  was,  in  general,  tacitly  ad- 
mitted. Indeed,  some  of  them  had  acquired 
great  notoriety  for  -deeds  of  hardihood  and 
courage  ;  for  the  fur  trade  had  its  heroes,  whose 
names  resounded  throughout  the  wilderness. 

Such  was  Mackinaw  at  the  time  of  which  we 
are  treating.     It  now,  doubtless,  presents  a  totally 


-1 


DIFFICULTIES   OF  RECRUITING.       147 


different  aspect.  The  fur  companies  no  longer 
assemble  there ;  the  navigation  of  the  lakes  is 
carried  on  by  steamboats  aiid  various  shipping, 
and  the  race  of  traders,  and  trappers,  and  voy- 
ageurs,  and  Indian  dandies,  have  vapored  out 
their  brief  hour  and  disappeared.  Such  changes 
does  the  lapse  of  a  handful  of  years  make  in 
this  ever-changing  country. 

At  this  place  Mr.  Huiit  remained  for  some 
time,  to  complete  his  assortment  of  Indian  goods, 
and  to  increase  his  number  of  voyageurs,  as  well 
as  to  engage  some  of  a  more  efficient  character 
than  those  enlisted  at  Montreal. 

And  now  commenced  another  game  of  jockey- 
shij).  There  were  able  and  efficient  men  in 
abundance  at  Mackinaw,  but  for  several  days  not 
one  presented  himself.  If  offers  were  made  to 
any,  they  were  listened  to  with  a  shake  of  the 
head.  Should  any  one  seem  inclined  to  enlist, 
there  were  officious  idlers  and  busy-bodies,  of  that 
class  who  are  ever  ready  to  dissuade  others  from 
any  enterprise  in  which  they  themselves  have  no 
concern.  These  would  pull  him  by  the  sleeve, 
take  him  on  one  side,  and  murmur  in  his  ear,  or 
would  suggest  difficulties  outright. 

It  was  objected  that  the  expedition  would 
have  to  navigate  unknown  rivers,  and  pass 
through  howling  wildernesses  infested  by  sav- 
age tribes,  who  had  already  cut  off  the  unfor- 
tunate voyageurs  that  had  ventured  among  them ; 
that  it  was  to  climb  the  Rocky  Mountains  and 
descend  into  desolate  and  famished  regions, 
where    the   traveller  was  often   obliged   to  8ub» 


...^<%^.. 


ll 


148 


ASTORIA. 


eist  on  grasshoppers  and  crickets,  or  to  kill  his 
own  horse  for  food. 

At  length  one  man  was  hardy  enough  to  en- 
gage, and  he  was  used  like  a  "  stool-pigeon,"  to 
decoy  others ;  but  several  days  elapsed  before 
any  more  could  be  prevailed  upon  to  join  him. 
A  few  then  came  to  terms.  It  was  desirable  to 
engage  them  for  five  years,  but  some  refused  to 
engage  for  more  than  three.  Then  they  must 
have  part  of  their  pay  in  advance,  wlilch  was 
readily  granted.  When  they  had  pocketed  the 
amount,  and  squandered  it  in  regales  or  in  outfits, 
they  began  to  talk  of  pecuniary  obligations  at 
Mackinaw,  which  must  be  discharged  before  they 
would  be  irpje  to  depart;  or  engagements  Mjith 
other  persons,  v;hich  were  only  to  be  canceled 
by  a  "  reasonable  consideration." 

It  was  in  vain  to  argue  or  remonstrate.  The 
money  advanced  had  already  been  sacked  and 
spent,  and  must  be  lost  and  the  recruits  left 
behind,  unless  they  could  be  freed  from  their 
debts  and  engagements.  Accordingly,  a  fine 
was  paid  for  one ;  a  judgment  for  another ;  a 
tavern  bill  for  the  third ,  and  almost  all  had  to 
be  bought  off  from  some  prior  engagement,  either 
real  or  pretended. 

Mr.  Hunt  groaned  in  spirit  at  the  incessant 
and  unreasonable  demands  of  these  worthies 
upon  his  purse ;  yet  with  all  this  outlay  of 
funds,  the  number  recruited  was  but  scanty,  and 
many  of  the  most  desirable  still  held  themselves 
aloof,  and  were  not  to  be  caught  by  a  golden 
bait.     With   tiiese   he  tried  another   temptatioa 


.it,. 


A  NEW  PARTNER. 


149 


or  to  kill  his 

enough  to  en- 
ool-pigeon,"  to 

elapsed  before 
n  to  join  him. 
Eis  desirable  to 
ome  refused  to 
len  they  must 
ce,  which  was 
i  pocketed  the 
le?  or  in  outfits, 

obligations  at 
^ed  before  they 
;agements  vjith 
to  be   canceled 

nstrate.     The 

n   sacked  and 

|e    recruits  left 

ed   from  their 

ingly,    a    fine 

[or    another ;  a 

lost  all  had  to 

gement,  either 

the  incessant 
Ihese  worthies 
[lis  outlay  of 
jit  scanty,  and 

;ld  themselves 
by  a  golden 

^r   temptatioi^ 


Amons  the  recruits  who  had  enlisted  ho  dis- 
tributed  feathers  and  ostrich  plumes.  These 
they  put  in  their  hats,  and  thus  figured  about 
Mackinaw,  assuming  airs  of  vast  importance,  as 
"  voyageurs  in  a  new  company,  that  wa8  to 
eclipse  the  Northwest.  The  effect  was  complete. 
A  French  Canadian  is  too  vain  and  mercurial  a 
being  to  withstand  the  finery  and  ostentation  of 
the  feather.  Numbers  immediately  pressed  into 
the  service.  One  must  have  an  ostrich  plume ; 
another,  a  white  feather  with  a  red  end  ;  a  third, 
a  bunch  of  cocks'  tails.  Thus  all  paraded  about, 
in  vainglorious  style,  more  delighted  with  the 
feathers  in  their  hats  than  with  the  money  in 
their  pockets  ;  and  considering  themselves  fully 
equal  to  the  boastful  "  men  of  the  north." 

While  thus  recruiting  the  number  of  rank  and 
file,  Mr.  Hunt  was  joined  by  a  person  whom  he 
had  invited,  by  letter,  to  engage  as  a  partner  in 
the  expedition.  This  was  Mr.  Ramsay  Crooks, 
a  young  man,  a  native  of  Scotland,  who  had 
served  under  the  Northwest  Company,  and  been 
engaged  in  trading  expeditions  upon  his  in- 
dividual account,  among  the  tribes  of  the  Mis- 
souri. Mr.  Hunt  knew  him  personally,  and  had 
conceived  a  high  and  merited  opinion  of  his 
judgment,  enterprise,  and  integrity ;  he  was 
rejoiced,  therefore,  when  the  latter  consented  to 
accompany  him.  Mr.  Crooks,  however,  drew 
from  experience  a  picture  of  the  dangers  to 
which  they  would  be  subjected,  and  urged  the 
importance  of  going  with  a  considerable  force. 
In  ascending  the  upper  Missouri  they  would  hav© 


150 


ASTORIA. 


*  i 


!l         I 


I    J 


to  pass  through  the  country  of  the  Sioux  Indians, 
who  had  manifested  repeated  hostility  to  the 
white  traders,  and  rendered  their  expeditions 
extremely  perilous ;  firing  upon  them  from  the 
river  banks  as  they  passed  beneath  in  their 
boats,  and  attacking  them  in  their  encampments. 
Mr.  Crooks  himself,  when  voyaging  in  company 
with  another  trader  of  the  name  of  M'Lellan, 
had  been  interrupted  by  these  marauders,  and 
had  considered  himself  fortunate  in  escaping 
down  the  river  without  loss  of  life  or  property, 
but  with  a  total  abandonment  of  his  trading 
voyage. 

Should  they  be  fortunate  enough  to  pass  through 
the  country  of  the  Sioux  without  molestation,  they 
would  have  another  tribe  still  more  savage  and 
warlike  beyond,  and  deadly  foes  of  the  white  men. 

These  were  the  Blackfeet  Indians,  who  ranged 
over  a  wide  extent  of  country  which  *\xtj  would 
have  to  traverse.  Under  aU  these  circumBlfti»ees, 
it  was  thought  advisable  to  augiiunt  tbf-.  j 'irty 
considerably.  It  already  exceeded  the  number 
of  thirty,  to  which  it  had  originally  been  limited ; 
but  it  was  determined,  on  arriving  at  St.  Louis, 
to  increase  it  to  the  number  of  sixty. 

These  matters  being  arranged,  they  prepared  to 
embark ;  but  the  embarkation  of  a  crew  of  Cana- 
dian voyageurs,  on  a  distant  expedition,  is  not  so 
easy  a  iTiatter  as  might  be  imagined ;  especially 
of  such  a  mi  of  vainglorious  fellows  with  money 
in  both  pockets,  and  cocks'  tails  in  their  hats. 
Like  3!i;!oi's,  the  Canadian  voyageurs  generally 
preface  g  Ic:,|  craiie  winh  a  carouse.     They  have 


EMBARKATION  OF  CANADIAN  V0YAGEUR8.  Ijil 


their  cronies,  their  brothers,  their  cousins,  their 
wives,  their  sweethearts,  all  to.  be  entertained  at 
their  expense.  They  feast,  they  fiddle,  they 
drink,  they  sing,  they  dance,  they  frolic  and  fight, 
until  they  are  all  as  mad  as  so  many  drunken 
Indians.  The  publicans  are  all  obedience  to  tlieir 
commands,  never  hesitating  to  let  them  run  up 
scores  without  limit,  knowing  that,  when  their 
own  money  is  expended,  the  purses  of  their  em- 
ployers must  answer  for  the  bill,  or  the  voyage 
iniist  be  delayed.  Neither  was  it  possible,  at  that 
timp,  to  remedy  the  matter  at  Mackinaw.  In 
tlun  amphibious  community  there  was  always  a 
propensity  to  wrest  the  laws  in  favor  of  riotous 
o'  mutiiions  boatmen.  It  was  necessary,  also,  to 
ia  ep  the  recruits  in  good  humor,  seeing  the  nov- 
el«}  and  danger  of  the  service  into  which  thty 
^vfrs  entering,  and  the  ease  with  which  tliey 
might  at  any  time  escape  it,  by  jumping  into  a 
canae  and  going  down  the  stream. 

Such  were  the  scenes  that  beset  Mr.  Hunt,  and 
gave  him  a  foretaste  of  the  difficulties  of  his  c.>m- 
mand.  The  little  cabarets  and  sutlers*  siiops 
along  the  bay  resounded  with  tlie  scraping  of 
fiddles,  with  snatches  of  old  French  songs,  with 
Indian  whoops  and  yells,  while  every  plumed  and 
feathered  vagabond  had  his  troop  of  loving  cousins 
and  comrades  at  his  heels.  It  was  with  the  ut- 
most ditSculty  they  could  be  extricated  from  the 
clutciies  of  the  publicans,  and  the  embraces  of 
their  pot  companions,  who  followed  them  to  the 
ivater's  edge  with  many  a  hug,  a  kiss  on  each 
cheek,  and  a  maudlin  benediction  in  Canadian 
French. 


152 


ASTORIA. 


It  was  abpui  the  12th  of  August  that  they  left 
Mackinaw,  and  pursued  the  usual  route  by  Green 
Bay,  Fox  and  Wisconsin  rivers,  to  Prairie  du 
Chien,  and  thence  down  the  Mississippi  to  St. 
Louis,  were  they  landed  on  the  third  of  Septem* 
bor. 


m 


CHAPTER  XIV. 


T.  Louis,  which  is  situated  on  the  righ^. 
bank  of  the  Mississippi  River,  a  few  miles 

^^§1  below  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri,  was, 
at  that  time,  a  frontier  settlement,  and  the  last 
fitting-out  place  for  the  Indian  trade  of  the  South- 
west. It  possessed  a  motley  population,  composed 
of  the  Creole  descendants  of  the  original  French 
colonists ;  the  keen  traders  from  the  Atlantic 
States ;  the  backwoodsmen  of  Kentucky  and  Ten- 
nessee ;  the  Indians  and  half-breeds  of  the  prairies ; 
together  with  a  singular  aquatic  race  that  had 
grown  up  from  the  navigation  of  the  rivers  —  the 
"  the  boatmen  of  the  Mississippi ; "  who  possessed 
habits,  manners,  and  almost  a  language,  peculiarly 
their  own,  and  strongly  technical.  They,  at  that 
time,  were  extremely  numerous,  and  conducted 
the  chief  navigation  and  commerce  of  the  Ohio 
and  the  Mississippi,  as  the  voyageurs  did  of  the 
Canadian  waters ;  but,  like  them,  their  con- 
sequence and  characteristics  are  rapidly  vanishing 
before  the  all  pervading  intrusion  of  steamboats. 

The  old  French  houses  engaged  in  the  Indian 
trade  had  gathered  round  them  a  train  of  depend- 
ents, mongrel  Indians,  and  mongrel  Frenchmen, 
who  had  intermarried  with  Indians.  These  they 
employed  m  their  various  expeditions  by  land  and 


■    .^  i 


il 


154 


ASTORIA. 


water.  Various  individuals  of  other  countries 
had,  of  late  years,  pushed  the  trade  further  into 
the  interior,  to  the  upper  waters  of  the  JVlissouri, 
and  had  swelled  the  number  of  these  hangers-on. 
Several  of  these  traders  had,  two  or  three  years 
previously,  formed  themselves  into  a  company, 
composed  of  twelve  partners,  with  a  capital  of 
about  fori  thousand  dollars,  called  the  Missouri 
Fur  Company ;  the  object  of  which  was,  to  estab- 
lisli  posts  along  the  upper  part  of  that  river,  and 
monopolize  the  trade.  The  leading  partner  of 
this  company  was  Mr.  Manuel  Lisa,  a  Spaniard 
by  birth,  and  a  man  of  bold  and  enterprising 
character,  who  had  ascended  the  Missouri  almost 
ij  its  source,  and  made  himself  well  acquainted 
and  popular  with  several  of  its  tribes.  By  his 
exertions,  trading  posts  had  been  established,  in 
1808,  in  the  Sioux  country,  and  among  the  Ari- 
car  a  and  Mandan  tribes ;  and  a  principal  one, 
under  Mr.  Henry,  •  >  le  of  the  partners,  at  the  forks 
of  the  Missouri.  Tiiis  company  had  in  its  employ 
about  two  hundred  and  fifty  men,  partly  American 
hunters,  and  partly  Creoles  and  Canadian  voy- 
ageurs. 

All  these  circumstances  combined  to  produce  a 
population  at  St.  Louis  even  still  more  motley 
than  that  at  Mackinaw.  Here  were  to  be  seen, 
about  the  river  banks,  the  hectoring,  extravagant, 
bragging  boatmen  of  the  Mississippi,  with  the  gay, 
grimacing,  singing,  good-humored  Canadian  voy- 
ageurs.  Vagrant  Indians,  of  various  tribes,  loi- 
tered about  the  streets.  Now  and  then  a  stark 
Kentucky  hunter,  in  leathern  hunting-dress,  with 


ST.  LO  UI8.  —  ANO THER   ADDl T.  ON.      155 


rifle  on  shoulder  aud  knife  in  belt,  strode  along. 
Here  and  there  were  now  brick  houses  aud  shops, 
just  set  up  by  bustling,  driving,  and  eager  meii" 
of  traffic  from  the  Atlantic  States ;  while,  on  tlie 
other  hand,  the  old  French  mansions,  with  open 
casements,  still  retained  the  easy,  indolent  air  of 
the  original  colonists ;  and  now  aud  then  the  scrap- 
ing of  a  fiddle,  a  strain  of  an  ancient  French  song, 
or  the  sound  of  billiard  balls,  showed  that  the 
happy  Gallic  turn  for  gayety  and  amusement  still 
lingered  about  the  place. 

Such  was  St.  Louis  at  the  time  of  Mr.  Hunt's 
arrival  there,  and  the  appearance  of  a  new  fur 
company,  with  ample  funds  at  its  command,  pro- 
duced a  strong  sensation  among  the  Indian  traders 
of  the  place,  and  awakened  keen  jealousy  and 
opposition  on  the  part  of  the  Missouri  Company. 
Mr.  Hunt  proceeded  to  strengthen  himself  against 
all  competition.  For  this  purpose,  he  secured  to 
the  interests  of  the  association  another  of  those 
enterprising  men,  who  had  been  engaged  in  in- 
dividual traffic  with  the  tribes  of  the  Missouri. 
This  was  a  Mr.  Joseph  Miller,  a  gentleman  well 
educated  and  well  informed,  and  of  a  respectable 
family  of  Baltimore.  He  had  been  an  officer  in 
the  army  o^  the  United  States,  but  had  resigned 
in  disgust,  on  being  refused  a  furlough,  and  had 
taken  to  trapping  beaver  and  trading  among  the 
Indians.  He  was  easily  induced  by  Mr.  Hunt  to 
join  as  a  partner,  and  was  considered  by  hiri,  on  ac- 
count of  his  education  and  acquirements,  and  his 
experience  in  Indian  trade,  a  valuable  addition  to 
the  company. 


156 


ASTORIA. 


Several  additional  men  were  likewise  enlisted 
at  St.  Louis,  sone  as  boatmen,  and  others  as 
hunters.  These  last  were  engaged,  not  merely 
to  kill  game  for  provisions,  but  also,  and  indeed 
chiefly,  to  trap  beaver  and  other  animals  of  rich 
furs,  valuable  in  the  trade.  They  enlisted  on 
different  terms.  Some  were  to  have  a  fixed  salary 
of  three  hundred  dollars ;  others  were  to  be  fitted 
out  and  maintained  at  the  expense  of  the  company, 
and  were  to  hunt  and  trap  on  shares. 

As  Mr.  Hunt  met  with  much  opposition  on  the 
part  of  rival  traders,  especially  the  Missouri  Fur 
Company,  it  took  him  some  weeks  to  complete  his 
preparations.  The  delays  which  he  had  previously 
experienced  at  Montreal,  Mackinaw,  and  on  the 
way,  added  to  those  at  St.  Louis,  had  thrown  him 
much  behind  his  original  calculations,  so  that  it 
would  be  impossible  to  effect  his  voyage  up  the 
Missouri  in  the  present  year.  This  river,  flowing 
from  high  and  cold  latitudes,  and  through  wide 
and  open  plains,  exposed  to  cliilling  blasts,  freezes 
early.  The  winter  may  be  dated  from  the  first 
of  November;  there  was  every  prospect,  there- 
fore, that  it  would  be  closed  with  ice  long  before 
Mr.  Hunt  could  reach  its  upper  waters.  To  avoid, 
however,  the  expense  of  wintering  at  St.  Louis, 
he  determined  to  push  up  the  river  as  far  as  pos- 
sible, to  some  point  above  the  settlements,  where 
game  was  plenty,  and  where  his  whole  party  could 
be  subsisted  by  hunting,  until  the  breaking  up  of 
the  ice  in  the  spring  should  permit  them  to  resume 
their  voyage. 

Accordingly  on  the  twenty-first  of  October  he 


NAVIGATTNG    THE  MISSOVRL 


157 


took  his  departure  from  St.  Louis.  His  party 
vfSA  distributed  in  three  boats.  One  was  the 
barge  which  he  had  brought  from  Mackinaw ;  an- 
other was  of  a  larger  size,  such  as  was  formerly 
used  in  navigating  the  Mohawk  River,  and  known 
by  the  generic  name  of  the  Schenectady  barge ; 
the  other  was  a  large  keel  boat,  at  that  time  the 
grand  conveyance  on  the  Mississippi. 

In  this  way  they  set  out  from  St.  Louis,  in 
buoyant  spirits,  and  soon  arrived  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Missouri.  This  vast  river,  three  thousand 
miles  in  length,  and  which,  with  its  tributary 
streams,  drains  such  an  immense  extent  of  country, 
was  as  yet  but  casually  and  imperfectly  navigated 
by  the  adventurous  bark  of  the  fur  trader.  A 
steamboat  had  never  yet  stemmed  its  turbulent 
current.  Sails  were  but  of  casual  assistance,  for 
it  required  a  strong  wind  to  conquer  the  force  of 
the  stream.  The  main  dependence  was  on  bodily 
strength  and  manual  dexterity.  The  boats,  in 
general,  had  to  be  propelled  by  oars  and  setting 
poles,  or  drawn  by  the  hand  and  by  grappling 
hooks  from  one  root  or  overhanging  tree  to  an- 
other ;  or  towed  by  the  long  cordelle,  or  towing 
line,  where  the  shores  were  sufficiently  clear  of 
woods  and  thickets  to  permit  the  men  to  pass 
along  the  banks. 

During  this  slow  and  tedious  progress  the  boat 
would  be  exposed  to  frequent  danger  from  float- 
ing trees  and  great  masses  of  drift-wood,  or  to  be 
impaled  upon  snags  and  sawyers ;  that  is  to  say, 
sunken  trees,  presenting  a  jagged  or  pointed  end 
above  the  surface  of  the  water.     As  the  channel 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


Z 


1.0 


I.I 


11.25 


If  1^ 


us 


2.0 


1.8 


1.4 


VI 


^ 


/a 


7 


'»/ 


r 


'V 


y 


/A 


Photographic 

Sdences 

Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)872-4503 


I 


158 


ASTORIA. 


of  the  river  frequently  shifted  from  side  to  side 
according  to  the  bends  and  sand-banks,  the  boat 
had,  in  the  same  way,  to  advance  in  a '  zigzag 
course.  Often  a  part  of  the  crew  would  have  to 
leap  into  the  water  at  the  shallows,  and  wade 
along  with  the  towing  line,  while  their  comrades 
on  board  toilfully  assisted  with  oar  and  netting 
pole.  Sometimes  the  boat  would  seem  to  be  re- 
tained motionless,  as  if  spell-bound,  opposite  some 
point  round  which  the  current  set  with  violence, 
and  where  the  utmost  labor  scarce  effected  any 
visible  progress. 

On  these  occasions  it  was  that  the  merits  of 
*  the  Canadian  voyageurs  came  into  full  action. 
Patient  of  toil,  not  to  be  disheartered  by  impedi- 
ments and  disappointments,  fertile  in  expedients, 
and  versed  in  every  mode  of  humoring  and  con- 
quering the  wayward  current,  they  would  ply 
levery  exertion,  sometimes  in  the  boat,  sometimes 
on  shore,  sometimes  in  the  water,  however  cold ; 
always  alert,  always  in  good  humor ;  and,  should 
they  at  any  time  flag  or  grow  weary,  one  of  thtir 
popular  boat  songs,  chanted  by  a  veteran  oarsman, 
and  responded  to  in  chorus,  acted  as  a  never-faL 
ing  restorative. 

By  such  assiduous  and  persevering  labor  they 
made  their  way  about  four  hundred  and  fifty 
rniles  up  the  Missouri,  by  the  16th  of  November, 
to  the  mouth  of  the  Nodowa.  As  this  was  a 
good  hunting  country,  and  as  the  season  was 
nipidly  advancing,  they  determined  to  establish 
their  winter  quarters  at  this  place ;  and,  in  fact, 
two  days  after  they  had  come  to  a  halt,  the  river 
closed  just  above  their  encampment. 


MORE  ADDITIONS  10   THE  PARTY.    159 


The  party  had  not  been  long  at  this  place 
when  they  were  joined  by  Mr.  Robert  M'Lellan, 
another  trader  of  the  Missouri;  the  same  who 
had  been  associated  with  Mr.  Crooks  in  the  un- 
fortunate expedition  in  which  they  had  been 
intercepted  by  the  Sioux  Indians,  and  obliged  to 
make  a  rapid  retreat  down  the  river. 

M'Lellan  was  a  remarkable  man.  He  had 
been  a  partisan  under  General  Wayne,  in  his 
Indian  wars,  where  he  had  distinguished  himself 
by  his  fiery  spirit  and  reckless  daring,  and  mar- 
velous stories  were  told  of  his  exploits.  His 
appearance  answered  to  his  character.  His  frame 
was  meagre^  but  muscular;  showing  strength, 
activity,  and  iron  firmness.  His  eyes  were  dark, 
deep-set,  and  piercing.  He  was  restless,  fearless, 
but  of  impetuous  and  sometimes  ungovernable 
temper.  He  had  been  invited  by  Mr.  Hunt  to 
enroll  himself  as  a  partner,  and  gladly  consented ; 
being  pleased  with  the  thoughts  of  passing  with 
a  powerful  force  through  the  country  of  the 
Sioux,  and  perhaps  having  an  opportunity  of 
revenging  himself  upon^  that  lawless  tribe  for 
their  past  offenses. 

Another  recruit  that  joined  the  camp  at  No- 
do  wa  deserves  equal  mention.  This  was  John 
Day,  a  hunter  from  the  back-woods  of  Virginia, 
who  had  been  several  years  on  the  Missouri  in 
the  service  of  Mr.  Crooks,  and  of  other  traders. 
He  was  about  forty  years  of  age,  six  feet  two 
iTiches  high,  straight  as  an  Indian  ;  with  an  elas- 
tic step  as  if  he  trod  on  springs,  and  a  handsome, 
open,  manly  counf'nance.     It  was  his  boast,  that 


160 


AST  OR  FA, 


1  II      1    : 


lit, 
II 


II ! 


in  hiA  younger  days,  nothing  could  hurt  or  daunt 
him ;  but  he  had  "  lived  too  fast,"  and  injured  his 
constitution  by  his  excesses.  Still  he  was  strong 
of  hand,  bold  of  heart,  a  prime  woodman,  and  an 
almost  unerring  shot.  He  had  the  frank  spirit 
of  a  Virginian,  and  the  rough  heroism  of  a 
pioneer  of  the  west. 

The  party  were  now  brought  to  a  halt  for 
several  months.  They  were  in  a  country  aboun- 
ding with  deer  and  wild  turkeys,  so  that  there 
was  no  stint  of  provisions,  and  every  one  ap- 
peared cheerful  and  contented.  Mr.  Hunt  de- 
termined to  avail  h'mself  of  this  interval  to 
return  to  St.  Louis  and  obtain  a  reinforcement. 
He  wished  to  procure  an  interpreter,  acquainted 
with  the.  language  of  the  Sioux,  as,  from  all 
accounts,  he  apprehended  difficulties  in  passing 
through  the  country  of  that  nation.  He  felt  the 
necessity,  also,  of  having  a  greater  number  of 
hunters,  not  merely  to  keep  up  a  supply  of  pro- 
visions throughout  their  long  and  arduous  expedi- 
tion, but  also  as  a  protection  and  defense,  in  case 
of  Indian  hostilities.  For  such  service  the  Cana- 
dian voyageurs  were  little  to  be  depended  upon, 
fighting  not  being  a  part  of  their  profession.  The 
proper  kind  of  men  were  American  hunters,  ex- 
perienced in  savage  life  and  savage  warfare,  and 
possessed  of  the  true  game  spirit  of  the  west. 

Leaving,  therefore,  the  encampment  in  charge 
of  the  other  partners,  Mr.  Hunt  set  off  on  foot 
on  the  first  of  January  (1810),  for  St.  Louis. 
He  was  accompanied  by  eight  men  as  far  as  Fort 
Osage,  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  mile&  below 


k 


HUNTS  ARRIVAL  AT  8T.   LOUTS,       161 

Nodowa.  Here  he  procured  a  couple  of  horses, 
aud  proceeded  on  the  remainder  of  his  journey 
with  two  men,  sending  the  other  six  back  to  the 
encampment.  He  arrived  at  St.  Louis  on  the 
20th  of  January. 


U 


CHAPTER  XV. 


<      m 


N  this  his  second  visit  to  St.  Louis,  IVfr. 
Hunt  was  again  impeded  in  his  plans 
by  the  opposition  of  the  Missouri  Fur 
Company.  The  affairs  of  that  company  were,  at 
this  time,  in  a  very  dubious  state.  During  the 
preceding  year,  their  principal  establishment  at 
the  forks  of  the  Missouri  had  been  so  much 
harassed  by  the  Blackfeet  Indians,  that  its  com- 
mander, Mr.  Henry,  one  of  the  partners,  had 
been  compelled  to  abandon  the  post  and  cross 
the  Rocky  Mountains,  with  the  intention  of  fix- 
ing himself  upon  one  of  the  upper  branches  of 
the  Columbia^  What  had  become  of  him  and 
his  party  was  unknown.  The  most  intense  anx- 
iety was  felt  concerning  them,  and  apprehensions 
that  they  might  have  been  cut  off  by  the  savages. 
At  the  time  of  Mr.  Hunt's  arri/al  at  St.  Louis, 
the  Missouri  Company  were  fitting  out  an  ex- 
pedition to  go  in  quest  of  Mr.  Henry.  It  was 
to  be  conducted  by  Mr.  Manuel  Lisa,  the  enter- 
prising partner  already  mentioned. 

There  being  thus  two  expeditions  on  foot  at 
the  same  moment,  an  unusual  demand  was  occa- 
sioned for  hunters  and  voyageurs,  who  according- 
profited  by  the  circumstance,  and  stipulated  for 
high  terms.     Mr.  Hunt  found  a  keen  and  subtle 


PIERRE  DORWN. 


163 


oompetitor  in  Lisa,  and  was  obliged  to  secure  his 
recruits  by  liberal  advances  of  pay,  and  by  other 
pecuniary  indulgences. 

The  greatest  difficulty  was  to  procure  the  Sioux 
interpreter.  There  was  but  one  man  to  be  met 
with  at  Su  Jjouis  who  was  fitted  for  the  purpose, 
but  to  secure  him  would  require  much  manage* 
ment  The  individual  in  question  was  a  half- 
breed,  named  Pierre  Dorion ;  and,  as  he  figures 
hereafter  in  this  narrative,  and  is,  withal,  a 
striking  specimen  of  the  hybrid  race  on  the  fron* 
tier,  we  shall  give  a  few  particulars  concerning 
him.  Pierre  was  the  son  of  Dorion,  the  French 
interpreter,  who  accompanied  Messrs.  Lewis  and 
Clarke  in  their  famous  exploring  expedition 
across  the  Rocky  Mountains.  Old  Dorion  was 
one  of  those  French  Creoles,  descendants  of  the 
ancient  Canadian  stock,  who  abound  on  the 
western  frontier,  and  amalgamate  or  cohabit  with 
the  savages.  He  had  sojourned  among  various 
tribes,  and  perhaps  left  progeny  among  them  all ; 
but  his  regular,  or  habitual  wife,  was  a  Sioux 
squaw.  By  her  he  had  a  hopeful  brood  of  half- 
breed  sons,  of  whom  Pierre  was  one.  The  do- 
mestic aiFairs  of  old  Dorion  were  conducted  on 
the  true  Indian  plan.  Father  and  sons  would 
occasionally  get  drunk  together,  and  then  the 
cabin  was  a  scene  of  ruffian  brawl  and  fighting, 
in  the  course  of  which  the  old  Frenchman  was 
apt  to  get  soundly  belabored  by  his  mongrel  off- 
spring. Li  a  furious  scuffle  of  the  kind,  one  of 
the  sons  got  the  old  man  upon  the  ground,  and 
iras  upon  the  point  of  scalpmg  him.     '^Holdl 


164 


ASTORIA. 


i  ^i  i 


I 


'ill 

"» ;;; 
^llj'" 

miff ;;, 


«ti  :" 


I!    'li'lli 
■Kit 

I*! 


my  son,**  cried  the  old  fellow,  in  imploring  ac- 
cents, "you  are  too  brave,  too  honorable  to  scalp 
your  father!"  This  last  appeal  touched  the 
French  side  of  the  half-breed*s  heart,  so  he  suf- 
fered the  old  man  to  wear  his  scalp  unharmed. 

Of  this  hopeful  stock  was  Pierre  Dorion,  the 
man  whom  it  was  now  the  desire  of  Mr.  Hunt  to 
engage  as  an  interpreter.  He  had  been  employed 
in  that  capacity  by  the  Missouri  Fur  Company 
during  the  preceding  year,  and  conducted  their 
traders  in  safety  through  the  different  tribes  of 
the  Sioux.  He  had  proved  himself  faithful  and 
serviceable  while  sober ;  but  the  love  of  liquor, 
in  which  he  had  been  nurtured  and  brought  up, 
would  occasionally  break  out,  and  with  it  the 
savage  side  of  his  character. 

It  was  his  love  of  liquor  which  had  embroiled 
him  with  the  Missouri  Company.  While  in  their 
service  at  Fort  Mandan,  on  the  frontier,  he  had 
been  seized  with  a  whiskey  mania ;  and,  as  the 
beverage  was  only  to  be  procured  at  the  com- 
pany's store,  it  had  been  charged  in  his  account 
at  the  rate  of  ten  dollars  a  quart.  This  item  had 
ever  remained  unsettled,  and  a  matter  of  furious 
dispute,  the  mere  mention  of  which  was  sufficient 
to  put  him  in  a  passion. 

The  moment  it  was  discovered  by  Mr.  Lisa 
that  Pierre  Dorion  was  in  treaty  with  the  new 
and  rival  association,  he  endeavored,  by  threats 
as  well  as  promises,  to  prevent  his  engaging  in 
their  service.  His  promises  mif^ht,  perhaps,  have 
prevailed ;  but  his  threats,  wh'ch  related  to  the 
whiskey  debt,  only  served  to  drive  Pierre  into  the 


DISAFFECTION  AND  DEHERTION.       165 


ing  ac- 
to  scalp 
led   the 
he  suf- 
•med. 
ion,  the 
Hunt  to 
nployed 
bmpany 
ed  their 
ribes  of 
iful  and 
f  liquor, 
ight  up, 
1  it  the 

ibroiled 
in  their 
he  had 

as  the 
le  com- 
account 
tern  had 

furious 
ufficient 

[r.  Lisa 
le  new 
threats 
ing  in 
)8,  hav€> 
to  the 
ito  the 


opposite  ranks.  Still  he  took  advantage  of  this 
competition  for  his  services  to  stand  out  with  Mr. 
Hunt  on  the  most  advantageous  terms,  and,  after 
a  negotiation  of  nearly  two  weeks,  capitulated  to 
serve  in  the  expedition,  as  hunter  and  interpreter, 
at  the  rate  of  three  hundred  dollars  a  year,  two 
hundred  of  which  were  to  be  paid  in  advance. 

When  Mr.  Hunt  had  got  everything  ready  for 
leaving  St.  Louis,  new  difficulties  arose.  Five  of 
the  American  hunters  from  the  encampment  at 
Nodowa,  suddenly  made  their  appearance.  They 
alleged  that  they  had  been  ill  treated  by  the 
partners  at  the  encampment,  and  had  come  off 
dandestinely,  in  consequence  of  a  dispute.  It 
was  useless  at  the  present  moment,  and  under 
present  circumstances,  to  attempt  any  compulsory 
measures  with  these  deserters.  Two  of  them 
Mr.  Hunt  prevailed  upon,  by  mild  means,  to 
return  with  him.  The  rest  refused;  nay,  what 
was  worse,  they  spread  such  reports  of  the  hard- 
ships and  dangers  to  be  apprehended  in  the  course 
of  the  expedition,  that  they  struck  a  panic  into 
those  hunters  who  had  recently  engaged  at  St. 
Louis,  and,  when  the  hour  of  departure  arrived, 
all  but  one  refused  to  embark.  It  was  in  vain 
to  plead  or  remonstrate;  they  shouldered  their 
rifles  and  turned  their  backs  upon  the  expedition, 
and  Mr.  Hunt  was  fain  to  put  off  from  shore 
with  the  single  hunter  and  a  number  of  vo}- 
ageurs  whom  he  had  engaged.  Even  Pierre 
Dorion,  at  the  last  moment,  refused  to  enter  the 
boat  until  Mr.  Hunt  consented  tc  take  his  squaw 
and  two  children  on  board  also      But  the  tissua 


1.  Ill 


106 


ASTORIA, 


i      I 


■'t  i 


of  perplexities,  on  account  of  tliis  worthy  individ* 
ual,  did  not  end  here. 

Among  the  various  persons  who  were  about  to 
proceed  up  the  Missouri  with  Mr.  Hunt,  were 
two  scientific  gentlemen :  one  Mr.  John  Brad- 
bury, a  man  of  mature  age,  but  great  enterprise 
and  personal  activity,  who  had  been  sent  out  by 
the  Linnaean  Society  of  Liverpool,  to  make  a  col- 
lection of  American  plants;  the  other,  a  Mr. 
Nuttall,  likewise  an  Englishman,  younger  in 
years,  who  has  since  made  himself  known  as  the 
author  of  ^  Travels  in  Arkansas,"  and  a  work  on 
the  **  Genera  of  American  Plants."  Mr.  Hunt 
had  ofiered  them  the  protection  and  facilities  of 
his  party,  in  their  scientific  researches  up  the 
Missouri.  As  they  were  not  ready  to  depart  at 
the  moment  of  embarkation,  they  put  their  trunks 
on  board  of  the  boat,  but  remained  at  St  Louis 
until  the  next  day,  for  the  arrival  of  the  post,  in- 
tending to  join  the  expedition  at  St.  Charles,  a 
short  distance  above  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri. 

The  same  evenings  however,  they  learned  that 
a  writ  had  been  issued  against  Pierre  Dorion  for 
his  whiskey  debt,  by  Mr.  Lisa,  as  agent  of  the 
Missouri  Company,  and  that  it  was  the  intention 
to  entrap  the  mongrel  linguist  on  his  arrival  at 
St  Charles.  Upon  hearing  this,  Mr.  Bradbiuy 
an^  Mr.  Nuttall  set  off  a  little  after  midnight,  by 
land,  got  ahead  of  the  boat  as  it  was  ascending 
the  Missouri,  before  its  arrival  at  St.  Charles, 
and  gave  Pierre  Dorion  warning  of  the  legal 
toil  prepared  to  ensnare  him.  The  knowing 
Pierre  Immediately  landed  and  took  to  the  woods, 


PIEBIiJCS   TROUBLES. 


167 


followed  by  his  squaw  laden  witJi  their  papooses, 
and  a  large  bundle  containing  their  most  precious 
effects,  promising  to  rejoin  the  party  some  distance 
above  St.  Charles.  There  seemed  little  depen- 
dence to  be  placed  upon  the  promises  of  a  loose 
adventurer  of  the  kind,  who  was  at  the  very 
time  playing  an  evasive  game  with  his  former 
employers-;  who  had  already  received  two-thirds 
of  his  year's  pay,  and  his  rifle  on  his  shoulder, 
his  family  and  worldly  fortune  at  his  heels,  and 
the  wild  woods  before  him.  There  was  no  alter- 
native, however,  and  it  was  hoped  his  pique 
against  his  old  employers  would  rend,  r  him  faith- 
fill  to  his  new  ones. 

The  party  reached  St.  Charles  in  the  afternoon, 
but  the  harpies  of  the  law  looked  in  vain  for 
their  expected  prey.  The  boats  resumed  their 
course  on  the  following  morning,  and  had  not 
proceeded  far  when  Pierre  Dorion  made  his  ap- 
pearance on  the  shore.  He  was  gladly  taken  on 
board,  but  he  came  without  his  squaw.  They 
had  quarreled  in  the  night ;  Pierre  had  adminis- 
tered the  Indian  discipline  of  the  cudgel,  where- 
upon she  had  taken  to  the  woods,  with  their 
children  and  all  their  worldly  goods.  Pierre  evi- 
dently was  deeply  grieved  and  disconcerted  at  the 
loss  of  his  wife  and  his  knapsack,  whereupon 
Mr.  Hunt  dispatched  one  of  the  Canadian  voy- 
ageurs  in  search  of  the  fugitive ;  and  the  whole 
party,  after  proceeding  a  few  miles  further,  en- 
camped on  an  island  to  wait  his  return.  The 
Canadian  rojoined  the  party,  but  without  the 
•quaw ;  and  Pierre  Dorion  passed  a  solitary  and 


168 


ASTORIA, 


'     'f 


i 


i  ^ 

I  'ii'iti 


I J 


I'  '! 


anxious  uight,  bitterly  regretting  his  indi8Ci*etion 
iu  having  exercised  his  conjugal  authority  so  near 
home.  Before  daybreak,  however,  a  well-known 
voice  reached  his  ears  from  the  opposite  shore. 
It  was  his  repentant  spouse,  who  had  been  wan- 
dering the  woods  all  night  in  quest  of  the  party, 
and  had  at  length  descried  it  by  its  fires.  A 
boat  was  dispatched  for  her,  the  interesting  family 
was  once  more  united,  and  Mr.  Hunt  now  flat- 
tered himself  that  his  perplexities  with  Pierre 
Dorion  were  at  an  end. 

Bad  weathex^  very  heavy  rains,  and  an  unus- 
ually early  rise  in  the  Missouri,  rendered  the  as- 
cent of  the  river  toilsome,  slow,  and  dangerous. 
Th<^  rise  of  the  Missouri  does  not  generally  take 
place  until  the  month  of  May  or  June:  the 
present  swelling  of  the  river  must  have  been 
caused  by  a  freshet  in  some  of  its  more  southern 
branches.  It  could  not  have  been  the  great  an- 
nual flood,  as  the  higher  branches  must  still  have 
been  ice-bound. 

And  here  we  cannot  but  pause,  to  notice  the 
admirable  arrangement  of  nature,  by  which  the 
annual  swellings  of  the  various  great  rivers  which 
empty  themselves  into  the  Mississippi,  have  been 
made  tc  precede  each  other  at  considerable  inter- 
vals. Thus,  the  flood  of  the  Red  River  precedes 
that  of  the  Arkansas  by  a  month.  The  Arkan- 
sas, also,  rising  in  a  much  more  southern  latitude 
than  the  Missouri,  takes  the  lead  of  it  in  its 
annual  excess,  and  its  superabundant  waters  are 
disgorged  and  disposed  of  long  before  the  break- 
ing up  of  the  icy  barriers  of  the  north ;  others 


DAMLL  BOONE. 


169 


wise,  did  all  these  mighty  streams  rise  simulta- 
neously, and  discharge  their  verual  floods  into 
the  Mississippi,  an  inundation  would  be  the  con- 
sequence, that  would  submerge  and  devastate  all 
the  lower  country. 

On  the  afternoon  of  tlie  third  day,  January 
17th,  the  boats  touched  at  Charette,  cne  of  the 
old  villages  founded  by  the  original  French  col- 
onists. Here  they  met  with  Daniel  Boone,  the 
renowned  patriarch  of  Kentucky,  who  had  kept 
in  the  advance  of  civilization,  and  on  the  borders 
of  the  wilderness,  still  leading  a  hunter's  life, 
though  now  in  his  eighty-fifth  year.  He  had 
but  recently  returned  from  a  hunting  and  trap- 
ping expedition,  and  had  brought  'nearly  sixty 
beaver  skins  as  trophies  of  his  skill.  The  old 
man  was  still  erect  in  form,  strong  in  limb,  and 
unflinching  in  spirit,  and  as  he  stood  on  the  river 
bank,  watching  the  departure  of  an  expedition 
destined  to  traverse  the  wilderness  to  tlie  very 
shores  of  the  Pacific,  very  probably  felt  a  throb 
of  his  old  pioneer  spirit,  impelling  him  to  shoul- 
der his  rifle  and  join  the  adventurous  band. 
Boone  flourished  several  years  after  this  meeting, 
in  a  vigorous  old  age,  the  Nestor  of  hunters  and 
back»voodsmen ;  and  died,  full  of  sylvan  honor 
and  renown,  in  1818,  in  his  ninety-second  year. 

The  next  morning  early,  as  the  party  were 
yet  encamped  at  the  mouth  of  a  small  stream, 
they  were  visited  by  another  of  these  heroes  of 
the  wilderness,  one  John  Colter,  who  had  accom- 
panied licwis  and  Clarke  in  their  memorable  ex- 
pedition.    He  had  recently  made   oxe  of  those 


'?"■■ 


1  i»-i) 


II 


u^  }>■  n  Biir^i 


}  «.,i 


170 


ASTORIA. 


'^     ! 


vast  internal  voyages  so  characteristic  of  this 
fearless  class  of  men,  and  of  the  immense  regions 
over  which  they  hold  their  lonely  wanderings  ; 
having  come  from  the  head  waters  of  the  Mis- 
souri to  St.  Louis  in  a  small  canoe.  This  dis- 
tance of  three  thousand  miles  he  had  accom- 
plished in  thirty  days.  Colter  kept  with  the 
party  all  the  morning.  He  had  many  particu- 
lars to  give  them  concerning  the  Blackfeet  In- 
dians, a  restless  and  predatory  tribe,  who  had 
conceived  an  implacable  hostility  to  the  white 
men,  in  consequence  of  one  of  their  warriors 
having  been  killed  by  Captain  Lewis,  while  at- 
tempting to  steal  horses.  Through  the  country 
infested  by  these  savages  the  expedition  would 
have  to  proceed,  and  Colter  was  urgent  in  reiter- 
ating the  precautions  that  ought  to  be  observed 
respecting  them.  He  had  himself  experienced 
their  vindictive  cruelty,  and  his  story  deserves 
particular  citation,  as  showing  the  hairbreadth 
adventures  to  which  these  solitary  rovers  of  the 
wilderness  are  exposed. 

Colter,  with  the  hardihood  of  a  regular  trap- 
per, had  cast  himself  loose  from  the  party  of 
Lewis  and  Clarke  in  the  very  heart  of  the  wil- 
derness, and  had  remained  to  trap  beaver  alone 
on  the  head  waters  of  the  Missouri.  Here  he 
fell  in  with  another  lonely  trapper,  like  himself, 
named  Potts,  and  they  agreed  to  keep  together. 
They  were  in  the  very  region  of  the  terrible 
Blackfeet,  at  that  time  thirsting  to  revenge  the 
death  of  their  companion,  and  knew  that  they 
had  to  expect  no  mercy  at  their  hands.     They 


AFFRAY    WITH  THE  BLACK  FEET.        171 


were  obliged  to  keep  concealed  all  day  in  the 
woody  margins  of  the  rivers,  setting  their  traps 
after  nightfall  and  taking  them  up  before  dajr- 
break.  It  was  running  a  fearful  risk  for  the 
sake  of  a  few  beaver  skins  ;  but  such  in  the  life 
of  the  trapper. 

They  were  on  a  branch  of  the  Missouri  called 
Jefferson's  Fork,  and  had  set  their  traps  at  night, 
about  six  miles  up  a  small  river  that  emptied  into 
the  fork.  Early  in  the  morning  they  ascended 
the  river  in  a  canoe,  to  examine  the  traps.  The 
banks  on  each  side  were  high  and  perpendicular, 
and  cast  a  shade  over  the  stream.  As  they  were 
softly  paddling  along,  they  heard  the  trampling 
of  many  feet  upon  the  banks.  Colter  immedi- 
ately gave  the  alarm  of  "  Indians  !  "  and  was  for 
instant  retreat.  Potts  scoffed  at  liim  for  being 
frightened  by  the  trampling  of  a  herd  of  buffa- 
loes. Colter  checked  his  uneasiness  and  paddled 
forward.  They  had  not  gone  much  further  when 
frightful  whoops  and  yells  burst  forth  from  each 
side  of  the  river,  and  several  hundred  Indians 
appeared  on  either  bank.  Signs  were  made  to  the 
unfortunate  trappers  to  come  on  shore.  They 
were  obliged  to  comply.  Before  they  could  get 
out  of  their  canoes,  a  savage  seized  the  rifle  be- 
longing to  Potts.  Colter  sprang  on  shore, 
wrested  the  weapon  from  the  hands  of  the  Indian, 
and  restored  it  to  his  companion,  who  was  still  in 
the  canoe,  and  immediately  pushed  into  the 
stream.  There  was  the  sharp  twang  of  a  bow, 
and  Potts  cried  out  that  he  was  wounded.  Col- 
ter urged  him  to  come  on  shore  and  submit,  as 


SI    ,5 


172 


ASTORIA, 


W  ||,M 


i  i!  ^i 


his  only  chance  for  life ;  but  the  other  knew 
there  waa  no  prospect  of  mercy,  and  determined 
to  die  game.  Leveling  his  rifle,  he  shot  one  of 
the  savages  dead  on  the  spot.  The  next  moment 
he  fell  himself,  pierced  with  innumerable  arrows. 
The  vengeance  of  the  savages  now  turned 
upon  Colter.  He  was  stripped  naked,  and,  hav- 
ing some  knowledge  of  the  Blackfoot  language, 
overheard  a  consultation  as  to  the  mode  of  dis- 
patching him,  so  as  to  derive  the  greatest  amuse- 
ment from  his  death.  Some  were  for  setting 
him  up  as  a  mark,  and  having  a  trial  of  skill  at 
his  expense.  The  chief,  however,  was  for  nobler 
sport.  He  seized  Colter  by  the  shoulder,  and 
demanded  if  he  could  run  fast.  The  unfortunate 
trapper  was  too  well  acquainted  with  Indian  cus- 
toms not  tx)  comprehend  the  drift  of  the  question. 
He  knew  he  was  to  run  for  his  life,  to  iurnish  a 
kind  of  human  hunt  to  his  persecutors.  Though 
in  reality  he  was  noted  among  his  brothev  hun- 
ters for  swiftness  of  foot,  he  assured  th-j  chief 
that  he  was  a  very  bad  runner.  His  stratagem 
gained  him  some  vantage  ground.  Ho  was  led 
by  the  chief  into  the  prairie,  about  four  hundrid 
yards  from  the  main  body  of  savages,  and  then 
turned  loose  to  save  himself  if  he  could.  A 
tremendous  yell  let  him  know  that  the  whole 
pack  of  bloodhounds  were  off  in  full  cry.  Col- 
ter flew  rather  than  ran ;  he  was  astonished  al 
his  own  speed  ;  but  he  had  six  mi'es  of  prairie 
to  traverse  before  he  should  reach  the  Jefferson 
Fork  of  the  Missouri ;  how  could  he  hope  to 
hold  out  such  a  distance  with  the  fearful  odds  of 


A  RUN  FOR  LIFE. 


173 


several  hundred  to  one  against  him  !  The  plain, 
too  abounded  with  the  prickly  pear,  which 
wounded  his  naked  feet  Still  he  fled  on,  dread- 
ing each  moment  to  hear  the  twang  of  a  bow, 
and  to  feel  an  arrow  quivering  at  his  heart.  He 
did  not  even  dare  to  look  round,  lest  he  should 
lose  an  inch  of  that  distance  on  which  his  life 
depended.  He  had  run  nearly  half  way  across 
the  plain  when  the  sound  of  pursuit  grew  some- 
what fainter,  and  he  ventured  to  turn  his  head. 
The  main  body  of  his  pursuers  were  a  consider- 
able distance  behind ;  several  of  the  fastest  run- 
ners were  scattered  in  the  advance ;  while  a 
swift-footed  warrior,  armed  with  a  spear,  was  not 
more  than  a  hundred  yards  behind  him. 

Inspired  with  new  hope.  Colter  redoubled  his 
exertions,  but  strained  himself  to  such  a  degree, 
that  the  blood  gushed  from  his  mouth  and  nos- 
trils, and  streamed  down  his  breast.  He  arrived 
within  a  mile  of  the  river.  The  sound  of  foot- 
steps gathered  upon  him.  A  glance  behind 
showed  his  pursuer  within  twenty  yards,  and 
preparing  to  launch  his  spear.  Stopping  short 
he  turned  round  and  spread  out  his  arms.  The 
savage,  confounded  by  this  sudden  action,  at- 
tempted to  stop  and  hurl  his  spear,  but  fell  in 
the  very  act.  His  spear  stuck  in  the  ground, 
and  the  shaft  broke  in  his  hand.  Colter  plucked 
up  the  pointed  part,  pinned  the  savage  to  tlie 
earth,  and  continued  liis  flight.  The  Indians,  as 
they  arrived  at  their  slaughtered  companion, 
stopped  to  howl  over  him.  Colter  made  the 
Host  of  this  precicus  delay,  gained  the  skirt  ol 


W'"HH 


J    i::S>| 


1',;     i     '  *\ 
I    1}    -(    ■ 


1?     ( 

r       ■• 


174 


ASTORIA. 


cotton-wood  bordjring  the  river,  dashed  through 
it,  and  plunged  into  the  stream.  He  swam  to  a 
•  neighboring  island,  against  the  upper  end  of 
which  the  driftwood  had  lodged  in  such  quanti- 
ties as  to  form  a  natural  raft ;  under  thi^j  he 
dived,  and  swam  below  water  until  he  succeeded 
in  getting  a  breathing  place  between  the  float- 
ing trunks  of  trees,  whose  branches  and  bushes 
formed  a  covert  several  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  water.  He  had  scarcely  drawn  breath  after 
all  his  toils,  when  he  heard  his  pursuers  on  the 
river  bank,  whooping  and  yelling  like  so  many 
fiends.  They  plunged  in  the  river,  and  swam 
to  the  raft.  The  heart  of  Colter  almost  died 
within  him  as  he  saw  them,  through  the  chinks 
of  his  concealment,  passing  and  repassing,  and 
seeking  for  him  in  all  directions.  They  at  length 
gave  up  the  search,  and  he  began  to  rejoice  in 
his  escape,  when  the  idea  presented  itself  that 
they  might  set  the  raft  on  fire.  Here  was  a 
new  source  of  horrible  apprehension,  in  which 
he  remained  until  nightfall.  Fortunately  the 
idea  did  not  suggest  itself  to  the  Indians.  As 
soon  as  it  was  dark,  finding  by  the  silence  around 
that  his  pursuers  had  departed.  Colter  dived  again 
and  came  up  beyond  the  raft.  He  then  swam 
silently  down  the  river  for  a  considerable  dis- 
tance, when  he  landed,  and  kept  on  all  night,  to 
get  as  far  off  as  possible  from  this  dangerous 
neighborhood. 

By  daybreak  he  had  gained  sufficient  distance 
to  relieve  him  from  the  terrors  of  his  savage 
foes ;   but  now  new  sources  of  inquietude  pre- 


r  '»\ 


TRAVELl.fNG    UNDER  DTFFlCULTIEa.    175 


Bented  themselves.  He  was  naked  and  alone, 
in  the  midst  of  an  unbounded  wilderness  ;  his 
only  chance  was  to  reach  a  trading  post  of  the 
Missouri  Company,  situated  on  a  branch  of  the 
Yellowstone  River.  Even  should  he  elude  his 
pursuers,  days  must  elapse  before  he  could  reach 
this  post,  during  which  he  must  traverse  immense 
prairies  destitute  of  shade,  his  naked  body  ex- 
posed to  the  burning  heat  of  the  sun  by  day,  and 
the  dews  and  chills  of  the  night  season,  and  his 
feet  lacerated  by  the  thorns  of  the  prickly  pear. 
Though  he  might  see  game  in  abundance  around 
him,  he  had  no  means  of  killing  any  for  his  sus- 
tenance, and  must  depend  for  food  upon  the 
roots  of  the  earth.  In  defiance  of  these  difficul- 
ties he  pushed  resolutely  forward,  guiding  himself 
in  his  trackless  course  by  those  signs  and  indica- 
tions known  only  to  Indians  and  backwoodsmen ; 
and  after  braving  dangers  and  hardships  enough 
to  break  down  any  spirit  but  that  of  a  western 
pioneer,  arrived  safe  at  the  solitary  post  in  ques- 
tion.^ 

Such  is  a  sample  of  the  rugged  experience 
which  Colter  had  to  relate  of  savage  life ;  yet, 
with  all  these  perils  and  terrors  fresh  in  his  rec- 
ollection, he  could  not  see  the  present  band  on 
their  way  to  those  regions  of  danger  and  adven- 
ture, without  feeling  a  vehement  impulse  to  join 
them.  A  western  trapper  is  like  a  sailor ;  past 
hazards  only  stimulate  him  to  further  risks.  The 
vast  prairie  is  to  the  one  what  the  ocean  is  to  the 
other,  a  boundless  field  of  enterprise  and  exploit. 
1  Bra  ibury   Traveh  in  America^  p.  17. 


176 


ASTORIA. 


\ 


\ 


»    S 


-    I!  '■' 


>3|^ 


!| 

M 

Il  *^  iif: 


II 


I  ■  II 


'    ;i 


\  !l 


-I 


-» 


However  he  may  have  suffered  in  his  last  cruise^ 
he  is  always  ready  to  join  a  new  expedition  ; 
and  tlie  more  adventurous  its  nature,  the  more 
attractive  is  it  to  his  vagrant  spirit. 

Nothing  seems  to  have  kept  Colter  from  con- 
tinuing with  the  party  to  the  shores  of  the  Pa- 
cific but  the  circumstance  of  his  having  recently 
married.  All  the  morning  he  kept  with  them,  bal- 
ancing in  his  mind  the  charms  of  his  bride  against 
those  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  ;  the  former,  how- 
ever, prevailed,  and  after  a  march  of  several  miles, 
he  took  a  reluctant  leave  of  the  travellers,  and 
turned  his  face  homeward. 

Continuing  their  progress  up  the  Missouri,  the 
party  encamped  on  the  evening  of  the  21st  of 
March,  in  the  neighborhood  of  a  little  frontier 
village  of  French  Creoles.  Here  Pierre  Dorion 
met  with  some  of  his  old  comrades,  with  whom 
he  had  a  long  gossip,  and  returned  to  the  camp 
with  rumors  of  bloody  feuds  between  the  Osages 
and  the  loways,  or  Ayaways,  Potowatomies, 
Sioux,  and  Sawkees.  Blood  had  already  been 
shed,  and  scalps  been  taken.  A  war  party,  three 
hundred  strong,  were  prowling  in  the  neighbor- 
hood ;  others  might  be  met  with  higher  up  the 
the  river ;  it  behooved  the  travellers,  therefore,  to 
be  upon  their  guard  against  robbery  or  surprise, 
for  an  Indian  war-party  on  the  march  is  prone  to 
acts  0£  outrage. 

In  consequence  of  this  report,  which  was  sub- 
sequently confirmed  by  further  intelligence,  a 
guard  was  kept  up  at  night  round  the  encamp- 
ment, and  they  aU  slept  on  their  arms.     As  they 


ARRIVAL  AT  FORT  OSAGE, 


177 


msei, 
:ioiJ ; 
more 

con- 
)  Pa- 

ently 
.,  bal- 
yainst 
how- 
miles, 
},  and 


sub- 
Ice,  a 
)amp- 

theT 


were  sixteen  in  number,  and  well  supplied  with 
weapons  and  ammunition,  they  trusted  to  be  able 
to  give  any  marauding  party  a  warm  reception. 
Nothing  occurred,  however,  to  molest  them  on 
their  voyage,  an  1  on  the  8th  of  April  they  came 
in  sight  of  Fort  Osage.  On  their  approach  the 
flag  was  hoisted  on  the  fort,  and  they  saluted  it 
])y  a  discharge  of  fire-arms.  Within  a  short  dis- 
tance of  the  fort  was  an  Osage  village,  the  in- 
habitants of  which,  men,  women,  and  children, 
thronged  down  to  the  water  side  to  witness  their 
landing.  One  of  the  first  persons  they  met  on 
the  river  bank  was  Mr.  Crooks,  who  had  come 
down  in  a  boat,  with  nine  men,  from  the  winter 
encampment  at  Nodowa,  to  meet  them. 

They  remained  at  Fort  Osage  ji,  part  of  three 
days,  during  which  they  were  hospitably  enter- 
tained at  the  garrison  by  Lieutenant  Brownson, 
who  held  a  temporary  command.  They  were 
regaled  also  with  m.  war-feast  at  the  vUlage ;  the 
Osage  warriors  having  returned  from  a  successful 
foray  against  the  loways,  in  which  they  had  taken 
seven  scalps.  They  were  paraded  on  poles  about 
the  village,  followed  by  tb^  warriors  decked  out 
in  all  their  savage  ornc«ments,  and  hideously 
painted  as  if  for  battle. 

By  the  Osage  warriors,  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  com- 
panions were  again  warned  to  be  on  their  guard  in 
ascending  the  river,  as  the  Sioux  tribe  meant  to 
lay  in  wait  and  attack  them. 

On  the  10th  of  April  they  again  embarked, 

iheir  party  being  now  augmented  to  twenty-six, 

by   th3  addition  of  Mr.   Crooks  and  his  boat's 
12 


I 


11 


?«;" 


178 


ASTORIA. 


crew.  They  had  not  proceeded  far,  however^ 
when  there  was  a  great  outcry  from  cne  of  the 
boats ;  it  was  occasioned  by  a  little  domestic  dis- 
cipline in  the  Dorion  family.  The  squaw  of  the 
worthy  interpreter,  it  appeared,  had  been  so  de- 
lighted with  the  scalp-dance,  and  other  festivities 
of  the  Osage  Tillage,  that  she  had  taken  a  strong 
inclination  to  remain  there.  This  had  been  as 
strongly  opposed  by  her  liege  lord,  who  had 
compelled  her  to  embark.  The  good  dame  had 
remained  sulky  ever  since,  whereupon  Pierre, 
seeing  no  other  mode  of  exorcising  the  evil  spirit 
out  of  her,  and  being,  perhaps,  a  little  inspired 
by  whiskey,  had  resorted  to  the  Indian  remedy  of 
the  cudgel,  and  before  his  neighbors  could  inter- 
fere, had  belabored  her  so  soundly,  that  there 
is  no  record  of  her  having  shown  any  refrao- 
tory  symptoms  throughout  the  remainder  of  the 
expedition. 

For  a  week  they  continued  their  voyage,  ex- 
posed to  almost  incessant  rains.  The  bodies  of 
drowned  buffaloes  floated  past  them  in  vast  num- 
bers ;  many  had  drifted  upon  the  shore,  or  against 
the  upper  ends  of  the  rafts  and  islands.  These  had 
attracted  great  flights  of  turkey-buzzards ;  some 
were  banqueting  on  the  carcasses,  others  were 
soaring  far  aloft  in  the  sky,  and  others  were 
perched  on  the  trees,  with  their  backs  to  the  sun, 
awd  their  wings  stretched  out  to  dry,  like  so' 
many  vessels  in  harbor,  spreading  their  sails  af- 
ter a  shower. 

The   turkey-buzzard    {vuUur  aura^  or  golden 
vulture),  when  on  rhe  wing,  is  one  of  the  most 


^^^^^r.Birz^juDs, 


'pecious  and  imno«i*n«    /•  v  , 

'^-'ding  "8  immense  Cs^nT^.  """'""'•  «=" 

'""v.-..?  by  „ere  rolLn  td  /.,*  *""""•'  •"■' 
:•«'-"  of  the  air,  a8  a  ship  «d   ,  ,K      "«  °"  "'«  '"'- 

'"•■•d,  and  often  fs  mit^ltl?' V^  """'  ""'J«»"-« 

favvle^s  upon  earth      itr/T  "T  ""^  '■8''<"-«"t 

""»  the  clouds  to  poui^"^^  "'''*"''«  "<«<*''<'» 

t'-'-y^  h«  lo^  propens  S.  Tf  °*""°"  "•»'  ^e 

fff  character.     Near  T  h    a'1.  '^"'^^  ^^  ^i- 

o^  ioathsooie  odor.        ^^         ®   '"   aspect,   and 

'■^a^J'aftili"  r"^-^  with 

'^here  the  main  body  h«H T     *  ^'^°"'»  Ri^er, 
*e  winter.  ^  ^""^  ''««"  quartered  duri^ 


CHAPTER  XVI. 


011 


p  f» 


^t :!  1'' 


HE  weather  continued  rainy  and  unge- 
nial  for  some  days  after  Mr.  Hunt's  re- 
turn to  Nodowa ;  yet  spring  was  rapidly 
advancing  and  vegetation  was  putting  forth  with 
all  its  early  freshness  and  beauty.  The  snakes 
began  to  recover  from  their  torpor  and  crawl 
forth  into  day;  and  the  neighborhood  of  the  win- 
tering house  seems  to  have  been  much  infested 
with  them.  Mr.  Bradbury,  in  the  course  of  his 
botanical  researches,  found  a  surprising  number  in 
a  half  torpid  state,  under  flat  stones  upon  the 
banks  which  overhung  the  cantonment,  and  nar- 
rowly escaped  being  struck  by  a  rattlesnake, 
which  darted  at  him  from  a  cleft  in  the  rock, 
but  fortunately  gave  him  warning  by  his  rattle. 

The  pigeons,  too,  were  tilling  the  woods  in  vast 
migratory  flocks.  It  is  almost  incredible  to  de- 
scribe the  prodigious  flights  of  these  birds  in  the 
western  wildernesses.  They  appear  absolutely 
in  clouds,  and  move  with  astonishing  velocity, 
their  wings  making  a  whistling  sound  as  they  fly. 
The  rapid  evolutions  of  these  flocks,  wheeling 
and  shifting  suddenly  as  if  with  one  mind  and 
one  impulse ;  the  flashing  changes  of  color  they 
present,  as  their  backs,  their  breasts,  or  the  un- 
der part  of  their  wings   are  turned  to  the  spec- 


PJOEONS  AND   THEIH  HABITS, 


181 


tfttor,  are  singularly  pleasing.  When  they  alight, 
if  on  the  ground,  they  cover  whole  acres  at  a 
time ;  if  upon  trees,  the  branches  often  break 
beneath  their  weight.  If  suddenly  startled  while 
feeding  in  the  midst  of  a  forest,  the  noise  they 
make  in  getting  on  the  wing  is  like  the  roar  of 
a  cataract  or  the  sound  of  distant  thunder. 

A  flight  of  this  kind,  like  an  Egyptian  flight 
of  locusts,  devours  everything  that  serves  for  its 
food  as  it  passes  along.  So  great  were  the  num- 
bers in  the  vicinity  of  the  camp  that  Mr.  Brad- 
bury, in  the  course  of  a  morning's  excursion, 
shot  nearly  three  hundred  with  a  fowling-piece. 
He  gives  a  curious,  though  apparently  a  faithful, 
account  of  the  kind  of  discipline  observed  in 
these  immense  flocks,  so  that  each  may  have  a 
chance  of  picking  up  food.  As  the  front  ranks 
must  meet  with  the  greatest  abundance,  and  the 
rear  ranks  must  have  scanty  pickings,  the  instant 
a  rank  finds  itself  the  hindmost,  it  rises  in  the 
air,  flies  over  the  whole  flock  and  takes  its  place 
in  the  advance.  The  next  rank  follows  in  its 
course,  and  thus  the  last  is  continually  becoming 
first  and  all  by  turns  have  a  front  place  at  the 
banquet. 

The  rains  having  at  length  subsided,  Mr. 
Hunt  broke  up  the  encampment  and  resumed 
his  course  up  the  Missouri. 

The  party  now  consisted  of  nearly  sixty  per- 
sons ;  of  whom  five  were  partners,  one,  John 
Reed,  was  a  clerk  ;  forty  were  Canadian  "  voya- 
geurs,"  or  "  engages**  and  there  were  several 
oanters.     They  embarked  in  four  boats,  one  of 


182 


ASTORIA. 


'  ; 


n 


V 


which  was  of  a  large  size,  mounting  a  swivel 
and  two  howitzers.  AH  were  furnished  with 
masts  and  sails,  to  be  used  wlien  the  wind  was 
sufficiently  favorable  and  strong  to  overpower 
the  current  of  the  river.  Such  was  the  case 
for  the  first  four  or  five  days,  when  they  were 
wafted  Sveadily  up  tlie  stream  by  a  strong  south- 
caster. 

Their  encampments  at  night  were  often  pleas- 
ant and  picturesque:  on  some  beautiful  bank, 
beneath  spreading  trees,  which  afforded  them 
shelter  and  fuel.  The  tents  were  pitched,  the 
fires  made,  and  the  meals  prepared  by  the  voy- 
ageurs,  and  many  a  story  was  told,  and  joke 
passed,  and  song  sung  round  the  evening  fire. 
All,  however,  were  asleep  at  an  early  hour* 
Some  under  the  tehts,  othera  wrapped  in  blan- 
kets before  the  fire,  or  beneath  the  trees;  and 
some  few  in  the  boats  and  canoes. 

On  the  28th,  they  breakfasted  on  one  of  the 
islands  which  lie  at  the  mouth  of  the  Nebraska 
or  Platte  River  —  the  largest  tributary  of  the 
Missouri,  and  about  six  hundred  miles  above  its 
confiuence  with  the  Mississippi.  Thks  broad  but 
shallow  stream  flows  for  an  immense  distance 
through  a  wide  and  verdant  valley  scooped  out 
of  boundless  prairies.  It  draws  its  main  sup- 
plies by  several  forks  or  branches,  from  the 
Bocky  Mountains.  The  mouth  of  this  river  is 
established  as  the  dividing  point  between  the  up- 
per and  lower  Missouri;  and  the  earlier  voya- 
gers, in  their  toilsome  ascent,  before  the  intro- 
duction  of  steamboats,   considered    one-half   of 


^ 


SIGNS   OF    WAR  PARTIES, 


188 


8Up- 

the 
ler  is 
up- 
roya- 
lutro- 
of 


their  labors  accompliahed  when  they  reached 
this  place.  The  passing  of  the  mouth  of  the 
Nebraska,  therefore,  was  equivalent  among  boat- 
men to  the  crossing  of  the  line  among  sailors, 
and  was  celebrated  with  like  ceremonials  of  a 
rough  and  waggish  nature,  practiced  upon  the 
uninitiated  ;  among  which  was  the  old  nautical 
joke  of  shaving.  The  river  deities,  however, 
like  those  of  the  sea,  were  to  be  propitiated  by 
a  bribe,  and  the  infliction  of  these  rude  honors 
to  be  parried  by  a  treat  to  the  adepts. 

At  the  mouth  of  the  Nebraska  new  signs 
were  met  with  of  war  parties  which  had  re- 
cently been  in  the  vicinity.  There  was  the 
frame  of  a  skin  canoe,  in  which  the  warriors  had 
traversed  the  river.  At  night,  also,  the  lurid 
reflection  of  immense  fires  hung  in  the  sky, 
showing  the  conflagration  of  great  tracts  of  the 
prairies.  Such  fires  not  being  made  by  hunters 
BO  late  in  the  season,  i^  was  supposed  they  were 
caused  by  some  wandering  war  parties.  These 
often  take  the  precaution  to  set  the  prairies  on 
fire  behind  them  to  conceal  their  traces  from 
their  enemies.  This  is  chiefly  don6  when  the 
party  has  been  unsuccessful,  and  is  on  the  retreat 
and  apprehensive  of  pursuit.  At  such  time  it 
is  not  safe  even  for  friends  to  fall  in  with  them, 
as  they  are  apt  to  be  in  savage  humor,  and  dis- 
posed to  vent  their  spleen  in  capricious  outrage. 
These  signs,  therefore,  of  a  band  of  marauders 
en  the  prowl,  called  for  some  degree  of  vigilance 
on  the  part  of  the  travellers. 

After  passing  the  Nebraska,  the  party  halted 


18^i 


ASTORIA. 


Si     '  rt  ^' 


for  part  of  two  days  ou  the  bank  of  the  river,  a 
little  above  Papillion  Creek,  to  supply  themselves 
with  a  stock  of  oars  and  poles  from  the  tough 
wood  of  the  ash,  which  is  not  met  with  higher  up 
the  Missouri.  While  the  voyagers  were  thus  oc- 
cupied, the  naturalists  rambled  over  the  adjacent 
country  to  collect  plants.  From  the  summit  of  a 
range  of  bluffs  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river, 
about  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet  high,  they  had 
one  of  tliose  vast  and  magnificent  prospects  which 
sometimes  unfold  themselves  in  those  boundless 
regions.  Below  them  was  the  Valley  of  the 
Missouri,  about  seven  miles  in  breadth,  clad  in 
the  fresh  verdure  of  spring:  enameled  with 
flowers  and  interspersed  with  clumps  and  groves 
of  noble  trees,  between  which  the  mighty  river 
poured  its  turbulent  and  turbid  stream.  The 
interior  of  the  country  presented  a  singular  scene  ; 
the  immense  waste  being  broken  up  by  innumer- 
able green  hills,  not  above  eight  feet  in  height, 
but  extremely  steep,  and  actually  pointed  at  their 
summits.  A  long  line  of  blufis  extended  for 
upwards  of  thirty  miles  parallel  to  the  Missouri, 
with  a  shallow  lake  stretching  along  their  base, 
which  had  evidently  once  formed  a  bed  of  the 
river.  The  surface  of  this  lake  was  covered 
with  aquatic  plants,  on  the  broad  leaves  of  which 
numbers  of  water-snakes,  drawn  forth  by  the 
genial  warmth  of  spring,  were  basking  in  the 
sunshine. 

On  the  2d  day  of  May,  at  the  usual  hour  ot 
embarking,  the  camp  was  thrown  into  some  confu- 
iiou  by  two  of  the  hunters,  named  Harriugt(;u 


■A' 


I 


DESERTION  OF  TWO  nUNTLRS.        185 


expiessing  their  intention  to  abandon  the  expedition 
and  return  home.  One  of  these  had  joined  the 
party  in  the  preceeding  autumn,  having  been 
hunting  for  two  years  on  the  Missouri ;  the  other 
had  engaged  at  St.  Louis,  in  the  following  March, 
and  had  come  up  from  thence  with  Mr.  Hunt. 
He  now  declared  that  he  had  enlisted  merely  for 
the  purpose  of  following  his  brother,  and  persuad- 
ing him  to  return ;  having  been  enjoined  to  do  so 
by  his  mother,  whose  anxiety  had  been  awakened 
by  the  idea  of  his  going  on  such  a  wild  and 
distant  expedition. 

The  loss  of  two  stark  hunters  and  prime 
riflemen  was  a  serious  affair  to  the  party,  for 
they  were  approaching  the  region  where  they 
might  expect  hostilities  from  the  Sioux ;  indeed, 
throughout  the  whole  of  their  perilous  journey, 
the  services  of  such  men  would  be  all  important, 
for  little  reliance  was  to  be  placed  upon  the  valor 
of  the  Canadians  in  case  of  attack.  Mr.  Hunt 
endeavored  by  arguments,  expostulations,  and  en- 
treaties, to  shake  the  determination  of  the  two 
brothers.  He  represented  to  them  that  they  were 
between  six  and  seven  hundred  miles  above  the 
mouth  of  the  Missouri ;  that  they  would  have  four 
hundred  miles  to  go  before  they  could  reach  the 
habitation  of  a  white  man.  throughout  which  they 
would  be  exposed  to  all  kinds  of  risks ;  since,  he 
declared,  if  they  persisted  in  abandoning  him  and 
breaking  their  faith,  he  would  not  furnish  them 
with  a  single  round  of  ammunition.  All  was  in 
vain ;  they  obstinately  persisted  in  their  reao- 
lutiju ;  whereupon,  Mr.  Hunt,  partly  incited  by 


186 


ASTORIA. 


Ill 


r    if  1 


indignation,  partly  by  the  policy  of  deterring 
others  from  desertioii,  put  his  threat  into  execu- 
tion, .  and  left  them  to  find  their  way  back  to 
the  settlements  without,  as  he  supposed,  a  single 
bullet  or  charge  of  powder. 

The  boats  now  continued  their  slow  and  toil- 
some course  for  several  days,  against  the  curren* 
of  the  river.  The  late  signs  of  roaming  war 
parties  caused  a  vigilant  watch  to  be  kept  up  at 
night  when  the  crews  encamped  on  shore;  nor 
wa  this  vigilance  superfluous  ;  for  on  the  night 
of  the  seventh  instant,  there  was  a  wild  and 
fearful  yell,  and  eleven  Sioux  warriors,  stark 
tiaked,  with  tomahawks  in  their  hands,  rushed 
into  the  camp.  They  were  instantly  surrounded 
and  seized,  whereupon  their  leader  called  out  to 
his  followers  to  desist  from  any  violence,  and 
pretended  to  be  peifectly  pacific  in  his  intentions. 
It  proved,  however,  that  they  were  a  part  of  the 
war  party,  the  skeleton  of  whose  canoe  had  been 
seen  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  Platte,  and  the 
reflection  of  whose  fires  had  been  descried  in  the 
air.  They  had  been  disappointed  oi  defeated  in 
the  fora^,  and  in  their  rage  and  mortification 
these  eleven  warriors  had  *•  devoted  their  clothes 
to  the  medicine."  This  is  a  desperate  act  of 
Indian  braves  when  foiled  in  war,  and  in  dread 
of  scoffs  and  sneers.  In  such  case  they  some- 
t'^nes  throw  off^  their  clothes  and  ornaments,  de- 
vote themselves'  to  the  Great  Spirit,  and  attempt 
some  reckltss  exploit  with  which  to  cover  their 
disgrace.  Woe  to  any  defenseless  party  of  white 
men  that  may  then  fall  in  their  way  I 


11 


I 


VILLAGE  OF  THE  0MAHA8. 


18T 


lempt 

Itheir 

rhitti 


Such  was  the  explanation  given  by  Pierre 
Dorion,  the  half-breed  interpreter,  of  this  wild 
intrusion  into  the  oarap ;  and  the  party  were  so 
exasperated  when  apprized  of  the  sanguinary 
intentions  of  the  prisoners,  that  they  were  for 
shooting  them  on  the  spot.  Mr,  Hunt,  however, 
exerted  his  usual  moderation  and  humanity,  and 
ordered  that  they  should  be  conveyed  across  tliu 
river  in  one  of  the  boats,  threatening  them 
however,  with  certain  death,  if  again  caught  in 
any  hostile  act. 

On  the  lOth  of  May  the  party  arrived  at  the 
Omaha  (pronounced  Omawhaw)  village,  at)out 
eight  hundred  and  thirty  miles  above  the  mouth 
of  the  Missouri,  and  encamped  in  its  neighborhoodk 
The  village  was  situated  under  a  hill  on  the  bank 
of  the  river,  and  consisted  of  about  eighty  lodges. 
These  were  of  a  circular  and  conical  form,  and 
about  sixteen  feet  in  diameter ;  being  mere  tentd 
of  dressed  buffalo  skins,  sewed  together  and 
stretched  on  long  poles,  inclined  towards  each 
other  so  as  to  cross  at  about  half  their  height. 
Thus  the  naked  tops  of  the  poles  diverge  in  such 
a  manner  that,  if  they  were  covered  with  skins 
like  the  lower  ends,  the  tent  would  be  shaped 
like  an  hour*glass,  and  present  the  appearance  of 
one  cone  inverted  on  the  apex  of  another. 

The  forms  of  Indian  lodges  are  worthy  of 
ittention,  each  tribe  having  a  different  mode  of 
shaping  and  arranging  them,  so  that  it  is  easy  to 
tell,  on  seeing  a  lodge  or  an  encampement  at  a 
distance,  to  what  tribe  the  inhabitants  belong. 
The  exterior  of  tlxe  Omaha  lodges  have  often  a 


188 


ASTORIA. 


<S:ti 


gay  and  fanciful  appearance,  being  painted  with 
undulating  bands  of  red  or  yellow,  or  decorated 
with  rude  figures  of  horses,  deer,  and  buffaloes, 
and  with  human  faces,  painted  like  full  moons, 
four  an«l  five  feet  broad. 

The  Ornahas  were  once  one  of  the  numerous 
and  powerful  tribes  of  the  prairies,  vying  in 
warlike  might  and  prowess  with  the  Sioux,  the 
Pawoees,  the  Sauks,  the  Kcnzas,  and  the  latans. 
Tiieir  wars  w'th  the  Sioux,  however,  had  thinned 
their  ranks,  and  the  smallpox  in  1802  had  swept 
off  two  thirds  of  their  number.  At  the  time  of 
Mr.  Hunt's  visit  they  still  boasted  about  two 
hundred  warriors  and  hunters,  but  they  are  now 
fast  melting  away,  and  before  long,  will  be 
numbered  among  those  extinguished  nations  of 
the  west  that  exist  but  in  tradition. 

Id  his  correspondence  with  Mr.  Aslor,  from 
this  point  of  his  journey,  Mr.  Hunt  gives  a  sad 
account  of  the  Indian  tribes  bordering  on  the 
river.  They  were  in  continual  war  with  each 
other,  and  their  wars  were  of  the  most  harassing 
kind ;  consisting,  not  merely  of  main  conflicts 
and  expeditions  of  moment,  involving  the  sack- 
ings, burnings,  pud  massacres  of  towns  and 
villages,  but  of  individual  acts  of  treachery, 
nmrder,  and  cold-blooded  cruelty ;  or  of  vaunting 
and  foolhardy  exploits  of  single  warriors,  either 
to  avenge  some  personal  wrong,  or  gain  the  vain- 
glorious trophy  of  a  scalp.  The  lonely  hunter, 
the  wandering  wayfarer,  tiie  poor  squaw  cutting 
wood  or  gathering  corn,  was  liable  to  be  surprised 
And  slaughtered.     In  this  way  tribes  werr  either 


from 
a  sad 
the 
each 
ssing 
iflicts 
I  sack- 
and 
bhery, 
luting 
iither 
Ivaiii- 
inter, 
ttn)g 
Irised 
lither 


BLACKBIRD,    THE   OMAHA   CBIJLF.       189 

swept  away  at  once,  or  gradually  thinned  out, 
and  savage  life  was  surrounded  with  constant 
horrors  and  alarms.  That  the  race  of  red  men 
should  diminish  from  year  to  year,  and  so  few 
should  survive  of  the  numerous  nations  which 
evidently  once  peopled  the  vast  regions  of  the 
west,  is  nothing  surprising ;  it  is  rather  matter  of 
surprise  that  so  many  should  survive ;  for  the 
existence  of  a  savage  in  these  parts  seems  little 
better  than  a  prolonged  and  all-besetting  death. 
It  is,  in  fact,  a  caricature  of  the  boasted  romance 
of  feudal  times ;  chivalry  in  its  native  and 
uncultured  state,  and  knight-errantry  run  wild. 

In  their  most  prosperous  days,  the  Omahaa 
looked  upon  themselves  as  the  most  powerful 
and  perfect  of  human  beings,  and  considered 
all  created  things  as  made  for  their  peculiar  use 
and  benefit.  It  is  this  tribe  of  whose  chief,  the 
famous  Wash-ing-guh-sah-ba,  or  Blackbird,  such 
savage  and  romantic  stories  are  told.  He  had 
died  about  ten  years  previous  to  the  arrival  of 
Mr.  Hunt's  party,  but  his  name  was  still  men- 
tioned with  awe  by  his  people.  He  was  one  of 
the  first  among  the  Indian  chiefs  on  the  Missouri 
to  deal  with  the  white  traders,  and  showed  great 
sagacity  in  levying  his  royal  dues.  When  a 
•  trader  arrived  in  his  village,  he  caused  all  his 
goods  to  be  brought  into  his  lodge  and  opened. 
From  these  he  selected  whatever  suited  his 
sovereign  pleasure ;  blankets,  tobacco,  whiskey, 
powder,  ball,  beads,  and  red  paint ;  and  laid  the 
articles  on  one  side,  without  deigning  to  give  any 
^compensation.     Then  calling  to  him  his  herald  or 


190 


ASTORIA. 


I 


J  ■■> 


crier,  he  would  order  him  to  mount  on  top  of  the 
lodge  and  summon  all  the  tribe  to  bring  in  their 
peltries,  and  trade  with  the  white  man.  The 
lodge  would  soon  be  crowded  with  Indians  bring- 
ing bear,  beaver,  otter,  and  other  skins.  No  one 
was  allowed  to  dispute  the  prices  fixed  by  the 
white  trader  upon  his  articles  ;  who  took  care  to 
indemnify  himself  five  times  over  for  the  goods 
set  apart  by  the  chief.  In  this  way  the  Black- 
bird enriched  himself,  and  enriched  the  white 
men,  and  became  exceedingly  popular  among  the 
traders  of  the  Misvsouri.  His  people,  however, 
were  not  equally  satisfied  by  a  regulation  of 
trade  which  worked  so  manifestly  against  them, 
and  began  to  show  signs  of  discontent.  Upon 
this  a  crafty  and  unprincipled  trader  revealed  a 
secret  to  the  Blackbird,  by  which  he  might  ac- 
quire unbor*  ded  sway  over  his  ignorant  and 
superstitious  subjects.  He  instructed  him  in 
the  poisonous  qualities  of  arsenic,  and  furnished 
him  with  an  ample  supply  of  that  baneful  drug. 
From  this  time  the  Blackbird  seemed  endowed 
with  supernatural  powers,  to  possess  the  gift  of 
prophecy,  and  to  hold  the  disposal  of  life  and 
death  within  his  hands.  Woe  to  any  one  who 
questioned  his  authority  or  dared  to  dispute  his 
commands !  The  Blackbird  prophesied  his. 
death  within  a  certain  time,  and  he  had  the  secret 
means  of  verifying  his  prophecy.  Within  the 
fated  period  the  offender  was  smitten  with 
6trange  and  sudden  disease,  and  perished  from 
the  face  of  the  earth.  Every  one  stood  aghast 
at  these  multiplied  examples  of  his  superhuman 


I' I 


i  '  '^m 


BLACKBIRD'S  PROWESS. 


191 


miglit,  and  dreaded  to  displease  so  omnipotent 
and  vindictive  a  being;  and  the  Blackbird  en- 
joyed a  wide  and  undisputed  away. 

It  was*  not,  however,  by  terror  alone  that  he 
ruled  his  people ;  he  was  a  warrior  of  the  first 
order,  and  his  exploits  in  arms  were  the  theme 
of  young  and  old.  His  career  had  begun  by 
hardships,  having  been  taken  prisoner  by  the 
Sioux,  in  early  youth.  Under  his  command,  the 
Omahtis  obtained  great  character  for  military 
prowess,  nor  did  he  permit  an  insult  or  an  injury 
to  one  of  his  tribe  to  .  pass  unrevenged.  The 
Pawnee  republicans  had  inflicted  a  gross  indig- 
nity on  a  favorite  and  distinguished  Omaha 
brave.  The  Blackbird  assembled  his  warriors, 
led  them  against  the  Pawnee  town,  attacked  it 
with  irresistible  fury,  slaughtered  a  great  number 
of  its  inhabitants,  and  burnt  it  to  the  ground. 
He  waged  fierce  and  bloody  war  against  »he 
Ottoes  for  many  years,  until  peace  was  effected 
between  them  by  the  mediation  of  the  whites. 
Fearless  in  battle,  and  fond  of  signalizing  him- 
self, he  dtizzled  his  followers  by  daring  acts.  In 
attacking  a  Kanza  village,  he  rode  singly  round 
it,  loading  and  discharging  his  rifle  at  the  inhab- 
itants as  he  galloped  past  them.  He  kept  up  in 
war  the  same  idea  of  mysterious  and  supernatural 
power.  At  one  time,  vjhen  pursuing  a  war 
party  by  their  tracks  across  the  prairies,  he 
repeatedly  discharged  his  rifle  into  the  prints 
made  by  their  feet  and  by  the  hoofs  of  their 
horses,  assuring  his  followers  that  he  would 
tliereby  cripple  the  fugitives,  so  that  they  would 


192 


ASTORIA. 


i;H 


easily  be  overtaken.  He  in  fact  did  overtako 
them,  and.  destroyed  them  almost  to  a  man  ;  and 
his  victory  was  considered  miraculous,  both  by 
friend  and  foe.  By  these  and  similar  exploits, 
he  made  himself  the  pride  and  boast  of  his  peo- 
ple, and  became  popular  among  them,  notwith- 
standing his  death-denouncing  fiat. 

With  all  bis  savage  and  terrific  qualities,  he 
was  sensible  of  the  power  of  female  beauty,  and 
capable  of  love.  A  war  party  of  the  Poucas  had 
made  a  foray  into  the  lands  of  the  Omahas, 
and  carried  off  a  number  of  women  and  horses. 
The  Blackbird  was  roused  to  fury,  and  took 
the  field  with  all  his  braves,  swearing  to  "  eat 
up  the  Ponca  nation "  —  the  Indian  threat  of 
exterminating  war.  The  Poncas,  sorely  pressed, 
took  refuge  behind  a  rude  bulwark  of  earth ; 
but  the  Blackbird  kept  up  so  galling  a  fire,  that 
he  seemed  likely  to  execute  his  menace.  In 
their  ejctrcmity  they  sent  forth  a  herald,  bearing 
the  calumet  or  pipe  of  peace,  but  he  was  shot 
down  by  order  of  the  Blackbird.  Another  herald 
was  sent  forth  in  similar  guise,  but  he  shared  a 
like  fate.  The  Ponca  chief  then,  as  a  last  hope, 
arrayed  his  beautiful  daughter  in  her  finest  orna- 
ments, and  sent  her  forth  with  a  calumet,  to  sue 
for  peace.  The  charms  of  the  Indian  maid 
touched  the  stern  heart  of  the  Blackbird  ;  he 
accepted  the  pipe  at  her  hand,  smoked  it,  and 
fn)m  that  time  a  peace  took  place  between  the 
Poncas  and  the  Omahas. 

This  beautiful  damsel,  in  all  probability,  was 
the  favorite  wife  whose  fate  makes  so  tragic  an 


BLACKBIRD'S  CRIME. 


198 


,  he 
and 


sue 

Imaid 

;  he 

and 

the 

was 
ao 


incident  in  the  story  of  the  Blackbird.  Her 
youth  and  beauty  had  ^ined  an  absohite  sway 
over  his  rugged  heart,  so  that  he  distinguisiied 
her  above  all  of  hil  other  wives.  The  habitual 
gratification  of  his  vindictive  impulses,  however, 
had  taken  away  from  him  a!'  mastery  over  his 
passions,  and  rendered  him  liable  to  the  most 
fiiriouH  transports  of  rage.  In  one  of  these  his 
beHUtiful  wife  had  the  misfortune  to  offend  him, 
when  suddenly  drawing  his  knife,  he  laid  her 
dead  at  his  feet  with  a  single  blow. 

In  an  instant  his  frenzy  was  at  an  end.  He 
gazed  for  a  time  in  mute  bewilderment  upon  his 
victim  ;  then  drawing  his  buffalo  robe  over  his 
head,  he  sat  down  beside  the  corpse,  and  re- 
mained brooding  over  his  crime  and  his  loss. 
Three  days  elapsed,  yet  the  chief  continued 
silent  and  motionless ;  tasting  no  food,  and  ap- 
parently sleepless.  It  was  apprehended  that  he 
intended  to  starve  himself  to  death;  his  people 
approached  him  in  trembling  awe,  and  entreated 
him  once  more  to  uncover  his  face  and  be  com- 
forted ;  but  he  remained  unmoved.  At  length 
one  of  his  warriors  brought  in  a  small  child,  and 
laying  it  on  the  ground,  placed  the  toot  of  the 
Blackbird  upon  its  neck.  The  heart  of  the 
gloomy  savage  was  touched  by  this  appeal ;  he 
threw  aside  his  robe  ;  made  an  harangue  upon 
what  he  had  done ;  and  from  that  time  forward 
seemed  to  have  thrown  the  load  of  grief  and 
remorse  from  his  mind. 

He    still    retained    his   fatal    and    mysterious 

fiecret,and  with  it  his  terrific  power;  but,  though 

'.3 


194 


AST  OR.  A. 


\  I  -^ 


able  to  deal  death  to  his  enemies,  he  could  not 
avert  it  from  himself  or  his  friends.  In  1802 
the  small-pox,  that  dreadful  pestilence,  which 
i^wept  over  the  land  like  a  fir6  over  the  prairie, 
made  its  appearance  in  the  village  of  the  Omahas. 
The  poor  savages  saw  with  dismay  the  ravages 
of  a  malady,  loathsome  and  agonizing  in  its  de- 
tails, and  which  set  the  skill  and  experience  of 
their  conjurers  and  medicine  men  at  defiance.  In 
a  little  while,  two  thirds  of  the  population  were 
swept  from  the  face  of  the  earth,  and  the  doom 
of  the  rest  seemed  sealed.  The  stoicism  of  the 
warriors  was  at  an  end ;  they  became  wild  and 
desperate ;  some  set  fire  to  the  village  as  a  last 
means  of  checking  the  pestilence ;  others,  in  a 
frenzy  of  despair,  put  their  wives  and  children  to 
death,  that  they  might  be  spared  the  agonies  of 
an  inevitaolo  disease,  and  that  they  might  all  go 
to  some  better  country. 

When  the  general  horror  and  dismay  was  at 
its  height,  the  Blackbird  himself  was  struck  down 
with  the  malady.  The  poor  savages,  when  they 
saw  their  chief  in  danger,  forgot  their  own  mis- 
eries, and  surrounded  his  dying  bed.  His  dom- 
inant spirit,  and  his  love  for  the  white  men,  were 
evinced  in  his  latest  breath,  with  which  he  desig- 
nated his  place  of  sepulture.  It  was  to  be  on  a 
hill  or  promontory,  upwards  of  four  hundred  feet 
in  height,  overlooking  a  great  extent  of  the 
Missouri,  from  vvhence  he  had  been  accustomed 
to  watch  for  the  barks  of  the  white  men.  The 
Missouri  washes  the  base  of  the  promontory,  and 
after  winding  and  doubling  in  many  links  and 


BURIAL   OF  BLACKBIRD, 


195 


mazes  in  the  plain  below,  returns  to  within  nine 
hundred  yards  of  its  start! ng-plnce :  so  that  for 
thirty  miles  navigating  with  sail  and  oar,  the 
the  voyager  finds  himself  continually  near  to  this 
singular  promontory  as  if  spell-bound. 

It  was  the  dying  command  of  the  Blackbird 
that  his  tomb  should  be  upon  the  summit  of  this 
hill,  in  which  he  should  be  interred,  seated  on 
his  favorite  horse,  that  he  might  overlook  his  an- 
cient domain,  and  behold  the  barks  of  the  white 
men  as  they  came  up  the  river  to  trade  with  his 
people. 

His  dying  orders  were  faithfully  obeyed.  His 
corpse  was  placed  astride  of  his  war-steed  and 
a  mound  raised  over  them  on  the  summit  of 
the  hill.  On  top  of  the  mound  was  erected  a 
staff,  from  which  fluttered  the  banner  of  the  chief- 
tain, and  the  scalps  that  he  had  taken  in  battle. 
When  the  expedition  under  Mr.  Hunt  visited  that 
part  of  the  country,  the  staff  still  remained,  with 
the  fragments  of  the  banner ;  and  the  super- 
stitious rite  of  placing  food  from  time  to  time  on 
the  mound,  for  the  use  of  the  deceased,  was  still 
observed  by  the  Omahas.  That  rite  has  since 
fallen  into  disuse,  for  the  tribe  itself  is  almost  ex- 
tinct. Yet  the  hill  of  the  Blackbird  continues  an 
object  of  veneration  to  the  wandering  savage,  and 
a  landmark  to  the  voyager  of  the  Missouri ;  and 
ns  the  civilized  traveller  comes  within  sight  of  its 
spell-bound  crest,  the  mound  is  pointed  out  to  him 
'rom  afar,  which  still  incloses  the  grim  skeletons 
j>f  the  Indian  warrior*  and  his  horse. 


CHAPTER  XVn. 


ti. 


f)»lii 


HTLE  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  party  were  so- 
journing at  the  village  of  the  Omahas, 
three  Sioux  Indians  of  the  Yankton 
Ahua  tribe  arrived,  bringing  unpleasant  intel- 
ligence. They  reported  that  certain  bauds  of  the 
Sioux  Tetons,  who  inhabited  a  region  many  leagues 
further  up  tlie  Missouri,  were  near  at  hand,  await- 
ing the  approach  of  the  party,  with  the  avowed 
intention  of  opposing  their  progress. 

The  Sioux  Tetons  were  at  that  time  a  sort  of 
pirates  of  the  Missouri,  who  considered  the  well- 
freighted  bark  of  the  American  trader  fair  game. 
They  had  their  own  traffic  with  the  British  mer- 
chants of  the  Northwest,  who  brought  thm  regular 
supplies  of  merchandise  by  way  of  tha  river  St 
Peter.  Being  thus  independent  of  tlie  Missouri 
traders  for  their  supplies,  they  kept  no  terms  with 
them,  but  plundered  them  whenever  they  had  an 
opportunity.  It  has  been  insinuated  that  they 
were  prompted  to  these  outriges  by  the  British 
merchants,  who  wished  to  keep  off  all  rivals  in 
the  Indian  trade ;  but  others  allege  another  mo- 
tive, and  one  savoring  of  a  deeper  policy.  Th< 
Bioux,  by  their  intercourse  with  the  British  traders 
had  acquired  the  use  of  fire-arms,  which  had  given 
them  vast  superiority  over  other .  tribes  higher  up 


PIRATES   OF   THE  MJSSOVRl. 


197 


the  Missouri.  They  had  made  themselves  also^ 
in  a  manner,  factors  for  the  upper  tribes,  supply- 
ing  them  at  second  hand,  and  at  greatly  advanced 
prices,  with  goods  derived  from  the  white  men. 
The  Sioux,  therefore,  saw  with  jealousy  the 
American  traders  pushing  their  way  up  the  Mis- 
souri ;  foreseeing  that  the  upper  tribes  would  thus 
be  relieved  from  all  dependence  on  them  for  sup- 
plies ;  nay,  what  was  worse,  would  be  furnished 
with  fire-arms,  and  elevated  into  formidable  rivals. 

We  have  already  alluded  to  a  case  in  which  Mr. 
Crooks  and  Mr.  M'Lellan  had  been  interrupted 
in  a  trading  voyage  by  these  ruffians  of  the  river, 
and,  as  it  is  in  some  degree  connectod  with  cir« 
cumstances  hereafter  to  be  related,  we  shall  spe- 
cify it  more  particularly. 

About  two  years  before  the  time  of  which  we 
are  treating,  Crooks  and  M'Lellan  were  ascending 
the  river  in  boats  with  a  party  of  about  forty  men, 
bound  on  one  of  their  trading  expeditious  to  the 
upper  tribes.  In  one  of  the  bends  of  the  river, 
where  the  channel  made  a  deep  curve  under  im- 
pending banks,  they  suddenly  heard  yells  and 
shouts  above  them,  and  beheld  the  cliffs  overhead 
covered  with  armed  savages.  It  was  a  band  of 
Sioux  warriors,  upwards  of  six  hundred  strong. 
They  brandished  their  weapons  in  a  menacing 
manner,  and  ordered  the  boats  to  turn  back  and 
land  lower  down  the  river.  There  was  no  dis- 
puting these  commands,  for  they  had  the  power 
to  shower  destruction  upon  the  white  men,  with- 
out risk  to  themselves.  Crooks  and  M'Lellan, 
therefore,  turned  back  with  feigned  alacrity ;  and, 


198 


ASTORIA. 


landing,  had  an  interview  with  the  Sioux.  The 
latter  forbade  them,  under  pain  of  exterminating 
hostility,  from  attempting  to  proceed  up  the  river, 
but  offered  to  trade  peacefully  with  them  if  they 
would  halt  where  they  were.  The  party,  being 
principally  composed  of  voyageurs,  was  too  weak 
to  contend  with  so  superior  a  force,  and  one  so 
easily  augmented;  they  pretended,  therefore,  to 
comply  cheerfully  with  their  arbitrary  dictation, 
and  immediately  proceeded  to  cut  down  trees  and 
erect  a  trading  house.  The  warrior  band  departed 
for  their  village,  which  was  about  twenty  miles 
distant,  to  collect  objects  of  traffic ;  they  left  six 
or  eight  of  their  number,  however,  to  keep  watch 
upon  the  white  men,  and  scouts  were  continaally 
passing  to  and  fro  with  intelligence. 

Mr.  Crooks  saw  that  it  would  be  impossible  to 
prosecute  his  voyage  without  the  danger  of  hav- 
ing his  boats  plundered,  and  a  great  part  of  his 
men  massacred ;  he  determined,  however,  not  to 
be  entirely  frustrated  in  the  objects  of  his  expedi- 
tion. While  he  continued,  therefore,  with  great 
apparent  earnestness  and  assiduity,  the  construction 
of  the  trading  house,  he  dispatched  the  hunters 
and  trappers  of  his  party  in  a  canoe,  to  make  their 
way  up  the  river  to  the  original  place  of  des- 
tination, there  to  busy  themselves  in  trapping  and 
collecting  peltries,  and  to  await  his  arrival  at 
gome  future  period. 

As  soon  as  the  detachment  had  had  sufficient 
»ime  to  ascend  beyond  the  hostile  country  of  the 
Sioux,  Mr.  Crooks  suddenly  broke  up  his  feigned 
trading   establishnrent,   embarked   his   men   and 


3PLELLAIP8   VOW, 


199 


3ient 

the 

jned 

aud 


•  effects,  and,  after  giviug  the  astonished  rear-guard 
of  savages  a  galling  and  indignant  message  to  take 
to  their  countrymen,  pushed  down  the  river  with 
all  speed,  sparing  neiUier  oar  nor  paddle,  day  nor 
night,  until  fairly  beyond  the  swoop  of  these  river 
hawks. 

What  increased  the  irritation  of  Messrs.  Crooks 
and  M'Lellan  at  this  mortifying  check  to  their 
gainful  enterprise,  was  the  information  that  a 
rival  trader  was  at  the  bottom  of  it;  the  Sioux, 
it  is  said,  having  been  instigated  to  this  outrage 
by  Mr.  Manuel  Lisa,  the  leading  partner  and 
agent  of  the  Missouri  Fur  Company,  already 
mentioned.  This  intelligence,  whether  true  or 
false,  so  roused  the  fiery  temper  of  M'Lellan,  that 
he  swore,  if  ever  he  fell  in  with  Lisa  in  the  In- 
dian country,  he  would  shoot  him  on  the  spot ;  a 
mode  of  redress  perfectly  in  unison  with  the  char- 
acter of  the  man,  and  the  code  of  honor  prevalent 
beyond  the  frontier. 

If  Crooks  and  M'Lellan  had  been  exasperated 
by  the  insolent  conduct  of  the  Sioux  Tetons,  and 
the  loss  which  it  had  occasioned,  those  freebooters 
had  been  no  less  indignant  at  being  outwitted  by 
the  white  men,  and  disappointed  of  their  anticipated 
gains,  and  it  was  apprehended  they  would  be 
particularly  hostile  against  the  present  expedition, 
when  they  should  learn  that  these  gentlemen  were 
engaged  in  it. 

All  these  causes  of  uneasiness  were  concealed 
as  much  as  possible  from  the  Canadian  voyageurs, 
lest  they  should  become  intimidated ;  it  vas  im- 
possible, however,  to  prevent  the  rumors  brought 


200 


ASTOBIA. 


■'.•}'> 


by  the  Indians  from  leaking  out,  and  they  became> 
subjects  of  gossiping  and  exaggeration.  The 
chief  of  the  Omahas,  too,  on  returning  from  a 
hunting  excursion,  reported  that  two  men  had 
been  killed  some  distance  above,  by  a  band  of 
Sioux.  This  added  to  the  fears  that  already  began 
to  be  excited.  The  voyageurs  pictured  to  them- 
selves bands  of  fierce  warriors  stationed  along 
each  bank  of  the  river,  by  whom  they  would  be 
exposed  to  be  shot  down  in  their  boats :  or  lurk- 
ing hordes,  who  would  set  on  them  at  night,  and 
massacre  them  in  their  encampments.  Some  lost 
heart,  and  proposed  to  return,  rather  than  fight 
their  way,  and,  in  a  manner,  run  the  gauntlet 
through  the  country  of  these  piratical  marauders. 
In  fact,  three  men  deserted  while  at  this  village. 
Luckily,  their  place  was  supplied  by  three  others 
who  happened  to  be  there,  and  who  were  prevailed 
on  to  join  the  expedition  by  promises  of  liberal 
pay,  and  by  being  fitted  out  and  equipped  in  com- 
plete style. 

The  irresolution  and  discontent  visible  among 
some  of  his  people,  arising  at  times  almost  to 
mutiny,  and  the  occasional  desertions  which  took 
place  while  thus  among  friendly  tribes,  and  witliin 
reach  of  the  frontiers,  added  greatly  to  the  anx- 
ieties of  Mr.  Hunt,  and  rendered  him  eager  to 
press  forward  and  leave  a  hostile  tract  behind  him, 
so  that  it  would  be  as  perilous  to  return  as  to  keep 
on,  and  no  one  would  dare  to  desert. 

Accordingly,  on  the  15  th  of  May  he  departed 
from  the  village  of  the  Omahas,  and  set  forward 
towards   the   country  of   the   foi^midable  Sioux 


VALUABLE  ADDITIONS. 


201 


rted 
rard 


Tetoiis.  For  the  first  five  days  they  had  a  fair 
and  fresh  breeze,  and  the  boats  made  good  prog 
ress.  The  wind  then  came  ahead,  and  the  river 
beginning  to  rise,  and  to  increase  in  rapidity, 
betokened  the  commencement  of  the  annual  flood, 
caused  by  the  melting  of  the  snow  on  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  and  the  vernal  rains  of  the  upper 
prairies. 

As  they  were  now  entering  a  region  whero 
foes  might  be  lying  in  wait  on  either  bank,  \\ 
was  determined,  in  hunting  for  game,  to  confine 
themselves  principally  to  the  islands,  which  some- 
times extend  to  considerable  length,  and  are  beau- 
tifully wooded,  affording  abundant  pasturage  and 
shade.  On  one  of  these  they  killed  three  buffa- 
loes and  two  elks,  and  halting  on  the  edge  of  a 
beautiful  prairie,  made  a  sumptuous  hunter's  re- 
past. They  had  not  long  resumed  their  boats 
and  pulled  along  the  river  banks  when  they  des- 
cried a  canoe  approaching,  navigated  by  two  men, 
whom,  to  their  surprise,  they  ascertained  to  be* 
white  men.  They  proved  to  be  two  of  those 
dtrange  and  fearless  wanderers  of  the  wilderness, 
the  trappers.  Their  names  were  Benjamin  Jones 
and  Alexander  Carson.  They  had  been  for  two 
years  past  hunting  and  trapping  near  the  head 
of  the  Missouri,  and  were  thus  floating  for  thou- 
sands of  miles  in  a  cockle-shell,  down  a  turbu- 
lent stream,  through  regions  infested  by  savage 
tribes,  yet  apparently  as  easy  and  unconcerned 
as  if  navigatiiig  securely  in  the  midst  of  civiliza- 
tion. 

The   acquisition   of  two  such  hardy,  experi- 


202 


ASTORIA. 


euced,  and  dauntless  hunters  was  peculiarly  de« 
sirable  at  the  present  moment.  They  needed 
but  little  persuasion.  The  wilderness  is  the 
home  of  the  trapper ;  like  the  sailor,  he  jares 
but  little  to  which  point  of  the  compass  he 
steers  ;  and  Jones  and  Carson  readily  abandoned 
their  voyage  to  St.  Loais,  and  turned  their  faces 
towards  the  Rocky  Mountains  and  the  Pacific. 

The  two  naturalists,  Mr.  Bradbury  and  Mr. 
Nuttall,  who  had  joined  the  expedition  at  St. 
Louis,  still  accompanied  it,  and  pursued  their  re- 
searches on  all  occasions.  Mr.  Nuttall  seems  to 
have  been  exclusively  devoted  to  his  scientific 
pursuits.  He  was  a  zealous  botanist,  and  all 
his  enthusiasm  was  awakened  at  beholding  a  new 
world,  as  it  were,  opening  upon  him  in  the 
boundless  prairies,  clad  in  the  vernal  and  varie- 
gated robe  of  unknown  flowers.  Whenever  the 
boats  landed  at  meal  times,  or  for  any  temporary 
purpose,  he  would  spring  on  shore,  and  set  out 
on  a  hunt  for  new  specimens.  Every  plant  or 
flower  of  a  rare  or  unknown  species  was  eagerly 
seized  as  a  prize.  Delighted  with  the  treasures 
spreading  themselves  out  before  him,  he  went 
groping  and  stumbling  along  among  the  wilder- 
ness of  sweets,  forgetful  of  everything  bu':  his 
immediate  pursuit,  and  had  often  to  be  sought 
after  when  the  boats  were  about  to  resume  their 
course.  At  such  times  he  would  be  found  far 
off  in  the  prairies,  or  up  the  course  of  some 
petty  stream,  laden  with  plants  of  all  kinds. 

The  Canadian  voyageurs,  who  are  a  clafis  of 
people  that  know  nothing  out  of  their  inmiediate 


1   • 


of 


MB.  BRADBURT8  ADVENTURE, 


203 


UdO)  and  with  constitutional  levity  make  a  jest 
of  anything  they  cannot  understand,  were  ex- 
tremely puzzled  by  this  passion  for  collecting 
what  they  considered  mere  useless  weeds.  When 
they  saw  the  worthy  botanist  coming  back  heavy 
laden  with  his  specimens,  and  treasuring  them 
up  as  carefully  as  a  :iiser  would  his  hoard, 
they  used  to  make  merry  among  themselves  at 
his  expense,  regarding  him  as  some  whimsical 
kind  of  madman. 

Mr.  Bradbury  was  less  exclusive  in  his  tastes 
and  habits,  and  combined  the  hunter  and  sports- 
man with  the  naturalist.  •  He  took  his  rifle  or 
his  fowling-piece  with  him  in  his  geological  re- 
searches, conform*.i>  to  the  hardy  and  rugged 
habits  of  the  men  around  him,  and  of  course 
gained  favor  in  their  eyes.  He  had  a  strong 
relish  for  incident  and  adventure,  was  curious  in 
observing  savage  manners,  and  savage  life,  and 
ready  to  join  any  hunting  or  other  excursion. 
Even  now,  that  the  expedition  was  proceeding 
through  a  dangerous  neighborhood,  he  could  not 
check  his  propensity  to  ramble.  Having  ,ob- 
served,  on  the  evening  of  the  2  2d  of  May,  that 
the  river  ahead  made  a  great  bend  which  would 
take  up  the  navi<,d.tiou  of  the  following  day,  he 
determined  to  profit  by  the  circumstance.  On 
the  morning  of  the  23d,  therefore,  instead  of 
embarking,  he  filled  his  shot-pouch  with  parched 
corn,  for  provisions,  and  set  off  to  cross  the  neck 
on  foot  and  meet  the  boats  in  the  afternoon  at 
the  opposite  side  of  the  bend.  Mr.  Hunt  felt 
uneasy  at  his  venturing  thus  alone,  and  reminded 


iH 


H 


,(U 


m 


204 


ASTORIA 


him  that  he  was  in  an  enemy's  country  ;  but  M.. 
Bradbury  made  light  of  the  danger,  and  startbj 
off  cheerily  upon  his  raml>le.  His  day  wi»a 
passed  pleasantly  in  traversing  a  beuutiful  trace, 
making  botanical  and  geological  researches,  and 
observing  the  habits  of  an  extensive  village  of 
prairie  dogs^  at  which  he  made  several  ineffectual 
shots,  without  considering  the  risk  he  run  of 
attracting  the  attention  of  any  savages  that  might 
be  lurking  in  the  neighborhood.  In  fact  he  had 
totally  forgotten  the  Sioux  Tetons,  and  all  the 
other  perils  of  the  country,  when,  about  the 
middle  of  the  afternoon,  as  he  stood  near  the 
river  bank,  and  was  looking  out  for  the  boat,  he 
suddenly  felt  a  hand  laid  on  his  shoulder.  Start- 
ing and  turning  round,  he  beheld  a  naked  savage 
with  a  bow  bent,  and  the  arrow  pointed  at  his 
breast.  In  an  instant  his  gun  was  leveled  and 
his  hand  upon  the  lock.  The  Indian  drew  his 
bow  still  further,  but  forbore  to  launch  the  shaft. 
Mr.  Bradbury,  with  admirable  presence  of  mind, 
reflected  that  the  savage,  if  hostile  in  his  intents, 
would  have  shot  him  without  giving  him  a  chance 
of  defense ;  he  paused,  therefore,  and  held  out 
his  hand.  The  other  took  it  in  sign  of  friend- 
ship, and  demanded  in  the  Osage  language 
whether  he  was  a  Big  Knife,  or  American.  He 
answered  in  the  affirmative,  and  inquired  whether 
the  other  were  a  Sioux.  To  his  great  relief  he 
found  that  he  was  a  Ponca.  By  tais  time  two 
other  Indians  came  running  up,  and  all  three 
lid  hold  of  Mr.  Bradbury  and  seemed  disposed 
to  compel  him  to  go  off  with  them  among  the 


UNWELCOME  MISSIVES. 


?05 


^age 
He 
ther 
he 
two 
iree 
Ised 
Ithe 


liills.  Ho  resisted,  and  sitting  down  on  a  sand 
hill  contrived  to  amuse  them  with  a  pocket  com- 
pass. When  the  novelty  of  this  was  exhausted 
they  again  seized  hiro,  but  he  now  produced  a 
small  microscope.  This  new  wonder  again  fixed 
the  attention  of  the  savagfis,  who  have  more  curi- 
osity than  it  has  been  the  custom  to  allow  them. 
While  thus  engaged,  one  of  them  suddenly  leaped 
up  and  gave  a  war-whoop.  The  hand  of  the 
hardy  naturalist  was  again  on  his  gun,  and  he 
was  prepared  to  make  battle,  when  the  Indian 
pointed  down  the  river  and  revealed  the  true 
cause  of  his  yell.  It  was  the  mast  of  one  of 
the  boats  appearing  above  the  low  willows  which 
bordered  the  stream.  Mr.  Bradbury  felt  infinitely 
relieved  by  the  sight.  The  Indians  on  their  part 
now  showed  signs  of  apprehension,  and  were 
disposed  to  run  away ;  but  he  assured  them  of 
good  treatment  and  something  to  drink  if  they 
would  accompany  him  on  board  of  the  boats. 
They  lingered  for  a  time,  but  disappeared  before 
the  boats  came  to  land. 

On  the  following  morning  they  appeared  at 
camp  accompanied  by  several  of  their  tribe. 
With  them  came  also  a  white  man,  who  an- 
nounced himself  as  a  m^cjsenger  bearing  missives 
for  Mr.  Hunt.  In  fact  he  brought  a  letter  from 
Mr.  Manuel  Lisa,  partner  and  agent  of  the  Mis- 
souri Fur  Company.  As  has  already  been  men- 
tioned, this  gentleman  was  going  in  search  of 
Mr.  Henry  and  his  party,  who  had  been  dis- 
lodged from  the  forks  of  the  Missouri  by  the 
Blackfest  Indians,  and  had  shifted  liis  post  some- 


t^l 


♦r 


I 


i  ,' 


206 


ASTORIA. 


where  beyond  the  Rocky  Mountains.  Mr.  Lisa 
had  left  St.  Louis  three  weeks  after  Mr.  Hunt, 
and  having  heard  of  the  hostile  intentions  of  the 
Siouz,  had  made  the  greatest  exertions  to  over- 
take him,  that  they  might  pass  through  the 
dangerous  part  of  the  river  together.  He  had 
twenty  stout  oarsmen  in  his  service  and  they 
plied  their  oars  so  vigorously,  that  he  had 
reached  the  Omaha  village  just  four  days  after 
the  departure  of  Mr.  Hunt.  From  this  place 
he  dispatched  the  messenger  in  question,  trusting 
to  his  overtaking  the  barges  as  they  toiled  up 
against  the  stream,  and  were  delayed  by  the 
windings  of  the  river.  The  purport  of  his  letter . 
was  to  entreat  Mr.  Hunt  to  wait  until  he  could 
come  up  with  him,  that  they  might  unite  their 
forces  and  be  a  protection  to  each  other  in  their 
perilous  course  through  the  country  of  the  Sioux. 
Jii  fact,  as  it  was  afterwards  ascertained,  Lisa  was 
apprehensive  that  Mr.  Hunt  would  do  him  some 
ill  office  with  the  Sioux  bands,  securing  his  own 
passage  thrpugh  their  country  by  pretending  that 
he,  with  whom  they  were  accustomed  to  trade,  was 
on  his  way  to  them  with  a  plentiful  supply  of 
goods.  He  feared,  too,  that  Crooks  and  M'Lellan 
would  take  this  opportunity  to  retort  upon  him  the 
perfidy  which  they  accused  him  of  having  used, 
two  years  previously,  among  these  very  Siorix. 
In  this  respect,  however,  he  did  them  signal  in- 
justice. There  was  no  such  thing  as  covert 
design  or  treachery  in  their  thought ;  but  M'Lel- 
lan, when  he  heard  that  Lisa  was  on  his  way 
ap  the  river,  renewed  his  open  threat  of  shoot* 


HUNTS  SUSPICIONS  OF  LISA. 


207 


sed, 
)t;x. 


.el- 
ray 

)0t> 


ing  him  the  moment  he  met  him  on  Indian 
land. 

The  representations  made  by  Crooks  and 
M'Lellan  of  the  treachery  they  had  experienced, 
or  fancied,  on  the  part  of  Lioa,  had  great  weight 
with  Mr.  Hunt,  especially  when  he  recollected  tho 
obstacles  that  had  been  thrown  in  his  own  way  by 
that  gentleman  at  St.  Louis.  He  dou^  ,  there- 
fore, the  fair  dealing  of  Lisa,  and  feared  that, 
should  they  enter  the  Sioux  country  together, 
the  latter  might  make  use  of  his  influence  with 
that  tribe,  as  he  had  in  the  case  of  Crooks  and 
M'Lellan,  and  instigate  them  to  oppose  his  prog- 
ress up  the  river. 

He  sent  back,  therefore,  an  answer  calculated 
to  beguile  Lisa,  assuring  him  that  he  would  wait 
for  him  at  the  Poncas  village,  which  was  but  a 
little  distance  in  advance  ;  but,  no  sooner  had  the 
messenger  departed,  then  he  pushed  forward  with 
all  diligence,  barely  stopping  at  the  village  to  pro- 
cure a  supply  of  dried  buffalo  meat,  and  hasten- 
ing to  leave  the  other  party  as  far  behind  as  pos- 
sible, thinking  there  was  less  to  be  apprehended 
&om  the  open  hostility  of  Indian  foes,  than  firom 
the  q'liet  strategy  of  an  Indian  trader. 


1 


m 


♦1 

4* 


CHAPTER  XVIIL 

]T  was  about  noon  when  the  party  left 
the  Poncas  village,  about  a  league  be- 
yond which  they  passed  the  mouth  of 
the  Quicourt,  or  Rapid  River  (called,  in  the  orig- 
inal French,  VEau  Qui  Court).  After  having 
proceeded  some  distance  further,  they  landed,  and 
encamped  for  the  night.  In  the  evening  camp, 
the  voyageurs  gossiped,  as  usual,  over  the  events 
of  the  day ;  and  especially  over  intelligence 
picked  up  among  the  Poncas.  These  Indians 
had  confirmed  the  previous  reports  of  the  hostile 
intentions  of  the  Sioux,  and  had  assured  them 
that  five  tribes,  or  bands,  of  that  fierce  nation 
were  actually  assembled  higher  up  the  river, 
and  waiting  to  cut  them  off.  This  evening  gos- 
sip, and  the  terrific  stories  of  Indian  warfare 
to  which  it  gave  rise,  produced  a  strong  effect 
upon  the  imaginations  of  the  irresolute ;  and  in 
the  morning  it  was  discovered  that  the  two  men, 
who  had  joined  the  party  at  the  Omaha  village, 
and  been  so  bounteously  fitted  out,  had  deserted 
in  the  course  of  the  night,  carrying  with  them 
all  their  equipments.  As  it  was  known  that 
one  of  them  could  not  swim,  it  was  hoped  that 
the  banks  of  the  Quicourt  River  would  bring 
them  to  a  halt.  A  general  pursuit  was  there- 
fore instituted,  but  without  success. 


! 


ire- 


THREE  ''DREADNOUGHT''  KENTUCKIANS.  209 

On  the  following  morntng  (May  2Gth),  as  thej 
were  all  on  shore,  breakfasting  on  one  of  the 
beautiful  banks  of  the  river,  they  observed  two 
canbes  descending  along  the  opposite  side.  By 
the  aid  or  spy-glasses,  they  ascertained  that 
there  were  two  white  men  in  one  of  the  canoes, 
and  one  in  the  other.  A  gun  was  discharged, 
which  called  the  attention  of  the  voyagers,  who 
crossed  over.  They  proved  to  be  three  Ken« 
tucky  hunters,  of  the  true  '^  dreadnought "  stamp. 
Their  names  were  Edward  Robinson,  John  Ho- 
bnck,  and  Jacob  Bizner.  Robinson  was  a  vetp 
eran  backwoodsman,  sixty-six  years  of  age.  He 
had  been  one  of  the  first  settlers  of  Kentucky, 
and  engaged  in  many  of  the  conflicts  of  the  In- 
dians on  "  the  Bloody  Ground."  In  one  of  these 
battles  he  had  been  scalped,  and  ho  still  wore  a 
handkerchief  bound  round  his  head  to  protect 
the  part.  These  men  had  passed  several  years 
in  the  upper  wilderness.  They  had  been  in  the 
service  of  the  Missouri  Company  under  Mr. 
Henry,  and  had  crossed  the  Rocky  Mountains 
with  him  in  the  preceding  year,  when  driven 
from  his  post  on  the  Missouri  by  the  hostilities 
of  the  Blackfeet.  After  crossing  the  mountains, 
Mr.  Henry  had  established  himseh  on  one  of 
the  head  branches  of  the  Columbia  River. 
There  they  had  remained  with  him  for  some 
months,  hunting  and  trapping,  until,  Laving  sat- 
isfied their  wandering  propensities,  they  felt  dis- 
posed to  return  to  the  families  and  comfortable 
homes  which  they  had  left  in  Kentucky.     They 

had  accordingly  made  their  way  back  across  the 
14 


210 


ASTORIA. 


i  i 


w* 


I 


I 


,¥-■■ 


1  ■ 


I 


moiintainR,  nnd  down  the  rivers,  and  were  in  full 
career  for  St.  Louis,  when  thus  suchlenly  inter- 
rupted. The  sight  of  a  powerful  party  of  tra- 
ders, trappers,  hunters,  and  voyageurs,  well  armed 
and  equipped,  furnished  at  all  points,  in  high 
health  and  spirits,  and  banqueting  lustily  on  the 
green  margin  of  the  river)  was  a  spectacle 
equally  stimulating  to  these  veteran  backwood- 
men  with  the  glorious  array  of  a  campaigning 
army  to  an  old  soldier ;  but  when  they  learned 
the  grand  scope  and  extent  of  the  enterprise  in 
hand,  it  was  irresistible ;  homes  and  families  and 
\  all  the  charms  of  green  Kentucky  vanished  from 
their  thrughts ;  they  cast  loose  their  canoes  to 
drift  down  the  stream,  and  joyfully  enlisted  in 
the  band  of  adventurers.  They  engaged  on 
similar  terms  with  some  of  the  other  hunters. 
The  company  was  to  fit  them  out,  and  keep  them 
supplied  with  the  requisite  equipments  and  mu- 
nitions, and  they  were  to  yield  one  half  of  the 
produce  of  their  hunting  and  trapping. 

The  addition  of  three  such  staunch  recruits 
was  extremely  acceptable  at  this  dangerous  part 
of  the  river.  The  knowledge  of  the  country 
which  they  had  acquired,  also,  in  their  journeys 
and  hunting  excursions  along  the  rivers  and 
among  the  Rocky  Mountains  was  all  important ; 
in  fact,  the  information  derived  from  them  in- 
duced Mr.  Hunt  to  alter  his  future  course.  He 
had  hitherto  intended  to  proceed  by  the  route 
taken  by  Lewis  and  Clarke  in  their  famous 
exploring  expedition,  ascending  the  Missouri  to 
its  forks,  and  thence  going,  by  land,  across  the 


•      A  NEW  ROUTE. 


2H 


monutnins.  These  men  informed  him,  however, 
that,  on  tukiiig  that  courHU  he  would  have  to  pass 
through  the  country  invested  by  the  savage 
tribe  of  tiie  Bhickfeet,  aiul  would  be  exposed  to 
their  hostilities ;  they  being,  as  has  already  been 
observed,  exasperated  to  deadly  animosity  against 
the  whites,  on  account  of  the  death  of  one  of  their 
tribe  by  the  hand  of  Captain  Lewis.  They  ad- 
vised him  rather  to  pursue  a  route  more  to  the 
southward,  being  the  same  by  which  they  had  re- 
turned. This  would  carry  them  over  the  moun- 
tains about  where  the  head-waters  of  the  Platte 
and  the  Yellowstone  take  their  rise,  at  a  place* 
much  more  easy  and  practicable  than  that  where 
Lewis  and  Clarke  had  crossed.  In  pursuing  this 
course,  also,  he  would  pass  through  a  country 
abounding  with  game,  where  he  would  have  a 
better  chance  of  procuring  a  constant  supply  of 
provisions  than  by  the  other  route,  and  would  run 
less  risk  of  molestation  from  the  Blackfeet. 
Should  he  adopt  this  advice,  it  would  be  better 
for  him  to  abandon  the  river  at  the  Arickara. 
town,  at  which  he  would  arrive  in  the  course  of  a 
few  days.  As  the  Indians  at  that  town  possessed 
horses  in  abundance,  he  might  purchase  a  suffi- 
cient number  of  them  for  his  great  journey 
overland,  which  would  commence  at  that  place. 

After  reflecting  on  this  advice,  and  consulting 
>nith  his  associates,  Mr.  Hunt  came  to  the  de- 
termination to  follow  the  route  thus  pointed  out, 
in  which  the  hunters  engaged  to  pilot  him. 

The  party  continued  their  voyage  with 
ielightful  May  weather.     The  prairies  bordering 


n 


212 


ASTORIA. 


on  the  river  were  gayly  painted  with  inuuinei able 
flowers,  exhibiting  the  motley  confusion  of  colors 
of  a  Turkey  carpet.  The  beautiful  islands,  also, 
on  which  they  occasionally  halted,  presented  the 
appearance  of  mingled  grove  and  garden.  The 
trees  were  often  covered  with  clambering  grape* 
vines  in  blossom,  which  perfumed  the  air. 
Between  the  stately  masses  of  the  groves  were 
grassy  lawns  and  glades,  studded  with  flowers,  or 
interspersed  wi'.h  rose-bushes  in  full  bloom. 
These  islands  were  often  the  resort  of  the 
buflklo,  the  elk,  and  the  antelope,  who  had  made 
innumerable  paths  among  the  trees  and  thickets, 
which  had  the  effect  of  the  mazy  walks  and 
alleys  of  parks  and  shrubberies.  Sometimes, 
where  the  river  passed  between  high  banks  and 
blufl^,  the  roads,  made  by  the  tramp  of  buffaloes 
for  many  ages  along  the  face  of  the  heights, 
looked  like  so  many  well-travelied  highways.  At 
other  places  the  banks  were  banded  with  great 
veins  of  iron  ore,  laid  bare  by  the  abrasion  of  the 
river.  At  one  place  the  course  of  the  river  was 
nearly  in  a  straight  line  for  about  fifteen  miles. 
The  banks  sloped  gently  to  its  margin,  without  a 
single  tree,  bul  rorcired  with  grass  and  herbage 
of  a  vivid  green.  Along  each  bank,  for  the 
whole  fifteen  miles,  extended  a  stripe,  one  hun- 
dred yards  in  breadth,  of  a  deep  rusty  brown, 
indicating  an  inexhaustible  bed  of  iron,  through 
the  centre  of  which  the  Missoari  had  worn  its 
way.  Indications  of  the  continuance  of  this  bed 
were  afterwards  observed  higher  up  the  river. 
It  is,  in  fact,  one  of  the  mineral  magazmes  which 


A  LAND   OF  DANGER. 


218 


or 


)age 

the 

mn- 

>wn, 

^ugh 

its 

bed 

Iver. 

lich 


nature  has  provided  in  the  heart  of  this  vast 
reahn  of  fertility,  and  which,  in  connection  with 
the  immense  beds  of  coal  on  the  same  river,  seem 
garnered  up  as  the  elements  of  the  future  wealth 
and  power  of  the  mighty  West. 

The  sight  of  these  mineral  treasures  greatly 
excited  the  curiosity  of  Mr.  Bradbury,  and  it 
was  tantalizing  to  him  to  be  checked  in  his 
scientific  researches,  and  obliged  to  forego  his 
usual  rambles  on  shore ;  but  they  were  now 
entering  the  fated  country  of  the  Sioux  Tetous, 
in  which  it  was  dangerous  to  wander  about 
unguarded. 

This  country  extends  for  some  days'  journey 
along  the  river,  and  consists  of  vast  prairies, 
here  and  there  diversified  by  swelling  hills,  and 
cut  up  by  ravines,  the  channels  of  turbid  streams 
in  the  rainy  seasons,  but  almost  destitute  of  wa« 
ter  during  the  heats  of  summer.  Here  and  there 
on  the  sides  of  the  hills,  or  along  the  alluvial 
borders  and  bottoms  of  the  ravines,  are  groves 
and  skirts  of  forest ;  but  for  the  most  part  the 
country  presented  to  the  eye  a  boundless  waste, 
covered  with  herbage,  but  without  trees. 

The  soil  of  this  immense  region  is  strongly 
impregnated  with  sulphur,  copperas,  alum,  and 
glauber  salts;  its  various  earths  impart  a  deep 
tinge  to  the  streams  which  drain  it,  and  these, 
with  the  crumbling  of  the  banks  along  the 
Missouri,  give  to  the  waters  of  that  river  much 
of  the  coloring  matter  with  which  they  are 
clouded. 

Over  this  vast  tract  the  roving  bauds  of  th« 


214 


AST  OBJ  A. 


i 


Sioux  Tetons  hold  their  vagrant  sway,  subsisting 
by  the  chase  of  the  buifalo,  the  elk,  the  deer,  and 
the  antelope,  and  waging  ruthless  warfare  with 
other  wandering  tribes. 

As  the  boats  made  their  way  up  the  stream 
bordered  by  this  land  of  danger,  many  of  the 
Canadian  voyageurs,  whose  fears  had  been 
awakened,  would  regard  with  a  distrustful  eye 
the  boundless  waste  extending  on  each  side.  Ail, 
however,  was  silent,  and  appparently  untenanted 
by  a  human  being.  Now  and  then  a  herd  of 
deer  would  be  seen  feeding  tranquilly  among  the 
flowery  herbage,  or  a  line  of  buffaloes,  like  a 
caravan  on  its  marc)i,  moving  across  the  distant 
profile  of  the  prairie.  The  Canadians,  however, 
began  to  apprehend  an  ambush  in  every  thicket, 
and  to  regard  the  broad,  tranquil  plain  as  a  sailor 
eyes  some  shallow  and  perfidious  sea,  which,  though 
smooth  and  safe  to  the  eve,  conceals  the  lurkins: 
rock  or  treacherous  shoal.  The  very  name  of 
a  Sioux  became  a  watchword  of  terror.  Not  an 
elk,  a  wolf,  or  any  other  animal,  could  appear  on 
the  hills,  but  the  boats  resounded  with  exclama- 
tions from  stem  to  stern,  *'  voila  les  Sioux  f 
**  voila  Us  Sioux  !  "  (there  are  the  Sioux  !  there 
the  Sioux !)  Whenever  it  was  practicable,  the 
night  encampment  was  on  some  island  in  the 
centre  of  the  stream. 

On  the  morning  of  the  31st  of  May,  as  the 
travellers  were  breakfasting  on  the  right  bank 
of  the  river,  the  usual  alarm  was  given,  but  with 
more  reason,  as  two  Indians  actually  made  their 
appearance  on  a  bluff  on  the  opposite  or  north* 


THREATENED  HOSTILITIES. 


215 


east  side,  and  harangued  them  in  a  loud  voice* 
As  it  was  impossible  at  that  distance  to  distinguish 
what  they  said,  Mr.  Hunt,  after  breakfast,  crossed 
the  river  with  Pierre  Dorion,  the  interpreter,  and 
advanced  boldly  to  converse  with  them,  while  the 
rest  remained  watching  in  mute  suspense  the 
movements  of  the  parties.  As  soon  as  Mr.  Hunt 
landed,  one  of  the  Indians  disappeared  behind  the 
hill,  but  shortly  reapppeared  on  horseback,  and 
went  scouring  off  across  the  heights.  Mr.  Hunt 
held  some  conference  with  the  ramaining  savage, 
and  then  recft>8sed  the  river  to  his  party. 

These  two  Indians  proved  to  .be  spies  or  scouts 
of  a  large  war  party  encamped  about  a  league  off, 
and  numbering  two  hundred  and  eighty  lodges, 
or  about  six  hundred  warriors,  of  three  different 
tribes  of  Sioux ;  the  Yangtons  Ahna,  the  Tetons 
Bois-brul^,  and  the  Tetons  Min-na-kine-azzo. 
They  expected  daily  to  be  reinforced  by  two 
other  tribes,  and  had  been  waiting  eleven  dajrs 
for  the  arrival  of  Mr.  Hunt's  party,  with  a  de- 
termination to  oppose  their  progress  up  the 
river ;  being  resolved  to  prevent  all  trade  of  the 
white  men  with  their  enemies  the  Arickaras, 
Mandans,  and  Minatarees.  The  Indian  who  had 
galloped  off  on  horseback  had  gone  to  give 
notice  of  the  approach  of  the  party,  so  that  they 
might  now  look  out  for  some  fierce  scenes  with 
those  piratical  savages,  of  whom  they  had  re- 
ceived so  many  formidable  accounts. 

The  party  braced  up  their  spirits  to  the  en- 
counter, and  reembarkiiig,  pulled  resolutely  up 
the  stream.     An  island  for  some  time  intervened 


216 


ASTORIA. 


between  them  and  the  opposite  side  of  the  river ; 
bat  on  clearing  the  upper  end,  they  came  in  full 
view  of  the  hostile  shore.  There  was  a  ridge  of 
hills  down  which  the  savages  were  pouring  in 
great  numbers^  some  on  horseback^  and  some  on 
foot.  Reoonnoitering  them  with  the  aid  of 
glasses^  they  perceived  that  they  were  all  in 
warlike  array,  painted  and  decorated  for  battle. 
Their  weapons  were  bows  and  arrows,  and  a  few 
short  carbines,  and  most  of  them  had  round 
shields.  Altogether  they  had  a  wild  and  gallant 
appearance,  and,  taking  possession  of  a  point 
which  commanded  the  river,  ranged  themselves 
ftlong  the  bank  as  if  prepared  to  dispute  their 
passage* 

At  sight  of  this  formidable  front  of  war,  Mr. 
Hunt  and  his  companions  held  counsel  together. 
It  was  plain  that  the  rumors  they  had  heard  were 
oorrect,  and  the  Sioux  were  determined  to  oppose 
their  progress  by  force  of  arms.  To  attempt  to 
elude  them  and  continue  along  the  river  was  out 
of  the  question.  The  strength  of  the  mid-cur- 
rent was  too  violent  to  be  withstood,  and  the 
boats  were  obliged  to  ascend  along  the  river 
banks.  These  banks  were  often  high  and  per- 
pendicular, affording  the  savages  frequent  stations, 
from  whence,  safe  themselves,  and  almost  unseen^ 
they  might  shower  down  their  missiles  upon  the 
boats  below,  and  retreat  at  will,  without  danger 
from  pursuit.  Nothing  apparently  remained, 
therefore,  but  to  fight  or  turn  back.  The  Sioux 
far  outnumbered  them,  it  is  true,  but  their  own 
|>arty  was  about  sixty  strong,  well  armed  and 


IX 

n 
d 


PREPARATIONS  FOR  DEFENSE. 


217 


supplied  with  nmmuiiitioA ;  and,  beside  their 
guns  and  rifles,  they  had  a  swivel  and  two  how- 
itzers mounted  in  the  boats.  Should  they  suc- 
ceed in  breaking  this  Indian  force  by  one  vigor- 
ous assault,  i£  was  likely  they  would  be  deterred 
from  making  any  future  attack  of  consequence. 
The  fighting  alternative  was,  therefore,  instantly 
adopted,  and  the  boats  pulled  to  shore  nearly 
opposite  to  the  hostile  force.  Here  the  arms 
were  all  examined  and  put  in  order.  The  swivel 
and  howitzers  were  then  loaded  with  powder  and 
discharged,  to  let  the  savages  know  by  the  report 
how  formidably  they  were  provided.  The  noise 
echoed  along  the  shores  of  the  river,  and  must 
have  startled  the  warriors,  who  were  only  accus- 
tomed to  sharp  reports  of  rifles.  The  same 
pieces  were  then  loaded  with  as  many  bullets  as 
they  would  probably  bear  ;  after  which  the  whole 
party  embarked,  and  pulled  across  the  river. 
The  Indians  remained  watching  them  in  silence, 
their  painted  forms  and  visages  glaring  in  the 
the  sun,  and  their  feathers  fluttering  in  the 
breeze.  The  poor  Canadians  eyed  them  with 
rueful  glances,  and  now  and  then  a  fearful 
ejaculation  escaped  them.  "  Parbleu  I  this  is  li 
sad  scrape  we  are  in,  brother ! "  one  would  mut- 
ter to  the  next  oarsman.  "  Aye,  aye  I  "  the  other 
would  reply,  "  we  are  not  going  to  a  wedding, 
my  friend  1 " 

When  the  boats  arrived  within  -rifle-shot,  the 
hunters  and  other  fighting  personages  on  board 
seized  their  weapons,  and  prepared  for  action. 
As  thej^  rose  to  fire,  a  confusion  took  place  among 


218 


ASTORIA. 


the  savages.  They  displayed  their  buffalo  i*obes, 
raised  them  with  both  hands  above  their  heads, 
and  then  spread  them  before  them  on  the  ground 
At  sight  of  this,  Pierre  Dorion  eagerly  cried  oul 
to  the  paHy  not  to  fire,  as  this  movement  was  a 
peaceful  signal,  and  an  invitation  to  a  parley. 
Immediately  about  a  dozen  of  the  principal  war- 
riors, separating  from  the  rest,  descended  to  the 
edge  of  the  river,  lighted  a  fire,  seated  themselves 
in  a  semicircle  round  it,  and,  displaying  the 
calumet,  invited  the  party  to  land.  Mr.  Hunt 
now  called  a  council  of  the  partners  on  board  of 
his  boat.  The  question  was,  whether  to  trust  to 
the  amicable  overtures  of  these  ferocious  people? 
It  was  determined  in  the  affirmative  ;  for,  other- 
wise, there  was  no  alternative  but  to  Sght  them. 
Tlie  main  body  of  the  party  were  ordered  to 
remain  on  board  of  the  boats,  keeping  within  shot 
and  prepared  to  :Bre  in  case  of  any  signs  of 
treachery ;  while  Mr.  Hunt  and  the  other  part- 
ners (M'Keuzie,  Crooks,  Miller,  and  M'Lellan) 
proceeded  to  land,  accompanied  by  the  interpreter 
and  Mr.  Bradbury.  The  chiefs,  who  awaited 
them  on  the  margin  of  the  river,  remained  seated 
in  their  semicircle,  without  stirring  a  limb  or 
moving  a  muscle,  motionless  as  so  many  statues. 
Mr.  Hunt  and  his  companions  advanced  without 
hesitation,  and  took  their  seats  on  the  sand  so  as 
to  complete  the  circle.  The  band  of  warriors 
who  lined  the  banks  above  stood  looking  down  in 
silent  groups  and  clusters,  some  ostentatiously 
equipped  and  decorated,  otliers  entirely  naked 
but  fantastically  painted,  and  all  variously  armed. 


THE  PIPE   OF  PEACE. 


219 


or 

Itues. 

Ihout 

10  as 

Iriors 

^n  in 

fusly 

iked 

led. 


The  pipe  of*  peace  was  now  brought  forward 
with  due  ceremony.     The  bowl  was  of  a  species 
of   red    stone    resembling    porphyry ;    the    stem 
was  six  feet  in  length,  decorated  with  tufts  of 
horse -hair  dyed  red.      The  pipe-bearer  stepped 
within  the  circle,  lighted  the  pipe,  held  it  towards 
the  sun,  then  towards  the  different  points  of  the 
compass,  after  which  he  handed  it  to  the  principal 
chief.     The    latter  smoked  a   few   whiffs,  then, 
holding  the  head  of  the  pipe  in  his  hand,  offered 
the  other  end  to  Mr.  Hunt,  and  to  each  one  suc- 
cessively in  the  circle.     When  all  had  smoked,  it 
was  considered  that  an  assurance  of  good  faith  and 
amity  had   been  interchanged.     Mr.  Hunt  now 
made  a  speech  in  French,  which  was  interpreted 
as  he  proceeded  by  Pierre  Dorion.     He  informed 
the  Sioux  of  the  real  object  of  the  expedition  of 
himself  and  his  companions,  which   was,  not  to 
trade  with  any  of  the  tribes  up  the  river,  but  to 
cross  the  mountains  to  the  great  salt  lake  in  the 
west,  in  search  of  some  of  their  brothers,  whom 
they  had  not  seen  for  eleven  months.     That  he 
had  heard    of    the    intention    of   the    Sioux    to 
oppose   his   passage,  and  was  prepared,  as  they 
might  see,  to  effect  it  at  all  hazards ;  neverthe- 
less, his  feelings  towards  the  Sioux  were  friendly, 
in  proof  of  which  he  had  brought  them  a  present 
of   tobacco    and    corn.     So  saying,    he   ordered 
about  fifteen  carottes  of   tobacco,  and   as  many 
bags  of  corn,  to  be  brought  from  the  boat  and 
aid  in  a  heap  near  the  council  fire. 

The  sight  of  tliese  p^^esents  mollified  the  chief- 
tain, who    had,  doubtless,  been    previously   reu- 


220 


ASTORIA. 


dered  considerate  by  the  resolute  conduct  of  tbo 
white  men,  the  judicious  disposition  of  their 
little  armament,  the  completeness  of  their  equip- 
ments, and  the  compact  array  of  battle  which 
they  presented.  He  made  a  speech  in  reply,  in 
which  he  «tated  the  object  of  their  hostile  assem- 
blage, which  had  been  merely  to  prevent  sup- 
plies  of  arms  and  ammunition  from  going  to  the 
Arickaras,  Mandans,  and  Minatarees,  with  whom 
they  were  at  war ;  but  being  now  convinced  that 
the  party  were  carrying  no  supplies  of  the  kind» 
but  merely  proceeding  in  quest  of  their  brothers 
beyond  the  mountains,  they  would  not  impede 
them  in  their  voyage.  He  concluded  by  thank- 
ing them  for  thefr  present,  and  advising  them  to 
encamp  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  as  he 
had  some  young  men  among  his  warriors  for 
whose  discretion  he  could  not  be  answerable,  and 
who  might  be  troublesome. 

Here  end^d  the  conference :  they  all  arose, 
fhook  hands,  ai.!  parted.  Mr.  Hunt  and  his 
companions  reembarked,  and  the  boats  proceeded 
on  their  course  unmolested. 


)se, 

his 

}de<l 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

N  the  afternoon  of  the  follo\ying  day 
(June  Ist)  they  arrived  at  the  great 
bend,  where  the  river  winds  for  about 
thirty  miles  round  a  circular  peninsula,  the  neck 
of  which  is  not  above  two  thousand  ye-rds  across. 
On  the  succeeding  morning,  at  an  early  hour,  they 
descried  two  Indians  standing  on  a  high  bank  of 
the  river,  waving  and  spreading  their  buffalo  robes 
in  signs  of  amity.  They  immediately  pulled  to  shore 
and  landed.  On  approaching  the  savages,  however, 
the  latter  showed  evident  symptoms  of  alarm, 
spreading  out  their  arms  horizontally,  according  to 
their  mode  of  supplicating  clemency.  The  reason 
was  soon  explained.  They  proved  to  be  two 
chiefs  of  the  very  war  party  that  had  brought 
Messrs.  Crooks  and  M'Lellan  to  a  stand  two  years 
before,  and  obliged  them  to  escape  down  the  river. 
They  ran  to  embrace  these  gentlemen,  as  if  de- 
lighted to  meet  with  them;  yet  they  evidently 
feared  some  retaliation  of  their  past  misconduct, 
nor  were  they  c^uite  at  ease  until  the  pipe  of 
peace  had  been  smoked. 

Mr.^Hunt  having  been  informed  that  the  tribe 
to  which  these  men  belonged  had  killed  three 
white  men  during  the  preceding  summer,  re- 
proached them  with  the  crime,  and  demanded  their 


222 


ASTORIA. 


h 


rejifiong  for  such  savage  hostility.  "  We  kill  white 
men,"  replied  one  of  the  chiefs,  "  because  white 
men  kill  us.  That  very  man,"  added  he,  pointing 
to  Carson,  one  of  the  new  recruits,  "  killed  one 
of  our  brothers  last  summer.  The  three  white 
men  were  slain  to  avenge  his  death." 

Their  chief  was  correct  in  his  roply.  Carson 
admitted  that,  being  with  a  party  of  Arickaras  on 
the  banks  of  the  Missouri,  and  seeing  a  war  party 
of  Siodx  on  the  opposite  side,  he  had  fired  with 
his  rifle  across.  It  was  a  random  shot,  made  with- 
out much  expectaf*  )n  of  effect,  for  the  river  was 
full  haJf  a  mile  in  breadth".  Unluckily  it  brought 
down  a  Sioux  warrior,  for  whose  wanton  destruc- 
tion threefold  vengeance  had  been  taken,  as 
has  been  stated.  In  this  way  outrages  are  fre- 
quently committed  on  the  natives  by  thought- 
less or  ff  chievous  white  men ;  the  Indians 
retaliate  according  to  a  law  of  their  code,  which 
requires  blood  for  blood ;  their  act,  of  what  with 
them  is  pious  vengeance,  resounds  throughout  the 
land,  and  is  represented  as  wanton  and  unprovoked ; 
the  neighborhood  is  roused  to  arms ;  a  war  ensues, 
which  ends  in  the  destruction  of  half  the  tribe, 
the  ruin  of  the  rest,  and  their  expulsion  from  their 
hereditary  homes.  Such  is  too  often  the  real 
history  of  Lidian  warfare,  which  in  general  is 
traced  up  only  to  some  vindictive  act  of  a  savage ; 
while  the  outrage  of  the  scoundrel  white  man  that 
provoked  it  is  sunk  in  silence. 

The  two  chiefs,  having  smoked  their  pipe  of 
peace  and  received  a  few  piesents,  departed  well 
satisfied.     In  a  little  while  two  others  appeared 


DANGERS  AND  PRECAUTIONS, 


223 


5d; 

[be, 

leir 

leal 

ia 

lat 


on  horseback,  and  rode  up  abreast  of  the  boats. 
They  had  seen  the  presents  given  to  their  comrades, 
but  were  dissatisfied  with  them,  and  came  after 
the  boats  to  ask  for  more.  Being  somewhat  per- 
emptory and  insolent  in  their  demands,  Mr.  Hunt 
gave  them  a  flat  refusal,  and  threatened,  if  they 
or  any  of  their  tribe  followed  him  with  similar  de- 
mands, to  treat  them  as  enemies.  They  turned 
and  rode  off  in  a  furious  passion.  As  he  was 
ignorant  what  force  these  chiefs  might  L.;7e  be- 
hind the  hllis,  and  as  it  was  very  possible  they 
might  take  advantage  of  some  pass  of  the  river 
to  attack  the  boats,  Mr.  Hunt  odled  all  stragglers 
on  board  and  prepared  for  such  emergency.  It 
was  agreed  that  the  large  boat  commanded  by  Mi*. 
Hunt  should  ascend  along  the  northeast  side  of  the 
river,  and  the  three  smaller  boats  along  the  soutli 
side.  By  this  arrangement  each  party  would 
command  a  view  of  the  opposite  heights  above 
the  heads  and  out  of  the  sight  of  their  companions, 
and  could  give  the  alarm  should  they  perceive  any 
Indians  lurking  there.  The  signal  of  alarm  was 
to  be  two  shots  fired  in  quick  succession. 

The  boats  proceeded  for  the  greater  part  of  the 
day  without  seeing  any  signs  of  an  enemy.  About 
four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  the  large  boat,  com- 
manded by  Mr.  Hunt,  came  to  where  the  river 
was  divided  by  a  long  sand-bar,  which  apparently, 
however,  left  a  sufficient  channel  between  it  and 
the  shore  along  which  they  were  advancing.  He 
kept  vp  this  channel,  therefore,  for  some  distance, 
until  the  water  proved  too  shallow  for  the  boat. 
It  was  necessary,  therefore,  to  put  about,  return 


224 


ASTORIA, 


down  the  channel,  and  pull  round  the  lower  end 
of  the  sand-bar  into  the  main  stream.  Just  as 
he  had  given  orders  to  this  effect  to  his  men,  two 
signal  guns  were  fired  from  the  boats  on  the  op- 
posite side  of  the  river.  At  the  same  moment,  a 
file  of  savage  warriors  was  observed  pouring  down 
from  the  impending  bank,  and  gathering  on  the 
shore  at  the  lower  end  of  the  bar.  They  were 
evidently  a  war  party,  being  armed  with  bows  and 
arrows,  battle  clubs  and  carbines,  and  round  buck- 
ler's of  buffalo  hide,  and  their  naked  bodies  were 
painted  with  black  and  white  stripes.  The  nat- 
ural inference  was,  that  they  belonged  to  the  two 
tribes  of  Sioux  which  had  been  expected  by  the 
great  war  party,  and  that  they  had  been  incited 
to  hostility  by  the  two  chiefs  who  had  been  en- 
raged by  the  refusal  and  the  menace  of  Mr.  Hunt. 
Here  then  was  a  fearful  predicament.  Mr.  Hunt 
and  his  crew  seemed  caught,  as  it  were,  in  a  trap. 
The  Indians,  to  the  number  of  about  a  hundred, 
had  already  taken  possession  of  a  point  near  which 
the  boat  would  have  to  pass :  others  kept  pouring 
down  the  bank,  and  it  was  probable  that  some 
would  remain  posted  on  the  top  of  the  height. 

The  hazardous  situation  of  Mr.  Hunt  was  per- 
ceived by  those  in  the  other  boats,  and  they  has- 
tened to  his  assistance.  They  were  at  some  dis- 
tance above  the  sand-bar,  however,  and  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  river,  and  saw,  with  intense 
anxiety,  the  number  of  savages  continually  aug- 
menting, at  the  lower  end  of  the  channel,  sp  that 
the  boat  would  be  exposed  to  a  fearful  attack 
before  they  could  render  it  any  assistance.     Their 


mOTAN  FRIENDS, 


225 


[18- 

Ihe 
Ise 

g- 


Anxiet}r  increaRed,  as  thej  saw  Mr.  Hunt  and  hii 
party  descending  the  channel  and  dauntlesslj  ap- 
proaching the  point  of  danger;  but  it  suddenly 
changed  into  surprise  on  beholding  the  boat  pass 
close  by  the  savage  horde  unmolested,  and  steer 
out  safely  into  the  broad  river. 

The  next  moment  the  whole  band  of  warriors 
was  in  motion.  They  ran  along  the  bank  until 
they  were  opposite  to  the  boats,  then  throwing 
by  their  weapons  and  buffalo  robes,  plunged  into 
the  river,  waded  and  swam  off  to  the  boats  and 
surrounded  them  in  crowds,  seeking  to  shake  hands 
with  every  individual  on  board;  for  the  Indians 
have  long  since  found  this  to  be  the  white  man's 
token  of  amity,  and  they  carry  it  to  an  extreme. 

All  uneasiness  was  now  at  an  end.  The  In- 
dians proved  to  be  a  war  party  of  Arickaras,  Man- 
dans,  and  Minatarees,  consisting  of  three  hundred 
warriors,  and  bound  on  a  foray  against  the  Sioux. 
Their  war  plans  were  abandoned  for  the  present, 
and  they  determined  to  return  to  the  Arickara 
town,  where  they  hoped  to  obtain  from  the  white 
men  arms  and  ammunition  that  would  enable  them 
to  take  the  field  with  advantage  over  their  enemies. 

The  boats  now  sought  the  first  convenient  place 
for  encamping.  The  tents  were  pitched ;  the  war- 
riors fixed  their  camp  at  about  a  hundred  yards 
distant ;  provisions  were  furnished  from  the  boats 
sufficient  for  all  parties ;  there  was  hearty  though 
rude  feasting  in  both  camps,  and  in  the  evening 
the  red  warriors  entertained  their  white  friends 
with  dances  and  songs,  that  lasted  until  after  mid- 
night. 

15 


226 


ASTORIA. 


On  the  following  morning  (July  3)  the  travel* 
lers  reembarked,  and  took  a  temporary  leave  of 
their  Indian  friends,  who  intended  to  proceed  im- 
mediately for  the  Arickara  town,  where  they 
expected  to  arrive  in  three  days,  long  before  the 
boats  could  reach  there.  Mr.  Hunt  had  not 
proceeded  far  before  the  chief  came  galloping 
along  the  shore  and  made  signs  for  a  parley. 
He  said,  his  people  could  not  go  home  satisfied 
unless  they  had  something  to  take  with  them  to 
prove  that  they  had  met  with  the  white  men. 
Mr.  Hunt  understood  the  drift  of  the  speech,  and 
made  the  chief  a  present  of  a  cask  of  powder, 
a  bag  of  balls,  and  three  dozen  of  knives,  with 
which  be  was  highly  pleased.  While  the  chief 
was  receiving  these  presents  an  Indian  came  run- 
ning along  the  shore,  and  announced  that  a  boat, 
filled  with  white  men,  was  coming  up  the  river. 
This  was  by  no  means  agreeable  tidings  to  Mr. 
Hunt,  who  correctly  concluded  it  to  be  the  boat 
of  Mr.  Manuel  Lisa ;  and  he  was  vexed  to  find 
that  alert  and  adventurous  trader  upon  his  heels, 
whom  he  hoped  to  have  out-maneuvered,  and  loft 
far  behmd.  Lisa,  however,  was  too  much  ex- 
perienced in  the  wiles  of  Indian  trade  to  be 
lulled  by  the  promise  of  waiting  for  him  at  the 
Poncas  village ;  on  the  contrary,  he  had  allowed  I 
himself  no  repose,  and  had  strained  every  nerve 
to  overtake  the  rival  party,  and  availing  himself 
of  the  moonlight,  had  even  sailed  during  a  con- 
siderable part  of  the  night.  In  this  he  was 
partly  prompted  by  his  apprehensions  of  the 
Sioux,  having  met  a  boat  which  had  probably 


\ 


APFR&ACB  OF  LJSA. 


ni 


jrvo 
self 
Bon- 
Iwaa 
the 
kbly. 


I 


pa&sed  Mr.  HunVs  party  in  the  night,  vad  which 
had  been  fired  into  by  these  savages. 

On  hearing  that  Lisa  was  so  near  ar  hand^ 
l^ir.  Hufirt  perceived  that  it  was  useless  to  jutempt 
any  longer  to  evade  him;  after  proceeding  a 
few  miles  further,  therefore,  he  came  to  a  halt 
and  waited  for  him  to  come  up.  In  a  little  while 
Ihe  barge  of  Lisa  made  its  appearance.  It  came 
sweeping  gently  up  the  river,  manned  by  its 
twenty  stout  oarsmen,  and  armed  by  a  swivel 
mounted  at  the  bow.  The  whole  number  on 
board  amounted  to  twenty-six  men:  among 
whem  was  Mr.  Henry  Breckenridge.  then  a 
young,  enterprising  man  ;  who  was  a  mere  pas- 
senger, tempted  by  notions  of  curiosity  to  accom- 
pany Mr.  Lisa.  He  has  since  made  himself  known 
by  various  writing,  among  which  may  be  noted  a 
narrati\e  of  this  very  voyage. 

The  approach  of  Lisa,  while  it  was  regarded 
with  uneasiness  by  Mr.  Hunt,  roused  the  ire  of  * 
M'Lollan ;  who,  calling  to  mind  old  grievances, 
began  to  look  round  for  his  rifle,  as  if  he  really 
intended  to  carry  his  threat  into  execution  and 
shoot  him  on  the  spot ;  and  it  was  with  some 
difficulty  that  Mr.  Hunt  was  enabled  to  restrain 
his  ire,  and  prevent  a  scene  of  outrage  and  con- 
fusion. 

The  meeting  between  the  two  leaders,  thus 
mutually  distrustful,  could  not  be  very  cordial : 
end  as  to  Messrs.  Crooks  and  M'Lellan,  though 
they  refrained  from  any  outbreak,  yet  they  re- 
garded m  grim  defiance  their  old  rival  and  under- 
f^lotter.      In   truth  a  general  distrust  prevailed 


228 


ASTORIA, 


I 


throughout  the  party  concerning  Lisa  and  his 
intentionfs.  They  considered  him  artful  and 
slippery,  and  secretly  anxious  for  the  failure 
of  their  expedition.  There  being  now  noth- 
ing more  to  be  apprehended  from  the  Sioux, 
they  suspected  that  Lisa  would  take  advantage 
of  his  twenty-oared  barge  to  leave  them  and  get 
first  among  the  Arickaras.  As  he  had  traded 
with  those  people  and  possessed  great  influence 
over  them,  it  was  feared  he  might  make  use  of 
it  to  impede  the  business  of  Mr.  Hunt  and  his 
party.  It  was  resolved,  therefore,  to  keep  a 
sharp  look-out  upon  his  movements  ;  and  M'Lel- 

1  Ian  swore  that  if  he  saw  the  least  sign  of  treach 
ery  on  his  part,  he  would  instantly  put  his  old 
threat  into  execution. 

Nothwithstanding  these  secret  jealousies  and 
heart-burnings,  the  two  parties  maintained  an 
outward  appearance  of  civility,  and  for  two  days 

•continued  forward  in  company  with  some  degree 
of  harmony.  On  the  third  day,  however,  an  ex- 
plosion took  place,  and  it  was  produced  by  no 
less  a  personage  than  Pierre  Dorion,  the  half- 
breed  interpreter.  It  will  be  recollected  that  tliis 
worthy  had  been  obKged  to  steal  a  march  from  St. 
Louis,  to  avoid  being  arrested  for  an  old  whiskey 
debt  which  he  owed  to  the  Missouri  Fur  Com- 
pany, and  by  which  Mr.  Lisa  had  hoped  to  pre- 
vent his  enlisting  in  Mr.  Hunt's  expedition. 
Dorion,  since  the  arrival  of  Lisa,  had  kept  aloof 
and  regarded  him  with  a  sullen  and  dogged  as- 
pect. On  the  fifth  of  July  the  two  parties  were 
brought  to  a  halt  by  a  heavy  rain,  and  remained 


THE  SAGE   OF  PIERRE  D ORION.       229 


le- 


re 


encamped  about  a  hundred  yards  apart  In  the 
course  of  the  day  Lisa  undertook  to  tamper  with 
the  faith  of  Pierre  Dorion,  and,  inviting  him  on 
board  of  his  boat,  regaled  him  with  his  favorite 
whiskey.  When  he  thought  him  sufficiently  mel- 
lowed, he  proposed  to  him  to  quit  the  service  of 
his  new  employers  and  return  to  his  old  allegi- 
ance.  Finding  him  not  to  be  moved  by  soft 
words,  he  called  to  mind  his  old  debt  to  the 
company,  and  threatened  to  carry  him  off  by 
force,  in  payment  of  it.  The  mention  of  this 
debt  always  stirred  up  the  gall  of  Pierre  Dorion, 
bringing  with  it  the  remembrance  of  the  whiskey 
extortion.  A  violent  quarrel  arose  between  him 
and  Lisa,  and  he  left  the  boat  in  high  dudgeon. 
His  first  step  was  to  repair  to  the  tent  of  Mr. 
Hunt  and  reveal  the  attempt  that  had  been  made 
to  shake  his  faith.  While  he  was  yet  talking 
Lisa  entered  the  tent,  under  the  pretext  of  com- 
ing to  borrow  a  towing  line.  High  words  in- 
stantly ensued  between  him  and  Dorion,  which 
ended  by  the  half-breed*8  dealing  him  a  blow. 
A  quarrel  in  the  "  Indian  country,"  however,  ia 
not  to  be  settled  with  fisticuffs.  Lisa  immedi- 
ately rushed  to  his  boat  for  a  weapon.  Dorion 
snatched  up  a  pair  of  pistols  belonging  to  Mr. 
Hunt,  and  placed  himself  in  battle  array.  The 
noise  had  roused  the  camp,  and  every  one  pressed 
to  know  the  cause.  Lisa  now  reappeared  upon 
the  field  with  a  knife  stuck  in  his  girdle.  Mr. 
Breckenridge,  who  had  tried  in  vain  to  mollify 
bis  ire,  accompanied  him  to  the  scene  of  action 
Pierre  Dorion's  pistols  gave  him  the  advantage, 


230 


ASTORIA. 


and  he  maintamed  a  most  warlike  attitude.  In 
the  meantime^  Crooks  aud  M'LeDao  had  learnt 
the  cause  of  the  aifray,  aad  were  each  eager  to 
take  the  quarrel  into  their  own  hands.  A  scene 
of  uproar  and  hubj}ub  ensued  that  defies  descrip* 
tion.  M'LeiJan  would  have  brought  his  ride 
into  play  and  settled  all  old  and  new  grudges 
by  a  pull  of  the  trigger,  had  he  not  been  re- 
strained by  Mr.  Hunt  That  gentleman  acted 
as  moderator,  endeavoring  to  prevent  a  general 
mel^e;  in  the  midst  of  the  brawl,  however,  an 
expression  was  made  use  of  by  Lisa  derogatory 
to  his  own  honor.  In  an  instant  the  tranquil 
spirit  of  Mr.  Hunt  was  in  a  flame.  He  now 
became  as  eager  for  Uie  fight  as  any  one  on  the 
ground,  and  challenged  Lisa  to  settle  the  dispute 
on  the  spot  with  pistols.  Lisa  repaired  to  his 
boat  to  arm  himself  for  the  deadly  feud.  He 
was  followed  by  Messrs.  Bradbury  and  Brecken- 
ridge,  who,  novices  in  Indian  life  and  the  '^  chiv* 
airy  "  of  the  frontier,  had  no  relish  for  scenes  of 
blood  and  brawl.  By  their  earnest  mediation 
the  quarrel  was  brought  to  a  close  without  blood- 
shed ;  but  the  two  leaders  of  the  rival  camps  sep- 
arated in  anger,  and  all  personal  i^teroourse  ceased 
between  them. 


CHAPTER  XX. 


HE  rival  parties  now  'u>asted  alohg  thd 
opposite  sides  of  the  river,  within  sight 
0£  each  other ;  the  barges  of  Mr.  Hunt 
always  keeping  some  distance  in  the  advance,  liest 
Lisa  should  push  on  and  get  first  to  the  Arickana 
village.  The  scenery  and  objects,  as  they  pto* 
ceeded,  gave  evidence  that  they  were  advancing 
deeper  and  deeper  into  the  domains  of  savage 
nature.  Boundless  wastes  kept  extending  to  thd 
eye,  more  and  more  animated  by  herds  of  buf- 
falo. Sometimes  these  unwieldy  animals  were 
seen  moving  in  long  procession  across  th6  silent 
landscape  ;  at  other  times  they  Were  scattefied 
\bout,  singly  or  in  groups,  oil  th6  bi'oad,  enam- 
eled prairies  and  green  acclivities,  dome  cropping 
the  rich  pasturage^  others  reclining  amidst  tlie 
flowery  herbage  ;  the  whole  scene  idealizing  in  a 
manner  the  old  Scriptural  descriptions  of  the 
vast  pastoral  countries  of  the  Orient,  with  "  <^ttle 
upon  a  thousand  hills." 

At  one  place  the  shores  sieemed  absolutely 
lined  with  buffaloes ;  many  were  making  their 
way  across  the  stream,  snorting,  and  blowings 
and  floundering*  Numbers,  in  spite  of  every 
effort,  were  borne  by  the  rapid  current  within 
ihot  of  the  boatS)  and  several  were  killed.     At 


2S9 


ASTQRIA 


another  place  a  number  were  desciied  on  the 
beach  of  a  small  island,  under  the  shade  of  the 
trees,  or  standing  in  the  water,  Uke  cattle>  to 
avoid  the  flies  and  the  heat  of  tlie  day. 

Several  of  the  best  marksmen  stationed  them- 
selves in  the  bow  of  a  b»r^c  which  advanced 
plowly  and  silently,  stemming  the  current  with 
the  aid  of  a  broad  sail  and  a  fair  breeze.  The 
buffaloes  stood  gazing  quietly  at  the  barge  as  it 
approached,  perfectly  unconscious  of  their  danger. 
The  fattest  of  the  herd  was  selected  by  the  hun- 
ters, who  all  fired  together  and  brought  down 
their  victim. 

Beside  the  buffaloes  they  saw  abundance  of 
deer,  and  frequent  gangs  of  stately  elks,  together 
with  light  troops  of  sprightly  antelopes,  the  fleet- 
est and  most  beautiful  inhabitants  of  the  prairies. 

There  are  two  kinds  of  antelopes  in  these  re- 
gions, one  nearly  the  size  of  the  common  deer, 
the  other  not  much  larger  than  a  goat.  Their 
color  is  a  light  gray,  or  rather  dun,  slightly  spot- 
ted with  white ;  and  they  liave  small  horns  like 
those  of  the  deer,  which  they  never  shed.  Noth- 
ing can  surpass  the  delicate  and  elegant  finish  of 
their  limbs,  in  which  lightness,  elasticity,  and 
strength  are  wonderfully  combined.  All  the  at- 
titudes and  movements  of  this  beautiful  animal 
are  graceful  and  picturesque ;  and  it  is  altogether 
as  fit  a  subject  for  the  fanciful  uses  of  the  poet 
as  the  oft-sung  gazelle  of  the  East. 

Their  habits  are  shy  and  capricious  ;  they  keep 
on  the  open  plains,  are  quick  to  take  the  alarm, 
and  bound  away  with  a  fieetness  that  defies  pur- 


INQUJSJTlVENESa   OF  ANTELOPES.     233 


ep 
Im, 
ir- 


Buit.  When  thus  skimming  across  a  prairie  in 
the  autunm,  their  light  gray  or  dun  color  blendf* 
with  the  hur  of  the  withered  herbage,  the  swift* 
ness  of  their  motion  baffles  the  eye,  and  they 
almost  seem  unsubstantial  forms,  driven  like  gos- 
samer before  the  wind. 

While  they  thus  keep  to  the  open  plain  and 
trust  to  their  speed,  they  are  safe ;  but  they  have 
a  prurient  curiosity  that  sometimes  betrays  them 
to  their  ruin.  When  they  have  scud  for  some 
distance  and  left  their  pursuer  behind,  they  will 
suddenly  stop  and  turn  to  gaze  at  the  object  of 
their  alarm.  If  the  pursuit  is  not  followed  up 
they  will,  after  a  lime,  yield  to  their  inquisitive 
hankering,  and  return  to  tiie  place  from  whence 
they  have  been  frightened. 

John  Day,  the  veteran  hunter  already  men- 
tioned, displayed  his  experience  and  skill  in  en- 
trapping one  of  these  beautiful  animals.  Taking 
advantage  of  its  well  known  curiosity,  he  laid 
down  flat  among  the  grass,  and  putting  his  hand- 
kerchief on  the  end  oT  his  ramrod,  waved  it 
gently  in  the  air.  This  had  the  effect  of  the 
fabled  fascination  of  the  rattlesnake.  The  ante- 
lope approached  timidly,  pausing  and  recoimoit- 
ring  with  increased  curiosity  ;  moving  round  the 
point  5f  attraction  in  a  circle,  but  still  drawing 
nearer  and  nearer,  until  being  within  the  range 
of  the  deadly  rifle,  he  fell  a  victim  to  his  curi- 
osity. 

On  the  10th  of  June,  as  the  party  were  mak- 
hig  brisk  progress  with  a  fine  breeze,  they  met  a 
canoe  with  three  Indians  desceudinn;  the  river. 


MSA 


ASTORIA. 


k 


III, 


They  came  to  a  parley,  and  brought  news  fioni 
the  Arickara  village.  The  war  party,  whicii  had 
caused  such  alarm  at  the  sand-bar,  had  readied 
the  village  some  days  previously,  announced  the 
approach  of  a  party  >f  t»*ader8,  and  displayed  with 
great  ostentivn  ;  prosents  they  had  received 
from  them.  O'S  f<«r  her  conversation  with  theso 
three  Indians,  ^  ilti*  learnt  the  real  danger 
which  he  had  run,  wiieu  hemmed  up  within  the 
sand-bar.  ^  The  Mandans  who  were  of  the  war 
party,  when  they  saw  the  boat  so  completely  eu" 
trapped  and  apparently  within  their  power,  had 
been  eager  for  attacking  it,  and  securing  so  rich  a 
prize.  The  Minatarees,  also,  were  nothing  loth, 
feeling  in  some  measure  committed  in  hostility  to 
the  whites,  in  consequence  of  their  tribe  having 
killed  two  white  men  above  the  fort  of  the  Mis- 
souri Fur  Company.  Fortunately,  the  Arickaras, 
who  formed  the  majority  of  the  war  party,  proved 
true  in  their  friendship  to  the  whites,  and  pre- 
vented any  hostile  act,  otherwise  a  bloody  affray, 
and  perhaps  a  horrible  massacre  might  have  en- 
sued. 

On  the  11th  of  June,  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  com- 
panions encamped  near  an  island  about  six  mileft 
below  the  Arickara  village.  Mr.  Lisa  encamped, 
as  usual,  at  no  great  distance  ;  but  the  same  sul* 
len  and  jealous  reserve,  and  non-intercourse  con- 
tinued between  them.  Shortly  after  pitching  the 
tents,  Mr.  Breckenridge  made  his  appearance  as 
an  ambassador  from  the  rival  camp.  He  came 
on  behalf  of  his  companions,  to  arrange  the  man* 
ner  of  making  their  entrance  into  the  village  and 


AN  ARICKARA  EMBASST, 


235 


of  receiving  the  chiefs ;  for  everything  of  the 
kind  is  a  matter  of  grave  ceremonial  among  th« 
Indians. 

Tlie  partners  now  expressed  frankly  their  deep 
distrust  of  the  intentions  of  Mr.  Lisa,  and  their 
apprehensions,  that,  out  of  the  jealousy  of  trade, 
and  resentment  of  recent  disputes,  he  might  seek 
to  instigate  the  Arickaras  against  them.  M 
Breckenridge  assured  them  that  their  suspicious 
were  entirely  groundless,  and  pledged  him;  i^ir 
that  nothing  of  the  kind  should  take  place,  t^^ 
found  it  difficult,  however,  to  remove  their  dis- 
trust; the  conference,  therefore,  ended  wi;  u 
producing  any  cordial  understanding ;  and  M'Lel- 
lan  recurred  to  his  old  threat  of  shooting  Lisa  the 
instant  he  discovered  atiything  like  ti-eacliery  in 
his  proceedings. 

That  night  the  rain  fell  in  torrents,  accom- 
panied by  thunder  and  lightning.  The  camp  was 
deluged,  and  the  bedding  and  baggage  drenched. 
All  hands  embarked  at  an  early  hour,  and  set 
forward  for  the  village.  About  nine  o'clock, 
when  half  way,  they  met  a  canoe,  on  board  of 
which  were  two  Arickara  dignitaries.  One,  a 
fine-looking  man,  much  above  the  common  size, 
was  hereditary  chief  of  the  village  ;  he  was  called 
the  Left-handod,  on  account  of  a  pei*sonal  pecul- 
iarity. The  other,  a  ferocious-looking  savage, 
was  the  war  chief,  or  generalissimo ;  he  was 
known  by  the  name  of  the  Big  Man,  an  appella- 
tion he  well  deserved  from  his  size,  for  he  was  of 
a  gigantic  frame.  Both  were  of  fairer  complex- 
ion than  is  usual  with  sava^res. 


:i> 


236 


ASTORIA, 


!■ 

They  were  accompanied  by  an  interpreter ;  a 
French  Creole,  one  of  those  haphazard  wights  oi 
Gallic  origin  who  abound  upon  our  frontier,  liv- 
ing among  the  Indians  like  one  of  their  own  race. 
He  had  been  twenty  years  among  the  Arickaras, 
had  a  squaw  and  troop  of  piebald  children,  and 
officiated  as  interpreter  to  the  chiefs.  Through 
this  worthy  organ  the  two  dignitaries  signified  to 
Mr.  Hunt  their  sovereign  intention  to  oppose  the 
further  progress  of  the  expedition  up  the  river 
unless  a  boat  were  left  to  trade  with  them.  Mr. 
Hunt  in  reply,  explained  the  object  of  his  voyage, 
and  his  intention  of  debarking  at  their  village  and 
proceeding  thence  by  land ;  and  that  he  would 
willingly  trade  with  tliem  for  a  supply  of  horses 
for  his  journey.  With  this  explanation  they  were 
perfectly  satisfied,  and  putting  about,  steered  for 
their  village  to  make  preparations  for  the  recep- 
tion of  the  strangers. 

The  village  of  the  Rikaras,  Arickaras,  or  Ric- 
arees,  for  the  name  is  thus  variously  written,  is 
between  the  46th  and  47th  parallels  of  north 
latitude,  and  fourteen  •  hundred  and  thirty  miles 
above  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri.  The  party 
reached  it  about  ten  o'clock  in  the  morning,  but 
landed  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  where 
they  spread  out  their  baggage  and  effects  to  dry. 
From  hence  they  commanded  an  excellent  view 
of  the  village-  It  was  divided  into  two  portions, 
about  eighty  yards  apart,  being  inhabited  by  two 
distinct  bauds.  The  whole  extended  about  three- 
quarters  of  a  mile  along  the  river  bank,  and  was 
composed  of  conical  lodges,  that  looked  like  su 


**  THE  LEtT-nANDED''   INVITATION.    237 


I 


^ 


many  small  hilloclts,  being  wooden  frarnes  inter- 
twined with  osier,  and  covered  with  earth.  The 
plain  beyond  the  village  swept  up  into  hills  of 
considernble  height,  but  the  whole  country  was 
nearly  destitute  of  trees.  While  they  were  re- 
garding the  village,  they  beheld  a  singular  fleet 
coming  down  the  river.  It  consisted  of  a  num- 
ber of  canoes,  each  made  of  a  single  buffalo  hide 
stretched  on  sticks,  so  as  to  form  a  kind  of  circu- 
lar trough.  Each  one  was  navigated  by  a  single 
squaw,  who  knelt  in  the  bottom  and  paddled  ; 
towing  after  her  frail  bark  a  bundle  of  floating 
wood  intended  for  firing.  This  kind  of  canoe  is 
in  frequent  use  among  the  Indians ;  the  buffalo 
hide  being  readily  made  up  into  a  bundJe  and 
transported  on  horse-back  ;  it  is  very  serviceable 
in  conveying  baggage  across  the  rivers. 

The  great  number  of  horses  grazing  around 
the  village,  and  scattered  over  the  neighboring 
hills  and,  valleys,  bespoke  the  equestrian  habit  of 
the  Arickaras,  who  are  admirable  horsemen.  In- 
deed, in  the  number  of  his  horses  consists  the 
wealth  of  an  Indian  of  the  prairies  ;  who  resem- 
bles an  Arab  in  his  passion  for  this  noble  animal, 
and  in  his  adroitness  in  the  management  of  it. 

After  a  time,  the  voice  of  the  sovereign  chief, 
"  the  Left-handed,"  was  heard  across  the  river, 
announcing  that  th^  council  lodge  was  preparing, 
and  inviting  the  white  men  io  come  over.  The 
river  was  half  a  mile  in  width,  yet  every  word 
uttered  by  the  chieftain  was  heard;  this  may  be 
partly  attributed  to  the  distinct  ma  >ner  in  which 
*<very  syllable  of  the  compound  words  in  the    In- 


288 


AaraRiA. 


M 

'i   !,        f 

M    i 


dian  languages  is  articuluted  and  acocnted  ;  but 
in  truth,  a  savage  warrior  might  often  rival 
Achilles  himself  for  force  of  liin;];.'^.^ 

Now  came  the  delicate  point  of  management  — 
how  the  two  rival  parties  were  to  conduct  their 
visit  to  the  village  with  proper  circumspection 
and  due  decorum.  Neither  of  the  leaders  had 
spoken  to  each  other  since  their  quarrel.  All 
communication  had  been  by  ambassadors.  See- 
ing the  jealousy  entertained  of  Lisa,  Mr.  Breck- 
enridge,  in  his  negotiation,  had  arranged  that  a 
deputation  from  each  party  should  cross  the  river 
at  the  same  time,  so  that  neither  would  have  the 
first  access  to  the  ear  of  the  Arickaras. 

The  distrust  of  Lisa,  however,  had  increased 
ia  proportion  as  they  approached  the  sphere  of 
action ;  and  M'Lellan,  in  particular,  kept  a  vigilant 
eye  upon  his  motions,  swearing  to  shoot  him  if  he 
attempted  to  cross  the  river  first. 

About  two  o'clock  the  large  boat  of  Mr.  Hunt 
was  manned,  and  he  stepped  on  board,  accompa- 
nied by  Messrs.  M'Kenzie  and  M'Lellan ;  Lisa 
at  the  same  time  embarked  in  his  barge ;  the 
two  deputations  amounted  in  all  to  fourteen  per- 
sons, and  never  was  any  movement  of  rival  po- 
tentates conducted  with  more  wary  exactness. 

They  landed  amidst  a  rabble  crowd,  and  were 
received  on  the  bank  by  the  left-handed  chief, 
who  conducted  them  into  the  village  with  grave 
courtesy ;  driving  to  the  right  and  left  the 
Awarms  of  old  squaws,  imp-like  boys,  and  vag- 
abond   dogs,   with    which    the    place    aboundedf 

1  Bradbury,  p.  110. 


ARICKARA  COUNCIL   LODGE. 


339 


They  wound  their  way  between  the  cabins,  which 
looked  liiie  dirt-heaps  huddled  together  without 
any  plan,  and  surrounded  by  old  palisades ;  alt 
filthy  in  the  extreme,  and  redolent  of  villainous 
smells. 

At  length  they  arrived  at  the  council  lodge. 
It  was  somewhat  spacious,  and  formed  of  four 
forked  trunks  of  trees  p'^ced  upright,  supporting 
cross-beams  and  a  frame  of  poles  interwoven 
with  osiers,  and  the  whole  covered  with  earth. 
A  hole  sunken  in  the  centre  formed  the  fireplace, 
and  immediately  above  was  a  circular  hole  in  the 
apex  of  the  lodge,  to  let  out  the  smoke  and  let  in 
the  daylight.  Around  the  lodge  were  recesses 
for  sleeping,  like  the  berths  on  board  ships, 
screened  from  view  by  curtains  of  dressed  skins. 
At  the  upper  end  of  the  lodge  was  a  kind  of 
hunting  and  warlike  trophy,  consisting  of  two 
bu0alo  heads  gairishly  painted,  surmounted  by 
shields,  bows,  quivers  of  arrows,  and  other  weap* 

On  entering  the  lodge  the  chief  pointed  to 
mats  or  cushions  which  had  been  placed  around 
for  the  strangers,  and  on  which  they  seated  them- 
selves, while  he  placed  himself  on  a  kind  of  stool. 
An  old  mm  then  came  forward  with  the  pipe 
of  peace  or  good-fellowship,  lighted  and  handed 
it  to  the  chief,  and  then  falling  back,  squatted 
himself  near  the  door.  The  pipe  was  passed 
from  mouth  to  mouth,  each  one  taking  a  whiff, 
which  is  equivalent  to  the  inviolable  pledge  of 
faith,  of  taking  salt  together  among  the  ancient 
BtatoQS.     The  chief   then   made  a   sign  to    th« 


240 


ASTORIA. 


old  pipe-bearer,  who  seemed  to  fill,  likewise,  the 
Btation  of  herald,  seneschal,  and  public  crier,  for 
he  ascended  to  the  top  of  the  lodge  to  make  proc- 
lamation. Here  he  took  his  post  beside  the 
aperture  for  the  emission  of  smoke  and  the  ad- 
mission of  light ;  the  chief  dictated  from  within 
what  he  was  to  proclaim,  and  he  bawled  it  forth 
with  a  force  of  lungs  that  resounded  over  ail  the 
village.  In  this  way  he  summoned  the  warriors 
and  great  men  to  council ;  every  now  and  then 
reporting  progress  to  his  chief  through  the  hole 
in  the  roof.j 

In  a  little  while  the  braves  and  sages  began  to 
enter  one  by  one,  as  their  names  were  called  or 
Announced,  emerging  from  under  the  buffalo  robe 
suspended  over  the  entrance  instead  of  a  door, 
stalking  across  the  lodge  to  the  skins  placed  on 
the  floor,  and  crouching  down  on  them  in  silence. 
In  this  way  twenty  entered  and  took  their  seats, 
forming  an  assemblage  worthy  of  the  pencil :  for 
the  Arickaras  are  a  noble  race  of  men,  large  and 
well  formed,  and  maintain  a  savage  grandeur 
and  gravity  of  demeanor  in  their  solemn  cere- 
monials. 

All  being  seated,  the  old  seneschal  prepared 
the  pipe  of  ceremony  or  council,  and  having  lit 
it,  handed  it  to  the  chief.  He  inhaled  the  sacred 
smoke,  gave  a  puff  upward  to  the  heaven,  then 
downward  to  the  earth,  then  towards  the  east ; 
after  this  it  was  as  usual  passed  from  mouth  to 
mouth,  each  holding  it  respectfully  until  his 
neighbor  had  taken  several  whiffs  ;  and  now  the 
grand  council  was  considered  as  opened  in  due 
form 


THE  SPEECH  OF  LISA, 


2il 


The  chief  made  an  harangue  welcoming  the 
white  men  to  his  village,  and  expressing  his  hap- 
piness in  taking  them  by  the  hand  as  friends ;  but 
Ht  the  same  time  complaining  of  the  poverty  of 
himself  and  his  people ;  the  usual  prelude  anEiong 
Indians  to  begging  or  hard  bargaining. 

Lisa  rose  to  reply,  and  the  eyes  of  Hunt  and 
his  companions  were  eagerly  turned  upon  him, 
those  of  M'Lellan  glaring  like  a  basilisk's.  He 
began  by  the  usual  expressions  of  friendship,  and 
then  proceeded  to  explain  the  object  of  his  own 
party.  Those  persons,  however,  Baid  he,  point- 
ing to  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  companions,  are  of  a 
different  party,  and  are  quite  distinct  in  their 
views ;  but,  added  he,  though  we  are  separate  par- 
ties, we  make  but  one  common  cause  when  the 
safety  of  either  is  concerned.  Any  injury  or 
insult  offered  to  them  I  shall  consider  as  done  to 
myself,  and  will  resent  it  accordingly.  I  trust, 
therefore,  that  you  will  treat  them  with  t^e  same 
friendship  that  you  have  always  manifested  for 
me,  doing  everything  in  your  power  to  serve 
them  and  to  help  them  tm  their  way.  The 
speech  of  Lisa,  delivered  with  an  air  of  frankness 
and  sincerity,  agieeably  surprised  and  4^P* 
pointed  the  rival  party. 

Mr.  Hunt  then  spoke,  declaring  the  object  of 

his  journey  to  the  great  Salt  Lake  beyond  the 

mountains,  and  that   he  should   want  horses   for 

the  purpose,   for  which   he  was  ready  to  trade, 

having  brought  with  him  plenty  of  goods.     Both 

he  and  Lisa  concluded  their  speeches  by  making; 

presents  of  tobacco. 
16 


2i2 


ASTORIA, 


II 

II 

ft 
II 
ii 


E' 


The  left-handed  chieftain  in  reply  promised  his 
friendship  and  aid  to  the  new  comers,  and  wel- 
comed them  to  his  village.  He  added  that  they 
had  not  the  number  of  horses  to  spare  that  Mr. 
Hunt  required,  and  expressed  a  doubt  whether 
they  should  be  able  to  part  with  any.  Upon 
this,  another  chieftain,  called  Gray  Eyes,  made  a 
speech,  and  declared  that  they  could  readily  sup- 
ply Mr.  Hunt  with  all  the  horses  he  might  want, 
since,  if  they  had  not  enough  in  the  village,  they 
could  easily  steal  more.  This  honest  expedient 
immediately  removed  the  main  difficulty;  but  the 
chief  deferred  all  trading  for  a  day  or  two;  until 
he  should  have  time  to  consult  with  his  subordi- 
nate chiei^  as  to  market  rates ;  for  the  principal 
chief  of  a  village,  in  conjunction  with  his  council, 
usually  fixes  the  prices  at  which  articles  shall  be 
bought  and  sold,  and  to  vhera  the  village  must 
conform. 

The  council  now  broke  up.  Mr.  Hunt  trans- 
ferred his  camp  across  the  river  at  a  little  dis- 
tance below  the  village,  and  the  left-handed  chief 
placed  some  of  his  warriors  as  a  guard  to  prevent 
the  intrusion  of  any  of  his  people.  The  camp 
was  pitched  on  the  river  bank  just  above  the 
boats.  The  tents,  and  the  men  wrapped  in  their 
blankets  and  bivouacking  on  skins  in  the  open 
air,  surrounded  the  baggage  at  night.  Four  sen- 
tinels also  kept  watch  within  sight  of  each  other 
outside  of  the  camp  until  midnight,  when  they 
were  relieved  by  four  others  who  mounted  guard 
until  daylight.  Mr.  Lisa  encamped  near  to  Mr 
Hunt,  between  him  and  the  village. 


i.L 


HARM  ON r  BETWEEN  THE  RIVALS.    243 

• 

The  speech  of  Mr.  Lisa  in  the  council  had 
produced  a  pacific  effect  in  the  encampment 
Though  the  sincerity  of  his  friendship  and  good- 
will towards  the  new  company  still  remained 
matter  of  doubt,  he  was  no  longer  suspected  of  an 
intention  to  play  false.  The  intercourse  between 
the  two  leadera  was  therefore  resumed,  and  the 
affairs  of  both  parties  went  on  harmoniously. 


h 


III 


«' 


CHAPTER  XXI. 

TRADE  now  commenced  with  the 
Arickaras  under  the  regulation  and  su- 
pervision of  their  two  chieftains.  Lisa 
sent  a  part  of  his  goods  to  the  lodge  of  the  lefl- 
handed  dignitary,  and  Mr.  Hunt  established  his 
mart  in  the  lodge  of  the  Big  Man.  The  viilag  .* 
soon  presented  the  appearance  of  a  busy  fair? 
and  as  horses  were  in  demand,  the  purlieos  r-nd 
the  adjacent  plain  were  like  the  vicinity  of  a 
Tartar  encampment ;  horses  were  put  thro  »<i*x 
all  their  paces,  and  horsemen  were  .  veering 
about  with  that  dextf  r^ty  and  grace  for  which 
the  Arickaras  are  noted  ..s  soon  as  a  horss) 
was  purchased,  hi?  tail  wft«  c?Tpped,  a  sure  mode 
of  distinguishing  him  from  the  horses  of  the 
tribe ;  for  the  Indians  disdain  to  practise  this 
absurd,  barbarous,  and  indecent  mutilation,  in- 
vented by  some  mean  and  vulgar  mind,  insensible 
to  the  merit  and  perfections  of  the  animal.  On 
the  contrary,  the  Indian  horses  are  suifered  to 
remain  in  every  respect  the  superb  and  beautiful 
animals  which  nature  formed  them. 

The  wealth  of  an  Indian  of  the  far  west  con- 
sists principally  in  his  horses,  of  which  each 
chief  and  wan.or  possesses  a  great  number,  so 
that  tie   plains  about  an  Indian    village  or  en- 


HORSE  TRAD  IK  0. 


845 


cainpment  are  covered  with  them,  These  form 
objects  of  traffic,  or  objects  of  depredation,  and 
in  this  way  pass  from  tribe  to  tribe  over  great 
tracts  of  country.  The  horses  owned  by  the 
Arickaras  are,  for  the  most  part,  of  the  wild 
stock  of  the  prairies ;  some  however,  had  been 
obtained  from  the  Poucas,  Pawnees,  and  otlier 
tribes  to  the  southwest,  who  had  stolen  them 
from  the  Spaniards  in  the  course  of  horse-8;i^aling 
expeditions  into  the  Mexican  territories.  These 
were  to  be  known  by  being  branded ;  a  Spanish 
mode  of  marking  horses  not  practiced  by  the  In- 
dians. 

As  the  Arickaras  were  meditating  another  ex- 
pedition against  their  enemies  the  Sioux,  the  ar- 
ticles of  traffic  most  in  demand  were  guns,  tom- 
ahawks, scalping-knives,  powder,  ball,  and  other 
munitions  of  war.  The  price  of  a  horse,  as 
regulated  by  the  chiefs,  was  commonly  ten  dol- 
lars worth  of  goods  at  first  cost.  To  supply  the 
demand  thus  suddenly  created,  parties  of  yon  5 
men  and  braves  had  sallied  forth  on  expedit  is 
to  steal  horses;  a  species  of  service  amoni.  .ae 
Indians  which  takes  precedence  of  hunting,  nd 
i3  considered  a  department  of  honorable  wat  lare. 

While  the  leaders  of  the  expedition  wt  ac- 
tively engaged  in  preparing  for  the  approaching 
journey,  those  who  had  accompanied  it  for  curi- 
osity or  amusement,  found  ample  matter  for  ob 
servation  in  the  village  and  its  inhabitants. 
Wherever  they  went  they  were  kindly  cDfer- 
tained.  If  they  eiitered  a  lodge,  the  buiialo 
robe  was  spread  before  the  fire  for  them  to  ail 


.1 


II  ' 


li 


I'M 


t& 

,        1. 

■t^  <!■■■'' 

'. 

1 

;;(:.  ." 

i^ 

il  i 


IM 


■?! 


246 


ASTORIA. 


down ;  the  pipe  was  brought,  and  while  the 
master  of  the  lodge  conversed  with  his  guests, 
the  squaw  put  the  earthen  vessel  over  the  fire, 
well  filled  with  dried-bufiklo  meat  and  pounded 
corn;  for  the  Indian  in  his  native  state,  before 
he  has  mingled  much  with  white  men,  and  ac- 
quired their  sordid  habits,  has  the  hospitality  of 
the  Arab :  never  does  a  stranger  enter  his  door 
without  having  food  placed  before  him;  and 
never  is  the  food  thus  furnished  made  a  matter 
of  traffic 

The  life  of  an  Indian  when  at  home  in  his 
village  is  a  life  of  indolence  and  amusem/ent. 
To  the  woman  is  consigned  the  labors  of  the 
household  and  the  field  ;  she  arranges  the  lodge ; 
br'ngs  wood  for  the  fire,  cooks;  jerks  venison 
and  buffalo  meat;  dresses  the  skins  of  the  an- 
imals killed  in  the  chase ;  cultivates  the  little 
patch  of  maize,  pumpkins,  and  pulse,  which  fur- 
nishes a  great  part  of  their  provisions.  Their 
time  for  repose  and  recreation  is  at  sunset, 
when  the  labors  of  the  day  being  ended,  they 
gather  together  to  amuse  themselves  with  petty 
games,  or  to  hold  gossiping  convocations  on  the 
tops  of  their  lodges. 

As  to  the  Indian,  he  is  a  game  animal,  not  to 
be  degraded  by  useful  or  menial  toil.  It  is 
enough  that  he  exposes  himself  to  the  hardships 
of  the  chase  and  the  perils  of  war ;  that  he  brings 
home  food  for  his  family,  and  watches  and  fights 
for  its  protection.  Everything  else  is  beneath 
his  attention.  When  at  home,  he  attends  only 
to  his    weapons    and    his   horses,  preparing   the 


4x— >. 


DOMESTIC  LIFE  OF  AN  INDIAN,       247 


means  of  future  exploit.  Or  he  engages  with 
his  comrades  iu  games  of  dexterity,  agility  aud 
strength ;  or  in  gamblii^g  games  in  which  every- 
thing is  put  at  hazard  with  a  recklessness  seldom 
witnessed  in  civilized  life. 

A  great  part  of  the  idle  leisure  of  the  In- 
dians when  at  home,  is  passed  in  groups,  squat- 
ted together  on  the  bank  of  a  river,  on  the  top 
of  a  mound  on  the  prairie,  or  on  the  roof  of  one 
of  their  earth-covered  lodges,  talking  over  the 
news  of  the  day,  the  affairs  of  the  tribe,  the 
events  and  exploits  of  their  last  hunting  or  fight- 
ing expedition;  or  listening  to  the  stories  of  old 
times  told  by  some  veteran  chronicler;  resem- 
bling a  group  of  our  village  quidnuncs  and  pol- 
iticians, listening  to  the  prosings  of  some  super- 
annuated oracle,  or  discussing  the  contents  of  an 
ancient  newspaper. 

As  to  the  Indian  women,  they  are  far  from 
complaining  of  their  lot.  On  the  contrary,  they 
would  despise  their  husbands  could  they  stoop  to 
any  menial  office,  and  would  think  it  conveyed 
an  imputation  upon  their  own  conduct.  It  is 
the  worst  insult  one  virago  can  cast  upon  an- 
other in  a  moment  of  altercation.  ^^  Infamous 
woman  !  "  will  she  cry,  "  I  have  seen  your  husband 
carrying  wood  into  his  lodge  to  make  the  fire. 
Where  was  his  squaw,  that  he  should  be  obliged 
to  make  a  woman  of  himself!" 

Mr.  Hunt  and  his  fellow  travellers  had  not 
been  many  days  at  the  Ariekara  village,  when 
^umors  began  to  circulate  that  the  Sioux  had  fol- 
lowed them  up,  and  that  a  war  party,  four  or 


\^ 


248 


ASTORIA. 


il, 


Bve  hundred  in  number^  were  lurking  some* 
where  in  the  neighborhood*  These  rumors  pro- 
duced much  embarrassment  in  the  camp.  The 
white  hunters  were  deterred  from  venturing 
forth  in  quest  of  game,  neither  did  the  leaders 
think  it  proper  to  expose  thbm  to  such  a  risk. 
The  Arickaras^  too^  who  had  suffered  greatly  in 
their  wars  with  this  cruel  and  ferocious  tribe, 
were  roused  to  increased  vigilance,  and  stationed 
mounted  scouts  upon  the  neighboring  hills. 
This^  however,  is  a  general  precaution  among 
the  tribes  of  the  prairies.  Those  immense 
plaibs  present  a  horizon  like  the  ocean,  so  that 
any  object  of  importance  can  be  descried  afar, 
and  information  communicated  to  a  great  dis- 
tancci  The  scouts  are  stationed  on  the  hills, 
therefore,  to  look  out  both  fo*  game  and  for  ene- 
mies, and  are,  in  a  manner,  living  telegraphs 
.  )nveying  their  intelligence  by  Concerted  signs. 
If  they  wish  to  give  notiee  of  a  herd  of  buffalo 
in  the  plain  beyond,  they  gallop  backwards  and 
forwards  abreast,  on  the  summit  of  the  hill.  If 
they  perceive  an  enemy  at  hand,  they  gallop  to 
and  fro,  crossing  each  other ;  at  sight  of  which 
the  whole  village  Hies  to  arms. 

Such  an  alarm  was  given  in  the  afternoon  of 
the  15th.  Four  scouts  were  seen  crossing  a  ad 
recrossiug  each  other  at  full  gallop,  on  the  sum- 
mit of  a  hill  about  two  miles  distant  down  the 
river  The  cry  was  up  that  the  Sioux  were 
coming.  In  an  instant  the  village  was  in  an  up- 
roai*.  Men,  women,  and  children  were  all  brawl- 
ing  and   shouting;  dugs   barking,    yelping,    and 


■'Ua, 


AN  ARUKARA  EXCITEMENT. 


249 


howling.  Some  of  the  warriors  ran  for  the 
horses  to  gather  and  drive  them  in  fiom  the  prairie, 
Bome  for  their  weapons.  As  fast  as  they  could 
arm  and  equip  they  sallied  forth ;  some  on  horse 
back,  some  on  foot.  Some  hastily  arrayed  in 
their  war  dress,  with  coronets  of  fluttering  feath- 
ers, and  their  bodies  smeared  with  paint ;  others 
naked  and  only  furnished  with  the  weapons  they 
had  snatched  up.  The  women  and  children 
gathered  on  the  tops  of  the  lodges  and  height- 
ened the  confusion  of  the  scene  by  their  vocif- 
eration. Old  men  who  could  no  lons^er  bear 
arms  took  similar  stations,  and  harangued  the 
warriors  as  they  passed,  exhorting  them  to  val- 
orous deeds.  Some  of  the  veterans  took  armn 
themselves,  and  sallied  forth  with  tottering  steps. 
In  this  way,  the  savage  chivalry  of  the  village 
to  the  number  of  five  hundred,  poured  forth,  hel- 
ter-skelter, riding  and  running,  with  hideous 
yells  and  war-whoopS;  like  so  many  bedlamites 
or  demoniacs  let  loose. 

After  a  while  the  tide  of  war  rolled  back,  but 
with  fiir  less  uproar.  Either  itiiad  been  a  false 
alarm,  or  the  enemy  had  relreated  on  finding 
themselves  discovered,  and  quiet  was  restored  to 
the  village.  The  white  hunters  continuing  to  be 
fearful  of  ranging  this  dangerous  neighborhood, 
fresh  provisions  began  to  be  scarce  in  the  camp. 
As  a  substitute,  therefore,  for  vension  and  buffalo 
meat,  the  travelers  had  to  purchase  a  number  of 
dogs  to  be  shot  and  cooked  for  the  supply  of  tli«e 
camp.  Fortunately,  however  charry  the  Indians 
jnight  be  of  their  horses,  they  were  liberal  of  their 


Ill 


:]1 


111 


Hi 


I; 


■4 


250 


ASTORIA. 


do^s.  In  fact,  these  animals  swarm  about  an 
Indian  village  as  they  do  about  a  Turkish  town. 
Not  a  family  but  has  two  or  three  dozen  belong- 
ing to  it,  of  all  sizes  and  colors;  some  of  a 
superior  breed  are  used  for  hunting;  others,  to 
draw  the  sledge,  while  others,  of  a  mongrel  breed, 
and  idle  vagabond  nature,  are  fattened  for  food. 
They  are  supposed  to  be  descended  from  the 
wolf,  and  retain  something  of  his  savage  but 
cowardly  temper,  howling  rather  than  barking  ; 
showing  their  teeth  and  snarling  on  the  slightest 
provocation,  but  sneaking  away  on  the  least 
attack. 

The  excitement  of  the  village  continued  from 
day  to  day.  On  the  day  following  the  alarm  just 
mentioned,  several  parties  arrived  from  different 
directions,  and  were  met  and  conducted  by  some 
of  the  braves  to  the  council  lodge,  where  they 
reported  the  events  and  success  of  their  expedi- 
tions, whether  of  war  or  hunting ;  which  news 
was  afterwards  promulgated  throughout  the  vil- 
lage, by  certain  old  men  who  acted  as  herjdds  or 
town  criers,  iftnong  the  parties  which  arrived 
was  one  that  had  been  among  the  Snake  nation 
stealing  horses,  and  returned  crowned  with  suc- 
cess. As  they  passed  in  triumph  through  the 
village  they  were  cheered  by  the  men,  womeix, 
and  children,  collected  as  usual  on  the  tops  of  the 
lodges,  and  were  exhorted  by  the  Nestors  of  the 
village  to  be  generous  in  their  dealings  with  the 
white  men. 

The  evening  was  spent  in  feasting  and  re- 
joicing among  the  relations  of  the  successful  wor- 


m. 


u. 


A   CHEYENNE  EMBASSY. 


251 


riors ;  but  the  sounds  of  grief  and  wftiling  were 
heard  from  the  hills  adjacent  to  the  village  —  the 
lamentations  of  women  who  had  lost  some  rela- 
lative  in  the  foray. 

An  Indian  village  is  subject  to  continual 
agitations  and  excitements.  The  next  day  arrived 
a  deputation  of  braves  from  the  Cheyenne  or 
Shienne  nation ;  a  broken  tribe,  cut  up,  like  the 
Arickaras,  by  wars  with  the  Sioux,  and  driven  to 
take  refuge  among  the  Black  Hills,  near  the 
sources  of  the  Cheyenne  River,  from  which  they 
derive  their  name.  One  of  these  deputies  was 
magnificently  arrayed  in  a  buffalo  robe,  on  which 
various  figures  were  fancifully  embroidered  with 
split  quills  dyed  red  and  yellow ;  and  the  whole 
was  fringed  with  the  slender  hoofs  of  young 
fawns,  that  rattled  as  he  walked. 

The  arrival  of  this  deputation  was  the  signal 
for  another  of  those  ceremonials  which  occupy  so 
much  of  Indian  life  ;  for  no  being  is  more  courtly 
and  punotillious,  and  more  observing  of  etiquette 
and  formality  than  an  American  savage. 

The  object  of  the  deputation  was  to  give  notice 
of  an  intended  visit  of  the  Shienne  (or  Cheyenne) 
tribe  to-  the  Arickara  village  in  the  course  of 
fifteen  days.  To  this  visit  Mr.  Hunt  looked 
forward  to  procure  additional  horses  for  his 
journey;  all  his  bargaining  being  ineffectual  in 
obtaining  a  sufficient  supply  from  the  Arickaras. 
Indeed,  nothing  could  prevail  upon  the  latter  to 
part  with  their  prime  horses,  which  had  been 
trained  to  buffalo  hunting. 

As  Mr.  Hunt  would  have  to  abandon  his  boats 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


I.I 


■&|2£    ||2S 

ISO  '"^"    iniaH 

■^  1^    1112.2 
:^    Ufi    12.0 

u 

lyui. 


1.25      1.4       1.6 

« 6"     

► 

Hiotographic 

Sdences 

Corporation 


^> 


^* 


V 


c\ 


\ 


\ 


6^ 


<> 


'9) 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


252 


ASTORIA. 


at  this  place,  Mr.  Lisa  now  offered  to  purchase 
them,  and  such  of  his  merchandise  as  was  super- 
flouu,  and  to  pay  him  in  horses  to  be  obtained  at 
a  fort  belonging  to  the  Missouri  Fur  Company, 
situated  at  the  Mandan  villages,  about  a  hundred 
and  fifty  miles  further  up  the  river.  A  bargain 
was  promptly  made,  and  Mr.  Lisa  and  Mr^ 
Crooks,  with  several  companions,  set  out  for  the 
fort  to  procure  the  horses.  They  returned,  after 
u^.wards  of  a  fortnight's  absence,  bringing  with 
them  the  stipulated  number  of  horses.  Still 
the  cavalry  was  not  sufficiently  numerous  to  con- 
vey the  party  and  baggage  and  merchandise,  and 
a  few  days  more  were  required  to  complete  the 
arrangements  for  the  journey. 

On  the  9th  of  July,  just  before  daybreak,  a 
great  noise  and  vociferation  was  heard  in  the 
village.  This  being  the  usual  Indian  hour  of 
attack  and  surprise,  and  the  Sioux  being  known 
to  be  in  the  neighborhood,  the  camp  was  instantly 
on  the  alert.  As  the  day  broke  Indians  were 
descried  in  considerable  number  on  the  bluffs, 
three  or  four  miles  down  the  river.  The  noise 
and  agitation  in  the  village  continued.  The  tops 
of  the  lodges  were  crowded  with  the  inhabitants, 
all  earnestly  looking  towaris  the  hills,  and  keep- 
ing up  a  vehement  chattering.  Presently  an 
Indian  warrior  galloped  past  the  camp  towards 
the  village,  and  in  a  little  while  the  legions  began 
to  pour  forth. 

The  truth  of  the  matter  was  now  ascertained. 
The  Indians  upon  the  distant  hills  were  three 
hundred  Arickara  braves,  returning  from  a  foray. 


m&>hmvM,*itmmAnA.i»M 


RETURN  OF  A   WAR  PARTY. 


253 


They  had  met  the  war  party  of  Sioux  who  had 
been  so  long  hovering  about  the  neighborhood, 
had  fought  them  the  day  before,  killed  several, 
and  defeated  the  rest  with  the  loss  of  but  two  or 
three  of  their  own  men  and  about  a  dozen 
wounded;  and  they  were  now  halting  at  a  dis- 
tance until  their  comrades  in  the  village  should 
come  forth  to  meet  them,  and  swell  the  parade  of 
their  triumphal  entry.  The  warrior  who  had 
galloped  past  the  camp  was  the  leader  of  the 
party  hastening  home  to  give  tidings  of  his  vie* 
tory. 

Preparations  were  now  made  for  this  great 
martial  ceremony.  All  the  finery  and  equip- 
ments of  the  warriors  were  sent  forth  to  them, 
that  they  might  appear  to  the  greatest  advantage. 
Those,  too,  who  had  remained  at  home,  tasked 
their  wardrobes  and  toilets  to  do  honor  to  the 
procession. 

The  Ariekaras  generally  go  naked,  but,  like 
all  savages,  they  have  their  gala  dress,  of  which 
they  are  not  a  little  vain.  This  usually  consists 
of  a  gray  surcoat  and  leggins  of  the  dressed  skin 
of  the  antelope,  resembling  chamois  leather,  and 
embroidered  with  porcupine  quills  brilliantly 
dyed.  A  buffalo  robe  is  thrown  over  the  right 
shoulder,  and  across  the  left  is  slung  a  quiver  of 
arrows.  They  wear  gay  coronets  of  plumes, 
particularly  those  of  the  swan ;  but  the  feathers 
of  the  black  eagle  are  considered  the  most  wor- 
thy, being  a  sacred  bird  among  the  Indian  war- 
riors. He  who  has  killed  an  enemy  in  his  own 
land,  is  entitled  to  drag  at  his  heels  a  fox-skin 


254 


ASTORIA. 


attached  to  each  moccasin  ;  and  he  who  has  slaia 
a  gri'^zly  bear,  wears  a  necklace  of  his  claws,  the 
most  glorious  trophy  that  a  hunter  can  exhibit. 

An  Indian  toilet  is  an  operation  of  some  toil 
and  trouble  ;  the  warrior  often  has  to  paint  him- 
self from  head  to  foot,  and  is  extremely  capri- 
cious and  difficult  to  please,  as  to  the  hideous  dis- 
tribution of  streaks  and  colors.  A  great  part  of 
the  morning,  therefore,  passed  away  before  there 
were  any  signs  of  the  distant  pageant.  In  the 
meantime  a  profound  stillness  reigned  over  the 
village.  Most  of  the  inhabitants  had  gone  forth  ; 
others  remained  in  mute  expfKtation.  All  sports 
and  occupations  were  suspended,  excepting  that 
in  the  lodges  the  painstaking  squaws  were  si- 
lently busied  in  preparing  the  repasts  for  the  wm*- 
riors. 

It  was  near  noon  that  a  mingled  sound  *\( 
voices  and  rude  music,  faintly  heard  from  a  d^- 
tance,  gave  notice  that  the  procession  was  on  the 
march.  The  old  men  and  such  of  the  squaws  ^ 
could  leave  their  employments  hastened  forth  to 
meet  it.  In  a  little  while  it  emerged  from  be- 
hind a  hill,  and  had  a  wild  and  picturesque  ap- 
pearance as  it  came  moving  over  the  summit  ia 
measured  step,  and  to  the  cadence  of  songs  aod 
savasre  instruments ;  the  warlike  standards  and 
trophies  flaunting  aloft,  and  the  fe<ithers,  and 
paint,  and  silver  ornaments  of  the  warriors  glar» 
ing  and  glittering  in  the  sunshine. 

The  pageant  had  really  something  chivalrous 
in  its  arrangement.  The  Arickaras  are  divided 
into  several  bands,  each  bearing  the  name  of  some 


TRIUMPHANT  PR0CE88I0N. 


2.'i& 


animal  oi  bird,  as  the  buffalo,  the  bear,  the  dog, 
the  pheasant.  The  present  party  consisted  of 
four  of  these  bands,  one  of  which  was  the  dog, 
the  most  esteemed  on  war,  being  composed  of 
young  men  under  thirty,  and  noted  for  prowesS. 
It  is  engaged  in  the  most  desperate  occasions. 
The  bands  marclied  in  separate  bodies  under  their 
several  leaders.  The  warriora  on  foot  came  first, 
in  platoons  of  ten  or  twelve  abreast ;  then  the 
horsemen.  Each  band  bore  as  an  ensign  a  spear 
or  bow  decorated  with  beads,  porcupine  quills, 
and  painted  featbers.  Each  bore  its  trophies  of 
scalps,  elevated  on  poles,  their  long  black  locks 
streaming  in  the  wind.  Each  was  accompanied 
by  its  rude  music  and  minstrelsy.  In  this  way 
the  procession  extended  nearly  a  quarter  of  a  mile. 
The  warriors  were  variously  armed,  some  few 
with  guns,  others  with  bows  and  arrows,  and  war 
clubs ;  all  had  shields  of  buifalo  hide,  a  kind  of 
defense  generally  used  by  the  Indians  of  the 
open  prairies,  who  have  not  the  covert  of  trees 
and  forests  to  protect  them.  They  were  painted 
in  the  most  savage  style.  Some  had  the  stamp 
of  a  red  'hand  across  their  mouths,  a  sign  that 
they  had  drunk  the  life-blood  of  a  foe  I 

As  they  drew  near  to  the  village  the  old  men 
and  the  women  began  to  meet  them,  and  now  a 
scene  ensued  that  proved  the  fallacy  of  the  old 
table  of  Indian  apathy  and  stoicism.  Parents 
nnd  children,  husbands  and  wives,  brothers  and 
sisters  met  with  the  most  rapturous  expressions 
of  joy  ;  while  wailings  j\nd  lamentations  were 
heard   from    the    relatives   of    the    killed    and 


I  I 


Mint 


ii 


^!i 


'\  I 


11 


■m 


256 


AbJOnU. 


wounded.  The  procession,  however,  continiiBdl 
on  with  slow  and  measured  step,  in  cadence  ta 
the  solemn  chant,  and  the  warriors  maintained 
their  fixed  and  stern  demeanor. 

'  Between  two  of  the  principal  chiefs  rode  a 
young  warrior  who  had  distinguished  himself  in 
the  battle.  He  was  severely  wounded,  so  as 
with  difficulty  to  keep  on  his  horse  ;  but  he  pre- 
served a  serene  and  steadfast  countenance,  as  il 
perfectly  unharmed.  His  mother  had  heard  of 
his  condition.  She  broke  through  the  throng, 
and  rushing  up,  threw  her  arms  around  hlin  and 
wept  aloud.  He  kept  up  the  spii::'it  and  demeanor 
of  a  warrior  to  the  last,  but  expired  shortly  af- 
ter he  had  reached  his  home. 

The  village  was  now  a  scene  of  the  utmost 
festivity  and  triumph.  The  banners,  and  tro- 
phies, and  scalps,  and  painted  shields  were  ele- 
vated on  poles  near  the  lodges.  There  were 
war-feasts,  and  scalp-dances,  with  warlike  songs 
aud  savage  music;  all  the  inhabitants  were  ar- 
rayed in  their  festal  dresses;  while  the  old  her- 
alds went  round  from  lod^e  to  lodge,  promulga* 
ting  with  loud  voices  the  events  of  the  bt^ttle 
aud  the  exploits  of  the  various  warriors. 

Such  was  the  boisterous  revelry  of  the  vil- 
lage ;  but  sounds  of  another  kind  were  heard  on 
the  surrounding  hills;  piteous  wailings  of  the 
women,  who  had  retired  thither  to  mourn  in 
darkness  and  solitude  for  those  who  had  fallen 
in  battle.  There  the  poor  mother  of  the  youth- 
ful warrior  who  had  returned  home  in  triumph 
but  to  die,  gave  full  vent  to    the  anguish  of  a 


liUi. 


LAMENTATIONS  AMONG   THE  HILLS.    257 


mother's  heart.  How  much  does  this  custom 
among  the  Indian  women  of  repairing  to  the  hill- 
tops in  the  night,  and  pouring  forth  their  wail- 
ings  for  the  dead,  call  to  mind  the  beautiful  and 
affecting  passage  of  Scripture,  **In  Rama  was 
there  a  voice  heard,  lamentation,  and  weeping, 
and  great  mourning,  Rachel  weeping  for  her 
children,  and  would  not  be  comforted,  becauae 
they  are  not.'' 


17 


CHAPTER  XXn. 


HILE  Mr.  Hunt  was  diligentlj  preparing 
for  his  arduous  journey,  some  of  his  men 
began  to  lose  heart  at  the  perilous  pros- 
pect before  them ;  but  before  we  accuse  them  of 
want  of  spirit,  it  is  proper  to  consider  the  nature 
of  the  wilderness  into  which  they  were  about  to 
adventure.  It  was  a  region  almost  as  vast  and 
trackless  as  the  ocean,  and,  at  the  time  of  which 
we  treat,  but  little  known,  excepting  through  the 
vague  accounts  of  Indian  hunters.  A  part  of 
their  route  would  lay  across  an  immense  tract, 
stretching  north  and  south  for  hundreds  of  miles 
along  the  foot  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  drained 
by  the  tributary  streams  of  the  Missouri  and  the 
Mississippi.  This  region,  which  resembles  one 
of  the  immeasurable  steppes  of  Asia,  has  not  in- 
aptly been  termed  "  the  great  American  desert" 
It  spreads  forth  into  undulating  and  treeless  plains, 
and  desolate  sandy  wastes  wearisome  to  the  eye 
from  their  extent  and  monotony,  and  which  are 
supposed  by  geologists  to  have  formed  the  ancient 
floor  of  the  ocean,  countless  age?,  since,  when  its 
primeval  waves  beat  against  the  granite  bases  of 
the  Rocky  Mountains. 

It  is  a  land  where  no  man  permanently  abides ; 
for,  in  certain  seasons  of  the  year  there  is  no  food 


■L« 


iiSKtmkmimmmmmmsmmammii 


WILDERNESS   OF  THE  FAR    WEST.      259 


either  for  die  hunter  or  his  steed.  The  herbage 
is  parched  and  withered ;  the  brooks  and  streams 
are  driec  up ;  the  buffalo,  the  elk  and  the  deer 
have  wandered  to  distant  parts,  keeping  within 
the  verge  of  expiring  verdure,  and  leaving  behind 
them  a  vast  uninhabited  solitude,  seamed  by 
ravines,  the  beds  of  former  torrents,  but  now  ser* 
ving  only  to  tantalize  and  increase  the  thirst  of 
the  traveller. 

Occasionally  the  monotony  of  this  vast  wilder- 
ness is  interrupted  by  mountainous  belts  of  sand 
and  limestone,  broken  into  confused  masses ;  with 
precipitous  difis  and  yawning  ravmes,  looking  like 
the  ruins  of  a  world ;  or  is  traversed  by  lofty  and 
barren  ridges  of  rock,  almost  impassable,  like  those 
denominated  the  Black  Hills.  Beyond  these  rise 
the  stern  barriers  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  the 
limits,  as  it  were,  of  the  Atlantic  world.  The 
rugged  defiles  and  deep  valleys  of  this  vast  chain 
form  sheltering  places  for  restless  and  ferocious 
bands  of  savages,  many  of  them  the  remnants  of 
tribes,  once  inhabitants  of  the  prairies,  but  broken 
up  by  war  and  violence,  and  who  carry  into  their 
mountain  haunts  the  fierce  passions  and  recklebS 
habits  of  desperadoes. 

Such  is  the  nature  of  this  immense  wilderness 
of  the  far  West ;  which  apparently  defies  cultiva- 
tion, and  the  habitation  of  civilized  life.  Some 
portions  of  it  along  the  rivers  may  partially  be 
subdued  by  agriculture,  others  may  form  vast  pas- 
'x)ral  tracts,  like  those  of  the  East ;  but  it  is  to  be 
feared  that  a  great  part  of  it  will  form  a  lawless 
•nterval  between  the  abodes  of  civilized  man,  like 


260 


ASTORIA, 


tho  wastes  of  the  ocean  or  the  deserts  of  Arabia ; 
utid,  like  them,  be  subject  to  the  depredations  of 
the  marauder.     Here   may   spring  up  new  and 
mongrel  races,  like  new  formations  in  geology,  the 
amalgamacion  of  the  ^^  debris"  and  **  abrasions"  of 
former  races,  civilized  and  savage ;  the  remains  of 
broken  and  almost  extinguished  tribes;  the  de- 
scendants of  wandering  hunters  and  trappers  ;  of 
fugitives  from  the  Spanish  and  American  frontiers ; 
of  adventurers  and  desperadoes  of  every  class  and 
country,  yearly  ejected  from  the  bosom  of  society 
into  the  wilderness.     We  are  contributing  vices- 
santly  to  swell  this  singular   and  heterogeneous 
cloud  of  wild  population  that  is  to  hang  about  our 
frontier,  by  the  transfer  of  whole  tribes  from  the 
east  of  the  Mississippi  to  the  great  wastes  of  the 
far  West.     Many  of  these  bear  with  them  the 
smart  of  real  or  fancied  injuries ;  many  consider 
themselves  expatriated  beings,  wrongfully  exiled 
from  their  hereditary  homes,  and  the  sepulchres 
of  their  fathers,  and  cherish  a  deep  and  abiding 
animosity  against  the  raco  that   has  dispossessed 
them.     Some    may   gradually   become    pastoral 
hordes,  like  those  rude  and  migratory  people,  half 
shepherd,  half  warrior,  who,  with  their  flocks  and 
herds,  roam  the  plains  of  upper  Asia ;  but  oth- 
ers, it  is  to  be  apprehended,  will  become  preda- 
tory bands,  mounted  on  the  fleet  steeds  of  the 
prairies,  with  the  open  plains  for  their  marauding 
grounds,  and  the  mountains  for  their  retreats  and 
\urking-places.     Here   they  may  resemble  those 
great   hordes   of  the  North,    "  Gog  and  Magog 
with  their  bands,"  that  haunted  the  gloomy  im* 


TUE  HORSE  AND   THE  INDIAN, 


261 


aginations  of  the  prophets.  **  A  great  company 
and  a  mighty  host,  all  riding  upon  horses,  and 
warring  upon  those  nations  which  were  at  rest, 
and  dwelt  peaceably,  and  had  gotten  cattle  and 
goods." 

The  Spaniards  changed  the  whole  character 
and  habits  of  the  Indians  when  they  brought  the 
horse  among  them.  In  Chili,  Tucuman,  and  other 
parts,  it  has  converted  them,  we  are  told,  into 
Tartar-like  tribes,  and  enabled  them  to  keep  the 
Spaniards  out  of  their  country,  and  even  to  make 
it  dangerous  for  them  to  venture  far  ilom  their 
towns  and  settlements.  Are  we  not  in  danger  of 
producing  some  such  state  of  things  in  the  bound- 
less regions  of  the  far  West.  That  these  are  not 
mere  femciful  and  extravagant  suggestions  we  have 
sufScient  proofs  in  the  dangers  already  experienced 
by  the  traders  to  the  Spanish  mart  of  Santa  F^, 
and  to  the  distant  posts  of  the  fur  companies. 
These  are  obliged  to  proceed  in  armed  caravans, 
and  are  subject  to  murderous  attacks  from  bands 
of  Pawnees,  Camanches,  and  Blackfeet,  that  come 
scouring  upon  them  in  their  weary  march  across 
the  plains,  or  lie  in  wait  for  them  among  the 
passes  of  the  mountains. 

We  are  wandering,  however,  into  excursive 
speculations,  when  our  intention  was  merely  to 
^ve  an  idea  of  the  nature  of  the  wilderness 
which  Mr.  Hunt  was  about  to  traverse;  and 
which  at  that  time  was  far  less  known  than  at 
present ;  though  it  still  remains  in  a  great  mea- 
sure an  imknown  land.  We  cannot  be  surprised, 
therefore,  that  some  of  the  least  resolute  of  his 


262 


ASTORIA 


WW  ! 


,  !;'M 


'fll 


party  should  fee]  dismay  at  tlie  thoughts  of  ad« 
venturing  mto  this  perilous  wilderness  under  the 
uncertain  guidance  of  three  hunters,  who  had 
merely  passed  once  through  the  country  and  might 
have  forgotten  tlie  landmarks.  Their  appre- 
hensions were  aggravated  by  some  of  Lisa's  fol- 
lowers, who,  not  being  engaged  in  the  expedition, 
took  a  mischievous  pleasure  in  exaggerating  its 
dangers.  They  painted  in  strong  colors,  to  the 
poor  Canadian  voyageurs,  the  risk  they  would 
run  of  perishing  with  hunger  and  thirst ;  of  be- 
ing cut  off  by  war-parties  of  the  Sioux  who 
scoured  the  plains ;  of  having  their  horses  stolen 
by  the  Upsarokas  or  Crows,  who  infested  the 
skirts  of  the  Rocky  Mountains;  or  of  being 
butchered  by  the  Blackfeet,  who  lurked  among 
the  defiles.  In  a  word,  there  was  little  chance 
of  their  getting  alive  aocross  the  mountains; 
and  even  if  they  did,  those  three  guides  knew 
nothing  of  the  howling  wilderness  that  lay  be- 
yond. 

The  apprehensions  thus  awakened  in  the  minds 
of  some  of  the  men  came  well  nigh  proving 
detrimental  to  the  expedition.  Some  of  them 
determined  to  desert,  and  to  make  their  way 
back  to  St.  Louis.  They  accordmgly  purloined 
several  weapons  and  a  barrel  of  gunpowder,  as 
ammunition  for  their  enterprise,  and  buried  them 
in  the  river  bank,  intending  to  seize  one  of  the 
boats,  and  make  off  in  the  night.  Fortunately 
their  plot  was  overheard  by  John  Day,  the  Ken- 
tuckian,  and  communicated  to  the  partners,  who 
look  qi  let  and  effectual  means  to  frustrate  it. 


DEPARTURE  FROM   THE  A  HICK  ARAB.     268 


The  dangers  to  be  apprehended  from  the  CroTf 
Indians  had  not  been  overrated  by  the  camp  gos* 
sips.  These  savages,  through  whose  mountain 
haunts  the  prrty  would  have  to  pass,  were  noted 
for  daring  and  excursive  habits,  and  great  dex* 
teritj  in  horse  stealing.  Mr.  Hunt,  therefore, 
considered  himself  fortunate  in  having  met  with 
a  man  who  might  be  of  great  use  to  him  in  any 
intercourse  he  might  have  with  the  tribe.  This 
was  a  wandering  individual  named  £dward  Rose, 
whom  he  had  picked  up  somewhere  on  the  Mis- 
souri —  one  of  those  anomalous  beings  found  on 
the  frontier,  who  seem  to  have  neither  kin  nor 
country.  •  He  had  lived  some  time  among  the 
Crows,  so  as  to  become  acquainted  with  their 
language  and  customs ;  and  was,  withal,  a  dogged, 
sullen,  silent  fellow,  with  a  sinister  aspect,  and 
more  of  the  savage  than  the  civilized  man  in 
his  appearance.  He  was  engaged  to  serve  in 
general  as  a  hunter,  but  as  guide  and  inter- 
preter when  they  should  reach  the  country  of  the 
Crows. 

On  the  18th  of  July,  Mr.  Hunt  took  up  his 
line  of  march  by  land  from  the  Arickara  vil- 
lage, leaving  Mr.  Lisa  and  Mr.  Nuttall  there, 
where  they  intended  to  await  the  expected  ar- 
rival of  Mr.  Henry  from  the  Rocky  Mountains. 
As  to  Messrs.  Bradbury  and  Breckenridge  they 
had  departed  some  days  previously,  on  a  voyage 
down  the  river  to  St.  Louis,  with  a  detachment 
from  Mr.  Lisa's  party.  With  all  his  exertions, 
Mr.  Hunt  had  been  unable  to  obtain  a  sufficient 
number  of  horses  for  the  accommodation  of  aU 


lis 


n 


■pi' 


>  < 

II 


264 


ASTORIA. 


his  people.  His  cavalcade  consisted  of  eighty- 
two  horses,  most  of  them  heavily  laden  with 
Indian  goods,  beaver  traps,  ammunition,  Indian 
corn,  com  meal  and  other  necessaries.  Each  of 
the  partners  was  mounted,  and  a  horse  was  al- 
lotted to  the  interpreter,  Pierre  Dorion,  for  the 
transportation  of  his  luggage  and  his  two  chil- 
dren.  His  squaw,  for  the  most  part  of  the  tame, 
trudged  on  foot,  like  the  residue  of  the  party ; 
nor  did  any  of  the  men  show  more  patienct^  and 
fortitude  than  this  resolute  woman  in  enduring 
£itigue  and  hardship. 

The  veteran  trappers  and  voyageurs  of  I«isa*8 
party  shook  their  heads  as  their  comrades  set  out, 
and  took  leave  of  them  as  of  doomed  men ;  and 
even  Lisa  himself  gave  it  as  his  opinion,  after 
the  travellers  had  departed,  they  would  never 
reach  the  shores  of  the  Pacific,  but  would  either 
perish  with  hunger  in  the  wilderness,  or  be  cut 
off  by  the  savages. 


rt 


^1 


i;  i;^' 


ii^' 


^ 


iTitimii 


CHAPTER  XXm. 


[HE  course  taken  by  Mr.  Hunt  was  at 
first  to  the  northwest,  but  soon  turned 
and  kept  generally  to  the  southwest,  to 
avoid  the  country  infested  by  the  Blackfeet 
His  route  took  him  ac;ross  some  of  the  tributary 
streams  of  the  Missouri,  and  over  immense  prai- 
ries, bounded  only  by  the  horizon,  and  destitute 
of  trees.  It  was  now  the  height  of  summer, 
and  Uiese  naked  plains  would  be  intolerable  to 
the  traveller  were  it  not  for  the  breezes  which 
sweep  over  them  during  the  fervor  of  the  day, 
bringing  with  them  tempering  airs  from  the  dis- 
''ant  mountains.  To  the  prevalence  of  these 
breezes,  and  to  the  want  of  all  leafy  covert,  may 
we  also  attribute  the  freedom  from  those  flies 
aiid  other  insects  so  tormenting  to  man  and  beast 
during  the  summer  months,  in  the  lower  plains^ 
which  are  bordered  and  interspersed  with  wood- 
land. 

The  monotony  of  these  immense  landscapes, 
also,  would  be  as  wearisome  as  that  of  the  ocean, 
wero  it  not  relieved  in  some  degree  by  the  purity 
and  elasticity  of  the  atmosphere,  and  the  beauty 
of  the  heavens.  The  sky  has  that  delicious  blue 
for  which  tlie  sky  of  Italy  is  renowned  ;  the  sun 
shines  with  a  splendor  unobscured  by  any  doud 


'till 'I 

ll 

J 

III 

nil 
'11 


\ 


¥       '4 

1 


\l 


'I! 


266 


AST  OR  J  A. 


or  vapor,  and  a  starlight  night  on  the  prairies  is 
glorious.  This  purity  and  elasticity  of  atmos- 
phere increases  as  the  traveller  approaches  the 
mountains  and  gradually  rises  into  more  elevated 
prairies. 

On  the  second  day  of  the  joumeyf  Mr.  Hunt 
arranged  the  party  into  small  and  couveniept 
messes,  distributing  among  their  the  camp  kettles. 
The  encampments  at  night  were  as  before  ;  some 
sleeping  undex"  tents,  and  others  bivouacking  in 
the  open  air.  The  Canadians  proved  ps  patient 
of  toil  and  hardship  on  the  land  as  on  the  water ; 
indeed,  nothing  could  surpass  the  patience  and 
good-humor  of  these  men  upon  the  march.  They 
were  the  cheerful  drudges  of  the  party,  loading 
and  unloading  the  horses,  pitching  the  tents,  mak- 
ing the  fires,  cooking;  in  short,  performing  all 
those  household  and  menial  offices  which  the  In- 
dians usually  assign  to  the  squaws  ;  and,  like  the 
squaws,  they  left  all  the  hunting  and  fighting  io 
others.  A  Canadian  has  but  little  afiection  hr 
the  exercise  of  the  rifle. 

The  pmgress  of  the  party  was  but  slow  for  tl'ie 
first  few  days.  Some  of  the  men  were  indisposed ; 
Mr.  Crooks,  especially,  was  so  unwell  that  he  could 
not  keep  on  his  horse.  A  rude  kind  of  litter  was,^ 
therafore,  prepared  for  him,  consisting  of  two  'ong 
poles,  fixed,  one  on  each  side  of  two  horses,  with 
a  matting  between  them,  on  which  he  reclined  at 
tuU  length,  and  was  protected  from  the  sun  by  a 
canopy  of  boughs. 

On  the  evening  of  the  23d  (Ji*iy)  they  en- 
camped  on  the   banks  of  what   they   term  Big 


Wimiri'iriillilMniMI 


NAMES  OF  WESTERN  LANDMARKS.     237 


Itiver ;  and  here  we  cannot  but  pause  to  lament 
(iie  stupid,  commonplace,  and  often  ribald  names 
entailed  upon  the  rivers  and  other  features  of  the 
great  West,  by  traders  and  settlers.  As  the  ab- 
original tribes  of  these  magnificent  regions  are  yet 
in  existence,  the  Indian  names  might  easily  be  re- 
covered ;  which,  beside  being  in  general  more  so 
norous  and  musical,  would  remain  mementoes  of 
the  primitive  lords  of  the  soil,  of  whom  in  a  little 
while  scarce  any  traces  will  be  left.  Indeed,  it  is 
to  be  wished  that  the  whole  of  our  country  could 
be  rescued,  as  much  as  possible,  from  the  wretched 
nomenclature  inflicted  upon  it,  by  ignorant  and 
vulgar  minds ;  and  this  might  be  done,  in  a  great 
degree,  by  restoring  the  Indian  names?;  wherever 
significant  and  euphonious.  As  there  appears  to 
be  a  spirit  of  research  abroad  in  respect  to  our 
aboriginal  antiquities,  we  would  suggest,  as  a 
worthy  object  of  enterprise,  a  map,  or  maps,  of 
every  part  of  our  country,  giving  the  Indian 
names  wherever  they  could  be  ascertained.  Who- 
ever achieves  such  an  object  worthily,  will  leave 
a  monument  to  his  own  reputation. 

To  return  from  this  digression.  As  the  travel- 
lers were  now  in  a  country  abounding  with  buf- 
falo, they  remained  for  several  days  encamped 
upon  the  banks  of  Big  River,  to  obtain  a  supply 
of  provisions,  and  to  give  the  invalids  time  to  re- 
cruit. 

On  the  second  day  of  their  sojourn,  as  Ben 
Jones,  John  Day,  and  others  of  the  hunters  were 
in  pursuit  of  game,  they  camC  upon  an  Indian 
eamp  on  the  open  prairie,  near  to  a  small  stream 


268 


AST  OAT  A. 


I        I 


which  ran  through  a  ravine.  The  tents  or  lodges 
were  of  dressed  buffalo  skins,  sewn  together  and 
stretched  on  tapering  pine  poles,  joined  at  top, 
but  radiating  at  bottom,  so  as  to  form  a  circle  capa- 
ble of  admitting  fifty  persons.  Numbers  of  horses 
were  grazing  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  camp,  or 
straying  at  large  in  the  prairie ;  a  sight  most  ac- 
ceptable to.  the  hunters.  After  reconnoitring  the 
camp  for  some  time,  they  ascertained  it  to  belong 
to  a  band  of  Cheyenne  Indians,  the  same  that  had 
sent  a  deputation  to  the  Arickaras.  They  received 
the  hunters  in  the  most  frieiidly  manner ;  invited 
them  to  their  lodges,  which  were  more  cleanly 
than  Indian  lodges  are  prone  to  be,  and  set  food 
before  them  with  true  uncivilized  hospitality. 
Several  of  them  accompanied  the  hunters  back  to 
the  camp,  when  a  trade  was  immediately  opened. 
The  Cheyennes  were  astonished  and  delighted  to 
find  a  convoy  of  goods  and  trinkets  thus  brought 
into  the  very  heart  of  the  prairie ;  while  Mr. 
Hunt  and  his  companions  were  overjoyed  to  have 
an  opportunity  of  obtaining  a  further  supply  of 
horses  from  these  equestrian  savages. 

During  a  fortnight  that  the  travellers  lingered 
at  this  place,  their  encampment  was  coniinually 
thronged  by  the  Cheyennes.  They  were  a  civil, 
well-behaved  people,  cleanly  in  their  persons  and 
decorous  in  their  habits.  The  men  were  tall, 
straight  and  vigorous,  with  aquiline  noses,  and 
high  cheek  bones.  Some  were  nlmost  as  naked 
as  ancient  statues,  and  might  have  stood  as  models 
for  a  statuary ;  others  had  leggins  and  moccasins 
of  deer  skin,  and  buffalo  robes,  which  they  threw 


SKILL   OF  CHEYENNE  HORSEMEN.     269 


graceftilly  over  their  shoulders.  In  a  little  while, 
however,  they  began  to  appear  in  more  gorgeous 
array,  tricked  out  in  the  finery  obtained  from  the 
white  men ;  bright  cloths,  brass  rings,  beads  of 
various  colors ;  and  happy  was  he  who  could  render 
himself  hideous  with  vermilion. 

The  travellers  had  frequent  occasion  to  admire 
the  skill  and  grace  with  which  these  Indians  man- 
aged their  horses.  Some  of  them  made  a  striking 
display  when  mounted ;  themselves  and  then*  steeds 
decorated  in  gala  style ;  for  the  Indians  often  be- 
stow more  finery  upon  their  horses  than  upon 
themselves.  Some  would  hang  around  the  necks, 
or  rather  on  the  breasts  of  their  horses,  the  most 
predous  ornaments  they  had  obtained  from  the 
white  men;  others  interwove  feathers  in  their 
manes  and  tails.  The  Indian  horses,  too,  appear 
to  have  an  attachment  to  their  wild  riders,  and 
indeed  it  is  said  that  the  horses  of  the  prairies 
readily  distinguish  an  Indian  from  a  white  man 
by  the  smell,  and  give  a  preference  to  the  former. 
Yet  the  Indians,  in  general,  are  hard  riders,  and, 
however  they  may  value  their  horses,  treat  them 
with  great  roughness  and  neglect.  Occasionally 
the  Cheyennes  joined  the  white  hunters  in  pursuit 
of  the  elk  and  buffalo ;  and  when  in  the  ardor  of 
the  chase,  spared  neither  themselves  nor  their 
steeds,  scouring  the  prairies  at  fiill  speed,  and 
plunging  down  precipices  and  frightful  ravines 
that  threatened  the  necks  of  both  horse  and  horse- 
man. The  Indian  steed,  well  trained  to  the  chase, 
seems  as  mad  as  his  rider,  and  pursues  the  game 
as  eagerly  as  if  it  were  his  natural  prey,  on  the 
flesh  of  which  he  was  to  banquet. 


270 


ASTORIA. 


Tlie  history  of  the  Cheyennes  is  that  of  many 
of  those  wandering  tribes  of  the  prairies.  They 
were  the  remnant  of  a  once  powerftil  people  called 
the  Shaways,  inhabiting  a  branch  of  the  Red 
River  which  flows  into  Lake  Winnipeg.  Every 
Indian  tribe  has  some  rival  tribe  with  which  it 
wages  implacable  hostility.  The  deadly  enemies 
of  the  Shaways  were  the  Sioux,  who,  aftei  a  long 
course  of  warfare,  proved  too  powerful  for  them, 
and  drove  them  across  the  Missouri.  They  again 
took  root  near  the  Warricanne  Creek,  and  estab- 
lished themselves  there  in  a  fortified  village. 

The  Sioux  still  followed  them  with  deadly  an- 
imosity; dislodged  them  from  their  village,  and 
compelled  ihem  to  take  refuge  in  the  Black  Hills, 
near  the  upper  waters  of  the  Sheyenne  or  Chey- 
enne River.  Here  they  lost  even  their  name, 
and  became  known  among  the  French  colonists 
by  that  of  the  river  they  frequented. 

The  heart  of  the  tribe  was  now  broken ;  its 
numbers  were  greatly  thinned  by  their  harassing 
wars.  They  no  longer  attempted  to  establish 
themselves  in  any  permanent  abode  that  might 
be  an  object  of  attack  to  their  cruel  foes.  They 
gave  up  the  cultivation  of  the  fruits  of  the  earth, 
and  became  a  wandering  tribe,  subsisting  by  the 
chase,  and  following  the  buffalo  in  its  migrations. 

Their  only  possessions  were  horses,  which  they 
caught  on  the  prairies,  or  reared,  or  captured  on 
predatory  incursions  into  the  Mexican  territories, 
as  has  already  been  mentioned.  With  some  of 
these  they  repaired  once  a  year  to  the  Arickara 
villages,  exchanged  th<>m  for  corn,  beans,  pumpkins, 


FLUCTUATIONB  OF  SAVAGE  LIFE.      271 

and  articles  of  European  merchandise,  and  then 
returned  into  the  heart  of  the  prairies. 

Such  are  the  fluctuating  fortunes  of  these  sav- 
age nations.  War,  famine,  pestilence,  together  or 
singly,  brmg  down  their  strength  and  thin  theh- 
numbers.  Whole  tribes  are  rooted  up  from  their 
native  places,  wander  for  a  time  about  these  im* 
mense  regions,  become  amalgamated  with  other 
tribes,  or  disappear  from  the  face  of  the  earth. 
There  appears  to  be  a  tendency  to  extinction 
among  all  the  savage  nations ;  and  this  tendency 
would  seem  to  have  been  in  operation  among  the 
aboriginals  of  this  country  long  before  the  advent 
of  the  white  men,  if  we  may  judge  from  the  traces 
and  traditions  of  ancient  pripulousness  in  regions 
which  were  silent  and  deserted  at  the.  time-  of  the 
discovery ;  and  from  the  mysterious  and  perplexmg 
vestiges  of  unknown  races,  predecessors  of  those 
found  in  actual  possession,  and  who  must  long 
since  have  become  gradually  extinguished  or  been 
destroyed.  The  whole  history  of  the  aboriginal 
population  of  this  country,  however,  is  an  enigmay 
iOid  a  grand  one  —  will  it  ever  be  solved  ? 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 


l!    .>i2 


N  the  sixth  of  August  the  travellers  bade 
farewell  to  the  friendly  band  of  Chey- 
^fl|  ennes,  and  resumed  their  journey.  As 
they  had  obtained  thirty- six  additional  horses  by 
their  recent  traffic,  Mr.  Hunt  made  a  new  ar- 
rangement. The  baggage  was  made  up  in 
smaller  loads.  A  horse  was  allotted  to  each  of 
the  six  prime  hunters,  and  others  were  distrib- 
uted among  the  voyageurs,  a  horse  for  every  two, 
so  that  they  could  ride  and  walk  alternately. 
Mr.  Crooks  being  still  too  feeble  to  mount  the 
saddle,  was  carried  on  a  litter. 

Their  march  this  day  lay  among  singular  hills 
and  knolls  of  an  indurated  red  earth,  resembling 
brick,  about  the  bases  of  which  were  scattered 
pumice  stones  and  cinders,  the  whole  bearing 
traces  of  the  action  of  fire.  In  the  evening  they 
encamped  on  a  branch  of  Big  River. 

They  were  now  out  of  the  tract  of  country 
infested  by  the  Sioux,  and  had  advanced  such  a 
distance  into  the  interior  that  Mr.  Hunt  no  longer 
felt  apprehensive  of  the  desertion  of  any  of 
his  men.  He  was  doomed,  however,  to  experi- 
Bnce  new  cause  of  anxiety.  As  he  was  seated 
in  his  tent  after  nightfall,  one  of  the  men  came 
to  him  privately,  and  informed  him  that  there 


TREACHERY  JN  THE   CA.lfP. 


273 


Whs  mischief  brewing  in  the  camp.  Edward 
Rose,  the  interpreter,  whose  sinister  loolcs  we 
liave  already  mentioned,  was  denounced  by  this 
secret  informer  as  a  designing,  treacherous  scoun- 
drel, who  was  tampering  with  the  fidelity  of 
certain  of  the  men,  and  instigating  them  to  a 
flagrant  piece  of  treason.  In  the  course  of  a  few 
days  they  would  arrive  at  the  mountainous  dis- 
trict infested  by  the  Upsarokas  or  Crows,  the 
tribe  among  which  Rose  was  to  officiate  as  inter- 
preter. His  plan  was  that  several  of  the  men 
should  join  with  him,  when  in  that  neighborhood, 
in  carrying  off  a  number  of  the  horses  with  their 
packages  of  goods,  and  deserting  to  those  sav- 
ages. He  assured  them  of  good  treatment  among 
the  Crows,  the  principal  chiefs  and  warriors  of 
.whom  he  knew ;  they  would  soon  become  great 
men  among  them,  and  have  the  finest  women, 
and  the  daughters  of  the  chiefs  for  wives ;  and 
the  horses  and  goods  they  carried  off  would  make 
them  rich  for  life. 

The  intelligence  of  this  treachery  on  the  part 
of  Rose  gave  much  disquiet  to  Mr.  Hunt,  for  he 
knew  not  how  far  it  might  be  effective  among 
l)is  men.  He  had  already  had  proofs  that  sev- 
eral of  them  were  disaffected  to  the  enterprise, 
and  loath  to  cross  the  mountains.  He  knew  also 
that  savage  life  had  charms  for  many  of  them, 
especially  the  Canadians,  who  were  prone  to 
intermarry  and  domesticate  themselves  among 
the  Indians. 

And  here  a  word  or  two  concerning  the  Crows 


274 


ASTORIA. 


:t      ih 


:i;i 


may  be  of  service  to   the  reader,  as  they   will 
figure  occasionally  in  the  succeeding  narration. 

The  tribe  consists  of  four  bands,  which  have 
their  nestling-places  in  fertile,  well-wooded  val- 
leys, lying  among  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and 
watered  by  the  Big  Horse  River  and  its  tributary 
Rtreams  ;  but,  though  these  are  properly  their 
homes,  where  they  shelter  their  old  people,  their 
wives,  and  their  children,  the  men  of  the  tribe 
are  almost  continually  on  the  foray  and  the 
scamper.  They  are,  in  fact,  notorious  marauders 
and  horse-stealers ;  crossing  and  reerossing  the 
monntainst  robbing  on  the  one  side,  and  convey- 
ing their  spoils  to  the  other.  Hence,  we  are 
told,  is  derived  their  name,  given  to  them  on  ac- 
count of  their  unsettled  'and  predatory  habits ; 
winging  their  flight,  like  the  crows,  from  one  side 
of  the  mountains  to  the  other,  and  making  free 
booty  of  every  thing  that  lief  in  their  way. 
Horses,  however,  are  the  especial  objects  of  their 
depredations,  and  their  skill  and  audacity  in  steal- 
ing them  are  said  to  be  astonishing.  This  is 
their  glory  and  delight ;  an  accomplished  horse- 
stealer fills  up  their  idea  of  a  hero.  Many  horses 
are  obtained  by  them,  also,  in  barter  from  tribes 
in  and  beyond  the  mountains.  They  have  an  ab- 
solute passion  for  this  noble  animal ;  beside  which 
he  is  with  them  an  important  object  of  traffic. 
Once  a  year  they  make  a  visit  to  the  Mandans, 
Minatarees,  and  other  tribes  of  the  Missouri,  tak- 
ing with  them  droves  of  horses  which  they  ex- 
change for  guns,  ammunition,  trinkets,  vermilion, 
cloths  of  bright  colors,  and  various   other  articles 


•l,:;i 


mm 


A  DESPERADO    OF   THE  FROSTIER.      275 


of  European  manufacture.  With  thesuB  they  sup- 
ply tlieir  own  wants  and  caprices,  and  carry  oq 
tho  internal  trade  for  horses  already  mentioned. 

The  plot  *of  Rose  to  rob  and  abandon  his 
countrymen  when  in  the  heart  of  tlie  wilderness, 
and  to  throw  himself  into  the  hands  of  a  horde 
of  savages,  may  appear  strange  and  improbable  to 
those  unacquainted  with  the  singular  and  anom- 
alous characters  that  are  to  be  found  about  the 
borders.  This  fellow,  it  appears,  was  one  of 
those  desperadoes  of  the  frontiers,  outlawed  by 
their  crimes,  who  combine  the  vices  of  civilized 
and  savage  life,  and  are  ten  times  more  barbarous 
than  the  Indians  with  whom  they  consort.  Rose 
had  formerly  belonged  to  one  of  the  gangs  of 
pirates  who  infested  the  islands  of  the  Mississippi, 
plundering  boats  as  they  went  up  and  down  the 
river,  and  who  sometimes  shifted  the  scene  of 
their  robberies  to  the  shore,  waylaying  travellers 
as  they  returned  by  land  from  New  Orleans  with 
the  proceeds  of  their  downward  voyage,  plun- 
dering them  of  their  money  and  effects,  and 
often  perpetrating  the  most  atrocious  murders. 

These  hordes  of  villains  being  broken  up  and 
dispersed.  Rose  had  betaken  himself  to  the  wil- 
derness, and  associated  himself  with  the  Crows, 
whose  predatory  habits  were  congenial  with  his 
own,  had  married  a  woman  of  the  tribe,  and,  in 
^hort,  had  identified  himself  with  those  vagrant 
eavages. 

Such  was  the  worthy  guide  and  interpreter, 
Edward  Rose.  We  give  his  story,  however,  not 
as  it  was  known  to  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  companions 


276 


ASTORfA. 


Hnllfi 


at  the  time,  but  as  it  has  been  subsequentlj  as- 
certained. Enough  was  known  of  the  fellow  and 
his  dark  and  perfidious  character  to  put  Mr. 
Hunt  upon  his  guard  :  still,  as  there  was  no 
knowing  how  far  his  plans  might  have  succeeded, 
and  as  any  rash  act  might  blow  the  mere  smoul- 
dering sparks  of  treason  into  a  sudden  blaze,  it 
WHS  thought  advisable  by  those  with  whom  Mi*. 
Hunt  consulted,  to  conceal  all  knowledge  or  sus- 
picion of  the  meditated  treachery,  but  to  keep  up 
a  vigilant  watch  upon  the  movements  of  R0&5, 
And  a  strict  gup.rd  upon  the  horses  at  night. 


CHAPTER  XXV. 


I  HE  plains  over  which  the  travellers  were 
journeying  continued  to  be  destitute  of 
trees  or  even  shrubs ;  insomuch  that 
they  had  to  use  the  dung  of  the  buffalo  for  fuel, 
as  the  Arabs  of  the  desert  use  that  of  the  camel. 
This  substitute  for  fuel  is  universal  among  the 
Indians  of  these  upper  prairies,  and  is  said  to 
make  a  fire  equal  to  that  of  turf.  If  a  few 
chips  are  added,  it  throws  out  a  cheerful  and 
kindly  blaze. 

These  plains,  however,  had  not  always  been 
equally  destitute  of  wood,  as  was  evident  from 
the  trunks  of  the  trees  which  the  travellers  re- 
peatedly met  with,  some  still  standing,  others 
lying  about  in  broken  fragments,  but  all  in  a 
fossil  state,  having  flourished  in  times  long  past. 
In  these  singular  remains,  the  original  grain  of 
the  wood  was  still  so  distinct  that  they  could  be 
ascertained  to  be  the  ruins  of  oak  trees.  Several 
pieces  of  the  fossil  wood  were  selected  by  the 
men  to  serve  as  whetstones. 

In  this  part  of  the  journey  there  was  no  lack 
of  provia',ons,  for  the  prairies  were  covered  with 
immense  herds  of  IBufiklo.  These,  in  general, 
are  animals  of  peaceful  demeanor,  grazing  quietly 
like   domestic   cattle;   but   this  was   the  season 


278 


A8TCRIA, 


i\       l!B 


when  they  are  in  heat»  and  when  the  balls  are 
usually  fierce  and  pugnacious.  There  was  ac- 
cordingly a  universal  restlessness  and  commotion 
throughout  the  plain ;  and  the  amorous  herds 
gave  utterance  to  their  feelings  in  low  bellowings 
that  resounded  like  distant  thunder.  Here  and 
there  fierce  duellos  took  place  between  rival 
euamorados ;  butting  their  huge  shagged  fronts 
together,  goring  each  other  with  their  short  black 
horns,  and  tearing  up  the  earth  with  their  feet  in 
perfect  fury. 

In  one  of  the  evening  halts,  Pierre  Dorion^  the 
interpreter,  together  with  Carson  and  Gardpie, 
two  of  the  hunters,  were  missing,  nor  had  they 
returned  by  morning.  As  it  was  supposed  tliey 
had  wandered  away  in  pursuit  of  buffalo,  and 
would  readily  find  the  track  of  the  party,  no 
solicitude  was  felt  on  their  account.  A  fire  was 
left  burning,  to  guide  them  by  its  column  of 
smoke,  and  the  travellers  proceeded  on  their 
march.  In  the  evening  a  signal  fire  was  made 
on  a  hill  adjacent  to  the  camp,  and  in  the  morning 
it  was  replenished  with  fuel  so  as  to  last  through- 
out the  day.  These  signals  are  usual  among  the 
Indians,  to  give  warnings  to  each  other,  or  to  call 
home  straggling  hunters ;  and  such  is  the  trans- 
parency of  the  atmosphere  in  those  elevated 
>  plains,  that  a  slight  column  of  smoke  can  be  dis« 
cerned  from  a  great  distance,  particularly  in  the 
evenings.  Two  or  three  days  elapsed,  however, 
without  the  reappearance  of  the  three  hunters ; 
and  Mr.  Hunt  slackened  his  march  to  give  them 
time  to  overtake  him. 


THE  LOST  HUNTERS. 


f,n 


>wever. 


A  vigilant  watch  continued  to  be  kept  upon 
the  movements  of  Rose,  and  of  such  of  the  men 
as  were  considered  doubtful  in  their  loyalty ;  but 
nothing  occurred  to  excite  immediate  apprehen- 
sions. Rose  evidently  was  not  a  favorite  among 
his  comrades,  and  it  was  hoped  that  he  had  not 
been  able  to  make  any  real  partisans. 

On  the  10th  of  August  they  encamped  among 
hills,  on  the  highest  peak  of  which  Mr.  Hunt 
caused  a  huge  pyre  of  pine  wood  to  be  made^ 
which  soon  sent  up  a  great  column  of  flame  that 
might  be  seen  far  and  wide  over  the  prairies. 
This  fire  blazed  all  night,  and  was  amply  replen^ 
ished  at  daybreak  ;  so  that  the  towering  pillar  of 
smoke  could  not  but  be  descried  by  the  wanderers 
if  within  the  distance  of  a  day's  journey. 

It  is  a  common  occurrence  in  these  regions, 
where  the  features  of  the  country  so  much  resem* 
ble  each  other,  for  hunters  to  lose  themselves  and 
wander  for  many  days,  before  they  can  find  their 
way  back  to  the  main  body  of  their  party.  In 
the  present  instance,  however,  a  more  than  com- 
mon solicitude  was  felt,  in  consequence  of  tl)« 
distrust  awakened  by  the  sinister  designs  of  Rose. 

The  route  now  became  excessively  toilsome, 
over  a  ridge  of  steep  rocky  hills,  covered  with 
loose  stones.  These  were  intersected  by  deep 
valley Sj  formed  by  two  branches  of  Big  River, 
Boming  from  the  south  of  west,  both  of  which 
they  crossed.  These  streams  were  bordered  by 
meadows,  well  stocked  with  buffaloes.  Loads  of 
meat  were  brought  in  by  the  hunters  ;  but  the 
travellers  were  rendered  dainty  by  profusion,  and 
would  cook  only  the  choice  pieces. 


280 


ASTORIA. 


They  had  now  travelled  for  several  days  at  a 
very  slow  rate,  and  had  made  signal-fires  and  lefl 
traces  of  their  route  at  every  stage,  yet  nothing 
was  heard  or  seen  of  the  lost  men.  It  began  to 
be  feared  that  they  might  have  fallen  into  the 
hands  of  some  lurking  band  of  savages.  A  party 
numerous  as  that  of  Mr.  Hunt,  with  a  long  train 
of  pack-horses,  moving  across  open  plains  or 
naked  hills,  is  discoverable  at  a  great  distance  by 
Inc'ian  scouts,  who  spread  the  intelligence  rapidly 
to  various  points,  and  assemble  their  friends  to 
hang  about  the  skirts  of  the  travellers,  steal  their 
horses,  or  cut  off  any  stragglers  from  the  main 
body. 

Mr.  Hunt  and  his  companions  were  more  and 
more  sersible  how  much  it  would  be  in  the  power 
of  this  sullen  and  daring  vagabond  Rose,  to  do 
them  mischief,  when  they  should  become  en- 
tangled in  the  defiles  of  the  mountains,  with  the 
passes  of  which  they  were  wholly  unacquainted, 
and  which  were  infested  by  his  freebooting 
friends,  the  Crows.  There,  should  he  succeed 
in  seducing  some  of  the  party  into  his  plans,  he 
might  carry  off  the  best  horses  and  effects,  throw 
himself  among  his  savage  allies,  and  set  all  pur- 
suit at  defiance.  Mr.  Hunt  resolved,  therefore, 
to  frustrate  the  knave,  divert  him,  by  manage- 
ment, from  his  plans,  and  make  it  sufficiently 
advantageous  ibr  him  to  remain  honest.  He  took 
occasion,  accordingly,  in  the  course  of  conversa- 
tion, to  inform  Rose  that,  having  engaged  him 
chiefiy  as  a  guide  and  interpreter  through  the 
country  of  the  Crows,  they  would  not  stand  in 


A  BRIBE   TO  BE  HONEST. 


281 


pur- 
efore, 
nage- 
iently 
took 
ersa- 
him 
I  the 
id  in 


need  of  his  services  beyond.  Knowing,  there- 
fore, his  connection  by  marriage  with  that  tribe, 
and  his  predilection  for  a  residence  among  them, 
they  would  put  no  restraint  upon  his  will,  but, 
whenever  they  met  with  a  party  of  that  people, 
would  leave  him  at  liberty  to  remain  among  his 
adopted  brethren.  Furthermore,  that,  in  thus 
parting  with  him,  they  wouh|  pay  him  half  a 
years  wages  in  consideration  of  Bi§»  past  services, 
and  would  give  him  a  horse,  three  beaver  traps, 
and  sundry  other  articles  calculated  to  set  him  up 
in  the  world. 

This  unexpected  liberality,  which  made  it 
nearly  as  profitable  and  infinitely  less  hazard- 
ous for  Rose  to  remain  honest  than  to  play  the 
rogue,  completely  disarmed  him.  From  that 
time  his  whole  deportment  underwent  a  change. 
His  brow  cleared  up  and  appeared  more  cheer- 
ful ;  he  left  off  his  sullen,  skulking  habits,  and 
made  no  further  attempts  to  tamper  with  the 
faith  of  his  comrades. 

On  the  13th  of  August  Mr.  Hunt  varied  his 
course,  and  inclined  westward,  in  hopes  of  falling 
in  with  the  three  lost  hunters ;  who,  it  was  now 
thought,  might  have  kept  to  the  right  hand  of 
Big  River.  This  course  soon  brought  him  to  a 
fork  of  the  Little  Missouri,  about  a  hundred 
yards  wide,  and  resembling  the  great  river  of  the 
same  name  in  the  strength  of  its  current,  its  tur- 
bid water,  and  the  frequency  of  drift-wood  and 
sunken  irees. 

Rugged  mountains  appeared  ahead,  crowding 
down  to  the  water  edge,  and  offering  a  barrier 


282 


ASTORIA, 


to  further  progress  on  the  side  they  were  ascend- 
ing. Crossing  the  river,  therefore,  they  encamped 
on  its  northwest  bank,  where  they  found  good  pas- 
turage and  buffalo  in  abundance.  The  weather 
was  overcast  and  rainy,  and  a  general  gloom  per- 
vaded the  camp;  the  voyageurs  sat  smoking  in 
groups,  with  their  shoulders  as  high  as  their  heads, 
croaking  iheir  foreboding,  when  suddenly  towards 
evening  a  sho«ifc  of  joy  gave  notice  that  the  lost 
men  were  found.  They  came  slowly  lagging 
into  the  camp,  with  weary  looks,  and  horses 
jaded  and  wayworn.  They  had,  in  fact,  been 
for  several  days  incessantly  on  the  move.  In 
their  hunting  excursion  on  the  praines  they  had 
pushed  so  far  in  pursuit  of  buffalo,  as  to  find  it 
impossible  to  retraeo  their  steps  over  plains 
trampled  by  innumerable  herds;  and  were  baf- 
fled by  the  monotony  of  the  landscape  in  their 
attempts  to  recall  landmarks.  They  had  ridden 
to  and  fro  until  they  had  almost  lost  the  points  of 
the  compass,  and  become  totally  bewildered ;  nor 
did  they  ever  perceive  any  of  the  signal  fires  and 
columns  of  smoke  made  by  their  comrades.  At 
length,  about  two  days  previously,  when  almost 
spent  by  anxiety  and  hard  riding,  they  came,  to 
their  great  joy,  upon  the  "  trail "  of  the  party, 
which  they  had  since  followed  up  steadily. 

Those  only,  who  have  experienced  the  warm 
cordiality  that  grows  up  between  comrades  in 
wild  and  adventurous  expeditions  of  the  kind, 
can  picture  *o  themselves  the  hearty  cheering 
with  which  the  stragglers  were  welcomed  to  the 
camp.     Every  one  crowded  round  them  to  ask 


rarm 

s  in 

ind, 

ring 

the 

ask 


REJOICINGa  IN  PIERRE* 8  FAMILY.     288 

questions,  and  to  hear  the  story  of  their  mishaps ; 
and  even  the  squaw  of  the  raoody  half-breed^ 
Pierre  Dorion,  forgot  the  sternness  of  his  do- 
mestic rule,  and  the  conjugal  discipline  of  tJie 
cudgel,  in  her  joy  at  his  safe  return. 


CHAPTER  XXVL 


*%l\ 


R.  HUNT  and  his  party  were  now  on 
the  skirts  of  the  Black  Hills,  or  Black 
Mountfiins,  as  they  are  sometimes  called ; 
an  extensive  oliain,  lying  about  a  hundred  miles 
east  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  stretching  in  a 
northeast  direction  from  the  south  fork  of  the 
Nebraska,  or  Platte  River,  to  the  great  north 
bend  of  the  Missouri.  The  Sierra  or  ridge  of 
the  Black  Hills,  in  fact,  forms  the  dividing  line 
between  the  wa^^^rs  of  the  Missouri  and  those  of 
the  Arkansas  and  the  Mississippi,  and  gives  rise 
to  the  Cheyenne,  the  Little  Missouri,  and  several 
tributary  streams  of  the  Yellowstone. 

The  wild  recesses  of  these  hills,  like  those  of 
the  Rocky  Mountains,  are  retreats  and  lurking- 
places  for  broken  and  predatory  tribes,  and  it 
was  among  them  that  the  remnant  of  the 
Cheyenne  tribe  took  refuge,  as  has  been  stated, 
from  their  conquering  enemies,  the  Sioux. 

The  Black  Hills  are  chiefly  composed  of  sand- 
stone,  and  in  many  places  are  broken  into  savage 
cliffs  and  precipices,  and  present  the  most  singular 
and  fantastic  forms  ;  sometimes  resembling  towns 
and  castellated  fortresses.  The  ignorant  mhabi- 
tants  of  plains  are  prone  to  clothe  the  mountains 
that  bound  their  horizon  with  fanciful  and  super- 


BINGVLAR  MOUNTAIN  PHENOMENON.  285 


id- 
ige 
liar 

^119 

Ibi- 
lus 


stitious  attributes.  Thus  the  wandering  tribes 
of  the  prairies,  who  often  behold  clouds  gathering 
round  the  summits  of  these  hills,  and  lightning 
flashing,  and  thunder  pealing  from  them,  when 
all  the  neighboring  plains  are  serene  and  sunny, 
consider  them  tlie  abode  of  the  genii  or  thunder- 
spirits  who  fabricate  storms  and  tempests.  On 
entering  their  defiles,  therefore, ;  they  often  hang 
offerings  on  the  trees,  or  place  them  on  the  rocks, 
to  propitiate  the  invisible  "lords  of  the  moun- 
tains," and  procure  good  weather  and  successful 
hunting ;  and  they  attach  unusual  significance  to 
the  echoes  which  haunt  the  precipices.  This 
superstition  may  also  have  arisen,  in  part,  from  a 
natural  phenomenon  of  a  singular  nature.  In 
the  most  calm  and  serene  weather,  and  at  all 
times  of  the  day  or  night,  successive  reports  are 
now  and  then  heard  among  these  mountains, 
resembling  the  discharge  of  several  pieces  of 
artillery.  Similar  reports  were  heard  by  Messrs. 
Lewis  and  Clarke  in  the  Rocky  Mountains,  which 
they  say  were  attributed  by  the  Indians  to  the 
bursting  of  the  rich  mines  of  silver  contained  in 
the  bosom  of  the  mountains. 

In  fact,  these  singular  explosions  have  received 
fimciful  explanations  from  learned  men,  and  have 
not  been  satisfactorily  accounted  for  even  by 
philosophers.  They  are  said  to  occur  frequently 
in  Brazil.  Vasconcelles,  a  Jesuit  father,  describes 
one  which  he  heard  in  the  Sierra,  or  mountain 
region  of  Piratininga,  and  which  he  compares  to 
the  discharges  of  a  park  of  artillery.  The 
Indians  told  him   that  it  was  an  explosion  of 


m. 


m 


II 


'1! 


286 


ASTORIA. 


stones.  The  worthy  father  had  soon  a  satisfao* 
tory  proof  of  the  truth  of  their  information,  for 
the  very  place  was  found  where  a  rock  had  burst 
and  exploded  from  its  entrails  a  stony  mass,  like 
a  bomb-shell,  and  of  the  size  of  a  bull's  heart. 
This  mass  was  broken  either  in  its  ejection  or  its 
fall,  and  wonderful  was  the  internal  organization 
revealed.  It  had  a  shell  harder  even  than  iron  ; 
within  which  were  arranged,  like  the  seeds  of  a 
pomegranate,  jewels  of  various  colors ;  some  trans- 
parent as  crystal ;  others  of  a  fine  red,  ajid  others 
of  mixed  hues.  The  same  phenomenon  is  said 
to  occur  occasionally  in  the  adjacent  province  of 
Guayra,  where  stones  of  the  bigness  of  a  man's 
hand  are  exploded,  witli  a  loud  noise,  from  the 
bosom  of  the  earth,  and  scatter  about  glittering 
and  beautiful  fragments  that  look  like  precious 
gems,  but  are  of  no  value. 

The  Indians  of  the  Orellanna,  also,  tell  of 
horrible  noises  heard  occasionally  in  the  Para- 
guaxo,  which  they  consider  the  throes  and  groans 
of  the  mountain,  endeavoring  to  cast  forth  the 
precious  stones  hidden  within  its  entrails.  Others 
have  endeavored  to  account  for  these  discharges 
of  "  mountain  artillery "  on  humbler  principles ; 
attributing  them  to  the  loud  reports  made  by  the 
disruption  and  fall  of  great  masses  of  rock, 
raverberated  and  prolonged  by  the  echoes  ;  others, 
to  the  disengagement  of  hydrogen,  produced  by 
subterraneous  beds  of  coal  in  a  state  of  ignition. 
In  whatever  way  this  singular  phenomenon  ^nay 
may  be  accounted  for,  the  existence  of  it  appears 
to  be  well  established.     It  remains  one  of  th« 


THE  BIGHORN. 


287 


of 

ira- 

>ans 

the 

vers 

'ges 

les; 

thA 

•ck, 

[era, 

by 

ion. 
lay 
mrfl 


lingering  mysteries  of  nature  which  throw  some- 
tiling  of  a  supernatural  charm  over  her  wild 
mountain  solitudes;  and  we  doubt  whether  tlie 
imaginative  reader  will  not  rather  join  with  the 
[)oor  Indian  in  attributing  it  to  the  thunder- 
spirits,  or  the  guardian  genii  of  unseen  treasures, 
than  to  any  commonplace  physical  cause. 

Whatever  might  be  the  supernatural  influences 
among  these  mountains^  the  travellers  found  their 
physical  difficulties  hard  to  cope  with.  They 
made  repeated  attempts  to  find  a  passage  through 
or  over  the  chain,  but  were  as  often  turned 
back  by  impassable  barriers.  Sometimes  a  defile 
seemed  to  open  a  practicable  path,  but  it  would 
terminate  in  some  wild  chaos  of  rocks  and  cliffs, 
which  it  was  impossible  to  climb.  The  animals 
of  these  solitary  regions  were  different  from 
those  they  had  been  accustomed  to.  The  black- 
tailed  deer  would  bound  up  the  ravines  on  their 
approach,  and  the  bighorn  would  gaze  fearlessly 
down  upon  them  from  some  impending  precipice, 
or  skip  playfully  irom  rock  to  rock.  These 
animals  are  only  to  be  met  with  in  mountainous 
regions.  The  former  is  larger  than  the  common 
deer,  but  its  flesh  is  not  equally  esteemed  by 
hunters.  It  has  very  large  ears,  and  the  tip  of 
the  tail  is  black,  from  which  it  derives  its  name. 

The  bighorn  is  so  named  from  its  horns ; 
which  are  of  a  great  size,  and  twisted  like  those 
of  a  ram.  It  is  called  by  some  the  argali,  by 
others  the  ibex,  though  differing  from  both  of 
these  animals.  The  Mandans  call  it  the  ahsahta, 
ft  name  much  better  than  the  clumsy  appellation 


ii    .1 

1  'Ii 

1 

Ii 

J 

w 

288 


ASTORIA, 


which  it  generally  bears.  Tt  is  of  the  size  of  a 
small  elk,  or  large  deer,  and  of  a  dun  color 
excepting  the  belly  and  round  the  tail,  where  it 
is  white.  In  its  habits  it  resembles  the  goat, 
frequenting  the  rudest  precipices ;  cropping  the 
herbage  from  their  edges  ;  and  like  the  c^^amois, 
bounding  lightly  and  securely  among  dizzy 
heights,  where  the  hunter  dares  not  venture.  It 
is  difficult,  therefore,  to  get  within  shot  of  it. 
Ben  Jones  the  hunter,  however,  in  one  of  the 
passes  of  the  Black  Hills,  succeeded  in  bringing 
down  a  bighorn  from  the  verge  of  a  precipice, 
the  flesh  of  which  was  pronounced  by  the  gor- 
nxands  of  the  camp  to  have  the  flavor  of  excellent 
mutton. 

Baffled  in  his  attempts  to  traverse  this  moun- 
tain chain,  Mr.  Hunt  skirted  along  it  to  the 
southwest,  keeping  it  on  the  right ;  and  still  in 
hopes  of  finding  an  opening.  At  an  early  hour 
one  day,  he  encamped  in  a  narrow  valley  on  the 
banks  of  a  beautifully  clear  but  rushy  pool ;  sur- 
rounded by  thickets  bearing  abundance  of  wild 
cherries,  currants,  and  yellow  and  purple  goose- 
berries. 

While  the  afternoon's  meal  was  in  preparation, 
Mr.  Hunt  and  Mr.  M'Kenzie  ascended  to  the 
summit  of  the  nearest  hill,  from  whence,  aided 
by  the  purity  and  transparency  of  the  evening 
atmosphere,  they  oommanded  a  vast  prospect  on 
all  sides.  Below  them  extended  a  plain,  dotted 
with  innumerable  herds  of  buffalo.  Some  were 
lying  down  among  the  herb&ge,  others  roaming 
in  their  unbounded  pastures,  while  many  were 


'IHE  GRIZZLY  BEAR. 


289 


ition, 
the 
lided 
feuing 
[t  on 
)tted 
rere 
ling 
rere 


engaged  in  fierce  contests  like  those  already 
described,  their  low  bellowings  reaching  the  ear 
like  the  hoarse  murmurs  of  the  surf  on  a  distant 
shore. 

Far  off  in  the  west  they  descried  a  range  of 
lofty  mountains  printing  the  clear  horizon,  some 
of  them  evidently  capped  with  snow.  These 
they  supposed  to  be  the  Big  horn  Mountains,  so 
called  from  the  animal  of  that  name,  with  which 
they  abound.  They  are  a  spur  of  the  great 
Rocky  chain.  The  hill  from  whence  Mr.  Hunt 
had  tliis  prospect  was,  according  to  his  computa- 
tion, about  two  hundred  and  fifty  miles  from  the 
Arickara  village. 

On  returning  to  the  camp,  Mr.  Hunt  found 
some  uneasiness  prevailing  among  the  Canadian 
voyageurs.  In  straying  among  the  thickets  they 
had  beheld  tracks  of  grizzly  bears  in  every  di- 
rection, doubtless  attracted  thither  by  the  fruit. 
To  their  dismay,  they  now  found  that  they  had 
encamped  in  one  of  the  favorite  resorts  of  thif 
dreaded  animal.  The  idea  marred  all  the  com- 
fort of  the  encampment.  As  night  closed,  the 
surrounding  thickets  were  peopled  with  terrors  ; 
insomuch  that,  according  to  Mr.  Hunt,  they  could 
not  help  starting  at  every  little  breeze  that  stirred 
the  bushes. 

The  grizzly  bear  is  the  only  really  formidable 
(luadruped  of  our  continent.  He  is  the  favorite 
theme  of  the  hunters  of  the  far  West,  who  de- 
scribe him  as  equal  in  size  to  a  common  cow  and 
of  prodigious  strength.     He  makes  battle  if  as- 

uiiled,  and  often,  if  pressed  by  hunger,  is  the 
19 


i 


200 


AS  TOR /A, 


% 


assailant.  If  wounded,  he  bccomea  furious  nnH 
will  pursue  the  hunter.  His  speed  exceeds  that 
of  a  man  but  is  inferior  to  that  of  a  horse.  In 
attacking  he  rears  himself  on  hij  hind  legs,  and 
springs  the  length  of  his  body.  Woe  to  horse 
or  rider  that  comes  within  the  sweep  of  his  terrific 
claws,  which  are  sometimes  nine  inches  in  length, 
and  tear  everything  before  them. 

At  the  time  we  are  treating  of,  the  grizzly 
jear  was  still  frequent  on  the  Missouri  and  in 
the  lower  country,  but,  like  some  of  the  broken 
tribes  of  the  prairie,  he  hao  gradually  fallen  back 
before  his  enemies,  and  is  now  chiefiy  to  be  found 
in  the  upland  regions,  in  rugged  fastiiessess  like 
those  of  the  Black  Hills  and  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains. Here  he  lurks  in  caverns,  or  holes  which 
he  has  digged  in  the  sides  of  hills,  or  under  the 
roots  uud  trunks  of  fallen  trees.  Like  the  com- 
mon bear,  he  is  fond  of  fruits,  and  mastj  and 
roots,  the  latte**  of  which  he  will  dig  up  with 
his  fore  claws.  He  is  carnivorous  ak  ,  and 
will  even  attack  and  conquer  the  lordly  buffalo, 
dragging  his  huge  carcass  to  the  neighborhood 
of  his  den,  that  he  may  prey  upon  it  at  his 
leisure. 

The  hunters,  both  white  and  red  men,  consider 
this  the  most  heroic  game.  They  prefer  to  hunt 
him  on  horseback,  and  will  venture  so  near  as 
sometimes  to  singe  his  hair  with  the  flash  of  the 
rifle.  The  hunter  of  the  grizzly  bear,  however, 
must  be  an  experienced  hand,  and  know  where 
to  aim  at  a  vital  part ;  for  of  all  quadrupeds,  he 
s  the  most  difl\cult  to  be  killed.     He  will   re- 


ADVENTURE   OF    WlLLfAXf  CANNON.    291 


36116  repeated  wounds  without  flinching,  and 
rarely  is  a  shot  mortal  unless  th:  ough  the  head 
or  heart 

That  the  dangers  apprehended  from  the  grizzly 
bear,  at  this  night  encampment,  were  not  imag- 
inary, was  proved  on  the  following  morning. 
Among  the  hired  men  of  the  party  was  one 
William  Cannon,  who  had  been  a  soldier  at  one 
of  the  frontier  posts,  and  entered  into  the  em- 
ploy of  Mr.  Hunt  at  Mackinaw.  He  was  an 
inexperienced  hunter  and  a  poor  shot,  for  which 
ho  was  much  bantered  by  his  more  adroit  com- 
rades. Piqued  at  their  raillery,  he  had  been 
practicing  ever  since  he  had  joined  the  expedi- 
tion, but  without  success.  In  the  course  of  the 
present  afternoon,  he  went  forth  by  himself  to 
take  a  lesson  in  venerie,  and,  to  his  great  delight, 
had  the  good  fortune  to  kill  a  buffalo.  As  he 
was  a  considerable  distance  from  the  camp,  he  cut 
out  the  tongue  and  some  of  the  choice  bits,  made 
them  into  a  parcel,  and  slinging  them  on  his 
shoulders  by  a  strap  passed  round  his  forehead, 
as  the  voyageurs  carry  packages  of  goods,  set 
out  all  glorious  for  the  camp,  anticipating  a  tri- 
umph over  his  brother  hunters.  In  passing 
through  a  narrow  ravine,  he  heard  a  noise  be- 
hind him,  and  looking  round  beheld,  to  his  dis- 
may, a  grizzly  bear  in  full  pursuit,  apparently 
attracted  by  the  scent  of  the  meat.  Cannon  had 
heard  so  much  of  the  invulnerability  of  this  tre- 
mendous aninal,  that  he  never  attempted  to  fire, 
but,  slipping  the  strap  from  his  forehead,  let  go 
Lhe  buffalo  meat  and  ran  for  his  life.     The  bear 


292 


ASTORIA, 


did  not  stop  to  regale  himself  with  the  game,  but 
kept  on  after  the  hunter.  He  had  nearly  over- 
taken him  when  Cannon  reached  a  tree,  and, 
throwing  down  his  rifle,  scrambled  up  it.  The 
next  instant  Bruin  was  at  the  foot  of  the  treei^^ 
but,  as  this  species  of  bear  does  not  climb,  he 
contented  himself  with  turning  the  chase  into  a 
blockade.  Night  came  on.  In  the  darkness 
Cannon  could  not  perceive  whether  or  not  the 
enemy  maintained  his  station ;  but  his  fears  pic- 
tured him  rigorously  mounting  guard.  He  passed 
the  night,  therefore,  in  the  tree,  a  prey  to  dismal 
fancies.  In  the  morning  the  bear  was  gone. 
Cannon  warily  descended  the  tree,  gathered  up 
his  gun,  and  made  the  best  of  his  way  back  to 
the  camp,  without  venturing  to  look  after  his 
buffalo  meat. 

While  on  this  tbeme  we  will  add  another  an- 
ecdote of  an  adventure  with  a  grizzly  bear,  told  of 
John  Day,  the  Kentucky  hunter,  but  which  hap- 
pened at  a  different  period  of  the  expedition.  Day 
was  hunting  in  company  with  one  of  the  clerks  of 
the  company,  a  lively  youngster,  who  was  a  great 
favorite  with  the  veteran,  but  whose  vivacity  he 
had  continually  to  keep  in  check.  They  were  in 
search  of  deer,  when  suddenly  a  huge  grizzly 
bear  emerged  from  a  thicket  about  thirty  yards 
kiistant,  rearing  himself  upon  his  hind  legs  witli 
a  terrific  growl,  and  displaying  a  hideous  array 
of  teeth  and  claws.  The  rifle  of  the  young  man 
was  leveled  in  an  instant,  but  John  Day's  iron 
hand  was  as  quickly  upon  his  arm.  "  Be  quiet, 
boy !  b3  quiet ! "  exclaimed  the  hunter  between 


BULLIED  Br  A   GRIZZLY, 


296 


his  clenched  teeth,  and  without  turning  his  eyes 
from  the  bear.  They  remained  motionless.  The 
monster  regarded  them  for  a  time,  then,  lowering 
himself  on  his  fore  paws,  slowly  withdrew.  He 
had  not  gone  many  paces  before  he  again  re- 
turned, reared  himself  on  his  hind  legs,  and 
repeated  his  n':^nac6.  Day's  hand  was  still  on 
the  arm  of  his  young  companion ;  he  again 
pressed  it  hard,  and  kept  repeating  between  his 
teeth, "  Quiet,  boy !  — keep  quiet ! — keep  quiet  I " 
—  though  the  latter  had  not  made  a  move  since 
his  first  prohibition.  The  bear  again  lowered 
himself  on  all  fours,  retreated  some  twenty 
yards  further,  and  again  turned,  reared,  showed 
his  teeth,  and  growled.  This  third  menace  was 
too  much  for  the  game  spirit  of  John  Day.  "  By 
Jove ! "  exclaimed  he,  "  I  can  stand  this  no 
longer,"  and  in  an  instant  a  ball  from  his  rifle 
whizzed  into  the  foe.  The  wound  was  not 
mortal;  but,  luckily,  it  dismayed  instead  of 
enraging  the  animal,  and  he  retreated  into  the 
thicket. 

Day's  young  companion  reproached  him  for 
not  practicing  the  caution  which  he  enjoined 
upon  others.  "  Why,  boy,"  replied  the  veteran, 
"caution  is  caution,  but  one  must  not  put  up 
irith  too  much,  even  from  a  bear.  Would  you 
have  me  suffer  myself  to  be  bullied  all  day  by  a 
varmint  ? '' 


CHAPTER  XXVIT. 


OR  the  two  following  days,  the  travellers 
pursued  a  westerly  course  for  thirty-four 
miles  along  a  ridge  of  country  dividing 
the  tributary  waters  of  the  Missouri  and  the 
Yellowstone.  As  landmarks  they  guided  them- 
selves by  the  summits  of  the  far  distant  moun- 
tains, which  they  supposed  to  belong  to  the  Big- 
horn chain.  They  were  gradually  rising  into 
a  higher  temperature,  for  the  weaiher  was  cold 
for  the  season,  with  a  sharp  frost  in  the  night, 
and  ice  of  an  eighth  of  an  inch  in  thickness. 

On  the  twenty-second  of  August,  early  in  the 
day,  they  came  upon  the  trail  of  a  numerous 
band.  Rose  and  the  other  hunters  examined 
the  foot-prints  with  great  attention,  and  deter- 
mined it  to  be  the  trail  of  a  party  of  Crows,  re- 
turning from  an  annual  trading  visit  to  the  Man- 
dans.  As  this  trail  afforded  more  commodious 
travelling,  they  immediately  struck  into  it,  and 
followed  it  for  two  days.  It  led  them  over 
rough  hills,  and  through  broken  gullies,  during 
which  time  they  suffered  great  fatigue  from  the 
ruggedness  of  the  country.  The  weather,  too, 
which  had  recently  been  frosty,  was  now  op* 
pressively  warm,  and  there  was  a  great  scarcity 
of  water,  insomuch  that  a  valuable  dog  belonging 
to  Mr  M'Kenzie  died  of  thirst. 


A  HUN  TEWS  PARADISE. 


295 


the 

too, 

op" 

Tcity 


At  one  time  they  had  twenty-five  miles  of 
painful  travel,  without  a  drop  of  water,  until 
they  arrived  at  a  small  running  stream.  Here 
they  eagerly  slaked  their  thirst ;  but,  this  being 
allayed,  the  calls  of  hunger  became  equally  im- 
portunate. Ever  since  they  had  got  among 
these  barren  and  arid  hills,  where  there  was  a 
deficiency  of  grass,  they  had  met  with  no  buffa- 
loes ;  those  animals  keeping  in  the  grassy  mead- 
ows near  the  streams.  They  were  obliged,  there- 
fore, to  have  recourse  to  their  corn  meal,  which 
they  reserved  for  such  emergencies.  Some, 
however,  were  lucky  enough  to  kill  a  wolf,  which 
they  cooked  for  supper,  and  pronounced  excellent 
food. 

The  next  morning  they  resumed  their  wayfar- 
ing, hungry  and  jaded,  and  had  a  dogged  march 
of  eighteen  miles  among  the  same  kind  of  hills. 
At  length  they  emerged  upon  a  stream  of  clear 
water,  one  of  the  forks  of  Powder  River,  and  to 
their  great  joy  beheld  once  more  wide  grassy 
meadows,  stocked  with  herds  of  buffalo.  For 
several  days  they  kept  along  the  banks  of  the 
river,  ascending  it  about  eighteen  miles.  It  was 
a  hunter's  paradise  ;  the  buffaloes  were  in  such 
abundance  that  they  were  enabled  to  kill  as 
many  as  they  pleased,  and  to  jerk  a  sufficient 
supply  of  meat  for  several  day's  journeying. 
Here,  then,  they  reveled  and  reposed  after  their 
hungry  and  weary  travel,  hunting  and  feasting, 
and  reclining  upon  the  grass.  Their  quiet,  how- 
ever, was  a  little  marred  by  coming  upon  traces 
of  Indians,  who,  they  concluded,  must  be  Crows ; 


296 


ASTORIA. 


they  were  therefore  obliged  to  keep  a  more  vigi- 
lant watch  than  ever  upon  their  horses.  For 
several  days  they  had  been  directing  their  march 
towards  the  lofty  mountain  descried  by  Mr. 
Hunt  and  Mr.  M'Kenzie  on  the  17th  of  August, 
the  height  of  which  rendered  it  a  landmark  over 
a  vast  extent  of  country.  At  first  it  had  ap- 
peared to  them  solitary  and  detached ;  but  as 
they  advanced  towards  it,  it  proved  to  be  the 
principal  summit  of  a  chain  of  mountains.  Day 
by  day  it  varied  in  form,  or  rather  its  lower 
peaks,  and  the  summits  of  others  of  the  chain 
emerged  above  the  clear  horizon,  and  finally  the 
inferior  line  of  hills  which  connected  most  of 
them  rose  to  view.  So  far,  however,  are  objects 
discernible  in  the  pure  atmosphere  of  these  ele- 
vated plains,  that,  from  the  place  where  they  first 
descried  the  main  mountain,  they  had  to  travel 
a  hundred  and  fifty  miles  before  they  reached  its 
base.  Here  they  encamped  on  the  30th  of 
August,  having  come  nearly  four  hundred  miles 
since  leaving  the  Arickara  village* 

The  mountain  which  now  towered  above  them 
was  one  of  the  Bighorn  chain,  bordered  by  a 
river,  of  the  same  name,  and  extending  for  a  long 
distance  rather  east  of  north  and  west  of  soutL. 
It  was  a  part  of  the  great  system  of  granite 
mountains  which  forms  one  of  the  most  impor- 
tant and  striking  features  of  North  America, 
stretching  parallel  to  the  coast  of  the  Pacific 
from  the  Isthmus  of  Panama  almost  to  the  Arc- 
tic Ocean  ;  and  presenting  a  corresponding 
chain  to  that  of  the  Andes  in  the  southern  hemi- 


til* 

lite 
)or- 
ica, 
;ific 

lFC- 

iug 


PEAKS  OF  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAIN 3.    297 

Bphere.  This  vast  range  has  acquired,  from  its 
rugged  and  broken  character  and  its  summits  of 
naked  granite,  the  appellation  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  a  name  by  no  means  distinctive,  as 
all  elevated  ranges  are  rocky.  Among  the  early 
explorers  it  was  known  as  the  range  of  Chippow- 
yan  Mountains,  and  this  lu^ian  name  is  the  one 
it  is  likely  to  retain  in  poetic  usage.  Rising  from 
the  midst  of  vast  plains  and  prairies,  traversing 
several  degrees  of  latitude,  dividing  the  waters 
of  the  Atlantic  and  the  Pacific,  and  seeming  to 
bind  with  diverging  ridges  the  level  regions  on 
its  flanks,  it  has  been  figuratively  termed  the 
backbone  of  the  northern  continent. 

The  Rocky  Mountali  do  not  present  a  range 
of  uniform  elevation,  but  rather  groups  and  oc- 
casionally detached  peaks.  Though  some  of 
these  rise  to  the  region  of  perpetual  snows,  and 
are  upwards  of  eleven  thousand  feet  in  real  alti- 
tude, yet  their  height  from  their  immediate  basis 
13  not  so  great  as  might  be  imagined,  as  they 
swell  up  from  elevated  plains,  several  thousand 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  ocean.  These  plains 
are  often  of  a  desolate  sterility ;  mere  sandy 
wastes,  formed  of  the  detritus  of  the  granite 
heights,  destitute  of  trees  and  herbage,  scorched 
by  the  ardent  and  reflected  rays  of  the  summer's 
sun,  and  in  winter  swept  by  chilling  blasts  from 
the  snow-clad  mountains.  Such  is  a  great  part 
of  that  vast  re(;ion  extending;  north  and  south 
along  the  mountains,  several  hundred  miles  in 
width,  v/hich  has  not  improperly  been  termed  the 
Great  American    Desert.     It   is   a  region  that 


208 


ASTORIA. 


almost  discourages  all  hope  of  cultivation,  aud 
car?  only  be  traversed  with  snfety  by  keeping 
nenr  the  streams  which  intersect  it.  Extensive 
plains  likewise  occur  among  the  higher  regions 
of  the  mountains,  of  considerable  fertility.  In- 
deed, these  lofty  plats  of  table-land  seem  to  form 
a  peculiar  feature  in  the  American  continents. 
Some  occur  among  the  Cordilleras  of  the  Andes, 
where  cities,  and  towns,  and  cultivated  farms  are 
to  be  seen  eight  thousand  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  sea. 

The  Rocky  Mountains,  ps  wie  have  already 
observed,  occur  sometimes  singly  or  in  groups, 
and  occasionally  in  collateral  ridges.  Between 
these  are  deep  valleys,  with  small  streams  wind- 
ing through  them,  which  find  their  way  into  the 
lower  plains,  augmenting  as  they  proceed,  and 
ultimately  discharging  themselves  into  those  vast 
rivers,  which  traverse  the  prairies  like  great  ar- 
teries, and  drain,  the  continent. 

While  the  granitic  summits  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains  are  bleak  and  bare,  many  of  the  in- 
ferior ridges  are  scantily  clothed  with  scrubbed 
pines,  oaks,  cedar,  and  furze.  Various  parts  of 
the  mountains  also  bear  traces  of  volcanic  action. 
Some  of  the  interior  valleys  are  strewed  with 
scoria  and  broken  stones,  evidently  of  volcanic 
origin  ;  the  surrounding  rocks  bear  the  like  "char- 
acter, and  vestiges  of  extinguished  craters  are  to 
be  seen  on  the  elevated  heights. 

We  have  already  noticed  the  superstitious 
feelingG  with  which  the  Indians  regard  the  Black 
Hills ;  but    this    imnieuse   range   of  mountains, 


lii 


TOWNS   OF  THE  GENEROUS  SPIRITS.   29 1 

which  divides  all  that  they  know  of  the  world, 
and  gives  birth  to  such  mighty  rivers,  is  still 
more  an  object  of  awe  and  veneration.  They 
call  it  "  the  crest  of  the  world,"  and  think  that 
Wacondah,  or  the  master  of  life,  as  they  desig- 
nate the  Supreme  Being,  has  his  residence  among 
these  aerial  heights.  The  tribes  on  the  eastern 
prairies  call  them  tlie  mountains  of  the  setting 
sun.  Some  of  them  place  the  "  happy  hunting- 
grounds,"  their  ideal  paradise,  among  the  recesses 
of  these  mountains ;  but  say  that  they  are  invis- 
ible to  living  men.  Here  also  is  the  "  Land  of 
Souls,"  in  which  are  the  "  towns  of  the  free  and 
generous  spirits,"  where  those  who  have  pleased 
the  master  of  life  while  living,  enjoy  after  death 
all  manner  of  delights. 

Wonders  are  told  of  these  mountains  by  the 
distant  tribes,  whose  warriors  or  hunters  have  ever 
wandered  in  their  neighborhood.  It  is  thought 
by  some  that,  after  death,  they  will  have  to 
travel  to  these  mountains  and  ascend  one  of  their 
highest  and  most  rugged  peaks,  among  rocks  and 
snows  and  tumbling  torrents.  After  many 
moons  of  painful  toil  they  will  reach  the  sum- 
mit, from  whence  they  will  have  a  view  over 
the  land  of  souls.  There  they  will  see  the 
happy  hunting-grounds,  with  the  souls  of  the 
brave  and  good  living  in  tents  in  green  meadows, 
by  bright  running  streams,  or  hunting  the  herds 
of  buffalo,  and  elk,  and  deer,  which  have  been 
slain  on  earth.  There,  too,  they  will  see  the 
rillages  or  towns  of  the  free  and  generous  spirits 
brightening  in   the    midst   of  delicious   prairies. 


8 


i 


800 


ASTORIA. 


If  they  have  acquitted  themselves  well  while  liv- 
ing, they  will  be  permitted  to  descend  and  enjoy 
this  happy  country;  if  otherwise  they  will  but 
be  tantalized  with  this  prospect  of  it,  and  then 
hurled  back  from  the  mountain  to  wander  about 
the  sandy  plains,  and  endure  the  eternal  pangs 
of  unsatisfied  thirst  and  hunger. 


CHAPTER   XXVIir. 


HE  travellers  had  now  arrived  the 
vicinity  of  the  mountain  regions  infes- 
ted by  the  Crow  Indians.  These  rest- 
Ibss  marauders,  as  has  already  been  observed, 
are  apt  to  be  continually  on  the  prowl  about  the 
skirts  of  the  mountains;  and  even  when  en- 
camped in  some  deep  and  secluded  glen,  they 
keep  scouts  upon  the  cliffs  and  pro moii tori es, 
who,  unseen  themselves,  can  discern  every  living 
thing  that  moves  over  the  subjacent  plains  and 
valleys.  It  was  not  to  be  expected  that  our 
travellers  could  pass  unseen  through  a  region 
thus  vigilantly  sentineled ;  accordingly,  in  the 
edge  of  the  evening,  not  long  after  they  had 
encamped  at  the  foot  of  the  Bighorn  Sierra,  a 
couple  of  wild-looking  beings,  scantily  clad  in 
skins,  but  well  armed,  and  mounted  on  horses  as 
wild-looking  as  themselves,  were  seen  approach- 
ing with  great  caution  from  among  the  rocks. 
They  might  have  been  mistaken  for  two  of  the 
evil  spirits  of  the  mountains  so  formidable  in  In- 
dian fable. 

Rose  was  immediately  sent  out  to  hold  a  par- 
ley with  them,  and  invite  them  to  the  camp. 
They  proved  to  be  two  scquts  from  the  same 
band  that  had  been  tracked  fot*  some  days  past, 


302 


ASTORIA. 


and  which  was  now  encamped  at  some  distance 
in  tlie  folds  of  the  mountain.  They  were  easily 
prevailed  upon  to  come  to  the  camp,  where  they 
were  well  received,  and,  after  remaining  there 
until  late  in  the  evening,  departed  to  make  a  re- 
port of  all  they  had  seen  and  experienced  to 
their  companions. 

The  following  day  had  scarce  dawned,  when 
a  troop  of  these  wild  mountain  scamperers  came 
galloping  with  whoops  and  yells  into  the  camp, 
bringing  an  invitation  from  their  chief  for  the 
white  men  to  visit  him.  The  tents  were  ac- 
cordingly struck,  the  horses  laden,  and  the  party 
were  soon  on  the  march.  The  Crow  horsemen, 
as  they  escorted  them,  appeared  to  take  pride  in 
showing  off  their  equestrian  skill  and  hardihood ; 
careering  at  full  speed  on  their  half-savage  steeds, 
and  dashing  among  rocks  and  crags,  and  up  and 
down  the  most  rugged  and  dangerous  places  with 
perfect  ease  and  unconcern. 

A  ride  of  sixteen  miles  brought  them,  in  the 
afternoon,  in  sight  of  the  Crow  camp.  It  was 
composed  of  leathern  tents,  pitched  in  a  meadow 
on  the  border  of  a  small  clear  stream  at  the  foot 
of  the  mountain.  A  great  number  of  horses 
were  grazing  in  the  vicinity,  many  of  thera 
doubtless  captured  in  marauding  excursions. 

The  Crow  chieftain  came  forth  to  meet  his 
guests  with  great  professions  of  friendship,  and 
conducted  them  to  his  tents,  pointing  out,  by  the 
way,  a  convenient  place  where  they  might  fix 
their  camp.  No  sooner  had  they  done  so,  than 
Mr.    Hunt   opened   some  of    the    packages   and 


:'J  £. 


IN  THE  CROW  CAMP. 


305 


in  the 
i  wa3 
sadow 
le  foot 
Ihorses 
them 

let  his 

and 

)y  the 

Iht  fix 

than 

and 


made  the  chief  a  present  of  a  scarlet  blanket 
and  a  quantity  of  powder  and  ball ;  he  gave  him 
aKso  some  knives,  trinkets,  and  tobacco  to  be  dis« 
tributed  among  his  warriors,  with  all  which  tiio 
jjrim  potentate  seemed,  for  the  time,  well  pleased. 
As  the  Crows,  however,  were  reputed  to  be  per- 
Hdious  in  the  extreme,  «nd  as  errant  freebooters 
as  the  bird  after  which  they  were  so  worthily 
named ;  and  as  their  general  feelings  towards 
the  whites  were  known  to  be  by  no  means 
friendly,  the  intercourse  with  them  was  conduc- 
ted with  great  circumspection. 

The  following  day  was  passed  in  trading  with 
the  Crows  for  buffalo  robes  and  skins,  and  in 
bartering  galled  and  jaded  horses  for  others  that 
were  in  good  condition.  Some  of  the  men,  also, 
purchased  horses  on  their  own  account,  so  that 
the  number  now  amounted  to  one  hundred  and 
twenty  one,  most  of  them  sound  and  active,  and 
fit  for  mountain  service. 

Their  wants  being  supplied,  they  ceased  all 
further  traffic,  much  to  the  dissatisfaction  of  the 
Crows,  who  became  extremely  urgent  to  con- 
tinue the  trade,  and,  finding  their  importunities 
of  no  avail,  assumed  an  insolent  and  menacing 
tone.  All  this  was  attributed  by  Mr,  Hunt  and 
his  associates  to  the  perfidious  instigations  of 
Rose  the  interpreter,  whom  they  suspected  of  the 
desire  to  foment  ill-will  between  them  and  the 
savages,  for  the  promotion  of  his  nefarious  plans. 
M'Lellan,  with  his  usual  tranchant  mode  of  deal- 
ing out  justice,  resolved  to  shoot  the  desperado 
on  the  spot  in  case  of  any  outbreak.     Nothing 


304 


ASTORIA. 


I 


of  the  kind,  however,  occurred.  The  Crows 
were  probably  daunted  by  the  resolute,  though 
quiet  demeanor  of  the  white  men,  and  the  con- 
Btant  vigilance  and  armed  preparations  which 
they  maintained ;  and  Rose,  if  he  really  still 
harbored  his  knavish  designs,  must  have  per- 
ceived that  they  were  suspected,  and,  if  at- 
tempted to  be  carried  into  effect,  might  bring 
ruin  on  his  own  head. 

The  next  morning,  bright  and  early,  Mr. 
Hunt  proposed  to  resume  his  journeying.  He 
took  a  ceremonious  leave  of  the  Crow  chieflain, 
and  his  vagabond  warriors,  and  according  to  pre- 
vious arrang'^ments,  consigned  to  their  cherishing 
friendship  and  fraternal  adoption,  their  worthy 
confederate  Rose ;  who,  having  figured  among 
the  water  pirates  of  the  Mississippi,  was  well  fit- 
ted to  rise  to  distinction  among  the  land  pirates 
of  the  Rocky  Mountains. 

It  is  proper  to  add,  that  the  ruffian  was  well 
received  among  the  tribe,  and  appeared  to  be 
perfectly  satisfied  with  the  compromise  he  had 
made ;  feeling  much  more  at  his  ease  among  sav- 
ajres  than  among  white  men.  It  is  outcasts 
from  civilization,  fugitives  from  justice,  and 
heartless  desperadoes  of  this  kind  who  sow  the 
seeds  of  enmity  and  bitterness  among  the  unfor- 
tunate tribes  of  the  frontier.  There  is  no  enemv 
so  implacable  against  a  country  or  a  community 
as  one  of  its  own  people  who  has  rendered  him- 
self an  alien  by  his  crimes. 

Right  glad  to  be  delivered  from  this  treacher- 
ous companion,    Mr.    Hunt   pursued    his   course 


UN WEL COME    VISITORS. 


805 


well 
be 
had 
sav- 
;asts 
and 
the 
ifor- 
emy 
nity 
lira- 

Iher- 
lurse 


along  the  skirts  of  the  mountain,  in  a  southern 
direction,  seeking  for  some  practicable  defile  by 
which  he  might  pass  through  it ;  none  such  pre- 
sented, how«3ver,  in  the   course  of  fifteen  miles, 
and  he  enctimped  on  a  small  stream,  still  on  the 
outskirts.      The    green    meadows    which    border 
these  mountain  streams  are  generally  well  stocked 
with    game,    and    the    hunters  killed  several  fat 
elks,  which  supplied  the  camp  with  fresh  meat. 
In  the  evening  the  travellers  were  surprised  by 
an  unwelcome  visit  from  several  Crows  belonging 
to  a  different  band  from  that  which  they  recently 
left,  and  who  said  their  camp    was   among   the 
mountains.     The  consciousnes    of  being  environed 
by  such  dangerous  neighbors,  and  of  being  still 
within  the  range  of  Rose  and  his  fellow  ruffians, 
obliged  the  party  to  be  continually  on  the  alert, 
and    to    maintain    weary    vigils    throughout   the 
night,  lest  they  should  be  robbed  of  their  horses. 
On    the  third  of  September,  finding  that  the 
mountain    still    stretched   onwards,  presenting    a 
continued  barrier,    they   endeavored    to    force    a 
passage  to  the  westward,  but   soon  became    en- 
tangled among  rocks  and  precipices  which  set  all 
their  efforts  at  defiance.      The  mountain  seemed, 
for  the  most  part,  rugged,  bare,  and  sterile ;  yet 
here   and    there  it  was  clothed  with  pines,  and 
with  shrubs  and  flowering  plants,  some  of  which 
were   in    bloom.     In  toiling  among  these  weary 
places,   their    thirst   became    excessive,    for    no 
water  was    to  be  met  with.      Numbers   of  the 
men  wandered  off  into  rocky  dells  and  ravines 

in  ho'ies  of  finding  some  brook  or  fountain ;  some 
20 


80fi 


ASTORIA. 


i 


of  whom  lost  their  way  and  did  not  rejoin  th^ 
main  party. 

After  u  day  of  painful  and  fruitless  scram l>ling, 
Mr.  Hunt  gave  up  the  attempt  to  penetrate  in 
ttiis  direction,  and,  returning  to  the  little  stream 
on  the  skirts  of  the  mountain,  pitched  his  tents 
within  six  miles  of  his  encampment  of  the  pre- 
ceding night.  He  now  ordered  that  signals 
should  be  made  for  the  stragglers  in  quest  of 
water,  but  the  night  passed  away  without  their 
return. 

The  next  morning,  to  their  surprise,  Hose 
made  his  appearance  at  the  camp,  accompanied 
by  some  of  his  Crow  associates.  His  unwelcome 
yisit  revived  their  suspicions ;  but  he  announced 
himself  as  a  messenger  of  good-will  from  the 
chief,  who,  finding  they  had  taken  the  wrong 
road,  had  sent  Rose  and  his  companions  to  guide 
them  to  a  nearer  and  better  one  across  the 
mountain. 

Having  no  choice,  being  themselves  utterly  at 
fault,  they  set  out  under  this  questionable  escort. 
They  had  not  gone  far  before  they  fell  in  with 
the  whole  party  of  Crows,  who,  they  now  found, 
were  going  the  same  road  with  themselves.  The 
two  cavalcades  of  white  and  red  men,  therefore, 
pushed  on  together,  and  presented  a  wild  and 
picturesque  spectacle,  as,  equipped  with  various 
weapons  and  in  various  garbs,  with  trains  of 
pack-horses,  they  wound  in  long  lines  through 
tlie  rugged  defiles,  and  up  and  down  the  crags 
and  steeps  of  the  mountain,      v 

The  travellers  had  again  an  opportunity  to  see 


CHILD  EdUESTRrANS. 


807 


36 


nnd  admire  the  equestrian  habitudes  and  address 
of  this  hard-riding  tribe.  Tliey  were  all  mounted, 
man,  woman,  and  child,  for  the  Crows  have 
horses  in  abundance,  so  that  no  one  goes  on  foot. 
The  children  are  perfect  imps  on  horseback. 
Among  them  was  one  so  young  that  he  could  not 
yet  speak.  He  was  tied  on  a  colt  of  two  years 
old,  but  managed  the  reins  as  if  by  instinct,  and 
plied  the  whip  with  true  Indian  prodigality.  Mr. 
Hunt  inquired  the  age  of  this  infant  jockey,  and 
was  answered  that  "  he  had  seen  two  winters.** 

This  is  almost  realizing  the  fable  of  the  cen- 
taurs ;  nor  can  we  wonder  at  the  equestrian 
adroitness  of  these  savages,  who  are  thus  in  a 
manner  cradled  in  the  saddle,  and  become  in  in- 
fancy almost  identified  with  the  animal  they  be- 
stride. 

The  mountain  defiles  were  exceedingly  rough 
and  broken,  and  the  travelling  painful  to  the  bur- 
dened horses.  The  party,  therefore,  proceeded  but 
slowly,  and  were  gradually  left  behind  by  the 
band  of  Crows,  who  had  taken  the  lead.  It  is 
more  than  probable  that  Mr.  Hunt  loitered  in 
his  course,  to  get  rid  of  such  doubtful  fellow- 
travellers.  Certain  it  is  that  he  felt  a  sensation 
of  relief  as  he  saw  the  whole  crew,  the  renegade 
Rose  and  all,  disappear  among  the  windings  of  the 
mountain,  and  heard  the  last  yelp  of  the  savages 
die  away  in  the  distance. 

When  they  were  fairly  out  of  sight,  and  out  of 
hearing,  he  encamped  on  the  head  waters  of  the 
little  stream  of  the  preceding  day,  having  come 
about  sixteen  miles.     Here  he  remained  all  the 


808 


ASTORIA, 


succeeding  day,  as  well  to  give  time  for  the  Crows 
to  get  ill  the  advance,  as  for  the  stragglers,  who 
had  wandered  away  in  quest  of  water  two  days 
previously,  to  rejoin  the  camp.  Indeed,  con- 
siderable uneasiness  began  to  be  felt  concerning 
these  men,  lest  they  should  become  utterly 
bewildered  in  the  defiles  of  the  mountains,  or 
should  fall  into  the  hands  of  some  marauding 
band  of  savages.  Some  of  the  most  experienced 
hunters  were  sent  in  search  of  them  ;  others,  in 
the  meantime,  employed  themselves  in  hunting. 
The  narrow  valley  in  which  they  encamped  being 
watered  by  a  running  stream,  yielded  fresh  pas- 
turage, and  though  in  the  heart  of  the  Bighorn 
Mountains,  was  well  stocked  with  buffalo.  Sev- 
eral of  these  were  killed,  as  also  a  grizzly  bear. 
In  the  evening,  to  the  satisfaction  of  all  parties, 
the  stragglers  made  their  appearance,  and  provis- 
ions being  in  abundance,  there  was  hearty  good 
cheer  in  the  camp. 


(^ 


CHAPTER  XXIX. 


|ESUMING  their  course  on  the  following 
morning,  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  companions 
continued  on  westward  through  a  rugged 
region  of  hills  and  rocks,  but  diversified  in  many 
places  by  grassy  little  glens,  with  springs  of  wa- 
ter, bright  sparkling  brooks,  clumps  of  pine  trees, 
and  a  profusion  of  flowering  plants,  which  were 
in  bloom,  although  the  weather  was  froisty. 
These  beautiful  and  verdant  recesses,  running 
through  and  softening  the  rugged  mountains^ 
were  cheering  and  refreshing  to  the  wayworn 
travellers. 

In  the  course  of  the  morning,  as  they  were 
entangled  in  a  defile,  they  beheld  a  small  band 
of  savages,  as  wild-looking  as  the  surrounding 
scenery,  who  reconnoitred  them  warily  from  the 
rocks  before  they  ventured  to  advance.  Some  of 
them  were  mounted  on  horses  rudely  caparisoned 
with  bridles  or  halters  of  buffalo  hide,  one  end 
trailing  after  them  on  the  ground.  They  proved 
to  be  a  mixed  party  of  Flatheads  and  Shoshonies, 
or  Snakes ;  and  as  these  tribes  will  be  frequently 
mentioned  in  the  course  of  this  work,  we  shall 
give  a  few  introductory  particulars  concerning 
them. 

The  Flatheads  in  question  are  not  to  be  con 


510 


ASTORIA. 


founded  with  those  of  the  name  who  dwell  about 
the  lower  waters  of  the  Columbia ;  neither  do 
they  flatten  their  heads,  as  the  others  do.  They 
inhabit  the  banks  of  a  river  on  the  west  side  of 
the  mountains,  and  are  described  as  simple,  hon- 
est, and  hospitable.  Like  all  people  of  similar 
character,  whether  civilized  or  savage,  tbey  are 
prone  to  be  imposed  upon  ;  and  are  especially 
maltreated  by  the  ruthless  Blackfeet,  who  harass 
them  in  their  villages,  steal  their  horses  by  night, 
or  openly  carry  them  off  in  the  face  of  day,  with- 
out provoking  pursuit  or  retaliation. 

The  Slioshonies  are  a  branch  of  the  once  pow- 
erful and  prosperous  tribe  of  the  Snakes,  who 
possessed  a  glorious  hunting  country  about  the 
upper  forks  of  the  Missouri,  abounding  in  beaver 
and  buffalo.  Their  hunting  ground  was  occa- 
sionally invaded  by  the  Blackfeet,  but  the  Snakes 
battled  bravely  for  their  domains,  and  a  long  and 
bloody  feud  existed,  with  variable  success.  At 
length  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  extending 
their  trade  into  the  interior,  had  dealings  with 
the  Blackfeet,  who  were  nearest  to  them,  and 
supplied  them  with  fire-arms.  The  Snakes,  who 
occasionally  traded  with  the  Spaniards,  endeav- 
ored, but  in  vain,  to  obtain  similar  weapons  ;  the 
Spanish  traders  w^isely  refused  to  arm  them  so 
formidably.  The  Blackfeet  had  now  a  vast  ad- 
vantage, and  soon  dispossessed  the  poor  Snakes 
of  their  favorite  hunting  grounds,  their  land  of 
plenty,  and  drove  them  from  place  to  place,  until 
they  were  fain  to  take  refuge  in  the  wildest  and 
most  desolate  recesses  of  the  Rocky  Mountains. 


DIGGERS  AND  8H0SH0NIE8. 


311 


la. 


Even  here  they  are  subject  to  occasional  visits 
from  their  implacable  foes,  as  long  as  they  have 
horses,  or  any  other  property  to  tempt  the  plun- 
derer. Thus  by  degrees  the  Snakes  have  be- 
come a  scattered,  brokei.-spirited,  impoverished 
people ;  keeping  about  lonely  rivers  and  moun- 
tain streams,  and  subsisting  chiefly  upon  fish. 
Such  of  them  as  still  possess  horses,  and  occa- 
sionally figure  as  hunters,  are  called  Shoshonies  ; 
but  there  is  another  class,  the  most  abject  and 
forlorn,  who  are  called  Shuckers,  or  more  com- 
monly Diggers  and  Root  Eaters.  These  are  a 
shy,  secret,  solitary  race,  who  keep  in  the  most 
retired  parts  of  ihe  mountains,  lurking  like 
gnomes  in  caverns  and  clefts  of  the  rocks,  and 
subsisting  in  a  great  measure  on  the  roots  of  the 
earth.  Sometimes,  in  passing  through  a  solitary 
mountain  valley,  the  traveller  comes  perchance 
upon  the  bleeding  carcass  of  a  deer  or  bufiUlo 
that  has  just  been  slain.  He  looks  round  in 
vain  for  the  hunter ;  the  whole  landscape  is  life- 
less and  deserted :  at  length  he  perceives  a 
thread  of  smoke,  curling  up  from  among  the 
crags  and  cliffs,  and  scrambling  to  the  place, 
finds  some  forlorn  and  skulking  brood  of  Diggers, 
terrified  at  being  discovered. 

The  Shoshonies,  however,  who,  as  has  been 
observed,  have  still  "  horse  to  ride  and  weapon 
to  wear,"  are  somewhat  bolder  in  their  spirit, 
and  more  open  and  wide  in  thefr  wanderings.  In 
the  autumn,  when  salmon  disappear  from  the 
rivers,  and  hunger  begins  to  pinch,  they  even 
venture  down  into  their  ancient  hunting  grounds, 


312 


ASTORIA. 


to  tnake  a  foray  among  the  buffaloes.  In  this 
perilous  enterprise  they  are  occasionally  joined 
by  the  Flatheads,  the  persecutions  of  the  Black- 
feet  haying  produced  a  close  alliance  and  coop- 
eration between  these  luckless  and  maltreated 
tribes.  Still,  notwithstanding  their  united  force^ 
every  step  they  take  within  the  debatable 
ground,  is  taken  in  fear  and  trembling,  and  with 
the  utknost  precaution :  and  an  Indian  trader 
assures  us  that  he  has  seen  at  least  five  hun- 
dred of  them,  armed  and  equipped  for  action^ 
and  keeping  watch  upon  the  hill  tops,  while 
about  fifty  were  hunting  in  the  prairie.  Their 
excursions  are  brief  and  hurried  ;  as  soon  as 
they  have  collected  and  jerked  sufficient  buffalo 
meat  for  winter  provisions^  they  pack  their  horses, 
abandon  the  dangerous  hunting  grounds,  and 
hasten  back  to  the  mountains,  happy  if  they 
have  not  the  terrible  Blackfeet  rattling  afler 
them. 

Such  a  confederate  band  of  Shoshonies  and 
Flatheads  was  the  one  met  by  our  travellers. 
It  was  bound  on  a  visit  to  the  Arrapahoes,  a  tribe 
inhabiting  the  banks  of  the  Nebraska.  They 
were  armed  to  the  best  of  their  scanty  means^ 
and  some  of  the  Shoshonies  had  bucklers  of 
buffalo  hide,  adorned  with  feathers  and  leathern 
fringes,  and  which  have  a  charmed  virtue  in 
their  eyes,  from  having  been  prepared,  with  mys- 
tic ceremonies,  by  their  conjurers. 

In  company  with  this  wandering  band  our 
travellers  proceeded  all  day.  In  the  evening 
they  encamped  near  to  each  other  in  a  defile  of 


•Bp- 


I" 


WYM)  BIVER. 


313 


)U1^ 

lint; 
of 


the  mountains,  on  the  borders  of  a  stream  run- 
ning north,  and  falling  into  Bighorn  River.  In 
the  vicinity  of  the  camp,  they  found  gooseber- 
ries, strawberries,  and  currants,  in  great  abund- 
ance. The  defile  bore  traces  of  having  been 
a  thoroughfare  for  countless  herds  of  buffaloes, 
though  not  one  was  to  be  seen.  The  hunters 
succeeded  in  killing  an  elk  and  several  black- 
tailed  deer. 

They  were  now  in  the  bosom  of  the  second 
Bighorn  ridge,  with  another  lofty  and  snow- 
crowned  mountain  full  in  view  to  the  west. 
Fifteen  miles  of  western  course  brought  them, 
on  the  following  day,  down  into  an  intervening 
plain,  well  stocked  with  buffalo.  Here  the 
Snakes  and  Flatheads  joined  with  the  white 
hunters  in  a  successful  hunt,  that  soon  filled  the 
eamp  with  provisions. 

On  the  morning  of  the  9  th  of  September, 
the  travellers  parted  company  with  their  Indian 
friends,  and  continued  on  their  course  to  the  west. 
A  march  of  thirty  miles  brought  them,  in  the 
evening,  to  the  banks  of  a  rapid  and  beauti- 
fully clear  stream  about  a  hundred  yards  wide. 
It  is  the  north  fork  or  branch  of  the  Bighorn 
River,  but  bears  its  peculiar  name  of  the  Wind 
River,  from  being  subject  in  the  winter  season  to 
a  continued  blast  which  sweeps  its  banks  and 
prevents  the  snow  from  lying  on  them.  This 
blast  is  said  to  be  caused  by  a  narrow  gap  or 
funnel  in  tlie  mountains,  through  which  the  rivei? 
forces  its  way  between  perpendicular  precipices^ 
resembling  cut  rocks. 


814 


A8T0RIA. 


This  river  gives  its  name  to  a  whole  range  of 
mountains  consisting  of  three  parallel  chains^ 
eighty  miles  in  length,  and  about  twenty  or 
twenty-five  broad.  One  of  its  peaks  is  probably 
fifteen  thousand  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea, 
being  one  of  the  highest  of  the  Rocky  Sierra. 
These  mountains  give  rise,  not  merely  to  the 
Wind  or  Bighorn  River,  but  to  several  branches 
of  the  Yellowstone  and  the  Missouri  on  the  east, 
and  of  the  Columbia  and  Colorado  on  the  west ; 
thus  dividing  the  sources  of  these  mighty 
streams. 

For  five  succeeding  days,  Mr.  Hunt  and  his 
party  continued  up  the  course  of  the  Wind  River, 
to  the  distance  of  about  eighty  miles,  crossing 
and  recrossing  it,  according  to  its  windings,  and 
the  nature  of  its  banks  ;  sometimes  passing 
through  valleys,  at  other  times  scrambling  over 
rocks  and  hills.  The  country  in  general  was 
destitute  of  trees,  but  they  passed  through  groves 
of  wormwood,  eight  »»  d  ten  feet  in  height,  which 
they  used  occasionally  for  fuel,  and  they  met 
with  large  quantities  of  wild  flax. 

The  mountains  were  destitute  of  game  ;  they 
came  in  sight  of  two  grizzly  bears,  but  could  not 
get  near  enough  for  a  shot ;  provisions,  therefore, 
began  to  be  scanty.  They  saw  large  flights  of 
the  kind  of  thrush  commonly  called  the  robin, 
and  many  smaller  birds  of  migratory  species ; 
but  the  hills  in  general  appeared  lonely  and  with 
few  sififns  of  animal  life.  On  the  evenin":  of  the 
14th  September,  they  encjiniped  on  the  forks  of 


the  Wind  or  Bighorn   river. 


The   largest  of 


LANDMARKS   OF   THE  COLUMBIA.      315 


rith 

the 

of 

of 


these  forks  came  from  the  range  of  Wind  Bivei 
Mountains. 

The  hunters  who  served  as  guides  to  the  party 
in  this  part  of  their  route,  had  assured  Mr.  Hunt 
that,  by  following  up  Wind  River,  and  crossing  a 
single  mountain  ridge,  he  would  come  upon  the 
head  waters  of  tiie  Columbia.  This  scarcity  ol 
game,  however,  which  already  had  been  felt  to  a 
pinching  degree,  and  which  threatened  them  v/ith 
famine  amon^^  the  sterile  heischts  which  lay  be- 
fore  them,  admonished  them  to  change  their 
course.  It  was  determined,  therefore,  to  make 
for  a  stream,  which  they  were  informed  passed 
the  neighboring  mountains,  to  the  south  of  west, 
on  the  grassy  banks  of  which  it  was  probable 
they  would  meet  with  buffalo.  Accordingly, 
about  three  o'clock  on  the  following  day,  meeting 
with  a  beaten  Indian  road  which  led  in  the 
proper  direction,  they  struck  into  it,  turning  their 
backs  upon  Wind  River. 

In  the  course  of  the  day,  they  came  to  a 
height  that  commanded  an  almost  boundless 
prospect.  Here  one  of  the  guides  paused,  and, 
after  considering  the  vast  landscape  attentively, 
pointed  to  three  mountain  peaks  glistening  with 
snow,  which  rose,  he  said,  above  a  fork  of  Co- 
lumbia River.  They  were  hailed  by  the  trav- 
ellers with  that  joy  with  which  a  beacon  on  a 
sea-shore  is  hailed  by  mariners  after  a  long  and 
dangerous  voyage.  It  is  true  there  was  many  a 
weary  league  to  be  traversed  before  they  should 
reach  these  landmarks,  for,  allowing^  for  their 
evident  height  and  the  extreme  transparency  of 


816 


ASTORIA. 


the  atmosphere,  they  could  not  be  much  less  than 
a  hundred  miles  distant.  Even  after  reaching 
them,  there  would  yet  remain  hundreas  of  miles 
of  their  journey  to  be  accomplished.  All  these 
matters  were  forgotten  in  the  joy  at  seeing  the 
first  landmarks  of  the  Columbia,  that  riyer  which 
formed  the  bourne  of  the  expedition.  These  re- 
markable peaks  were  known  as  the  Tetons ;  as 
guiding  points  for  many  days,  to  Mr.  Hunt,  he 
gave  them  the  name  of  the  Pilot  Knobs. 

The  travellers  continued  their  course  to  the 
south  of  west  for  about  forty  miles,  through  a 
region  so  elevated  thpt  patches  of  snow  lay  on 
the  highest  summits  and  on  the  northern  decliv- 
ities. At  length  they  came  to  the  desired  stream, 
the  object  of  their  search,  the  waters  of  which 
flowed  to  the  v  ist.  It  was,  in  fact,  a  branch  of 
the  Colorado,  which  falls  into  the  Gulf  of  Cali- 
fornia, and  had  received  from  the  hunters  the 
name  of  Spanish  River,  from  information  given 
by  the  Indians  that  Spaniards  resided  upon  its 
lower  waters,  v 

The  aspect  of  iihis  river  and  its  vicinity  was 
cheering  to  the  wayworn  and  hungry  travellers. 
Its  banks  were  green,  and  there  were  grassy 
valleys  running  from  it  in  various  directions, 
into  the  heart  of  the  rugged  mountains,  with 
herds  of  buffalo  quietly  grazing.  The  hunters 
sallied  forth  with  keen  alacrity,  and  soon  re- 
turned laden  with  provisions. 

In  this  part  of  the  mountains  Mr.  Hunt  met 
with  three  different  kinds  of  gooseberries.  The 


tiYfm 


WILD  FRUITS  AND  FOWL. 


817 


let 
the 


common  purple,  on  a  low  and  very  thorny  bush  ; 
a  yellow  kind,  of  an  excellent  flavor,  growing  on 
a  stock  free  from  thorns  ;  and  a  deep  purple,  of 
the  size  and  taste  of  our  winter  grape,  with  a 
thorny  stalk.  There  were  also  three  kinds  of 
currants,  one  very  large  and  well  tasted,  of  a 
purple  color,  and  growing  on  a  bush  eight  or 
nine  feet  high.  Another  of  a  yellow  color,  and 
of  the  size  and  taste  of  the  large  red  currant, 
the  bush  four  or  five  feet  high ;  and  the  third  a 
beautiful  scarlet,  resembling  the  strawberry  in 
sweetness,  though  rather  insipid,  and  growing  on 
a  low  bush. 

On  the  17th  the^'  continued  down  the  course 
of  the  river,  making  fifteen  miles  to  the  south- 
west. The  river  abounded  with  geese  and  ducks, 
and  there  were  signs  of  its  being  inhabited  by 
beaver  and  otters :  indeed  they  were  now  ap- 
proaching regions  where  these  animals,  the  great 
objects  of  the  fur  trade,  are  said  to  abound. 
They  encamped  for  the  night  opposite  the  end 
of  a  mountain  in  the  west,  which  was  proba- 
bly the  last  chain  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  On 
the  following  morning  they  abandoned  the  main 
course  of  Spanish  River,  and  taking  a  northwest 
direction  tor  eight  miles,  came  upon  one  of  its 
little  tributaries,  issuing  out  of  the  bosom  of  the 
mountains,  and  running  through  green  meadows, 
yielding  pasturage  to  herds  of  buffalo.  As  these 
were  probably  the  last  of  that  animal  they  would 
meet  with,  they  encamped  on  the  grassy  banks 
of  the  river,  determining  to  spend  several  days 
lu  hunting,  so   as  to  be  able  to  jerk  sufficient 


818 


ASTORIA, 


meal  to  supply  them  until  they  should  reach  th« 
waters  of  the  Columbia,  where  they  trusted  tc 
find  fish  enough  for  their  support.  A  little  re 
pose,  too,  was  necessary  for  both  men  and  horses, 
after  their  rugged  and  incessant  marching ;  hav- 
ing in  the  course  of  the  last  seventeen  days 
traversed  two  hundred  and  sixty  miles  of  rough, 
And  in  many  parts  sterile,  mountain  country. 


CHAPTER  XXX. 

IVE  days  were  passed  by  Mr.  Hunt  and 
his  companions  in  the  fresh  meadows 
watered  by  the  bright  little  mountain 
stream.  The  hunters  made  great  havoc  among 
the  buffaloes,  and  brought  in  quantities  of  meat ; 
the  voyageurs  busied  themselves  about  the  fires, 
roasting  and  stewing  for  present  purposes,  or  dry- 
ing provisions  for  the  journey ;  the  pack-horses, 
eased  of  their  burdens,  rolled  on  the  grass,  or 
grazed  at  large  about  the  ample  pastures  ;  those 
of  the  party  who  had  no  call  upon  their  services, 
indulged  in  the  luxury  of  perfect  relaxation,  and 
the  camp  presented  a  picture  of  rude  feasting 
and  revelry,  of  mingled  bustle  and  repose,  char- 
acteristic of  a  halt  in  a  fine  hunting  country.  In 
the  course  of  one  of  their  excursions,  some  of 
the  men  came  in  sight  of  a  small  party  of  In- 
dians, who  mstantly  fled  in  great  apparent  con- 
sternation. They  immediately  returned  to  camp 
with  the  intelligence :  upon  which  Mr.  Hunt  and 
four  others  flung  themselves  upon  their  horses, 
and  sallied  forth  to  reconnoitre.  After  riding 
for  about  eight  miles,  they  came  upon  a  wild 
mountain  scene.  A  lonely  green  valley  stretched 
before  them,  surrounded  by  ruggea  heights.  A 
h«rd  of  buffalo  were  careering  madly  through  it, 


S20 


ASTORIA. 


with  a  troop  of  savage  horsemen  in  foil  chase, 
plying  them  with  their  bows  and  arrows.  The 
appearance  of  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  companions  put 
an  abrupt  end  to  the  hunt ;  the  buffalo  scuttled 
off  in  one  direction,  while  the  Indians  plied  theii 
lashes  and  galloped  off  in  another,  as  fast  as  theii 
steeds  could  carry  them.  Mr.  Hunt  gave  chase  ; 
there  was  a  sharp  scamper,  though  of  short  con- 
tinuance. Two  young  Indians,  who  were  indif- 
tierently  mounted,  were  soon  overtaken.  They 
were  terribly  frightened,  and  evidently  gave  them- 
selves up  for  lost.  By  degrees  their  fears  were 
allayed  by  kind  treatment ;  but  they  continued  to 
regard  the  strangers  with  a  mixture  of  awe  and 
wonder,  for  it  was  the  first  time  in  their  lives 
they  had  ever  seen  a  white  man. 

They  belonged  to  a  party  of  Snakes  who  had 
come  across  the  mountains  on  their  autumnal 
hunting  excursion  to  provide  buffalo  meat  for  the 
winter.  Being  persuaded  of  the  peaceable  in- 
tentions of  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  companions,  they 
willingly  conducted  them  to  their  camp.  It  was 
pitched  in  a  narrow  valley  on  the  margin  of  a 
stream.  The  tents  were  of  dressed  skins,  some 
of  them  fantastically  painted ;  with  horses  graz- 
ing about  them.  The  approach  of  the  party 
caused  a  transient  alarm  in  the  camp,  for  these 
poor  Indians  were  ever  on  the  look-out  for  cruel 
foes.  No  sooner,  however,  did  they  recognize 
the  garb  and  complexion  of  their  visitors,  than 
their  apprehensions  were  changed  into  joy;  for 
some  of  them  had  dealt  with  white  men,  and 
knew  them  to  be  friendly,  and  to  abound  with 


ta.iiwuil!«teu«..i!!iii.  'tm^w^m 


-AMU 


HEAD    WATERS   OF   THE  COLUMBIA.     821 


le  m- 
they 

It  was 
of  a 
some 
graz- 
party 
these 
cruel 


yj 


and 
with 


aiticles  of  singular  value.  They  welcomed  them, 
therefore,  to  their  tents,  set  food  before  them; 
and  entertained  them  to  the  best  of  their  power. 

They  had  been  successful  in  their  hunt,  and 
their  catnp  was  full  of  jerked  buffalo  meat,  all 
of  the  choicest  kind,  and  extremely  £a,t.  Mr. 
Hunt  purchased  enough  of  them,  in  addition  to 
what  had  been  killed  and  cured  hy  his  own 
hunters,  to  load  all  the  horses  excepting  those 
reserved  for  the  partners  and  the  wife  of  Pierre 
Dorion.  He  found,  also,  a  few  beaver  skins  in 
their  camp,  for  which  he  paid  liberally,  as  an  in- 
ducement to  them  to  hunt  for  more ;  informing 
them  that  some  of  his  party  intended  to  live 
among  the  mountains,  and  trade  with  the  native 
hunters  for  their  peltries.  The  poor  Snakes  soon 
comprehended  the  advantages  thus  held  out  to 
them,  and  promMed  to  exert  themselves  to  pro- 
cure a  quantity  of  beaver  skins  for  future  traffic 

Being  now  well  supplied  with  provisions,  Mr. 
Hunt  broke  up  his  encampment  on  the  24th  of 
September,  and  continued  on  to  the  west.  A 
march  of  fifteen  miles,  over  a  mountain  ridge, 
brought  them  to  a  stream  about  fifty  feet  in 
width,  which  Hoback,  one  of  their  guides,  who 
had  trapped  about  the  neighborhood  when  in  the 
service  of  Mr.  Henry,  recognized  for  one  of  the 
head  waters  of  the  Columbia.  The  travellers 
bailed  it  with  delight,  as  the  first  stream  they  had 
encountered  tending  toward  their  point  of  desti- 
nation. They  kept  along  it  for  two  days,  during 
which,  from  the  contribution  of  many  rills  and 

brooks,  it  gradually  swelled  into  a  small  river- 
21 


322 


ASTORIA. 


As  it  meandered  among  rocks  and  precipices, 
they  were  frequently  obliged  to  ford  it,  and  such 
was  its  rapidity,  that  the  men  were  often  in  dan- 
ger of  being  swept  away.  Sometimes  the  banks 
advanced  so  dose  upon  the  river,  that  tjiey  were 
obliged  to  scramble  up  and  down  their  rugged 
[promontories,  or  to  skirt  along  their  bases  where 
there  was  sdiarce  a  foothold.  Their  horses  had 
dangerous  falls  in  some  of  these  passes.  One  of 
them  rolled,  with  his  load,  nearly  two  hundred 
feet  down  hill  into  the  river,  but  without  receiv- 
ing any  injury.  At  length  they  emerged  from 
these  stupendous  defiles,  and  continued  for  sev- 
eral miles  along  the  bank  of  Hoback's  River, 
through  one  of  the  stern  mountain  valleys. 
Here  it  was  joined  by  a  river  of  greater  mag- 
nitude and  swifter  current,  and  their  united 
waters  swept  off  through  the  valley  in  one  im- 
petuous stream,  which,  from  its  rapidity  and  tur- 
bulence, had  received  the  name  of  the  Mad 
River.  At  the  confluence  of  these  streams  the 
travellers  encamped.  An  important  point  in 
their  arduous  journey  had  been  attained,  a  few 
miles  from  their  camp  rose  the  three  vast  snowy 
peaks  called  the  Teton  s,  or  the  Pilot  Knobs,  the 
great  landmarks  of  the  Columbia,  by  which  they 
had  shaped  their  course  through  this  mountain, 
wilderness.  By  their  feet  flowed  the  rapid  cur-j 
rent  of  Mad  River,  a  stream  ample  enough  to 
admit  of  the  navigation  of  canoes,  and  down 
which  they  might  possibly  be  able  to  steer  their 
course  to  the  main  body  of  the  Columbia.  The 
Canaoian  voyageurs  rejoiced  at  the  idea  of  once 


i 


PLEASING  EXPECTATIONS, 


823 


more  launching  themselves  upon  their  &yorite 
element ;  of  exchanging  their  horses  for  canoes^ 
and  of  gliding  down  the  bosoms  of  riyers,  in- 
stead of  scrambling  over  the  backs  of  mountains. 
Others  of  the  party,  also,  inexperienced  in  this 
kind  of  travelling,  considered  their  toils  an<l 
troubles  as  drawing  to  a  close.  They  had  con- 
(]uered  the  chief  difficulties  of  this  great  rocky 
barrier,  and  now  flattered  themselves  with  the 
hope  of  an  easy  downward  course  for  the  rest  of 
their  journey.  Little  did  they  dream  of  thi 
hardships  and  perils  by  land  and  water,  which 
were  yet  to  be  encountered  in  the  frightful  wil- 
derness that  intervened  between  them  and  the 
gliores  of  the  PadficI 


[ad 


m 


|wy 

the 

ley 

lin, 

lur-l 

to 

m 


he 


CHAPTER  XXXI. 


N  the  banks  of  Mad  River  Mr.  Hunt 
held  a  consultation  with  the  other  part- 
ners as  to  their  future  movements.  The 
wild  and  impetuous  current  of  the  river  rendered 
him  doubtful  whether  it  might  not  abound  with 
impediments  lower  down,  sufficient  to  render 
the  navigation  of  it  slow  and  perilous,  if  not  im- 
practicable The  hunters  who  had  acted  as 
guides,  knew  nothing  of  the  character  of  the 
river  below ;  what  rocks,  and  shoals,  and  rapids 
might  obstruct  it,  or  through  what  mountains  and 
deserts  it  might  pass.  Should  they  then  abandon 
their  horses,  cast  themselves  loose  in  fragile  barks 
upon  this  wild,  doubtful,  and  unknown  river  ;  or 
should  they  continue  their  more  toilsome  and 
tedious,  but  perhaps  more  certain  wayfaring  by 
land? 

The  vote,  as  might  have  been  expected,  was 
almost  unanimous  for  embarkation ;  for  when 
men  are  in  difficulties  every  change  seems  to  be 
for  the  better.  The  difficulty  now  was  to  find 
timber  of  sufficient  size  for  the  construction  ot 
canoes,  the  trees  in  these  high  mountain  regions 
being  chiefly  a  scrubbed  growth  of  pines  and 
cedars,  aspens,  haws,  and  service-berries,  and  a 
small  kind  of  cotton-tree,  with  a  leaf  resembling 


TRAPPERS  DETACHED. 


825 


iwa8 
rhen 
be 
[find 
ot 
ions 
land 
d  a 
lUng 


that  of  the  willow.  There  was  a  species  of  larg^ 
fir,  but  so  full  of  knots  as  to  endanger  the  axe 
in  hewing  it.  After  searching  for  some  time,  <« 
growth  of  timber,  of  sufficient  size,  was  found 
lower  down  the  river,  whereupon  the  encamp- 
ment was  moved  to  the  vicinity. 

The  men  were  now  set  to  work  to  fell  trees, 
and  the  mountains  echoed  to  the  unwonted  sound 
of  their  axes.  While  preparations  were  thus 
going  on  for  a  voyage  down  the  river,  Mr.  Hunt, 
who  still  entertained  doubts  of  its  practicability, 
dispatched  an  exploring  party,  consisting  of  John 
Reed,  the  clerk,  John  Day,  the  hunter,  and 
Pierre  Dorion,  the  interpreter,  with  orders  to 
proceed  several  days'  march  along  Uie  stream, 
and  notice  its  course  and  character. 

After  their  departure,  Mr.  Hunt  turned  his 
thoughts  to  another  object  of  importance.  He 
had  now  arrived  at  the  head  waters  of  the  Colum- 
bia, which  were  among  the  main  points  embraced 
by  the  enterprise  of  Mr.  Astor.  These  upper 
streams  were  reputed  to  abound  in  beaver,  and 
had  as  yet  been  unmolested  by  the  white  trapper. 
The  numerous  signs  of  beaver  met  with  during 
the  recent  search  for  timber,  gave  evidence  that 
the  neighborhoo<i»was  a  good  "  trapping  ground." 
Here,  then,  it  was  proper  to  begin  to  cast  loose 
'liose  leashes  of  hardy  trappers  that  are  detached 
from  trading  parties  in  the  very  heart  of  the 
wilderness.  The  men  detached  in  the  present 
instance  were  Alexander  Carson,  Louis  St 
Michel,  Pierre  Detay^,  and  Pierre  Delaunay. 
Trappers  generally  go  in  pairs,  that  they  may 


I 


;  M 


326 


A8TCRIA. 


afsist,  protect,  and  comtort  each  other  in  their 
lonely  and  perilous  occupations.  Thus  Carson 
and  St.  Michel  formed  one  couple,  and  Detay^ 
and  Delaunay  another.  They  were  fitted  out 
with  traps,  arms,  ammunition,  horses,  and  every 
other  requisite,  and  were  to  trap  upon  the  upper 
part  of  Mad  River,  and  upon  the  neighboring 
streams  of  the  mountains.  This  would  probably 
occupy  them  for  some  months  ;  and,  when  they 
should  have  collected  a  sufiicient  quantity  of 
peltries,  they  were  to  pack  them  upon  their 
horses  and  make  the  best  of  their  way  to  the 
mouth  of  Columbia  River,  or  to  any  intermediate 
post  which  might  be  established  by  the  company. 
They  took  leave  of  their  comrades  and  started 
off  on  their  several  courses  with  stout  hearts  and 
cheerful  countenances;  though  these  lonely  cruis- 
ings  into  a  wild  and  hostile  wilderness  seem  to 
the  uninitiated  equivalent  to  being  cast  adrift  in 
the  ship's  yawl  in  the  midst  of  the  ocean. 

Of  the  perils  that  attend  the  lonely  trapper, 
the  reader  will  have  sufficient  proof,  when  he 
comes,  in  the  after  part  of  this  work,  to  learn  the 
hard  fortunes  of  these  poor  fellows  in  the  course 
of  their  wild  peregrinations. 

The  trappers  had  not  long  departed,  when  two 
Snake  Indians  wandered  into  the  camp.  When 
they  perceived  that  the  strangers  were  fabricating 
eiinoes,  they  shook  their  heads  and  gave  them  to 
understand  that  the  river  was  not  navigable. 
Their  information,  however,  was  scoffed  at  by 
some  of  the  party,  who  were  obstinately  bent  on 
embarkation,  but  was  confirmed  by  the  exploring 


MAD  RIVER  ABANDONED. 


827 


two 
hen 
tiug 


party,  who  returned  after  several  days*  absencoi 
They  had  kept  al'-ng  the  river  with  great  difficulty 
for  two  days,  and  found  it  a  narrow,  crooked, 
turbulent  stream,  confined  in  a  rocky  channel, 
with  many  rapids,  and  occasionally  overhung 
with  precipices.  From  the  summit  of  one  of 
these  they  had  caught  a  bird's-eye  view  of  its 
boisterous  career  for  a  great  distance  through 
the  heart  of  the  mountain,  with  impending  rocks 
and  cliffs.  Satisfied  from  this  view  that  it  was 
useless  to  follow  its  course,  either  by  land  or 
water,  they  had  given  up  all  further  investigation. 

These  concurring  reports  determined  Mr.  Hunt 
to  abandon  Mad  River,  and  seek  some  more 
navigable  stream.  This  determination  was  con- 
curred in  by  all  his  associates  excepting  Mr. 
Miller,  who  had  become  impatient  of  the  fatigue 
of  land  travel,  and  was  for  immediate  embarka- 
tion at  all  hazards.  This  gentleman  had  been  in 
a  gloomy  and  irritated  state  of  mind  for  some 
time  past,  being  troubled  virith  a  bodily  malady 
that  rendered  travelling  on  horseback  extremely 
irksome  to  him,  and  being,  moreover,  discontented 
with  having  a  smaller  share  in  the  expedition 
than  his  comrades.  His  unreasonable  objections 
to  a  further  march  by  land  were  overruled,  and 
the  party  prepared  to  decamp. 

Robinson,  Hoback,  and  Rezner,  the  three  hun- 
ters who  had  hitherto  served  as  guides  among 
the  mountauis,  now  stepped  forward,  and  advised 
Mr.  Hunt  to  make  for  the  post  established  during 
the  preceding  year  by  Mr.  Henry,  of  the  Missouri 
Fur  Company.     They  had  been  with  JVIr.  Henry, 


.; . 


828 


ASTORIA. 


and,  as  far  as  they  could  judge  by  the  neighboiing 
landmarks,  his  post  could  not  be  very  far  otf. 
They  presumed  there  could  be  but  one  intervening 
ridge  of  mountains,  wb:ch  might  be  passed  with- 
out any  great  '^c  ; .  Henry's  post,  or  fort, 
was  on  an  uppe  fiaviK  of  the  Columbia,  down 
whidi  they  made  ;  dxjiM  it  would  be  easy  to 
navigate  in  canoes. 

The  two  Snake  Indians  being  questioned  in 
the  matter,  showed  a  perfect  knowledge  of  the 
situation  of  the  post,  and  offered,  with  great  alac- 
rity, to  guide  them  to  the  place.  Their  offer  was 
accepted,  greatly  to  the  displeasure  of  Mr.  Miller, 
who  seemed  obstinately  bent  upon  braving  the 
perils  of  Mad  River. 

The  weather  for  a  few  days  past  had  been 
stormy,  with  rain  and  sleet.  The  Rocky  Moun- 
tains are  subject  to  tempestuous  winds  from  the 
west ;  lliese  sometimes  come  in  flaws  or  currents, 
making  a  path  through  the  forests  many  yards  in 
width,  and  whirling  off  trunks  and  branches  to  a 
great  distance.  The  present  storm  subsided  on 
the  third  of  October,  leaving  all  the  surrounding 
heights  covered  with  snow ;  for,  while  rain  had 
fallen  in  the  valley,  it  had  snowed  on  the  hill  tops. 

On  the  4th,  they  broke  up  their  encampment^ 
and  crossed  the  river,  the  water  coming  up  to  the 
girths  of  their  horses.  After  travelling  four  miles, 
they  encamped  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  the 
last,  as  they  hoped,  which  they  should  have  to 
traverse.  Four  days  more  took  them  across  it, 
and  over  several  plains,  watered  by  beautiful  little 
streams,  tributaries  of  Mad  River.     Near  one  of 


ARRIVAL  AT  SEI^RTS  POST. 


329 


(heir  encampments  there  was  a  hot  spring  con- 
tinually emitting  a  cloud  of  vapor.  These  ele- 
vated plains,  which  give  a  peculiar  character  to 
ihe  mountains,  are  frequented  by  large  gangs  of 
antelopes,  fleet  as  the  wind. 

On  the  evening  of  the  8th  of  October,  after  a 
cold  wintry  day,  with  gusts  of  westerly  wind  and 
flurries  of  snow,  they  arrived  at  the  sough t>-for 
post  of  Mr.  Henry.  Here  he  had  flxed  himself, 
after  being  compelled  by  the  hostilities  of  the 
Blackfeet,  to  abandon  the  upper  waters  of  the 
Missouri.  The  post,  however,  was  deserted,  fc  ' 
Mr.  Henry  had  left  it  in  the  course  of  the  prt 
ceding  spring,  and,  as  it  afterwards  appeared,  had 
fallen  in  with  Mr.  Lisa,  at  the  Arickara  village  on 
the  Missouri,  some  time  after  the  separation  of 
Mr.  Hunt  and  his  party. 

The  weary  travellers  gladly  took  possession  of 
the  deserted  log  huts  which  had  formed  the  post, 
and  which  stood  on  the  bank  of  a  sti'eam  upwards 
of  a  hundred  yards  wide,  on  which  they  intended 
to  embark.  There  being  plenty  of  suitable  timber 
in  the  neighborhood,  Mr.  Hunt  immediately  pro- 
ceeded to  construct  canoes.  As  he  would  have 
to  leave  his  horses  and  their  accoutrements  here, 
he  determined  to  make  this  a  trading  post,  where 
the  trappers  and  hunters,  to  be  distributed  about 
the  country,  might  repair ;  and  where  the  traders 
might  touch  on  their  way  through  the  mountains 
to  and  from  the  establishment  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Columbia.  He  informed  the  two  Snake  Indians 
of  this  determination,  and  engaged  them  to  remain 
in  that  neigl\borhood  and  take  care  of  the  horses 


,\:!. 


S30 


ASTORIA, 


until  the  white  men  should  return,  promising  them 
ample  rewards  for  their  fidelity.  It  may  seem  a 
desperate  chance  to  trust  to  the  faith  and  honesty 
of  two  such  vagabonds ;  but,  as  the  horses  would 
have,  at  all  events,  to  be  abandoned,  and  would 
otherwise  become  the  property  of  the  first  vagrant 
horde  that  should  encounter  them,  it  was  one 
chance  in  favor  of  their  being  regained. 

At  this  place  another  detachment  of  hunters 
prepared  to  separate  from  the  party  for  the  pur- 
pose of  trapping  beaver.  Three  of  these  had  al- 
ready been  in  this  neighborhood,  being  the  veteran 
Robinson  and  his  companions,  Hoback  and  Rezner, 
who  had  accompanied  Mr.  Henry  across  the  moun- 
tains, and  who  had  been  picked  up  by  Mr.  Hunt 
on  the  Missouri,  on  their  way  home  to  Kentucky. 
According  to  agreement  they  were  fitted  out  with 
horses,  traps,  ammunition,  and  everything  requisite 
for  their  undertaking,  and  were  to  bring  in  all  the 
peltries  they  should  collect,  either  to  this  trading 
post,  or  to  the  establishment  at  the  mouth  of  G)- 
lumbia  River.  Another  hunter,  of  the  name  of 
Cass,  was  associated  with  them  in  their  enterprise. 
It  is  in  this  way  that  small  knots  of  trappers  and 
hunters  are  distributed  about  the  wilderness  by 
the  fur  companies,  and  like  cranes  and  bitterns, 
haunt  its  solitary  streams.  Robinson,  the  Ken- 
tuck  ian,  the  veteran  of  the  "  bloody  ground,"  who, 
as  has  already  been  noted,  had  been  scalped  by 
the  Indians  in  his  younger  days,  was  the  leadei 
of  this  little  band.  When  they  were  about  to 
depart,  Mr.  Miller  called  the  partners  together 
and  threw  up  his  share  in  the  company,  declaring 
his  intention  of  joining  the  party  of  trappers. 


JL 


id 

>y 


MR.   MILLER   TURNS   TRAPPER. 


881 


This  resolution  struck  every  one  with  astonish* 
ment,  Mr.  Miller  being  a  man  of  education  and 
of  cultivated  habits,  and  little  fitted  for  the  rude 
life  of  a  hunter.  Besides,  the  precarious  and 
slender  profits  arising  from  such  a  life  were  be- 
neath the  prospects  of  one  who  held  a  share  in 
the  general  enterprise.  Mr.  Hunt  was  especially 
concerned  and  mortified  at  his  determination,  as 
it  was  through  his  advice  and  influence  he  had  en- 
tered into  the  concern.  He  endeavored,  therefore, 
dissuade  him  from  this  sudden  resolution ;  rep- 
resenting its  rashness,  and  the  hardships  and 
perils  to  which  it  would  expose  him.  He  earnestly 
advised  him,  however  he  might  feel  dissatis.fied 
with  the  enterprise,  still  to  continue  on  in  company 
until  they  should  reach  the  mouth  of  Columbia 
River.  There  they  would  meet  the  expedition 
that  was  to  come  by  sea ;  when,  should  he  stiil 
feel  disposed  to  relinquish  the  undertaking,  Mr. 
Hunt  pledged  himself  to  furnish  him  a  passage 
home  in  one  of  the  vessels  belonging  to  the  com- 
pany. 

To  all  this  IMiller  replied  abruptly,  that  it  was 
useless  to  argue  with  him,  as  his  mind  was  made 
up.  They  might  furnish  him,  or  not,  as  ihey 
pleased,  with  the  necessary  supplies,  but  he  was 
determined  to  part  company  here,  and  set  off  with 
the  trappers.  So  saying,  he  ^.vng  out  of  their 
presence  without  vouchsafing  any  further  con- 
versation. 

Much  as  this  wayward  conduct  gavp  them  anx- 
iety, the  partners  saw  it  was  in  vain  to  remon- 
strate.    Every  attention  \vas  paid  to  fit  him  out 


\  ■ 


: 


V  * 


832 


ASTORIA. 


for  his  headstrong  undertaking.  He  was  provided 
with  four  horses,  and  all  the  articles  he  required. 
The  two  Snakes  undertook  to  conduct  him  and 
his  companions  to  an  encampment  of  their  tribe, 
lower  down  among  the  mountains,  from  whom 
they  would  receive  informatior  as  to  the  best 
trapping  grounds.  After  thus  guiding  them,  the 
Snakes  were  to  return  to  Fort  Henry,  as  the 
new  trading  post  was  called,  and  take  charge  of 
the  horses  which  the  party  would  leave  there,  of 
which,  after  all  the  hunters  were  supplied,  there 
remained  seventy-seven.  These  matters  being  all 
arranged,  Mr.  Miller  set  out  with  his  companions, 
under  guidance  of  the  two  Snakes,  on  th^  10th 
of  October ;  and  much  did  it  grieve  the  friends 
of  that  gentleman  to  see  him  thus  wantonly  cast- 
ing himself  loose  upon  savage  life.  How  he  and 
his  comrades  fared  in  the  wilderness,  and  how  the 
Snakes  acquitted  themselves  of  their  trust  respect- 
ing the  horses,  will  hereafter  appear  in  the  course 
of  these  rambling  anecdotes. 


, 


CHAPTER  XXXII. 


{HILE  die  canoes  were  in  preparation , 
the  hunters  ranged  about  the  neighbor- 
hood, but  with  little  success.  Tracks 
of  buffaloes  were  to  be  seen  in  all  directions,  but 
none  of  a  fresh  date.  There  were  some  elk,  but 
extremely  wild ;  two  only  were  killed.  Ante- 
lopes were  likewise  seen,  but  too  shy  and  fleet  to 
be  approached.  A  few  beavers  were  taken  every 
night,  and  salmon  trout  of  a  small  size,  so  that 
tlie  camp  had  principally  to  subsist  upon  dried 
buffalo  meat. 

On  the  14th,  a  poor,  half-naked  Snake  Indian, 
one  of  that  forlorn  caste  called  the  Shuckers,  or 
Diggers,  made  his  appearance  at  the  camp.  He 
came  from  some  lurking-place  among  the  rocks 
and  cliffs,  and  presented  a  picture  of  that  famish- 
ing wretchedness  to  which  these  lonely  fugitives 
among  the  mountains  are  sometimes  reduced. 
Having  received  wherewithal  to  allay  his  hunger, 
be  disappeared,  but  in  the  course  of  a  day  or  two 
returned  to  the  camp,  bringing  with  him  his  son, 
a  miserable  boy,  still  more  naked  and  forlorn 
than  himself.  Food  was  given  to  both ;  they 
skulked  about  the  camp  like  hungry  hounds,  seek- 
ing what  they  might  devour,  and  having  gathered 


i    I 


334 


ASTORIA. 


up  the  feet  and  entrails  of  some  beavers  that 
were  lying  about,  slunk  off  with  them  to  their 
den  among  the  rocks. 

By  the  18th  of  October,  fifteen  canoes  were 
completed,  and  on  the  following  day  the  party 
embarked  with  their  effects  ;  leaving  their  horses 
grazing  about  the  banks,  and  trusting  to  the  hon- 
esty of  the  two  Snakes,  and  some  special  turn  of 
good  luck  for  their  future  recovery. 

The  current  bore  them  along  at  a  rapid  rate  ; 
the  light  spirits  of  the  Canadian  voyageurs,  which 
had  occasionally  flagged  upon  land,  rose  to  their 
accustomed  buoyancy  on  finding  themselves  again 
upon  the  water.  They  wielded  their  paddles 
with  their  wonted  dexterity,  and  for  the  first  time 
made  the  mountains  echo  with  their  favorite  boat 
songs. 

In  the  course  of  the  day  the  little  squadron 
arrived  at  the  confluence  of  Henry  and  Mad 
Rivers,  which,  thus  united,  swelled  into  a  beauti- 
ful stream  of  a  light  pea-green  color,  navigable 
for  boats  of  any  size,  and  which,  from  the  place 
of  junction,  took  the  name  of  Snake  River,  a 
stream  doomed  to  be  the  scene  of  much  disaster 
to  the  travellers.  The  banks  were  here  and 
there  fringed  with  willow  thickets  and  small  cot- 
ton-wood trees.  The  weather  was  cold,  and  it 
snowed  all  day,  and  great  flocks  of  ducks  and 
geese,  sporting  in  the  water  or  streaming  through 
the  air,  gave  token  that  winter  was  at  hand ;  yet 
the  hearts  of  the  travellers  were  light,  and,  as 
they  glided  down  the  little  river,  they  flattered 
themselves  with  the  hope  of  soon  reaching  the 


THE  BEGINNING   OF   TROUBLES.       335 


^.3L_ 


C(ilumbia.  After  making  thirty  miles  in  a  soutli- 
erly  direction,  they  encamped  for  the  night  in  a 
neighborhood  which  required  some  little  vigilance, 
as  there  were  recent  traces  of  grizzly  bears  among 
the  thickets. 

On  the  following  day  the  river  increased  in 
width  and  beauty ;  flowing  parallel  to  a  range  ^f 
mountains  on  the  left,  which  at  times  were  finely 
reflected  in  its  light  green  waters.  The  three 
snowy  suqamits  of  the  Pilot  Knobs  or  Tetons 
were  still  seen  towering  in  the  distance.  After 
pursuing  a  swift  but  placid  course  for  twenty 
miles,  the  current  began  to  foam  and  brawl,  and 
assume  the  wild  and  broken  character  common  to 
the  streams  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  In 
fact  the  rivers  which  flow  from  those  mountains 
to  the  Pacific,  are  essentially  dilFerent  from  those 
which  traverse  the  great  prairies  on  their  eastern 
declivities.  The  latter,  though  sometimes  bois- 
terous, are  generally  free  from  obstructions,  and 
easily  navigated ;  but  the  rivers  to  the  west  of 
the  mountains  descend  more  steeply  and  impetu- 
ously, and  are  continually  liable  to  cascades  and 
rapids.  The  latter  aboundied  in  the  part  of  the 
river  which  the  travellers  were  now  descending. 
Two  of  the  canoes  filled  among  the  breakers; 
the  crews  were  saved,  but  much  of  the  lading 
was  lost  or  damaged,  and  one  of  the  canoes 
drifted  down  the  stream  and  was  broken  among 
the  rocks,  v 

On  the  following  day,  October  21st,  they  made 
but  a  short  distance  when  they  came  to  a  danger- 
ous strait)  where  the  river  was  compressed  for 


336 


ASTORIA. 


nearly  half  a  mile  between  perpendicular  rocks, 
reducing  it  to  the  width  of  twenty  yards,  and  in- 
creasing its  violence.  Here  they  were  obliged  to 
pass  the  canoes  down  cautiously  by  a  line  from 
the  impending  banks.  This  consumed  a  great 
part  of  a  day ;  and  after  they  had  reembarked 
they  were  soon  again  impeded  by  rapids,  when 
they  had  to  unload  their  canoes  and  carry  them 
and  their  cargoes  for  some  distance  by  land.  It 
is  at  these  places,  called  "  portages,'*  that  the 
Canadian  voyageur  exhibits  his  most  valuable 
qualities ;  carrying  heavy  burdens,  and  toiling  to 
and  fro,  on  land  and  in  the  water,  over  rocks 
and  precipices,  among  brakes  and  brambles,  not 
only  without  a  murmur,  bui;  with  the  greatest 
cheerfulness  and  alacrity,  joking  and  laughing  and 
singing  scraps  of  old  French  ditties. 

The  spirits  of  the  party,  however,  which  had 
been  elated  on  first  varying  their  journeying  from 
land  to  water,  had  now  lost  some  of  their  buoy- 
ancy. Everything  ahead  was  wrapped  in  uncer- 
tainty. They  knew  nothing  of  the  river  on 
which  they  were  floating.  It  had  never  been 
navigated  by  a  white  man,  nor  could  they  meet 
with  an  Indian  to  give  them  any  informtition  con- 
cerning it.  It  kept  on  its  course  through  a  vast 
wilderness  of  silent  and  apparently  uninhabited 
mountains,  without  a  savage  wigwam  upon  its 
banks,  or  bark  upon  its  waters.  The  difficulties 
and  perils  they  had  already  passed,  made  them 
apprehend  others  before  them,  that  might  effec- 
tually bar  their  progress.  As  they  glided  onward, 
however,  they    regained  heart  and   hope.     The 


#■ 


AN   UNINHABITED   COUNTRY 


837 


current  continued  to  be  strong ;  but  it  was  steady, 
and  though  they  met  with  frequent  rapids,  none 
of  them  were  bad.  Mountains  were  constantly 
to  be  seen  in  different  directions,  but  sometimes 
the  swift  river  glided  through  prairies,  and  was 
bordered  by  small  cotton-wood  trees  and  willows. 
These  prairies  at  certain  seasons  are  ranged  by 
migratory  herds  of  the  wide-wandering  buffalo, 
the  tracks  of  which,  though  not  of  recent  date, 
were  frequently  to  be  seen.  Here,  too,  were  to 
be  found  the  prickly  pear  or  Indian  fig,  a  plant 
which  loves  a  more  southern  climate.  On  the 
land  were  large  flights  of  magpies  and  American 
robins  ;  whole  fleets  of  ducks  and  geese  navigated 
the  river,  or  flew  off"  in  long  streaming  files  at  the 
approach  of  the  canoes ;  while  the  frequent  estab- 
lishments of  the  painstaking  and  quiet-loving 
beaver,  showed  that  the  solitude  of  these  waters 
was  rarely  disturbed,  even  by  the  all-pervading 
savage. 

They  had  now  come  near  two  hundred  and 
eighty  miles  since  leaving  Fort  Henry,  yet  with- 
out seeing  a  human  being,  or  a  human  habitation  ; 
a  wild  and  desert  solitude  extended  on  either  side 
of  the  river,  apparently  almost  destitute  of  animal 
life.  At  length,  on  the  24th  of  October,  they 
were  gladdened  by  the  sight  of  some  savage 
tents,  and  hastened  to  land  and  visit  them,  for 
they  were  anxious  to  procure  information  to 
guide  them  on  their  route.  On  their  approach, 
however,  the  savages  fled  in  consternation.  They 
proved  to  be  a  wandering  band  of  Shoshonies, 

In  their  tents  were  great  quantities  of  small  fish 
22 


w 


33$ 


ASTORIA. 


about  two  inches  long,  together  with  roots  i»nd 
seeds,  or  grain,  which  they  were  drying  for  winter 
provisions.  They  appeared  to  be  destitute  of 
tools  of  any  kind,  yet  there  were  bows  and 
arrows  very  well  made  ;  the  former  were  formed 
of  pine,  cedar,  or  bone,  strengthened  by  sinews, 
and  the  latter  of  the  wood  of  rose-bushes,  and 
other  crooked  plant"?,  but  carefully  straightened, 
and  tipped  with  stone  of  a  bottle-green  color. 

There  were  also  vessels  of  willow  and  grass, 
so  closely  wrought  as  to  hold  water,  and  a  beine 
neatly  made  with  meshes,  in  the  ordinary  man- 
ner, of  the  fibres  of  wild  flax  or  nettle.  The 
humble  effects  of  the  poor  savages  remained  un- 
molested by  their  visitors,  and  a  few  small 
iarticles,  with  a  kaifisL  or  two^  were  left  in  the 
camp,  and  were  no  doubt  regarded  a^nvalual:'  ' 
prizes. 

Shortly  afler  leaving  this  d^stvcii^d  camp,  and 
reembarking  in  the  crroes,  tVo  tra  ellers  met 
with  three  of  the  Snakes  on  a  triangular  raft 
made  of  flags  or  reeds ;  such  was  their  rude 
mode  of  navigating  the  river.  They  were  entirely 
naked  excepting  small  mantles  of  hare  skms 
over  their  shoulders.  The  canoes  approached 
near  enough  to  gain  a  full  view  of  them,  but  they 
were  not  to  be  brought  to  a  parley. 

Ail  further  progress  for  the  day  was  barred  by 
a  f  lii  in  the  river  of  about  thirty  feet  perpendicu- 
lar ;  at  the  head  of  which  the  party  encamped 
hv  the  night. 

T!k.  next  day  was  one  of  excessive  toil  and 
h»it  litde  progress :  the  river  winding  through  a 


t 


A  FRIGHTENED  SNAKE, 


339 


wild  rocky  country,  and  being  interrupted  by 
frequent  rapids,  among  which  the  canoes  were  in 
great  peril.  On  the  succeeding  day  they  again 
visited  a  camp  of  wandering  Snakes,  but  the 
inhabitants  fled  with  terror  at  the  sight  of  a  fleet 
of  canoes,  filled  witli  whif^  men,  coming  down 
their  solitary  river. 

As  Mr.  Hunt  was  extremely  anxious  to  gain 
information  cx)ncerning  his  route,  he  endeavored 
by  all  kmds  of  friendly  signs  to  entice  back  the 
fugitives.  At  length  one,  who  was  on  horseback, 
ventured  back  with  fear  and  trembling.  He  was 
better  clad,  and  in  better  condition,  than  most  of 
his  vagrant  tribe  that  Mr.  Hunt  had  yet  seen. 
The  chief  object  of  his  return  appeared  to  be  to 
intercede  for  a  quantity  of  dried  meat  and  salmon 
troutf  which  he  had  left  behind  ;  on  which,  prob- 
ably, he  depended  for  his  winter's  subsistence. 
The  poor  wretch  approached  with  hesitation,  the 
alternate  dread  of  famine  and  of  white  men 
operating  upon  his  mind.  He  made  the  mo 
abject  signs,  imploring  Mr.  Hunt  not  to  carry 
his  food.  The  latter  tried  in  every  way  to  r«  ao- 
pure  him,  and  offered  him  knives  in  exchange  'or 
his  provisions ;  great  as  was  the  temptation,  the 
poor  Snake  could  only  pievail  upon  hims  to 
spare  a  part ;  keeping  a  feverish  watch  over  the 
rest,  lest  it  should  be  taken  away-  It  was  in 
vain  Mr,  Hunt  made  inquiries  of  him  concerning 
his  route,  and  the  course  of  the  river.  The 
Indian  was  too  much  frightened  and  bewildered 
to  comprehend  him  or  to  reply  ;  he  did  noth.  ;g 
but  alternately  commend  himself  to  the  proteo- 


340 


ASTORIA. 


f'*11 


tion  of  the  Good  Spirit,  and  supplicate  Mr.  Hunt 
not  to  take  away  his  fish  and  buffalo  meat ;  and 
hi  this  state  they  left  him,  trembling  about  his 
treasures. 

In  the  course  of  that  and  the  next  day  they 
made  nearly  eight  miles ;  the  river  inclining  to 
the  south  of  west,  and  being  clear  and  beautiful, 
nearly  half  a  mile  in  width,  with  many  populous 
communities  of  the  beaver  along  its  banks.  The 
28th  of  October,  however,  was  a  day  of  disaster. 
The  river  again  became  rough  and  impetuous, 
and  was  chafed  and  broken  by  numerous  rapids. 
These  grew  more  and  more  dangerous,  and  the 
utmost  skill  was  required  to  steer  among  them. 
Mr.  Crooks  was  seated  in  the  second  canoe  of  the 
squadron,  and  had  an  old  experienced  Canadian, 
for  steersman,  named  Antoine  Clappine,  dhe  of 
the  most  valuable  of  the  voyageurs.  The  lead- 
ing canoe  had  glided  safely  among  the  turbulent 
and  roaring  surge°  but  in  following  it,  Mr.  Crooks 
perceived  that  his  canoe  was  bearing  towards  a 
rock.  He  called  out  to  the  steersman,  but  his 
warning  voice  Tas  either  unheard  or  unheeded. 
In  the  next  moment  they  struck  upon  the  rock. 
The  cancQ  was  split  and  overturned.  There 
were  five  persons  on  board.  Mr.  Crooks  and 
one  of  his  companions  were  thrown  amidst  roar- 
ing breakers  and  a  whirling  current,  but  succeeded, 
by  strong  swimming,  to  reach  the  shore.  Clap- 
pine  and  two  others  clung  to  the  shattered  bark, 
and  drifted  with  it  to  a  rock.  The  wreck  struck 
the  rock  with  one  end,  and  swinging  round,  flung 
poor  Clappine  off  into  the  raging  stream,  which 


■I 


THE  CALDRON  LINN. 


341 


Bwept  him  away,  and  he  perished.  His  comrades 
succeeded  in  getting  upon  the  rock,  from  whence 
they  were  afterwards  taken  ofi". 

This  disastrous  event  brought  the  whole  squad* 
ron  to  a  halt,  and  struck  a  chill  into  every  bosom. 
Indeed  they  had  arrived  at  a  terrific  strait,  that 
forbade  all  further  progress  in  the  canoes,  and 
dismayed  the  most  experienced  voyageur.  The 
whole  body  of  the  river  was  compressed  into  a 
space  of  less  than  thirty  feet  in  width,  between 
two  ledges  of  rocks,  upwards  of  two  hundred 
feet  high,  and  formed  a  whirling  and  tumultuous 
vortex,  so  frightfully  agitated,  as  to  receive  the 
name  of  "  The  Caldron  Linn."  Beyond  this 
fearful  abyss,  the  river  kept  raging  and  roaring 
on,  until  lost  to  sight  among  impending  preci- 
pices. 


Lck 


CHAPTER  XXXin. 


R.  HUNT  aud  his  companions  encamped 
upon  the  borders  of  the  Caldron  Linn, 
and  held  gloomy  counsel  as  to  their  fu- 
ture course.  The  recent  wreck  had  dismayed 
even  the  voyageurs,  and  the  fate  of  their  populai* 
comrade,  Clappine,  one  of  the  most  adroit  and 
experienced  of  their  fraternity,  had  struck  sorrow 
to  their  hearts,  for  with  all  their  levity,  thes^ 
thoughtless  beings  have  great  kindness  towards 
each  other. 

The  ^  hole  distance  they  had  navigated  since 
leaving  Henry's  Fort,  was  computed  to  be  about 
three  hundred  and  forty  miles ;  strong  apprehen- 
sions were  now  entertained  that  the  tremendous 
impediments  before  them  would  oblige  them  to 
abandon  their  canoes.  It  was  determined  to 
send  exploring  parties  on  each  side  of  the  river 
to  ascertain  whether  it  was  possible  to  navigate  it 
further.  Accordingly,  on  the  following  morning, 
three  men  were  dispatched  along  the  south  bank, 
while  Mr.  Hunt  and  three  others  proceeded 
ftlong  the  north.  The  two  parties  returned  after 
a  weary  scramble  among  swamps,  rocks,  and 
precipices,  and  with  very  disheartening  accounts. 
For  nearly  forty  miles  that  they  had  explored, 
the   river   foamed   and  roared  along  through  a 


DANGERS  AND  DIFFICULTIES. 


343 


deep  aud  narrow  channel,  from  twenty  to  thirty 
yards  wide,  which  it  had  worn,  in  the  course  of 
ages,  through  the  heart  of  a  barren,  rocky  coun- 
try. The  precipices  on  each  side  were  often 
two  and  three  hundred  feet  high,  sometimes  per- 
pendicular, and  sometimes  overhanging,  so  that 
it  was  impossible,  excepting  in  one  or  two  places, 
to  get  down  to  the  margin  of  the  stream.  Thitf 
dreary  strait  was  rendered  the  mol-e  dangerous 
by  frequent  rapids,  and  occasionally  perpendicu- 
lar falls  from  ten  to  forty  feet  in  height ;  so  that 
it  seemed  almost  hopeless  to  attempt  to  pass  the 
canoes  down  it.  The  party,  however,  who  had 
explored  the  south  side  of  the  river  had  found 
t  place,  about  six  miles  from  the  camp,  where 
they  thought  it  possible  the  canoes  might  be  car- 
ried dowa  the  baiik  and  launched  upon  the 
stream,  and  from  whence  they  might  make  their 
way  with  the  aid  of  occasional  portages.  Four 
of  the  best  canoes  were  accordingly  selected  for 
the  experiment,  and  were  transported  to  the 
place  on  the  shoulders  of  sixteen  of  the  men. 
At  the  same  time  Mr.  Reed  the  clerk,  and  three 
men,  were  detached  to  explore  the  river  still 
further  down  than  the  previous  scouting  parties 
had  been,  and  at  the  same  time  to  look  out  for 
Indians,  from  whom  provisions  might  be  obtained, 
and  a  supply  of  horses,  should  it  be  found  neces- 
sary to  proceed  by  land. 

The  party  who  had  been  sent  with  the  canoes 
returned  on  the  following  day,  weary  and  de- 
jected. One  of  the  canoes  had  been  swept 
away  with  all  the  weapons  and  effects  of  fomr 


I!  ' 


844 
of  the 


ASTORIA, 


voyageurs,  in  attemptiDg  to  pass  it  down 
a  rapid  by  means  of  a  line.  The  other  three 
had  stuck  fast  among  the  rocks,  so  that  it  was 
unpossible  to  move  them;  the  men  returned, 
therefore,  in  despair,  and  declared  the  river  un- 
navigable. 

The  situation  of  the  unforcunate  travellers  was 
now  gloomy  in  the  extreme.  They  were  in  the 
heart  of  an  unknown  wilderness,  uutraversed  as 
yet  by  a  white  man.  They  were  at  a  loss  what 
route  to  take,  and  how  far  they  were  from  the 
ultimate  place  of  their  destination,  nor  could  they 
meet  in  these  uninhabited  wilds  with  any  human 
being  to  give  them  information.  The  repeated 
accidents  to  their  canoes  had  reduced  their  stock 
of  provisions  to  five  days'  allowance,  and  there 
was  now  every  appearance  of  soon  having  famine 
added  to  their  other  sufferings. 

This  last  circumstance  rendered  it  more  peril- 
ous to  keep  together  than  to  separate.  Accord- 
ingly, after  a  little  anxious  but  bewildered  counsel, 
it  was  determined  that  several  small  detachments 
should  start  off  in  different  directions,  headed  by 
the  several  partners.  Should  any  of  them  suc- 
ceed in  falling  in  with  friendly  Indians,  within  a 
fieasonable  distance,  and  obtaining  a  supply  of 
provisions  and  horses,  they  were  to  return  to  the 
aid  of  the  main  body:  otherwise  they  were  to 
shift  for  themselves,  and  shape  their  course  ac- 
cording to  circumstances  ;  keeping  the  mouth  of 
the  Columbia  River  as  the  ultimate  point  of  their 
wayfaring.  Accordingly,  three  several  parties 
set  off  from  the  camp  at  Caldron  Linn,  m  oppo- 


^ 


GLOOMY  PROSPECTS. 


d45 


Bite  directions.  Mr.  IVrLellan,  with  three  men, 
kept  down  along  the  bank  of  the  river.  Mr. 
Crooks,  with  five  others,  turned  their  steps  up  it ; 
retracing  by  land  the  weary  course  they  had 
made  by  water,  intending,  should  they  not  tind 
relief  nearer  at  band,  to  keep  on  until  they 
should  reach  Henry's  Fort,  where  they  hoped  t6 
find  the  horses  they  had  left  there,  and  to  return 
with  them  to  the  main  body. 

The  third  party,  composed  of  five  men,  was 
headed  by  Mr.  M'Kenzie,  who  struck  to  the 
northward,  across  the  desert  plains,  in  hopes 
of  coming  upon  the  main  stream  of  the  Colum- 
bia. 

Having  seen  tliese  three  adventurous  bands 
depart  upon  their  forlorn  expeditions,  Mr.  Hunt 
turned  his  thoughts  to  provide  for  the  subsistence 
of  the  main  body  lefb  to  his  charge,  and  to  pre- 
pare for  their  future  march.  There  remained 
with  him  thirty-one  men,  beside  the  squaw  and 
two  children  of  Pierre  Dorion.  There  was  no 
game  to  be  met  with  in  the  neighborhood ;  but 
beavers  were  occasionally  trapped  about  the 
river  banks,  which  afforded  a  scanty  supply 
of  food ;  in  the  meantime  they  comforted  them- 
selves that  some  one  or  other  of  the  foraging  de- 
tachments would  be  successful,  and  return  with 
relief. 

Mr.  Hunt  now  set  to  work  with  all  diligence, 
to  prepare  caches,  in  which  to  deposit  the  bag- 
gage and  merchandise,  of  which  it  would  be 
necessary  to  disburden  themselves,  prepar3>tory 
to  their  weary  march  by  land :  and  here  we  shall 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


I.I 


150  ""^^    iin^^ 
■^  1^   1 2.2 

^   1^    12.0 

13 


im 


1.25   III  1.4       1.6 

< 

6" 

► 

P: 


<? 


/2 


% 


^l. 


^^.?^^> 


y 


/^ 


Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


846 


ASTORIA. 


give  a  brief  descripdon  of-  those  contrivantes,  M 
noted  Id  the  wilderness. 

A  cache  is  a  term  common  among  traders  and 
hunters^  to  designate  a  hiding-place  for  provisions 
and  effects.  It  is  derived  firom  the  Friench  woi'd 
cacher,  to  conceal,  and  originated  among  the  early 
col6nidts'  of  Canada^  and  Louisiana ;  but  the  se- 
cret depository  which  it  designates  was  in  use 
among  the  aboriginals  long  before  the  intrusion 
of  the  whit6  men.  It  is,  in  fact,  the  only  mode 
that  Bbigratory  hordes  have  of  preserving  their 
valuables  from  robbery,  during  their  long  ab- 
sences from  th3ir  villages  or  accustomed  haunts, 
on  hunting  expeditions,  or  during  the  vicissitudes 
of  war.  The  utmost  skill  and  caution  are  re- 
quired to  render  these  places  of  concealment  in- 
visible to  the  lynx  eye  of  an  Indian.  The  fii'st 
care  is  to  seek  out  a  proper  situation,  which  is 
generally  some  dry,  low,  bank  of  clay,  on  the 
margin  of  a  water-course.  As  soon  as  the  pre- 
cise spot  is  pitched  upon,  blankets,  i^iaddle-cloths, 
and  other  coverings,  are  spread  over  the  sur- 
rounding grass  and  bushes,  to  prevent  foot-tracks, 
or  any  other  derangement ;  and  as  few  hands  as 
possible  are  employed.  A  circle  of  about  two 
feet  in  diameter  is  then  nicely  cut  in  the  sod, 
which  is  carefully  remoYed,  With  the  loose  soil 
immediately  beneath  it,  and  laid  aside  in  a  place 
where  it  will  be  safe  from  anything  that  may 
change  its  appearance.  The  uncovered  area  is 
then  digged  perpendicularly  to  the  deptli  of  about 
three  feet,  and  is  then  gradually  widened  so  as  to 
Form  a  coliical  chamber  six  or  seven  feet  deep. 


THH  CACHE. 


M 


rhe  whole  of  the  earth  displaced  by  this  process, 
beiDg  of  a  different  color  from  that  on  the  sur- 
face, is  handed  up  in  a  vessel,  and  heaped  into  a 
ikin  or  doth,  in  which  it  is  conveyed  to  the 
stream  and  thrown  into  the  midst  of  the  current, 
that  it  may  be  entirely  carried  off.  Should  the 
cache  not  be  formed  in  the  vicinity  of  a  stream, 
the  earth  thus  thrown  up  is  carried  to  a  distance, 
and  scattered  in  duch  manner  as  not  to  leave  the 
minutest  trace.  The  cave  being  formed,  is  well 
lined  with  dry  grass,  bark,  sticks,  and  poles,  and 
Iccaaionally  a  dried  hide.  The  property  intended 
to  be  hidden  is  then  laid  in,  after  having  been 
well  aired :  a  hide  is  spread  over  it,  and  diied 
grass,  brush,  and  stones  thrown  in,  and  trampled 
down  until  the  pit  is  filled  to  the  neck.  The 
loose  soil  which  had  been  put  aside  is  then 
brought  and  rammed  down  firmly,  to  prevent  its 
caving  in,  and  is  frequently  sprinkled  with  water, 
to  destroy  the  scent,  lest  the  wolves  and  bears 
'should  be  attracted  to  the  place,  and  root  up  the 
concealed  treasure.  When  the  neck  of  the  cache 
is  nearly  level  with  the  surrounduig  surface,  the 
sod  is  again  fitted  in  with  the  utmost  exactness, 
and  any  bushes,  stocks,  or  stones,  that  may  have 
originally  been  about  the  spdt,  are  restored  to 
their  former  places.-  The  blankets  and  other 
coverings  ai'e  then  removed  from  the  surrounding . 
herbage ;  all  tracks  are  obliterated ;  the  grass  is 
gently  raised  by  the  hand  to  its  natural  position, 
and  the  minutest  chip  or  straw  is  scrupulously 
gleaned  up  and  thrown  into  the  stream.  After 
tU  this  is  done,  the  place   is  abandoned  for  the 


848 


ASTORIA. 


nighty  and,  if  all  be  right  next  morning,  is  not 
visited  again,  until  there  be  a  necessity  for  re- 
opening the  cache.  Four  men  are  su^cient,  in 
tnis  way,  to  conceal  the  amount  of  three  tons 
weight  of  merchandise  in  the  course  of  two  days. 
Nine  caches  were  required  to  contain  the  goods 
and  baggage  which  J&Ir.  Hunt  found  it  necessary 
to  leave  at  this  placo. 

Three  days  had  been  thus  employed  since  the 
departure  of  the  several  detachments,  when  that 
of  Mr.  Crooks  unexpectedly  made  its  appearance. 
A  momentary  joy  was  diffused  through  the  camp, 
for  they  supposed  succor  to  be  at  hand.  It  was 
soon  dispelled.  '  Mr.  Crooks  and  his  companions 
had  been  completely  disheartened  by  this  retro- 
gade  march  through  a  bleak  and  barren  country  ; 
and  had  found,  computing  from  their  progress  and 
the  accumulating  difficulties  besetting  every  step, 
that  it  would  be  impossible  to  reach  Henrjr^s 
Fort,  and  return  to  the  main  body  in  the  course 
of  the  winter.  They  had  determined,  therefore, 
to  rejoin  their  comrades,  and  share  their  lot. 

One  avenue  of  hope  was  thus  closed,  upon  the 
anxious  sojourners  at  the  Caldron  Linn ;  their 
main  expectation  of  relief  was  now  from  the  two 
parties  under  Reed  and  M'Lellan,  which  had  pro- 
ceeded down  the  river ;  for,  .as  to  Mr.  M'Kenzie's 
detachment,  which  had  struck  across  the  plains, 
they  thought  it  would  have  sufficient  difficulty  in 
struggling  forward  through  the  trackless  wilder- 
ness. For  five  days  they  continued  to  support 
themselves  by  trapping  and  fishing.  Some  fish 
of  tolerable  size  were  speared  at  night  by  the 


THE  DEVIVa  SCUTTLE  HOLE, 


849 


light  of  cedar  torches ;  others  that  were  very 
small,  were  caught  in  nets  with  fine  meshes.  The 
product  of  their  fishing,  however,  was  very  scanty. 
Their  trapping  was  also  precarious ;  and  the  tails 
and  belHes  of  the  beavers  were  dried  and  put  by 
for  the  journey. 

At  length  two  of  the  companions  of  Mr.  Beed 
returned,  and  were  hailed  with  the  most  anxious 
eagerness.  Their  report  served  but  to  increase 
the  general  despondency.  They  had  followed  Mr. 
Reed  for  some  distance  below  the  point  to  which 
Mr.  Hunt  had  explored,  but  had  met  with  no  In- 
dians from  whom  to  obtain  information  and  relief. 
The  river  still  presented  the  same  furious  aspect, 
brawling  and  boiling  along  a  narrow  and  rugged 
channel,  between  rocks  that  rose  like  walls. 

A  lingering  hope,  which  had  been  indulged  by 
some  of  the  party,  of  proceeding  by  water,  was 
now  finally  given  up :  the  long  and  terrific  strait 
of  the  river  set  all  further  progress  at  defiance, 
and  in  their  disgust  at  the  place,  and  their  vexa- 
tion at  the  disasters  sustained  there,  they  gave  it 
the  indignant,  though  not  very  decorous,  appella- 
tion of  the  Devil's  Scuttle  Hole. 


pro- 


CHAPTER  XXXIV. 


18  I 


[I 


I 


i  HK  resolution  of  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  com 
panions  was  now  taken  to  set  out  im- 
mediately on  foot.  As  to  the  othei 
detachments  that  had  in  a  manner  gone  forth  to 
seek  their  fortunes,  there  was  little  chance  of  the'i 
return  ;  thej  would  probably  pt^ake  their  own 
way  tihrough  the  wilderness.  At  any  rate,  to 
linger  in  the  vague  hope  of  relief  from  them, 
would  be  to  run  the  risk  of  perishing  with 
hunger.  Besides,  the  winter  was  rapidly  ad- 
vancing, and  they  had  a  long  journey  to  make 
through  an  unknown  country,  where  all  kinds  of 
perils  might  await  them.  They  were  yet,  in  fact, 
a  thousand  ou|es  from  Astoria,  but  the  distance 
was  unknown  to  them  at  the  time ;  everything 
before  and  around  them  was  vague  and  conjecr 
tural,  and  wore  aii  suspect  calculated  to  inspire 
despondency. 

In  abandoning  the  river,  they  would  have  to 
launch  forth  upon  vast  trackless  plains  destitute 
of  all  means  of  subsistence,  where  they  might 
persh  of  hunger  and  thirst.  A  dreary  desert  of 
sand  and  gravel  extends  from  Snake  River  almost 
to  the  Columbia.  Here  and  there  is  a  thin  and 
scanty  herbage,  insufficient  for  the  pasturage  of 
aorse  or  buffalo.     Indeed,  th.se  treeless  wastes 


PREPARAT10^a  FOR  A   MARCH. 


351 


botvfeen  the  Rocky  Mountains  and  the  Pacific, 
are  even  more  desolate  and  barren  than  the 
naked,  upper  prairies  on  the  Atlantic  side  ;  they 
present  vast  desert  tracts  that  must  ever  defy 
cultivation,  and  interpose  dreary  and  thirsty  wilds 
between  the  habitations  of  man,  in  traversing 
which,  the  wanderer  will  often  be  in  danger  of 
perishing. 

Seeing  the  hopeless  character  of  these  wastes, 
Mr.  Hunt  and  his  companions  determined  to 
keep  along  the  course  of  the  river,  where  they 
would  always  have  water  at  hand,  and  would  be 
able  occasionally  to  procure  fish  and  beaver,  and 
might  perchance  meet  with  Indians,  from  whom 
they  could  obtain  provisions. 

They  now  made  their  final  preparations  for 
the  march.  All  their  remaining  stock  of  pro- 
visions consisted  of  forty  pounds  of  Indian  corn, 
twenty  pounds  of  grease,  about  five  pounds  of 
portable  soup,  and  a  sufficient  quantity  of  dried 
meat  to  allow  each  man  a  pittance  of  five  pounds 
and  a  quarter,  to  be  reserved  for  emergencies. 
This  being  properly  distributed,  they  deposited 
all  their  goods  and  superfiuous  articles  in  the 
caches,  taking  nothing  with  them  but  what  was 
indispensable  to  the  journey.  "With  all  their 
management,  each  man  had  to  carry  twenty 
pounds'  weight  beside  his  own  articles  and  equip- 
ments? 

That  they  might  have  the  better  chance  of 
prociring  subsistence  in  the  scanty  region  they 
were  to  traverse,  they  divided  their  party  into 
two  bands,  Mr.  Hunt,  with  eighteen  men,  besid^ 


d52 


ASTORIA, 


Pierre  Dorion  and  his  family,  was  to  proceed 
down  the  north  side  of  the  river,  while  Mr. 
Crooks,  with  eighteen  men,  kept  along  the  south 
side. 

On  the  morning  of  the  9th  of  October,  the 
two  parties  separated  and  set  forth  on  their  sev- 
eral courses.  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  companions  fol- 
lowed along  the  right  bank  of  the  river,  which 
made  its  way  far  below  them,  brawling  at  the 
foot  of  perpendicular  precipices  of  solid  rock, 
two  and  three  hundred  feet  high.  For  twenty- 
eight  miles  that  they  travelled  this  day,  they 
found  it  impossible  to  get  down  to  the  margin 
of  the  stream.  At  the  end  of  this  distance  they 
encamped  for  the  night  at  a  place  which  admitted 
a  scrambling  descent.  It  was  with  the  greatest 
difficulty,  however,  that  they  succeeded  in  getting 
up  a  kettle  of  water  from  the  river  for  the  use  of 
the  camp.  As  some  rain  had  fallen  in  the  after- 
noon, they  passed  the  night  under  the  shelter  of 
the  rocks. 

The  next  day  they  continued  thirty -two  miles 
to  the  northwest,  keeping  along  the  river,  which 
still  ran  in  its  deep-cut  channel.  Here  and 
there  a  shady  beach  or  a  narrow  strip  of  soil, 
fringed  with  dwarf  willows,  would  extend  for  a 
little  distance  along  the  foot  of  the  cliffs,  and 
sometimes  a  reach  of  still  vvuter  would  inter- 
vene like  a  smooth  mirror  between  the  fd!aming 
rapids. 

^  As  through  the  preceding  daj,  they  journeyed 
on  without  finding,  except  in  one  instance,  any 
place  where  they  could  get  down  to  the  river*» 


BEOSHONIE  LODGES, 


858 


edge,  and  they  were  fain  to  allay  the  thirst  caused 
by  hard  travelling,  with  the  water  collected  in 
the  hollow  of  the  rocks. 

la  the  course  of  their  march  on  the  following 
rooming,  they  fell  into  a  beaten  horse  path 
leading  along  the  river,  which  showed  that 
they  were  in  the  neighborhood  of  some  Indian 
village  or  encampment.  They  had  not  proceeded 
far  along  it,  when  they  met  with  two  Shoshonies, 
or  Snakes.  They  approached  with  some  appear- 
ance of  uneasiness,  and  accosting  Mr  Hunt,  held 
up  a  knife,  which  by  signs  they  let  him  know 
they  had  received  from  some  of  the  white  men 
of  the  advance  partiei.  It  was  with  some  diffi- 
culty that  Mr.  Hunt  prevailed  upon  one  of  the 
savages  to  conduct  him  to  the  lodges  of  his  peo- 
ple. Striking  into  a  trail  or  path  which  led  up 
from  the  river,  he  guided  them  for  some  distance 
in  the  prairie,  until  they  came  in  sight  of  a  num- 
ber of  lodges  made  of  straw,  and  shaped  like 
hay  stacks.  Their  approach,  as  on  former  occa- 
sions, caused  the  wildest  affright  among  the  in- 
habitants. The  women  hid  such  of  their  chil- 
di'en  as  were  too  large  to  be  carried,  and  too 
small  to  take  care  of  themselves,  under  straw, 
and,  clasping  their  infants  to  their  breasts,  fled 
across  the  prairie.  The  men  awaited  the  ap- 
proach of  the  strangers,  but  evidently  in  great 
alarm. 

Mr.  Hunt  entered  the  lodges,  and,  as  he  was 
looking  about,  observed  where  the  children  were 
concealed  ;  their  black  eyes  glistening  like  those 
of  snakes,  from  beneath    the  straw.     He  lifted 

23 


3d4 


ASTORIA, 


up  the  covering  to  look  at  them ;  the  poor  little 
beiogs  were  horribly  frightened,  and  their  fatliers 
stood  trembling,  as  if  a  beast  of  prey  were  about 
to  pounce  upon  their  brood. 

The  friendly  manner  of  Mr.  Hunt  soon  dis- 
pelled these  apprehensions ;  he  succeeded  in 
purchasing  some  excellent  dried  salmon,  and  a 
dog,  an  animal  much  esteemed  as  food  by  the 
natives ;  and  when  he  returned  to  the  river  one 
of  the  Indians  accompanied  him.  He  now  came 
to  where  the  lodges  were  frequent  along  the 
banks,  and,  after  a  day's  journey  of  twenty-six 
miles  to  the  northwest,  encamped  in  a  populous 
neighborhood.  Forty  or  fifty  of  the  natives  soon 
visited  the  camp,  conducting  themselves  in  a  very 
amicaUe  manner.  They  were  well  dad,  and  all 
had  buffalo  robes,  which  they  procured  from  some 
of  the  hunting  tribes  in  exchange  for  salmon. 
Their  habitations  were  very  comfortable ;  each 
had  its  pile  of  wormwood  at  the  door  for  fuel, 
and  within  was  abundance  of  salmon,  some  fresh, 
but  the  greater  part  cured.  When  the  white 
men  visited  the  lodges,  however,  the  women  and 
children  hid  themselves  through  fear.  Among 
the  supplies  obtained  here  were  two  dogs,  on 
which  our  travellers  breakfasted,  and  found  them 
to  be  very  excellent,  well-flavored,  and  hearty 
i[)od. 

In  the  course  of  the  three  following  days  they 
made  about  sixty-three  miles,  generally  in  a 
northwest  direction.  They  met  with  many  of 
the  natives  in  their  straw-built  cabins,  who  re- 
oeived  them  wiihout  alarm.     About  their  dwell- 


ON  SHORT  RATIONS, 


^i 


1  some 
ftlmon. 
each 
fuel, 
fresh, 
white 
Q  and 
jnong 
9,  on 
them 
earty 

they 
in   a 


ings  were  immense  quantities  of  the  heads  And 
skins  of  salmon,  the  best  part  of  which  had  been 
cured,  and  hidden  in  the  ground.  The  women 
were  badly  clad  ;  the  children  worse  ;  their  gar- 
ments were  buffalo  robes,  or  the  skins  of  foxes, 
hares,  and  badgers,  and  sometimes  the  skins  of 
ducks,  sewed  together,  with  the  plumage*  on. 
Most  of  the  skins  must  have  been  procured  by 
traffic  with  other  tribes,  or  in  distant  hunting 
excursions,  for  the  naked  prairies  in  the  neigh- 
borhood afforded  few  animals,  excepting  horses, 
which  were  abundant  There  were  signs  of 
buffaloes  having  been  there,  but  a  long  time 
before. 

On  the  15th  of  November  they  made  twenty- 
eight  miles  along  the  river,  which  was  entirely 
free  from  rapids.  The  shores  were  lined  with 
dead  salmon,  which  tainted  the  whole  atmosphere. 
The  natives  whom  they  met  spoke  of  Mr.  Reed's 
party  having  passed  through  that  neighborhood. 
In  the  course  of  the  day  Mr.  Hunt  saw  a  few 
horses,  but  the  owners  of  them  took  care  to 
hurry  them  out  of  the  way.  AH  the  provisions 
they  were  able  to  procure,  were  two  dogs  and  a 
salmon.  On  the  following  day  they  were  still 
worse  off,  having  to  subsist  on  parched  corn,  and 
the  remains  of  their  dried  meat.  The  river  this 
day  had  resumed  its  turbulent  character,  forcing 
its  way  through  a  narrow  channel  between  steep 
rocks,  and  down  violent  rapids.  They  made 
twenty  miles  over  a  rugged  road,  gradually  ap- 
proaching a  mountain  in  the  northwest,  covered 
with  snow,  which  had  been  in  sight  for  three 
days  past. 


'I 


356 


ASTORIA. 


On  the  17th  they  met  with  several  Indians, 
one  of  whom  had  a  horso.  Mr.  Hunt  was  ex- 
tremely desirous  of  obtaining  it  as  a  pack-horse  ; 
for  the  men,  worn  down  by  fatigue  and  hunger, 
found  the  loads  of  twenty  pounds*  weight  which 
they  had  to  carry,  daily  growing  heavier  and 
moi%  galling.  The  Indians,  however,  along  this 
river,  were  never  willing  to  part  with  their 
horHes,  having  none  to  spare.  The  owner  of  the 
steed  in  question  seemed  proof  against  all  temp- 
tation ;  article  after  article  of  great  value  in  In- 
dian eyes  was  oflfered  and  refused.  The  charms 
of  an  old  tin-kettle,  however,  were  irresistibte, 
and  a  bargain  was  concluded. 

A  great  part  of  the  following  morning  was 
consumed  in  lightening  the  packages  of  the  men 
and  arranging  the  load  for  the  horse.  At  this 
encampment  there  was  no  wood  for  fuel,  even  the 
worifawood  on  which  they  had  frequently  de- 
pended, having  disappeared.  For  the  two  last 
days  they  had  made  thirty  miles  to  the  north- 
west 

On  the  19  th  of  November,  Mr.  Hunt  was 
lucky  enough  to  purchase  another  horse  for  his 
own  use,  giving  in  exchange  a  tomahawk,  a  knife, 
a  fire  steel,  and  some  beads  and  gartering.  In 
an  evil  hour,  however,  he  took  the  advice  of 
the  Indians  to  abandon  the  river,  and  follow  a 
road  or  trail,  leading  into  the  prairies.  He  soon 
had  cause  to  regret  the  change.  The  road  led 
across  a  dreary  waste,  without  verdure ;  and 
where  there  was  neither  fountain,  nor  pool,  nor 
running  stream.     The  men  now  began   to  ex- 


A  LIQHT  BUPPEH. 


857 


perience  tho  torments  of  thirst,  aggravated  by 
their  usual  diet  of  dried  fish.  The  thirst  of  the 
Canadian  voyageurs  became  so  insupportable  aa 
to  drive  them  to  the  most  revolting  means  of  al- 
laying it.  For  twenty-five  miles  did  they  toil  on 
across  this  dismal  desert,  and  laid  themselves 
down  at  night,  parched  and  disconsolate,  beside 
their  wormwood  fires  ;  looking  forward  to  still 
greater  sufferings  on  the  following  day.  Fortu- 
nately it  began  to  rain  in  the  night,  to  their  infin- 
ite relief;  the  water  soon  collected  in  puddles 
and  afforded  them  delicious  draughts. 

Refreshed  in  this  manner,  they  resumed  their 
wayfaring  as  soon  as  the  first  streaks  of  dawn 
gave  light  enough  for  them  to  see  their  path. 
The  rain  continued  all  day  so  that  they  no  longer 
Buffered  from  thirst,  but  hunger  took  its  place, 
for,  afler  travelling  thirty -three  miles  they  had 
nothing  to  Bup  on  but  a  little  parched  corn. 

The  next  day  brought  them  to  the  banks  of  a 
beautiful  little  stream,  running  to  the  west,  and 
fringed  with  groves  of  cotton-wood  and  willow. 
On  its  borders  was  an  ludian  camp,  firith  a  great 
many  horses  grazing  around  it.  Tho  inhabitants, 
too,  appeared  to  be  better  clad  than  usual.  The 
scene  was  altogether  a  cheering  one  to  the  poor 
half-famished  wanderers.  They  hastened  to  their 
lodges,  but  on  arriving  at  them  met  with  a  check 
chat  at  first  dampened  their  cheerfulness.  An 
Indian  immediately  laid  claim  to  the  horse  of  Mr. 
Hunt,  saying  that  it  had  been  stolen  from  him. 
There  was  no  disproving  a  fact  supported  by 
aumerous  bystanders,  and  which  the  horse-stealing 


858 


ASTORIA, 


i 

( 

I 

'  i 
■  I 


habita  of  the  IndianR  rendered  but  too  probablo ; 
BO  Mr.  Huut  relinquished  his  steed  to  the  claim* 
ant ;  not  being  able  to  retain  him  by  a  second 
purchase^ 

At  this  place  they  encamped  for  the  night,  and 
made  a  sumptuous  repast  upon  fish  and  a  couple 
of  dogs,  procured  from  their  Indian  neighbors. 
The  next  day  they  kept  along  the  river,  but  came 
to  a  halt  after  ten  miles'  march,  on  account  of  the 
rain.  Here  they  again  got  a  supply  of  fish  and 
dogs  from  the  natives ;  and  two  of  tiie  men  were 
fortunate  enough  each  to  get  a  horse  in  exchange 
for  a  buffalo  robe.  Oue  of  these  men  was  Pierre 
Dorion,  the  half-breed  interpreter,  to  whose  suf- 
fering family  the  horse  was  a  timely  acquisition. 
And  here  we  cannot  but  notice  the  wonderful 
patience,  perseverance,  and  hardihood  of  the  In- 
dian women,  as  exemplified  in  the  conduct  of  the 
poor  squaw  of  the  interpreter.  She  was  now 
fer  advanced  in  her  pregnancy,  and  had  two 
children  to  take  care  of;  one  four,  and  the  other 
two  years  of  age.  The  latter  of  course  she  had 
frequently  tb  carry  on  l^r  back,  in  addition  to 
the  burden  usually  imposed  upon  the  snuaw,  yet 
she  had  borne  all  her  hardships  without  a  mur- 
mur, and  throughout  this  weary  and  painful  jour- 
ney had  kept  pace  with  the  best  of  th^  pedes- 
trians. Indeed  on  various  occasions  in  the  course 
of  this  enterprise,  she  displayed  a  force  of  char- 
acter that  won  the  respect  and  applause  of  the 
white  men. 

Mr.  Hunt  endeavored  to  gather  some  informal 
tion  from  tiiese  Indians  concerning  the  country. 


MR.  HUNT  ON  HOESEFLEaH. 


359 


and  the  course  of  the  rivers.  His  communica- 
tions with  them  had  to  be  hy  signs,  and  i\  few 
words  which  he  had  learnt,  and  of  course  were 
extremely  vague.  All  that  he  could  learn  from 
them  was,  that  the  great  river,  the  Columbia,  wac 
still  far  distant,  but  he  could  ascertain  nothing  as 
to  the  route  he  ought  to  take  to  arrive  at  it. 
For  the  two  following  days  they  continued  west- 
ward upwards  of  forty  miles  along  the  little 
stream,  until  they  crossed  it  just  before  its  junc- 
tion with  Snake  S-iver,  which  they  found  still 
running  to  the  north.  Before  them  was  a  wintry- 
looking  mountain  covered  with  snow  on  all  sides. 

In  three  days  more  they  made  about  seventy 
miles;  fording  two  small  rivers,  the  watei-s  of 
which  were  very  cold.  Provisions  were  ex* 
tremely  scarce ;  their  chief  sustenance  was  port- 
able soup ;  a  meagre  diet  for  weary  pedestrians. 

On  the  27th  of  November  the  river  led  them 
into  the  mountains  through  a  rocky  defile  where 
there  was  scarcely  room  to  pass.  They  were  fre- 
quently obliged  to  unload  the  horses  to  get  them 
by  the  narrow  places ;  and  sometimes  to  wade 
through  the  water  in  getting  round  rocks  and 
butting  cliHs.  All  their  food  this  day  was  a 
beaver  which  they  had  caught  the  night  before  $ 
by  evening,  the  cravings  of  hunger  were  so 
Bharp,  and  the  prospect  of  any  supply  among  tho 
mountains  so  faint,  that  they  had  to  kill  one  of 
ilie  horses.  "  The  men,"  says  Mr.  Hunt  in  his 
journal,  "  find  the  meat  very  good,  and,  indeed, 
•o  should  I,  were  it  not  for  the  attachment  I  have 
to  the  animal." 


I  I 


360 


ABTORIA, 


Early  in  the  following  day,  after  proceeding 
ten  miles  to  the  north,  they  came  to  two  lodges 
of  Shoshonies,  who  seemed  in  nearly  as  great  an 
extremity  as  themselves,  having  just  killed  two 
horses  for  food.  They  had  no  other  provisions 
excepting  the  seed  of  a  weed  which  they  gather 
in  great  quantities,  and  pound  fine.  It  resembles 
hemp-seed.  Mr.  Hunt  purchajed  a  bag  of  it,  and 
also  some  small  pieces  of  horse  fiesh,  which  he 
began  to  relish,  pronouncing  them  <'  fat  and  ten- 
der."   ^ 

From  these  Indians  he  received  information 
that  several  white  men  had  gone  down  the  river, 
some  one  side,  and  a  good  many  on  the  other ; 
these  last  he  concluded  to  be  Mr.  Crooks  and  his 
party.  He  was  thus  released  from  much  anxiety 
about  their  safety,  especially  as  the  Indians  spoke 
about  Mr.  Crooks  having  one  of  his  dogs  yet, 
which  showed  that  he  and  his  men  had  not  been 
reduced  to  extremity  of  hunger. 

As  Mr.  Hunt  feared  that  he  might  be  several 
days  in  passing  through  this  mountain  defile,  and 
run  the  risk  of  famine,  he  encamped  in  the  neigh- 
borhood of  the  Indians,  for  the  purpose  of  bai  ter- 
ing  with  them  for  a  horse.  The  evening  was 
expended  in  ineffectual  trials.  He  offered  a  gun, 
a  buffalo  robe,  and  various  other  articles.  The 
poor  fellows  had,  probably,  like  himself,  the  fear 
of  starvation  before  their  eyes.  At  length  the 
women,  learning  the  object  of  his  pressing  solici- 
tations, and  tempting  offers,  set  up  such  a  terrible 
hue  and  cry,  that  he  was  fairly  howled  and  scolded 
from  the  ground. 


TOILSOME  PROGRESS. 


861 


The  next  morning  early,  the  Indians  seemed 
rery  desirous  to  get  rid  of  their  visitors,  fear- 
ing,  probably,  for  the  safety  of  their  horses.  In 
reply  to  Mr.  Hunt's  inquiries  about  the  moun- 
tains, they  told  him  that  he  would  have  to  slee}) 
but  three  nights  more  among  them  ;  and  that  six 
days'  travelling  would  take  him  to  the  falls  of  the 
Columbia ;  information  in  which  he  put  no  faith, 
believing  it  was  only  given  to  induce  him  to  set 
forward.  These,  he  was  told,  were  the  last 
Snakes  he  would  meet  with,  and  that  he  would 
soon  come  to  a  nation  called  Sciatogas. 

Forward  then  did  he  proceed  on  his  tedious 
f  journey,  which,  at  every  step,  grew  more  painful. 
The  road  continued  for  two  days,  through  narrow 
defiles,  where  they  were  repeatedly  obliged  to 
unload  the  horses.  Sometimes  the  river  passed 
through  such  rocky  chasms  and  under  such  steep 
precipices  that  they  had  to  leave  it,  and  make 
their  way,  with  excessive  labor,  over  immense 
bills,  almost  impassable  for  horses.  On  some  of 
the93  hills  were  a  few  pine  trees,  and  their  sum- 
mits were  covered  with  snow.  On  the  second 
day  of  this  scramble  one  of  the  himters  killed  a 
black-tailed  deer,  which  afforded  the  half-starved 
travellers  a  sumptuous  repast.  Their  progress 
these  two  days  was  twenty-eight  miles,  a  little  to 
the  northward  of  east. 

The  month  of  December  set  in  drearily,  with 
rain  in  the  valleys,  and  snow  upon  the  hills. 
They  had  to  climb  a  mountain  with  snow  to  the 
midieg,  which  increased  their  painful  toil.  A 
small  beaver  supplied  them  with  a  scanty  meal, 


862 


ASTORIA, 


whidi  they  eked  out  with  frozen  blackberries, 
haws,  and  choke-cherries,  which  they  found  in  the 
course  of  their  scramble.  Their  journey  this 
day,  though  excessively  fatiguing,  was  but  thir- 
teen miles ;  and  all  the  next  day  they  had  to 
remain  encamped,  not  being  able  to  see  half  a 
mile  ahead,  on  account  of  a  snow-storm.  Having 
nothing  else  to  eat,  they  were  compelled  to  kill 
another  of  their  horses.  The  next  day  they 
resumed  their  march  in  snow  and  rain,  but  with 
all  their  efforts  could  only  get  forward  nine  miles, 
having  for  a  part  of  the  distance  to  unload  the 
horses  atid  carry  the  packs  themselves.  On  the 
succeeding  morning  they  were  obliged  to  leave 
the  river,  and  scramble  up  the  hills.  From  the 
summit  of  these,  they  got  a  wide  view  of  the  sur- 
rounding country,  and  it  was  a  prospect  almost 
sufficient  to  make  them  despair.  In  every  direc- 
tion they  beheld  snowy  mountains,  partially 
sprinkled  with  p^^nes  and  other  evergreens,  and 
spreading  a  desert  and  toilsome  world  around 
them.  The  wind  howled  over  the  bleak  and 
wintry  landscape,  and  seemed  to  penetrate  to  the 
marrow  of  their  bones.  They  waded  on  through 
the  snow,  which  at  every  step  was  more  than 
knee  deep. 

After  toiling  in  this  way  all  day,  they  had  the 
mortification  to  find  that  they  were  but  four  miles 
distant  from  the  encampment  of  the  preceding 
night,  such  was  the  meandering  of  the  river 
among  these  dismal  hills.  Pinched  with  famine, 
exhausted  with  fatigue,  with  evening  approaching, 
and   a   wmtry    «rild    still   lengthening   as    they 


TRAVELLING  IN  A  SNOW  STORM,     868 

advanced ;  they  began  to  look  forward  with  sad 
forebodings  to  the  night's  exposure  upon  thifl 
frightful  waste.  Fortunately  they  succeeded  in 
reaching  a  cluster  of  pines  about  sunset.  Their 
axes  were  immediately  at  work  ;  they  cut  down 
trees,  piled  them  in  great  heaps,  and  soon  had 
huge  fires  "to  cheer  their  cold  and  hungry 
hearts.** 

About  three  o'clock  in  the  morning  it  again 
began  to  snow,  and  at  daybreak  they  found  them- 
selves, as  it  were,  in  a  cloud ;  scarcely  being 
able  to  distinguish  objects  at  the  distance  of  a 
hundred  yards.  Guiding  themselves  by  the  sound 
of  running  water,  they  set  out  for  the  river,  and 
by  slipping  and  sliding  contrived  to  get  down  to 
its  bank.  One  of  the  horses,  missing  his  footing, 
rolled  down  several  hundred  yards  with  his  load, 
but  sustained  no  injury.  Tlie  weather  in  the 
valley  was  less  rigorous  than  on  the  hills.  The 
snow  lay  but  ankle  deep,  and  there  was  a  quiet 
rain  now  falling.  After  creeping  along  for  six 
miles,  they  encamped  on  the  border  of  the  river. 
Being  utterly  destitute  of  provisions,  they  were 
again  compelled  to  kill  one  of  their  horses  to 
appease  their  &mishing  hunger. 


CHAPTER  XXXV. 


'■  I 


jHE  wanderers  had  now  accomplished 
four  hundred  and  seventy-two  miles  of 
their  dreary  journey  since  leaving  the 
Caldron  Linn,  how  much  further  they  had  yet  to 
travel,  and  what  hardships  to  encounter,  no  one 
knew. 

On  the  morning  of  the  6th  of  December,  they 
left  their  dismal  encampment,  but  had  scarcely 
begun  their  .iiarch,  when,  to  their  surprise,  they 
beheld  a  party  of  white  men  coming  up  along  the 
opposite  bank  of  the  river.  As  they  drew  nearer^ 
they  were  recognized  for  Mr.  Crooks  and  his 
companions.  When  they  came  opposite^  and 
could  make  themselves  heard  across  the  murmur- 
ing of  the  river,  their  first  cry  was  for  food ;  in 
fact,  they  were  almost  starved.  Mr.  Hunt  im- 
mediately returned  to  the  camp,  and  had  a  kind 
of  canoe  made  out  o^  the  skin  of  the  horse,  killed 
on  the  preceding  night.  This  was  done  after  the 
Indian  fashion,  by  drawing  up  the  edges  of  the 
ekin  with  thongs,  and  keeping  them  distended  by 
sticks  or  thwart  pieces.  In  this  frail  bark,  Sar- 
depie,  one  of  the  Canadians,  carried  over  a  por- 
tion of  the  flesh  of  the  horse  to  the  famishing 
party  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  and 
brought   back  with    him   Mr.    Crooks,   and  the 


BUFFERINGS   OF  MR.   CROOK'S  PARTY.    iB65 


Canadian,  Le  Clerc.  The  forlorn  and  wasted 
looks,  aid  starving  condition  of  these  two  men, 
struck  dismay  to  the  hearts  of  Mr.  Hunt's  follow- 
ers. They  had  been  accustomed  to  each  other's 
appearance,  ard  to  the  gradual  operation  of 
hunger  and  hardship  upon  their  frames,  but  the 
change  in  the  looks  of  these  men,  since  last  they 
parted,  was  a  type  of  the  famine  and  desolation 
of  the  land  ;  and  they  now  began  to  indulge  the 
horrible  presentiment  that  they  would  all  starve 
together,  or  be  reduced  to  the  direful  alternative 
of  casting  lots ! 

When  Mr.  Crooks  had  appeased  his  hunger, 
he  gave  Mr.  Hunt  some  account  of  his  wliyfaring. 
On  the  side  of  the  river,  along  which  he  had 
kept,  he  had  met  with  but  few  Indians,  and  those 
were  loo  miserably  poor  to  yield  much  assistance. 
For  the  first  eighteen  days  after  leaving  the 
•Caldron  Linn,  he  and  his  men  had  been  confined 
to  half  a  meal  in  twenty-four  hours ;  for  three 
days  following,  they  had  subsisted  on  a  single 
beaver,  a  few  wild  cherries,  and  the  soles  of  old 
moccasins ;  and  for  the  last  six  days,  their  only 
animal  food  had  been  the  carcass  of  a  dog.  They 
had  been  three  days'  journey  further  down  the 
river  than  Mr.  Hunt,  always  keeping  as  near  to 
its  banks  as  possible,  and  frequently  climbing  over 
sharp  and  rocky  ridges  that  projected  into  the 
stream.  At  length  they  had  arrived  to  where 
the  mountains  increased  in  height,  and  came 
closer  to  the  river,  with  perpendicular  precipices, 
which  rendered  it  impossible  to  keep  along  the 
•treara.     The  river  here   rushed  with  ihcredible 


II' 

11! 


■4 


n 


866 


ABTaRlA. 


velocity  through  a  defile  not  more  than  thirty 
yards  wide,  where  cascades  and  rapids  succeeded 
each  other  almost  without  intermission.  Even 
had  the  opposite  banks,  therefore,  been  such  as  to 
permit  a  continuance  of  their  journey,  it  would 
have  been  madness  to  attempt  to  pass  the  tu- 
multuous current,  either  on  rails  or  otherwise. 
Still  bent,  however,  on  pushing  forward,  they  at- 
tempted to  climb  the  opposing  mountains ;  and 
struggled  on  through  the  snow  for  half  a  day 
until,  coming  to  where  they  could  command  a 
prospect,  they  found  that  they  were  not  half  way 
to  the  summit,  and  that  moujitain  upon  mountain 
lay  piled  beyond  them,  in  wintry  desolation. 
Famished  and  emaciated  as  they  were,  to  con- 
tinue forward  would  be  to  perish ;  their  only 
chance  seemed  to  be  to  regain  the  river,  and 
retrace  their  steps  up  its  banks.  It  was  in  this 
forlorn  and  retrograde  march  that  they  had  met 
Mr.  Hunt  aud  his  party. 

Mr.  Crooks  also  gave  information  of  some 
others  of  their  fellow  adventurers.  He  had 
spoken  several  days  previously  with  Mr.  Reed 
and  Mr.  M'Kenzie,  who  with  their  men  were  on 
the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  where  it  was  im- 
possible to  get  over  to  them.  They  informed 
jiim  that  Mr.  M'Lellan  had  struck  across  from 
iJie  little  river  above  the  mountains,  in  the  hope 
of  falling  in  with  some  of  the  tribe  of  Flatheads, 
who  inhabit  the  western  skirts  of  the  Rocky 
range.  As  the  companions  of  Reed  and  M'Ken- 
zie.were  picked  men,  and  had  found  provisions 
more  abundant  on   their  side  of  the  river;  they 


INaURMOUNTABLE  DIFFICULTIEB,     8^1 


■•*»■' 


were  in  better  condition,  and  more  fitted  to  con< 
tend  with  the  difficulties  of  the  country,  than 
ihose  of  Mr.  Cooics,  and  when  he  lost  sight  of 
them,  were  pushing  onward,  down  the  course  of 
the  river. 

Mr.  Hunt  took  a  night  to  revolve  over  his 
critical  situation,  and  to  determine  what  was  to 
be  done.  No  time  was  to  be  lost ;  he  had  twenty 
men  and  more,  in  his  own  party,  to  provide  for, 
and  Mr.  Crooks  and  his  men  to  relieve.  To 
linger  would  be  to  starve.  The  idea  of  retracing 
his  steps  was  intolerable,  and,  notwithstanding  all 
the  discouraging  accounts  of  the  ruggedness  of 
the  mountains  lower  down  the  river,  he  would 
have  been  disposed  to  attempt  them,  but  the 
depth  of  the  snow  with  which  they  were  covered 
deterred  him;  having  already  experienced  the 
impossibility  of  forcing  his  way  against  such  an 
impediment. 

The  only  alternative,  therefore,  appeared  to 
be,  to  return  and  seek  the  Indian  bands  scattered 
along  the  small  rivers  above  the  mountains. 
Perhaps,  from  some  of  these  he  might  procure 
horses  enough  to  support  him  until  he  could 
reach  the  Columbia ;  for  he  still  cherished  the 
hope  of  arriving  at  that  river  in  the  course  of  the 
winter,  though  he  was  apprehensive  that  few  of 
Mr.  Crooks*  party  would  be  sufficiently  strong  to 
follow  him.  Even  in  adopting  this  course,  he 
had  to  make  up  his  mind  to  the  certainty  of  sev- 
eral days  of  famine  at  the  outset,  for  it  would 
take  that  time  to  reach  the  last  Indian  lodges 
from  which  he  had  parted,  and  until  they  should 


8B8 


ABTORTA, 


nri'ive  there,  his  people  would  have  nothing  to 
subsist  upon  but  haws  and  wild  ^berries,  except- 
ing one  miserable  horse,  which  was  little  better 
than  skin  and  bone. 

After  a  night  of  sleepless  cogitation,  Mr.  Hunt 
announced  to  his  men  the  dreary  alternative  he 
had  adopted,  and  preparations  were  made  to  take 
Mr.  Crooks  and  Le  Clerc  across  the  river,  with 
the  remainder  of  the  meat,  as  the  other  party 
were  to  keep  up  along  the  opposite  bank.  The 
skin  canoe  had  unfortunately  been  lost  in  the 
niglit ;  a  raft  was  constructed  therefore,  after  the 
manner  of  the  natives,  of  bundles  of  willows,  but  ' 
it  could  not  be  floated  across  the  impetuous  cur- 
rent. The  men  were  directed,  in  consequence, 
to  keep  on  along  the  river  by  themselves,  while 
Mr.  Crooks  and  Le  Clerc  would  proceed  with 
Mr.  Hunt.  They  all,  then,  took  up  their  retro- 
grade march  with  drooping  spirits. 

In  a  little  while,  it  was  found  that  Mr.  Crooks 
and  Le  Clerc  were  so  feeble  as  to  walk  with 
difficulty,  so  that  Mr.  Hunt  was  obliged  to  retard 
his  pace,  that  they  might  keep  up  with  him. 
His  men  grew  impatient  at  the  delay.  They 
murmured  that  they  had  a  long  and  desolate 
region  to  traverse,  before  they  could  arrive  at 
the  point  where  they  might  expect  to  find  horses; 
that  it  was  impossible  for  Crooks  and  Le  Clerc, 
tn  their  feeble  condition,  to  get  over  it ;  that  to 
remain  with  them  would  only  be  to  starve  in 
their  company.  They  importuned  Mr.  Hunt, 
therefore,  to  leave  these  unfortunate  men  to  their 
fate,  nnd  think  only  of  the  safety  of  himself  and 


MR.   CROOKS  AND  LE  CLERC  LEFT.     Z^^ 


ing  to 
xcept- 
better 

.  Hunt 
ive  he 
to  take 
r,  with 
party 
.     The 
in   the 
Fter  the 
)ws,  but 
»U8  cur- 
quence, 
s,  while 
id   with 
retro- 
Crooks 
k    with 
tt  retard 
h  him. 
They 
desolate 
prive  at 
horses ; 
J  Clerc, 
that  to 
arve   in 
,    Hunt, 
to  their 
self  and 


Lis  party.  Finding  him  not  to  be  moved  either 
by  entreaties  or  their  clamors,  they  began  to 
proceed  without  him,  singly  and  in  parties. 
Among  those  who  thus  went  off  was  Pierre 
Dorion,  the  interpreter.  Pierre  owned  the  only 
remaining  horse ;  which  was  now  a  mere  skel- 
eton. Mr.  Hunt  had  suggested,  in  their  present 
extremity,  that  it  should  be  killed  for  food ;  to 
which  the  half-breed  flatly  refused  his  assent, 
and  cudgeling  the  miserable  animal  forward, 
pushed  on  sullenly,  with  the  air  of  a  man  dog- 
gedly determined  to  quarrel  for  his  right.  In 
this  way  Mr.  Hunt  saw  his  men,  one  after 
another,  break  away,  until  but  five  remained  to 
bear  him  company. 

On  the  following  morning,  another  raft  was 
made,  on  which  Mr.  Crooks  and  Le  Clerc  again 
attempted  to  ferry  themselves  across  the  river, 
but  after  repeated  trials  had  to  give  up  in 
despair.  This  caused  additional  delay ;  after 
which  they  continued  to  crawl  forward  at  a 
snail's  pace.  Some  of  the  men  who  had  remained 
.with  Mr.  Hunt  now  became  impatient  of  these 
incumbrances,  and  urged  him  clamorously  to 
push  forward,  crying  out  that  they  should  all 
starve.  The  night  which  succeeded  was  intensely 
cold,  so  that  one  of  the  men  was  severely  frost- 
bitten. In  the  course  of  the  night,  Mr.  Crooks 
was  taken  ill,  and  in  the  morning  was  still  more 
incompetent  to  travel.  Their  situation  was  now 
desperate,  for  their  stock  of  provisions  was  re- 
duced to  three  beaver  skins.  Mr.  Hunt,  there- 
fore, resolved  to  push  on,  overtake  his  people,  and 
24 


li 


970 


ASTORIA, 


Insist  upon  having  the  horse  of  Pierre  Dorion 
lacriflced  for  the  relief  of  all  hands.  Accord- 
ingly, he  left  two  of  his  men  to  help  Crooks  and 
Le  Clerc  on  their  way,  giving  them  two  of  the 
beaver  skins  for  their  support ;  the  remaining 
fkin  he  retained,  as  provision  for  himself  and  the 
three  other  men  who  struck  forward  with  him. 


Do  f  ion 
Lccord- 
ks  ntid 
of  the 
laining 
ind  the 
him. 


CHAPTER  XXXVI. 

|LL  that  day,  Mr.  Hant  and  his  thrae 
comrades  travelled  without  eating.  At 
night  they  made  a  tantalizing  supper 
on  their  heaver  skin,  and  were  nearly  exhausted 
by  hunger  and  cold.  The  next  day,  December 
10th,  they  overtook  the  advance  party,  who  were 
all  as  much  famished  as  themselves,  some  of 
them  not  having  eaten  since  the  morning  of  the 
seventh.  Mr.  Hunt  now  proposed  the  sacrifice 
of  Pierre  Dorion*s  skeleton  horse.  Here  he 
again  met  with  positive  and  vehement  opposition 
from  the  half-breed,  who  was  too  sullen  and  vin- 
dictive a  fellow  to  be  easily  dealt  with.  What 
was  singular,  the  men,  though  suffering  such 
pinching  hunger,  interfered  in  favor  of  the 
horse.  They  represented,  that  it  was  better  to 
keep  on  as  long  as  possible  without  resorting  to 
this  last  resource.  Possibly  the  Indians,  of 
whom  they  were  in  quest,  might  have  shifted 
their  encampment  in  which  case  it  would  be 
time  enough  to  kill  the  horse  to  escape  starva- 
tion. Mr.  Hunt,  therefore,  was  prevailed  upon 
to  grant  Pierre  Dorion's  horse  a  reprieve. 

Fortunately,  they  had  not  proceeded  much 
further,  when,  towards  evening,  they  came  in 
tight  of  a  lodge  of  Shoshonies,  with  a  number 


Imti 


I 


872 


ASTORIA. 


of  horses  grazing  around  it.  Twe  sight  was  as 
unexpected  as  it  was  joyous,  Having  seen  no  In- 
dians in  this  neighborhood  as  they  passed  down 
the  river,  they  must  have  subsequently  come 
out  from  among  the  mountains.  Mr.  Hunt,  who 
first  descried  them,  checked  the  eagerness  of  his 
companions,  knowing  the  unwillingness  of  these 
Indians  to  part  with  their  horses,  and  their  apt- 
ness to  hurry  them  off  and  conceal  them,  in  case 
of  an  alarm.  This  was  no  time  to  risk  such  a 
disappointment.  Approaching,  therefore,  stealth- 
ily and  silently,  they  came  upon  the  savages  by 
surprise,  who  fled  in  terror.  Five  of  their 
horses  were  eagerly  seized,  and  one  was  dis- 
patched upon  the  spot.  The  carcass  was  imme- 
diately cut  up,  and  a  part  cf  it  hastily  cooked 
and  ravenously  devoured.  A  man  was  now  sent 
on  horseback  with  a  supply  of  the  flesh  to  Mr. 
Crooks  and  his  companions.  He  reached  them 
in  the  night;  they  were  so  famished  that  the 
supply  sent  them  seemed  but  to  aggravate  their 
hunger,  and  they  were  almost  tempted  to  kill 
and  eat  the  horse  that  had  brought  the  messen- 
ger. Availing  themselves  of  the  assistance  of 
the  animal,  they  reached  the  camp  early  in  the 


mornmg. 


On  arriving  there,  Mr.  Crooks  was  shocked  to 
And  that,  while  the  people  on  this  side  of  the 
river  were  amply  supplied  with  provisions,  none 
had  been  sent  to  his  own  forlorn  and  famishing 
men  on  the  opposite  bank.  He  immediately 
caused  a  skin  canoe  to  be  constructed,  and  called 
out  to  his  men  to  fill  their  camp-kettles  with 


EFFECT  OF  FAMINE  ON  THE  PARTY,    373 


ht  was  aa 
>een  no  In- 
ssed  down 
ntly  come 
Hunt,  who 
less  of  his 
8  of  these 
their  apt- 
»m,  in  case 
isk  such  a 
re,  stealth- 
ravages  by 

of  their 
5  was  dis- 
was  imme- 
Lily  cooked 

now  sent 
esh  to  Mr. 
ched  them 

that  the 
ivate  their 
ted  to  kill 
le  messen- 
istance  of 
arly  in  the 

shocked  to 
ide  of  the 
sions,  none 
famishing 
nmediately 
and  called 
ittles  with 


water  and  hang  them  over  the  fire,  that  no  time 
might  be  lost  in  cooking  the  meat  the  moment  it 
should  be  received.  The  river  was  so  narrow, 
though  deep,  that  everything  could  be  distinctly 
heard  and  seen  across  it.  The  kettles  were 
placed  on  the  fire,  and  the  water  was  boiling  by 
the  time  the  canoe  was  completed.  When  all 
was  ready,  however,  no  one  would  undertake  to 
ferry  the  meat  across.  A  vajue  and  almost 
superstitious  terror  had  infected  the  minds  of 
Mr.  Hunt's  followers,  enfeebled  and  rendered 
imaginative  of  horrors  by  the  dismal  scenes  and 
sufferings  through  which  they  had  passed.  They 
regarded  the  haggard  crew,  hovering  like  spectres 
of  famine  on  the  opposite  bank,  with  indefinite 
feelings  of  awe  and  apprehension :  as  if  some- 
thing desperate  and  dangerous  was  to  be  feared 
from  them. 

Mr.  Crooks  tried  in  vain  to  reason  or  shame 
them  out  of  this  singular  state  of  mind.  He 
then  attempted  to  navigate  the  canoe  himself, 
but  found  his  strength  incompetent  to  brave  the 
impetuous  current.  The  good  feelings  of  Ben 
Jones,  the  Kentuckian,  at  length  overcame  his 
fears,  and  he  ventured  over.  The  supply  ho 
brought  was  received  with  trembling  avidity. 
A  poor  Canadian,  however,  named  Jean  Baptiste 
Prevost,  whom  famine  had  rendered  wild  and 
desperate,  ran  frantically  about  the  bank,  after 
Jones  had  returned,  crying  out  to  Mr.  Hunt  to 
send  the  canoe  for  him,  and  take  him  from  that 
horrible  region  of  famine,  declaring  that  other- 
ffiBQ  he  would  never  march  another  step,  but 
would  lie  down  there  and  die. 


I-I  i 


374 


ASTORIA. 


1 1 


The  canoe  was  shortly  sent  over  again,  under 
the  management  of  Joseph  Delauny,  with  further 
enpplies.  Prevost  immediately  pressed  forward 
to  embark.  Delaunay  refused  to  adniit  him, 
telling  him  that  there  was  now  a  9ufficient  supply 
of  meat  on  his  side  of  the  river.  He  replied 
that  it  was  not  cooked,  and  he  should  starve  be- 
fore h  was  ready ;  he  implored,  therefore,  to  be 
taken  where  he  could  get  something  to  appease 
his  hunger  immediately.  Finding  the  canoe 
putting  off  without  him,  he  forced  himself 
aboard.  As  he  drew  near  the  opposite  shore, 
and  beheld  meat  roasting  before  the  fire,  he 
jumped  up,  shouted,  clapped  his  hands,  and 
danced  in  a  delirium  of  joy,  until  he  upset  the 
canoe.  The  poor  wretch  was  swept  away  by 
the  current  and  drowned,  and  it  was  with  ex- 
treme difficulty  that  Delaunay  reached  the  shore. 

Mr.  Hunt  now  sent  all  his  men  forward  ex- 
cepting two  or  three.  In  the  evening  he  caused 
another  horse  to  be  killed,  and  a  canoe  to  be 
made  out  of  the  skin,  in  which  he  sent  over  a 
further  supply  of  meat  to  the  opposite  party. 
The  canoe  brought  back  John  Day,  the  Kentucky 
hunter,  who  came  to  join  his  former  employer 
and  commander,  Mr.  Crooks.  Poor  Day,  once 
so  active  and  vigorous,  was  now  reduced  to  a 
oonditi''>n  even  more  feeble  and  emaciated  than 
his  coLipanions.  Mr.  Crooks  had  such  a  value 
for  the  man,  on  account  of  his  past  services  and 
faithful  character,  that  he  determined  not  to  quit 
him;  he  exhorted  Mr.  Hunt,  however,  to  pro- 
ceed forward,  and  join  the  party,  as  his  presence 


EMERGING  FROM  THE  MOUNTAINS.    875 


was  all  important  to  the  conduct  of  the  expedi- 
tion. One  of  the  Canadians,  Jean  Baptiste  Du- 
breuil,  likewise  remained  with  Mr.  Crooks. 

Mr.  Hunt  left  two  horses  with  them,  and  a 
part  of  the  carcass  of  the  last  that  had  been 
killed.  This,  he  hoped,  would  be  sufficient  to 
sustain  them  until  thej  should  reach  the  Indian 
encampment. 

One  of  the  chief  dangers  attending  the  en- 
feebled condition  of  Mr.  Crooks  and  his  compan- 
ions, was  their  being  overtaken  by  the  Indians 
whose  horses  had  been  seized :  though  Mr.  Hunt 
hoped  that  he  had  guarded  against  any  resentment 
on  the  part  of  the  savages,  by  leaving  various 
articles  in  their  lodge,  more  than  sufficient  to 
compensate  for  the  outrage  he  had  been  compelled 
to  commit. 

Resuming  his  onward  course,  Mr.  Hunt  came 
up  with  his  people  in  the  evening.  The  next 
day,  December  13th,  be  beheld  several  Indiafis, 
with  three  horses,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
river,  and  af\er  a  time  came  to  the'  two  lodges 
which  he  had  seen  on  going  down.  Here  he 
endeavored  in  vain  to  barter  a  rifle  for  a  horse, 
but  again  succeeded  in  ejecting  the  purchase 
with  an  old  tin  kettle,  aided  by  a  few  beads. 

The  two  succeeding  days  were  cold  and 
stormy;  the  snow  was  augmenting,  and  there 
was  a  good  deal  of  ice  running  in  the  river. 
Their  road,  however,  was  becoming  easier  ;  they 
^ere  getting  out  of  the  hills,  and  finally  emerged 
Into  the  open  country,  after  twenty  days  of  fa- 
tigue, famine,  and  hardship  of  every  kind,  in  the 


jTrT" 


\ 


876 


ABTORIA. 


ineffectual  attempt  to  find  a  passage  down  the 
river. 

They  now  encamped  on  a  little  willowed 
stream,  running  from  the  east,  which  they  had 
crossed  on  the  26th  of  November.  Here  they 
found  a  dozen  lodges  of  Shoshonies,  recently 
arrived,  who  informed  them  that  had  they  per- 
severed along  the  river,  they  would  have  found 
their  difficulties  augment  until  they  became 
absolutely  insurmountable.  This  intelligence 
added  to  the  anxiety  of  Mr.  Hunt  for  the  fate 
of  Mr.  M'Kenzie  and  his  people,  who  had 
kept  on. 

Mr.  Hunt  now  followed  up  the  little  river, 
and  encamped  at  some  lodges  of  Shoshonies, 
from  whom  he  procured  a  couple  of  horses,  a 
dog,  a  few  dried  fish,  and  some  roots  and  dried 
cherries.  Two  or  three  days  were  exhausted  in 
obtaining  information  about  the  route,  and  what 
time  it  would  take  to  get  to  the  Sciatogas,  a  hos- 
pitable tribe,  on  the  west  of  the  mountains,  re- 
presented as  having  many  horses.  The  replies 
were  various,  but  concurred  in  saying- that  the 
distance  vas  great,  and  would  occupy  from 
seventeen  to  twenty-one  nights.  Mr.  Hunt  then 
tried  to  procure  a  guide  ;  but  though  he  sent  to 
various  lodges  up  and  down  the  river,  offering 
articles  of  great  value  in  Indian  estimatico,  no 
one  woMd  venture.  The  snow,  they  said,  was 
waist  deep  in  the  mountains ;  and  to  all  his 
offers  they  shook  their  heads,  gave  a  shiver,  and 
replied,  "  we  shall  freeze !  we  shall  freeze ! "  at 
the  sam.e  time  they  urged  him  to  remain  and  pass 
the  winter  amon;:  them. 


A  FORKED  TONGUE.'* 


877 


Mr.  Hunt  was  io  a  dismal  dilemma.  To  at- 
tempt the  mountains  without  a  guide,  would  be 
certain  death  to  him  and  all  his  people  ;  to  re< 
main  there,  after  having  already  been  so  long  on 
the  journey,  and  at  such  great  expense,  was 
worse  to  him,  he  said,  than  two  "  deaths."  He 
now  changed  his  tone  with  the  Indians,  charged 
them  with  deceiving  him  in  respect  to  the  moun- 
tains, and  talking  with  a  '*  forked  tongue,"  or,  in 
other  words,  with  lying.  He  upbraided  them 
with  their  want  of  courage,  and  told  them  they 
were  women,  to  shrink  from  the  perils  of  such  a 
journey.  At  length  one  of  them,  piqued  by  his 
taunts,  or  tempted  by  his  offers,  agreed  to  be  his 
guide ;  for  which  he  was  to  receive  a  gun,  a 
pistol,  three  knives,  two  horses,  and  a  little  of 
every  article  in  possession  of  the  party ;  a  re- 
ward sufficient  to  make  him  one  of  the  wealthiest 
of  his  vagabond  nation. 

Once  more,  then,  on  the  21st  of  December, 
they  set  out  upon  their  wayfaring,  with  newly 
excited  spirits.  Two  other  Indians  accompanied 
their  guide,  who  led  them  immediately  back  to 
Snake  River,  which  they  followed  down  for  a 
short  distance,  in  search  of  some  Indian  rafts 
made  of  reeds,  on  which  they  might  cross.  Find 
ing  none,  Mr.  Hunt  caused  a  horse  to  be  killed, 
and  a  canoe  to  be  made  out  of  its  skin.  Here, 
on  the  opposite  bank,  they  saw  the  thirteen  men 
of  Mr.  Crook's  party,  who  had  continued  up  along 
the  river.  They  told  Mr.  Hunt,  across  the 
stream,  that  they  had  not  seen  Mr.  Crooks,  and 
the  two  men  who  had  remained  with  him,  since 
the  day  that  he  had  separated  from  them. 


378 


AST  OBI  A, 


The  canoe  proving  too  small,  another  horse 
wus  killed,  and  the  skin  of  it  joined  to  that  of  the 
first.  Night  came  on  before  the  little  bark  had 
made  mon3  than  two  voyages.  Being  badly  made 
it  was  taken  apart  and  put  together  again,  by  the 
light  of  the  fire.  The  night  was  cold ;  the  men 
were  weary  and  disheartened  with  such  varied 
and  incessant  toil  and  hardship.  They  crouched, 
dull  and  drooping,  around  their  fires  ;  many  of 
them  bet^an  to  express  a  wish  to  remain  where 
they  v;ere  for  the  winter.  The  very  necessity 
of  crossing  the  river  dismayed  some  of  them  in 
their  present  enfeebled  and  dejected  state.  It 
was  rapid  and  turbulent,  and  ailed  with  floating 
ice,  and  they  remembered  that  two  of  their  com- 
rades  had  already  perished  in  its  waters.  Others 
looked  ^'^rward  with  misgivings  to  the  long  and 
dismal  journey  through  lonesome  regions  that 
awaited  them,  when  they  should  have  passed  this 
dreary  flood. 

At  an  early  hour  of  the  morning,  December 
23d,  they  began  to  cross  the  river.  Much  ice 
had  formed  during  the  night,  and  they  were 
obliged  to  break  it  for  some  distance  on  each 
shore.  At  length  they  all  got  over  in  safety  to 
the  west  side ;  and  their  spirits  rose  on  having 
achieved  this  perilous  passage.  Here  they  were 
rejoined  by  the  people  of  Mr,  Crooks,  who  had 
with  them  a  horse  and  a  dog,  which  they  had 
recently  procured.  The  poor  fellows  were  in  the 
most  squalid  and  emaciated  state.  Three  of 
them  were  so  completely  prostrated  in  strength 
And  spirits,  that  they  expressed  a  wish  to  remain 


*'THE  ACCURSED  MAD  RTVEU:' 


379 


among  the  Snakes.  Mr.  Hunt,  therefore,  gave 
them  the  canoe,  that  they  might  cross  the  river, 
and  a  few  articles,  with  which  to  procure  neces- 
saries, until  they  should  meet  with  Mr.  Crooks. 
There  was  another  man,  named  Michael  Carriere, 
who  was  almost  equally  reduced,  but  he  deter- 
mined to  proceed  with  his  comrades,  who  were 
now  incorporated  with  the  party  of  Mr.  Hunt 
After  the  day's  exertions  they  encamped  together 
on  the  banks  of  the  river.  This  was  the  last 
night  they  were  to  spend  upon  its  borders.  More 
than  eight  hundred  miles  of  hard  travelling,  and 
many  weary  days,  had  it  cost  them ;  and  the 
su^erings  connected  with  it  rendered  it  hateful 
in  their  remembrance,  so  that  the  Canadian  voy- 
ageurs  always  spoke  of  it  as  *'  La  maudite  riviere 
enrag^e  "  —  the  accursed  mad  river  —  thus  ooup^ 
ling  a  malediction  with  its  name. 


0  remain 


tf*'' 


)\ 


CHAPTER    XXXVII. 


111! 

I 


N  the  24th  of  December,  all  things  being 
arranged,  Mr.  Hunt  turned  his  back 
upon  the  disastrous  .  banks  of  Snake 
River,  and  struck  his  course  westward  for  the 
mountains.  His  party  being  augmented  by  the 
late  followers  of  Mr.  Crooks,  amounted  now  to 
thirty-two  white  men,  three  Indians,  and  the 
squaw  and  two  children  of  Pierre  Dorion.  Five 
jaded,  half-starved  hoi*ses  were  laden  with  their 
luggage,  and,  in  case  of  need,  were  to  furnish 
them  with  provisions.  They  travelled  painfully 
about  fourteen  miles  a  day,  over  plains  and 
among  bills,  rendered  dreary  by  occasional  falls 
of  snow  and  rain.  Their  only  sustenance  was  a 
scanty  meal  of  horseflesh  once  in  four-and-twenty 
hours. 

On  the  third  day  the  poor  Canadian,  Carriere, 
one  of  the  famished  party  of  Mr.  Crooks,  gave  up 
in  despair,  and  lying  down  upon  the  ground  de- 
clared he  could  go  no  further.  Efforts  were 
made  to  cheer  him  up,  but  it  was  found  that  the 
poor  fellow  was  absolutely  exhausted  and  could 
not  keep  on  his  legs.  He  was  mounted,  there- 
fore, upon  one  of  the  horses,  though  the  forlorn 
animal  was  in  little  better  plight  than  himself. 

On  the  28th,  they  came  upon  a  small  strea  u 


A   SMALL  ADDITION. 


881 


le  was  a 


yarnere. 


winding  to  the  north,  through  a  fine  level  valley ; 
the  mountaina  recedin,"'  on  each  side.  Here 
their  Indian  friends  pointed  out  a  chain  of  woody 
mountains  to  the  left,  running  north  and  south, 
and  covered  with  snow ;  over  which  they  would 
have  to  pass.  They  kept  along  the  valley  for 
twenty-one  miles  on  the  29lh,  suffering  much 
from  a  continued  fall  of  snow  and  rain,  and  being 
twice  obliged  to  ford  the  icy  stream.  Early  in 
the  following  morning  the  squaw  of  Pierre  Do- 
rion,  who  had  hitherto  kept  on  without  murmur- 
ing or  flinching,  was  suddenly  taken  in  labor,  and 
enriched  her  husband  with  another  child.  As  the 
fortitude  and  good  conduct  of  the  poor  woman 
had  gained  for  her  the  good-will  of  the  party, 
her  situation  caused  concern  and  perplexity. 
Pierre,  however,  treated  the  matter  as  an  occur- 
rence that  could  soon  be  arranged  and  need 
cause  no  delay.  He  remained  by  his  wife  in  the 
camp,  with  his  other  children  and  his  horse,  and 
promised  soon  to  rejoin  the  main  body,  who  pro- 
ceeded on  their  march. 

Finding  that  the  little  river  entered  the  moun- 
tains, they  abandoned  it,  and  turned  off  for  a  few 
miles  among  hills.  Here  another  Canadian, 
named  La  £ont4,  gave  out,  and  had  to  be  helped 
on  horseback.  As  the  horse  was  too  weak  to 
bear  both  him  and  his  pack,  Mr.  Hunt  took 
the  latter  upon  his  own  shoulders.  Thus,  with 
difficulties  augmenting  at  every  step,  they  urged 
their  toilsome  way  among  the  hills,  half  famished 
and  faint  at  heart,  when  they  came  to  where  a 
fair  valley  spread  out  before  them,  of  great  ex- 


882 


ASTORIA. 


, 


(111   I 


Hi 


r«nt  and  several  leagues  in  width,  with  a  bean* 
tifiil  stream  meandering  through  it.  A  genial 
climate  seemed  to  prevail  here,  for  though  the 
snow  lay  upon  all  the  mountains  within  sight, 
there  was  none  to  be  seen  in  the  valley.  The 
travellers  gazed  with  delight  upon  ^his  serene, 
sunny  landscape,  but  their  joy  was  complete  on 
beholding  six  lodges  of  Shoshonies  pitched  upon 
the  borders  of  the  stream,  with  a  number  of 
horses  and  dogs  about  them.  They  all  pressed 
forward  with  eagerness  and  soon  reached  tlie 
camp.  Here  their  first  attention  was  to  obtain 
provisions.  A  rifle,  an  old  musket,  a  tomahawk, 
a  tin  kettle,  and  .a  small  quantity  of  ammunition, 
soon  procured  them  four  horses,  three  dogs,  and 
some  roots.  Part  of  the  live  stock  was  immedi- 
ately killed,  cooked  with  all  expedition,  and  as 
promptly  devoured.  A  hearty  meal  restored 
every  one  to  good  spirits.  In  the  course  of  the 
following  morning  the  Dorion  family  made  its 
reappearance.  Pierre  came  trudging  in  the  ad« 
Vance,  followed  by  his  valued,  though  skeleton 
steed,  on  which  was  mounted  his  squaw  with  the 
new-born  infant  in  her  arms,  and  her  boy  of  two 
years  old  wrapped  in  a  blanket  and  slung  at  her 
side.  The  mother  looked  as  unconcerned  as  if 
nothing  had  happened  to  her ;  so  easy  is  nature 
in  her  operations  in  the  wilderness,  when  free 
from  the  enf  lebling  refinements  of  luxury,  and 
the  tamperings  and  appliances  of  art. 

The  next  morning  ushered  in  the  new  year 
(1812).  Mr.  Hunt  wa3  about  to  resume  his 
march,  when  his  men   requested   permission    to 


TBE  NEW  TEAR  HOLIDAYS. 


883 


celebrate  the  day.  This  was  particularly  urpfecl 
by  the  Canadian  voyageurs,  with  whom  New- 
Year's  day  is  a  favorite  festival ;  and  who  never 
willingly  give  up  a  holiday,  under  any  circum- 
stances. There  was  no  resisting  such  an  appli- 
cation ;  so  the  day  was  passed  in  repose  and  rev- 
elry ;  the  poor  Canadianar  contrived  to  sing  and 
dance  in  defiance  of  all  their  hardships ;  and 
there  was  a  sumptuous  New- Year's  banquet  of 
dog's  meat  and  horse  flesh. 

After  two  days  of  welcome  rest,  the  travellers 
addressed  themselves  once  more  to  their  painful 
journey.  The  Indians  of  the  lodges  pointed  out 
a  distant  gap  through  which  they  must  pass  in 
traversing  the  ridge  of  mountains.  They  assured 
them  that  they  would  be  but  little  incommoded 
by  snow,  and  in  three  days  would  arrive  among 
the  Sciatogas.  Mr.  Hunt,  however,  had  been  so 
frequently  deceived  by  Indian  accounts  of  routes 
and  distances,  that  he  gave  but  little  faith  to  this 
information. 

The  travellers  continued  their  course  due  west 
for  five  days,  crossing  the  valley  and  entering  the 
mountains.  Here  the  travelling  became  exces- 
sively toilsome,  across  rough  stony  ridges,  and 
•amidst  fallen  trees.  They  were  often  knee  deep 
in  snow,  and  sometimes  in  the  hollows  betwecK 
the  ridges  sank  up  to  their  waists.  The  weather 
was  extremely  cold ;  the  sky  covered  with  clouds 
so  that  for  days  they  had  not  a  glimpse  of  the 
sun.  In  traversing  the  highest  ridge  they  had  a 
wide  but  chilling  prospect  over  a  wilderness  of 
Bnowy  mountains. 


II    j....ai 


884 


ASTORIA. 


!| 


i::i  ,  \ 


llllljl 


On  the  6th  of  January,  however,  they  had 
croHHed  the  dividing  suinniit  of  the  chain,  and 
were  evidently  under  the  influence  of  a  milder 
climate.  The  snow  began  to  decrease ;  the  sun 
once  more  emerged  from  the  thick  canopy  of 
clouds,  and  shone  cheeringly  upon  them,  and 
they  caught  a  sight  of  what  appeared  to  be  a 
plain,  stretching  out  in  the  west.  They  hailed  it 
as  the  poor  Israelites  hailed  the  first  glimpse  of 
the  promised  land,  for  they  flattered  themselves 
that  this  might  be  the  great  plain  of  the  Colum- 
bia, and  that  their  painful  pilgrimage  might  be 
drawing  to  a  close. 

It  was  now  five  days  since  they  had  left  the 
lodges  of  the  Shoshonies,  during  which  they  had 
come  about  sixty  miles,  and  their  guide  assured 
them  that  in  the  course  of  the  next  day  they 
would  see  the  SciatogAS. 

On  the  follo«(ing  morning,  therefore,  they 
pushed  forward  with  eagerness,  nnd  soon  fell 
upon  a  small  stream  which  led  thv.  ..  through  a 
deep  narrow  defile,  between  stupendous  ridges. 
Here  among  the  rocks  and  precipices  they  saw 
gangs  of  that  mountain-loving  animal,  the  black- 
tailed  deer,  and  came  to  where  great  tracks  of 
horses  were  to  be  seen  in  all  directions,  made  by. 
the  Indian  hunters. 

The  snow  had  entirely  disappeared,  and  the 
hopes  of  soon  coming  upon  some  Indian  encamp- 
ment induced  Mr.  Hunt  to  press  on.  Many  of 
the  men,  however,  were  so  enfceMed  that  they 
ouuld  not  keep  up  with  tbe  main  body,  but  lagged 
At  intervals  behind  ;  and  some  of  them  did  not 


ARRIVAL  AMONG    THE  8C/AT00AS.     385 


arrive  at  the  night  eticampment.  In  the  course 
of  this  day's  march  the  recently-bora  child  of 
Pierre  Dor  ion  died. 

The  march  was  resumed  early  the  next  morn- 
ing, without  waiting  for  the  stragglers.  The 
stream  which  they  had  followed  throughout  the 
preceding  day  was  now  swollen  by  the  influx  of 
another  river ;  the  declivities  of  the  hills  were 
green  and  the  valleys  were  clothed  with  grass. 
At  length  the  jovial  cry  was  given  of  "  an  Indian 
camp ! "  It  was  yet  in  the  distance,  in  the 
bosom  of  the  green  valley,  but  they  could  per- 
ceive that  it  consisted  of  numerous  lodges,  and 
that  hundreds  of  horses  were  grazing  the  grassy 
meadows  around  it.  The  prospect  of  abundance 
of  horse  flesh  diffused  universal  joy,  for  by  this 
time  the  whole  stock  of  travelling  provisions  was 
reduced  to  the  skeleton  steed  of  Pierre  Dorion, 
and  another  wretched  animal,  equally  emaciated, 
that  had  been  repeatedly  reprieved  during  the 
journey. 

A  forced  march  soon  brought  the  weary  and 

hungry  travellers  to  the  camp.     It  proved  to  be 

a    strong   party  of   Sciatogas    and    Tus-che-pas. 

There  were  thirty-four  lodges,  comfortably  con- 

sftructed  of  mats  ;  the  Indians,  too,  were  better 

clothed   than  any  of  the  w^andering   bands  they 

had    hitherto    met   on    this    side    of  the    Rocky 

Mountains.     Indeed  they   were  as  well  clad  as 

the  generality  of  the  wild  hunter  tribes.     Each 

had  a  good  buffalo  or  deer  skin  robe ;  and  a  deer 

skin  hunting  shirt  and  leggins.     Upwards  of  two 

thousand  horses  were  ranging  the  pastures  around 
26 


i&r 


[ 


I 


ii  i 


386 


ASTORIA. 


their  encMiTipment ;  but  what  delighted  Mr.  Hunt 
was,  on  entering  the  lodges,  to  behold  brass  ket- 
tles, axes,  copper  tea-kettles,  and  various  other 
articles  of  civilized  manufacture,  which  showed 
that  these  Indians  had  an  indirect  communication 
with  the  people  of  the  sea-coast  who  traded  with 
the  whites.  He  made  eager  inquiries  of  thQ 
Sciatogas,  and  gathered  from  them  that  the  great 
river  (the  Columbia)  was  but  two  days'  march 
distant,  and  that  several  white  people  had  re- 
cently descended  it ;  who  he  hoped  might  prove 
to  be  M'Lellan,  M'Kenzie,  and  their  companions. 

It  was  with  the  utmost  joy  and  the  most  pro- 
found gratitude  to  heaven,  that  Mr.  Hunt  found 
himself  and  his  band  of  weary  and  famishing 
wanderers  thus  safely  extricated  from  the  most 
perilous  part  of  their  long  journey,  and  within 
the  prospect  of  a  termination  of  their  toils.  All 
the  stragglers  who  had  lagged  behind  arrived, 
one  after  another,  excepting  the  poor  Canadian 
voyageur,  Carriere.  He  had  been  seen  late  in 
the  preceding  afternoon,  riding  behind  a  Snake 
Indian,  near  some  lodges  of  that  nation,  a  few 
miles  distant  from  the  last  night's  encampment ; 
and  it  was  expected  that  he  would  soon  make  his 
appearance. 

The  first  object  of  Mr.  Hunt  was  to  obtain 
provisions  for  his  men.  A  little  venison  of  an 
indifferent  quality,  and  some  roots  were  all  that 
could  be  procured  that  evening  ;  but  the  next 
day  lie  succeeded  in  purchasing  a  mare  and  colt, 
which  were  immediately  killed,  and  the  cravings 
of  the  half-starved  people  in  some  degree  ap- 
peased. 


EABITS   OF   THE  SCJATOGAS. 


887 


For  several  days  they  remained  in  the  neigh- 
borhood of  these  Indians,  reposing  after  all  their 
hardships,  and  feasting  upon  horse  flesh  and  roots, 
obtained  in  subsequent  traffic.  Many  of  the 
people  ate  to  such  excess  as  to  render  themselves 
sick,  others  were  lame  from  their  past  journey  ; 
but  all  grad"ially  recruited  in  the  repose  and 
abundance  of  the  vallev.  Horses  were  obtained 
here  much  more  readily,  and  at  a  cheaper  rate, 
than  among  the  Snakes.  A  blanket,  a  knife,  or 
a  half  pound  of  blue  beads  would  purchase  a 
steed,  and  at  this  rate  many  of  the  men  bought 
horses  for  their  individual  use. 

This  tribe  of  Indians,  who  are  represented  as 
a  proud-spirited  race,  and  uncommonly  cleanly, 
never  eat  horses  or  dogs,  nor  would  they  permit 
the  raw  flesh  of  either  to  be  brought  into  their 
huts.  They  had  a  small  quantity  of  vension  in 
each  lodge,  but  set  so  high  a  price  upon  it  that  the 
white  men,  in  their  impoverished  state,  could  not 
afford  to  purchase  it.  They  hunted  the  deer  on 
horseback  ;  "  ringing,"  or  surrounding  them,  and 
running  them  down  in  a  circle.  They  were 
admirable  horsemen,  and  their  weapons  were 
bows  and  arrows,  which  they  managed  with  great 
dexterity.  They  were  altogether  primitive  in 
their  habits,  and  seemed  to  cling  to  the  usages 
of  savage  life,  even  when  possessed  of  the  aids  of 
civilization.  They  had  axes  among  them,  yet 
they  generally  made  use  of  a  stone  mallet 
wrought  into  the  shape  of  a  bottle  and  wedges  of 
elk  horn,  in  splitting  their  wood.  Though  they 
might  have  two  or  three  brass  kettles  hanging  in 


t 


,  1 

'       Mi 


'^'wr 


i! 


if 


888 


ASTORIA. 


their  lodges,  yet  they  would  frequently  use  vessels 
made  of  willow,  for  carrying  water,  and  would 
even  boil  their  meat  in  them,  by  means  of  hot 
stones.  Their  women  wore  caps  of  willow  neatly 
worked  and  figured. 

As  Carriere,  the  Canadian  straggler,  did  not 
make  his  appearance  for  two  or  three  days  after 
the  epcarapment  in  the  valley,  two  men  were 
sent  out  on  horseback  in  search  of  him.  They 
returned,  however,  without  success.  The  lodges 
of  the  Snake  Indians  near  which  he  had  been 
seen  were  removed,  and  they  could  find  no  trace 
of  him.  Several  days  more  elapsed,  yet  nothing 
was  seen  or  heard  of  him,  or  of  the  Snake  horse- 
man, behind  whom  he  had  been  last  observed. 
It  was  feared,  therefore,  that  he  had  either 
perished  through  hunger  and  fatigue ;  had  been 
murdered  by  the  Indians ;  or.  being  left  to  him- 
self, had  mistaken  some  hunting  tracks  for  the 
trail  of  the  party,  and  been  led  astray  and  lost. 

The  river  on  the  banks  of  which  they  were 
encamped,  emptied  into  the  Columbia,  was  called 
by  the  natives  the  Eu-o-tal-la,  or  Umatalla,  and 
abounded  with  beaver.  In  the  course  of  their 
sojourn  in  the  valley  which  it  watered,  they  twice 
shifted  their  camp,  proceeding  about  thirty  miles 
down  its  course,  which  was  to  the  west.  A 
heavy  fall  of  rain  caused  the  river  to  overflow  its 
banks,  dislodged  them  from  their  encampment, 
and  drowned  three  of  their  horses,  which  were 
tethered  in  the  low  ground. 

Further  conversatiofi  witli  the  Indians  satisfied 
them  that  they  were  in  the  neighborhood  of  the 


THE   COLUMBIA  RIVER. 


389 


e  vessels 
d  would 
IS  of  hot 
»w  neatly 

did  not 
ays  after 
en    were 
1.     They 
[le  lodges 
lad   been 
no  trace 
t  nothing 
ke  horse- 
observed, 
id    either 
Ihad  been 
t  to  him- 
s  for  the 
and  lost, 
hey  were 
as  called 
;alla,  and 
of  their 
ihey  twice 
rty  miles 
est.     A 
rflow  its 
mpment, 
ch    were 

satisfied 
kd  of  the 


Columbia.  The  number  of  tlie  white  men  who 
they  said  had  passed  down  the  river,  agreed 
with  that  of  M'Lellan,  M'Kenzie.  and  their  com- 
panions, and  increased  the  hope  of  Mr.  Hunt  that 
they  might  have  passed  through  the  wilderness 
with  safety. 

These  Indians  had  a  vague  story  that  white 
men  were  coming  to  trade  among  them«(  and 
they  often  spoke  of  two  great  men  named  Ke* 
Koosh  and  Jacquean,  who  gave  them  tobacco, 
and  smoked  with  them.  Jacquean,  they  said, 
bad  a  house  somewhere  upon  the  great  river. 
Some  of  the  Canadians  supposed  they  were 
speaking  of  one  Jacquean  Finlay,  a  clerk  of  the 
Northwest  Company,  and  inferred  that  the  house 
must  be  some  trading  post  on  one  of  the  tributary 
streams  of  the  Columbia.  The  Indians  were 
overjoyed  when  they  found  this  band  of  white 
men  intended  to  return  and  trade  with  them. 
They  promised  to  use  all  diligence  in  collecting 
quantities  of  beaver  skins,  and  no  doubt  proceeded 
to  make  deadly  war  upon  that  sagacious,  but 
ill-fated  animal,  who,  in  general,  lived  in  peace- 
ful insignificance  among  his  Indian  neighbors, 
before  the  intrusion  of  the  white  trader.  On  the 
the  20th  of  January,  Mr.  Hunt  took  leave  of 
these  friendly  Indians,  and  of  the  river  on  which 
they  encamped,  and  continued  westward. 

At  length,  on  the  following  day,  the  wayworn 
travellers  lifted  up  their  eyes  and  beheld  before 
Ihem  the  long-sought  waters  of  the  Columbia. 
The  sight  was  hailed  with  as  much  transport  as 
if  they  had  already  reached  the  end  of  their  pil- 


390 


ASTORTA, 


grimage  ;  nor  can  we  wonder  at  their  joy.  Two 
hundred  and  forty  miles  had  they  marched, 
through  wintry  wastes  and  rugged  mountains, 
since  leaving  Snake  River  ;  and  six  months  of 
perilous  wayfaring  had  they  experienced  since 
their  departure  from  the  Arickara  village  on  the 
Missouri.  Their  whole  route  by  land  and  water 
fromithat  point  had  been,  according  to  their  com- 
putation, seventeen  hundred  and  fifty-one  miles, 
in  the  course  of  which  they  had  endured  all  kinds 
of  hardships.  In  fact,  the  necessity  of  avoiding 
the  dangerous  country  of  the  Blackfeet  had 
obliged  them  to  make  a  bend  to  the  south  and 
traverse  a  great  additional  extent  of  unknown 
wilderness. 

The  place  where  they  struck  the  Columbia 
was  some  distance  below  the  junction  of  its  two 
great  branches,  Lewis  and  Clarke  rivers,  and  not 
far  from  the  influx  of  the  Wallah- Wallah.  It 
was  a  beautiful  stream,  three-quarters  of  a  mile 
wide,  totally  free  from  trees ;  bordered  in  some 
places  with  steep  rocks,  in  others  with  pebbled 
shores. 

On  the  banks  of  the  Columbia  they  found  a 
miserable  horde  of  Indians,  called  Akai-chies, 
with  no  clothing  but  a  scanty  mantle  of  the  skins 
of  animals,  and  sometimes  a  pair  of  sleeves  of 
wolfs  skin.  Their  lodges  were  shaped  lik*^  a 
tent,  and  very  light  and  warm,  being  covered 
with  mats  of  rushes ;  beside  which  they  had  ex- 
cavations in  the  ground,  lined  with  mats,  and 
occupied  by  the  women,  who  were  even  more 
slightly  clad  than  the  men.     These  people  sub 


CROSSING    THE   COLUMBIA. 


891 


Bisted  chiefly  by  fisliing  ;  having  canoes  of  a  rudo 
construction,  being  merely  the  trunks  of  pine 
trees  split  and  hollowed  out  by  fire.  Their 
lodges  were  well  stored  with  dried  salmon,  and 
they  had  great  quantities  of  fresh  salmon  trout  of 
an  excellent  flavor,  tak an  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Umatalla ;  of  which  the  travellers  obtained  a 
most  acceptable  supply.    \y 

Finding  that  the  road  was  on  the  north  side  of 
the  river,  Mr.  Hunt  crossed,  and  continued  five 
or  six  days  travelling  rather  slowly  down  along 
its  banks,  being  much  delayed  by  the  straying  of 
the  horses,  and  the  attempts  made  by  the  Indians 
to  steal  them.  Ih^-y  frequently  passed  lodges, 
where  they  obtained  fish  and  dogs.  At  one 
place  the  natives  had  just  returned  from  hunting, 
and  had  brought  back  a  large  quantity  of  elk  and 
deer  meat,  but  asked  so  high  a  price  for  it  as  to 
be  beyond  the  funds  of  the  travellers,  so  they  had 
to  content  themselves  with  dog's  flesh.  They  had 
by  this  time,  however,  come  to  consider  it  very 
choice  food,  superior  to  horse  flesh,  and  the  min- 
utes of  the  expedition  speak  rather  exultingly 
now  and  then,  of  their  having  made  a  "  famouii 
repast,"  where  this  viand  happened  to  be  unus- 
ually plenty. 

They  again  learnt  tidings  of  some  of  the 
scattered  members  of  the  expedition,  supposed  to 
be  M*Kenzie,  M'Leilan,  and  their  men,  who  had 
preceded  them  down  the  river,  and  had  over- 
turned one  of  their  canoes,  by  which  they  lost 
many  articles.  All  these  floating  pieces  of  intel- 
ligence   of  their   fellow   adventurers,    who    had 


892 


ASTORIA. 


''hi 


ill 


eeparated  frcm  them  in  the  heart  of  the  wilder- 
ness, they  received  with  eager  interest. 

The  weather  continued  to  be  temperate, 
marking  the  superior  softness  of  the  climate  on 
this  side  of  the  mountains.  For  a  great  part  of 
the  time,  the  days  were  delightfully  mild  and 
clear,  like  the  serene  days  of  October  on  the 
Atlantic  borders.  The  country  in  general,  in  the 
neighborhood  of  the  river,  was  a  continual  plain, 
low  near  the  water,  but  rising  gradually ;  desti- 
tute of  trees,  and  almost  without  shrubs  or  plants 
of  any  kind,  excepting  a  few  willow  bushes. 
After  travelling  about  sixty  miles,  they  came  to 
where  the  country  became  very  hilly  and  the 
river  made  its  way  between  rocky  banks,  and 
down  numerous  rapids.  The  Indians  in  this 
vicinity  were  better  clad  and  altogether  in  more 
prosperous  condition  than  those  above,  and,  as 
Mr.  Hunt  thought,  showed  their  consciousness  of 
ease  by  something  like  sauciness  of  manner. 
Thus  prosperity  is  apt  to  produce  arrogance  in 
savage  as  well  as  in  civilized  life.  Id  both 
conditions,  man  is  an  animal  that  will  not  bear 
pampering. 

From  these  people  Mr.  Hunt  for  the  first 
time  received  vague,  but  deeply  interesting  intel- 
ligence of  that  part  of  the  enterprise  which  had 
proceeded  by  sea  to  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia. 
The  Indians  spoke  of  a  number  of  white  men 
who  had  built  a  large  house  at  the  mouth  of  the 
great  river,  and  surrounded  it  with  palisades. 
None  of  them  had  been  down  to  Astoria  them- 
selves; but   rumors   spread   widely  and  rapidly 


FALLS   OF  THE   COLUMBIA. 


393 


ilder* 

erate, 
ite  on 
art  of 
1    and 
n    the 
in  the 
plain, 
desti- 
plants 
Qushes. 
ime  to 
id    the 
is>j  and 
in    this 
1  more 
ind,  as 
[less  of 
lanner. 
ince  in 
both 
)t  bear 


from  mouth  to  mouth  among  the  Indian  tribes, 
and  are  carried  to  the  heart  of  the  interior  by 
bunting  parties  and  migratory  hordes. 

The  establishment  of  a  trading  emporium  at 
Buch  a  point,  also,  was  calculated  to  cause  a 
sensation  to  the  modt  remote  parts  of  the  vast 
wilderness  beyond  the  mountains.  It  in  a  man* 
ner  struck  the  pulse  of  the  great  vital  river,  and 
vibrated  up  all  its  tributary  streams. 

It  is  surprising  to  notice  how  well  this  remote 
tribe  of  savages  had  learnt  through  intermediate 
gossips,  the  private  feelings  of  the  colonists  at 
Astoria :  it  shows  that  Indians  are  not  the  incu- 
rious and  indifferent  observers  that  they  have 
been  represented.  They  told  Mr.  Hunt  that  the 
white  people  at  the  large  house  had  been  looking 
anxiously  for  many  of  their  friends,  whom  they 
had  expected  to  descend  the  great  river ;  and 
had  been  in  much  affliction,  fearing  that  they 
were  lost  Now,  however,  the  arrival  of  him 
and  his  party  would  wipe  away  all  their  tears, 
and  they  would  dance  and  sing  for  joy. 

On  the  81st  of  January,  Mr.  Hunt  arrived  at 
the  falls  of  the  Columbia,  and  encamped  at  the  vil- 
lage of  the  Wish-ram,  situated  at  the  head  of  that 
dangerous  pass  of  the  river  called  *^  the  Long 
Narrows," 


CHAPTER  XXXVni. 


F  the  village  of  Wish-ram,  the  aborigines' 
fishing  mart  of  the  Columbia,  we  have 
given  some  account  in  an  early  chapter 
of  this  work.  The  inhabitants  held  a  traffic  in 
the  productions  of  the  fisheries  of  the  fe,lls,  and 
their  village  was  the  trading  resort  of  the  tribes 
from  the  coast  and  from  the  mountains.  Mr. 
Hunt  found  the  inhabitants  shrewder  and  more 
intelligent  than  any  Indians  he  had  met  with. 
Trade  had  sharpened  their  wits,  though  it  had 
not  improved  tlieir  honesty ;  for  they  were  a  com- 
munity of  arrant  rogues  and  freebooters.  Their 
habitations  comported  with  their  circiunstanceS) 
and  were  superior  to  any  the  travellers  had  yet 
seen  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  In  general, 
the  dwellings  of  the  savages  on  the  Pacific  side 
of  that  great  barrier  were  mere  tents  and  cabin* 
of  mats,  or  skins,  or  straw,  the  country  being 
destitute  of  timber.  In  Wish-ram,  on  tiie  con- 
trary, the  houses  were  built  of  wood,  with  long 
sloping  roofs.  The  floor  was  sunk  about  six  feet 
below  the  surface  of  the  ground,  with  a  low  door 
9.t  the  gable  end,  extremely  narrow,  and  partly 
sunk.  Through  this  it  was  necessary  to  crawl, 
luid  then  to  descend  a  short  ladder.     This  incon 


DJSTJiESSINO  INTELLIGENCE. 


895 


)ngines 
fe  have 
chapter 
Talfic  in 
ills,  and 
e  tribes 
s.     Mr. 
id  more 
Bt  with, 
it  had 
8  acorn- 
Their 
istancesy 
had  yet 
general, 
;ific  side 
il  cabins 
Y  being 
le  con- 
th  long 
six  feet 
)w  door 
partly 
0  crawl, 
incon 


venient  entrance  was  probably  for  the  purpose  of 
defense  ;  there  were  loop-holes  also  under  the 
eaves,  apparently  for  the  discharge  of  arrows. 
The  houses  were  large,  generally  containing  two 
or  three  families.  Immediately  within  the  door 
were  sleeping  places,  ranged  along  thr  .lis,  like 
berths  in  a  ship ;  and  furnished  with  pallets  of 
matting.  These  extended  along  one  half  of  the 
building  ;  the  remaining  half  was  appropriated  to 
the  storing  of  dried  fish. 

The  trading  operations  of  the  inhabitants  of 
Wish-ram  had  given  them  a  wider  scope  of  in- 
formation, and  rendered  their  village  a  kind  of 
headquarters  of  intelligence.  Mr.  Hunt  was 
able,  therefore,  to  collect  more  distinct  tidings 
concerning  the  settlement  of  Astoria  and  its  af- 
fairs. One  of  the  inhabit^ants  had  been  at  the 
trading  post  established  by  David  Stuart  on  the 
Oakinagan,  and  had  picked  up  a  few  words  of 
English  there.  From  him,  Mr.  Hunt  gleaned 
various  particulars  about  that  establishment,  afl 
well  as  about  the  general  concerns  of  the  enter- 
prise. Others  repeated  the  name  of  Mr.  M'Kay, 
the  partner  who  perished  in  the  massacre  on 
board  of  the  Tonquin,  and  gave  some  account  of 
that  melancholy  aifair.  They  said  Mr.  M'Kay 
was  a  chief  among  the  white  men,  and  had  built 
a  great  house  at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  but  had 
left  it  and  sailed  away  in  a  large  ship  to  the 
northward  where  he  had  been  attacked  by  bad 
Indians  in  canoes.  Mr.  Hunt  was  startled  by 
this  intelligence,  and  made  further  inquiries. 
They  informed  him  that  the  Indians  had  lashed 


ir«l!!i 


396 


ASTORIA. 


their  canoes  to  the  ship,  and  fought  until  they 
killed  him  and  all  his  people.  This  is  another 
instance  of  the  clearness  with  which  intelligence 
is  transmitted  from  mouth  to  mouth  among  tlie 
Indian  tribes.  These  tidings,  though  but  par- 
tially credited  by  Mr.  Hunt,  filled  his  mind  with 
anxious  forebodings.  He  now  endeavored  to 
procure  canoes,  in  which  to  descend  the  Colum- 
bia, but  none  suitable  for  the  purpose  were  to  be 
obtained  above  the  Narrows ;  he  continued  on, 
therefore,  the  distance  of  twelve  miles,  and  en- 
camped on  the  bank  of  the  river.  The  camp 
was  soon  surrounded  by  loitering  savages,  who 
went  prowling  about  seeking  what  they  might 
pilfer.  Being  baffled  by  the  vigilance  of  the 
guard,  they  endeavored  to  compass  their  ends  by 
other  means.  Towards  evening,  a  number  of 
warriors  entered  the  camp  in  ruffling  style ; 
painted  and  dressed  out  as  if  for  battle,  and 
armed  with  lances,  bows  and  arrows,  and  scalping 
knives.  They  informed  Mr.  Hunt  that  a  party 
of  thirty  or  forty  braves  were  coming  up  from  » 
village  below  to  attack  the  camp  and  carry  off 
the  horses,  but  that  they  were  determined  to  stay 
with  him  and  defend  him.  Mr.  Hunt  received 
them  with  great  coldness,  and,  when  they  had 
finished  their  story,  gave  them  a  pipe  to  smoke. 
He  then  called  up  all  hands,  stationed  sentinels  in 
different  quarters,  but  told  them  to  keep  as  vigil- 
ant an  eye  within  the  camp  as  without. 

The  warriors  were  evidently  baffled  by  these 
precautions,  and,  having  smoked  their  pipe,  and 
vapored   off  their   valor,   took   their   departure 


NOTHING  BUT  SMOKE. 


897 


The  farce,  however,  did  not  end  here.  After  a 
little  while  the  warriors  returned,  ushering  in 
another  savage,  still  more  heroically  arrayed.  This 
they  announced  as  the  chief  of  the  belligerent 
village,  but  as  a  great  pacificator.  His  people 
had  been  furiously  bent  upon  the  attack,  and 
would  have  doubtless  carried  it  into  effect,  but 
this  gallant  chief  had  stood  forth  aa  the  friend  of 
jvhite  men,  and  had  dispersed  the  throng  by  his 
own  authority  and  prowess.  Having  vaunted 
this  signal  piece  of  service,  there  was  a  significant 
pause ;  all  evidently  expecting  some  adequate  re- 
\fard.  Mr.  Huiic  again  produced  the  pipe, 
smoked  with  the  chieftain  and  his  worthy  com- 
pilers ;  but  made  no  further  demonstrations  of 
giatitude.  They  remained  about  the  camp  all 
ni^ht,  but  at  daylight  returned,  baffled  and  crest- 
fall.'^n,  to  their  homes,  with  nothing  but  smoke  for 
their  pains^ 

^Ir.  Hunt  now  endeavored  to  procure  canoes, 
of  which  he  saw  several  about  the  neighborhood, 
extn^mely  well  made,  with  elevated  stems  and 
sterns,  some  of  them  capable  of  carrying  three 
thousand  pounds  weight.  He  found  it  extremely 
difficult,  however,  to  deal  with  these  slippery 
people,  who  seemed  much  more  inclined  to  pilfer. 
Notwithstanding  a  strict  guard  maintained  round 
the  camp,  various  implements  were  stolen,  and 
several  horses  carried  off.  Among  the  latter,  we 
have  to  include  the  long-cherished  steed  of  Pierre 
Dorion.  From  some  wilful  caprice  that  worthy 
pitched  his  tent  at  some  distance  from  the  main 
'>ody,  aud  tethered  his  invaluable  steed  beside  if) 


898 


ASTORIA. 


from  whence  it  was  abstracted  in  the  night,  to  the 
infin  te  chagrin  and  mortification  of  the  hybrid 
interpreter. 

Having,  after  several  days'  negotiation,  pro- 
cured the  requisite  number  of  canoes,  Mr.  IJunt 
would  gladly  have  left  this  thievish  neighborhood, 
but  was  detained  until  the  5th  of  February  by 
violent  head  winds,  accompanied  by  snow  and 
rain.  Even  after  he  was  enabled  to  get  under 
way,  he  had  still  to  struggle  against  contrary 
winds  and  tempestuous  wet^ther.  The  current  of 
the  riv^,  however,  was  in  his  favor ;  having 
made  a  portage  at  the  grand  rapid,  the  canoes 
met  with  no  further  obstruction,  and,  on  the 
afternoon  of  the  15th  of  February,  swept  round 
an  intervening  cape,  and  came  in  sight  of  the 
infaut  settlement  of  Astoria.  After  eleven 
months  wandering  in  the  wilderness,  a  great  part 
of  the  time  over  trackless  wastes,  where  the 
sight  of  a  savage  wigwam  was  a  rarity,  we  may 
imagine  the  delight  of  the  poor  weather-beaten 
travellers,  at  beholding  the  embryo  establishment, 
with  its  magazines,  habitations,  and  picketed  bul- 
warks, seated  on  a  high  point  of  land,  dominating 
a  beautiful  little  bay,  in  which  was  a  trim-built 
shallop  riding  quietly  at  anchor.  A  shout  of  joy 
burst  from  each  canoe  at  the  long-wished-for 
sight.  They  urged  their  canoes  across  the  bay, 
and  pulled  with  eagerness  for  shore,  where  all 
\iands  poured  down  fi'om  the  settlement  to  receive 
and  welcome  them.  Among  the  first  to  greet 
them  on  their  landing,  were  scnr*e  of  their  old 
tomrades  and    fellow-sufferers,   who,  under    the 


ARRIVAL  AT  ASTORIA. 


809 


conduct  of  Reed,  M'LoUtin,  and  M'Kenzle,  had 
(Hirted  from  them  at  the  Caldron  Linn.  These 
hud  reached  Astoria  nearly  a  niontli  previously, 
and,  judging  from  their  own  narrow  escape  from 
starvation,  had  given  up  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  fol- 
lowers as  lost.  Their  greeting  was  the  more 
warm  and  cordial.  As  to  the  Canadian  voy- 
ageurs,  their  mutual  felicitations,  as  usual,  were 
loud  and  vociferous,  and  it  was  almost  ludicrous 
to  behold  these  ancient  "  comrades  "  and  "  con- 
freres," hugging  and  kissing  each  other  on  the 
river  bank. 

When  the  first  greetings  were  over,  the  differ- 
ent bands  interchanged  accounts  of  their  several 
wanderings,  after  separating  at  Snake  River  ;  we 
shall  briefly  notice  a  few  of  the  leading  particu- 
lars. It  will  be  recollected  by  the  reader,  that  a 
small  exploring  detachment  had  proceeded  down 
the  river,"  under  the  conduct  of  Mr.  John  Reed,  a 
clerk  of  the  company  ;  that  another  had  set  off 
under  M'Lellan,  and  a  third  in  a  different  direction, 
under  M'Kenzie.  After  wandering  for  several 
days  without  meeting  with  Indians,  or  obtaining 
any  supplies,  they  came  together  fortuitously 
among  the  Snake  River  mountains,  some  distance 
below  that  disastrous  pass  or  strait  which  had 
received  the  appellation  of  the  Devil's  Scuttle 
Hole. 

When  thus  united,  their  party  consisted  of 
M'Kenzie,  M'Lellan,  Reed,  and  eight  men,  chiefly 
Canadians.  Being  all  in  the  same  predicament, 
without  horses,  provisions,  or  information  of  any 
kind,  they  all  agreed  that  it  would  be  worse  thau 


ll   li 


400 


ASTORIA. 


useless  to  return  to  Mr.  Hunt  and  encumber  him 
with  so  many  starving  men,  and  that  their  only 
course  was  to  extricate  themselves  as  soon  as  pos- 
sible from  this  land  of  famine  and  misery,  and 
make  the  best  of  their  way  for  the  Columbia. 
They  accordingly  continued  to  follow  the  down- 
ward course  of  Snake  River  ;  clambering  rocks 
and  mountains,  and  defying  all  the  difficulties  and 
dangers  of  that  rugged  defile,  which  subsequently, 
when  the  snows  had  fallen,  was  found  impassable 
by  Messrs.  Hunt  and  Crooks. 

Though  constantly  near  to  the  borders  of  the 
river,  and  for  a  great  part  of  the  time  within 
sight  of  its  current,  one  of  their  greatest  suffer- 
ings was  thirst.  The  river  had  worn  its  way  in  a 
deep  channel  through  rocky  mountains,  destitute 
of  brooks  or  springs.  Its  banks  were  so  high 
and  precipitous,  that  there  was  rarely  any  place 
where  the  travellers  could  get  down  to  drink  of 
its  waters.  Frequently  they  suffered  for  miles 
the  torments  of  Tantalus ;  wa,t,er  continually 
within  sight,  yet  fevered  with  the  most  parching 
thirst.  Here  and  there  they  met  with  rain-water 
collected  in  the  hollows  of  the  rocks,  but  more 
than  once  they  were  reduced  to  the  utmost  ex- 
tremity; and  some  of  the  men  had  recourse  to 
the  last  expedient  to  avoid  perishing. 

Their  sufferings  from  hunger  were  equally 
severe.  They  could  meet  with  no  game,  and 
subsisted  for  a  time  on  strips  of  beaver  skin, 
broiled  on  the  coals.  These  were  doled  out  in 
scanty  allowances,  barely  sufT^cient  to  keep  up 
existence,  and  at  length  failed  them  altogether 


.1   i  H 


ADVENTURES. 


401 


r  him 
only 

9  po8- 

,  and 

imbia. 

down- 
rocks 

38  and 

lently, 

issable 

of  the 
within 
suffer- 
ly  in  a 
jstitute 
p  high 
'  place 
ink  of 
nules 
inually 
irching 
water 
more 
ost  ex- 
irse  to 

jqually 
le,  and 
skin, 

out  in 
ep   up 

ether 


StJH  they  crept  feebly  on,  scarce  drag^ng  one 
limb  after  another,  until  n.  severe  snow-storm 
brought  them  >to  a  pause.  To  struggle  against 
it,  in  their  exhausted  condition,  was  impossible, 
BO  cowering  under  an  impending  rock  at  the  foot 
of  a  steep  mountain,  they  prepared  themselves 
for  that  wretohed  fate  which  seemed  inevitable. 

At  this  critical  juncture,  when  &imne  stared 
them  in  the  face,  M'Lellan  casting  up  his  eyes, 
beheld  an  ahsahta,  or  bighorn,  sheltering  itself 
under  a  shelving  rock  on  the  side  of  the  hill 
above  them.  Being  in  a  more  active  plight  than 
any  of  his  comrades,  and  an  excellent  marksman, 
he  set  off  to  get  within  shot  of  the  animal.  His 
qompanions  watohed  his  movements  with  breath- 
Less  anxiety,  for  their  lives  depended  upon  his 
success.  He  made  a  cautious  circuit ;  scrambled 
up  the  hill  with  the  utmost  silence,  and  at  length 
arrived,  unperceived,  within  a  proper  distance. 
Here  leveling  his  rifle  he  took  so  sure  an  aim, 
that  the  bighorn  fell  dead  on  the  spot ;  a  fortunate 
circumstance,  for,  to  pursue  it,  if  merely  wounded, 
would  have  been  impossible  in  his  emaciated 
state.  The  declivity  of  the  hill  enabled  him  to 
roll  the  carcass  down  to  his  companions,  who  were 
too  feeble  to  climb  the  rocks.  They  fell  to  work 
to  cut  it  up  ;  yet  exerted  a  remarkable  self-denial 
for  men  in  their  starving  condition,  for  th'fey  con- 
tented themselves  for  the  present  with  a  soup 
made  from  the  bones,  reserving  the  flesh  for  ftiture 
repasts.  This  providential  relief  gave  them 
strength  to  pursue  their  journey,  but  they  were 

frequentjiy  reduced   to  almost  equal  straits,  and 
96 


402 


ASTORIA. 


t  was  only  the  smallness  of  their  part),  requir- 
log  a  small  supply  of  provisions,  that  enabled 
them  to  get  through  this  desolate  region  with 
^eir  lives. 

At  length,  after  twenty-one  days  of  toil  and 
rafiering,  they  got  through  these  mountains,  and 
arrived  at  a  tributary  stream  of  that  branch  of 
the  Columbia  called  Lewis  River,  of  which  Snake 
River  forms  the  southern  fork.  In  this  neigh- 
borhood they  met  with  wild  horses,  the  first  they 
had  seen  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  From 
hence  they  made  their  way  to  Lewis  River, 
where  they  fell  in  with  a  friendly  tribe  of 
Indians,  who  freely  administered  to  their  neces- 
sities. On  this  river  they  procured  two  canoes, 
in  which  they  dropped  down  the  stream  to  its 
confluence  with  the  Columbia,  and  then  down 
that  river  to  Astoria,  where  they  arrived  hag- 
gard and  emaciated,  and  perfectly  in  rags. 

Thus,  all  the  leading  persons  of  Mr.  Hunt's 
expedition  were  once  more  gathered  together, 
excepting  Mr.  Crooks,  of  whose  safety  they  enter- 
tained but  little  hope,  considering  the  feeble  con- 
dition in  which  they  had  been  compelled  to  leave 
him  in  the  heart  of  the  wilderness. 

A  day  was  now  given  up  to  jubilee,  to  celebrate 
the  arrival  of  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  companions,  and 
the  joyful  meeting  of  the  various  scattered  bands 
of  adventurers  at  Astoria.  The  colors  were 
hoisted ;  the  guns,  great  and  small,  were  fired ; 
there  was  a  feast  of  fish,  of  beaver,  and  vensiou, 
which  relished  well  with  men  who  had  so  long 
been  glad  to  revel  on  horse  flesh  and  dogs'  meat ; 


FESTIVAL  AT  ASTORIA. 


403 


quir- 
ibled 
with 

L  and 
\y  and 
ch  of 
Snake 
neigh- 
t  they 

From 
Biver, 
be    of 

neces- 
canoeS) 

tx)  its 
^  down 
id  hag- 

s. 

Hunt's 

yether, 
enter- 

)le  con- 

o  leave 


a  genial  allowance  of  grog  was  issued,  to  increase 
the  general  animation,  and  the  festivities  wound 
up,  as  usual,  with  a  grand  dance  at  night,  by  the 
Canadian  voyageurs.* 

^  The  distance  from  St.  Louis  to  Astoria,  by  the  routa 
travelled  by  Hunt  and  M'Kenzie,  -was  upwards  of  thirty- five 
hundred  miles,  though  in  a  direct  line  it  does  not  exceed 
tiC^teen  hundred. 


alebrate 
►ns,  and 
d  bands 
•8   were 
fired ; 
ension, 
so  long 
meat ; 


II 


CHAPTER  XXXIX. 

HE  winter  passed  away  tranquilly  at 
Astoria.  The  apprehensions  of  hostil- 
ity from  the  natives  had  subsided;  in- 
deed, H»  the  season  advanced,  the  Indians  for  the 
most  part  had  disappeared  from  the  neighbor- 
hood, and  abandoned  the  sea-coast,  so  that,  for 
want  of  their  aid,  the  colonists  had  at  times  suf- 
fered considerably  for  want  of  provisions.  The 
hunters  belonging  to  the  establishment  made  fre- 
quent and  wide  excursions,  but  with  very  moder- 
ate success.  There  were  some  deer  and  a  few 
bears  to  be  found  in  the  vicinity,  and  elk  in  great 
numbers ;  the  country,  however,  was  so  rough, 
and  the  woods  so  close  and  entangled  that  it  was 
almost  impossible  to  beat  up  the  game.  The 
prevalent  rains  of  winter,  also,  rendered  it  diffi- 
cult for  the  hunter  to  keep  his  arms  in  order. 
The  quantity  of  game,  therefore,  brought  in  by 
the  hunters  was  extremely  scanty,  and  it  was 
frequently  necessary  to  put  all  hands  on  very 
moderate  allowance.  Towards  spring,  however, 
the  fishing  season  commenced  —  the  season  of 
plenty  on  the  Columbia.  About  the  beginning 
of  February,  a  small  kind  of  fish,  about  six 
inches  long,  called  by  the  natives  the  uthlecan, 
and  resembling  the  smelt,  made  its  appearance 


COLUMBIA  RIVER  FISHERIES. 


405 


lly  at 

hostil- 

d;  in- 

br  the 

ghbor- 

at,  for 

63  suf- 

,     The 

ide  fre- 

moder- 
a  few 

n  great 
rough, 

;  it  was 

.     Tlie 

it  diffi- 

i  order, 
in  by 
it  was 
>n  very 
lowever, 
.son    of 
ginning 
lout    six 
ithlecau, 
>earance 


at  ih'^  mouth  of  the  river.  It  is  said  to  be  of 
delicious  flavor,  and  so  fat  as  to  burn  like  a 
candle,  for  which  it  is  often  used  by  the  na- 
tives. It  enters  the  river  in  immense  shoals^ 
like  solid  columns,  often  extending  to  the  depth 
of  five  or  more  feet,  and  is  scooped  up  by  the 
natives  with  small  nets  at  the  end  of  poles.  In 
this  way  they  will  soon  fill  a  canoe,  or  form  a 
great  heap  upon  the  river  banks.  These  fish 
constitute  a  principal  article  of  their  food  :  the 
women  drying  them  and  stringing  them  on  cords. 
As  the  uthlecan  is  only  foUnd  in  the  lowei  part 
of  the  river,  the  arrival  of  it  soon  brought  back 
the  natives  to  the  coast ;  who  again  resorted  to 
the  factory  to  trade,  and  from  that  time  fumis^hed 
plentiful  supplies  of  fish. 

The  sturgeon  makes  its  appearafioe  iii  the 
river  shortly  after  the  uthlecan,  and  is  t«ken  in 
different  Ways  by  the  natives:  sometimes  they 
spear  it ;  but  oftener  they  use  the  hook  and  line, 
and  the  net.  Occasionally,  they  sink  a  cord  in 
the  river  by  a  heavy  weight,  with  a  buoy  at  the 
upper  end,  to  keep  it  floating.  To  this  cord 
several  hooks  are  attached  by  short  lines,  a  few 
feet  distant  from  each  other,  and  baited  with 
small  fish.  This  apparatus  is  often  set  towards 
Aight,  and  by  the  next  morning  several  sturgeon 
will  be  found  hooked  by  it ;  for  though  a  large 
And  strong  fish,  it  makes  but  little  resistance  when 
ensnared. 

The  salmon,  which  are  the  prime  fish  of  the 
Columbia,  and  as  important  to  the  piscatory 
tribes  as  are  the  b  'Saloes  to  the  huutei'S  of  thi» 


40G 


ASTORIA, 


prairies,  do  not  enter  the  river  until  towards  the  lat- 
ter part  of  May,  from  which  time,  until  the  middle 
of  August,  they  abound,  and  are  taken  in  vast 
quantities,  either  with  the  spear  or  seine,  and 
mostly  in  shallow  Water.  An  inferior  species 
succeeds,  and  continues  from  August  to  Decem- 
ber. It  is  remarkable  for  having  a  double  row 
of  teeth,  half  an  inch  long  and  extremely  sharp, 
from  whence  it  has  received  the  name  of  the 
dog-toothed  salmon.  It  is  generally  killed  with 
the  spear  in  small  rivulets,  and  smoked  for  win- 
ter provision.  We  have  noticed  in  a  former 
chapter  the  mode  in  which  the  salmon  are  taken 
and  cured  at  the  falls  of  the  Columbia .-;  and  put 
up  in  parcels  for  exportation.  From  these  differ- 
ent fisheries  of  the  river  tribes,  the  establishment 
at  Astoria  had  to  derive  much  of  its  precarious 
supplies  of  provisions,  s/ 

A  year*s  residence  at  the  mouth  of  the  Co- 
lumbia, and  various  expeditions  in  the  interior, 
had  now  given  the  Astorians  some  idea  of  the 
country.  The  whole  coast  is  described  as  re- 
markably rugged  and  mountainous;  with  dense 
forests  of  hemlock,  spruce,  white  and  red  cedar, 
cotton-wood,  white  oak,  white  and  swamp  ash, 
willow,  and  a  few  walnut.  There  is  likewise  an 
undergrowth  of  aromatic  shrubs,  creepers,  and 
clambering  vines,  that  render  the  forests  almost 
impenetrable  ;  togetlier  with  berries  of  various 
kinds,  such  as  gooseberries,  strawberries,  rasp- 
berries, both  red  and  yellow,  very  large  and  finely 
flavored  whortleberries,  cranberries,  serviceberries, 
blackberries,  cui  rants,  sloes,  and  wild  and  choke 
cherries. 


ANIMAL  PRODVCTIONa, 


407 


lelat- 
liddle 
\  vast 
s,  and 
pecies 
lecem- 
e  row 
sharp, 
of  the 
d  with 
►r  win- 
former 
)  taken 
ad  put 
)  differ- 
shment 
carious 

he  Co- 
nterior, 
of  the 
as  re- 
dense 
cedar, 
ip  ash, 
ise  an 
irs,  and 
almost 
various 
|9,  rasp- 
d  finely 
iberries, 
choke 


Among  the  flowering  vines  is  one  deserving 
of  particular  notice.  Each  flower  is  composed 
of  six  leaves  or  petals,  about  three  inches  in 
length,  of  a  beautiful  crimson,  the  inside  spotted 
with  white.  Its  leaves,  of  a  fine  green,  are  oval, 
and  disposed  by  threes.  This  plant  climbs  upon 
the  trees  without  attaching  itself  to  them :  when 
it  has  reached  the  topmost  branches,  it  descends 
perpendicularly,  and  as  it  continues  to  grow,  ex- 
tends from  tree  to  tree,  until  its  various  stalks 
interlace  the  grove  like  the  rigging  of  a  ship. 
The  stems  or  trunks  of  this  vine  are  tougher  and 
more  flexible  than  willow,  and  are  from  fifly  to 
one  hundred  fathoms  in  length.  From  the  fibres, 
the  Indians  manufacture  baskets  of  such  close 
texture  as  to  hold  water. 

The  principal  quadrupeds  that  had  been  seen 
by  the  colonists  in  their  various  expeditions  were 
the  stag,  fallow  deer,  hart,  black  and  grizzly  bear, 
antelope,  ahsahta  or  bighorn,  beaver,  sea  and  river 
otter,  muskrat,  fox,  wolf,  and  panther,  the  latter 
extremely  rare.  The  only  domestic  animals 
among  the  natives  were  horses  and  dogs. 

The  country  abounded  with  aquatic  and  land 
birds,  such  as  swans,  wild  geese,  brant,  ducks  of 
almost  every  description,  pelicans,  herons,  gulls, 
snipes,  curlews,  eagles,  vultures,  crows,  ravens, 
magpies,  woodpeckers,  pigeons,  partridges,  pheas- 
ants, grouse,  and  a  great  variety  of  singing 
birds. 

There  were  few  reptiles;  the  only  dangerous 
kinds  were  the  rattlesnake^  and  one  striped  with 
black,  yellow,  and    white,  about   four  feet  long. 


i 


m 


ASTORIA. 


Aition^  th&  lizard  kind  was  one  about  nine  or  ten 
inches  in  length,  exclusive  of  the  tail,  and  three 
inches  in  circumference.  The  tail  was  round,  and 
of  the  same  length  as  the  body.  The  head  was 
triangular,  covered  with  small  square  scales.  The 
upper  part  of  the  body  Was  likewise  covered  with 
small  scales,  green,  yellow^  black,  and  blue* 
E&ch  foot  had  five  toes,  furnished  wiih  strong 
nails,  probably  to  aid  it  in  burrowing,  as  it  usu- 
ally lived  under  ground  on  the  plcins. 

A  remarkable  fact,  characteribiic  of  the  coun 
try  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  is  the  mild- 
ness and  equability  of  the  climate.  The  great 
mountain  barrier  seems  to  divide  the  contineni 
into  different  climates,  even  in  the  same  degrees 
of  latitude.  The  rigorous  winters  and  sultry 
summers,  and  all  the  capricious  inequalities  of 
temperature  prevalent  on  the  Atlantic  side  of  thd 
mountains,  are  "  'it  little  felt  on  their  western 
declivities.  The  countries  between  them  and  the 
Pacific  are  blessed  with  milder  and  steadier  tem« 
perature,  resembling  th6  climates  of  parallel  lati-^ 
tudes  in  £«urope.  In  the  plains  and  valleys  but 
little  snow  falls  throughout  the  winter,  and  usu- 
ally melts  while  falling.  It  rarely  lies  on  the 
ground  more  than  two  days  at  a  time,  except 
on  the  summits  of  the  mountains.  The  winters 
are  rainy  rather  than  cold.  The  rains  for  five 
months,  from  the  middle  of  October  to  the  mid- 
dle of  March,  are  almost  incessant,  and  often  ac- 
companied by  tremendous  thunder  and  lightning. 
The  winds  prevalent  at  this  season  are  from  tlio 
BOttth  and  southeast,   which    usually  bring  rain* 


CLIMATE   WEST  OF   THE  MOUNTAINS.    409 


jt  tea 

three 

i,  and 

1  was 

The 
1  with 

blue* 
strong 
b  usu- 

coun 
mild* 
I  great 
ntineni 
Jegreea 
sultry 
ties  of 
of  the 
estem 
,nd  the 
T  tem- 
lel  lati'' 
tys  but 
d  usu- 
n  the 
except 
inters 
tor  five 
te  mid- 
ten  ac- 
ihtning. 
lorn  the 
Ig  rain* 


Those  from  the  north  to  the  southwest  are  the 
harbingers  of  fair  weather  and  a  clear  sky.  The 
residue  of  the  year,  from  the  middle  of  March 
to  the  middle  of  October,  an  interval  of  seven 
months,  is  serene  and  delightful.  There  is  scarcely 
any  rain  throughout  this  time,  yet  the  face  of 
the  country  is  kept  fresh  and  verdant  by  nightly 
dews,  and  occasionally  by  humid  fogs  in  the  morn- 
ings. These  are  not  considered  prejudicial  to 
health,  since  both  the  natives  and  the  whites  sleep 
in  the  open  air  with ,  perfect  impunity.  While 
this  equable  and  bland  temperature  prevails 
throughout  the  lower  oountry,  the  peaks  and  ridges 
of  the  vast  mountains  by  which  it  is  dominated, 
are  covered  with  perpetual  snow.  This  renders 
them  discernible  at  a  great  distance,  shining  at 
times  like  bright  summer  clouds,  at  other  times 
assuming  the  most  aerial  tinis,  and  always  form- 
ing brilliant  and  striking  features  in  the  vast 
landscape.  The  mild  temperature  prevalent 
throughout  the  country  is  attributed  by  some  to 
the  succession  of  winds  from  the  Pacific  Ocean, 
extending  from  latitude  twenty  degrees  to  at 
least  fifty  degrees  north.  These  temper  the  heat 
of  summer,  so  that  in  the  shade  no  one  is  in- 
commoded by  perspiration ;  they  also  soften  the 
rigors  of  winter,  and  produce  such  a  moderation 
in  the  climate,  that  the  inhabitants  can  wear  the 
same  dress  throughout  the  year. 

The  soil  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  sea-coast 
is  of  a  brown  color,  inclining  to  red,  and  gener 
ally  poor ;  being  a  mixture  of  clay  and  gravel 
In  the  interior,  and  especially  in  the  valleys  of 


410 


ASTORIA. 


the  Rocky  Mountains,  the  soil  is  generally  black- 
ish, though  sometimes  yollow.  It  is  frequently 
mixed  with  marl,  and  with  marine  substances  in 
a  state  of  decomposition.  This  kind  of  soil  ex- 
tends to  a  considerable  depth,  as  may  be  per- 
ceived in  the  deep  cuts  made  by  ravines,  and  by 
the  beds  of  rivers.  The  vegetation  in  these  val- 
leys is  much  more  abundant  than  near  the  coast ; 
in  fact,  it  is  in  thesa  fertile  intervals,  locked  up 
between  rocky  sievris,  or  scooped  out  from  bsr- 
ren  wastes,  that  population  must  extend  itself, 
as  it  were,  in  veins  and  ramifications,  if  ever  the 
regions  be}  md.  the  mountains  should  become  civ- 
ilized. 


HP 


CHAPTER  XL. 


BRIEF  mention  has  already  been  made 
of  the  tribes  or  hordes  existing  nMut 
the  iowrer  part  of  the  Columbia  at  the 
time  of  the  settlement ;  a  few  more  particulars 
concerning  them  may  be  acceptable.  The  four 
tribes  nearest  to  Astoria,  and  with  whom  the 
traders  had  most  intercourse,  were,  as  has  here- 
tofore been  observed,  tlie  Chinooks,  the  Clatsops, 
the  Wahkiacums,  and  the  Cathlamets.  The 
Chinooks  reside  chiefly  along  the  banks  of  a 
river  of  the  same  name,  running  parallel  to  the 
sea-coast,  through  a  low  country  studded  with 
stagnant  pools,  and  emptying  itself  into  Baker's 
Bay,  a  few  miles  from  Cape  Disappointment. 
This  was  the  tribe  over  which  Comcomly,  the 
one-eyed  chieftain,  held  sway ;  it  boasted  two 
hundred  and  fourteen  fighting  men.  Their  chief 
subsistence  was  on  fish,  with  an  occasional  regale 
of  the  flesh  of  elk  and  deer,  and  of  wild-fowl 
from  the  neighboring  ponds. 

The  Clatsops  resided  on  both  sides  of  Point 
Adams ;  they  were  the  mere  relics  of  a  tribe 
which  had  been  nearly  swept  off  by  the  small- 
pox, and  did  not  number  more  than  one  hun- 
ired  and  eighty  fighting  men. 

The  Wahkiacums,  or  Waak-i-cums,  inhabited 


'm 


41t 


AST  OB  f A, 


the  north  side  of  the  Columlia,  and  numbered 
sixty-six  warriors.  They  and  the  Chinooks 
were  originally  the  same  ;  b.ut  a  dispute  arising 
about  two  generations  previous  to  the  time  of 
the  settlement,  between  the  ruling  chief  and  his 
brother  Wahkiacum,  the  latter  seceded,  and  with 
his  adherents  formed  the  present  horde  which 
continues  to  go  by  his  name.  In  this  way  new 
tribes  or  clans  are  formed,  and  lurking  causes  of 
hostility  engendered. 

The  Cathlam.ets  liyed  opposite  to  the  lower 
village  of  the  Wahkiacums,  and  numbered  ninety- 
four  warriors. 

These  four  tribes,  or  rather  clans,  hate  every 
appearance  of  springing  from  the  same  origin, 
resembling  each  other  in  person,  dress,  language, 
and  manners.  They  are  rather  a  diminutive 
race,  generally  below  five  feet  five  inches,  with 
crooked  legs  and  thick  ankles  —  a  deformity 
caused  by  their  passing  so  much  of  their  time 
sitting  or  squatting  upon  the  calves  of  their  legs 
and  their  heels,  in  the  bottom  of  their  canoes  — • 
a  favorite  position,  which  they  retain,  even  when 
on  shore.  The  women  increase  the  deformity  by 
wearing  tight  bandages  round  the  ankles,  which 
prevent  the  circulation  of  the  blood,  and  causes  a 
swelling  of  the  muscles  of  the  leg. 

Neither  sex  can  boast  of  personal  beauty. 
Their  faces  are  round,  with  small  but  animated 
eyes.  Their  noses  are  broad  and  flat  at  top, 
and  fleshy  at  the  end,  with  large  nostrils.  They 
have  wide  mouths,  thick  lips,  and  short,  irregu- 
lar and  dirty  teeth.     Indeed  good  teetb  are  sel 


DRESS   or   THE  NATIVES. 


418 


ered 
ooks 
ising 
e  of 
1  his 
with 
krhich 
new 
68  of 

lowef 
inety- 

every 
origin, 
piage, 
iiutivtJ 
,  with 
)rmity 

time 

legs 
oes  — 

when 
ity  by 

which 
Lusc3  a 

leauty. 
imated 
it  top, 
They 
frregu- 
rd  sel 


dom  to  be  aeon  amon^  the  tribes  west  of   the 
Rocky  Muuiitains,  who  live  chiefly  on  fish. 

In  the  early  stages  of  their  intercourse  with 
white  men,  these  savages  were  but  scantily  dad. 
In  summer  time  the  men  went  entirely  naked  ; 
in  the  winter  and  in  bad  weather  the  men  wore 
a  small  robe,  reacliing  to  the  middle  of  the  thigh, 
made  of  the  skins  of  animals,  or  of  the  wool  of 
the  mountain  sheep.  Occasionally,  they  wore 
a  kind  of  mantle  of  matting,  to  keep  off  the 
rain ;  but,  having  thus  protected  the  back  and 
shoulders,  they  left  the  rest  of  the  body  naked. 

The  women  wore  similar  robes,  though  shorter, 
not  reaching  below  the  waist;  beside  which,  they 
had  a  kind  of  petticoat,  or  fringe,  reaching^  from 
the  waist  to  the  knee,  formed  of  the  fibres  of 
cedar  bark,  broken  into  strands,  or  a  tissue  of 
silk  grass  twisted  and  knotted  at  the  ends.  This 
was  the  usual  dress  of  the  women  in  summer ; 
should  the  weather  be  inclement,  they  added  a 
vest  of  skins,  similar  to  the  robe. 

The  men  carefully  eradicated  every  vestige  of 
a  beard,  considering  it  a  great  deformity.  They 
looked  with  disgust  at  the  whiskers  and  well-fur- 
nished chins  of  the  white  men,  and  in  derision 
called  them  Long-beards.  Both  sexes,  on  the 
otiier  hand,  cherished  the  hair  of  the  head,  which 
with  them  is  generally  black  and  rather  coarse. 
They  allowed  it  to  grow  to  a  great  length  and 
were  very  proud  and  careful  of  it,  sometimes 
wearing  it  plaited,  sometimes  wound  round  the 
head  in  fanciful  tresses.  No  greater  affront  could 
be  offered  to  them  than  to  cut  off  their  treasured 
locks. 


' 


414 


ASTORIA. 


They  had  conical  hats  with  narrow  rims,  neatly 
woven  of  bear  grass  or  of  the  fibres  of  cedar  bark, 
interwoven  with  designs  of  various  shapes  and 
colors ;  sometimes  merely  squares  and  triangles, 
at  other  times  rude  representations  of  canoes, 
with  men  fishing  and  harpooning.  These  hats 
were  nearly  waterproof,  and  extremely  durable. 

The  favorite  ornaments  of  the  men  were  col- 
lars of  bears'  claws,  the  proud  trophies  of  hunting 
exploits ;  while  the  women  and  children  wore 
similar  decorations  of  elks'  tusks.  An  inter- 
course  with  the  white  traders,  however,  soon 
effected  a  change  in  the  toilets  of  both  sexes. 
They  became  fond  of  arraying  themselves  in  any 
article  of  civilized  dress  which  they  could  pro- 
cure, and  often  made  a  most  grotesque  appear- 
ance. They  adapted  many  articles  of  finery, 
also,  to  their  own  previous  tastes.  Both  sexes 
were  fond  of  adorning  themselves  with  bracelets 
of  iron,  brass,  or  copper.  They  were  delighted, 
also,  with  blue  and  white  beads,  particularly  the 
former,  and  wore  broad  tight  bands  of  them 
round  the  waist  and  ankles,  large  rolls  of  them 
round  the  neck,  and  pendants  of  them  in  the 
ears.  The  men,  especially,  who  in  savage  life 
carry  a  passion  for  personal  decoration  further 
than  the  females,  did  not  think  their  gala  equip- 
ments complete  unless  they  had  a  jewel  ofhaiqua, 
or  wampum,  dangling  at  the  nose.  Thus  ar- 
rayed, their  hair  besmeared  with  fish  oil,  and 
their  bodies  bedaubed  with  red  clay,  they  cousid* 
ered  themselves  irresistible. 

When  on   warlike  expeditions,  they  painted 


n 


THEIR  PECULIAR  DEFORMITY. 


415 


tiatly 

bark, 
and 

igles, 

inoes, 
hats 

.ble. 

s  col- 

inting 
wore 
inter- 

,  soon 
sexes. 

in  any 

d  pro- 

ippear- 
finery, 
sexes 
aceletB 
ighted, 
rly  the 
f  them 
f  them 
in  the 
ge  li^e 
further 
equip- 
haiqua, 
hus   ar- 
oil,  and 
consid- 

painted 


their  faces  and  bodies  in  the  most  hideous  and 
grotesque  manner,  according  to  the  universal 
practice  of  American  savages.  Their  arms 
were  bows  and  arrows,  spears,  and  war  clubs. 
Some  wore  a  corselet,  formed  of  pieces  of  hard 
wood,  laced  together  with  bear  grass,  so  as  to 
form  a  light  coat  of  mail,  pliant  to  the  body ; 
and  a  kind  of  casque  of  cedar  bark,  leather,  and 
bear  grass,  sufficient  to  protect  the  head  from 
an  arrow  or  war  club.  A  more  complete  article 
of  defensive  armor  was  a  buff  jerkin  or  shirt  of 
great  thickness,  made  of  doubling's  of  elk  skin, 
and  reaching  to  the  feet,  holes  being  left  for  the 
head  and  arms.  This  was  perfectly  arrow- 
proof;  add  to  which,  it  was  often  endowed  with 
charmed  virtuos,  by  the  spells  and  mystic  cere- 
monials of  the  medicine  man,  or  conjurer 

Of  the  peculiar  custom,  prevalent  among  these 
people,  of  flattening  the  head,  we  have  already 
spoken.  It  is  one  of  those  instances  of  human 
caprice,  like  the  crippling  of  the  feet  of  females 
in  China,  which  are  quite  incomprehensible. 
This  custom  prevails  principally  among  the  tribes 
on  the  sea-coast,  and  about  the  lower  parts  of 
the  rivers.  How  far  it  extends  along  the  coast 
we  are  not  able  to  ascertain.  Some  of  the  tribes, 
both  north  and  south  of  the  Columbia,  practice 
it ;  but  they  all  6peak  the  Chinook  language,  and 
probably  originated  from  the  same  stock.  As 
far  as  we  can  learn,  the  remoter  tribes,  which 
speak  an  entirely  different  language,  do  not 
flatten  the  head.  This  absurd  custom  declines, 
also,  in  receding  from  the  shores  of  the  Pacific ; 


416 


ASTORIA. 


few  traces  of  it  are  to  be  found  among  the  tribes 
of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  after  crossing  the 
mountains  it  disappears  altogether.  Those  In- 
dians, therefore,  about  the  head  waters  of  the 
Columbia,  and  in  the  solitary  mountain  regions, 
who  are  often  called  Flatheads,  must  not  be 
supposed  to  be  characterized  by  this  deformity. 
It  is  an  appellation  often  given  by  the  hunters 
east  of  the  mountain  chain,  to  all  the  western  In- 
dians, excepting  the  Snakes.      \^ 

The  religious  belief  of  these  people  was  ex- 
tremely limited  and  confined ;  or  rather,  in  all 
probability,  their  explanations  were  but  little 
understood  by  their  visitors.  They  had  an  idea 
of  a  benevolent  and  omnipotent  spirit,  the  creatoi* 
of  all  things.  They  represent  him  as  assuming 
various  shapes  at  pleasure,  but  generally  that  of 
an  immense  bird.  He  usually  inhabits  the  sun, 
but  occasionally  wings  his  way  through  the  aerial 
regions,  and  sees  all  that  is  doing  upon  earth. 
Should  anything  displease  him,  he  vents  his 
wrath  in  terrific  storms  and  tempests,  the  light- 
ning being  the  flashes  of  his  eyes,  and  the  thun- 
der the  clapping  of  his  wings.  To  propitiate  his 
&,vor  they  offer  to  him  annual  sacrifices  of  sal- 
mon and  venison,  the  first  fruits  of  their  fishing 
and  hunting. 

Beside  this  aerial  spirit  they  believe  in  an  in- 
ferior one,  who  inhabits  the  fire,  and  of  whom 
they  are  in  perpetual  dread,  as,  though  he  pos- 
sesses equally  the  power  of  good  and  evil,  the 
evil  is  apt  to  predominate.  They  endeavor, 
theretbre,  to  keep  him  in  good  humor  by  frequent 


MEDICINE  MEN. 


4J7 


sun, 

aerial 

earth, 
his 
light- 
thun- 
.te  hia 
>f'  sal- 
Uhing 

m  in- 
Iwhom 
poa- 
ll,  the 
leavor, 
Weni 


offerings.  He  is  supposed  also  to  have  great 
influence  with  the  winged  spirit,  their  sovereign 
protector  and  benefactor.  They  implore  him, 
therefore,  to  act  as  their  interpreter,  and  procure 
them  all  desirable  tilings,  such  as  success  in  fish- 
ing and  hunting,  abundance  of  game,  fleet  horses, 
obedient  wives,  and  male  children. 

These  Indians  have  Hkewise  their  priests,  or 
conjurers,  or  medicine  men,  who  pretend  to  be  in 
the  confidence  of  the  deities,  and  the  expounders 
and  enforcers  of  their  will.  Each  of  these 
.medicine  men  has  his  idols  carved  in  wood, 
representing  the  spirits  of  the  air  and  of  the  fire, 
under  some  rude  and  grotesque  form  of  a  horse, 
a  bear,  a  beaver,  or  other  quadruped,  or  that  of 
bird  or  fish.  These  idols  are  hung  round  with 
amulets  and  votive  ofiV^rings,  such  as  beavers' 
.teeth,  and  bears'  and  eagles'  claws. 

When  any  chief  personage  is  on  his  death-bed, 
or  dangerously  ill,  the  medicine  men  are  sent  for. 
Each  brings  with  him  his  idols,  with  which  he  re- 
tires into  a  canoe  to  hold  a  consultation.  As  doc- 
tors are  prone  to  disagree,  so  these  medicine  men 
have  now  and  then  a  violent  altercation  as  to  the 
malady  of  the  patient,  or  the  treatment  of  it. 
To  settle  this  they  beat  their  idols  soundly  against 
each  other ;  whichever  first  loses  a  tooth  or  a 
claw  is  considered  as  confuted,  and  his  votary  re- 
tires from  the  field. 

Polygamy  is  not  only  allowed,  but  considered 
honorable,  and  the  greater  number  of  wives  a 
mnn  can  maintain,  the  more  important  is  he  in 
the  oycs   of  tht    tribe.     The  first  wife,  howRvar 

«<7 


418 


ASTORIA. 


takes  rank  of  all  the  others,  and  is   considered 
mistress  of  the  house.     Still  the  domestic  estab- 
lishment is  liable  to  jealousies  and  cabals,  and. 
the  lord  and   master  has  much  difficulty  in  main- 
taining harmony  in  his  jangling  household. 

In  the  manuscript  from  which  we  draw  many 
of  these  particulars,  it  is  stated  that  he  who  ex- 
ceeds his  neighbors  in  the  number  of  his  wives, 
male  children,  and  slaves,  is  elected  chief  of  the 
village ;  a  title  to  offic©  which  we  do  not  recollect 
ever  before  to  have  met  with,  v/ 

Feuds  are  frequent  among  these  tribes,  but 
are  not  very  deadly.  They  have  occasionally 
pitched  battles,  fought  on  appointed  days,  and  at 
specific  places,  which  are  generally  the  banks  of 
a  rivulet.  The  adverse  parties  post  themselves 
on  the  opposite  sides  of  the  stream,  and  at  such 
distances  that  the  battles  often  last  a  long  while 
before  any  blood  is  shed.  The  number  of  killed 
and  wounded  seldom  exceed  half  a  dozen. 
Should  Jhe  damage  be  equal  on  each  side,  the 
war  is  considered  as  honorably  concluded ;  should 
one  party  lose  more  than  the  other,  it  is  entitled 
to  a  compensation  in  slaves  or  other  property, 
otherwise  hostilities  are  liable  to  be  renewed  at 
a  future  day.  They  are  much  given  also  to 
predatory  inroads  into  the  territories  of  their  en- 
emies, and  sometimes  of  their  friendly  neighbors. 
Should  they  fall  upon  a  band  of  inferior  force, 
or  upon  a  village,  weakly  defended,  they  act  with 
the  ferocity  of  true  poltroons,  slaying  all  the  men, 
and  carrying  off  the  women  and  children  as 
•laves.     As  to  the  property,  it   is  packed    upon 


AMUSEMENTS.  —  STEALING. 


419 


red 

ab- 

Eind. 

ftin- 

lany 

ex- 
ives, 

the 
)llect 

,  but 
nally 
nd  at 
iks  of 
selves 
8iich 
while 
killed 
ozen. 
,  the 
hould 
titled 
perty, 
ired  at 
Iso    to 
ir  en- 
hbora. 
force, 
I  with 
e  men, 
en    as 
upoa 


e 


n 


hu>rses  which  they  bring  with  them  for  the  pur- 
pose. They  are  mean  and  paltry  as  warriors, 
and  altogether  inlerior  in  heroic  qualities  to  the 
savages  of  the  buffalo  plains  on  the  east  side  of 
the  mountains. 

A  great  portion  of  their  time  is  passed  in  rev 
elry,  music,  dancing,  and  gambling.  Their  musi< 
scarcely  deserves  the  name ;  the  instrument? 
being  of  the  rudest  kind.  Their  singing  is  harsh 
and  discordant ;  the  songs  are  chiefly  extempore, 
relating  to  passing  circumstances,  the  persons 
present,  or  any  trifling  object  that  strikes  the  at- 
tention of  the  singer.  They  have  several  kinds 
of  dances,  some  of  them  lively  and  pleasing. 
The  women  are  rarely  permitted  to  dance  with 
the  men,  but  form  groups  apart,  dancing  to  the 
same  instrument  and  song. 

They  have  a  great  passion  for  play,  and  a  va- 
riety "^f  games.  To  such  a  pitch  of  excitement 
are  they  sometimes  roused,  that  they  gamble 
away  everything  they  possess,  even  to  their 
wives  and  children.  They  are  notorious  thieves, 
also,  and  proud  of  their  dexterity.  He  who  is 
frequently  successful,  gains  much  applause  and 
popularity ;  but  the  clumsy  thief,  who  is  detected 
in  some  bungling  attempt,  is  scoffed  at  and  de- 
spised, and  sometin^es  severely  punished. 

Such  are  a  few  leading  characteristics  of  the 
natives  in  the  neighborhood  of  Autoria.  They 
appear  to  us  inferior  in  many  respects  to  the 
*ribes  east  of  the  mountains,  the  bold  rovers  of 
the  prairies ;  and  to  partake  much  of  the  Esqui- 
Tiaux  character  ;  elevated  in  some  degree  by  a 


420 


ASTORIA, 


i 


more  genial  climate,  and  more  varied  style  of 
I'Ving. 

The  habi>s  of  traffic  engendered  at  the  cata- 
racts of  the  Columbia,  have  had  their  influence 
along  the  coast.  The  Chinooks  and  other  In- 
dians at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  soon  proved 
themselves  keen  traders,  and  in  their  early  deal- 
ings with  the  Astorians  never  hesitated  to  ask 
three  times  what  they  considered  the  real  value 
of  an  article.  They  were  inquisitive,  also,  in  the 
extreme,  and  impertinently  intrusive ;  and  were 
prone  to  indulge  in  scoffing  and  ridicule  at  the 
expense  of  the  strangers. 

In  one  thing,  however,  they  showed  superior 
judgment  and  self  command  to  most  of  their  race ; 
this  was,  in  their  abstinence  from  ardent  spirits, 
and  the  abhorrence  and  disgust  with  which  they 
regarded  a  drunkard.  On  one  occasion,  a  son  of 
Comcomly  had  been  induced  to  drink  freely  at 
the  factory,  and  went  home  in  a  state  of  intoxica- 
tion, playing  all  kinds  of  mad  pranks,  until  he 
sank  into  a  strpor,  in  which  he  remained  for  two 
days.  The  old  chieftain  repaired  to  his  friend, 
M'Dougal,  with  indignation  flaming  in  his  coun- 
tenance, and  bitterly  reproached  him  for  having 
permitted  his  son  to  degrade  himself  into  a  beast, 
and  to  render  himself  an  object  of  scorn  and 
laughter  to  his  slave. 


Jol 
on( 

Hel 


of 


ita- 
5nce 

In- 
)ved 
leal- 

a»k 

rftllie 

1  the 
were 

t  the 

perior 
race ; 
iph'its, 
I  they 
kon  of 
lelv  at 
:oxica- 
itil  he 
•r  two 
fi'iend, 
coun- 
aving 
beast, 
L'D  and 


CHAPTER  XLI. 

S  the  spring  opened,  the  little  settlement 
of  Astoria  was  in  agitation,  and  prepared 
to  send  forth  various  expeditions.  Sev- 
eral important  things  were  to  be  done.  It  was 
necessary  to  send  a  supply  of  goods  to  the  trading 
post  of  Mr.  David  Stuart,  established  in  the  pre- 
ceding autumn  on  the  Oakinagan.  The  cache,  oi 
secret  deposit,  made  by  Mr.  Hunt  at  the  Caldron 
Linn,  was  likewise  to  be  visited,  and  the  merchan- 
dise and  other  effects  left  there,  to  be  brought  to 
Astoria.  A  third  object  of  moment  was  to  send 
dispatches  overland  to  Mr.  Astor  at  New  York, 
informing  him  of  the  state  of  affairs  at  the  settle- 
ment, and  the  fortunes  of  the  several  expeditions. 

The  task  of  carrying  supplies  to  Oakinagan 
was  assigned  to  JMr.  Robert  Stuart,  a  spirited  and 
enterprising  young  man,  nephew  to  the  one  who 
had  established  the  post.  The  cache  was  to  be 
sought  out  by  two  of  the  clerks,  named  Russell 
Farnham  and  Donald  M'Gilles,  conducted  by  a 
guide,  and  accompanied  by  eight  men,  to  assist  in 
bringing  home  the  goods. 

As  to  the  dispatches,  they  were  confided  to  Mr. 
John  Reed,  the  clerk,  the  same  who  had  conducted 
one  of  the  exploring  detachments  of  Snake  River. 
He  was  now  to   trace  back  his  way  across  the 


If 


422 


ASTORIA. 


mountains  by  the  same  route  by  which  he  had 
come,  with  no  other  companions  or  escort  than 
Ben  Jones,  the  KertUx-jky  hunter,  and  two  Ca- 
nadians. As  '  w^  till  hoped  that  Mr.  Crooks 
might  be  in  ex'  .teijcc  and  that  Mr.  Reed  and  his 
party  might  meet  m\^.  him  in  the  course  of  their 
route,  they  were  charges  /^ith  a  small  supply  of 
goods  and  provisions,  to  aid  that  gentleman  on  his 
way  to  Astoria. 

When  the  expedition  of  Reed  was  made  known, 
Mr.  M'Lellan  announced  his  determination  to  ac- 
company it.  He  had  long  been  dissatisfied  with 
tJie  smallness  of  his  interest  in  the  copartnership, 
and  had  requested  an  additional  number  of  shares  ; 
liis  request  not  being  complied  with,  he  resolved 
to  abandon  the  company.  M'Lellan  was  a  man  of 
a  singularly  self-willed  and*  decided  character, 
with  whom  persuasion  was  useless ;  he  was  per- 
mitted, therefore,  to  take  his  own  course  without 
opposition. 

As  to  Reed,  he  set  about  preparing  for  his 
hazardous  journey  with  the  zeal  of  a  true  Irish- 
man. He  had  a  tin  case  made,  in  which  the 
letters  and  papers  addressed  to  Mr.  Astor  were 
carefully  soldered  up.  This  case  he  intended  to 
strap  upon  his  shoulders,  so  as  to  bear  it  about 
with  him,  sleeping  and  waking,  in  all  changes  and 
chances,  by  land  or  by  water,  and  never  to  part 
with  it  but  with  his  life  ! 

As  the  route  of  these  several  parties  would  be 
the  same  for  nearly  four  hundred  miles  up  the 
Columbia,  and  within  that  distance  would  lie 
through   the   piratical   pass   of  the   rapids,  and 


THE  PIRATICAL  PASS. 


428 


nd 

an 
^a- 
)ks 
his 
lovr 
of 
his 


iwn, 
>  ao 
with 
ship, 
ires ; 
)lvecl 
lu  of 
icter. 
per- 
Ithout 

|r  lus 
llrish- 
the 
were 
led  to 
about 
IS  and 
part 

Id  be 

ip  the 

lid   lie 

and 


among  the  freebootiug  tribes  of  the  river,  it  waa 
thought  advisable  to  start  about  the  same  time, 
and  to  keep  together.  Accorduiglj,  on  the  22d 
of  March,  they  all  set  off,  to  the  number  of 
seventeen  men,  in  two  canoes  —  and  here  we 
cannot  but  pause  to  notice  the  hardihood  of  these 
several  expeditions,  so  insignificant  in  point  of 
force,  and  severally  destined  to  traverse  immense 
wildernesses,  where  larger  parties  had  experienced 
so  much  danger  and  distress.  When  recruits 
were  sought  in  the  preceding  year  among  experi- 
enced hunters  and  voyageurs  at  Montreal  and  St 
Louis,  it  was  considered  dangerous  to  attempt  to 
cross  the  Rocky  Mountains  with  less  than  sixty 
men  ;  and  yet  here  we  find  Reed  ready  to  push 
his  way  across  those  barriers  with  merely  three 
companions.  Such  is  the  fearlessness,  the  insen- 
sibility to  danger,  which  men  acquire  by  the 
habitude  of  constant  risk.  The  mind,  like  the 
body,  becomes  callous  by  exposure. 

The  little  associated  band  proceeded  up  the 
river,  under  the  command  of  Mr.  Robert  Stuart, 
and  arrived  early  in  the  month  of  April  at  the 
Long  Narrows,  that  notorious  plundering  place. 
Here  it  was  necessary  to  unload  the  canoes,  and 
to  transport  both  thdm  and  their  cargoes  to  the 
head  of  the  Narrows  by  land.  Their  party  was 
too  few  in  number  for  the  purpose.  They  were 
obliged,  therefore,  to  seek  the  assistance  of  the 
Cathlasco  Indians,  who  undertook  to  carry  the 
goods  on  their  horses.  Forward  then  they  set, 
the  Indians  with  their  horses  well  freighted,  and 
ihe  first  load  convoyed  by  Reed  and  five  men, 


'liii 


■>*'i 


i24 


ASTORIA. 


well  armed ;  the  gallant  Irishman  itriding  a1on|^ 
at  the  heail,  with  his  tin  case  of  dispatches  glit- 
tering on  his  back.  In  passing,  however,  through 
a  rockj  and  intricate  defile,  some  of  the  freeboot- 
ing  vagrants  turned  their  horses  up  a  narrow 
path  and  galloped  off,  carrying  with  them  two 
bales  of  goods,  and  a  number  of  smaller  articles. 
To  follow  them  was  useless ;  indeed,  it  was  with 
much  ado  that  the  convoy  got  into  port  with  the 
residue  of  the  cargoes  ;  for  some  of  the  guards 
were  pillaged  of  their  knives  and  pocket  hand- 
kerchiefs, and  the  lustrous  tin  case  of  Mr.  John 
Reed  was  in  imminent  jeopardy.   '^ 

Mr.  Stuart  heard  of  these  depredations,  and 
hastened  forward  to  the  relief  of  the  convoy,  but 
could  not  reach  them  before  dusk,  by  which  time 
they  had  arrived  at  the  village  of  Wish-ram,  al- 
ready noted  for  its  great  fishery,  and  the  knavish 
propensities  of  its  inhabitants.  Here  they  found 
themselves  benighted  in  a  strange  place,  and  sur- 
rounded by  savages  bent  on  pilfering,  if  not  upon 
open  robbery.  Not  knowing  what  active  course 
to  take,  they  remained  under  arms  all  night, 
without  closing  an  eye,  and  at  the  very  first  peep 
of  dawn,  when  objects  were  yet  scarce  visible, 
everything  was  hastily  embarked,  and,  without 
seeking  to  recover  the  stolen  effects,  they  pushed 
off  from  shore,  "  glad  to  bid  adieu,"  as  they  said, 
"  to  this  abominable  nest  of  miscreants." 

The  worthies  of  Wish-ram,  however,  were 
not  disposed  to  part  so  easily  with  their  visitors. 
Their  cupidity  had  been  quickened  by  the  plunder 
vrhich  they  had  already  taken,  and  their  confidence 


SURROUNDED  BY  PIRATE  INDIANS.    425 


increased  by  the  impunity  with  which  their  out- 
rage had  passed.  They  resolved,  therefore,  to 
take  further  toll  of  the  travellers,  and,  if  possible, 
to  capture  the  tin  case  of  dispatches ;  which 
shining  conspicuously  from  afar,  and  being  guarded 
by  John  Reed  with  such  especial  care,  must,  as 
they  supposed,  be  "  a  great  medicine." 

Accordingly,  Mr.  Stuart  and  his  comrades  had 
not  proceeded  fur  in  the  canoes,  when  they  beheld 
the  whole  rabble  of  Wish-ram  stringing  in  groups 
along  the  bank,  whooping  and  yelling,  and  gib- 
bering in  their  wild  jargon,  and  when  they  landed 
below  the  falls,  they  were  surrounded  by  upwards 
of  four  hundred  of  these  river  ruffians,  armed 
with  bows  and  arrows,  war  clubs,  and  other  savage 
weapons.  These  now  pressed  forward,  with  offers 
to  carry  the  canoes  and  effects  up  the  portage. 
Mr.  Stuart  declined  forwarding  the  goods,  alleg- 
ing the  lateness  of  the  hour ;  but,  to  keep  them 
in  good  humor,  informed  them,  that,  if  they  con- 
ducted themselves  well,  their  offered  services 
ifiight  probably  be  accepted  in  the  morning ;  in 
the  meanwhile,  he  suggested  that  they  might 
carry  up  the  canoes.  They  accordingly  set  off 
with  the  two  canoes  on  their  shoulders,  accom- 
panied by  a  guard  of  eight  men  well  armed. 

"When  arrived  at  the  head  of  the  falls,  the 
mischievous  spirit  of  the  savages  broke  out,  and 
they  were  on  the  point  of  destroying  the  canoes, 
doubtless  with  a  view  to  impede  the  white  men 
"rom  carrying  forward  their  goods,  ad  laying 
them  open  to  ftirther  pilfering.  They  wei*e  with 
9ome  difficulty  prevented  from  committing  this 


426 


ABTORIA. 


outrage  by  the  interference  of  an  oM  man,  who 
appeared  to  have  authority  among  tliem ;  and,  in 
consequence  of  his  harangue,  the  whole  of  the 
hostile  band,  with  the  exception  of  about  fifty, 
crossed  to  the  north  side  of  the  river,  where  they 
lay  in  wait,  ready  for  further  ruischief. 

In  the  meantime,  Mr.  Stuart,  who  had  re- 
mained at  the  foot  of  the  falls  with  the  goods, 
and  who  knew  that  the  proffered  assistance  of 
the  savages  was  only  for  the  purpose  of  having 
an  opportunity  to  plunder,  determined,  if  possi- 
ble, to  steal  a  march  upon  them,  and  defeat  their 
machinations.  In  the  dead  of  the  night,  there- 
fore, about  one  o'clock,  the  moon  shining  brightly, 
he  roused  his  party,  and  proposed  that  they  should 
endeavor  to  transport  the  goods  themselves,  above 
the  falls,  before  the  sleeping  savages  could  be 
aware  of  their  operations.  All  hands  sprang  to 
the  work  with  zeal,  and  hurried  it  on  in  the 
hope  of  getting  all  over  before  daylight.  Mr. 
Stuart  went  forward  with  the  first  loads,  and  took 
his  station  at  the  head  of  the  portage,  while  Mr. 
Reed  and  Mr.  M'Lellan  remained  at  the  foot  \a 
forward  the  remainder. 

The  day  dawned  before  the  transportation  was 
completed.  Some  of  the  fifty  Indians  who  had 
remained  on  the  south  side  of  the  river,  per- 
ceived what  was  going  on,  and,  feeling  them- 
selves too  weak  for  an  attack,  gave  the  alarm  to 
those  on  the  opposite  side,  upwards  of  a  hundred 
of  whom  embarked  in  several  large  canoes.  Two 
loads  of  goods  yet  remained  to  be  brought  up. 
Mr.  Stuart  dispatched  some  of  the  people  for  one 


HEED  AND  ATLELLAN  ATTACKED.      427 

of  the  loads,  with  a  request  to  Mr.  Keed  to  retaiu 
with  him  as  many  of  the  meu  as  he  thought  neces- 
sary to  guard  the  remaining  load,  as  he  suspected 
hostile  intentions  on  the  part  of  the  Indians. 
Mr.  Reed,  however,  refused  to  retain  any  of 
them,  saying  that  M'Lellan  and  himself  were  suf- 
ficient to  protect  the  small  qu.  *4ity  that  remained. 
The  men  accordingly  departed  with  the  load, 
while  Reed  and  M'Lellan  continued  to  mount 
guard  over  the  residue.  By  this  time,  a  number 
of  the  canoes  had  arrived  from  the  opposite  side. 
As  they  approached  the  shore,  the  unlucky  tin 
box  of  John  Reed,  shining  afar  like  the  brilliant 
helmet  of  Euryalus,  caught  their  eyes.  No 
sooner  did  the  canoes  touch  the  shore,  than  they 
leaped  forward  on  the  rocks,  set  up  a  warwhoop, 
and  sprang  forward  to  secure  the  glittering  prize. 
Mr.  M'Lellan,  who  was  at  the  river  bank,  ad- 
vanced to  guard  the  goods,  when  one  of  the 
savages  attempted  to  hoodwink  him  with  liis 
buffalo  robe  with  one  hand,  and  to  stab  him  with 
the  other.  M'Lellan  sprang  back  just  far  enough 
to  avoid  the  blow,  and  raising  Iiis  rifle,  shot  the 
rufiian  through  the  heart. 

In  the  meat  ime.  Reed,  who  with  the  want  of 
forethought  of  an  Irishman,  had  neglected  to 
remove  the  leathf  rn  cover  from  the  lock  of  his 
rifle,  was  fumbling  at  the  fastenings,  when  he  re- 
ceived a  blow  on  the  head  with  a  war  club  that 
jaid  him  senseless  on  the  ground.  In  a  twink- 
ling he  was  stripped  of  his  rifle  and  pistols,  and 
che  tin  box,  the  cause  of  all  this  onslaught,  was 
borne  off  in  triumph. 


428 


ASTORIA. 


r    H 


4 


At  this  critical  juncture,  Mr  Stuart,  wlio  had 
heard  the  war-whoop,  hastened  to  the  scene  of 
action  with  Ben  Jones,  and  seven  others  of  the 
men.  When  he  arrived,  Reed  was  weltering  in 
his  blood,  and  an  Indian  standing  over  him  and 
about  to  dispatch  him  with  a  tomahawk.  Stuart 
gave  the  word,  when  Ben  Jones  leveled  his  rifle, 
and  shot  the  miscreant  on  the  spot.  The  men 
then  gave  a  cheer,  and  charged  upon  the  main 
body  of  the  savages,  who  took  to  instant  flight. 
Reed  was  now  raised  from  the  ground,  and  borne 
senseless  and  bleeding  to  the  upper  end  of  the 
portage.  Preparations  were  made  to  launch  the 
canoes  and  embark  in  all  haste,  when  it  was 
found  that  they  were  too  leaky  to  be  put  in  the 
water,  and  that  the  oars  had  been  left  at  the  foot 
of  the  falls.  A  scene  of  confusion  now  ensued. 
The  Indians  were  whooping  and  yelling,  and  run- 
ning about  like  fiends.  A  panic  seized  upon  the 
men,  at  being  thus  suddenly  checked,  the  hearts 
of  some  of  the  Canadians  died  within  them,  and 
two  young  men  actually  fainted  away.  The  mo- 
ment they  recovered  their  senses,  Mr.  Stuart 
ordered  that  they  should  be  deprived  of  their 
arms,  their  under  garments  taken  off,  and  that  a 
piece  of  cloth  should  be  tied  round  their  waists, 
in  imitation  of  a  squaw ;  an  Indian  punishment 
for  cowardice.  Thus  equipped,  they  were  stowed 
away  among  the  goods  in  one  of  the  canoes. 
This  ludicrous  affair  excited  the  mirth  of  the 
bolder  spirits,  even  in  the  midst  of  their  perils, 
and  roused  the  pride  of  the  wavering.  The  In* 
iiuns  hav'.  g  crossed  back  again  to  the  north  side, 


AN  INDIAN  AMBUSH. 


429 


order  was  restored,  some  of  the  hands  were  sent 
back  for  the  oars,  others  set  to  work  to  calk  and 
launch  the  canoes,  and  in  a  little  while  all  were 
embarked  and  were  continuing  their  voyage  along 
tlie  southern  shore. 

No  sooner  had  they  departed,  than  the  Indians 
returned  to  the  scene  of  action,  bore  off  their 
two  comrades  who  had  been  shot,  one  of  whom 
was  still  living,  and  returned  to  their  village. 
Here  they  killed  two  horses ;  and  drank  the  hot 
blood  to  give  fierceness  to  their  courage.  They 
painted  and  arrayed  themselves  hideously  for  bat- 
tle ;  performed  the  dead  dance  round  the  slain, 
and  raised  the  war  song  of  vengeance.  Then 
mounting  their  horses,  to  the  number  of  four  hun- 
dred and  fifty  men,  and  brandishing  their  weap- 
ons, they  set  off  along  the  northern  bank  of  the 
river,  to  get  ahead  of  the  canoes,  lie  in  wait  for 
them,  and  take  a  terrible  revenge  on  the  white 
men. 

They  succeeded  in  getting  some  distance  above 
the  canoes  without  being  discovered,  and  were 
crossing  the  river  to  post  themselves  on  the  side 
along  which  the  white  men  were  coasting,  when 
they  were  fortunately  descried.     Mr.  Stuart  and 
his  companions  were  immediately  on   the  alert 
As  they  drew  near  to  the  place  where  the  sav 
ages   had   crossed,    they    observed   them   posted 
among  steep  and  overhanging  rocks,  close  along 
which,  the  canoes  would  have  to  pass.     Finding 
that  the  enemy  had  the  advantage  of  the  ground, 
the  whites  stopped  short  when  within  five  hun 
ired  yards  of  them,  and  discharged  and  reloaded 


m 


I!      •;! 


430 


ASTORIA, 


(heir  pieces.  They  then  made  a  fire,  and  dressed 
the  wounds  of  Mr.  Reed,  who  had  received  five 
severe  gashes  in  the  head.  This  being  done,  they 
lathed  the  canoes  together,  fastened  them  to  a 
rock  at  a  small  distance  from  the  shore,  and  there 
awaited  the  menaced  attack. 

They  had  not  been  long  posted  in  this  manner, 
when  they  saw  a  canoe  approaching.  It  contained 
the  war-chief  of  the  tribe,  and  three  of  his  prin- 
cipal warriors.  He  drew  near,  and  made  a  long 
harangue,  in  which  he  informed  them  that  they 
had  kiUed  one  and  wounded  another  of  his  na- 
tion ;  that  the  relations  of  the  slain  cried  out  for 
vengeance,  and  he  had  been  compelled  to  lead 
them  to  fight.  Still  he  wiched  to  spare  unneces- 
sary bloodshed  ;  he  proposed,  therefore,  that  Mr. 
Reed,  who,  he  observed,  was  little  better  than  a 
dead  man,  might  be  given  up  to  be  sacrificed  tx) 
the  manes  of  the  deceased  warrior.  This  would 
appease  the  fury  of  his  friends ;  the  hatchet 
would  then  be  buried,  and  all  thenceforward 
would  be  friends.  The  answer  was  a  stern  re- 
fusal and  a  defiance,  and  the  war-chief  saw  thai 
the  canoes  were  well  prepared  for  a  vigorous  de- 
fense. He  withdrew,  therefore,  and  returning  to 
his  warriors  among  the  rocks  held  long  delibera 
tions.  Blood  for  blood  is  a  principle  in  Indian 
equity  and  Indian  honor  ;  but  though  the  inhabi- 
tants of  Wish-ram  were  men  of  war,  they  were 
likewise  men  of  traffic,  and  it  was  suggested  that 
honor  for  once  might  give  way  to  profit.  A  ne- 
gotiation was  accordingly  opened  with  the  white 
men,  and  after  some  diplomacy,  the  mat^ei*  was 


(I 


l(T    to 

)era 

idiau 

Ihabi- 

Iwero 

that 

iie- 

was 


HEED'S  EXPEDITION  ABANDONED.      431 

cwmpromised  for  a  blanket  to  cover  the  dead,  and 
some  tobacco  to  be  smoked  by  the  living.  This 
being  granted,  the  heroes  of  Wish-ram  crossed 
the  river  once  more,  returned  to  their  villages  to 
teast  upon  the  horses  whose  blood  they  had  so 
vaingloriously  drunk,  and  the  travellers  pursued 
their  voyage  without  further  molestation. 

The  tin  case,  however,  containing  the  important 
dispatches  for  New  York,  was  irretrievably  lost; 
the  very  precaution  taken  by  the  worthy  Hibernian 
to  secure  his  missives,  had,  by  rendering  them 
conspicuous,  produced  their  robbery.  The  object 
of  his  overland  journey,  therefore,  being  defeated, 
he  gave  up  the  expedition.  The  whole  party  re- 
paired with  Mr.  Robert  Stuart  to  the  establish- 
ment of  Mr.  David  Stuart,  on  the  Oakinagan 
River.  After  remaining  here  two  or  three  days, 
they  all  set  out  on  their  return  to  Astoria,  ac- 
companied by  Mr.  David  Stuart.  This  gentleman 
had  a  large  quantity  of  beaver  skins  at  his  estab- 
lishment, but  did  rot  think  it  prudent  to  take  them 
with  him,  fearing  the  levy  of  "  black  mail "  at  the 
falls. 

On  their  way  down,  when  below  the  forks  of 
the  Columbia,  they  were  hailed  one  day  from  the 
shore  in  English.  Looking  around,  they  descried 
two  wretched  men,  entirely  naked.  They  pulled 
to  shore  ;  the  men  came  up  and  made  themselves 
known.  They  proved  to  be  Mr.  Crooks  and  hia 
faithful  follower,  John  Day. 

The  reader  will  recollect  that  Mr.  Crooks,  with 
Day  and  four  Canadians,  had  been  so  reduced  by 
famine  and  fatigue,  that  Mr.  Hunt  was  obliged  l3> 


432 


ASTORIA. 


leave  them,  in  the  month  of  December,  on  the 
banks  of  the  Snake  River.  Their  situation  was 
tlie  more  critical,  as  they  were  in  the  neighbor- 
hood of  a  band  of  Shoshonies,  whose  horses  had 
bfien  forcibly  seized  by  IMr.  Hunt's  party  for  pro- 
visions. Mr.  Crooks  remained  here  twenty  days, 
detained  by  the  extremely  reduced  state  of  John 
Day,  who  was  utterly  unable  to  travel,  and  whom 
he  would  not  abandon,  as  Day  had  been  in  his 
employ  on  the  Missouri,  and  had  always  proved 
himself  most  faithful.  Fortunately  the  Shoshonies 
did  not  otFer  to  molest  them.  They  had  never 
before  seen  white  men,  and  seemed  to  entertain 
some  superstitions  with  regard  to  them,  for  though 
they  would  encamp  near  them  in  the  daytime, 
they  would  move  off  with  their  tents  in  the  night ; 
and  finally  disappeared,  without  taking  leave. 

When  Day  was  sufficiently  ?  scovered  to  travel, 
they  kept  feebly  on,  sustaining  >lKv;iiise.lves  as  well 
as  they  could,  until  in  die  moMth  Ci.  February 
when  three  of  the  Canadians,  fearful  of  perishing 
with  want,  left  Mr.  Crooks  on  a  small  river,  on 
the  road  by  which  Mr.  Hunt  had  passed  in  quest 
of  Indians.  Mr.  Crooks  followed  Mr.  Hunt's 
track  in  the  snow  for  several  days,  sleeping  as 
usual  in  the  open  oir,  and  suffering  all  kinds  of 
hardsliips.  At  length,  coming  to  a  low  prairie,  he 
.lost  every  appearance  of  the  "  trail,"  and  wan- 
.<iered  during  the  remainder  of  the  winter  in  the 
n'ou!jtains,  subsisting  sometimes  on  horse  meat, 
j.^jmethaes  or?  boaveio  and  their  skins,  and  a  part 
A  ihv.  time  on  roots. 

Ahout  the  last  of  Marcli,  the  other  Canadian 


on 
uest 
unt's 
2  as 
s  of 
e,  he 
wau- 
a  the 
[neat, 

part 


SUFFERINGS   OF  MR.    CROOKS. 


483 


gave  out  and  was  left  with  a  lodge  of  Shoshonies ; 
but  Mr.  Crooks  and  John  Day  still  kept  on,  and 
finding  the  snow  sufficiently  diminished,  undertook, 
from  Indian  information,  to  cross  the  last  moun- 
tain ridge.  They  happily  succeeded,  and  after- 
wards fell  in  with  the  Wallah- Wallalis,  a  tribe  of 
Indians  inhabiting  the  banks  of  a  river  of  the 
same  name,  and  reputed  as  being  frank,  hospitable, 
and  sincere.  They  proved  worthy  of  the  char- 
acter, for  they  received  the  poor  wanderers  kindly, 
killed  a  horse  for  them  to  eat,  and  directed  them 
on  their  way  to  the  Columbia.  They  struck  the 
river  about  the  middle  of  April,  and  advanced 
down  it  one  hundred  miles,  until  they  came  within 
about  twenty  miles  of  the  falls. 

Here  they  met  with  some  of  the  "  chivalry"  of 
that  noted  pass,  who  received  them  in  a  friendly 
way,  and  set  food  before  them ;  but,  while  they 
were  satisfying  their  hunger,  perfidiously  seized 
their  rifles.  They  then  stripped  them  naked,  and 
drove  them  off,  reftising  the  entreaties  of  Mr. 
Crooks  for  a  flint  and  steel  of  which  they  had 
robbed  him ;  and  threatening  his  life  if  he  did  not 
instantly  depart. 

In  this  forlorn  plight,  still  worse  off  than  be- 
fore, they  renewed  their  wanderings.  They  now 
sought  to  find  their  way  back  to  the  hospitable 
Wallah-Wallahs,  and  had  advanced  eighty  miles 
along  the  river,  when  fortunately,  on  the  very 
morning  that  they  were  going  to  leave  the  Co- 
himbia  and  strike  inland,  the  canoes  of  Mr.  Stuart 
hove  in  sight. 

It  is  needless  to  describe  the  joy  of  these  poor 


434 


ASTORIA. 


men  at  once  more  finding  themselves  among 
countrymen  and  friends,  or  of  the  honest  and 
hearty  welcome  with  which  they  v  ere  received  by 
their  fellow  adventurers.  The  whole  party  now 
continued  down  the  river,  passed  all  the  danger- 
ous places  without  interruption,  and  arrived  safely 
at  Astoria  on  the  11th  of  May. 


l<      "mi- 


'/■"fe 


CHAPTER  XLn. 

AVING  traced  the  fortunes  of  the  two 
expeditions  by  sea  and  land  to  the  mouth 
of  the  Columbia,  and  presented  a  view 
of  affairs  at  Astoria,  we  will  return  for  a  moment 
to  the  master  spirit  of  the  enterprise,  who  reg- 
ulated the  springs  of  Astoria,  at  his  residence 
in  New  York. 

It  will  be  remembe^:ed,  that  a  part  of  the  plan 
of  Mr.  Astor  was  to  furnish  the  Russian  fur 
establishment  on  the  northwest  coast  with  regular 
supplies,  so  as  to  render  it  independent  of  those 
casual  vessels  which  cut  up  the  trade  and  supplied 
the  natives  with  arms.  This  plan  had  been 
countenanced  by  our  own  government,  and  like- 
wise by  Count  Pahlen,  the  Russian  minister  at 
Washington.  As  its  views,  however,  were  im- 
portant and  extensive,  and  might  eventually  affect 
a  wide  course  of  commerce,  Mr.  Astor  was 
desirous  of  establishing  a  complete  arrangement 
on  the  subject  with  the  Russian  American  Fur 
Company,  under  the  sanction  of  the  Russian 
government.  For  this  purpose,  in  March,  1811, 
he  dispatched  a  confidentifil  agent  to  St.  Peters- 
burgh,  fully  empowered  to  enter  into  the  requisite 
negotiat'ons.  A  passage  was  given  to  this  gentle- 
man by  the  government  of  the  United  States,  in 


436 


ASTORIA. 


the  John  Adams,  one  of  its  armed  vessels,  bound 
to  a  European  port. 

The  next  step  of  Mr.  Astor  was,  to  dispatch 
the  annual  ship  contemplated  on  his  general  plan. 
He  had  as  yet  heard  nothing  of  the  success  of 
he  previous  expeditions,  and  had  to  proceed  upon 
the  presumption  that  everything  had  been  effected 
ftccording  to  his  instructions.  He  accordingly  fitted 
out  a  fine  ship  of  four  hundred  and  ninety  tons, 
called  the  Beaver,  and  freighted  her  with  a  valu- 
able cargo  destined  for  the  factory  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Columbia,  the  trade  along  the  coast,  and 
the  supply  of  the  Russian  establishment.  In  this 
ship  embarked  a  reinforcement,  consisting  of  a 
partner,  five  clerks,  fifteen  .American  laborers,  and 
six  Canadian  voyageurs".  In  choosing  his  agents 
for  his  first  expedition,  Mr.  Astor  had  »een  obliged 
to  have  recourse  to  British  subjects  experienced 
in  the  Canadian  fur  trade ;  henceforth  it  was  his 
intention,  as  much  as  possible,  to  select  Aiiaericans, 
80  as  to  secure  an  ascendency  of  American  in- 
fluence in  the  management  of  the  company,  and 
to  make  it  decidely  national. 

Accordingly,  Mr.  John  Clarke,  the  partner 
who  took  the  lead  in  the  present  expedition,  was 
a  native  of  the  United  States,  though  he  had 
passed  much  of  his  life  in  the  northwest,  having 
been  employed  in  the  trade  since  the  age  of  six- 
teen. Most  of  the  clerks  were  young  gentlemen 
of  good  connections  in  the  American  cities,  some 
of  whom  embarked  in  the  hope  of  gain,  others 
through  the  mere  spirit  of  adventure  incident  to 
youth. 


PROPOSED   TRIP   OF  THE  BEAVEh,.       437 


rtner 
was 
had 

aving 
six- 

emeii 
some 
tliera 

Hit  to 


The  instructions  given  by  Mr.  Astor  to  Captain 
Sowle,  the  commander  of  the  Beaver,  were,  in 
some  respects,  hypothetical,  in  consequence  of  the 
uncertainty  resting  upon  the  previous  steps  of  the 
enterprise. 

He  was  to  touch  at  the  Sandwich  Islands,  in- 
quire about  the  fortunes  of  the  Tonquin,  and 
whether  an  estabhshment  had  been  formed  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Columbia.  If  so,  he  was  to  take 
as  many  Sandwich  Islanders  as  his  ship  would 
accommodate,  and  proceed  thither.  On  arriving 
at  the  river,  he  was  to  observe  great  caution,  for 
even  if  an  establishment  should  have  been  formed, 
it  might  have  fallen  into  hostile  hands.  He  was, 
therefore,  to  put  in  as  if  by  casualty  or  distress, 
to  give  himself  out  as  a  coasting  trader,  and  to 
say  nothing  about  his  ship  being  owned  by  Mr. 
Astor,  until  he  had  ascertained  that  every thir.g 
was  right.  In  that  case,  he  was  to  land  such  part 
of  his  cargo  as  was  intended  for  the  establishment^ 
and  to  proceed  to  New  Archangel  with  tlie  sup- 
plies intended  for  the  Russian  post  at  that  place, 
where  he  could  receive  peltries  in  payment.  With 
these  he  was  to  return  to  Astoria ;  take  in  the 
furs  collected  there,  and,  having  completed  his 
cargo  by  trading  along  the  coast,  was  to  proceed 
to  Canton.  The  captain  received  the  same  in- 
junctions that  had  been  given  to  Captain  Thorn 
of  the  Tonquin,  of  great  caution  and  circumspec- 
tion in  his  intercourse  with  the  natives,  and  that 
he  should  not  permit  more  than  one  or  two  to  be 
on  board  at  a  time. 

The  Beaver  sailed  from  New  York  on  the  10th 


438 


ASTORIA. 


ills 


4 


of  Octc.ber,  1811,  and  reached  the  Sandwich 
Islands  without  any  occurrence  of  moment.  Here 
a  rumor  was  heard  of  the  disastrous  fate  of  the 
Tonquin.  Deep  solicitude  was  felt  by  every 
one  on  board  for  the  fate  of  both  expeditions, 
by  sea  and  land.  Doubu  were  entertained 
whether  any  establishment  had  been  formed  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Columbia,  or  whether  any 
of  the  company  would  be  found  there.  After 
much  deliberation,  the  captain  took  twelve 
Sandwich  Islanders  on  board,  for  the  service  of 
the  factory,  should  there  be  one  in  existence, 
and  proceeded  on  his  voyage. 

On  the  6th  of  May,  he  arrived  off  the  mouth 
of  the  Columbia,  and  running  as  near  as  possible, 
fired  two  signal-guns.  No  answer  was  returned, 
nor  was  there  any  signal  to  be  descried.  Night 
coming  on,  the  ship  stood  out  to  sea,  and  every 
heart  drooped  as  the  land  faded  away.  On  the  fol- 
lowing morning  they  again  ran  in  within  four  miles 
of  the  shore,  and  fired  other  signal  guns,  but  still 
without  reply.  A  boat  was  then  dispatched,  to 
sound  the  channel,  and  attempt  an  entrance  ;  but 
returned  without  success,  there  being  a  tremen- 
dous swell,  and  breakers.  Signal  guns  were  fired 
again  in  the  evening,  but  equally  in  vain,  and  once 
more  the  ship  stood  off  to  sea  tor  the  night.  The 
captain  now  gave  up  all  hope  of  finding  any 
establishment  at  the  place,  and  indulged  in  the 
most  gloomy  apprehensions.  He  feared  his  pre- 
decessors had  been  massacred  before  they  had 
reached  their  place  of  destination ;  or  if  they 
should  hftve  erected  a  factory,  that  it  had  been 
surpiiged  and  destroyed  by  the  natives. 


AT  THE  MOUTn   OF  THE  COLUMBIA.    439 


every 
le  fol- 
miles 
t  still 
d,  to 
but 
men- 
fired 
once 
The 
any 
the 
pre- 
had 
they 
been 


In  this  moment  of  doubt  and  uncertainty. 
Mr.  Clarke  announced  his  determination,  in  cas« 
of  the  worst,  to  found  an  establishment  with 
the  present  party,  and  all  hands  bravely  engaged 
to  stand  by  him  in  the  undertaking.  The  next 
morning  the  ship  stood  in  for  the  third  time,  and 
fired  three  signal  guns,  but  with  little  hope  of 
reply.  To  the  great  joy  of  the  crew,  three 
distinct  guns  were  heard  in  answer.  The  appre- 
hensions of  all  but  Captain  Sowle  were  now  at 
rest.  That  cautious  commander  recollected  the 
instructions  given  him  by  Mr.  Astor,  and  deter- 
mined to  proceed  with  great  circumspection.  He 
was  well  aware  of  Indian  treachery  and  cunning. 
It  was  not  impossible,  he  observed,  that  these 
cannon  might  have  been  fired  by  the  savages 
themselves.  They  might  have  surprised  the  fort, 
massacred  its  inmates ;  and  these  signal  guns 
might  only  be  decoys  to  lure  him  across  the  bar, 
that  they  might  have  a  chance  of  cutting  him 
ofi^,  and  seizing  his  vessel. 

At  length  a  white  flag  was  descried  hoisted  as 
a  signal  on  Cape  Disappointment.  The  passen- 
gers pointed  to  it  in  triumph,  but  the  captain  did 
not  yet  dismiss  his  doubts.  A  beacon  fire  blazed 
through  the  night  on  the  same  place,  but  the 
captain  observed  that  all  these  signals  might  be 
treacherous. 

On  the  following  morning.  May  9th,  the  vessel 
.came  to  anchor  off  Cape  Disappointment,  outfeide 
»f  the  bar.  Towards  noon  an  Indian  canoe  was 
Been  making  for  the  ship  and  all  hands  were 
ordered   to    be  on   the  alert.     A  few  momenta 


ii  ! 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


// 


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1.0 


I.I 


1.25 


Hi  12.2 


lit 

us 

IS 


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2.0 


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1.4  mil  1.6 


6" 


Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


.# 


.<^  M 


^^ 


%, 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  t4S80 

(716)  872-4303 


\%^ 

^^4^ 


v^o 


'U 


V- 


HO 


ASTORIA. 


afterwards,  a  barge  was  perceived  following  the 
canoe.  The  hopes  and  fears  of  those  on  board 
of  the  ship  were  in  tumultuous  agitation,  as  thie 
boat  drew  nigh  that  Was  to  let  them  know  thci 
fortunes  of  the  enterprise,  and  the  fate  of  their 
predecessors.  The  captain,  who  was  haunted 
with  the  idesl  of  possible  treachery,  did  not  suffer 
his  curiosity  to  get  the  better  of  his  caution,  but 
ordered  a  party  of  his  men  under  arins^  to  receiye 
the  visitors.  The  canoe  came  first  aloJQgside,  in 
which  were  Comoomly  and  six  Indians;  in  the 
barge  were  M'Dougal,  M'Lellan,  and  eight  Cana- 
dians. A  little  conversation  with  these  gentletnen 
dispelled  all  the  captain's  fears,  and  the  Beaver 
crossing  the  bar  under  their  pilotage,  anchored 
■afely  in  Baker's  Bay. 


CHAPTER  XLIIT. 


The  arrival  of  the  Beaver  with  a  reinforce^ 
ment  and  supplies,  gave  new  life  and  vigor  to 
affairs  at  Astoria.  These  were  means  for  ex- 
tending the  operations  of  the  estabh'shment,  and 
founding  interior  trading  posts.  Two  parties  were 
immediatelj  set  on  foot  to  proceed  severally  under 
the  command  of  Messrs.  M'Kenzie  and  Clarke,  and 
establish  posts  above  the  forks  of  the  Columbia, 
at  points  where  most  rivalry  and  opposition  were 
apprehended  from  the  Northwest  Company. 

A  third  party,  headed  by  Mr.  David  Stuart; 
was  to  repair  with  supplies  to  the  post  of  that 
gentleman  on  the  Oakinagan.  In  addition  to 
these  expeditions,  a  fourth  was  necessary  to  con- 
vey dispatches  to  Mr.  Astor,  at  New  York,  in 
place  of  those  unfortunately  lost  by  John  Reed. 
The  safe  conveyance  of  these  dispatches  was 
highly  important,  as  by  them  Mr.  A,stor  would 
receive  an  account  of  the  state  of  the  factory,  and 
regulate  his  reinforcements  and  supplies  accord- 
ingly. The  mission  was  one  of  peril  and  hardship 
and  required  a  man  of  nerve  and  vigor.  It  was 
confided  to  Robert  Stuart,  who,  though  he  had 
never  been  across  the  mountains,  and  a  very  young 
man,  had  given  proofs  of  his  competency  to  the 


442 


ASTORIA. 


task.  Four  trusty  and  well-tried  men,  who  had 
come  overland  in  Mr.  Hunt's  expedition,  were 
given  as  his  guides  and  hunters.  Theso  were 
Ben  Jones  and  John  Day,  the  Kentuckians,  and 
Andri  Vallar  and  Francis  Le  Clerc,  Canadians. 
Mr.  M'Lellan  again  expressed  his  determination 
to  take  this  opportunity  of  returning  to  the  At- 
lantic States.  In  this  he  was  joined  by  Mr. 
Crooks,  who,  notwithstanding  all  that  he  had 
suffered  in  the  dismal  journey  of  the  preceding 
winter,  was  ready  to  retrace  his  steps  and  brave 
every  danger  and  hardship,  rather  than  remain  at 
Astoria.  This  liUle  handful  of  adventurous  men 
we  propose  to  accompany  in  its  long  and  perilous 
peregrinations. 

The  several  parties  we  have  mentioned  all  set 
off  in  company  on  the  29th  of  June,  under  a  sa- 
lute of  cannon  from  the  fort.  They  were  to  keep 
together  for  mutual  protection  through  the  pirat- 
ical passes  of  the  river,  and  to  separate,  on  their 
different  destinations,  at  the  forks  of  the  Co- 
lumbia. Their  number,  collectively,  was  nearly 
sixty,  consisting  of  partners  and  clerks,  Canadian 
voyagenrs,  Sandwicli  Islanders,  and  American 
hunters ;  and  they  embarked  in  two  barges  and 
ten  canoes. 

They  had  scarcely  got  under  way,  when  John 
Day,  the  Kentucky  hunter,  became  restless  and 
uneasy,  and  extremely  wayward  in  his  deport- 
ment. This  caused  surprise,  for  in  general  he 
was  remarkable  for  his  cheerful,  manly  deport- 
ment. It  was  supposed  that  the  recollection  of 
past  sufferings  might  harass  his  mind  in  under- 


JOHN  DATS  INSANITY. 


443 


I  John 
and 
kport- 
il  he 
kport- 
)n  of 
hder- 


taking  to  retrace  the  scenes  where  they  had  been 
experienced.  As  the  expedition  advanced,  how- 
ever, his  agitation  increased.  He  began  to  talk 
wildly  and  incoherently,  and  to  show  manifest 
symptoms  of  derangement. 

Mr.  Crooks  now  informed  his  companions  that 
in  his  desolate  wanderings  through  the  Snako 
River  country  during  the  preceding  winter,  in 
which  he  had  been  accompanied  by  John  Day, 
the  poor  fellow's  wits  had  been  partially  un- 
settled by  the  sufferings  and  horrors  through 
which  tlicy  had  passed,  and  he  doubted  whether 
they  had  ever  been  restored  to  perfect  sanity. 
It  was  still  hoped  that  this  agitation  of  spirit 
might  pass  away  as  they  proceeded  ;  but,  on  the 
contrary,  it  grew  more  and  more  violent.  His 
comrades  endeavored  to  divert  his  mind  and  to 
draw  him  into  rational  conversation,  but  he  only 
became  the  more  exasperated,  uttering  wild  and 
incoherent  ravings.  The  sight  of  any  of  the  na- 
tives put  him  in  an  absolute  fury,  and  he  would 
heap  on  them  the  most  opprobrious  epithets  ; 
recollecting,  no  doubt,  what  he  had  suffered  from 
Indian  robbers. 

On  the  evening  of  the  2d  of  July  he  became 
absolutely  frantic,  and  attempted  to  destroy  him- 
self. Being  disarmed,  he  sank  into  quietude,  and 
professed  the  greatest  remorse  for  the  crime  he 
had  meditated.  He  then  pretended  to  sleep,  and 
having  thus  lulled  suspicion,  suddenly  sprang  up, 
just  before  daylight,  seized  a  pair  of  loaded  pis- 
tols, and  endeavored  to  blow  out  his  brains.  In 
bis  hurry  he  fired  too  high,  and  the  balls  passed 


444 


ASTORIA. 


over  his  head.  He  was  instantly  secured  and 
placed  under  a  guard  in  one  of  the  boats.  How 
to  dispose  of  him  was  now  the  question,  as  it  was 
impossible  to  keep  him  with  the  expedition; 
Fortunately  Mr.  Stuart  met  with  some  Indians 
accustomed  to  trade  with  Astoria.  These  under- 
took to  conduct  John  Day  back  to  the  factory^ 
and  deliver  him  there  in  safety.  Ic  was  with  the 
utmost  concern  that  his  comrades  saw  the  poor 
fellow  depart ;  for,  independent  of  his  invaluable 
services  as  a  first-rate  hunter,  his  frank  and  loyal 
qualities  had  made  him  a  universal  favorite.  It 
may  be  as  well  to  add  that  the  Indians  executed 
their  task  faithfully,  and  landed  John  Day  among 
his  friends  at  Astoria  ;  but  his  constitution  was 
completely  broken  by  the  hardship^  he  had 
undergone,  and  he  died  within  a  year; 

On  the  evening  of  the  6th  of  July  the  party 
arrived  at  the  piratical  pass  of  the  river,  and 
encamped  at  the  foot  of  the  first  rapid.  The 
next  day,  before  the  commencement  of  the  por- 
tage, the  greatest  precautions  were  taken  to 
guard  against  lurking  treachery,  or  open  attack. 
The  weapons  of  every  man  were  put  in  order, 
and  his  cartridge-bo±  replenished.  Each  one 
wore  a  kind  of  a  surcoat  made  of  the  skiii  of  tlie 
elk,  reaching  from  his  neck  to  his  knees,  and 
answering  the  purpose  of  a  shirt  of  mail,  for  it 
was  arrow  proof,  and  could  even  resist  a  musket 
ball  at  the  distance  of  ninety  yards.  Thus  armed 
and  equipped,  they  posted  their  forces  in  military 
Btyle.  Five  of  the  officers  took  their  stations  at 
each  end  of  the  portage,  which  was  between  three 


WRECKERS  FOILED, 


445 


party 
and 
The 
por- 
1    to 
tack. 
)rder, 
ono 
f  the 
and 
'or  it 
usket 
rmed 
itary 
19   at 
three 


and  four  miUa  in  length ;  a  number  of  men 
mounted  guard  at  short  distances  along  the 
heights  immediately  overlooking  the  river,  while 
the  residue,  thus  protected  from  surprise,  em- 
ployed themselves  below  in  dragging  up  the 
barges  and  canoes,  and  carrying  up  the  gooda 
along  the  narrow  margin  of  the  rapids.  With 
these  precautions  they  all  passed  unmolested.  The 
only  accident  that  happened  was  the  upsetting  of 
one  of  the  canoes,  by  which  some  of  the  goods 
sunk,  and  others  floated  down  the  stream.  The 
alertness  and  rapacity  of  the  hordes  which  infest 
these  rapids,  were  immediately  apparent.  They 
pounced  upon  the  floating  merchandise  with  the 
keenness  of  regular  wreckers.  A  bale  of  goods 
which  landed  upon  one  of  the  islands  was  imme- 
diately ripped  open,  one  half  of  its  contents 
divided  among  the  captors,  and  the  other  half 
secreted  in  a  lonely  hut  in  a  deep  ravine.  Mr. 
Robert  Stuart,  however,  set  out  in  a  canoe  with 
five  men  and  an  interpreter,  ferreted  out  the 
wreckers  in  their  retreat,  and  succeeded  in 
wresting  from  them  their  booty. 

Similar  precautions  to  those  already  mentioned, 
and  to  a  still  greater  extent,  were  observed  in 
passing  the  Long  Narrows,  and  the  falls,  where 
they  would  be  exposed  to  the  depredations  of  the 
chivalry  of  Wish-ram,  and  its  freebooting  neigh- 
borhood. In  fact,  they  had  scarcely  set  their 
first  w^atch  one  night,  when  an  alarm  of  "  In- 
dians !  "  was  given.  "  To  arms  "  was  the  cry 
and  every  man  was  at  his  post  in  an  instant. 
Tire  alarm  was  explained ;  a  war  party  of  Sho- 


446 


ASTORIA. 


Bhoiiies  had  surprised  a  canoe  of  the  natives  jusi 
below  the  encampment,  had  murdered  four  men 
and  two  women,  and  it  was  apprehended  they 
would  attack  the  camp.  The  boats  and  canoes 
were  immediately  hauled  up,  a  breastwork  was 
made  of  them  and  the  packages,  forming  three  sides 
of  a  square,  with  the  river  in  the  rear,  and  thus 
the  party  remained  fortified  thn>ughout  the  night. 

The  dawn,  however,  dispelle  I  the  alarm  ;  the 
portage  was  conducted  in  peace ;  the  vagabond 
warriors  of  the  vicinity  hovered  about  them 
while  at  work,  but  were  kept  at  a  wary  distance. 
They  regarded  the  loads  of  merchandise  with 
wistful  eyes,  but  seeing  the  "long-beards"  so 
formidable  in  number,  and  so  well  prepared  for 
action,  they  made  no  attempt  either  by  open 
force  or  sly  pilfering  to  collect  their  usual  toll, 
but  maintained  a  peaceful  demeanor,  and  were 
afterwards  rewarded  for  their  good  conduct  with 
presents  of  tobacco. 

Fifteen  days  were  consumed  in  ascending 
from  the  foot  of  the  first  rapid  to  the  head  of 
the  falls,  a  distance  of  about  eighty  miles,  but 
full  of  all  kinds  of  obstructions.  Having  hap- 
pily accomplished  these  difficult  portages,  the 
party,  on  the  19th  of  July,  arrived  at  a  smoother 
*  part  of  the  river,  and  pursued  their  way  up  the 
stream  with  greater  speed  and  facility. 

They  were  now  in  the  neigh'jorhood  where 
Mr.  Crooks  and  John  Day  had  been  so  per- 
fidiously robbed  and  stripped  a  few  months  pre- 
viously, when  confiding  in  the  proffered  hospi- 
tality of  a  ruffian  band.     Qn   landing  at  night, 


jU9l 

men 

thev 

■  « 

moes 

wa8 
sides 

thus 
light. 
;  the 
ibond 
them 
tftnce. 

with 

8**    80 

ed  for 
open 

a  toll, 
were 
with 

jnding 

lad  of 

,  but 

hap- 

,    the 

mother 

IP  the 

rhere 

per- 

pre- 

hospi- 

luight, 


"TtlM 


STOLEN  PROPERTY  RECOVERED.       447 

therefore,  a  vigilant  guard  was  maintained  about 
the  camp.  On  the  following  morning  a  number 
of  Indians  made  their  appearance,  and  came 
prowling  round  the  party  while  at  breakfast. 
To  his  great  delight,  Mr.  Crooks  recognized 
among  them  two  of  the  miscreants  by  whom  he 
had  been  robbed.  Thiey  were  instantly  seized, 
bound  hand  and  foot,  and  thrown  into  one  of 
the  canoes.  Here  they  lay  in  doleful  fright, 
expecting  summary  execution.  Mr.  Crooks,  how- 
ever, was  not  of  a  revengeful  disposition,  and 
agreed  to  release  the  culprits  as  soon  as  the 
pillaged  property  should  be  restored.  Several 
savages  immediately  started  off  in    different  di- 


rections, and  before 


night  the 


rifles  of  Crooks 


and  Day  were  produced ;  several  of  the  smaller 
articles  pilfered  from  them,  however,  could  not 
be  recovered. 

The  bands  of  the  culprits  were  then  removed, 
and  they  lost  no  time  in  taking  their  departure, 
still  under  the  influence  of  abject  terror,  and 
scarcely  crediting  their  senses  that  they  had  es- 
caped the  merited  punishment  of  their  offenses. 

The  country  on  each  side  of  the  river  now 
began  to  assume  a  different  character.  The  hills, 
and  cliffs,  and  forests  disappeared;  vast  sandy 
plains,  scantily  clothed  here  and  there  with  short 
tufts  of  grass,  parched  by  the  summer  sun, 
stretched  far  away  to  the  north  and  south.  The 
river  was  occasionally  obstructed  with  rocks  and 
rapids,  but  often  there  were  smooth,  placid  in- 
tervals, where  the  current  was  gentle,  and  the 
boatmen  were  enabled  to  lighten  their  labors  with 
the  assistance  of  the  sail. 


1^ 


448 


ASTORIA. 


The  natives  in  this  part  of  the  river  resided 
entirely  on  the  northern  side.  They  were  hun- 
ters, as  well  as  fishermen,  and  had  horses  in 
plenty.  Some  of  these  were  purchased  by  the 
party,  83  provisions,  and  killed  on  the  spot, 
though  they  occasionally  found  a  difficulty  in 
procuring  fuel  wherewith  to  cook  them.  One 
of  the  greatest  dangers  that  beset  the  travellers 
in  this  part  of  their  expedition,  was  the  vast 
number  of  rattlesnakes  which  infested  the  rocks 
about  the  rapids  and  portages,  and  on  which  the 
men  were  in  danger  of  treading.  They  were 
often  found,  too,  in  quantities  about  the  encamp- 
ments, lu  one  place,  a  nest  of  them  lay  coiled 
together,  basking  in  the  sun.  Several  guns 
loaded  with  shot  were  discharged  at  them,  and 
thirty-seven  killed  and  wounded.  To  prevent 
any  unwelcome  visits  from  them  in  the  night, 
tobacco  was  occasionally  strewed  around  the 
tents,  a  weed  for  which  they  have  a  very  proper 
abhorrence. 

On  the  28  th  of  July  the  travellers  arrived  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Wallah- Wallah,  a  bright,  clear 
stream,  about  six  feet  deep,  and  fifty-five  yards 
wide,  which  flows  rapidly  over  a  bed  of  sand 
and  gravel,  and  throws  itself  into  the  Columbia, 
a  few  miles  below  Lewis  River.  Here  the  com- 
bined parties  that  had  thus  far  voyaged  together, 
were  to  separate,  each  for  its  particular  destina- 
tion. 

On  the  banks  of  the  Wallah- Wallah,  lived 
the  hospitable  tribe  of  the  same  name  who  had 
Euccored  JSIr.  Crooks  and  John  Day  in  the  time 


ided 
liun- 
18  iu 

the 
spot, 
\^f  in 

One 
ellers 

vast 
rocks 
jh  the 

were 
camp- 
coiled 
guns 
n,  and 
►revent 

night, 
the 

proper 


lived 

10  had 

le  time 


EQUESTRIAN  EQUIPMENTS. 


449 


of  their  extremity.  No  sooner  did  they  hear  of 
the  arrival  of  the  party,  than  they  hastened  to 
greet  them.  They  built  a  great  bonfire  on  the 
bank  of  the  river,  before  the  camp,  and  men  and 
women  danced  round  it  to  the  cadence  of  their 
(Bongs,  in  which  they  sang  the  praises  of  the 
white  men,  and  welcomed  them  to  their  country. 

On  the  following  day  a  tratHc  was  commenced, 
to  procure  horses  for  such  of  the  party  as  in- 
tended to  proceed  by  land.  The  Wallah-Wallahs 
are  an  equestrian  tribe.  The  equipments  of 
their  horses  were  rude  and  inconvenient.  High 
saddles,  roughly  made  of  deer-skin,  stuffed  with 
hair,  which  chafe  the  horse's  back  and  leave  it 
raw;  wooden  stirrups,  with  a  thong  of  raw  hide 
wrapped  round  them ;  and  for  bridles  they  have 
cords  of  twisted  horse-hair,  which  they  tie  round 
the  under  jaw.  They  are,  like  most  Indians, 
bold  but  hard  riders,  and  when  on  horseback 
gallop  about  the  most  dangerous  places,  without 
fear  for  themselves,  or  pity  for  their  steeds. 

From  these  people  Mr.  Stuart  purchased 
twenty  horses  for  his  party ;  some  for  the  sad- 
dle, and  others  to  transport  the  baggage.  He 
was  fortunate  in  procuring  a  noble  animal  for 
his  own  use,  which  was  praised  by  the  Indians 
for  its  great  speed  and  bottom,  and  a  high  price 
set  upon  it.  No  people  understand  better  the 
value  of  a  horse,  than  these  equestrian  tribes ; 
and  nowhere  is  speed  a  greater  requisite,  as  they 
frequently  engage  in  the  chase  of  the  antelope, 
one  of  the  fleetest  of  animals.     Even  after  the 

Indian  who  sold  this  boasted  horse  to  Mr.  Stuart 

29 


450 


ASTORIA, 


had  concluded  his  bargain,  he  lingered  about  the 
animal,  seeming  loth  to  part  from  him,  and  to  be 
sorry  for  what  he  had  done. 

A  day  or  two  were  employed  by  Mr»  Stuart 
in  arranging  packages  and  pack-saddles,  and 
making  other  preparations  for  his  long  and  ar- 
duous journey.  His  party,  by  the  loss  of  John 
Day  was  now  reduced  to  six,  a  small  number 
for  such  an  expedition.  They  were  young  men, 
however,  full  of  courage,  health,  and  good  spir- 
its^ and  stimulated  rather  than  appalled  by  dan- 
ger. 

On  the  morning  of  the  Slst  of  July,  all  prep- 
arations being  concluded,  Mr.  Stuart  and  hia 
little  band  mounted  their  steeds  and  took  a 
farewell  of  their  fellow-travellers,  who  gave 
them  three  hearty  cheers  as  they  set  out  on 
their  dangerous  journey.  The  course  they  took 
was  to  the  southeast,  towards  the  fated  region 
of  the  Snake  River.  At  an  immense  distance 
rose  a  chain  of  craggy  mountains,  which  they 
would  have  to  traverse ;  they  were  the  same 
among  which  the  travellers  had  experienced  such 
sufferings  from  cold  during  the  preceding  winter, 
and  from  their  azure  tints,  when  seen  at  a  dis- 
tance, badTeoeived  the  name  of  the  Blue  Mouii 
tains. 


CHAPTER  XLIV. 

fij'd  easy  tr^yeZTlT  ^'"^"«  '^"^  to 

r\  •««  ita  peculiar  haS' ''°''fr7'  '""''  ''"^ 
•""d  not  proceeded  far  befZ  .V  /  "-avellers 
-elves  among  naked  aLdS  t^f  "''  ""'"- 
•imposed  of  sand  and  cla?  k  j"j'  '''^  »  »<"! 
that  to  all  appean,„ee  ha^  ^^v^^  ""^  ."""'«- 
the  dews  of  hsaven  "*®''  ^"^'led  by 

•"d  cut  up  by  d,;  Se~ji7'«  '^'>'°«'' 

-thout  hS  ~;S^  't^y  continued  onward 
".parched  deSrt  h^Xl  ""T  *"''  "'«'«»». 
-ind  enough  to  r^te  £  ^^^  T*  j'-' 
knolis,  and  enyeJon  rtT^  ^  ^^  fr""  the 
The  sufferings  fZ  fl,t?  k'"  '"^'""«  c'""*"^- 
fi"e   young   dog  Te.V   1       ''**^^   ■■"«"««;    a 

*pirea.     Evemag  drew  on. 


452 


ASTORIA, 


mthout  any  prospect  of  relief,  and  they  were 
almost  reduced  to  despair,  when  they  descried 
something  that  looked  like  a  fringe  of  forest, 
along  the  horizon.  All  were  inspired  with  new 
hope,  for  they  knew  that  on  these  arid  wastes, 
in  the  neighborhood  of  trees,  there  is  always 
water. 

They  now  quickened  their  pace ;  the  horses 
seemed  to  understand  their  motives,  and  to  par- 
take of  their  anticipations ;  for,  though  before 
almost  ready  to  give  out,  they  now  required 
neither  whip  nor  spur.  With  all  their  exertions, 
it  was  late  in  the  night  before  they  drew  near 
to  the  trees.  As  they  approached,  they  heard, 
with  transport,  the  ripplinoj  of  a  shallow  stream. 
No  sooner  did  the  refreshing  sound  reach  the 
ears  of  the  horses,  than  the  poor  animals  snuffed 
the  air,  rushed  forward  with  ungovernable  eager- 
ness, and  plunging  their  muzzles  into  the  water, 
drank  until  they  seemed  in  danger  of  bursting. 
Their  riders  had  but  little  more  discretion,  and 
required  repeated  draughts  to  quench  their  ex- 
cessive thirst.  Their  weary  march  that  day  had 
been  forty-five  miles,  over  a  tract  that  might  "ival 
the  deserts  of  Africa  for  aridity.  Indeed,  the 
sufferings  of  the  traveller  on  these  American  des- 
erts is  frequently  more  severe  than  in  the  wastes 
of  Airica  or  Asia,  from  being  less  habituated  and 
orepared  to  cope  with  them. 

On  the  banks  of  this  blessed  stream  the  trav- 

?jllers  encamped  for  the  night ;  and  so  great  had 

been  their  fatigue,  and  so  sound  and  sweet  was 

.  their  sleep,  that  it  was  a  late  hour  the  next  morn- 


ger- 

ater, 

ing. 
and 
ex- 
had 
nval 
the 
des- 
astes 
and 

Itrav- 

had 

was 

lorn- 


T«» 


f  I 


GLEN  AND  MOUNTAIN. 


453 


mg  before  they  awoke.  They  now  recognized 
the  little  river  to  be  the  Umatalla,  the  same  on 
the  banks  of  which  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  followers 
had  arrived  after  their  painful  struggle  through 
the  Blue  Mountains,  and  experienced  such  a 
kind  relief  in  the  friendly  camp  of  the  Sciatogas. 

That  range  of  Blue  Mountains  now  extended 
in  the  distance  before  them ;  they  were  the  same 
among  which  poor  Michael  Carriere  had  perished. 
They  form  the  southeast  boundary  of  the  great 
plains  along  the  Columbia,  dividing  the  waters 
of  its  main  stream  from  those  of  Lewis  Eiver. 
They  are,  in  fact,  a  part  of  a  long  chain,  which 
stretches  over  a  great  extent  of  country,  and 
includes  in  its  links  the  Snake  Kiver  Moun- 
tains. 

The  day  was  somewhat  advanced  before  the 
travellers  left  the  shady  banks  of  the  Umatalla. 
Their  route  gradually  took  them  among  the  Blue 
Mountains,  which  assumed  the  most  rugged  as- 
pect on  a  near  approach.  They  were  shagged 
with  dense  and  gloomy  forests,  and  cut  up  by 
deep  and  precipitous  ravines,  extremely  toilsomo 
to  the  horses.  Sometimes  the  travellers  had  to 
follow  the  course  oj*  some  brawling  stream,  with 
a  broken,  rocky  bed,  which  the  shouldering  cliffs 
and  promontories  on  either  side  obliged  them 
frequently  to  cross  and  recross.  For  some  miles 
they  struggled  forward  through  fch*^se  savage  and 
darkly  wooded  defiles,  when  all  at  once  the  whole 
landscape  changed,  as  if  by  magic.  The  rude 
mountains  and  rugged  ravines  softened  into 
beautifil   hills,   and   intervening  meadows,  with 


45^ 


ASTORIA, 


m 


rivulets  winding  through  fresh  herbage,  and 
sparkling  and  murmuring  over  gravelly  beds, 
the  whole  forming  a  verdant  and  pastoral  scene, 
which  derived  additional  charms  from  being 
locked  up  in  the  bosom  of  such  a  hard-hearted 
region. 

Emerging  from  the  chain  of  Blue  Mountains, 
they  descended  upon  a  vast  plain,  almost  a  dead 
level,  sixty  miles  in  circumference,  of  excellent 
soil,  with  fine  streams  meandering  through  it  in 
every  direction,  their  courses  marked  out  in  the 
wide  landscape  by  serpentine  lines  of  cotton -wood 
trees,  and  willows,  which  fringed  their  banks,  and 
afforded  sustenance  to  great  numbers  of  beaverB 
and  otters. 

In  traversing  this  plain,  they  passed,  dose  to 
the  skirts  of  the  hills,  a  great  pool  of  water, 
three  hundred  yards  in  circumference,  fed  by  a 
sulphur  spring,  about  ten  feet  in  diameter,  boUing 
up  in  one  corner.  The  vapor  from  this  pov^/l 
was  extremely  noisome,  and  tainted  the  air  for  a 
considerable  distance.  Tha  place  was  much  fre- 
quented by  elk,  which  were  found  in  considerab'e 
numbers  in  the  adjacent  mountains,  and  theix 
horns,  shed  in  the  spring-time,  were  strewed  in 
every  direction  around  the  pond. 

On  the  10th  of  August,  they  reached  the  main 
body  of  Woodvile  Creek,  the  same  stream  which 
Mr.  Hunt  had  ascended  in  the  precedii  g  ye.ir, 
shortly  after  his  separation  from  Mr.  Crooks. 

On  the  banks  of  this  stream  tbey  saw  a  herd 
of  nineteen  antelopes ;  a  sight  so  unusual  in  that 
part  of  the  country,  that  at  first  they  doubted 


NEWS   OF 'STRAGGLERS. 


455 


lam 
lich 

lerd 

Itliat 

)ted 


the  evidence  of  ^heir  senses.  They  tried  by 
every  means  to  get  within  shot  of  them,  but  they 
were  too  shy  and  fleet,  and  after  alternately 
bounding  to  a  distance,  and  then  stopping  to  gaze 
with  capricious  curiosity  at  the  hunter,  they  at 
length  scampered  out  of  sight 

On  the  12  th  of  August,  the  travellers  Arrived 
on  the  banks  of  Snake  Biver,  the  scene  of  so 
many  trials  and  mishaps  to  all  of  the  present 
party  excepting  Mr.  Stuart  They  struck  the 
river  just  above  the  place  where  it  entered  the 
mountains,  through  which  Messrs.  Stuart  and 
Crooks  had  vainly  endeavored  to  find  a  passage. 
The  river  was  here  a  rapid  stream,  four  hundred 
yards  in  width,  with  high  sandy  banks,  and  here 
and  there  a  scanty  growth  of  willow.  Up  the 
southern  side  of  the  river  they  now  bent  their 
course,  intending  to  visit  the  caches  made  by  Mr, 
Hunt  at  the  Caldron  Linn. 

On  the  second  evening,  a  solitary  Snake  In- 
dian visited  their  camp,  at  a  late  hour,  and 
informed  them  that  there  was  a  white  man  re- 
siding at  one  of  the  cantonments  of  his  tribe, 
about  a  day's  journey  higher  up  the  river.  It 
was  immediately  concluded,  that  he  must  be  one 
of  the  poor  fellows  of  Mr.  Hunt's  party,  who  had 
given  out,  exhausted  by  hunger  and  fatigue,  in 
the  wretched  journey  of  the  preceding  winter. 
All  present  who  had  borne  a  part  in  the  suflfer- 
Ings  of  that  journey,  were  eager  now  to  press 
forward,  and  bring  relief  to  a  lost  comrade. 
Early  the  next  morning,  therefore,  they  pushed 
forward  with   unusual  alacrity.     For  two  dayS| 


456 


ASTORIA. 


however,  did  they  travel  without  being  able  to 
find  any  trace  of  such  a  straggler. 

On  the  evening  of  the  second  day,  they  ar- 
rived at  a  place  where  a  large  river  came  in  from 
the  east,  which  was  renowned  among  all  the 
wandering  hordes  of  the  Snake  nation  for  its 
salmon  fishery,  that  fish  being  taken  in  incredible 
quantities  in  this  neighborhood.  Here,  therefore, 
during  the  fishing  season,  the  Snake  Indians 
resort  from  far  and  near,  to  lay  in  their  stock  of 
salmon,  which,  with  esculent  roots,  forms  the 
principal  food  of  the  inhabitants  of  these  barren 
regions. 

On  the  bank  of  a  small  stream  emptying  into 
Snake  River  at  this  place,  Mr.  Stuart  found  an 
racampment  of  Shoshonies.  He  made  the  usual 
mquiry  of  them  concerning  the  white  man  of 
whom  he  had  received  intelligence.  No  such 
person  was  dwelling  among  them,  but  they  said 
there  were  white  men  residing  with  some  of  their 
nation  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river.  This 
was  still  more  animating  information.  Mr.  Crooks 
now  hoped  that  these  might  be  the  men  of  his 
party,  who,  disheartened  by  perils  and  hardships, 
had  preferred  to  remain  among  the  Indians. 
Others  thought  they  might  be  Mr.  Miller  and 
the  hunters  who  had  left  the  an.ain  body  at  Henry's 
Fort,  to  trap  among  the  mountain  streams.  Mr. 
Stuart  halted,  therefore,  in  the  neighlorhood  of 
the  Shoshonie  lodges,  and  sent  an  Indian  across 
the  river  to  seek  out  the  white  men  in  question, 
find  bring  them  to  bis  camp. 

The    travellers    passed  a  restless,  miserable 


AN  UNWELCOME   CLAIMANT.' 


457 


Icross 
>tioii, 

Irable 


night  The  place  swarmed  with  myriads  of  mus- 
quitoes,  which,  with  their  stings  and  their  music, 
set  all  sleep  at  defiance.  The  morning  dawn 
found  them  in  a  feverish,  irritable  mood,  and  their 
spleen  was  completely  aroused  by  the  return  of 
the  Indian  without  any  intelligence  of  the  white 
men.  They  now  considered  themselves  the  dupes 
of  Indian  falsehoods,  and  resolved  to  put  no  more 
confidence  in  Snakes.  They  soon,  however,  for- 
got this  resolution.  In  the  course  of  the  morn- 
ing, an  Indian  came  galloping  after  them;  Mr. 
Stuart  waited  to  receive  him  ;  no  sooner  had  he 
come  up,  than,  dismounting  and  throwing  his  arms 
round  the  neck  of  Mr.  Stuart's  horse,  he  began 
to  kiss  and  caress  the  animal,  who,  on  his  part, 
seemed  by  no  means  surprised  or  displeased  with 
his  salutation.  Mr.  Stuart,  who  valued  his  horse 
highly,  was  somewhat  annoyed  by  these  trans- 
ports ;  the  cause  of  them  was  soon  explained 
The  Snake  said  the  horse  had  belonged  to  him, 
and  been  the  best  in  his  possession,  and  that  it 
had  been  stolen  by  the  Wallah- Wallahs.  Mr. 
Stuart  was  by  no  means  pleased  with  this  recog- 
nition of  his  steed,  nor  disposed  to  admit  any 
claim  on  the  part  of  its  ancient  owner.  In  fact, 
it  was  a  noble  animal,  admirably  shaped,  of  free 
and  generous  spirit,  graceful  in  movement,  and 
fieet  as  an  antelope.  It  was  his  intention,  if 
possible,  to  take  the  horse  to  New  York,  and 
present  him  to  Mr.  Astor. 

In  the  mean  time,  some  of  the  party  came  up, 
and  immediately  recognized  in  the  Snake  an  old 
&iend  and  ally.     He  was,  in  fact,  one  of  the  two 


458 


ASTORIA. 


guides  who  had  conducted  Mr.  Hunt's  party,  la 
the  preceding  autumn,  across  Mad  River  Moun- 
tain to  Fort  Henry,  and  who  subsequently 
departed  with  Mr.  Miller  and  his  fellow  trappers, 
to  conduct  them  to  a  good  trapping  ground. 
The  reader  may  recollect  that  these  two  trusty 
Snakes  were  engaged  by  Mr.  Hunt  to  return 
and  take  charge  of  the  horses  which  the  party 
intended  to  leave  at  Fort  Henry,  when  they 
should  embark  in  canoes. 

The  party  now  crowded  round  the  Snake,  and 
began  to  question  him  with  eagerness.  His 
replies  were  somewhat  vague,  and  but  partially 
understood.  He  toM  a  long  story  about  the 
horses,  from  which  it  appeared  that  they  had 
been  stolen  by  various  wandering  bands,  and 
scattered  in  different  directions.  The  cache,  too, 
had  been  plundered,  and  the  saddles  and  other 
equipments  carried  off.  His  information  con- 
cerning Mr.  IVIiller  and  his  comrades  was  not 
more  satisfactory.  They  had  trapped  for  some 
time  about  the  upper  streams,  but  had  fallen 
into  the  hands  of  a  marauding  party  of  Crows, 
who  had  robbed  them  of  horses,  weapons,  and 
everything. 

Further  questioning  brought  forth  further  in- 
telligence, but  all  of  a  disastrous  kind.  About 
ten  days  previously,  he  had  met  with  three 
other  white  men,  in  very  miserable  plight,  having 
one  horse  each,  and  but  one  rifle  among  them. 
They  also  had  been  plundered  and  maltreated 
by  the  Crows,  those  universal  freebooters.  The 
Suako   endeavored   to  pronoimce  the  names  of 


THE  SNAKE'S  STRATAGEM, 


459 


ted 
of 


these  three  men,  and  as  far  as  his  imperfect 
sounds  could  be  understood,  they  were  supposed 
to  be  three  of  the  party  of  four  hunters,  namely, 
Carson,  St.  Michiel,  Detay^,  and  Delaunay, 
who  were  detached  from  Mr.  Hunt's  party  on 
the  28th  of  September,  to  trap  beaver  on  the 
head  waters  of  the  Columbia. 

In  the  course  of  conversation,  the  Indian  in- 
formed them  that  the  route  by  which  Mr.  Hunt 
had  crossed  the  Rocky  Mountains  was  very  bad 
and  circuitous,  and  that  he  knew  one  much  shorter 
and  easier.  Mr.  Stuart  urged  him  to  accompany 
them  as  guide,  promising  to  reward  him  with  a 
pistol  with  powder  and  ball,  a  knife,  an  awl,  some 
blue  beads,  a  blanket,  and  a  looking^^lass.  Such 
a  catalogue  of  riches  was  too  tempting  to  be  re- 
sisted; beside  the  poor  Snake  languished  after 
the  prairies ;  he  was  tired,  he  said,  of  salmon, 
and  longed  for  buffalo  meat,  and  to  have  a  grand 
buffalo  hunt  beyond  the  mountains.  He  departed;, 
therefore,  with  all  speed,  to  get  his  arms  and 
equipments  for  the  journey,  promising  to  rejoin 
the  party  the  next  day.  He  kept  his  word,  and, 
as  he  no  longer  said  anything  to  Mr.  Stuart  on 
the  subject  of  the  pet  horse,  they  journeyed  very 
harmoniously  together ;  though  now  and  then, 
the  Snake  would  regard  his  quondam  steed  with 
a  wistful  eye. 

They  had  hot  travelled  many  miles,  when  they 
came  tp  a  great  bend  in  the  river.  Here  the 
Snake  informed  them  that,  by  cutting  across  the 
nills  they  would  save  many  miles  of  distance. 
The  route  across,  however,  would  be  a  good  day'i 


460 


ASTORIA. 


h 


journey.  He  advised  them,  therefore,  to  encamp 
here  for  the  night,  and  set  off  early  in  the  morn- 
ing. They  took  his  advice,  though  they  had 
come  but  nine  miles  that  day. 

On  the  following  mornuig  ihey  rose,  bright 
and  early,  to  ascend  the  hills.  On  mustering 
their  little  party,  the  guide  was  missing.  They 
supposed  him  to  be  somewhere  in  the  neighbor- 
hood, and  proceeded  to  collect  the  horses.  The 
vaunted  steed  of  Mr.  Stuart  was  not  to  be  found. 
A  suspicion  flashed  upon  his  mind.  Search  for 
the  horse  of  the  Snake  I  He  likewise  was  gone 
—  the  tracks  of  two  horses,  one  after  the  other, 
were  found,  making  off  from  the  camp.  They 
appeared  as  if  one  horse  had  been  mounted,  and 
the  other  led.  They  were  traced  for  a  few  miles 
above  the  camp,  until  they  both  crossed  the  river. 
It  was  plain  the  Snake  had  taken  an  Indian  mode 
of  recovering  his  horse,  having  quietly  decamped 
with  him  in  the  night. 

New  vows  were  made  never  more  to  trust  in 
Snakes,  or  any  other  Indians.  It  was  deter- 
mined, also,  to  maintain,  hereafter,  the  strictest 
vigilance  over  their  horses,  dividing  the  night  into 
thi'ee  watches,  and  one  person  mounting  guard  at 
a  time.  They  resolved,  also,  to  keep  along  the 
river,  instead  of  taking  the  short  cut  recommend- 
ed by  the  fugitive  Snake,  whom  they  now  set 
down  for  a  thorough  deceiver.  The  heat  of  the 
weather  was  oppressive,  and  their  horses  were, 
at  times,  rendered  almost  frantic  by  the  stings  of 
the  prairie  flies.  The  nights  were  suffocating, 
and  it  was  almost  impossible  to  sleep,  &om  the 
swarms  of  musquitoes. 


MEETING    WITH  LOST   CO.\TRADES.     461 


W 


On  the  20th  of  August  they  resumed  their 
march,  keeping  along  the  prairie  parallel  to  Snake 
River.  The  day  was  sultry,  and  some  of  the 
party,  being  parched  with  thirst,  left  the  line  of 
march,  and  scrambled  down  &q  bank  of  the 
river  to  drink.  The  bank  was  overhung  with 
willows,  beneath  which,  to  their  surprise,  they 
beheld  a  man  fishing.  No  sooner  did  he  see 
them,  than  he  uttered  an  exclamation  of  joy.  It 
proved  to  be  John  Hoback,  one  of  their  lost 
comrades.  They  had  scarcely  exchanged  greet- 
ings, when  three  other  men  came  out  from  among 
the  willows.  They  were  Joseph  Miller,  Jacob 
Rezner,  and  Robinson,  the  scalped  Kentuckian, 
the  veteran  of  the  Bloody  Ground. 

The  reader  will  perhaps  recollect  the  abrupt 
and  willful  manner  m  which  Mr.  Miller  threw  up 
his  interest  as  a  partner  of  the  company,  and  de- 
parted from  Fort  Henry,  in  company  with  these 
three  trappers,  and  a  fourth,  named  Cass.  He 
may  likewise  recognise  in  Robinson,  Rezner,  and 
Hoback,  the  trio  of  Kentucky  hunters  who  had 
originally  been  in  the  service  of  Mr.  Henry,  and 
whom  Mr.  Hunt  found  floating  down  the  Missouri, 
on  their  way  homeward ;  and  prevailed  upon,  once 
more,  to  cross  the  mountains.  The  haggard  looks 
and  naked  condition  of  these  men  proved  how 
much  they  had  suffered.  After  leaving  Mr.  Hunt's 
party,  they  had  made  their  way  about  two  hundred 
miles  to  the  southward,  where  they  trapped  beaver 
on  a  river  which,  according  to  their  account,  dis- 
tharged  itself  into  the  ocean  to  the  south  of  the 
Columbia,  but  which  we  apprehend  to  be  Bear 


462 


ASTORIA. 


River,  a  stream  emptying  itself  into  Lake  Bonne* 
rille,  an  immense  body  of  salt  water,  west  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains. 

Having  collected  a  considerable  quantity  of 
beaver  skins,  they  made  them  into  packs,  loaded 
their  horses,  and  steered  two  hundred  miles  due 
east  Here  they  came  upon  an  encampment  of 
sixty  lodges  of  Arapahays,  an  outlawed  band  of  the 
Arrapahoes,  and  notorious  robbers.  These  fell 
upon  the  poor  trappers;  robbed  them  of  their 
peltries,  most  of  their  clothing,  and  several  of 
their  horses.  They  were  glad  to  escape  with 
their  lives,  and  without  being  entirely  stripped, 
and  after  proceeding  about  fifty  miles  further,  made 
their  halt  for  the  winter. 

Early  in  the  spring  they  resumed  their  way- 
faring, but  were  unluckily  overtaken  by  the  same 
ruffian  horde,  who  levied  still  fui'ther  contributions, 
and  carried  off  the  remainder  of  their  horses,  ex- 
cepting two.  With  these  they  continued  on,  suf- 
fering the  greatest  hardships:  They  still  retained 
rifles  and  ammunition,  but  were  in  a  desert  coun- 
try, where  neither  bird  nor  beast  was  to  be  found. 
Their  only  chance  was  to  keep  along  the  rivers 
and  subsist  by  Ashing ;  but  at  times  no  flsh  were 
to  be  taken,  and  then  their  sufferings  were  hor- 
rible. One  of  their  horses  was  stolen  among  the 
mountains  by  the  Snake  Indians ;  the  other,  they 
said,  was  carried  off  by  Cass,  who,  according  to 
tlieir  account,  "  villainously  left  them  in  their  ex- 
eremities."  Certain  dark  doubts  and  surmises 
were  afterwards  circulated  concerning  the  fate  of 
that  poor  fellow,  which,  if  true,  showed  to  what  a 


MR.   MILLER   TURNS  HOMEWARD.       463 


way- 
j  same 

J8,  ex- 
Q,  suf- 
tained 
coun- 
found. 
rivers 
I  were 
hor- 
g  the 
,  they 
to 
ir  ex- 
rmisea 
'ate  of 
hat  a 


desperate  state  of  famine  his  comrades  had  been 
reduced. 

Being  now  completely  unhorsed,  Mr.  ^liller 
and  his  three  companions  wandered  on  foot  for 
several  hundred  miles,  enduring  hunger,  thirst, 
and  fatigue,  while  traversing  the  barren  waste  j 
which  abound  beyon:^  the  Rocky  Mountains.  At 
the  time  they  were  discovered  by  Mr.  Stuart's 
party,  they  were  almost  famished,  and  were  fish- 
ing for  a  precarious  meal.  Had  Mr.  Stuart  made 
the  short  cut  across  the  hills,  avoiding  this  bend 
of  the  river,  or  had  not  some  of  his  party  ac- 
cidentally gone  down  to  the  margin  of  the  stream 
to  drink,  these  poor  wanderers  might  have  re- 
mained undiscovered,  and  have  perished  in  the 
wilderness.  Nothing  could  exceed  their  joy  on 
thus  meeting  with  their  old  comrades,  or  the 
heartiness  with  which  they  were  welcomed.  All 
hands  immediately  encamped;  and  the  slender 
stores  of  the  party  were  ransacked  to  furnish  out 
a  suitable  regale. 

The  next  morning  they  all  set  out  together ; 
Mr.  Miller  and  his  comrades  being  resolved  to 
give  up  the  life  of  a  trapper,  and  accompany 
Mr.  Stuart  back  to  St.  Louis. 

For  several  days  they  kept  along  the  course 
of  Snake  River,  occasionally  making  short  cuts 
across  hills  and  promontories,  where  there  were 
bends  in  the  stream.  In  their  way  they  passed 
several  camps  of  Shoshonies,  from  some  of  whom 
they  procured  salmon,  but  in  general  they  were 
too  wretchedly  poor  to  furnish  anything.  It  was 
the  wish  of  Mr.  Stuart  to  purchase  horses  for  tlie 


464 


ASTORIA. 


recent  recruits  of  liis  party ;  but  the  Indians  coul  I 
not  be  prevailed  upon  to  part  with  any,  alle.inj 
that  they  had  not  enough  for  their  own  use. 

On  the  25th  of  August  they  reached  a  great 
fishing  place,  to  which  they  gave  the  name  of  the 
Salmon  Falls.  Here  there  is  a  perpendicular  fall 
of  twenty  feet  on  the  north  side  of  the  river, 
while  on  the  south  side  there  is  a  succession  of 
rapids.  The  salmon  are  taken  here  in  incredible 
quantities,  as  they  attempt  to  shoot  the  falls.  It 
was  now  a  favorable  season,  and  there  were  about 
one  hundred  lodges  of  Shoshonies  busily  erigaged 
killing  and  drying  fish.  The  salmon  begin  to 
leap  shortly  after  sunrise.  At  this  time  the  In- 
dians swim  to  the  centre  of  the  falls,  where  some 
station  themselves  on  rocks,  and  others  stand  to 
their  waists  in  the  water,  all  armed  with  spears, 
with  wliich  they  assail  the  salmon  as  they  attempt 
to  leap,  or  fall  back  exhausted.  It  is  an  incessant 
slaughter,  so  great  is  the  throng  of  the  fish. 

The  construction  of  the  spears  thus  used  is 
peculiar.  The  head  is  a  straight  piece  of  elk 
horn,  about  seven  inches  long,  on  the  point  of 
which  an  artificial  barb  is  made  fast,  with  twine 
well  gummed.  The  head  is  stuck  on  the  end  of  . 
the  shaft,  a  very  long  pole  of  willow,  to  which  it 
is  likewise  connected  by  a  strong  cord,  a  few  inches 
in  length.  When  the  spearsman  makes  a  sure 
blow,  he  often  strikes  the  head  of  the  spear 
through  the  body  of  the  fish.  It  comes  off  easily, 
and  leaves  the  salmon  struggling  with  the  string 
through  its  body,  while  the  pole  is  still  held  by 
the  spearsman.     Were  it  not  for  the  precaution 


THE  RIFLED  CACHE  3. 


4G5 


IS 

3lk 

lof 

ine 

lof 

it 

les 

ire 

jar 

fy. 
|by 

)n 


of  the  string,  the  willow  shaft  wonld  be  snapped 
by  the  struggles  and  the  weight  of  the  fish.  Mr. 
Miller,  in  the  course  of  his  wanderings,  had  been 
at  these  falls,  and  had  seen  several  thousand  sal- 
mon taken  iu  ttie  course  of  one  afternoon.  He 
declared  that  he  had  seen  a  salmon  leap  a  distance 
of  about  thirty  feet,  from  the  commencement  of 
the  foam  at  the  foot  of  the  fall,  completely  to  the 
top. 

Having  purchased  a  good  supply  of  salmon 
from  the  fishermen,  the  party  resumed  their 
journey,  and  on  the  twenty-ninth,  arrived  at  the 
Caldron  Linn,  the  eventful  scene  of  the  preceding 
autumn.  Here,  the  first  thing  that  met  their  eyes 
was  a  memento  of  the  perplexities  of  that  period ; 
the  wreck  of  a  canoe,  lodged  between  two  ledges 
of  rocks.  They  endeavored  to  get  down  to  it, 
but  the  river  banks  were  too  high  and  precipitous. 

They  now  proceeded  to  that  part  of  the  neighbor- 
hood where  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  party  had  made 
the  caches,  intending  to  take  from  them  such  ar- 
ticles as  belonged  to  Mr.  Crooks,  M'Lellan,  and 
the  Canadians.  On  reaching  the  spot,  they  found, 
to  their  astonishment,  six  of  the  caches  open  and 
rifled  of  their  contents,  excepting  a  few  books 
which  lay  scattered  about  the  vicinity.  They  had 
the  appearance  of  having  been  plundered  in  the 
course  of  the  summer.  There  were  tracks  of 
wolves  in  every  direction,  to  and  from  the  holes, 
from  which  Mr.  Stuart  concluded  ^hat  these  an- 
imals had  first  been  attracted  to  the  place  by  the 
smell  of  the  skins  contained  in  the  caches,  which 


466 


ASTORIA. 


they  had  probably  torn  up,  and  that  t/ieir  tracks 
had  betrayed  the  secret  to  the  Indians. 

The  three  remaming  caches  had  not  been  mo« 
lested:  they  contained  a  few  dry  goods,  some  am- 
munition, and  a  number  of  beaver  traps.  From 
these  Mr.  Stuart  took  whatever  was  requisite  for 
his  party ;  he  then  deposited  within  them  all  his 
superfluous  baggage,  and  all  the  books  and  papers 
scattered  around ;  the  holes  were  then  carefully 
closed  up,  and  all  traces  of  them  effaced.  And 
here  we  have  to  record  another  mstance  of  the 
indomitable  spirit  of  the  western  trappers.  No 
sooner  did  the  trio  of  Kentucky  hunters,  Robin- 
son, Rezner,  and  Hoback,  find  that  they  could 
once  more  be  fitted  out  for  a  campaign  of  beaver- 
trapping,  than  they  forgot  all  that  they  had  suf- 
fered, and  determined  upon  another  trial  of  their 
fortunes ;  preferring  to  take  their  chance  in  the 
wilderness,  rather  than  return  home  ragged  and 
penniless.  As  to  Mr.  Miller,  he  declared  his 
curiosity  and  his  desire  of  travelling  through  the 
Indian  countries  fully  satisfied ;  he  adhered  to  his 
determination,  therefore,  to  keep  on  with  the  party 
to  St.  Louis,  and  to  return  to  the  bosom  of  civil- 
ized society. 

The  three  hunters,  therefore,  Robinson,  Rezner, 
and  Hoback,  were  furnished,  as  far  as  the  caches 
and  the  means  of  Mr.  Stuart's  party  afforded, 
with  the  requisite  munitions  and  equipments  for 
a  "  two  years*  hunt ; "  but  as  their  fitting  out  was 
yet  incomplete,  they  resolved  to  wait  in  this 
neighborhood  until  Mr.  Reed  should  arrive ;  whose 
arrival  might  soon  be  expected,  as  he  was  to  set 


racks 

1  mo« 
e  am- 
From 
te  for 
allhia 
japers 

-efully 
And 
of  the 
.     No 
Elobin- 
could 
reaver- 
ad  suf- 
f  their 
in  the 
id  and 
led   his 
gh  the 
to  his 
party 
civil- 

jzner, 
I  caches 
Forded, 

its  for 

lut  was 

this 

whose 

to  set 


THE  PERSEVERING    TRAPPERS. 


467 


otit  for  the  caches  about  twenty  days  after  Mr 
Stuart  parted  with  him  at  the  Wallah- Wallah 
River. 

Mr.  Stuart  gave  in  charge  to  Kobinson  a  letter 
to  Mr.  Reed,  reporting  his  safe  journey  thus  far, 
and  the  state  in  whidi  he  had  found  the  caches. 
A  duplicate  of  this  letter  he  elevated  on  a  pole, 
and  set  it  up  near  the  place  of  deposit 

All  things  being  thus  arranged,  Mr.  Stuart  and 
his  little  band,  now  seven  in  number,  took  leave  of 
the  three  Hardy  trappers,  wishing  them  all  possible 
success  in  their  lonely  and  perilous  sojourn  in  the 
wilderness ;  and  we,  in  like  manner,  shall  leave 
them  to  their  fortunes,  promising  to  take  them  up 
again  at  some  foture  page,  and  to  dose  the  stcry 
of  their  persevering  and  ill-fated  enterprise. 


CHAPTER  XLV. 

N"  the  1st  of  September,  Mr.  Stuart  and 
his  companions  resumed  their  journey, 
bending  their  course  eastward,  along  the 
course  of  Snake  River.  As  they  advanced,  the 
country  opened.  The  hills  which  had  hemmed  in 
the  river  receded  on  either  hand,  and  great  sandy 
and  dusty  plains  extended  before  them.  Occa- 
sionally there  were  intervals  of  pasturage,  and 
the  banks  of  the  river  were  fringed  with  wil- 
lows and  cotton-wood,  so  that  its  course  might  be 
traced  from  the  hill-tops,  winding  under  an  umbra- 
geous covert,  through  a  wide  sunburnt  landscape. 
The  soil,  however,  was  generally  poor ;  there  was 
in  some  places  a  miseratble  growth  of  worm- 
wood, and  a  plant  called  sal  tweed,  resembling 
pennyroyal ;  but  the  summer  had  parched  the 
plains,  and  left  but  little  pasturage.  The  game, 
too,  had  disappeared.  The  hunter  looked  in  vain 
over  the  lifeless  landscape ;  now  and  then  a  few 
antelope  mig  it  be  seen,  but  not  within  reach  of 
the  rifle.  We  forbear  to  follow  the  travellers  in  a 
week's  wandering  over  these  barren  wastes,  where 
they  suffered  much  from  hunger,  having  to  de- 
pend upon  a  few  fish  from  the  streams,  and  now 
and  then  a  little  dried  salmon,  or  a  dog,  procured 
from  some  forlorn  lodge  of  Shoshonies. 


II 


;  and 

irney, 

ig  the 

a,  the 

led  in 

sandy 

Occa- 

B,  and 

ti  wil- 

ight  be 

imbra- 

Iscape. 
•e  was 
rorm- 
ibling 
}d  the 
game, 

In  vain 
a  few 
ich  of 
Irs  in  a 
where 
I  to  de- 
Id  now 
locured 


A    CROW  GIANT  AND  HIS  GANG.       469 

Tired  of  these  cheerless  wastes,  they  left  the 
banks  of  Snake  River  on  the  7th  of  September, 
under  guidance  of  Mr.  Miller,  who  having  ac- 
quired some  knowledge  of  the  country  during  his 
trapping  campaign,  undertook  to  conduct  them 
across  the  mountains  by  a  better  route  than  that 
by  Fort  Henry,  and  one  more,  out  of  the  range 
of  the  Blackieet.  He  proved,  however,  but  an 
indifferent  guide,  and  they  soon  became  bewil- 
dered among  rugged  hills  and  unknown  streams, 
and  burnt  and  barren  prairies. 

At  length  they  came  to  a  river  on  which  Mr. 
Miller  had  trapped,  and  to  which  they  gave  his 
name ;  though,  as  before  observed,  we  presume 
it  to  be  the  same  called  Bear  River,  which 
empties  itself  into  Lake  Bonneville.  Up  this 
river  and  its  branches  they  kept  for  two  or  three 
days,  supporting  themselves  precariously  upon 
fish.  They  soon  found  that  they  were  in  a 
dangerous  neigh borliood.  On  the  12th  of  Sep- 
tember, having  encamped  early,  they  sallied  forth 
with  their  rods  to  angle  for  their  supper.  On 
returning,  they  beheld  a  number  of  Indians 
prowling  about  their  camp,  whom,  to  their  infin- 
ite disquiet,  they  soon  perceived  to  be  Upsa- 
rokas,  or  Crows.  Their  chief  came  forward  with 
a  confident  air.  He  was  a  dark  herculean  fisUow, 
full  six  feet  four  inches  in  height,  with  a  mingled 
air  of  the  rufiian  &nd  the  rogue.  He  conducted 
himself  peaceably,  however,  and  dispatched  some 
of  his  people  to  their  camp,  which  was  some- 
where in  the  neighborhood,  from  whence  they 
returned  with  a  most  acceptable  supply  of  buffalo 


m 


iff 


470 


A8T0RI4. 


meat.  He  now  signified  to  Mr.  Stuart  that  he 
was  going  to  trade  with  the  Snakes  who  reside 
on  the  west  base  of  the  mountains,  below  Henry's 
Fort.  Here  they  cultivate  a  delicate  kind  of 
tobacco,  much  esteemed  and  sought  aller  by  thd 
mountain  tribes.  There  was  a  something  sinis* 
ter,  however,  in  the  look  of  this  Indian,  that  in* 
spired  distrust.  By  degrees,  the  number  of  his 
people  increased,  unttl,  by  midnight,  there  wero 
twenty-one  of  them  about  the  camp,  who  begao 
to  be  impudent  and  troublesome.  The  greatest 
uneasiness  was  now  felt  for  the  safety  of  the 
horses  and  efiects,  and  every  one  kept  vigilant 
watch  throughout  the  night. 

The  morning  dawned,  however,  without  any 
unpleasant  occurrence,  and  Mr.  Stuart,  having 
purchased  all  the  bufiUlo  meat  that  the  Crows  had 
to  spare,  prepared  to  depart.  His  Indian  ac- 
quaintances, however,  were  disposed  for  further 
dealings ;  and  above  all,  anxious  for  a  supply  of 
gunpowder,  for  which  they  offered  horses  in  ex^* 
change.  Mr.  Stuart  declined  to  furnish  them 
with  the  dangerous  commodity.  They  became) 
more  importunate  in  their  solicitations,  until  they 
met  with  a  flat  refusal. 

The  gigantic  chief  now  stepped  forward,  as- 
sumed a  swelling  air,  and,  slapping  himself  upon 
the  breast,  gave  Mr.  Crooks  to  undei*stand  that 
he  was  a  chief  of  great  pov/er  and  importance. 
He  signified,  further,  that  it  was  customary  for 
great  chiefs  when  they  met,  to  make  each  other 
presents.  He  requested,  therefore,  that  Mr. 
Stuart  would   alight,   and  give   him   the   horse 


II 


A   CROW  JOKE, 


471 


as* 


u 


upo 
thafc 
Itance. 
for 
other 
Mr. 
horee 


\ 


upon  which  he  ^as  mounted.  This  was  a  noble 
animal,  of  one  of  the  wild  races  of  tlie  prairies  ; 
on  which  Mr.  Stuart  set  great  value;  he,  of 
course,  shook  his  head  at  the  request  of  the  Crow 
dignitary.  Upon  this  the  latter  strode  up  to  bim, 
and  taking  hold  of  him,  moved  him  backwards 
and  forwards  in  his  saddle,  as  if  to  make  him  feel 
that  he  was  a  mere  child  within  his  grasp.  Mr. 
Stuart  preserved  his  calmness,  and  still  shook  his 
bead.  The  chief  then  seized  the  bridle,  and 
gave  it  a  jerk  that  startled  the  horse,  and  nearly 
brought  the  rider  to  the  ground.  Mr.  Stuart  in* 
stantlj  drew  forth  a  pistol,  and  presented  it  at 
the  head  of  the  bully-ruffian.  In  a  twinkling 
his  swaggering  was  at  an  end,  and  he  dodged 
behind  his  horse  to  escape  the  expected  shot* 
As  his  subject  Crows  gazed  on  the  affray  from  a 
little  distance,  Mr.  Stuart  ordered  bis  men  to 
level  their  rifles  at  them,  but  not  to  fire.  The 
whole  crew  scampered  among  the  bushes,  and 
throwing  themselves  upon  the  ground^  vanished 
from  sight. 

Tlie  chieftain  thus  left  alone,  was  confounded 
for  an  instant ;  but,  recovering  himself  with  true 
Indian  shrewdness,  burst  into  a  loud  laugh,  and 
affected  to  turn  off  the  whole  matter  as  a  piece  of 
pleasantry.  Mr.  Stuart  by  no  means  relished^ 
such  equivocal  joking,  but  it  was  not  his  policy 
to  get  into  a  quarrel;  so  he  joined  with  the 
best  grace  he  could  assume  in  the  merriment 
of  the  jocular  giant ;  and,  to  console  the  latter 
for  the  refusal  of  the  horse,  made  him  a  present 
of  twenty  charges  of  powder      Tl^ey  parted,  ao* 


! 


472 


AST  OBI  A, 


cording  to  all  outward  professions,  the  best 
friends  in  the  world ;  it  was  evident,  however 
that  nothing  but  the  smallness  of  his  own  force, 
and  the  martial  array  and  alertness  of  the  white 
men,  had  prevented  the  Crow  chief  from  pro- 
ceeding to  open  outrage.  As  it  was,  his  worthy 
followers,  in  the  course  of  their  brief  interview, 
had  contrived  to  purloin  a  bag  containing  almost 
all  the  culinary  utensils  of  the  party. 

The  travellers  kept  on  their  way  due  east, 
over  a  chain  of  hills.  The  recent  rencontre 
showed  them  that  they  were  now  in  a  land  of 
danger,  subject  to  the  wide  roamings  of  a  preda- 
cious tribe ;  nor,  in  fact,  had  they  gone  many 
miles,  before  they  beheld  sights  calculated  to  in- 
spire anxietj^  and  alarm.  From  the  summits  of 
some  of  the  loftiest  mountains,  in  different  direc- 
tions, columns  of  smoke  began  to  rise.  These 
they  concluded  to  be  signals  made  by  the  run- 
ners of  the  Crow  chieftain,  to  summon  the  strag- 
glers of  his  band,  so  as  to  pursue  them  with 
greater  force.  Signals  of  this  kind,  made  by 
out-runners  from  one  central  point,  will  rouse 
a  wide  circuit  of  the  mountains  in  a  wonderfully 
short  space  of  time;  and  bring  the  straggling 
hunters  and  warrioi*s  to  the  standard  of  their 
chieftain. 

To  keep  as  much  as  possible  out  of  the  way 
of  these  freebooters,  Mr.  Stuart  altered  his 
course  to  the  north,  and,  quitting  the  main 
stream  of  Miller's  River,  kept  up  a  large  branch 
that  came  in  from  the  mountains.  Here  tliey 
SQcamped,  after  a  fatiguing  march  of  twenty-five 


I) 


WEARY  DATS  AND   WATCHFUL  NIGET8.    473 


way 
his 


miles.  As  the  night  drew  on  the  horses  were 
hobbled  or  fettered,  and  tethered  close  to  the 
camp;  a  vigilant  watch  was  maintained  until 
morning,  and  every  one  slept  with  his  rifle  on 
his  arm. 

At  sunrise,  they  were  again  on  the  march, 
still  keeping  to  the  north.  They  soon  began  to 
ascend  the  mountains,  and  occasionally  had  widn 
prospects  over  the  surrounding  country.  Not  a 
sign  of  a  Crow  was  to  be  seen ;  but  this  did  not 
assure  them  of  their  security,  well  knowing  the 
perseverance  of  these  savages  in  dogging  any 
party .  they  intend  to  rob,  and  the  stealthy  way 
in  which  they  can  conceal  their  movements, 
keeping  along  ravines  and  defiles.  After  a 
mountain  scramble  of  twenty-one  miles,  they  en- 
camped on  the  margin  of  a  stream  running  to 
the  north. 

In  the  evening  there  was  an  alarm  of  Indians, 
and  every  one  was  instantly  on  the  alert.  They 
proved  to  be  three  miserable  Snakes,  who  were 
no  sooner  informed  that  a  band  of  Crows  was 
prowling  in  the  neighborhood,  than  they  made 
off  with  great  signi  of  consternation. 

A  couple  more  of  weary  days  and  watchful 
nights  brought  them  to  a  strong  and  rapid 
stream,  running  due  north,  which  they  concluded 
to  be  one  of  the  upper  branches  of  Snake  River. 
It  was  probably  the  same  since  called  Salt  River. 

They  determined  to  bend  their  course  down 
this  river,  as  it  would  take  them  still  further  out 
of  the  dangerous  neighborhood  of  the  Crows, 
They  then  would  strike  upon  Mr.  Hunt's  track 


474 


ASTORIA, 


of  the  preceding  autumn,  and  retrace  it  across 
the  mountains.  The  attempt  to  find  a  better 
route  under  guidance  of  Mr.  Miller  had  cost 
them  a  large  bend  to  the  south;  in  resuming 
Mr.  Hunt's  track,  they  would  at  least  be  sure 
of  their  road.  They  accordingly  turned  down 
along  the  course  of  this  stream  and  at  the  end 
of  three  day's  journey,  came  to  where  it  was 
ioiued  by  a  larger  river,  and  assumed  a  more 
impetuous  character,  raging  and  roaring  among 
rocks  aud  precipices.  It  proved,  in  fact,  to  be 
Mad  River,  already  noted  in  the  expedition  of 
Mr.  Hunt.  On  the  banks  of  this  river,  they  en- 
camped on  the  18th  of  September,  at  an  early 
hour. 

Six  days  had  now  elapsed  since  their  inter- 
view with  the  Crows;  during  that  time  they 
had  come  nearly  a  hundred  and  fifty  miles  to 
the  north  and  west,  without  seeing  any  signs  of 
those  marauders.  They  considered  themselves, 
therefore,  beyond  the  reach  of  molestation,  and 
began  to  relax  in  their  vigilance,  lingering  oc- 
casionally for  part  of  a  day,  where  there  was 
good  pasturage.     The  poor  horses  needed  repose. 

They  had  been  urged  on,  by  forced  marches, 
over  rugged  heights,  among  rocks  and  fallen  tini»> 
ber,  or  over  low  swampy  valleys,  inundated  by 
the  labors  of  the  beaver.  These  industrious 
animals  abounded  in  all  the  mountain  streams 
and  water-courses,  wherever  there  were  willows 
for  their  subsistence.  Many  of  them  they  had 
so  completely  dHmmed  up  as  to  inundate  the  low 
grounds,  making  shallow  pools  or  lakes,  and  ex- 


A  SURPRISE, 


475 


■ 


tensive  quagmires;  b/  which  the  route  of  the 
travellers  was  often  impeded. 

On  tho  19th  of  September,  they  rose  at  earlj 
dawn ;  some  began  to  prepaie  breakfast,  and 
others  to  arrange  the  pacics  preparatory  to  a 
march.  The  horses  had  been  hobbled,  but  left 
at  large  to  graze  upon  the  adjacent  pasture.  Mr. 
Stuart  was  on  the  bank  of  a  river,  at  a  short 
distance  from  the  camp,  when  he  heard  the  alarm 
cry —  "  Indians  I  Indians  I — to  arms !  to  arms  I " 

A  mounted  Crow  galloped  past  the  camp, 
bearing  a  red  flag.  He  reined  his  steed  on  the 
summit  of  a  neighboring  knoll,  and  waved  his 
flaring  banner.  A  diabolical  yell  now  broke 
forth  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  camp,  beyond 
where  the  horses  were  grazing,  and  a  small 
troop  of  savages  came  galloping  up,  whooping 
and  making  a  terrific  clamor.  The  horses  took 
fright,  and  dashed  across  the  camp  in  the  direc* 
tion  of  the  standard-bearer,  attracted  by  his  wav- 
ing flag.  He  instantly  put  spurs  to  his  steed, 
and  scoured  off  followed  by  the  panic-stricken 
herd,  their  fright  being  increased  by  the  yells  of 
the  savages  in  their  rear. 

At  the  first  alarm,  Mr.  Stuart  and  his  com- 
rades had  seized  their  rifles,  and  attempted  to 
cut  off  the  Indians  who  were  pursuing  the 
horses.  Their  attention  was  instantly  distrac- 
ted by  whoops  and  yells  in  an  opposite  direction. 

They  now  apprehended  that  a  reserve  party 
was  about  to  carry  off  their  baggage.  They 
ran  to  secure  it.  The  reserve  pai-ty,  however, 
galloped   by,  whooping  and   yelling   in  triumph 


476 


ASTORIA. 


and  derision.  The  last  of  tliem  proved  to  be 
their  commander,  the  identical  giant  joker  al- 
ready mentioned.  He  whs  not  cast  in  the 
stern  poetical  mould  of  fashionable  Indian  hero* 
ism,  but  on  the  contrary,  was  grievously  given 
to  vulgar  jocularity.  As  he  passed  Mr.  Stuart 
and  his  companions,  he  checked  his  horse,  raised 
himself  in  the  saddle,  and  clapping  his  hand  on 
the  most  insulting  part  of  his  body,  uttered  some 
jeering  words,  which,  fortunately  for  their  deli- 
cacy, they  could  not  understand.  The  rifle  of 
Ben  Jones  was  leveled  in  an  instant,  and  he  was 
on  the  point  of  whizzing  a  bullet  into  the  target 
so  tauntingly  displayed.  *^  Not  for  your  life  I  not 
for  your  life  I "  exclaimed  Mr.  Stuart,  "  you  will 
bring  desti  action  on  us  all ! " 

It  was  hard  to  restrain  honest  Ben,  when  the 
mark  was  so  fair  and  the  insult  so  foul.  "O, 
Mr.  Stuart,"  exclaimed  he,  "only  let  me  have 
one  crack  at  the  infernal  rascal,  and  you  may 
keep  all  the  pay  that  is  due  to  me." 

"  By  heaven,  if  you  fire,"  cried  Mr.  Stuart, 
**  I'll  blow  your  brains  out. 

By  this  time  the  Indian  was  far  out  of  reach, 
and  had  rejoined  his  men,  and  the  whole  dare- 
devil band,  with  the  captured  horses,  scuttled 
off  along  the  defiles,  their  red  flag  flaunting  over 
head,  and.  the  rocks  echoing  to  their  whoops  and 
yells,  and  demoniac  laughter. 

The  unhorsed  travellers  gazed  after  them  in 
silent  mortification  and  despair ;  yet  Mr.  Stuart 
could  not  but  admire  the  style  and  spirit  with 
which  the  whole  exploit  had  been  managed,  and 


II 


INDIAN  LURKER8. 


A.Tt 


jach, 
lare- 
Utled 
lover 
and 

in 

tuart 

(with 

and 


pronounced  it  one  of  the  most  daring  and  in- 
trepid actions  he  had  ever  heard  of  among  In- 
dians. The  whole  number  of  the  Crows  did 
not  exceed  twenty.  In  this  way  a  small  gang 
of  hirkers  will  hurry  oiF  the  cavalry  of  a  large 
war  party,  for  when  once  a  drove  of  horses  are 
seized  with  panic,  they  become  frantic,  and  noth- 
ing short  of  broken  necks  can  stop  them. 

No  one  was  more  annoyed  by  this  unfortunate 
occurrence  than  Ben  Jones.  He  declared  he 
would  actually  have  given  his  whole  arrears  of 
pay,  amounting  to  upwards  of  a  year's  wages, 
rather  than  be  balked  of  such  a  capital  shot. 
Mr.  Stuart,  however,  represented  what  might 
have  been  the  consequence  of  so  rash  an  act. 
Life  for  life  is  the  Indian  maxim.  The  whole 
tribe  would  have  made  common  cause  in  aveng- 
ing the  death  of  a  warrior.  The  party  were 
but  seven  dismounted  men,  with  a  wide  moun 
tain  region  to  traverse,  infested  by  these  people, 
and  which  might  all  be  roused  by  signal  fires. 
In  fact,  the  conduct  of  the  band  of  marauders 
in  question,  showed  the  perseverance  of  savages 
when  once  they  have  fixed  their  minds  upon  a 
project.  These  fellows  had  evidently  been  si- 
lently and  secretly  dogging  the  party  for  a  week 
past,  and  a  distance  of  a  hundred  and  fifty  miles, 
keeping  out  of  sight  by  day,  lurking  about  the 
encampment  at  night,  watching  all  their  move- 
ments, and  waiting  for  a  favorable  moment  when 
they  should  be  off  their  guard.  The  menace  of 
Mr.  Stuart,  in  their  first  interview,  to  shoot  the 
giant  chief  with  his  pistol,  and  the  fright  caused 


478 


ASTORIA, 


among  the  warriors  by  presenting  the  rifles,  h«d 
probnbly  added  the  stimulus  of  pique  to  their 
usual  horse-stealing  propensities.  And  in  this 
mood  of  mind  they  would  doubtless  hnve  fol- 
lowed the  party  throughout  their  whole  course 
over  the  Rocky  Mountains,  rather  than  be  disap- 
pointed in  their  scheme* 


■ 


M 


,  hnd 
their 
this 
I  fol- 
surse 
lisap- 


CHAPTER  XLVL 

EW  reverses  in  this  changeful  world  are 
more  complete  and  disheartening  tk^n 
that  of  a  traveller,  suddenly  unhorsed, 
in  the  midst  of  the  wilderness.  Our  unfortunate 
travellers  contemplated  their  situation,  for  a  time, 
in  perfect  dismay.  A  long  journey  over  rugged 
mountains  and  immeasurable  plains  lay  before 
them,  which  they  must  painfully  perform  on  foot, 
and  everything  necessary  for  subsistence  or  de- 
fense must  be  carried  on  their  shoulders.  Their 
dismay,  however,  was  but  transient,  and  they  im- 
mediately set  to  work,  with  that  prompt  expedi- 
ency produced  by  the  exigencies  of  the  wilderness, 
to  fit  themselves  for  the  change  in  their  condition. 
Their  first  attention  was  to  select  from  their 
baggage  such  articles  as  were  indispensable  to 
their  journey  ;  to  make  them  up  into  convenient 
packs,  and  to  deposit  the  residue  in  caches.  The 
whole  day  was  consumed  in  these  occupations ; 
at  night,  they  made  a  scanty  meal  of  their  re- 
maining provisions,  and  lay  down  to  sleep  with 
heavy  hearts.  In  the  morning,  they  were  up 
and  about  at  an  early  hour,  and  began  to  prepare 
their  knapsacks  for  a  march,  while  Ben  Jones 
repaired  to  an  old  beaver  trap  which  he  had  set 
in  the  river  bank  at  some   little   distance  from 


480 


ASTORIA, 


the  camp.  He  was  rejoiced  to  find  a  middle- 
sized  beaver  there,  sufficient  for  a  morning's  meal 
to  his  hungry  comrades.  On  his  way  back  with 
his  prize,  he  observed  two  heads  peering  over 
the  edge  of  an  impending  cliff,  several  hundred 
feet  high,  which  he  supposed  to  be  a  couple  of 
wolves.  As  he  continued  on,  he  now  and  then 
cast  his  eye  up ;  the  heads  were  still  there, 
looking  down  with  fixed  and  watchful  gaze.  A 
suspicion  now  flashed  across  his  mind  that  they 
might  be  Indian  scouts;  and,  had  they  not  been 
far  above  the  reach  of  his  rifle,  he  would  un- 
doubtedly have  regaled  them  with  a  shot 

On  arriving  at  the  camp,  he  directed  the  atten- 
tion of  his  comrades  to  these  aerial  observers. 
The  same  idea  was  at  first  entertained,  that  they 
were  wolves  ;  but  their  immovable  watchfulness 
soon  satisfied  every  one  that  they  were  Indians. 
It  was  concluded  that  they  were  watching  the 
movements  of  the  party,  to  discover  their  place 
of  concealment  of  such  articles  as  they  would  be 
compelled  to  leave  behind.  There  was  no  likeli- 
hood that  the  caches  would  escape  the  search  of 
such  keen  eyes  and  experienced  rummagers,  and 
the  idea  was  intolerable,  that  any  more  booty 
should  fall  into  their  hands.  To  disappoint  them, 
therefore,  the  travellers  stripped  the  caches  of 
the  articles  deposited  there,  and  collecting  toge- 
ther everything  that  they  could  not  carry  away 
with  them,  made  a  bonfire  of  all  that  would 
burn,  and  threw  the  rest  into  the  river.  There 
was  a  forlorn  satisfaction  in  thus  balking  the 
Crows,  by  the  destruction  of  their  own  property ; 


DOWN  MAD  RIVER. 


481 


liddle. 
s  meal 
k  with 
;   over 
andred 
iple  of 
i  then 
there, 
se.     A 
it  they 
►t  been 
lid  un- 
>t. 

3  atten- 
servers. 
lat  they 
ifulness 
Indians, 
ng  the 
place 
ould  be 
Ukeli- 
arch  of 
ers,  and 
booty 
it  them, 
jhes  of 
ig  toge- 
y  away 
would 
There 
ing    the 
opertF ; 


and,  having  thus  gratified  their  pique,  they  shoul- 
dered their  packs,  about  ten  o'clock  in  the  morning, 
and  set  out  on  their  pedestrian  wayfaring. 

The  route  they  took  was  down  along  the  banks 
of  Mad  River.  This  stream  makes  its  way  through 
the  defiles  i?  the  mountains,  into  the  plain  below 
Fort  Henry,  where  it  terminates  in  Snake  River. 
Mr.  Stuart  was  in  hopes  of  meeting  with  Snake 
encampments  in  the  plain,  where  he  might  pro- 
cure a  couple  of  horses  to  transport  the  baggage. 
In  such  case,  he  intended  to  resume  his  eastern 
course  across  the  mountains,  and  endeavor  to 
reach  the  Cheyenne  River  before  winter.  Should 
he  fail,  however,  of  obtaining  horses,  he  would 
probably  be  comiielled  to  winter  on  the  Pacitic 
side  of  the  mountains,  somewhere  on  the  head 
waters  of  the  Spanish  or  Colorado  River. 

With  all  the  care  that  had  been  observed  in 
taking  nothing  with  them  that  was  not  absolutely 
necessary,  the  poor  pedestrians  were  heavily  laden, 
and  their  burdens  added  40  the  fatigues  of  their 
rugged  road.  They  suffered  much,  too,  from 
hunger.  The  trout  they  caught  were  too  poor 
to  yield  much  nourishment ;  their  main  depen- 
dence, therefore,  was  upon  an  old  beaver  trap, 
which  they  had  providentially  retained.  When- 
ever they  were  fortunate  enough  to  entrap  a 
beaver,  it  was  cut  up  immediately  and  distributed, 
that  each  man  might  carry  his  share. 

After   two   days    of    toilsome    travel,   during 

which  they  made  but  eighteen  miles,  they  stopped 

on  the  2l8t,  to  build  two  rafts  on  which   to  cross 

to  the  north  side  of  the  river.     On  these  th«y 
31 


i'  \ 


482 


ASTORIA, 


embarked,  on  the  following  morning,  four  on  one 
raft,  and  three  on  the  other,  and  pushed  boldly 
from  shore.  Finding  the  rafts  sufficiently  firm 
and  steady  to  withstand  the  rough  and  rapid 
water,  they  changed  their  minds,  and  instead  of 
crossing,  ventured  to  float  down  with  the  current 
The  river  was,  in  general,  very  rapid,  and  from 
one  to  two  hundred  yards  in  width,  winding  in 
every  direction  through  mountains  of  hard  black 
rock,  covered  with  pines  and  cedars.  The  moun- 
tains to  the  east  of  tt^e  river  were  spurs  of  the 
Rocky  ran^s,  and  of  great  magnitude  ;  those  on 
the  west  were  little  better  than  hills,  bleak  and 
barren,  or  scantily  clothed  with  stunted  grass. 

Mad  River,  tkough  deserving  its  name  from  the 
impetuosity  of  its  current,  was  free  from  rapids 
and  cascades,  and  flowed  on  in  a  single  channel 
between  gravel  banks,  often  fringed  with  cotton- 
wood  and  dwarf  willows  in  abundance.  These 
gave  sustenance  to  immense  quantities  of  beaver, 
so  that  the  voyagers  focmd  no  difficulty  in  pro- 
curing food.  Ben  Jones,  also,  killed  a  fallow 
deer  and  a  wolverine,  and  as  they  were  enabled 
to  carry  the  carcasses  on  their  rafts,  their  larder 
was  well  supplied.  Indeed,  they  might  have 
occasionally  shot  beavers  that  were  swimming  in 
tho  river  as  they  floated  by,  but  they  humanely 
spared  their  lives,  being  in  no  want  of  meat  at 
the  time.  In  this  way,  they  kept  down  the  river 
for  three  days,  drifting  with  the  current  and  en- 
camping on  land  at  night,  when  they  drew  up 
their  rafts  on  shore.  Towards  the  evening  of  the 
third  day,  they  came  to  a  little  island  on  wliicb 


RAFTING  A  RIVER. 


483 


on  one 
boldly 
[y  firm 
rapid 
icad  of 
iurrent. 
d  from 
ding  in 
d  black 
J  moun- 
3  of  the 
bose  on 
3ak  and 
pass, 
from  the 
a  rapids 
channel 
cotton- 
These 
beaver, 
in  pro- 
a  fallow 
enabled 
ir  larder 
;ht   have 
Qming  in 
umanely 
meat  at 
the  river 
and  en- 
rew  up 
.2  of  the 
m  wliich 


they  descried  a  gang  of  elk.  Ben  Jones  landed, 
and  was  fortunate  enough  to  wound  one,  which 
immediately  took  to  the  water,  but,  being  unable 
to  stem  the  current,  drifted  above  a  mile,  when 
it  was  overtaken  and  drawn  to  shore.  As  a 
storm  was  gathering,  they  now  encamped  on  the 
margin  of  the  river,  where  they  remained  all 
the  next  day,  sheltering  themselves  as  well  as 
they  could  from  the  rain  and  snow  —  a  sharp 
foretaste  of  the  impending  winter.  During  their 
encampment,  they  employed  themselves  in  jerk 
ing  a  part  of  the  elk  for  future  supply.  In 
cutting  up  the  carcass,  they  found  that  the  animal 
had  been  wounded  by  hunters,  about  a  week 
previously,  an  arrow  head  and  a  musket  ball 
remaining  in  the  wounds.  In  the  wilderness, 
every  trivial  circumstance  is  a  matter  of  anxious 
speculation.  The  Snake  Indians  have  no  guns  ; 
the  elk,  therefore,  could  not  have  been  wounded 
by  one  of  them.  They  were  on  the  borders  of 
the  country  infested  by  the  Blackfeet,  who  carry 
fire-arms.  It  was  concluded,  therefore,  that  the 
elk  had  been  hunted  by  some  of  that  wandering 
and  hoi^ile  tribe,  who,  of  course,  must  be  in  the 
neighborhood.  The  idea  put  an  end  to  the 
transient  solace  they  had  enjoyed  in  the  com- 
parative repose  and  abundance  of  the  river. 

For  three  days  longer  they  continued  to  navi- 
gate with  their  rafts.  The  recent  storm  had 
rendered  the  weather  extremely  cold.  They  had 
low  floated  down  the  river  about  ninety-one 
Diiles,  when,  finding  the  mountains  on  the  right 
diminished  to  moderate  sized  hills,  they  landed, 


I.  I 

il  I     . 


184 


ASTORIA. 


I 


and  prepared  to  resume  their  journey  on  foot 
Accordingly,  having  spent  a  day  in  preparations, 
making  moccasins,  and  parceling  out  their  jerked 
meat  in  packs  of  twenty  pounds  to  CBch  man, 
they  turned  their  backs  upon  the  river  on  the  29th 
of  September  and  strudk  off  to  the  northeast, 
keeping  along  the  southern  skirt  of  the  mountain 
on  which  Henry's  Fort  was  situated. 

Their  march  was  slow  and  toilsome  ;  part  of 
the  time  throujsth  an  alluvial  bottom,  thickly 
grown  with  cotton-wood,  hawthorn,  and  willows, 
and  part  of  the  time  over  rough  hills.  Three  an- 
telopes came  within  shot,  but  they  dared  not  fire 
at  them,  lest  the  report  of  their  rifles  should  be- 
tray them  to  the  Blackfeet.  In  the  course  of  the 
day,  they  came  upon  a  large  horse-track  appar- 
ently about  three  weeks  old,  and  in  the  evening 
encamped  on  the  banks  of  a  small  stream,  on  a 
spot  which  had  been  the  camping  place  of  tliis 
6ame  band. 

On  the  following  morning  they  still  observed 
the  Indian  track,  but  after  a  time  they  came  to 
where  it  separated  in  every  direction,  and  was 
lost  This  showed  that  the  band  had  dispersed  in 
various  hunting  parties,  and  was,  in  all  proba- 
bility, still  in  the  neighborhood  ;  it  was  necessary, 
therefore,  to  proceed  with  the  utmost  caution. 
They  kept  a  vigilant  eye  as  they  marched,  upon 
every  height  where  a  scout  might  be  posted,  and 
scanned  the  solitary  landscapes  and  the  distant 
ravines,  to  observe  any  column  of  smoke ;  but 
nothing  of  the  kind  was  to  be  seen  ;  all  was  in« 
desoribably  stern  and  lifeless. 


TROUBLE   WITH  ATLELLAN. 


485 


1  foot 

ations, 

jerked 

L  man, 

le  29th 

rtheast, 

)uiitam 

)art  of 
thickly 
villows, 
tree  an- 
aot  fire 
uld  be- 
e  of  the 

appar- 
leveuuig 
in,  on  a 

of  thi8 

bserved 
came  to 
md  was 
iCTSfd  in 
proba- 
cessary, 
caution. 
3d,  upon 
ted,  and 
distant 
ke;  but 
was  in- 


Towards  evening  they  came  to  where  there 
wero  several  hot  springs,  strongly  impregnated 
with  iron  and  sulphur,  and  sending  up  a  volume 
of  vapor  that  tainted  the  surrounding  atmosphere, 
and  might  be  seen  at  tl  e  distance  of  a  couple  of 
miles. 

Near  to  these  they  encamped,  in  a  deep  gully, 
which  afforded  some  concealment.  To  their  great 
concern,  Mr.  Crooks,  who  had  been  indisposed  for 
the  two  preceding  days,  had  a  violent  fever  in 
the  night. 

Shortly  after  daybreak  they  resumed  their 
march.  On  emer£^*  i^  from  the  glen,  a  consulta- 
tion was  held  as  to  their  course.  Should  they 
continue  round  the  skirt  of  the  mountain,  they 
would  be  in  danger  of  falling  in  with  the  scattered 
parties  of  Blackfeet,  who  were  probably  hunting 
in  the  plain.  It  was  thought  most  advisable, 
therefore,  to  strike  directly  across  the  mountain, 
since  the  route,  though  rugged  and  diflficult,  would 
be  nM>st  secure.  This  counsel  was  indignantly 
derided  by  M'Lellan  as  pusillanimous.  Hot- 
headed and  impatient  at  all  times,  he  had  been 
rendered  irascible  by  the  &tigues  of  the  journey, 
and  the  condition  of  his  feet,  which  were  chafed 
and  sore.  He  could  not  endure  the  idea  of  en- 
countering the  difficulties  of  the  mountain,  and 
swore  he  would  rather  &ce  all  the  Blackfeet  in 
the  country.  He  was  overruled,  however,  and 
the  party  began  to  ascend  the  mountain,  striving, 
with,  the  ardor  and  emulation  of  young  men,  who 
should  be  first  up.  M'Lellan,  who  was  double 
the  age  of  some  of  his  companions,  soon  began 


18  G 


ASTORIA. 


\l 


„  1 


to  lose  breath,  and  f^iU  in  the  leai  In  the  distri* 
bation  of  burdens,  it  was  his  tarn  to  carry  the 
old  beaver  trap.  Piqued  and  irritated,  he  sud- 
denly came  to  a  halt,  swore  he  would  carry  it  no 
further,  and  jerked  it  half-way  down  the  hill. 
He  was  offered  in  place  of  it  a  package  of  dried 
meat,  but  this  he  scx>rnfully  threw  upon  the 
ground.  They  might  carry  it,  he  said,  who 
needed  it ;  for  his  part,  he  could  provide  his  daily 
bread  with  his  rifle.  He  concluded  by  flinging 
off  from  the  party,  and  keeping  along  the  skirts 
of  the  mountain,  leaving  those,  he  said,  to  climb 
rocks,  who  were  afraid  to  face  Indians.  It  was 
in  vain  that  Mr.  Stuart  represented  to  him  the 
rashness  of  his  conduct,  and  the  dangers  to  which 
he  exposed  himself:  he  rejected  such  counsel  as 
craven.  It  was  equally  useless  to  represent  the 
dangers  to  which  he  subjected  his  companions ;  as 
he  could  be  discovered  at  a  great  distance  on  those 
naked  plains,  and  the  Indians,  seeing  him,  would 
know  that  there  must  be  other  white  men  within 
reach.  M'Lellan  turned  a  deaf  ear  to  every  re- 
monstrance, and  kept  on  his  willful  way. 

It  seems  a  strange  instance  of  perverseness  in 
this  man  thus  to  fling  himself  off  alone,  in  a  sav- 
age region,  where  solitude  itself  was  dismal,  and 
every  encounter  with  his  fellow-man  full  of  peril. 
Such,  however,  is  the  hardness  of  spirit,  and  the 
insensibility  to  danger,  that  grow  upon  men  in 
the  wilderness.  M'Lellan,  moreover,  was  a  man 
of  peculiar  temperament,  ungovernable  in  his 
will,  of  a  courage  that  absolutely  knew  no  fear, 
and  somewhat  of  a  braggart  spirit,  that  took  a 
wide  in  doin$;  desperate  and  hair-brained  thingfl. 


IN  A    VOLCANIC  REGION, 


487 


distri* 
•y  the 
3  sud- 
j  it  no 

e  hill. 
:  dried 
m  the 
I,  who 
is  daily 
flinging 
e  skirts 
D  climb 

It  was 
lim  the 
0  which 
\nsel  as 
jent  the 
ions ;  as 
on  those 

t,  would 
withm 
jvery  re- 

[eness  in 
in  a  sav- 
Imal)  and 
of  peril, 
and  the 
men  in 
Is  a  man 
in    his 
no  fear, 
took  a 
thingfl. 


Mr.  Stuart  and  his  party  found  the  passages  of 
die  mountain  somewhat  difficult,  on  account  of 
the  snow,  which  in  many  places  was  of  consider- 
able depth,  though  it  was  now  but  the  1st  of  Oc- 
tober. They  crossed  the  summit  early  in  the 
aflbernoon,  and  beheld  below  them  a  plain  about 
twenty  miles  wide,  bounded  on  the  opposite  side 
by  their  old  acquaintances,  the  Pilot  Knobs,  those 
towering  mountains  which  had  served  Mr.  Hunt 
as  landmarks  in  part  of  his  route  of  the  preceding 
jrear.  Through  the  intermediate  plain  wandered 
X  river  about  fifty  yards  wide,  sometimes  gleam- 
ing in  open  day,  but  oftener  running  through  wil- 
lowed  banks,  which  marked  its  serpentine  course. 

Those  of  the  party  who  had  been  across  these 
mountains,  pointed  out  much  of  the  bearings  of 
the  country  to  Mr.  Stuart.  They  showed  him  in 
what  direction  must  lie  the  deserted  post  called 
Henry's  Fort,  where  they  had  abandoned  theur 
horses  and  embarked  in  canoes,  and  they  informed 
him  that  the  stream  which  wandered  through  the 
plain  below  them,  fell  into  Henry  River,  half  way 
between  the  fort  and  the  mouth  of  Mad  or  Snake 
River.  The  character  of  all  this  mountain  region 
wras  decidedly  volcinic ;  and  to  the  northwest,  be- 
cweeu  Henry's  Fort  and  the  source  of  the  Mis- 
souri, Mr.  Stuart  observed  several  very  high  peaks 
covered  with  snow,  from  two  of  which  smoke  as- 
cended in  considerable  volumes,  apparently  from 
craters  in  a  state  of  eruption. 

On  then'  way  down  the  mountain,  when  they 
dad  reached  the  skirts,  they  descried  M'Lellan 
At  a  distance,  in  the  advance,  traversing  the  plain. 


488 


ASTORIA. 


Wliether  he  saw  them  or  not,  he  showed  no  dis- 
position to  rejoin  them,  but  pursued  his  sullen 
and  solitary  way. 

After  descending  into  the  plain,  thev  kept  on 
about  six  miles,  until  they  reached  the  little  river, 
which  was  here  about  knee  deep,  and  richly 
fringed  with  willow.  Here  they  encamped  for 
the  night.  At  this  encampment  the  fever  of  Mr. 
Crooks  increased  to  such  a  degree  that  it  was 
impossible  for  him  to  travel.  Some  of  the  men 
were  strenuous  for  Mr.  Stuart  to  proceed  with- 
out him,  urging  the  imminent  danger  they  were 
exposed  to  by  delay  in  that  unknown  and  barren 
region,  infested  by  the  most  treacherous  and  in- 
veterate foes.  They  represented  that  the  season 
was  rapidly  advancing;  the  weather  for  some 
days  had  been  extremely  cold  ;  the  mountains  were 
already  almost  impassable  from  snow,  and  would 
soon  present  effectual  barriers.  Their  provisions 
were  exhausted ;  there  was  no  game  to  be  seen, 
and  they  did  not  dare  to  use  their  rifles,  through 
fear  of  drawing  upon  them  the  Blackfeet. 

The  picture  thus  presented,  was  too  true  to  be 
contradicted,  and  made  a  deep  impression  on  the 
mind  of  Mr.  Stuart ;  but  the  idea  of  abandoning 
a  fellow  being,  and  a  comrade,  in  such  a  forlorn 
situation,  was  too  repugnant  to  his  feelings  to  be 
admitted  for  an  instant.  He  represented  to  the 
men  that  the  malady  of  Mr.  Crooks  could  not  bo 
of  long  duration,  and  that,  in  all  probability,  he 
would  be  able  to  travel  in  the  course  of  a  few 
days.  It  was  with  great  difficulty,  however,  that 
he  prevailed  upon  them  to  abide  the  event. 


QO  dl8- 

sullen 

ept  on 
5  river, 

richly 
)ed  for 
of  Mr. 
it  was 
le  men 
i  with- 
ij  were 

barren 
and  in- 

season 
)r  some 
Ins  were 
i  would 
ovisions 
36  seen, 
through 

le  to  be 
L  on  the 
ndoning 
forloryi 
»s  to  be 
I  to  the 
i  not  bo 
)ility,  he 
f  a  few 
^er,  that 
it. 


CHAPTER   XLVII. 

S  the  travellers  were  now  in  a  dangerous 
neighborhood,  where  the  report  of  a  rifle 
might  bring  the  savages  upon  them,  they 
had  to  depend  upon  their  old  beaver-trap  for  sub- 
sistence. The  little  river  on  which  they  were 
encamped  gave  many  "  beaver  signs,"  and  Ben 
Jones  set  off  at  daybreak,  along  the  willowed 
banks,  to  find  a  proper  trapping-place.  As  he 
was  making  his  way  among  the  thickets,  with  his 
trap  on  his  shoulder  and  his  rifle  in  his  hand,  he 
heard  a  crushing  sound,  and  turning,  beheld  a 
huge  grizzly  bear  advancing  upon  him,  with 
terrific  growl.  The  sturdy  Kentuckian  was  not 
to  be  intimidated  by  man  or  monster.  Leveling 
his  rifle,  he  pulled  the  trigger.  The  bear  was 
wounded,  but  not  mortally  :  instead,  however,  of 
rushing  upon  his  assailant,  as  is  generally  the 
case  with  this  kind  of  bear,  he  retreated  into  the 
bushes.  Jones  followed  him  for  some  distance, 
but  with  suitable  caution,  and  Bruin  effected  his 
escape. 

As  there  was  every  prospect  of  a  detention 
of  some  days  in  this  place,  and  as  the  supplies 
of  the  beaver-trap  were  too  precarious  to  be  de- 
pended upon,  it  became  absolutely  necessary  to 


I'A 


490 


ASTORIA. 


run  some  risk  of  discovery  by  hunting  in  the 
neighborhood.  Ben  Jones,  therefore,  obtamed 
permission  to  range  with  his  rifle  some  distance 
from  the  camp,  and  set  off  to  beat  up  the  river 
banks,  in  defiance  of  bear  or  Blackfeet. 

He  returned  in  great  spirits  in  the  course  of 
a  few  hours,  having  come  upon  a  gang  of  elk 
about  six  miles  off,  and  killed  five.  This  was 
joyful  news,  and  the  pai'ty  immediately  moved 
forward  to  the  place  where  he  had  left  the  car- 
casses. They  were  obliged  to  support  Mr 
Crooks  the  whole  distance,  for  he  was  unable 
to  walk.  Here  they  remained  for  two  or  three 
days,  feasting  heartily  on  elk  meat,  and  drying 
as  much  as  they  would  be  able  to  carry  away 
with  them. 

By  the  5  th  of  October,  some  simple  prescrip- 
tions, together  with  an  "  Indian  sweat,"  had  so 
far  benefited  Mr.  Crooks,  that  he  was  enabled  to 
move  about ;  they  therefore,  set  forward  slowly, 
dividing  his  pack  and  accoutrements  among  them, 
and  made  a  creeping  day*s  progress  of  eight  miles 
south.  Their  route  for  the  most  part  lay  through 
swamps  caused  by  the  industrious  labors  of  the 
beaver:  for  this  little  animal  had  dammed  up 
numerous  small  streams,  issuing  from  the  Pilot 
Knob  Mountains,  so  that  the  low  grounds  on 
their  borders  were  completely  inundated.  In 
the  course  of  their  march  they  killed  a  grizzly 
bear,  with  fat  on  its  flanks  upwards  of  three 
inches  in  thickness.  This  was  an  acceptable  ad- 
dition to  their  stock  of  elk  meat.  The  next  day 
Mr.  Crooks  was  sufficiently  recruited  in  strength 


TRAVERSING  PILOT  KNOB. 


491 


y  in  the 

obtained 

distance 

the  river 

Durse  of 
g  of  elk 
L'his  was 
Y  moved 
the  car- 
)ort  Mr 
3  unable 
or  three 
i  drying 
ry  away 

prescrip- 
"  had  so 
labled  to 
I  slowly, 
ng  them, 
jht  miles 

through 
s  of  the 
imed  up 
the  Pilot 
unds  on 
ted.     In 

,  grizzly 

of  three 
table  ad- 
aext  day 

strength 


to  be  able  to  carry  his  riHe  and  pistols,  and  they 
made  a  march  of  seventeen  miles  along  the  bor- 
ders of  tho  plain. 

Their  journey  daily  became  more  toilsome, 
and  their  sufferings  more  severe,  as  they  ad- 
vanced. Keeping  up  the  channel  of  a  river, 
they  traversed  the  rugged  summit  of  the  Pilot 
Knob  Mountain,  covered  with  snow  nine  inches 
deep.  For  several  days  they  continued,  bending 
their  course  as  much  as  possible  to  the  east,  over 
a  succession  of  rocky  heights,  deep  valleys,  and 
rapid  streams.  Sometimes  their  dizzy  path  lay 
along  the  margin  of  perpendicular  precipices, 
several  hundred  feet  in  height,  where  a  single 
false  step  might  precipitate  them  into  the  rocky 
bed  of  a  torrent  which  roared  below.  Not  the 
least  part  of  their  weary  task  was  the  fording 
of  the  numerous  winduigs  and  branchings  of  the 
mountain  rivers,  all  boisterous  in  their  currents, 
and  icy  cold. 

Hunger  was  added  to  their  other  sufferings, 
and  soon  became  the  keenest.  The  small  sup- 
ply of  bear  and  elk  meat  which  they  had  been 
able  to  carry,  in  addition  to  their  previous  bur- 
dens, served  but  for  a  short  time.  In  their  anx- 
iety to  struggle  forward,  they  had  but  little  time 
to  hunt,  and  scarce  any  game  in  their  path. 
For  three  days  they  had  nothing  to  eat  but  a 
small  duck,  and  a  few  poor  trout.  They  occa- 
sionally saw  numbers  of  the  antelopes,  and  tried 
every  art  to  get  within  shot :  but  the  timid  ani- 
mals were  more  than  commonly  wild,  and  after 
teuializiug  the  hungry  hunters  for  a  time,  ))ounded 


492 


AS  TOR /A. 


away  beyond  all  chance  of  pursuit.  At  length 
they  were  fortunate  enough  to  kill  one  :  it  was 
extremely  meagre,  and  yielded  but  a  scanty 
supply ;  but  on  this  they  subsisted  for  several 
days. 

On  the  11th,  they  encamped  on  a  small  stream, 
near  the  foot  of  the  Spanish  River  Mountain. 
Here  they  met  with  traces  of  that  wayward  and 
solitary  being,  M'Lellan,  who  was  still  keeping 
on  ahead  of  them  through  these  lonely  moun- 
tains. He  had  encamped  the  night  before  on 
this  stream ;  they  found  the  embers  of  the  tire 
by  whicii  he  had  slept,  and  the  remains  of  a 
miserable  wolf  on  which  he  had  supped.  It 
was  evident  he  had  suffered,  like  themselves, 
the  pangs  of  hunger,  though  he  had  fared  better 
at  this:  encampment ;  for  they  had  not  a  mouth- 
ful to  eat. 

The  next  day,  they  rose  hungry  and  alert, 
and  set  out  with  the  dawn  to  climb  the  mountain, 
which  was  steep  and  difficult.  Traces  of  vol- 
canic eruptions  were  to  bcj  seen  in  various  direc- 
tions. There  was  a  species  of  clay  also  to  be 
met  with,  out  of  which  the  Indians  manufacture 
pots  and  jars,  and  dishes.  It  is  very  fine  and 
light,  of  an  agreeable  smell,  and  of  a  brown 
color  spotted  with  yellow,  and  dissolves  readily 
in  the  mouth.  Vessels  manufactured  of  it  are 
said  to  impart  a  pleasant  smell  and  flavor  to 
any  liquids.  These  mountains  abound  also  with 
mineral  earths,  or  chalks  of  various  colors;  es- 
pecially two  kinds  of  ochre,  one  a  pale,  the  other 
a  bright  red,  like  vermilion ;  much  used  by  the 
Indians,  in  painting  their  bodies. 


)  I 


STAliVATloy. 


4D.1 


length 
it  wa3 
scanty 
several 

stream, 
mntaiii. 
ml  and 
keeping 
moun- 
fore  on 
the  fire 
ns  of  a 
ed.     It 
uselves, 
I  better 
mouth- 
id  alert, 
ountain, 
of  vol- 
iS  direc- 
to  be 
facture 
me  and 
brown 
readily 
it  are 
ivor   to 
Uo  with 
)rs;  es- 
\ie  other 
by  the 


About  noon,  tlie  travellers  reaclie<l  the  "  drains  ** 
and  broolcs  that  formed  the  head  waters  of  the 
river,  and  later  in  the  day,  descended  to  where 
the  main  body,  a  shallow  stream,  about  a  hundred 
and  sixty  yards  wide,  poured  through  its  mouutaia 
valley.     V 

Here  the  pooi  famishing  wanderers  had  expected 
to  find  buffalo  in  abundance,  and  had  fed  their 
hungry  hopes  during  their  scrambling  toil,  with 
the  thoughts  of  roasted  ribs,  juicy  humps,  and 
broiled  marrow  bones.  To  their  great  disappoint- 
ment, the  river  banks  were  deserted ;  a  few  old 
tracks,  showed  where  a  hurd  of  bulls  had  some 
time  before  passed  along,  but  not  a  horn  nor 
hump  was  to  be  seen  in  the  sterile  landscape.  A 
few  antelopes  looked  down  upon  them  from  the 
brow  of  a  crag,  but  flitted  away  out  of  sight  at 
the  least  approach  of  the  hunter. 

In  the  most  starving  mood  they  kept  for 
several  miles  further,  along  the  bank  of  the  river, 
seeking  for  "  beaver  signs."  Finding  some,  they 
encamped  in  the  vicinity,  and  Ben  Jones  imme- 
diately proceeded  to  set  the  trap.  They  had 
scarce  come  to  a  halt,  when  they  perceived  a  large 
smoke  at  some  distance  to  the  southwest.  The 
sight  was  hailed  with  joy,  for  they  trusted  it  might 
rise  from  some  Indian  camp,  where  they  could 
procure  something  to  eat,  and  the  dread  of  star- 
vation had  now  overcome  even  the  terror  of  the 
•Blackfeet.  Le  Clerc,  one  of  the  Canadians,  was 
Uistantly  dispatched  by  Mr.  Stuart,  to  recon- 
noitre ;  and  the  travellers  sat  up  till  a  late 
hour,    watching    and    listeniiig    for    his    retum. 


494 


ASTORIA. 


hoping  he  might  bring  them  food.  Midnight 
arrived,  but  Le  Clerc  did  not  make  his  appear- 
ance, and  they  laid  down  once  more  supperless 
to  sleep,  comforting  themselves  virith  the  hopes 
that  their  old  beaver  trap  might  furnish  them 
with  a  breakfast. 

At  daybreak  they  hastened  with  famished 
eagerness  to  the  trap.  They  found  in  it  the  fore 
paw  of  a  beaver,  the  sight  of  which  tantalized 
their  hunger,  and  added  to  their  dejection.  They 
resumed  their  journey  with  flagging  spirits,  but 
had  not  gone  far  when  they  perceived  Le  Clerc 
approaching  at  a  distance.  They  hastene(^  to 
meet  him,  in  hopes  of  tidings  of  good  cheer.  He 
tiad  none  to  give  them  ;  but  news  of  that  strange 
wanderer,  M'Lellan.  The  smoke  had  risen  fiom 
his  encampment,  which  took  fire  while  he  was  at 
a  little  distance  from  it  fishing.  Le  Clerc  found 
him  in  forlorn  condition.  His  fishing  had  been 
unsuccessful.  During  twelve  days  that  he  had 
been  wandering  alone  through  these  savage  moun 
tains,  he  had  found  scarce  anything  to  eat.  Pie 
had  been  ill,  wayworn,  sick  at  heart,  still  he  had 
kept  forward ;  but  now  his  strength  and  his  stub- 
bornness were  exhausted.  He  expressed  his 
satisfaction  at  hearing  that  Mr.  Stuart  and  his 
party  were  near,  and  said  he  would  wait  at  his 
camp  for  their  arrival,  in  hopes  they  would  give 
him  something  to  eat,  for  without  food  he  declared 
he  should  not  be  able  to  proceed  much  further. 

When  the  party  reached  the  place,  they  found 
the  poor  fellow  lying  on  a  parcel  of  withered 
giasS)  wasted  to  a  perfect  skeleton,  and  so  feeble 


1. 1 


A   HORRIBLE  PROPOSITION, 


495 


idnight 
ippear- 
»perles9 
hopes 
li  them 

imished 
the  foro 
ntalized 
They 
rits,  but 
je  Clero 
3ne(^    to 
3r.     He 
,  strange 
sen  from 
e  was  at 
re  found 
ad  been 
he  had 
rQ  moun 
at.     He 
he  had 
nis  stub- 
ssed   his 
and  his 
it  at  his 
uld  give 
declared 
further. 
y  found 
withered 
)0  feeble 


that  he  could  scarce  raise  his  head  or  speak. 
The  presence  of  his  old  comrades  seemed  to 
revive  him ;  but  they  had  no  food  to  give  him, 
for  they  themselves  were  almost  starving.  They 
urged  him  to  rise  and  accompany  them,  but  he 
shook  his  head.  It  was  all  in  vain,  he  said  ; 
there  was  no  prospect  of  their  getting  speedy 
relief,  and  without  it  he  should  perish  by  the 
way;  he  might  as  weU,  therefore,  stay  and  die 
where  he  was.  At  length,  after  much  persuasion, 
they  got  him  upon  his  legs ;  his  rifle  and  other 
effects  were  shared  among  them,  and  he  was 
cheered  and  aided  forward.  In  tliis  way  they 
proceeded  for  seventeen  miles,  over  a  level  plain 
of  sand,  until  seeing  a  few  antelopes  in  the  dis- 
tance, they  encamped  on  the  margin  of  a  small 
stream.  All  now  that  were  capable  of  the  exer- 
tion, turned  out  to  hunt  for  a  meal.  Their 
efforts  were  fruitless,  and  after  dark  they  returned 
to  their  camp,  famished  almost  to  desperation. 

As  they  were  preparing  for  the  third  time  to 
lay  down  to  sleep  without  a  mouthful  to  eat,  Le 
Clerc,  one  of  the  Canadians,  gaunt  and  wild  with 
hunger,  approached  Mr.  Stuart  with  his  gun  in 
his  hand.  "  It  was  all  in  vain,"  he  said,  "  to  at- 
tempt to  proceed  any  further  without  food.  They 
had  a  barren  plain  before  them,  three  or  four 
days*  journey  in  extent,  on  which  nothing  was  to 
be  procured.  They  must  all  perish  before  they 
could  get  to  the  end  of  it.  It  was  better,  there- 
fore, that  one  should  die  to  save  the  rest"  He 
proposed,  therefore,  that  they  should  cast  lots; 
adding,  as  au  inducement  for  Mr.  Stuart  to  assent 


j 


496 


ASTORIA. 


to  the  proposition,  that  he,  as  leader  of  the  party 
should  be  exempted. 

Mr.  Stuart  shuddered  at  the  horrible  proposi- 
tion, and  endeavored  to  reason  with  the  man,  but 
his  words  were  unavailing.  At  length,  snatching 
up  his  rifle,  he  threatened  to  shoot  him  on  the 
spot  if  he  persisted.  The  famished  wretch  dropped 
on  his  knees,  begged  pardon  in  the  most  abject 
terms,  and  promised  never  again  to  offend  him 
with  such  a  suggestion. 

Quiet  being  restored  to  the  forlorn  encamp- 
ment, each  one  sought  repose.  Mr.  Stuart,  how- 
ever, was  so  exhausted  by  the  agitation  of  the 
past  scene,  acting  upon  his  emaciated  frame,  that 
he  could  scarce  crawl  to  his  miserable  couch ; 
where,  notwithstanding  his  fatigues,  he  passed  a 
sleepless  night,  revolving  upon  their  dreary  situa- 
tion, and  the  desperate  prospect  before  them. 

Before  daylight  the  next  morning,  they  were 
up  and  on  their  way ;  they  had  nothing  to  detain 
them ;  no  breakfast  to  p  3pare,  and  to  linger  was 
to  perish.  They  proceeded,  however,  but  slowly, 
for  all  were  faint  and  weak.  Here  and  there 
they  passed  the  skulls  and  bones  of  buffaloes, 
which  showed  that  these  animals  must  have  been 
hunted  here  during  the  past  season ;  the  sight  of 
these  bones  served  only  to  mock  their  misery. 
After  travelling  about  nine  miles  along  the  plain, 
they  ascended  a  range  of  hills,  and  had  scarcely 
gone  two  miles  further,  when,  to  their  great  joy, 
they  discovered  "  an  old  run-down  buffalo  bull ;  ** 
the  laggard  probably  of  some  herd  that  had  been 
hunted    and   harassed   through    the    mountaiaSi 


A  SEASON   OF  FEASTING. 


497 


>  paity 

)ropo8i- 
lan,  but 
latching 
on  the 
iropped 
t  abject 
>.nd  him 

encamp- 
Tt,  how- 
i  of  the 
me,  that 
couch ; 
passed  a 
iry  situa- 
lem. 

jy  were 
^0  detain 
Lger  was 
|t  slowly, 
id  there 
luflfaloes, 
,ve  been 
sight  of 
misery, 
le  plain, 
scarcely 
[eat  joy, 
bull;'* 
id  been 
»untainsi 


Diey  now  all  stretched  themselves  out  to  encom- 
pass and  make  sure  of  diis  solitary  animal,  for 
their  lives  depended  upon  their  success.  After 
considerable  trouble  and  infinite  anxiety,  they  at 
length  succeeded  in  killing  him.  He  was  instantly 
flayed  and  cut  up,  and  so  ravenous  was  their 
himger,  that  they  devoured  some  of  the  flesh  raw. 
The  residue  they  carried  to  a  brook  near  by, 
where  they  encamped,  lit  a  fire,  and  began  to 
cook. 

Mr.  Stuart  was  fearful  that  in  their  famished 
stote  they  would  eat  to  excess  and  injure  them* 
selves.  He  caused  a  soup  to  be  made  of  some 
of  the  meat,  and  that  each  should  take  a  quantity 
of  it  as  a  prelude  to  his  supper.  This  may 
have  had  a  benefidal  effect,  for  though  they 
sat  up  the  greater  part  of  the  night,  cooking  and 
cramming,  no  one  sufiered  any  inconvenience. 

The  next  morning  the  feasting  was  resumed, 
and  about  mid-day,  feeling  somewhat  recruited 
and  refreshed,  they  set  out  on  their  journey 
with  renovated  spirits,  shaping  their  course  to- 
wards a  mountain,  the  summit  of  which  they 
saw  towering  in  the  east,  and  near  to  which 
they  expected  to  find  the  head  waters  of  the 
Missouri. 

As  they  proceeded,  they  continued  to  see  the 

skeletons  of  buffaloes  scattered  about  the  plain  in 

every  direction,  which  showed  that  there  had  been 

much  hunting  here  by  the  Indians  in  the  recent 

season.     Further  on  they  crossed  a  large  Indian 

trail  forming  a  deep  path,  about  fifteen  days  old, 

which  went   in  a   north   direction.      They  oon- 
32 


-9BII 


I' 


498 


ASTORIA. 


eluded  it  to  have  been  made  by  some  numeroui 
band  of  Crows,  who  had  hunted  in  this  country 
for  the  greater  part  of  the  summer. 

On  the  following  day  they  forded  a  stream  of 
considerable  magnitude,  with  banks  clodied  with 
pine  trees.  Among  these  they  found  the  traces 
of  a  large  Indian  camp,  which  had  evidently  been 
the  headquarters  of  a  hunting  expedition,  jfrom 
the  great  quantities  of  buffalo  bones  strewed 
about  the  neighborhood.  The  camp  had  appar- 
ently been  abandoned  about  a  month. 

In  the  centre  was  a  singular  lodge  one  hundred 
and  fifty  feet  in  circumference,  supported  by  the 
trunks  of  twenty  trees,  about  twelve  inches  in 
diameter  and  forty-four  feet  long.  Across  these 
were  laid  branches  of  pine  and  willow  trees,  so 
as  to  yield  a  tolerable  shade.  At  the  west  end, 
immediately  opposite  to  the  door,  three  bodies  lay 
interred  with  their  feet  towards  the  east.  At  the 
head  of  each  grave  was  a  branch  of  red  cedar 
firmly  planted  in  the  ground.  At  the  foot  was  a 
large  bufialo's  skull,  painted  black.  Savage  or- 
naments were  suspended  in  varions  parts  of  the 
edifice,  and  a  great  number  of  children's  mocca- 
sins. From  the  magnitude  of  this  building,  and 
the  time  and  labor  that  must  have  been  expended 
in  erecting  it,  the  bodies  which  it  contained  were 
probably  those  of  noted  warriors  and  hunters. 

The  next  day,  October  17th,  they  passed  two 
large  tributary  streams  of  the  Spanish  River. 
They  took  their  rise  in  the  Wind  River  Moun- 
tains, which  ranged  along  to  the  east,  stupendously 
high   and  rugged,  composed  of  vast   masses    of 


FRIENDLY  SNAKES. 


499 


meroui 
30Uiitry 

•earn  of 
ed  with 
B  traces 
tly  been 
m,  from 
strewed 
I  appar- 

hundred 
I  by  the 
nches  in 
OSS  these 
trees,  so 
west  end, 
)odie8  lay 
At  the 
•ed  cedar 
lOt  was  a 
tvage  or- 
-ts  of  the 
I's  mocca- 
idmg,  and 
expended 
led  were 
inters, 
tsed  two 
^h    River. 
er  Moun- 
lendously 
lasses    of 


black  rock,  almost  destitute  of  wood,  and  covered 
in  many  places  with  snow.  This  day  they  saw  a 
few  buffalo  bulls,  and  some  antelopes,  but  could 
not  kill  any ;  and  their  stock  of  provisions  began 
to  grow  scanty  as  weU  as  poor. 

On  the  18th,  after  crossing  a  mountain  ridge, 
and  traversing  a  plain,  they  waded  one  of  the 
branches  of  Spanish  Kiver,  and  on  ascending  its 
bank,  met  with  about  a  hundred  and  thirty  Snake 
Indians.  They  were  friendly  in  their  demeanor, 
and  conducted  them  to  their  encampment,  which 
was  about  three  miles  distant.  It  consisted  of 
about  forty  wigwams,  constructed  principally  of 
pine  branches.  The  Snakes,  like  most  of  their 
nation,  were  very  poor ;  the  marauding  Crows,  in 
their  late  excursion  through  the  country,  had 
picked  this  unlucky  band  to  the  very  bone,  carry- 
ing off  their  horses,  several  of  their  squaws,  and 
most  of  their  effects.  In  spite  of  their  poverty, 
they  were  hospitable  in  the  extreme,  and  made 
the  hungry  strangers  welcome  to  their  cabins.  A 
few  trinkets  procured  from  them  a  supply  of  buf- 
falo meat,  and  of  leather  for  moccasins,  of  which 
the  party  were  greatly  in  need.  The  most 
valuable  prize  obtained  from  them,  however,  waa 
a  horse  :  it  was  a  sorry  old  animal  in  truth,  but 
it  was  the  only  one  that  remained  to  the  poor 
fellows,  after  the  fell  swoop  of  the  Crows ;  yet 
this  they  were  prevailed  upon  to  part  with  to 
their  guests  for  a  pistol,  an  axe,  a  knife,  and  a 
few  other  trifling  articles. 

They  had  doleful  stories  to  tell  of  the  Crows, 
who  were  encamped  on  a  river  at  no  great  dis- 


■I  ! 


::  !;; 


ii 


500 


ASTO^TA. 


tanoe  to  the  east,  and  were  in  such  fort©  that 
they  darecl  not  venture  to  seek  any  satisfaction 
for  their  outrages,  or  to   get  back  a  horse    or 
fiquaw.     They  endeavored  to  excite  the  indigna- 
tion  of  their   visitors  by  accounts  of   robberies 
and  murders  committed  on  lonely  white  hunters 
and  trappers  by  Crows  and  Blackfeet     Some  of 
these  were  exaggerations  of  the  outrages  already 
mentioned,  sustained  by  some  of  the  scattered 
members  of  Mr.  Hunt's  expedition  ;  others  were 
in  all  probability  sheer  fabrications,  to  which  the 
Snakes  seem  to  have  been  a  little  prone.     Mr. 
Stuart  assured  them  that  the  day  was   not  far 
distant  when  the  whites  would  make  their  power 
to  be  felt  throughout  that  country,  and  take  signal 
vengeance  on  the  perpetrators  of  these  misdeeds. 
The  Snakes  expressed  great  joy  at  the  intelli- 
gence, and  offered  their  services  to  aid  the  righte- 
ous dause,  brightening  at  the  thoughts  of  taking 
the  field  with  such  potent  allies,  and  doubtless 
anticipating  their  turn  at    stealing   horses    and 
abducting  squaws.     Their  offers,  of  course,  were 
accepted ;  the  calumet  of  peace  was   produced, 
and  the  two  forlorn  powers  smoked  eternal  friend- 
ship  between  themselves,  and  vengeance  upon 
their  common  spoilers,  the  Grows. 


\e  that 
sfaction 
orse    or 
indigna- 
obberies 
hunters 
Some  of 
\  already 
scattered 
era  were 
hich  the 
ae.     Mr. 
not  far 
sir  power 
i,ke  signal 
misdeeds, 
le  intelli- 
lie  righte- 
of  taking 
doubtless 
irses    and 
.rse,  were 
produced, 
lal  friend- 
loe  upon 


CHAPTER  XLVUI. 

T  sunrise  on  the  following  morning 
(October  19th),  the  travellers  had  loaded 
their  old  horse  with  buffalo  meat,  suf- 
ficient for  five  days*  provisions,  and,  taking  leave 
of  their  new  allies,  the  poor,  but  hospitable 
Snakes,  set  forth  in  somewhat  better  spirits, 
though  the  increasing  cold  of  the  weather,  aud 
the  sight  of  the  snowy  mountains  which  they 
had  yet  to  traverse,  were  enough  to  chill  their 
very  hearts.  The  country  along  this  branch  of 
the  Spanish  River,  as  far  as  they  could  see,  was 
perfectly  level,  bounded  by  ranges  of  lofty  moun- 
tains, both  to  the  east  and  west.  They  proceeded 
about  three  miles  to  the  south,  where  they  came 
again  upon  the  large  trail  of  Crow  Indians,  which 
they  had  crossed  four  days  previously,  made,  no 
doubt,  by  the  same  marauding  band  that  had  plun- 
dered the  Snakes  ;  and  which,  according  to  the  ac- 
count of  the  latter,  was  now  encamped  on  a  stream 
to  the  eastward.  The  trail  kept  od  to  the  south* 
east,  and  was  so  well  beateu  by  horse  and  foot, 
that  they  supposed  at  least  a  hundred  lodges  had 
passed  along  it.  As  it  formed,  therefore,  a  con* 
Tonient  highway,  and  ran  in  a  proper  direction, 
Itbey  turned  into  it,  and  dstermined  to  keep  along 
it  as  far  as  safety  would  permit ;  as  the  Crow  en;> 


^1^ 


m 


502 


ASTORIA. 


campment  must  be  some  distance  off,  and  it  was 
not  likely  those  savages  would  return  upon  their 
steps.  They  travelled  forward,  therefore,  all  that 
day,  in  the  track  of  their  dangerous  predecessors, 
which  led  them  across  mountain  streams,  and  long 
ridges,  and  through  narrow  valleys,  all  tending 
generally  towards  the  southeast.  The  wind  blew 
coldly  from  the  northeast,  with  occasional  flurries 
of  snow,  which  made  them  encamp  early,  on  the 
sheltered  banks  of  a  brook.  The  two  Canadians, 
ValMe  and  Le  Clerc,  killed  a  youn^  buffalo  bull 
in  the  evening,  which  was  in  good  condition,  and 
afforded  them  a  plentiful  supply  of  fresh  beef. 
They  loaded  their  spits,  therefore,  and  crammed 
their  camp  kettle  with  meat,  and  while  the  wind 
whistled,  and  the  snow  whirled  around  them, 
huddled  round  a  rousing  fire,  basked  in  its  warmth, 
and  comforted  both  soul  and  body  with  a  hearty 
and  invigorating  meal.  No  enjoyments  have 
greater  zest  than  t^^ese,  snatched  in  the  very  midst 
of  difficulty  and  danger ;  and  it  is  probable  the 
poor  wayworn  and  weather-beaten  travellers  rel- 
ished these  creature  comforts  the  more  highly 
from  the  surrounding  desolation,  and  the  danger- 
ous proximity  of  the  Crows. 

The  snow  which  had  fallen  in  the  night  made 
it  late  in  the  morning  before  the  party  loaded 
their  solitary  pack-horse,  and  resumed  their  march. 
They  had  not  gone  far  before  the  Crow  trace  which 
they  were  following  changed  its  direction,  and 
bore  to  the  north  of  east.  They  had  already 
begun  to  feel  themselves  on  dangerous  ground  in 
keeping  along  it,  as  they  might  be  descried  t>j 


SALT  srjimGS. 


508 


it  was 

n  their 

all  that 

cessors, 

nd  long 

tending     • 

id  blew 
flurries 

,  on  the 

nadians, 

alo  bull 

[ion,  and 

ish  beef. 

jrammed 

the  wind 

id   them, 
warmth, 

a  hearty 
ts  have 
ry  midst 
able  the 
Hers  rel- 

re  highly 
danger- 

]r\\t  made 
[y  loaded 
lir  march, 
ce  which 
tion,  and 
already 
;round  in 
icried  by 


Bome  scouts  and  spies  of  that  race  of  Ishmaelites, 
whose  predatory  life  required  them  to  be  con- 
stantly on  the  alert.  On  seeing  the  trace  turn  so 
much  to  the  north,  therefore,  they  abandoned  it, 
and  kept  on  their  course  to  the  southeast  for  eigh- 
teen miles,  through  a  beautifully  undulating 
country,  having  the  main  chain  of  mountain''  on 
the  left,  and  a  considerably  elevated  ridge  on  the 
right.  Here  the  mountain  ridge  which  divides 
"Wind  River  from  the  head  waters  of  the  Colum- 
bia and  Spanish  Rivers,  end'  abruptly,  and  wind- 
ing to  the  north  of  east,  becomes  the  dividing 
barrier  between  a  branch  of  the  Big  Horn  and 
Cheyenne  Rivers,  and  those  head  waters  which 
flow  into  the  Missouri  below  the  Sioux  country. 

The  ridge  which  lay  on  the  right  of  the  trav- 
ellers having  now  become  very  low,  they  passed 
over  it,  and  came  into  a  level  plain,  about  ten 
miles  in  circumference,  and  incrusted  to  the  depth 
of  a  foot  or  eighteen  inches  with  salt  as  white  a^ 
snow.  This  is  furnished  by  nuniierous  salt  springs 
of  limpid  water,  which  are  continually  welling  up, 
overflowing  their  borders,  and  forming  beautiful 
crystallizations.  The  Indian  tribes  of  the  interior 
are  excessively  fond  of  this  salt,  and  repair  to  the 
valley  to  collect  it,  but  it  is  held  in  distaste  by  the 
tribes  of  the  sea-coast,  who  will  eat  nothing  that 
has  been  cured  or  reasoned  by  it. 

This  evening  they  encamped  on  the  banks  of  a 
•mall  stream,  in  the  open  prairie.  The  northeast 
wind  was  keen  and  cutting ;  they  had  nothing 
wherewith  to  make  a  fire,  but  a  scanty  growth 
of  sage,  or  wormwood,  and   were  fain  to  wrap 


504 


ASTORIA. 


V    i 


ml 


i 


tbemselves  up  in  tbeir  blankets,  and  huddle  them** 
selves  in  their  "  nests/'  at  an  early  hour.  In  the 
course  of  the  evening,  Mr,  M'Lellan,  who  had 
now  regained  his  strength,  killed  a  bufiTalo,  but  it 
was  some  distance  from  the  camp,  and  they  post- 
poned supplying  themselves  from  the  carcass  until 
the  ioUowing  morning. 

The  next  day  (October  2l8t),  the  cold  continued, 
accompan'.ed  by  snow.  Thay  set  forward  on  their 
bleak  and  toilsome  way^  keeping  to  the  east-north- 
east, towards  the  lofty,  summit  of  &  mountain, 
which  it  was  necessaiy  for  them  to  cross.  Befoi'e 
they  reached  its  base  they  passed  another  large 
trail,,  steering  a  little  to  the  right  of  the  point  of 
the  mountain,  This  they  presumed  to  have  been 
made  by  another  band  of  Crows,  who  had  prob- 
ably been  hr^iting  lower  down  on  the  Spanish 
Eiver. 

The  severity  of  the  weather  compelled  them 
to  encamp  at  the  end  of  fifteen  miles,  on  the  skirt9 
of  the  mountain,  where  they  found  sufficient  dry 
aspen  trees  to  supply  them  with  fire,  but  they 
sought  in  vain  about  the  neighborhood  for  a  spring 
or  rill  of  water, 

At  daybreak  they  were  up  and  on  the  march, 
scrambling  up  the  mountain  side  for  the  distance 
of  eight  painful  miles.  From  the  casual  hints 
given  in  the  travelling  memoranda  of  Mr.  Stuart, 
this  mountain  would  seem  to  offer  a  rich  field  of 
speculation  for  the  geologist.  Here  was  a  plain 
three  miles  in  diameter,  strewed  with  pumice 
stones  and  other  volcanic  reliques,  with  a  lake  iu 
the  centre,  occupying  what  had  probably  been  the 


WINTRY  PLAINS. 


505 


,le  lhon»* 
In  the 
vho  had 
lo,  but  it 
iey  po8t« 
!aa8  until 

ontinuedf 
\  on  their 
ftst-noith- 
rnouutain, 

Before 
her  large 
}  point  of 
have  been 
had  prob- 

Spanisb 

lied  them 
the  skirts 
cient  dry 
but  they 
r  a  spring 

he  march, 
e  distance 
3ual  hints 
[r.  Stuart, 
field  of 
as  a  plain 
,h  pumice 
a  lake  iu 
been  the 


the  crater.     Here  were  also,  in  some  places,  de- 
posits of  marine  shells,  indicating  that  this  moun 
tain  crest  hud  at  some  remote  period  been  below 
the  waves. 

After  pausing  to  repose,  and  ta  enjoy  these 
grand  but  savage  and  awful  scenes,  they  began  to 
descend  the  eastern  side  of  the  mountain.  The 
descent  was  rugged  and  romantic,  along  deep 
ravines  and  defiles,  overhung  with  crags  and 
cliffs,  among  which  they  beheld  numbers  of  the 
ahsahta  or  bighorn,  skipping  fearlessly  from  rock 
to  rock.  Two  of  them  they  succeeded  in  bring- 
ing down  with  their  rifles,  as  they  peered  fear- 
lessly from  the  brow  of  their  airy  precipices. 

Arrived  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  the  trav- 
ellers found  a  rill  of  water  oozing  out  of  the 
earth,  and  resembling  in  look  and  taste,  the  water 
of  the  Missouri.  Here  they  encamped  for  the 
night,  and  supped  sumptuously  upon  their  moun- 
tain mutton,  which  they  found  in  good  condition, 
and  extremely  well  tasted. 

The  morning  was  bright,  and  intensely  cold. 
Early  in  the  day  they  came  upon  a  stream  run- 
ning to  the  east,  between  low  hills  of  bluish 
earth,  strongly  impregnated  with  copperas.  Mn 
Stuart  supposed  this  to  be  one  of  the  head 
waters  of  the  Missouri,  and  determined  to  fol- 
low its  banks.  After  a  march  of  twenty-six 
miles,  however,  he  arrived  at  the  summit  of  a 
hill,  the  prospect  of  which  induced  him  to  alter 
bis  intention.  He  beheld,  in  every  direction  south 
of  east,  a  vast  plain,  bounded  only  by  the  horizon, 
through  which  wandered  the  stream  iu  question. 


1^' 


506 


ASTORIA. 


in  a  south-southeast  direction.  It  could  not, 
therefore,  be  a  branch  of  tho  Missouri.  He  now 
gave  up  all  idea  of  taking  the  stream  for  his 
guide,  and  shaped  his  course  towards  a  range  of 
mountains  in  the  east,  about  sixty  miles  distant, 
near  which  he  hoped  to  find  another  stream. 

The  weather  was  now  so  severe,  and  the  hard- 
ships of  travelling  so  great,  that  he  resolved  to 
halt  for  the  winter,  at  the  first  eligible  place. 
That  night  they  had  to  encamp  on  the  open  prai- 
rie, near  a  scanty  pool  of  water,  and  without  any 
wood  to  make  a  fire.  The  northeast  wind  blew 
keenly  across  the  naked  waste,  and  they  were 
fain  to  decamp  from  their  inhospitable  bivouac 
before  the  dawn. 

For  two  days  they  kept  on  in  an  eastward  di- 
rection, against  wintry  blasts  and  occasional  snow 
storms.  They  suffered,  also,  from  scarcity  of 
water,  having  occasionally  to  use  melted  snow ; 
this,  with  the  want  of  pasturage,  reduced  their 
old  pack-horse  sadly.  They  saw  many  tracks  of 
buffalo,  and  some  few  bulls,  which,  however,  got 
the  wind  of  them,  and  scampered  off. 

On  the  26th  of  October,  they  steered  east- 
northeast,  for  a  wooded  ravine  in  a  mountain,  at 
a  small  distance  from  the  base  of  which,  to  their 
great  joy,  they  discovered  an  abundant  stream, 
running  between  willowed  banks.  Here  they 
halted  for  the  night,  and  Ben  Jones  having  luck- 
ily trapped  a  beaver,  and  killed  two  buffalo  bulls, 
they  remained  all  the  next  day  encamped,  feast- 
ing and  reposing,  and  allowing  their  jaded  horse 
to  rest  from  his  labors. 


STRIKING  SCENES. 


507 


tnld  not, 
He  now 
i  for  his 
range  of 
8  distant, 
am. 

the  hard- 
aolved  to 
tie  place, 
•pen  prai- 
hont  any 
ind  blew 
ley  were 
s  bivouac 

tward  di- 
»nal  8now 
ircity  of 
jd  snow ; 
ced  their 
tracks  of 
rever,  got 

red  east- 
intain,  at 
,  to  their 
t  stream, 
ere  they 
ng  luck- 
alo  bulls, 
ed,  feast- 
ed horse 


The  little  stream  on  which  they  were  en- 
camped, was  one  of  the  head  waters  of  the  Platte 
River,  which  flows  into  the  Missouri ;  it  was,  in 
fact,  *he  northern  fork,  or  brunch  of  that  river, 
though  this  the  travellers  did  not  discover  until 
long  afterwards.  Pursuing  the  course  of  this 
stream  for  about  twenty  miles,  they  came  to 
where  it  forced  a  passage  through  a  range  of 
high  hills,  covered  with  cedars,  into  an  extensive 
low  country,  affording  excellent  pasture  to  nu- 
merous herds  of  buffalo.  Here  they  killed  three 
cows,  which  were  the  first  they  had  been  able  to 
get,  having  hitherto  had  to  content  themselves 
with  bull  beef,  which  at  this  season  of  the  year  is 
very  poor.  The  hump  meat  afforded  them  a  re- 
past fit  for  an  epicure. 

Late  on  the  afternoon  of  the  30th,  they  came 
to  where  the  stream,  now  increased  to  a  consider- 
able size,  poured  along  in  a  ravine  between  pre- 
cipices of  red  stone,  two  hundred  feet  in  height. 
For  some  distance  it  dashed  along,  over  huge 
masses  of  rock,  with  foaming  violence,  as  if  ex- 
asperated by  being  compressed  into  so  narrow  a 
channel,  and  at  length  leaped  down  a  chasm  that 
looked  dark  and  frightful  in  the  gathering  twi- 
light. 

For  a  part  of  the  next  day,  the  wild  river,  in 
its  capricious  wanderings,  led  them  through  a  va- 
riety of  striking  scenes.  At  one  time  they  were 
upon  high  plains,  like  platforms  among  the  moun- 
tains, with  herds  of  buffaloes  rofiming  about  them  ; 
at  another,  among  rude  rocky  defiles,  broken  into 
dififs  and  precipices,  where  the  black-tailed  deer 


508 


AS TOR  U. 


I;   I 


bounded  off  amoHg  the  crags,  and   the  bighorn 
basked  in  the  sunny  brow  of  the  precipice. 

In  the  after  part  of  the  day,  they  came  to  an- 
other scene,  surpassing  in  savage  grandeur  those 
already  described.  They  had  been  travelling  for 
some  distance  through  a  pass  of  the  mountains, 
keeping  parallel  with  the  river,  as  it  roared  along, 
out  of  sight,  through  a  deep  ravine.  Sometimes 
their  devious  path  approached  the  margin  of  cliffs 
below  which  the  river  foamed,  and  boiled,  and 
whb'led  among  the  masses  of  rock  that  had  fallen 
into  its  channel.  As  they  crept  cautiously  on, 
leading  their  solitary  pack-horse  along  these  giddy 
heights,  they  all  at  once  came  to  where  the  river 
thundered  6own  a  succession  of  precipices,  throw- 
ing up  clouds  of  spray,  and  making  a  prodigious 
din  and  uproar.  The  travellers  remained,  for  a 
time,  gazing  with  mingled  awe  and  delight,  at 
this  furious  cataract,  to  which  Mr.  Stuart  gave, 
from  the  color  of  the  impending  rocks,  the  name 
of  "  The  Fiery  Narrows." 


I 


»ighora 

to  an- 
•  those 
ing  for 
lutains, 
I  along, 
aetimeA 
of  cliffs 
3(1,  and 
d  falleii 
isly  on, 
le  giddy 
le  river 
,  throw- 
Ddigious 
d,  for  a 
igbt,  at 
t  gave, 
le  name 


CHAPTER  XLIX. 

[HE  travellers  encamped  for  the  night  on 
the  banks  of  the  river  below  the  cata- 
ract. The  night  was  cold,  with  partial 
showers  of  rain  and  sleet.  The  morning  dawned 
gloomily,  the  skies  were  sullen  and  overcast,  and 
threatened  further  storms  ;  but  the  little  band  re- 
sumed their  journey,  in  defiance  of  the  weather. 
The  increasing  rigor  of  the  season,  however, 
which  makes  itself  felt  early  in  these  mountainous 
regions,  and  on  these  naked  and  elevated  plains, 
brought  them  to  a  pause,  and  a  serious  delibera- 
tion, after  they  had  descended  about  thirty  miles 
further  along  the  course  of  the  river. 

All  were  convinced  that  it  was  in  vain  to  at- 
tempt to  accomplish  their  journey  on  foot  at  thid 
inclement  season.  They  had  still  many  hundred 
miles  to  traverse  before  they  should  reach  the 
main  course  of  the  Missouri,  and  their  route 
would  lay  over  immense  prairies,  naked  and 
bleak,  and  destitute  of  fuel.  The  question  then 
Vvas,  where  to  choose  their  wintering  place,  and 
whether  or  not  to  proceed  further  down  the  river. 
They  had  at  first  imagined  it  to  be  one  of  the 
head  waters,  or  tributary  streams,  of  the  Mis- 
Bouri.     Afterwards  they  had  believed  it  to  be  the 


510 


ASTORIA. 


I 


\¥\ 


Rapid,  or  Qiii'court  River,  in  which  opinion  they 
had  not  come  nearer  to  the  truth  ;  they  now, 
however,  were  persuaded,  with  equal  fallacy,  by 
its  inclining  somewhat  to  the  north  of  east,  that 
it  was  the  Cheyenne.  If  so,  by  continuing  down 
it  much  further  they  must  arrive  among  the  In- 
dians, from  whom  the  river  takes  its  name. 
Among  these  they  would  be  sure  to  meet  some 
of  the  Sioux  tribe.  These  would  apprise  their 
relatives,  the  piratical  Sioux  of  the  Missouri,  of 
the  approach  of  a  band  of  white  traders  ;  so  that, 
in  the  spring  time,  they  would  be  likely  to  be 
waylaid  and  robbed  on  their  way  down  the  river, 
by  some  party  in  ambush  upon  its*  banks. 

Even  should  this  prove  to  be  the  Quicourt  or 
Rapid  River,  it  would  not  be  prudent  to  winter 
much  further  down  upon  its  banks,  as,  though 
they  might  be  out  of  the  range  of  the  Sioux,  they 
would  be  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  Poncas,  a 
tribe  nearly  as  dangerous.  It  was  resolved, 
therefore,  since  they  must  winter  somewhere  on 
this  side  of  the  Missouri,  to  descend  no  lower, 
but  to  keep  up  in  these  solitary  regions,  where 
they  would  be  in  no  danger  of  molestation. 

They  were  brought  the  more  promptly  and 
unanimously  to  this  decision,  by  coming  upon  an 
excellent  wintering  place,  that  promised  every- 
thing requisite  for  their  comfort.  It  was  on  a 
fine  bend  of  the  river,  just  below  where  it 
issued  out  from  among  a  ridge  of  mountains,  and 
bent  towards  the  northeast.  Here  was  a  beau- 
tiful low  point  of  land,  covered  by  cctton-wood, 
and  surrounded  by  a  thick  growth  of  willow,  8c 


A    WINTERING  PLACE. 


511 


I  they 
now, 
cy,  by 
it,  that 
r  down 

he  In- 
name. 
t  some 
e  their 
>uri,  of 
so  that, 
r  to  be 
e  river, 

court  or 
I  winter 
I  thongh 
ux,  they 
incas,    a 
esolved, 
lere  on 
lower, 
where 

1. 

tly   and 
ipon  an 
every- 
|as  on  a 
^here    it 
lins,  and 
a  beau- 
)n-wood, 
lillow,  se- 


as to  yield  both  shelter  and  fuel,  as  well  as  ma- 
terials for  building.  The  river  swept  by  in  a 
strong  current,  about  a  hundred  and  fifty  yards 
wide.  To  the  southeast  were  mountains  of  mod« 
erate  height,  the  nearest  about  two  miles  off, 
but  the  whole  chain  ranging  to  the  east,  south, 
and  southwest,  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach. 
Their  summits  were  crowned  with  extensive 
tracts  of  pitch  pine,  checkered  with  small  patches 
of  the  quivering  aspen.  Lower  down  were  thick 
forests  of  firs  and  red  cedars,  growing  out  in 
many  places  from  the  very  fissures  of  the  rocks. 
The  mountains  were  broken  and  precipitous,  with 
huge  bluffs  protruding  from  among  the  forests. 
Their  rocky  recesses,  and  beetling  cliffs,  afforded 
retreats  to  innumerable  flocks  of  the  bighorn, 
while  their  woody  summits  and  ravines  abounded 
with  bears  and  black-tailed  deer.  These,  with 
the  numerous  herds  of  buffalo  that  ranged  the 
lower  grounds  along  the  river,  promised  the 
travellers  abundant  cheer  in  their  winter  quar- 
ters. 

On  the  2d  of  November,  therefore,  they  pitched 
their  camp  for  the  winter,  on  the  woody  point, 
and  their  first  thought  was  to  obtain  a  supply  of 
provisions.  Ben  Jones  and  the  two  Canadians 
accordingly  sallied  forth,  accompanied  by  two 
others  of  the  party,  leaving  but  one  to  watch 
the  camp.  Their  hunting  was  uncommonly  suc- 
cessful. In  the  course  of  two  days,  they  killed 
ihirty-two  buffaloes,  and  collected  their  meat  on 
the  margin  of  a  small  brook,  about  a  mile  distant. 
Fortunately,  a  severe  frost  froze  the  river,  so  that 


I: 


m 


""id 


'i«i'«  Mil- 

m  ^  k 


512 


ASTORIA. 


the  meat  was  easily  transported  to  the  encamp* 
nient.  On  a  succeeding  day,  a  herd  of  buffalo 
came  trampling  through  the  woody  bottom  on  the 
river  banks,  and  fifteen  more  were  killed. 

It  was  soon  discovered,  however,  that  there 
was  game  of  a  more  dangerous  nature  in  the 
neighborhood.  On  one  occasion,  Mr.  Crooks  had 
wandered  about  a  mile  from  the  camp,  and  had 
ascended  a  small  hill  commanding  a  view  of  the 
river.  He  was  without  his  rifle,  a  rare  circum- 
stance, for  in  these  wild  regions,  where  one  may 
put  up  a  wild  animal,  or  a  wild  Indian,  at  every 
turn,  it  is  customary  never  to  stir  from  the  o^imp- 
fire  unarmed.  The  hill  where  he  stood  over^ 
looked  the  place  where  the  massacre  of  the 
buffalo  had  taken  place.  As  he  was  looking 
around  on  the  prospect,  his  eye  was  caught  by 
an  object  below,  moving  directly  towards  him* 
To  his  dismay,  he  discovered  it  to  be  a  grizzly 
bear,  with  two  cubs.  There  was  no  tree  at  hand 
into  which  he  could  climb ;  to  run,  would  only 
be  to  provoke  pursuit,  and  he  should  soon  be  over- 
taken. He  threw  himself  on  the  ground,  there- 
fore, and  lay  motionless,  watching  the  movements 
of  the  animal  with  intense  anxiety.  It  con- 
tinued to  advance  until  at  the  foot  of  the  hill, 
when  it  turned,  and  made  into  the  woods,  having 
probably  gorged  itself  with  buffalo  flesh.  Mr. 
Crooks  made  all  haste  back  to  the  camp,  rejoicing 
at  his  escape,  and  determining  never  to  stir  out 
again  without  his  rifle.  A  few  days  after  this 
circumstance,  a  grizzly  bear  was  shot  in  th« 
neighborhood,  by  Mr.  Miller. 


!•  i 


COMFORTABLE   QUARTERS. 


513 


camp* 
>afraIo 
on  the 

there 

in  the 

ks  had 

id  had 

of  the 

jircum- 

le  may 

;  every 

I  o^.mp- 

l  over- 
of  the 

looking 

ight  by 

ds  himn 
grizzly 

at  hand 
Id  only 
le  over- 
there - 
ements 
lit   con- 
tie   hill, 
having 
Mr. 
[eioicing 
jtir  out 
ller  this 
in  th« 


As  the  slaughter  of  so  many  buffaloes  had 
provided  the  party  with  beef  for  the  winter,  in 
case  they  met  with  no  further  supply,  they  now 
set  to  work,  heart  and  hand,  to  build  a  comfort- 
able wigwam.  In  a  little  while  the  woody  prom- 
ontory rang  with  the  unwonted  sound  of  the 
axe.  Some  of  its  lofty  trees  were  laid  low,  and 
by  the  second  evening  the  cabin  was  complete. 
It  was  eight  feet  wide,  and  eighteen  feet  long. 
The  walls  were  six  feet  high,  and  the  whole 
was  covered  with  buffalo  skins.  The  fireplace 
was  in  the  centre,  and  the  smoke  found  its  way 
out  by  a  hole  in  the  roof. 

The  hunters  were  next  sent  out  to  procure 
deer-skins  for  garments,  moccasins,  and  other 
purposes.  They  made  the  mountains  echo  with 
their  rifles,  and,  in  the  course  of  two  days'  hunt- 
ing, killed  twenty-eight  bighorns  and  black-tailed 
d«er. 

Th*^  party  now  reveled  in  abundance.  After 
all  that  they  had  suffered  from  hunger,  cold, 
fatigue  and  watchfulness ;  after  all  their  perils 
frotn  treacherous  and  Savage  men,  they  exulted 
in  tiie  snugness  and  security  of  their  isolated 
cabin,  hidden,  as  they  thought,  even  from  the 
prying  eyes  of  Indian  scouts,  and  stored  with 
creature  comforts ;  and  they  looked  forward  to  a 
winter  of-  peace  and  quietness ;  of  roasting,  arid 
boiling,  and  broiling,  and  feasting  upon  venison, 
and  mountain  mutton,  and  bear's  meat,  and  mar- 
row bones,  and  buffalo  humps,  and  other  hunter's 
dainties,  and  of  dozing  and  reposing  round  their 

fire,  and  gossiping   over   past   dangers   and    ad- 
93 


;l  i 


li: 


II  il!!! 


m  i 


Mlii 


MA 


ASTORIA, 


ventures,  and  telling  long  hunting  stories,  until 
spring  should  return  ;  when  they  would  make 
caaoes  of  buffalo  skins  and  float  themselves  dowu 
the  river. 

From  such  halcyon  drea.iis,  ihey  were  startled 
one  morning,  at  daybreak,  by  a  savage  yell. 
They  started  up  and  seized  their  rifles..  The 
yell  was  repeated  by  two  or  three  voices. 
Cautiously  peeping  out,  they  beheld,  to  their  dis- 
may, several  Indian  warriors  among  the  trees,  all 
armed  and  painted  in  warlike  style  ;  being  evi- 
dently bent  on  some  hostile  purpose. 

Miller  changed  countenance  as  he  regarded 
them.  "  We  are  in  trouble,"  said  he,  "  these 
are  some  of  the  rascally  Arapahays  that  robbed 
me  last  year."  Not  a  word  was  uttered  by  the 
rest  of  the  party,  but  they  silently  slung  their 
powder  horns  and  ball  pouches,  and  prepared  for 
battle.  M'Lellan,  who  had  taken  his  gun  to 
pieces  the  evening  before,  put  it  together  in  all 
haste.  He  proposed  that  they  should  break  out 
the  clay  from  between  the  logs,  so  as  to  be  able 
to  fire  upon  the  enemy. 

**  Not  yet,"  replied  Stuart ;  "  it  will  not  do  to 
show  fear  or  distrust ;  we  must  first*  hold  a  par- 
ley. Some  one  must  go  out  and  meet  them  as  a 
friend." 

Who  was  to  undertake  the  task  I  It  was  full  of 
peril,  as  the  envoy  might  be  shot  down  at  the 
threshold. 

"  The  leader  of  a  party,"  said  Miller,  **  always 
takes  the  advance." 

Good  !  "  replied  Stuart ;  <'  I  am  ready."     He 


u 


DANGEROUS   VISITORS. 


515 


3,  until 

make 

3  down 

startled 
re  yell. 
;.,  The 
voices, 
leir  dis- 
rees,  all 
ing  evi- 

regarded 
"  these 

t  robbed 

I  by  the 
their 

ared  for 
gun  to 
in   all 

ireak  out 
be  able 

lot  do  to 
a  par- 
tem as  a 

iS  full  of 
at  the 

always 


i> 


He 


immediately  went  forth  ;  one  of  tlie  Canadians 
followed  him;  t>'3  rest  of  the  party  remained 
in  the  garrison,  to  keep  the  savages  in  check. 

Stuart  advanced  holding  his  rifle  in  one  hand, 
rtud  extending  the  other  to  the  savage  that  ap- 
peared to  be  the  chief.  The  latter  stepped  for- 
ward and  took  it ;  his  men  followed  his  example, 
and  all  shook  hands  with  Stuart,  in  token  of  friend- 
ship. They  now  explained  their  errand.  They 
were  a  war  party  of  Arapahay  braves.  Their 
village  lay  on  a  stream  several  days*  journey  to 
the  eastward.  It  had  been  attacked  and  ravaged 
during  their  absence,  by  a  band  of  Crows,  who 
had  carried  off  several  of  their  women,  and  most 
of  thei."  horses.  They  were  in  quest  of  ven- 
geance. For  sixteen  days  they  had  been  track- 
ing the  Crows  about  the  mountains,  but  had  not 
yet  come  upon  them.  .In  the  meantime,  they 
had  met  with  scarcely  any  game,  and  were  half 
famished.  About  two  days  previously,  they  had 
heard  the  report  of  fire-arms  among  the  moun- 
tains, and  on  searching  in  the  direction  of  the 
sound,  had  come  to  a  place  where  a  deer  had  been 
killed.  They  had  immediately  put  themselves 
upon  the  track  of  the  hunters,  and  by  following  it 
up,  had  arrived  at  the  cabin. 

Mr.  Stuart  now  invited  the  chief  and  another, 
who  appeared  to  be  his  lieutenant,  into  the  hut, 
out  made  signs  that  no  one  else  was  to  enter. 
The  rest  halted  at  the  door ;  others  came  strag- 
gling up,  until  the  whole  party,  to  the  number 
of  twenty-three,  were  gathered  before  the  hut. 
They  were  armed  with  bows  and  arrows,  toma<* 


ii!i^ 


Hill  :1 

!:! 


li,|l»  iiM 


uk 


516 


ASTORIA. 


hawks  and  scalping  knives,  and  some  fuw  with 
guns.  All  were  painted  and  dressed  for  war, 
and  had  a  wild  and  fierce  appearance.  Mr.  Mil- 
ler recognized  arnon^  th'^in  some  of  the  very 
fellows  who  h^  i  r  >ud  liim  in  the  preceding 
year;  and  put  l^h  eoi  rades  upon  their  guard. 
Every  man  stood  uiy  tr  resist  the  first  act  of 
hostility  ;  the  savages,  howe  zer,  conducted  them- 
selves peaceably,  and  showed  none  of  that  swag- 
gering arrogance  which  a  war  party  is  apt  to 
assume. 

On  entering  the  hut  the  chief  and  his  lieu- 
tenant cast  a  wistful  look  at  the  rafters,  laden 
with  venison  and  buffalo  meat.  Mr.  Stuart 
made  a  merit  of  necessity,  and  invited  them  to 
help  themselves.  They  did  not  wait  to  be 
pressed.  The  rafters  were  soon  eased  of  their 
burden ;  venison  and  beef  were  passed  out  to 
the  crew  before  the  door,  and  a  scene  of  gorman- 
dizing commenced,  of  which  few  can  have  an 
idea,  who  have  not  witnessed  the  gastronomic 
powers  of  an  Indian,  after  an  interval  of  fasting. 
This  was  kept  up  throughout  the  day ;  they 
paused  now  and  then,  it  is  true,  for  a  brief  inter- 
val, but  only  to  return  to  the  charge  with  re- 
newed ardor.  The  chief  and  the  lieutenant  sur- 
passed all  the  rest  in  the  vigor  and  perseverance 
of  their  attacks;  as  if  from  their  station  they 
were  bound  to  signalize  themselves  in  all  on- 
slaughts. Mr.  Stuart  kept  them  well  supplied 
with  choice  bits,  for  it  was  his  policy  to  over- 
feed them,  and  keep  them  from  leaving  the  hut, 
where  they  served  as  hostages  for  the  good  con- 


M 


INDIAN   VORACITY, 


617 


with 
war, 

.  Mil- 
very 

ceding 

guard. 

act  of 
them- 
swag- 

apt  to 

8  lieu- 
,  laden 
Stuart 
hem  to 
to   be 
>f  their 
out  to 
ontian- 
ftve  an 
onomic 
fasting. 
';  they 
inter- 
ith  re- 
nt sur- 
erance 
n  they 
all  on- 
|upplicd 
over- 
he  hut, 
con- 


"jluct  of  their  followers.  Once,  only,  in  th« 
course  of  the  day,  did  the  chief  sally  forth.  Mr 
Stuart  and  one  of  his  men  accompanied  him, 
armed  with  their  rifles,  but  without  betraying  any 
distrust.  The  chieflain  soon  returned,  and  re- 
newed his  attack  upon  the  larder.  In  a  word,  he 
and  his  worthy  coadjutor,  the  lieutenant,  ate  until 
they  were  both  stupefied. 

Towards  evening  the  Indians  made  their  prep- 
arations for  the  night  according  to  the  practicr 
of  war  parties.  Those  outside  of  the  hut  threw 
up  two  breastworks,  into  which  they  retired  f 
a  tolerably  early  hour,  and  slept  like  overfed 
hounds.  As  to  the  chief  and  his  lieutenant, 
they  passed  the  night  in  the  hut,  in  the  course 
of  which,  they,  two  or  three  times,  got  up  to  eat. 
The  travellers  took  turns,  one  at  a  time,  to 
mount  guard  until  the  morning. 

Scarce  had  the  day  dawned,  when  the  gor- 
mandizing was  renewed  by  the  whole  band,  and 
carried  on  with  surprising  vigor  until  ten  o'clock, 
when  all  prepared  to  depart.  They  had  six 
days'  journey  yet  to  make,  they  said,  before  they 
should  come  up  with  the  Crows,  who,  they  un- 
derstood, were  encamped  on  a  river  to  the  north- 
ward. Their  way  lay  through  a  hungry  coun- 
try where  there  was  no  game  ;  they  would,  more- 
over, have  but  little  time  to  hunt;  they,  there- 
fore, craved  a  small  supply  of  provisions  for 
their  journey.  Mr.  Stuart  again  invited  them 
to  help  themselves.  They  did  so  with  keen 
. forethought,  loading  themselves  with  the  choicest 
parts  of  tiie  meat,  and  leaving  the  late  plente« 


'■*>; 


Jd ^ 


HM! 


1 1 :'; 


i  II  il  illl 

Umf. 


618 


ASTORIA. 


3U8  larder  Fk/  gone  in  a  consumption.  Their 
next  request  whs  for  a  supply  of  ammunition, 
having  guns,  but  no  powder  and  ball.  They 
promised  to  pay  magnificently  out  of  the  spcrils 
of  their  foray.  "  We  are  poor  now,"  said  they, 
**  and  are  obliged  to  go  on  foot,  but  we  shall  soon 
come  back  laden  with  booty,  and  all  mounted 
on  horseback,  with  scalps  hanging  at  our  bri- 
dles. We  will  then  give  each  of  you  a  horse  to 
keep  you  from  being  tired  on  your  journey." 

**  Well,"  said  Mr.  Stuart,  '*  when  you  bring 
the  horses,  you  shall  have  the  ammunition,  but 
not  before."  The  Indians  saw  by  his  determined 
tone,  chat  all  further  entreaty  would  be  unavail- 
ing, so  they  desisted,  with  a  good-humored  laugh, 
and  went  off  exceedingly  well  freighted,  both 
within  and  without,  promising  to  be  back  again 
in  the  course  of  a  fortnight. 

No  sooner  were  they  out  of  hearing,  than  tho 
luckless  travellers  held  another  council.  Tho  se* 
curity  of  their  cabin  was  at  an  end,  and  with  it 
all  their  dreams  of  a  quiet  and  oozey  winter. 
They  were  between  two  fires.  On  one  side 
were  their  old  enemies,  the  Crows  ;  on  the  other 
side,  the  Arapahays,  no  less  dangerous  freeboot- 
ers. As  to  the  moderation  of  this  war  party, 
they  considered  it  assumed,  to  put  them  off  their 
guard  against  some  more  favorable  opportunity 
for  a  surprisal.  It  was  determined,  therefore, 
not  to  await  their  return,  but  to  abandon,  with 
all  speed,  this  dangerous  neighborhood.  From 
the  accounts  of  their  recent  visitors,  they  were 
led   to   believe,   though   erroneously,   that  thejr 


GOOD   QVAHTEH8  ABANDONED,         519 


M 


Their 

jnition, 
They 
)  spoils 
d  they, 
all  soon 
nounted 
our  bri- 
horse  to 

1  bring 
ion,  but 
ermined 
unavail- 
d  laugh, 
ed,  both 
ik  agaiu 

han  tho 
The  86- 
with  it 
winter, 
lue   side 
he  other 
reeboot- 
party, 
ff  their 
ortunity 
iierefbre, 
with 
From 
y  were 
at  they 


Ion, 


were  upon  the  Quicourt,  or  Rapid  River.  They 
proposed  now  to  keep  along  it  to  its  confluence 
with  the  Missouri ;  but,  should  they  be  pre- 
vented by  the  rigors  of  the  season  from  proceeding 
io  far,  at  least  to  reach  a  part  of  the  river  where 
they  might  be  able  to  construct  canoes  of  greater 
strength  and  durability  than  those  of  buffalo 
skins. 

Accordingly,  on  the  18th  of  December,  they 
bade  adieu,  with  many  a  regret,  to  their  comfort- 
able quarters  where  for  five  weeks  they  had 
been  indulging  the  sweets  of  repose,  of  plenty, 
and  of  fancied  security.  They  were  still  accom- 
panied by  their  veteran  pack-horse,  which  the 
Arapahays  had  omitted  to  steal  either  because 
they  intended  to  steal  him  on  their  return,  <ir 
because  they  thought  him  not  worth  stealing. 


CHAPTER  L. 


K 


'.  11 


1 1 
i<  III 


I  HE  interval  of  comfort  and  repose  which 
the  party  had  enjoyed  in  their  wigwam, 
rendered  the  renewal  of  their  fatigues 
mtolerable  for  the  first  two  or  three  days.  The 
Bnow  lay  deep,  and  was  slightly  frozen  on  the 
surface,  but  not  sufficiently  to  bear  their  weight. 
Their  feet  became  sore  by  breaking  through  the 
crust,  and  their  limbs  weary  by  floundering  on 
without  firm  foothold.  So  exhausted  and  dis- 
pirited were  they,  that  they  began  to  think  it 
would  be  better  to  remain  and  run  the  risk  of 
being  killed  by  the  Indians,  than  to  drag  on  thus 
painfully,  with  the  probability  of  perishing  by  the 
way.  Their  miserable  horse  fared  no  better  than 
themselves,  having  for  the  first  day  or  two  no 
other  fodder  than  the  ends  of  willow  twigs,  and 
the  bark  of  the  cotton-wood  tree. 

They  all,  however,  appeared  to  gain  patience 
and  hardihood  as  they  proceeded,  and  for  fourteen 
days  kept  steadily  on,  making  a  distance  of  about 
three  hundred  and  thirty  miles.  For  some  days, 
the  range  of  mountains  which  had  been  near  to 
their  wigwam  kept  parallel  to  the  river  at  no 
great  distance,  but  at  length  subsided  into  hills. 
Sometimes  they  found  the  river  bordered  with 
iUuvial  bottoms,  and  groves  with  cotton-wood  and 


MISTAKE  IN   THEIR   COURSE. 


521 


se  which 
wigwam, 

fatigues 
^s.  The 
1  on  the 
r  weight, 
ough  the 
lering  on 

and  dis- 
\  think  it 
3  risk  of 
a  on  thus 
ng  by  the 

itter  than 
two  no 

iwigs,  and 

patience 

fourteen 

of  about 

)me  days, 

near  to 

irer  at  no 

tnto  hills. 

3red  with 

Lwood  and 


willows ;  sometimes  tiie  adjacent  country  was 
naked  and  barren.  In  one  place  it  ran  for  a 
considerable  distance  between  rocky  hills  aad 
promontories  covered  with  cedar  and  pitch  pines, 
and  peopled  with  the  bighorn  and  the  mountain 
deer  ;  at  other  places  it  wandered  through  prairie 
well  stocked  with  buffaloes  and  antelopes.  As 
they  descended  the  course  of  tho  river,  they  be- 
gan to  perceive  the  ash  and  white  oak  here  and 
there  among  the  cotton-wood  and  willow ;  and  at 
length  caught  a  sight  of  some  wUd  horses  on  the 
distant  prairies. 

The  weather  was  various ;  at  one  time  the 
snow  lay  deep ;  then  they  had  a  genial  day  or 
two,  with  the  mildness  and  serenity  of  autumn  ; 
then,  again,  the  frost  was  so  severe  that  the  river 
was  sufficiently  frozen  to  bear  them  upon  the  ice. 

During  the  last  three  days  of  their  fortnight's 
travel,  however,  the  face  of  the  country  changed. 
The  timber  gradually  diminished,  until  they  could 
scarcely  find  fuel  sufficient  for  culinary  purposes. 
The  game  grew  more  and  more  scanty,  and, 
finally,  none  wei*e  to  be  seen  but  a  few  miserable 
broken-down  buffalo  bulls,  not  worth  killing. 
The  snew  lay  fifteen  inches  deep,  and  made  the 
travelling  grievoufe)y  painful  and  toilsome.  At 
length  they  came  to  an  immense  plain,  where  no 
vestige  of  timber  wab  to  be  seen ;  nor  a  single 
quadruped  to  enliven  the  desolate  landscape. 
Here,  then,  their  hearts  failed  them, 'and  they 
held  another  consultation.  The  width  of  the 
river,  which  was  upwards  of  a  mile,  its  extreme 
shallowness,  tlie  frequency   of  quicksands,   and 


522 


ASTORIA. 


'  i'     :i 


:  urn 


:|       ! 


various  other  characteristics,  had  at  length  made 
them  sensible  of  their  errors  with  respect  to  it, 
and  they  now  came  to  the  correct  conclusion, 
that  they  were  on  the  banks  of  the  Platte  or 
Shallow  River.  What  were  they  to  do  ?  Pur- 
sue its  course  to  the  IVIlssouri  ?  To  go  on  at  this 
season  of  the  year  seemed  dangerous  in  the  ex» 
treme.  There  was  no  prospect  of  obtaining  either 
food  or  firing.  The  country  was  destitute  of 
trees,  and  though  there  might  be  drift-wood  along 
the  river,  it  lay  too  deep  beneath  the  snow  for 
them  to  find  it. 

The  weather  was  threatening  a  change,  and 
a  snow-st^rm  on  these  boundless  wastes  might 
prove  as  fatal  as  a  whirlwind  of  sand  on  an 
Arabian  desert.  After  much  dreary  delibera- 
tion, it  was  at  length  determined  to  retrace 
their  three  last  days'  journey,  of  seventy-seven 
miles,  to  a  place  which  they  had  remarked  where 
there  was  a  sheltering  growth  of  forest  trees, 
and  a  country  abundant  in  game.  Here  they 
would  once  more  set  up  their  winter  quarters, 
and  await  the  opening  of  the  navigation  to  launch 
themselves  in  canoes. 

Accordingly,  on  the  27th  of  December,  they 
faced  about,  retraced  their  steps,  and  on  the 
30th,  regained  the  part  of  the  river  in  question. 
Here  the  alluvial  bottom  was  from  one  to  two 
miles  wide,  and  thickly  covered  with  a  forest  of 
cotton-wood  trees ;  while  herds  of  buffalo  were 
ucattered  about  the  neighboring  prairie,  several  of 
which  soon  fell  beneath  their  rifles. 

They  encamped  on  the  margin  of  the  river,  in 


SECOND   CANTONMENT. 


523 


;h  made 
;t  to  it, 
iclusion, 
latte  or 
?>  Pur- 
m  at  this 

the  ex.- 
ng  either 
titute  of 
Dod  along 

snow  for 

ange,  and 
ites  might 
ad  on   an 
delibera- 
to   retrace 
enty-seven 
ked  where 
irest  trees, 
:ere  they 
quarters, 
to  launch 

iber,  they 
id  on    the 

question. 
Ine  to  two 

forest  of 
iffalo  were 

several  of 

le  river,  in 


a  grove  where  there  were  trees  large  enough 
fof  canoes.  Here  they  put  up  a  shed  for  imme- 
diate phelter,  and  immediately  proceeded  to  erect 
a  hut.  New  Year's  day  dawned  when,  as  yet, 
but  one  wall  of  their  cabin  was  completed ;  the 
genial  and  jovial  day,  however,  was  not  per- 
mitted to  pass  uncelebrated,  even  by  this  weath- 
er-beaten crew  of  wanderers.  All  work  was  sus- 
pended, except  that  of  roasting  and  boiling.  The 
^choicest  of  the  buifalo  meat,  with  tongues,  ano 
humps,  and  marrow-bones,  were  devoured  in 
quantities  tliat  would  astonish  any  one  that  has 
not  lived  among  hunters  or  Indians ;  and  as  an 
extra  regale,  having  no  tobacco  left,  they  cut  up 
an  old  tobacco  pouch,  still  redolent  with  the 
potent  herb,  and  smoked  it  in  honor  of  the  day 
Thus  for  a  time,  in  present  revelry,  however  un- 
couth, they  forgot  all  past  troubles  and  aU  anxie- 
ties about  the  future,  and  their  forlorn  wigwam 
echoed  to  the  sound  of  gayety. 

The  next  day  they  resumed  their  labors,  and 
by  the  6th  of  the  month  it  was  complete.  They 
soon  killed  abundance  of  buffalo,  and  again  laid 
in  a  stock  of  winter  provisions. 

The  party  were  more  fortunate  in  this  their 
second  cantonment.  The  winter  passed  away 
without  any  Indian  visitors,  and  the  game  con- 
tinued to  be  plenty  in  the  neighborhood.  They 
felled  two  large  trees,  and  shaped  them  into 
canoes ;  and,  as  the  spring  opened,  and  a  thaw 
of  several  days'  continuance  melted  the  ice  in  the 
nver,  they  made  every  preparation  for  embarking. 
On  the  8  th  of  March  they  launched  fortli  in  their 


!  m 


« 


524: 


ASTORIA, 


canoes,  but  soon  found  that  the  river  had  nut 
depth  sufficient  even  for  such  slender  barks.  Jt 
expanded  into  a  wide  but  extremely  shallow 
stream,  with  many  sand-bars,  and  occasionally 
various  channels.  They  got  one  of  their  canoes 
a  few  miles  down  it,  with  extreme  difficulty, 
sometimes  wading,  and  dragging  it  over  the 
shoals  ;  at  length  they  had  to  abandon  the  at- 
tempt, and  to  resume  their  journey  on  foot,  aided 
by  their  faithM  old  pack-horse,  who  had  recruited 
strength  during  the  repose  of  the  winter. 

The  weather  delayed  them  for  a  few  days, 
having  suddenly  become  more  rigorous  tJian  it 
had  been  at  any  time  during  the  winter ;  but  on 
the  20th  of  March  they  were  again  on  their 
journey. 

In  two  days  they  arrived  at  the  vast  naked 
prairie,  the  wintry  aspect  of  which  had  caused 
them,  in  December,  to  pause  and  turn  back.  It 
was  now  clothed  in  the  early  verdure  of  spring, 
and  plentifully  stocked  with  game.  Still,  when 
obliged  to  bivouac  on  its  bare  surface,  without 
any  shelter,  and  by  a  scanty  fire  of  dry  buffalo 
dung,  they  found  the  night  blasts  piercing  cold. 
On  one  occasion,  a  herd  of  buffalo  straying  near 
their  evening  camp,  they  killed  three  of  them 
merely  for  their  hides,  wherewith  to  make  a 
shelter  for  the  night. 

They  continued  on  for  upwards  of  a  himdred 
miles  ;  with  vast  prairies  extending  before  them 
as  they  advanced  ;  sometimes  diversified  by  undu- 
lating hills,  but  destitute  of  trees.  In  one  place 
they  saw  a  gang  of  sixty-five  wild  horses,  but  as 


PR  A  TRIE  SCENERY  IRKSOME. 


525 


had  not 
irks.    Jt 
shallow 
»asionally 
ir  canoes 
difficulty, 
over   the 
1  the  atr 
bot,  aided 
I  recruited 

p. 

few  days, 

13  than  it 

sr ;  but  on 

on   their 

rast  n&ked 
lad  caused 
back.     It 
of  spring, 
Still,  when 
3e,  without 
iry  buffalo 
rcing  cold, 
aying  near 
of  them 
10   make   a 

a  hundred 
efore  them 
d  by  undu- 
one  place 
ses,  but  as 


to  the  buffaloes,  they  seemed  absolutely  to  cover 
the  country.  Wild  geese  abounded,  and  they 
passed  extensive  swamps  that  were  alive  with 
iimumerable  flocks  of  water-fowl,  among  which 
were  a  few  swans,  but  an  endless  variety  of 
ducks.  » 

The  river  continued  a  winding  course  to  the 
east-northeast,  nearly  a  mile  in  width,  but  too 
shallow  to  float  even  an  empty  canoe.  The 
country  spread  out  into  a  vast  level  plain, 
bounded  by  the  horizon  alone,  excepting  to  the 
north,  where  a  line  of  Iiills  seemed  like  a  long 
promontory  stretching  into  the  bosom  of  the 
ocean.  The  dreary  sameness  of  the  prairie  wastes 
began  to  grow  extremely  irksome.  The  travel- 
lers longed  for  the  sight  of  a  forest,  or  grove,  or 
single  tree,  to  break  the  level  uniformity,  and  be- 
gan to  notice  every  object  that  gave  reason  to 
hope  they  were  drawing  towards  the  end  of  this 
weary  wilderness.  Thus  the  occurrence  of  a  par- 
ticular kind  of  grass  was  hailed  as  a  proof  that 
they  could  not  be  far  from  the  bottoms  of  the 
Missouri ;  and  they  were  rejoiced  at  putting  up 
several  prairie  hens,  a  kind  of  grouse  seldom 
found  far  in  the  interior.  In  picking  up  drift- 
wood for  fuel,  also,  they  found  on  some  pieces  the 
mark  of  an  axe,  which  caused  much  speculation 
as  to  the  time  when  and  the  persons  by  whom 
the  trees  had  been  felled.  Thus  they  went  on, 
like  sailors  at  sea,  who  perceive  in  every  floating 
weed  and  wandering  bird,  harbingers  of  the 
wished-for  land. 

By  the  close  of  the  month  the  weather  became 


■ 


31  Id 


1 1 


ihl 


•!i  ;  i 


526 


astorta: 


very  mifd,  and,  heavily  burdened  as  they  were, 
they  found  the  noontide  temperature  uncomfor- 
tably warm.  On  the  30th,  they  came  to  three 
deserted  hunting  camps,  either  of  Pawnees  or 
Ottoes,  about  which  were  buffalo  skulls  in  all  di- 
rections ;  and  the  frames  on  which  the  hides  had 
been  stretched  and  cured.  They  had  apparently 
been  occupied  the  preceding  autumn. 

For  several  days  they  kept  patiently  on,  watch- 
ing every  sign  that  might  give  them  an  idea  as  to 
where  they  were,  and  how  near  to  the  banks  of 
the  Missouri. 

Though  there  were  numerous  traces  of  hunting 
parties  and  encampments,  they  were  not  of  recent 
date.  The  country  seemed  deserted.  The  only 
human  beings  they  met  with  were  three  Pawnee 
scjuaws,  in  a  hut  in  the  midst  of  a  deserted  caoi?^. 
Their  people  had  all  gone  to  the  south,  in  pursui;. 
of  the  buffalo,  and  had  left  these  poor  women  be- 
hind, being  too  sick  and  infirm  i:o  travel. 

It  is  a  common  practice  with  iii<;  Pawnees,  and 
probably  with  other  roving  trills,  when  departing 
on  a  distant  expedition,  which  will  not  admit  of 
incumbrance  or  delay,  to  leave  their  aged  and  in- 
firm with  a  supply  of  provisions  sufficient  for  a 
temporary  subsistence.  When  this  is  exhausted, 
they  must  perish  ;  though  sometimes  their  suffer- 
ings are  abridged  by  hostile  prowlers  who  may 
v'>£*t  the  deserted  camp. 

The  poor  squaws  in  question  expected  some 
iiic'i  f:.i';e  at  the  hands-  of  the  wliite  strangers,  and 
t'ou'^h  the  liitter  accosted  them  in  the  kindest 
tnai^tibi',  and  made  them  presents  of  dried  buffalo 


NEU'S  FROM   THE  STATES. 


f)27 


f  were, 
comfor- 
o  three 
nees  oi 
tt  all  di- 
des  had 
parently 

I,  watch-    • 
iea  as  to 
)auks  of 

■  hunting 
of  recent 
The  only 
J  Pawnee 
ted  canip. 
in  pursui;; 
omen  be- 

Irnees,  and 
ieparting 
admit  of 
and  in- 
ent  for  a 
xhausted, 
eir  suffer- 
who  may 

»ted  some 
ngers,  and 
9  kindest 
ed  buftalo 


moat,  it  was  impossible  to  soothe  their  alarm,  or 
get  any  information  from  them. 

The  first  landmark  by  which  the  travellers 
were  enabled  to  conjecture  their  position  with  any 
degree  of  confidence,  was  an  island  about  seventy 
miles  in  length,  which  they  presumed  to  be  Grand 
Isle.  If  so,  they  were  within  one  hundred  and 
forty  miles  of  the  Missouri.  They  kept  on, 
therefore,  with  renewed  spirit,  and  at  the  end  of 
three  days  met  with  an  Otto  Indian,  by  whom 
they  were  confirmed  in  their  conjecture.  They 
learnt  at  the  same  time  another  piece  of  informa- 
tion, of  an  uncomfortable  nature.  According  to 
his  account,  there  was  war  between  the  United 
States  and  England,  and  in  fact  it  had  existed  for 
a  whole  year,  during  which  time  they  had  been 
beyond  the  reacli  of  all  knowledge  of  the  affairs 
of  the  civilized  world. 

The  Otto  conducted  the  travellers  to  his  village, 
situated  a  short  distance  from  the  banks  of  the 
Platte.  Here  they  were  delighted  to  meet  with 
two  white  men,  Messrs.  Dornin  and  Roi,  Indian 
traders  recently  from  St.  Louis.  Of  these  they 
had  a  thousand  inquiries  to  make  concerning  all 
iifHiirs,  foreign  and  domestic,  during  their  year  of 
sepulture  in  the  wilderness  ;  and  especially  about 
the  events  of  the  existing  war. 

They  now  prepared  to  abandon  their  weary 
travel  by  land,  and  to  embark  upon  the  water. 
A  bargain  was  made  with  Mr.  Dornin,  who  en- 
gaged to  furnish  them  with  a  canoe  and  provisions 
tor  the  voyage,  in  exchange  for  their  venerable 
and  well-tried  fellow  traveller,  the  old  Snake 
horse. 


528 


ASTORIA. 


H 


llilliil 


I 

\ 


Accordingly,  in  a  couple  of  days,  the  Indians 
employed  by  that  gentleman  constructed  for  them 
a  canoe  twenty  feet  long,  four  feet  wide,  and 
eighteen  inches  deep.  The  frame  was  of  poles 
and  willow  twigs,  on  which  were  stretched  five 
elk  and  buffalo  hides,  sewed  together  with  sinews, 
and  the  seams  payed  with  unctuous  mud.  In  this 
they  embarked  at  an  early  hour  on  the  16th  of 
April,  and  drifted  down  ten  miles  with  the  stream, 
when  the  wind  being  high  they  encamped,  and 
set  to  work  to  make  oars,  which  they  had  not 
been  able  to  procure  at  the  Indian  village. 

Once  more  afloat,  they  went  merrily  down  the 
stream,  and  after  making  thirty  five  miles,  emerged 
inio  the  bvoad  turbid  current  of  *he  Missouri. 
Here  they  weiv^  borne  along  briskly  by  the  rapid 
stream ;  though,  by  the  time  their  fmgile  bark  had 
floated  a  couple  of  hundred  miles,  its  frame  began 
to  show  the  effects  of  the  voyage.  LuckJy  they 
came  to  the  deserted  wintering  place  of  some 
hunting  party,  where  they  found  two  old  wooden 
canoes.  Taking  possession  of  the  largest,  they 
again  committed  themselves  to  the  current,  and 
after  dropping  dow/i  fifty-five  miles  further,  arrived 
safely  at  Fort  Osage. 

Here  they  found  Lieutenant  Brownson  still  in 
command ;  the  officer  who  had  given  the  expe- 
dition a  hospitable  reception  on  its  way  up  the* 
river,  eighteen  months  previously.  He  received 
this  remnant  of  the  party  with  a  cordial  welcome, 
and  endeavored  in  every  way  to  promote  their 
comfoit  and  enjoyment  during  their  sojourn  at  the 
fcM't.     The  greatest  luxury  they  met  with  on  their 


BACK   TO   CIVILIZATION, 


529 


IndianA 
3r  them 
cle,  and 
of  poles 
tied  five 
I  sinews, 
In  this 

16th  of 
B  stream, 
ped,  and 

had  not 

e. 

down  the 
,  emerged 
Missouri, 
the  rapid 
I  bark  had 
nie  began 
skily  they 
of  some 
[d  wooden 
^5st,  they 
•rent,  and 
er,  arrived 

ton  still  in 
I  the  expe-^ 
^y  up  the 
received 
welcome, 
lote  their 
J)uru  at  the 
Ith  on  their 


return  to  the  abode  of  civilized  man,  was  bread, 
not  having  tasted  any  for  nearly  a  year. 

Their  stay  at  Fort  Osage  was  but  short.  On 
reembarking  they  were  ftirnished  with  an  ample 
supply  of  provisions  by  the  kindness  of  Lieuten- 
ant Brownson,  and  performed  the  rest  of  their 
voyage  without  adverse  circumstance.  On  the 
30th  of  April  they  arrived  in  perfect  health  and 
fine  spirits  at  dt.  Louis,  having  been  ten  months 
in  performnig  this  perilous  expedition  from  As- 
toria. Their  return  caused  quite  a  sensation  at 
the  place,  bringing  the  first  intelligence  of  the 
fortune  of  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  party,  in  their  ad- 
venturous route  across  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and 
of  the  new  establishment  on  Uie  shores  of  the 
Pacific 


U 


"fi 


CHAPTER  LL 


|T  is  now  necessary,  in  linking  together 
the  parts  of  this  excursive  narrative, 
that  we  notice  the  proceedings  of  Mr. 
Astor  in  support  of  his  great  undertaking.  His 
project  with  respect  to  the  Russian  establishments 
along  the  northwest  coast  had  been  diligently 
prosecuted.  Tlie  agent  sent  by  him  to  St.  Peters- 
burgh,  to  negotiate  in  his  name  as  president  of 
the  American  Fur  Company,  had,  under  sanction 
of  the  Russian  government,  made  a  proviHional 
agreemt*  t  with  the  Russian  company. 

By  tliis  agreement,  which  was  ratified  by  Mr. 
Astor  in  1813,  the  two  companies  bound  them- 
selves not  to  interfere  with  each  other's  trading 
and  hunting  grounds,  nor  to  furnish  arms  and  am- 
munition to  the  Indians.  They  were  to  act  in 
concert,  also,  against  all  interlopers,  and  to  succor 
each  other  in  case  of  danger.  The  American 
company  was  to  have  the  exclusive  right  of  sup- 
plying the  Russian  posts  with  goods  and  neces- 
saries, receiving  peltries  in  payment  at  stated 
prices.  They  weie,  also,  if  so  requested  by  the 
Russian  governor,  to  convey  the  furs  of  the  Rus- 
sian company  to  Canton,  sell  them  on  commission, 
and  briniir  back  the  proceeds,  at  such  freight  as 
might  be  agreed  on  at  the  time.     This  agreement 


ogetber 
irrative, 

of  Mr. 
g.     His 
ishments 
filigently 
.  Peters- 
iident  of 

sanction 
po  visional 

[d  by  Mr. 
\u4  tbem- 
's  trading 
|s  and  am- 
to  act  in 
to  succor 
American 
|ht  of  sup- 
iiid  neces- 
at  stated 
:ed  by  tbe 
f  tbe  Rus- 
omniission, 
freight  as 
agreement 


BRTGHV  ANTlCfPATIONS   CLOUDED,    531 

was  to  continue  in  operation  four  years,  and  to 
be  renewable  for  a  similar  term,  unless  some  un- 
foreseen contingency  should  render  a  modification 
necessary. 

It  was  calculated  to 'be  of  great  service  to  the 
infant  establishment  at  Astoria ;  dispelling  the 
fears  of  hostile  rivalry  on  the  part  of  the  foreign, 
companies  in  its  neighborhood,  and  giving  a  formi- 
dable blow  to  the  irregular  trade  along  the  coast. 
It  was  also  the  intention  of  Mr.  Astor  to  have 
coasting  vessels  of  his  own,  at  Astoria,  of  small 
tonnage  and  draft  of  water,  fitted  for  coasting 
service.  These,  having  a  place  of  shelter  and 
deposit,  could  ply  about  the  coast  in  short  voyages, 
in  favorable  weather,  and  would  have  vast  ad- 
vantage over  chance  ships,  which  must  make  long 
voyages,  maintain  numerous  crews,  and  could  only 
approach  the  coast  at  certain  seasons  of  the  year. 
He  .hoped,  therefore,  gradually  to  make  Astoria 
tlie  great  emporium  of  the  American  fur  trade 
in  the  Pacific,  and  the  nucleus  of  a  powerful 
American  state.  Unfortunately  for  these  sans:uine 
anticipations,  before  Mr.  Astor  had  ratified  the 
agreement,  as  above  stated,  war  broke  out  between 
the  United  States  and  great  Britain.  He  per- 
ceived at  once  the  peril  of  the  case.  The  harbor 
of  New  York  would  doubtless  be  bk>ckaided,  and 
the  departure  of  the  annual  supply  ship  in  the 
autumn  prevented;  or,  if  she  should  succeed  in 
getting  out  to  sea,  she  might  be  captured  on  bei 
voyage. 

In  this  emergency,  he  wrote  to  Captain  Sowle, 
oommandei  of  the  Beaver.     The   letter,  which 


i    '!■ 


'' 


Ill' 


ii 


582 


ASTOjUA. 


was  addressed  to  him  at  Canton,  directed  him  to 
proceed  to  the  factory  at  the  mouth  of  the  Co- 
lumbia, witli  such  articles  as  the  establishment 
might  need ;  and  to  remain  there,  subject  to  the 
orders  of  Mr.  Hunt,  should  that  gentleman  be  ia 
command  there. 

The  war  continued.  No  tidings  had  yet  been 
received  from  Astoria ;  the  dispatches  having  been 
delayed  by  the  misadventure  of  Mr.  Reed  at  the 
falls  of  the  Columbia,  and  the  unhorsing  of  Mr. 
Stuart  by  the  Crows  among  the  mountains.  A 
oainful  uncertainty,  also,  prevailed  about  Mr.  Hunt 
and  his  party.  Nothing  had  been  heard  of  them 
since  their  departure  from  the  Arickara  village ; 
Lisa,  who  parted  from  them  there,  had  predicted 
their  destruction ;  and  some  of  the  traders  of  the 
Northwest  Company  had  actually  spread  a  rumor 
of  their  having  been  cut  off  by  the  Indians. 

It  was  a  hard  trial  of  the  courage  and  means 
of  an  individual  to  have  to  fit  out  another  costly 
expedition,  where  so  much  had  already  been  ex- 
pended, so  much  uncertainty  prevailed,  and  where 
the  risk  of  loss  was  so  greatly  enhanced,  that  no 
insurance  could  be  effected. 

In  spite  of  all  these  discouragements,  Mr. 
Astor  determined  to  send  another  ship  to  the  re- 
lief of  the  settlement.  He  selected  for  this  pur- 
pose a  vessel  called  the  Lark,  remarkable  for  her 
fast  sailing.  The  disordered  state  of  the  times, 
however,  caused  such  a  delay,  that  February  ar- 
rived, while  the  vessel  was  yet  lingering  in  port. 

At  this  juncture,  Mr.  Astor  learnt  that  tho 
Northwest  Company  were  preparing  to  send  out 


GOVERNMENT  AID  INVOKED, 


588 


[  him  to 
the  Co- 
Ushment 
3t  to  the 
lan  be  in 

yet  been 
ying  been 
led  at  the 
ig  of  Mr. 
ains.     A 
Mr.  Hunt 
1  of  them 
a  village; 
predicted 
ers  of  the 
(d  a  rumor 
ians. 

md  means 
her  costly 
been  ex- 
and  where 
ed,  that  no 

nents,  Mr. 

to  the  re- 
r  this  pur- 
ble  for  her 

the  times, 
sbruary  ar- 
ng  in  port. 
It  that  the 
;o  send  out 


an  armed  ship  of  twenty  guns,  called  the  Isaao 
Todd,  to  form  an  establishment  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Columbia.  These  tidings  gave  him  great  un- 
easiness. A  considerable  proportion  of  the  persons 
in  his  employ  were  Scotchmen  and  Canadians, 
and  several  of  them  had  been  in  the  service  of 
the  Northwest  Company.  Should  Mr.  Hunt  have 
failed  to  arrive  at  Astoria,  the  whole  establish- 
ment would  be  under  the  control  of  Mr.  M'Dougal, 
of  whose  fidelity  he  had  received  very  disparaging 
accounts  from  Captain  Thorn.  The  British  gov- 
ernment, also,  might  deem  it  worth  while  to  send 
a  force  against  the  establishment,  having  been 
urged  to  do  so  some  time  previously  by  the 
Nofthwest  Company. 

Under  all  these  circumstances,  Mr.  Astor  wrote 
to  Mr.  Monroe,  then  secretary  of  state,  requesting 
protection  from  the  government  of  the  United 
States.  He  represented  the  importance  of  his 
settlement,  in  a  commercial  point  of  view,  and 
the  shelter  it  might  afford  to  the  A  merican  vessels 
in  tiiose  seas.  All  he  asked  was  that  the  Amer- 
ican government  would  throw  forty  or  fifty  men 
into  the  fort  at  his  establishment,  which  would  be 
sufficient  for  its  defense  until  he  could  send  rein- 
forcements over  land. 

He  waited  in  vain  for  a  reply  to  this  letter, 
the  government,  no  doubt,  being  engrossed  at  the 
time  by  an  overwhelming  crowd  of  affairs.  The 
\nonth  of  March  arrived,  and  the  Lark  was  ordered 
by  Mr.  Astor  to  put  to  sea.  The  officer  who  was 
V)  command  her,  shrunk  from  his  engagement,  and 
'u  the  exigency  of  the  moment,  she  was  given  in 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


I.I 


|22 


1^ 

us 

1^  m 

lAo    111112.0 


m 


1.25    \u 

1.6 

II mil 

^ 

6"     — 

► 

Photographic 

Sdences 

Corporation 


4 


fV 


,v 


\ 


\ 


% 


6^ 


€>. 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


<> 


^4 


4ST0RIA. 


cUaiT^e  to  Mr.  Northrop,  the  mate.  Mr.  Nicholas 
6.  Ogdep,  a  f^entleman  on  whose  talents  and  in- 
tegrity the  highest  reliance  could  be  placed,  sailed 
aA  supercargo.  The  Lark  pal  to  sea  in  the 
beginning  of  March,  iSlS, 

By  this  opportunity,  Mr.  Astor  wrote  to  Mr. 
Hunt,  aa  bead  of  tuo  establishment  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Columbjia,  for  he  would  not  allow  himself 
to  doubt  of  his  welfare.  *'I  always  think  you 
are  well/'  said  be,  "  and  that  I  shall  see  you  agairj, 
which  Heaten,  I  hope,  will  grant." 

He  warned  him  to  be  >n  his  guard  against 
ftny  attempts  to  surprise  the  post ;  suggesting  tha 
probability  of  armed  hostility  on  the  part  of  the 
Northwest  Company,  and  ei^pressing  his  indig- 
nation at  the  ungrateful  returns  inade  by  that  as- 
sociation for  bis  frank  {^nd  open  conduct,  and  ad- 
vantageous overtures.  "  Were  I  on  the  spot," 
said  he«  ^^  and  had  the  management  of  affairs,  I 
would  ^iy  them  all }  but«  as  it  is,  everything  de- 
pends upon  you  and  your  friends  about  you.  Owr 
enterprise  %$  grand,  and  deserves  success,  and  1  hope 
in  God  it  will  meet  it.  If  my  object  was  merely 
gain  of  money,  I  should  say,  think  whether  it  is 
best  to  save  what  we  can,  and  abandon  the  place ; 
^ut  the  very  idea  is  like  a  dagger  tc  my  heart,** 
This  extract  is  sufficient  to  show  the  spirit  and 
the  views  which  actuated  Mr.  Astor  in  this  great 
undertaking. 

Week  after  week  and  month  after  month  elapsed, 
without  anything  to  dispel  the  painful  incertitude 
^at  hung  over  every  part  of  this  enterprise. 
Though  a  man  of  resolute  spirit,  and  not  easily 


A  GLEAM   OF  SUNSHINE* 


535 


^icUolai 
\  and  in- 
id,  sailed 
a  ia  the 

a  to  Mr. 
lie  mouth 
V  himself 
hink  you 
^ou  agairi, 

rd  against 
resting  tha 
)art  of  the 
his  indig- 
by  that  as- 
ct,  and  ad- 
the  spot," 
f  affairs,  I 
rything  der 
you.     Ow 
and  1  hope 
was  merely 
hether  it  is 
1  the  place ; 
tny  heart 
>  spirit  and 
a  this  great 

)nth  elapsed, 
incertitude 
enterprise. 

d  not  easily 


cast  down,  the  dangers  impending  over  this  dar« 
ling  scheme  of  his  amhition,  had  a  gradual  effect 
upon  the  spirits  of  Mr.  Astor.  He  was  sitting 
one  gloomy  evening  by  his  window,  revolving 
over  the  loss  of  the  Tonquin  and  the  fate  of  her 
unfortunate  crew,  and  fearing  that  some  equally 
tragical  calamity  might  have  befallen  the  ad- 
venturers across  the  mountains,  when  the  evening 
newspaper  was  brought  to  him.  The  first  para- 
graph that  caught  his  eye,  announced  the  arrival 
of  Mr.  Stuart  and  his  party  at  St.  Louis,  with 
iiktelligenoe  that  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  companions 
had  effected  their  perilous  expedition  to  the  mouth 
of  the  Columbia.  This  was  a  gleam  of  sunshine 
that  for  a  time  dispelled  every  cloud,  and  he  now 
looked  forward  with  sanguine  hope  to  the  a&« 
eomplishment  of  all  his  plans. 


CHAPTER  Lll. 


»[ 


HE  course  of  our  narrative  now  takes 
us  back  to  the  regions  beyond  the 
mountains,  to  dispose  of  the  parties 
that  set  out  from  Astoria,  in  company  with  Mr. 
Robert  Stuart,  and  whom  he  left  on  the  banks 
of  the  Wallah-Wallah.  Those  parties  likewise 
separated  from  each  other  shortly  after  his  de- 
parture, proceeding  to  their  respective  destina- 
tions, but  agreeing  to  meet  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Wallah- Wallah  about  the  beginning  of  June  in 
the  following  year,  with  such  peltries  as  they 
should  have  collected  in  the  interior,  so  as  to  con- 
voy each  other  through  the  dangerous  passes  of 
the  Columbia. 

Mr.  David  Stuart,  one  of  the  partners,  pro- 
ceeded with  his  men  to  the  post  already  estab- 
lished by  him  at  the  mouth  of  the  Q^kinagan ; 
having  furnished  this  with  goods  and  ammunition, 
he  proceeded  three  hundred  miles  up  that  river, 
where  he  established  another  post  in  a  good  trad- 
ing neighborhood. 

Mr.  Clarke,  another  partner,  conducted  his 
little  band  up  Lewis  River  to  the  mouth  of  a 
small  stream  coming  in  from  the  north,  to  which 
the  Canadians  gave  the  name  of  the  Favion. 
Here  he  found  a  village  or  encampment  of  forty 


:  I 


MR.  CLARKE'S  DESTINATION. 


537 


huts  or  tents,  covered  with  mats,  and  inhabited 
by  Nez  Perces,  or  Pierced-nose  Indians,  as  they 
are  called  by  the  traders ;  but  Chipunnish,  as 
they  are  called  by  themselves.  They  are  a 
hardy,  laborious,  and  somewhat  knavish  race, 
who  lead  a  precarious  life,  fishing  and  <2igging 
roots  during  the  summer  and  autumn,  hunting 
the  deer  on  snow-shoes  during  the  winter,  and 
traversing  the  Rocker  Mountains  in  the  spring,  to 
trade  for  buffalo  skins  with  the  hunting  tribes 
of  the  Missouri.  In  these  migrations  they  are 
liable  to  be  waylaid  and  attacked  by  the  Black- 
feet,  and  other  warlike  and  predatory  tribes,  and 
driven  back  across  the  mountains  with  the  loss 
of  their  horses,  and  of  many  of  their  comrades. 

A  life  of  this  unsettled  and  precarious  kind  ia 
apt  to  render  man  selfish,  and  such  Mr.  Clarke 
found  the  inhabitants  of  this  village,  who  were 
deficient  in  the  usual  hospitality  of  Indians ; 
parting  with  everything  with  extreme  reluctance, 
and  showing  no  sensibility  to  any  act  of  kind- 
ness. At  the  time  of  his  arrival,  they  were  all 
occupied  in  catching  and  curing  salmon.  The 
men  were  stout,  robust,  active,  and  good  looking 
and  th&  women  handsomer  than  those  of  the  tribes 
nearer  to  the  coast. 

It  was  the  plan  of  Mr.  Clarke  to  lay  up  his 
boats  here,  and  proceed  by  land  to  his  place  of 
j?estin{ition,  which  was  among  the  Spokan  tribe 
of  Indians,  about  a  hundred  and  fifty  miles  dis- 
tant. He  accordingly  endeavored  to  purchase 
horses  for  the  journey,  but  in  this  he  had  to  con- 
tend with  the  sordid  disposition  of  these  people* 


538 


A8T0HIA, 


|,,,„j: 


They  asked  high  prices  for  their  horses,  and  were 
so  difficult  to  deal  with,  that  Mr.  Clarke  was  de- 
tained seven  days  among  them,  before  he  could 
procure  a  sufficient  number.  During  that  time 
he  was  annoyed  by  repeated  pilferings,  for  which 
he  could  get  no  redress.  The  chief  promised  to 
recover  the  stolen  articles ;  but  failed  to  do  so, 
alleging  that  the  thieves  belonged  to  a  distant 
tribe,  and  had  made  off  with*  their  booty.  With 
this  excuse  Mr.  Clarke  was  fain  to  content  him- 
self,  though  he  laid  up  in  his  heart  a  bitter  grudge 
against  the  whole  Pierced-nose  race  which  it  will 
be  found  he  took  occasion  subsequently  to  gratify 
in  a  signal  manner. 

Having  made  arrangements  for  his  departure, 
Mr.  Clarke  laid  up  his  barge  and  canoes  in  a 
sheltered  place,  on  the  banks  of  a  small  bay, 
overgrown  with  shrubs  and  willows,  confiding 
them  to  the  care  of  the  Nez  Perc^  chief,  who, 
on  being  promised  an  ample  compensation,  en- 
gaged to  have  a  guardian  eye  upon  them ;  then 
mounting  his  steed,  and  putting  himself  at  the 
head  of  his  little  caravan,  he  shook  the  dust  off 
his  feet  as  he  turned  his  back  upon  this  village 
of  rogues  and  hard  dealers.  We  shall  not  fol- 
low him  minutely  in  his  journey ;  which  lay  at 
times  over  steep  and  rocky  hills,  and  among 
crags  and  precipices ;  at  other  times  over  vast 
naked  and  sunburnt  plains,  abounding  with  rat« 
tlesnakes,  in  traversing  which,  both  men  and 
horses  suffered  intolerably  from  heat  and  thirst. 
The  place  on  which  he  fixed  for  a  trading  post, 
ivas  a  fine  poiEt  of  laud,  at  the  junction  of  :be 


MR.  MCKENZIE'S  POST, 


539 


id  were 
was  de- 
e  could 
at  time 
r  which 
nised  to 
>  do  so, 
,  distant 
.     With 
int  him- 
r  grudge 
jh  it  will 
o  gratify 

eparture, 
loes  in  a 
nail  bay, 
confiding 
lief,  who, 
aion,  en- 
jra;  then 
If  at  the 
dust  off 
is  village 
not  fol- 
;h  lay  at 
d   among 
3ver  vast 
with  rat- 
men   and 
nd  thirst, 
log  post, 
in  of  :ha 


Pointed  Heart  and  Spokau  Rivers.  His  estab* 
lishment  was  intended  to  compete  with  a  trading 
post  of  the  Northwest  Company,  situated  at  no 
great  distance,  and  to  rival  it  in  the  trade  with 
the  Spokan  Indians ;  as  well  as  with  the  Cooto- 
nais  and  Flatheads.  In  this  neighborhood  we 
shall  leave  him  for  the  present. 

Mr.  M'Kenzie,  who  conducted  the  third  party 
from  the  Wallah- Wallah,  navigated  for  several 
days  up  the  muih  branch  of  the  Columbia, 
named  the  CamoSnum  by  the  natives,  but  com- 
monly called  Lewis  River,  in  honor  of  the  first 
explorer.  Wandering  bands  of  various  tribes 
were  seen  along  this  river,  travelling  in  various 
directions  ;  for  the  Indians  generally  are  restless, 
roving  beings,  continually  intent  on  enterprises 
of  war,  traffic,  and  hunting.  Some  of  these 
people  were  driving  large  gangs  of  horses,  as  if 
to  a  distant  market.  Having  arrived  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Shahaptan,  he  ascended  some  dis- 
tance up  that  river,  and  established  his  trading 
post  upon  its  banks.  This  appeared  to  be  a 
great  thoroughfare  for  the  tribes  from  the  neigh- 
borhood of  the  Falls  of  the  Columbia,  in  their 
expeditions  to  make  war  upon  the  tribes  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains  ;  to  hunt  buffalo  on  the  plains 
beyond,  or  to  traffic  for  roots  and  buffalo  robes. 
It  was  the  season  of  migration,  and  the  Indians 
from  varioHS  distant  parts  were  passing  and  re- 
passing in  great  numbers. 

Mr.  M'Kenzie  now  detached  a  small  band, 
'inder  the  conduct  of  Mr.  John  Reed,  to  visit 
the  caches  made  by  Mr.  Hutu  at  the  Caldron 


540 


ASTORIA. 


m 


i|iir  3i ; 


Linn,  and  to  bring  the  contents  to  his  post ;  af 
he  depended,  in  some  measure,  on  them  for  his 
supplies  of  goods  and  ammunition.  They  had 
not  been  gone  a  week,  when  two  Indians  ar- 
rived of  the  Pallatapalla  tribe,  who  live  upon  a 
river  of  the  same  name.  These  communicated 
the  unwelcome  intelligence  that  the  caches  had 
been  robbed.  They  said  that  some  of  their  tribe 
had,  in  the  course  of  the  preceding  spring,  been 
across  the  mountains,  which  separated  them  fronr 
Snake  River,  and  had  traded  horses  with  the 
Snakes  in  exchange  for  blankets,  robes,  and  goods 
of  various  descriptions.  These  articles  the  Snakes 
had  procured  from  caches  to  which  they  were 
guided  ^y  some  white  men  who  resided  among 
them^  td  who  'afterwards  accompanied  them 
aero:  i  me  Rocky  Mountains.  This  intelligence 
was  extremely  perplexing  to  Mr.  M'Kenzie,  but 
the  truth  of  part  of  it  was  confirmed  by  the  two 
Indians,  who  brought  them  an  English  saddle 
and  bridle,  which  was  recognized  as  having  be- 
longed to  Mr.  Crooks.  Tiie  perfidy  of  the  white 
men  who  revealed  the  secret  of  the  caches,  was, 
however,  perfectly  inexplicable.  We  shall  pres- 
ently account  for  it  in  narrating  the  expedition 
of  Mr.  Reed. 

That  worthy  Hibernian  proceeded  on  his  mis- 
sion with  his  usual  alacrity.  His  forlorn  trav* 
els  of  the  preceding  winter  had  made  him  ac* 
quainted  with  the  topography  of  the  country, 
and  he  reached  Snake  River  without  any  mate- 
rial difficulty.  Here,  in  an  encampment  of  the 
natives,  he  met  with  six  white  men,  wanderers 


ROBBERY  OF  THE  CACHES. 


541 


io9t ;  as 
for  his 
ley  had 
3118  ar- 
upon  a 
inicated 
hes  had 
eir  tribe 
ig,  been 
3m  fronr 
nth   the 
id  goods 
}  Snakes 
ey  were 
1  among 
d    them 
diligence 
izie,  but 
the  two 
1  saddle 
ving  be- 
le  white 
les,  was, 
all  pres- 
peditioii 

bis  rn\%0 
iru  trav- 
him  ac* 
country, 
ly  mate- 
t  of  the 
anderers 


from  the  main  expedition  .of  Mr.  Hunt,  who, 
afler  having  had  their  respective  shares  of  ad- 
ventures and  mishaps,  had  fortunately  come  to- 
gether at  this  place.  Three  of  these  men  were 
Turcotte,  La  Chapelle,  and  Francis  Landry ; 
the  three  Canadian  voyageurs  who,  it  may  be 
recollected,  had  left  Mr.  Crooks  in  February,  in 
the  neighborhood  of  Snake  River,  being  dis- 
mayed by  the  increasing  hardships  of  the  jour- 
ney, and  fearful  of  perishing  of  hunger.  They 
had  returned  to  a  Snake  encampment,  where 
they  passed  the  residue  of  the  winter. 

Early  in  the  spring,  being  utterly  destitute, 
and  in  great  extremity,  and  having  worn  out 
the  hospitality  of  the  Snakes,  they  determined 
to  avail  themselves  of  the  buried  treasures  within 
their  knowledge.  They  accordingly  informed 
the  Snake  chieftains  that  they  knew  where  a 
great  quantity  of  goods  had  been  left  in  caches, 
enough  to  enrich  the  whole  tribe ;  and  offered  to 
conduct  them  to  the  place,  on  condition  of  being 
rewarded  with  horses  and  provisions.  The  chief- 
tains pledge'!  their  faith  and  honor  as  great  men 
and  Snakes,  and  the  three  Canadians  conducted 
them  to  the  place  of  deposit  at  the  Caldron  Linn. 
This  is  the  way  that  the  savages  got  knowledge 
of  the  caches,  and  not  by  following  the  tracks  of 
wolves,  as  Mr.  Stuart  had  supposed.  Never  did 
money  diggers  turn  up  a  miser's  hoard  with 
more  eager  delight,  than  did  the  savages  lay 
open  the  treasures  of  the  caches.  Blankets  and 
robes,  brass  trinkets  and  blue  beads  were  drawn 
forth  with  chuckling  exultation,  and  long  strips 
of  scarlet  cloth  produced  yells  of  ecstasy. 


542 


ASTORIA. 


!/: 


,:; 


The  rifling  of  the  caches  effected  a  change  in 
the  fortunes  and  deportment  of  the  whole  party. 
The  Snakes  were  better  clad  and  equipped  than 
ever  were  Snakes  before,  and  the  three  Cana- 
dians, suddenly  finding  themselves  with  horse  to 
ride  and  weapon  to  wear,  were,  like  beggars  on 
horseback,  ready  to  ride  on  any  wild  scamper. 
An  opportunity  soon  presented.  The  Snakes  de- 
termined on  a  hunting  match  on  the  buffalo  prai- 
n'es,  to  lay  in  a  supply  of  beef,  that  they  might 
live  in  plenty,  as  became  men  of  their  improved 
condition.  The  three  newly  mounted  cavaliers 
must  fain  accompany  them.  They  all  traversed 
the  Rocky  Mountains  in  safety,  descended  to  the 
head  waters  of  the  Missouri,  and  made  great 
havoc  among  the  buffaloes. 

Their  hunting  camp  was  full  of  meat ;  they 
were  gorging  themselves,  like  true  Indians,  with 
present  plenty,  and  drying  and  jerking  great 
quantities  for  a  winter's  supply.  In  the  midst  of 
their  revelry  and  good  cheer,  the  camp  was  sur- 
prised by  the  Blackfeet.  Several  of  the  Snakes 
were  slain  on  the  spot ;  the  residue,  with  their 
three  Canadian  allies,  fled  to  the  mountains, 
stripped  of  horses,  buffalo  meat,  everything  ;  and 
made  their  way  back  to  tiie  old  encampment  on 
Snake  River,  poorer  than  ever,  but  esteeming 
themselves  fortunate  in  having  escaped  with  their 
lives.  They  had  not  been  long  there  when  the 
Canadians  were  cheered  by  the  sight  of  a  com- 
panion in  misfortune,  Dubreuil,  the  poor  voyageur 
who  had  left  Mr.  Crooks  in  March,  being  too 
much  exhausted  to  keep  on  with  him.     Not  long 


A   GATHERTNO   OF  STRAGGLERS. 


543 


[lange  in 
le  party, 
ped  than 
le  Cana- 

horae  to 
^gars  on 
scamper, 
lakeft  de- 
Falo  prai- 
ley  might 
improved 

cavaliers 
traversed 
ed  to  the 
ide    great 

teat;  they 
lians,  with 
iiig   great 
midst  of 
was  8ur- 
he  Snakes 
vrith  their 
nountains, 
ling ;  and 
apment  on 
esteeming 
with  their 
when  the 
of  a  com- 
voyageur 
being   too 
Not  long 


afterwards,  three  other  straggling  members  of  the 
main  expedition  made  their  appearance.  These 
were  Carson,  St.  Michael,  and  Pierre  Delaunay, 
three  of  the  trappers  who,  in  company  with 
Pierre  Detay^,  had  been  left  among  the  moun- 
tains by  Mr.  Hunt,  to  trap  beaver,  in  the  preced- 
ing month  of  September.  They  had  departed 
&om  the  main  body  well  armed  and  provided, 
with  horses  to  ride,  and  horses  to  carry  the  peltries 
they  were  to  collect.  They  came  wandering  into 
the  Snake  camp  as  ragged  and  destitute  as  their 
predecessors.  It  appears  that  they  had  finished 
their  trapping,  and  were  making  their  way  in  the 
spring  to  the  Missouri,  when  they  were  met  and. 
attacked  by  a  powerful  band  of  the  all-pervading 
Crows.  They  made  a  desperate  resistance,  and 
killed  seven  of  the  savages,  but  were  overpowered 
by  numbers.  Pierre  Detay^  was  slain,  the  rest 
were  robbed  of  horses  and  effects,  and  obliged  to 
turn  back,  when  they  fell  in  with  their  old  com- 
panions, as  already  mentioned. 

"We  should  observe,  that  at  the  heels  of  Pierre 
Pelaunay  came  draggling  an  Indian  wife,  whom 
he  had  picked  up  in  his  wanderings ;  having 
grown  weary  of  celibacy  among  the  savages. 

The  whole  seven  of  this  forlorn  fraternity  of 
adventurers,  thus  accidently  congregated  on  the 
banks  of  Snake  River,  were  making  arrangements 
once  more  to  cross  the  mountains,  when  some 
Indian  scouts  brought  word  of  the  approach  of 
the  little  band  headed  by  John  Reed. 

The  latter,  having  heard  the  several  stories  ot 
these  wanderers,  took  them  all  into  his  party,  and 


644 


ASTORIA. 


i!  I'l,    "* 


m 


!   i 


set  out  for  the  Caldron  Linn,  to  clear  out  two  or 
three  of  the  caches  which  had  not  been  revealed 
to  the  Indians. 

At  that  place  he  met  with  Robinson,  the  Ken- 
tucky veteran,  who,  with  his  two  comrades, 
Rezner  and  Hoback,  had  remained  there  when 
Mr.  Stuart  went  on.  Tlus  adventurous  trio  had 
been  trapping  higher  up  the  river,  but  Hobinsou 
liad  come  down  in  a  canoe,  to  await  the  expected 
arrival  of  the  party,  and  obtain  horses  and  equip- 
ments. He  told  Reed  the  story  of  the  robbery 
of  his  party  by  the  Arapahays,  but  it  differed,  in 
some  particulars,  from  the  account  given  by  him 
to  Mr.  Stuart  In  that,  he  had  represented  Cass 
as  having  shamefully  deserted  his  companions  in 
their  extremity,  carrying  off  with  him  a  horse ; 
in  the  one  now  given,  he  spoke  of  him  as  having 
been  killed  in  the  affray  with  the  Arapahays. 
This  discrepancy,  of  which,  of  course,  Reed  could 
have  had  no  knowledge  at  the  time,  concurred 
with  other  circumstances,  to  occasion  afterwards 
some  mysterious  speculations  and  dark  surmises 
as  to  the  real  fate  of  Cass ;  but  as  no  substantial 
grounds  were  ever  adduced  for  them,  we  forbear 
to  throw  any  deeper  shades  into  this  story  of  suf- 
ferings in  the  wilderness. 

Mr.  Reed,  having  gathered  the  remainder  of  the 
goods  &om  the  caches,  put  himself  at  the  head 
of  his  party,  now  augmented  by  the  seven  men 
thus  casually  picked  up,  and  the  squaw  of  Pierre 
Delaunay,  and  made  his  way  successfully  to 
M'Kenzie's  Post,  on  the  waters  of  the  Shahaptan. 


::!;      M 


1^0  or 

ivealed 

I  Ken- 

arades, 
when 

rio  bad 

obinson 

xpected 

I  equip- 

robbery 

fered,  in 
by  bim 

ted  Cass 

nions  in 

1  horse; 

18  having 

•apabays. 

jed  could 

oncurred 
irwards 
surmises 
ibstanUal 
forbear 
•y  of  sut- 
ler of  the 
[the  head 
Iven  men 
)f  Pierre 
Isfully    to 
sibaptan. 


CHAPTER  Lin. 

jFTER  the  departure  of  the  different 
detachments,  or  brigades,  as  they  are 
called  by  the  fur  traders,  the  Beaver 
prepared  for  her  voyage  along  the  coast,  and  her 
visit  to  the  Russian  establishment,  at  New  Arch- 
angel, where  she  was  to  carry  supplies.  It  had 
been  determined  in  the  council  of  partners  at 
Astoria,  that  Mr.  Hunt  should  embark  in  this 
vessel,  for  the  purpose  of  acquainting  himself 
with  the  coasting  trade,;  and  of  making  arrange- 
ments with  the  commander  of  the  Russian  post, 
and  that  he  should  be  relanded  in  October,  at 
Astoria,  by  the  Beaver,  on  her  way  to  the  Sand- 
wich Islands  and  Canton. 

The  Beaver  put  to  sea  in  the  month  of  August. 
Her  departure,  and  that  of  the  various  brigades, 
left  the  fortress  of  Astoria  but  slightly  garrisoned. 
Tliis  was  soon  perceived  by  some  of  the  Indian 
tribes,  and  the  consequence  was,  increased  inso- 
lence of  deportment,  and  a  disposition  to  hostility. 
It  was  now  the  fishing  season,  when  the  tribes 
from  the  northern  coast  drew  into  the  neighbor- 
hood of  the  Columbia.  These  were  warlike  and 
perfidious  in  their  dispositions ;  and  noted  for 
their  attempts  to  surprise  trading  ships.  Among 
ihem  were  numbers  of  the  Neweetees,  the  fero- 

35 


546 


ASTORIA, 


cious  trib**  that  massacred  the  crew  of  the  Ton^ 
quin. 

Great  precautions,  therefore,  were  taken  at  the 
factory,  to  guard  against  surprise  while  these 
dangerons  intruders  were  in  the  vicinity.  Gal- 
leries were  constructed  inside  of  the  palisades; 
the  bastions  were  heightened,  and  sentinels  were 
posted  day  and  night.  Fortunately,  the  Chinooks 
and  other  tribes  resident  in  the  vicinity  manifested 
the  most  pacific  disposition.  Old  Comcomly,  who 
held  sway  over  them,  was  a  shrewd  calculator. 
He  was  aware  of  the  advantages  of  having  the 
whites  as  neighbors  and  allies,  and  of  the  con- 
sequence derived  to  himself  and  his  people  from 
acting  as  intermediate  traders  between  them  and 
the  distant  tribes.  He  had,  therefore,  by  this 
time,  become  a  firm  friend  of  the  Astorians,  and 
fbrmed  a  kind  of  barrier  between  them  and  the 
hostile  intruders  from  the  north. 

The  summer  of  1812  passed  away  without  any 
of  the  hostilities  that  had  been  apprehended  ;  the 
Neweetees,  and  other  dangerous  visitors  to  the 
neighborhood,  finished  their  fishing  and  returned 
home,  and  the  inmates  of  the  factory  once  more 
felt  secure  from  attack. 

It  now  became  necessary  to  guard  against 
ot^er  evils.  The  season  of  scarcity  arrived,  which 
commences  in  October,  and  lasts  until  the  end  of 
January.  To  provide  for  the  support  of  the  gar- 
rison, the  shallop  was  employed  to  forage  about 
the  shores  of  the  river.  A  number  of  the  men, 
also,  under  the  command  of  some  of  the  clerks^ 
irere  sent  to  quarter  themselves  on  the  banks  of 


GLOO)fr  APPREHEr^SlONS. 


547 


le 


Ton« 


n  at  the 
le   tbese 
J,     Gal- 
lalisades ; 
els  were 
Chinooks 
lanifested 
unlv,  who 
alculator. 
aving  the 

the  con- 
ople  from 

them  and 
5,  by  tVus 

rians,  and 
and  the 

ithout  any 
jnded;  the 

>r8  to  the 
returned 

once  more 

_id   against 
kved,  which 
1  the  end  of 
|of  the  gar. 
jrage  abou\ 
)f  the  men, 
the  derka, 
le  banks  of 


the  Wollan»at  (the  Multnomah  of  Lewis  and 
Clark),  a  fine  river  which  disembogues  itself  into 
tlie  Columbia,  about  sixty  miles  above  Astoria. 
The  country  bordering  on  the  river  is  finely  diver- 
sified with  prairies  and  hills,  and  forests  of  oak, 
ash,  maple  and  cedar.  It  abounded,  at  that 
time,  with  elk  and  deer,  and  the  streams  were 
well  stocked  with  beaver.  Here  the  party,  after 
supplying  their  own  wants,  were  enabled  to  pack 
up  quantities  of  dried  meat,  and  send  it  by  canoea 
to  Astoria. 

The  month  of  October  elapsed  without  the 
return  of  the  Beaver.  November,  December, 
Janurry,  passed  away,  and  still  nothing  was  seen 
or  heard  of  her.  Gloomy  apprehensions  now 
began  to  be  entertained :  she  might  have  been 
wrecked  in  the  course  of  her  coasting  voyage,  or 
surprised,  like  the  Tonquin,  by  some  of  the  treach- 
erous tribes  of  the  north. 

No  one  indulged  more  in  these  apprehensions 
than  M'Dougal,  who  had  now  the  charge  of  the 
establishment.  He  no  longer  evinced  the  bus- 
tling confidence  and  buoyancy  which  once  charac- 
terized him.  Command  seemed  to  have  lost  its 
charms  for  him,  or  rather,  he  gave  way  to  the 
most  abject  despondency,  decrying  the  whole  en- 
terprise, magnifying  every  untoward  circumstance, 
and  foreboding  nothing  but  evil. 

AVhile  in  this  moody  state,  he  was  surprised, 
on  the  16th  of  January,  by  the  sudden  appear- 
ance of  M'Kenzie,  wayworn  and  weather-beaten 
oy  a  long  wintry  journey  from  his  post  on  the 
Shahaptan,  and  with  a  face  the  very  frontispieoe 


548 


ASTORIA. 


.  li, 


for  a  volume  of  misfortune.  M'Kenzie  had  been 
heartily  disgusted  and  disappointed  at  his  post 
It  was  in  the  midst  of  the  Tushepaws,  a  powerful 
and  warlike  nation,  divided  into  many  tribes,  under 
different  chiefs,  who  possessed  innumerable  horses, 
but,  not  having  tuned  their  attention  to  beaver 
trapping,  had  no  furs  to  offer.  According  to 
M'Kenzie,  they  were  but  a  "  rascally  tribe ; "  ftom 
which  we  may.  infer  that  they  were  prone  to  con- 
sult their  own  interests,  more  than  comported 
with  the  interests  of  a  greedy  Indian  trader. 

Game  being  scarce,  he  was  obliged  to  rely,  for 
the  mo3t  part,  on  horse-flesh  for  subsistence,  and 
the  Indians  discovering  his  necessities,  adopted  a 
policy  usual  in  civilized  trade,  and  raised  the 
price  of  horses  to  an  exorbitant  rate,  knowing 
that  he  and  his  men  must  eat  or  die.  In  this 
way,  the  goods  he  had  brought  to  trade  for  beaver- 
skins,  were  likely  to  be  bartered  for  horse-flesh, 
and  all  the  proceeds  devoured  upon  the  spot. 

He  had  dispatched  trappers  in  various  direc- 
tions, but  the  countrv  around  did  not  offer  more 
beaver  than  his  own  station.  In  this  emer- 
gency he  began  to  think  of  abandoning  his  un- 
profitable post,  sending  his  goods  to  the  posts  of 
Clarke  and  David  Stuart,  who  could  make  a 
better  use  of  them,  as  they  were  iu  a  good  beaver 
country,  and  returning  with  his  party  to  Astoria, 
to  seek  some  better  destination.  With  this  view 
he  repaired  to  the  post  of  Mr.  Clarke,  to  hold  a 
consultation.  While  the  two  partners  were  in 
iX)nference  in  Mr.  Clarke's  wigwam,  an  unexpected 
visitor  came  bustling  in  upon  them. 


A   RASH  RESOLUTION. 


519 


ad  been 
lis  post 
[)Owerful 
js,  under 
B  horses, 
o  beaver 
rding  to 
torn 


» 


G  to  con- 

omported 

der. 

►  rely,  for 

;ence,  and 

adopted  a 

aised   the 

knowing 

,.     In  this 

I 

jr  beaver- 

Lorse-flesh, 

spot. 

ous  direc- 

offer  more 

his    emer- 

his  un- 

posts  of 

make   a; 

»od  beaver 

Astoria, 

this  view 

to  hold  a 

s  were  in 

nexpected 


H 


This  was  Mr.  John  George  M'Tavish,  a  part- 
ner ot  the  Northwest  Company,  who  had  charge 
of  the  rival  trading  posts  established  in  that 
neighborhood.  Mr.  M'Tavish  was  the  delighted 
messenger  of  bad  news.  He  had  been  to  Lake 
"Winnipeg,  where  he  received  an  express  from 
Canada,  containing  the  declaration  of  war,  and 
President  Madison's  proclamation,  which  he  hand- 
ed with  the  most  officious  complaisance  to  Messrs. 
Clarke  and  M'Kenzie.  He  moreover  told  them 
that  he  had  received  a  fresh  supply  of  goods  from 
the  Northwest  posts  on  the  other  side  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  and  was  prepared  for  vigorous 
opposition  to  the  establishment  of  the  American 
Company.  He  capped  the  climax  of  this  oblig- 
ing, but  belligerent  intelligence,  by  informing 
them  that  the  armed  ship,  Isaac  Todd,  was  to  be 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  about  the  begin- 
ning of  March,  to  get  possession  of  the  trade  of 
the  river,  and  that  he  was  ordered  to  join  her 
•here  at  that  time. 

The  receipt  of  this  news  determined  M'Kenzie. 
He  immediately  returned  to  the  Shahaptan,  broke 
up  his  establishment,  deposited  his  goods  in  cache, 
and  hastened  with  all  his  people  to  Astoria. 

The  intelligence  thus  brought,  completed  the 
dismay  of  M'Dougal,  and  seemed  to  produce  a 
complete  confusion  of  mind.  He  held  a  council 
of  war  with  M'Kenzie,  at  which  some  of  the 
elerks  were  present,  but  of  course  had  no  votes. 
They  gave  up  all  hope  cf  maintaining  their  post 
at  Astoria.  The  Beaver  had  probably  been  lost : 
they  could  receive  no  aid  from  the  United  States, 


550 


ABTORIA. 


mm 


':! 


i-ij 


as  all  the  ports  would  be  blockaded.  From  Eng- 
land nothing  could  be  expected  but  hostility.  It 
was  determined  therefore,  to  abandon  the  estab- 
lishment in  the  course  of  the  following  spring, 
and  return  across  the  Rocky  Mountains. 

In  pursuance  of  this  resolution,  they  suspended 
all  trade  with  the  natives,  except  for  provisions, 
having  already  more  peltries  than  they  could 
carry  away,  and  having  need  of  all  the  goods  for 
the  clothing  and  subsistence  of  their  people,  dur- 
ing the  remainder  of  their  sojourn,  and  on  their 
journey  across  the  mountains.  This  intention  of 
abandoning  Astoria  was,  however,  kept  secret 
from  the  men,  lest  they  should  at  once  give  up 
all  labor,  and  become  restless  and  insubordinate. 

In  the  meantime,  M'Kenzie  set  off  for  his  post 
at  the  Shahaptan,  to  get  his  goodd  from  the 
caches,  and  buy  horses  and  provisions  with  them 
for  the  caravan  across  the  mountains.  He  was 
charged  with  dispatches  from  M'Dougal  to  Messrs. 
Stuart  and  Clarke,  apprising  them  of  the  intended 
migration,  that  they  might  make  timely  prepara- 
tions. 

M'Kenzie  was  accompanied  by  two  of  the 
clerks,  Mr.  John  Reed,  the  Irishman,  and  Mr. 
A.lfred  Seton,  of  New  York.  They  embarked  in 
two  canoes,  manned  by  seventeen  men,  and  as- 
cended the  river  without  any  incident  of  import- 
ance, until  they  arrived  in  the  eventful  neighbor- 
hood of  the  rapids.  They  made  the  portage  of  the 
narrows  and  the  falls  early  in  the  afternoon,  and, 
naving  partaken  of  a  scanty  meal,  had  now  a  long 
evening  on  their  hands. 


4  DKN  OF  RUFFIANS. 


551 


m  Eng- 

ity.    It 
5  estab* 

spring, 

ispended 

'oviaions 

jy   could 

roods  for 

>ple,  dur. 

on  their 

ention  of 

pt   secret 

I  give  up 

bordinate. 

>r  his  post 

from    the 
ith  them 
He  was 

to  Messrs. 
intended 
prepara- 

ro   of  the 
„  and  Mr. 

ibarked  in 
In,  and  as* 

of  import- 
ll  neighbor- 
•tage  of  the 

noon,  and, 
Inow  a  long 


On  tlie  opposite  side  of  the  river  lay  the 
village  of  Wish-ram,  of  freebooting  renown. 
Here  lived  the  savages  who  had  robbed  and  mal- 
treated Reed,  when  bearing  his  tin  box  of  dis- 
patches. It  was  known  that  the  rifle  of  which 
he  was  despoiled  was  retained  as  a  trophy  at  the 
village.  M'Kenzie  offered  to  cross  the  river,  and 
demand  the  rifle,  if  any  one  would  accompany 
him.  It  was  a  hare-brained  project,  for  these 
villages  were  noted  for  the  ruffian  character  of 
their  inhabitants ;  yet  two  volunteers  promptly 
stepped  forward;  Alfred  Seton,  the  clerk,  and 
Joe  de  la  Pierre,  the  cook.  The  trio  soon 
reached  the  opposite  side  of  the  river.  On  land- 
ing, they  freshly  primed  their  rifles  and  pistols. 
A  path  winding  for  about  a  hundred  yards  among 
rocks  and  crags,  led  to  the  village.  No  notice 
seemed  to  be  taken  of  their  approach.  Not  a 
solitary  being,  man,  woman,  or  child,  greeted  them. 
The  very  dogs,  those  noisy  pests  of  an  Indian 
town,  kept  silence.  On  entering  the  village,  a 
.  boy  made  his  appearance,  and  pointed  to  a  house 
of  larger  dimensions  than  the  rest  They  had  to 
stoop  to  enter  it ;  as  soon  as  they  had  passed  the 
threshold,  the  narrow  passage  behind  them  was 
filled  up  by  a  sudden  rush  of  Indians,  who  had 
before  kept  out  of  sight.  ^ 

M'Kenzie  and  his  companions  found  them- 
selves in  a  rude  chamber  *  of  about  twenty-five 
feet  long,  and  twenty  wide.  A  bright  fire  was 
blazing  at  one  end,  near  which  sat  the  chief, 
about  sixty  years  old.  A  large  number  of  In- 
iians,  wrapped  in  buffalo  robes,  were  squatted  in 


552 


AST  or:  A. 


rows,  three  deep,  forming  a  semicircle  round  three 
sides  of  the  room.  A  single  glance  around  suf- 
ficed to  show  them  the;  grim  and  dangerous  as- 
sembly into  which  they  had  intruded,  and  that 
all  retreat  was  cut  off  by  the  mass  which  blocked 
up  the  entrance. 

The  chief  pointed  to  the  vacant  side  of  the 
room  opposite  to  the  door,  and  motioned  foi 
them  to  take  their  seats.  They  complied.  A 
dead  pause  ensued.  The  grim  warriors  around 
sat  like  statues ;  each  muffled  in  his  robe,  with 
his  fierce  eyes  bent  on  the  intruders.  The  lat- 
ter felt  they  were  in  a  perilous  predicament 

"  KSep  your  eyes  on  tb<^  chief  while  I  am  ad- 
dressing him,"  said  M'Kenzie  to  his  companions. 
'*  Should  he  give  any  sign  to  his  band,  shoot  him, 
and  make  for  the  door." 

M'Kenzie  advanced,  and  offered  the  pipe  of 
peace  to  the  chief,  but  it  was  refused.  He  then 
made  a  regular  speech,  explaining  the  object  of 
their  visit,  and  proposing  to  give  in  exchange  for 
the  rifie  two  blankets,  an  axe,  some  beads  and. 
tobacco. 

When  he  had  done,  the  chief  rose,  began  to 
address  him  in  a  low  voice,  but  soon  became  loud 
and  violent,  and  ended  by  working  himself  up 
into  a  furious  passion.  He  upbraided  the  white 
men  for  their  sordid  conduct  in  passing  and  re- 
passing through  their'  neighborhood,  without  giv- 
ing them  a  blanket  or  any  other  article  of  goods, 
merely  because  they  had  no  furs  to  barter  in 
exchange,  and  he  alluded,  with  menaces  of  ven- 
geance, to  the  death  of  the  Indian  killed  by  the 
«rhites  in  the  skirmish  at  the  falls. 


MEETING   WITH  NORTII WESTERS.       553 


id  three 
md  suf- 
ous  as- 
nd  that 
blocked 

I  of  the 
>ned  foi 
Lied.  A 
}  around 
)be,  with 
The  lat- 
ent 

[am  ad- 
npauions. 
boot  him, 

pipe  of 
He  then 
object  of 
hange  for 
eads  and. 

began  to 
»me  loud 
imself  up 
the  white 
y  and  re- 
ihout  giv- 
of  goods, 
barter  in 
s  of  ven- 
id  by  the 


Matters  were  verging  to  a  crisis.  It  was 
evident  the  surrounding  savages  were  only  wait- 
ing a  signal  from  the  chief  to  spring  upon  their 
prey.  M'Kenzie  and  his  companions  had  grad- 
ually risen  on  their  feet  during  the  speech,  and 
had  brought  their  rifles  to  a  horizontal  position, 
the  barrels  resting  in  their  left  hands  ;  the  muz- 
zle of  M'Kenzie's  piece  was  within  three  feet  of 
the  speaker's  heart.  They  cocked  their  rifles; 
the  dick  of  the  locks  for  a  moment  suffused  the 
dark  cheek  of  the  savage,  and  there  was  a  pause. 
They  coolly,  but  promptly,  advanced  to  the  door ; 
the  Indians  fell  back  in  awe,  and  suffered  them 
to  pass.  The  sun  was  just  setting,  as  they 
emerged  from  this  dangerous  den.  They  took 
the  precaution  to  keep  along  the  tops  of  the 
rocks  as  much  as  possible  on  their  way  back  to 
the  canoe,  and  reached  their  camp  in  safety,  con- 
gratulating themselves  on  their  escape,  and  feel- 
ing no  desire  to  make  a  second  visit  to  the  grim 
warriors  of  Wish-ram. 

M'Kenzie  and  his  party  resumed  their  journey 
the  next  morning.  At  some  distance  above  the 
falls  of  the  Columbia,  they  observed  two  bark 
canoes,  filled  with  white  men,  coming  down  the 
river,  to  the  full  chant  of  a  set  of  Canadian  voy- 
ageurs.  A  parley  ensued.  It  was  a  detachment 
of  Northwesters,  under  the  command  of  Mr.  John 
George  M'Tavish,  bound,  ftill  of  song  and  spirit, 
to  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia,  to  await  the  ar- 
rival of  the  Isaac  Todd. 

Mr.  M'Kenzie  and  M'Tavish  came  to  a  halt, 
and  landing,  encamped  together  for  the  night 


554 


ASTORIA. 


J 


The  voyageurs  of  either  party  hailed  each  other 
as  brothers,  and  old  ^^  comrades,"  and  they 
mingled  together  as  if  united  by  one  common 
interest,  instead  of  belonging  to  rival  companies, 
and  trading  under  hostile  flags.  ' 

In  the  morning  they  proceeded  on  their  dif- 
ferent ways,  in  style  corresponding  to  their  dif- 
ferent fortunes :  the  one  toiling  painfully  against 
the  stream,  the  other  sweeping  down  gayly  with 
the  current. 

M'Kenzie  arrived  safely  at  his  deserted  post 
on  the  Shahaptan,  but  found,  to  his  chagrin,  that 
his  caches  had  been  discovered  and  rifled  by  the 
Indians.  Here  was  a  dilemma,  for  on  the  stolen 
goods  he  had  depended  to  purchase  horses  of  the 
Indians.  He  sent  out  men  in  all  directions  to 
endeavor  to  discover  the  thieves,  and  dispatched 
Mr.  Keed  to  the  posts  of  Messrs.  Clarke  and 
David  Stuart,  with  the  letters  of  Mr.  M'Dougal. 

The  resolution  announced  in  these  letters,  to 
break  up  and  depart  from  Astoria,  was  con^ 
demned  by  both  Clarke  and  Stuart.  Tiiese  two 
gentlemen  had  been  very  successful  at  their  posts, 
and  considered  it  rash  and  pusillanimous  to 
abandon,  on  the  first  difficulty,  an  enterprise  of 
such  great  cost  and  ample  promise.  They  made 
no  arrangements,  therefore,  for  leaving  the  coun« 
try,  but  acted  with  a  view  to  the  maintenance  of 
their  new  and  prosperous  establishments. 

The  regular  time  approached,  when  the  part- 
ners of  the  interior  posts  were  to  rendezvous  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Wallah- Wallah,  on  their  way 
to  Astoria,  with  the  peltries  they  had  collected 


THEFT  OF  THE  CUP, 


555 


1  otiher 
I  they 
ommon 

leir  dif* 

iieir  dif- 

against 

^ly  with 

bed  post 
rrin,  that 
i  by  the 
lie  stolen 
es  of  the 
ctiotis  to 
ispatched 
arke  and 
Dougal. 
etters,  to 
was   con- 
?lie8e  two 
leir  posts, 
mous    to 
jrprise  of 
ley  made 
the  ooun- 
enanoe  of 

the  part- 
ezvous  at 
their  way 
oollectedi 


Mr.  Clarke  accordingly  packed  all  his  i\irs  on 
twenty-eight  horses,  and,  leaving  a  clerk  and  four 
men  to  take  charge  of  the  post,  departed  on  the 
25th  of  May  with  the  residue  of  his  force. 

Ou  the  30th,  he  arrived  at  the  confluence  of 
the  Pavion  and  Lewis  rivers,  where  he  had  left 
his  barge  and  canoes,  in  the  guardianship  of  the 
old  Pierced-nosed  chieftain.  That  dignitary  had 
acquitted  himself  more  faithfully  of  his  charge 
than  Mr.  Clarke  had  expected,  and  the  canoes 
were  found  in  very  tolerable  order.  Some  re- 
pairs were  necessary,  and,  while  they  were  mak-* 
ing,  the  party  encamped  close  by  the  village. 
Having  had  repeated  and  vexatious  proofs  of  the 
pilfering  propensities  of  this  tribe  during  his 
former  visit,  Mr.  Clarke  ordered  that  a  wary  eye 
should  be  kept  upon  tliem. 

He  was  a  tall,  good-looking  man,  and  some- 
what given  to  pomp  and  circumstance,  which 
made  him  an  object  of  note  in  the  eyes  of  the 
wondering  savages.  He  was  stately,  too,  in  his 
appointments,  and  had  a  silver  goblet  or  drink- 
ing cup,  out  of  which  he  would  drink  with  a 
magnificent  air,  and  then  lock  it  up  in  a  large 
garde  vin,  which  accompanied  him  in  his  travels, 
and  stood  in  his  tent  This  goblet  had  orig- 
inally been  sent  as  a  present  from  Mr.  Astor  to 
Mr.  M'Kay,  the  partner  who  had  unfortunately 
been  blown  up  in  the  Tonquin.  As  it  reached 
Astoria  after  the  departure  of  that  gentleman,  it 
bad  remained  in  the  possession  of  Mr.  Clarke. 

A  silver  goblet  was  too  glittering  a  prize  not 
10  catcU  the  eye  of  a  Pierced-nose.     It  was  like 


556 


ASTORJA. 


the  shining  tin  case  of  John  Reed  Sach  a 
wonder  had  never  been  seen  in  the  hmd  before. 
The  Indians  talked  about  it  to  one  another. 
They  marked  the  care  with  which  it  was  depos- 
ited in  the  garde  vin^  like  a  relic  in  its  shrine, 
and  concluded  that  it  must  be  a  "  great  medicine.*' 
Tiiat  night  Mr.  Clarke  neglected  to  lock  up  his 
treasure  ;  in  the  morning  the  sacred  casket  was 
open  —  the  precious  relic  gone  I 

Clarke  was  now  outrageous.  All  the  past 
vexations  that  he  had  suffered  from  this  pilfering 
community  rose  to  mind,  and  he  threatened, 
that,  unless  the  goblet  was  promptly  returned,  he 
would  hang  the  thief,  should  he  eventually  dis- 
cover him.  The  day  passed  away,  however, 
without  the  restoration  of  the  cup.  At  night 
sentinels  were  secretly  posted  about  the  camp. 
With  all  their  vigilance,  a  Pierced-nose  contrived 
to  get  into  the  camp  unperceived,  and  to  load 
himself  with  booty ;  it  was  only  on  his  retreat 
that  he  was  discovered  and  taken. 

At  daybreak  the  culprit  was  brought  to  trial, 
and  promptly  convicted.  He  stood  responsible 
for  all  the  spoliations  of  the  camp,  the  precious 
goblet  among  the  number,  and  Mr.  Clarke  passed 
sentence  of  death  upon  him. 

A  gibbet  was  accordingly  constructed  of  oars  : 
the  chief  of  the  village  and  his  people  were  as- 
sembled, and  the  culprit  was  produced,  with  hia 
legs  and  arms  pinioned.  Clarke  then  made  a 
harangue.  He  reminded  the  tribe  of  the  ben- 
efits he  had  bestowed  upon  them  during  his 
former  visits,  and  the  many  thefts  and  other  mis- 


A19  EXECUTION. 


657 


Socb   a 
I  before. 

another. 
Ets  depos- 
s  shrine, 
ledicine." 
;k  up  hia 
^ket  waa 

the  past 
3  pilfering 
lireatened, 
turned,  ho 
tually  dis- 

however, 

At  night 
the  camp. 
)  contrived 
Ld  to  load 

lis  retreat 

to  trial, 
esponsible 
e  precious 
irke  passed 

• 

d  of  oars : 
e  were  as- 
d,  with  hia 
jn  made  a 
►f  the  ben- 
during  hia 
other  mis- 


iJeeds  which  he  had  overlooked.  The  prisouer, 
especially,  had  always  been  peculiarly  well  treated 
by  the  white  men,  but  had  repeatedly  been  guilty 
of  pilfering.  He  was  to  be  punished  for  his  own 
misdeeds,  an^  as  a  warning  to  his  tribe. 

The  Indians  now  gathered  round  Mr.  Clarke, 
and  interceded  for  the  culprit.  They  were  wil- 
ling he  should  be  punished  severely,  but  'mplored 
that  his  life  might  be  spared.  The  companions, 
too,  of  Mr.  Clarke,  considered  the  sentence  too 
severe,  and  advised  him  to  mitigate  it;  but  he 
was  inexorable.  He  was  not  naturally  a  stem  or 
cruel  man  ;  but  from  his  boyhood  he  had  lived 
in  the  Indian  country  among  Indian  traders,  and 
held  the  life  of  a  savage  extremely  cheap.  Ho 
was,  moreover,  a  firm  believer  in  the  doctrine  of 
intimidation. 

Farnham,  a  clerk,  a  tall  "  Green  Mountain 
boy  "  from  Vermont,  who  had  been  robbed  of  a 
pistol,  acted  as  executioner.  The  signal  waa 
given,  and  the  poor  Pierced-nose  resisting,  strug- 
gling, and  screaming,  in  the  most  frightful  man- 
ner, was  launched  into  eternity.  The  Indians 
stood  round  gazing  in  silence  and  mute  awe,  but 
made  no  attempt  to  oppose  the  execution,  nor 
testified  any  emotion  when  it  was  over.  They 
locked  up  their  feelings  within  their  bosoms 
until  an  opportunity  should  arrive  to  gratify  them 
with  a  bloody  act  of  vengeance. 

To  say  nothing  of  the  needless  severity  of 
this  act,  its  impolicy  was  glaringly  obvious.  Mr. 
M'Lennan  and  three  men  were  to  return  to  the 
post  with   the  horses,  their   loads  having  been 


558 


ASTORIA. 


ml 

■111       !i 


II' 

m 


.ii 


transferred  to  the  canoes.  They  would  have  to 
pass  through  a  tract  of  country  infested  by  this 
tribe,  who  were  all  horsemen  and  hard  ridersi 
and  might  pursue  them  to  take  vengeance  for  the 
death  of  their  comrade.  M'Lennan,  however,  waa 
a  resolute  fellow,  and  made  light  of  all  dangers. 
He  and  his  three  men  were  present  at  the  exe« 
cution,  and  set  off  as  soon  as  life  was  extinct  in 
the  victim ;  but,  to  use  the  words  of  one  of  their 
comrades,  '*  they  did  not  let  the  grass  grow  under 
the  heels  of  their  horses,  as  they  clattered  out  of 
the  Pierced-nose  country,"  and  were  glad  to  find 
themselves  in  safety  at  the  post. 

Mr.  Clarke  and  his  party  embarked  about  the 
same  time  in  tlieir  canoes,  and  early  on  the  fol- 
lowing day  reached  the  mouth  c^  the  Wallah- 
Wallah,  where  they  found  Messrs.  Stuart  and 
M'Keuzie  awaiting  them ;  the  latter  having  re- 
covered part  of  the  goods  stolen  from  his  cache. 
Clarke  informed  them  of  the  signal  punishment 
he  had  infiictod  on  the  Pierced-nose,  evidently 
expecting  to  excito  their  admiration  by  such  a 
hardy  act  of  justice,  performed  in  the  very  midst 
of  the  Indian  country,  but  was  mortified  at  find- 
mg  it  strongly  censured  as  inhuman,  unnecessary, 
and  likely  to  provoke  hostilities. 

The  parties  thus  united  formed  a  squadron  of 
two  boats  and  six  canoes,  with  which  they  per- 
formed their  voyage  in  safety  down  the  river,  and 
Sir  rived  at  Astoria  on  the  12  th  of  June,  bringing 
with  them  a  valuable  stock  of  peltries. 

About  ten  days  previously,  the  brigade  which 
bad  been  quartered  on  the  banks  of  the  Wolla* 


PELTRIES  FROM  THE   WOLLAMUT.     6*»9 


d  have  to 
«d  by  thia 
upd  riders, 
ice  for  the 
wever,  was 
I  dangers. 
t  the  exe- 
extinct  in 
wQ  of  their 
jrow  under 
jred  out  of 
rlad  to  find 

1  about  the 
3n  the  fol- 
he  Wallah- 
Stuart  and 
having  re- 
i  his  cache, 
punishment 
e,  evidently 
,  by  such  a 
B  very  midst 
ied  at  find- 
unnecessary, 

squadron  of 
3h  they  per- 
he  river,  and 
me,  bringing 

B. 

rigade  which 
•  the  WoUa- 


milt,  had  arrived  with  numerous  packs  of  beaver, 
tlie  result  of  a  few  montlis'  sojourn  on  that 
river.  These  were  the  first  fruits  of  the  enter- 
pri5<e,  gathered  by  men  as  yet  mere  strangers  in 
the  land;  but  they  were  such  as  to  give  sub- 
stantial grounds  for  sanguine  anticipations  oi 
profit,  when  the  country  should  be  more  com 
pletely  explored,  and  the  trade  established. 


CHAPTER  LIV. 


Li 


HE  partners  found  Mr.  M*Dougal  in  all 
the  bustle  of  preparation  ;  having  about 
nine  days  previously  announced  at  the 
factory,  his  intention  of  breaking  up  the  estab- 
lishment, and  fixed  upon  the  Ist  of  July  for  the 
time  of  departure.  Messrs.  Stuart  and  Clarke 
felt  highly  displeased  at  his  taking  so  precipitate 
a  step,  without  waiting  for  their  concurrence, 
wiien  he  must  have  known  that  their  arrival 
could  not  be  far  distant. 

Indeed,  the  whole  conduct  of  Mr.  M'Dougal 
was  such  Ks  to  awaken  stron^^  doubts  as  to  his 
loyal  devotion  to  the  cause.  His  old  sympathies 
with  the  Northwest  Company  seem  to  have  re- 
vived. He  had  received  M'Tavish  and  his  party 
with  uncalled  for  hospitality,  as  though  they  were 
friends  and  allies,  instead  of  being  a  party  of 
observation,  come  to  reconnoitre  the  state  of 
affairs  at  Astoria,  and  to  await  the  arrival  of  a 
hostile  ship.  Had  they  been  left  to  themselves, 
they  would  have  been  starved  off  for  want  of 
provisions,  or  driven  away  by  the  Chinooks,  who 
only  wanted  a  signal  from  the  factory  to  treat 
them  as  intruders  and  enemies.  M'Dougal,  on 
the  contrary,  had  supplied  them  from  the  stores 


TRANSACTIONS  AT  ASTORIA, 


561 


lougal  in  all 
aving  about 
need  at  the 
>  the  estab- 
July  for  the 
and  Clarke 
o  precipitate 
concurrence, 
their  arrival 

M'Dougal 

)ts  a8  to  his 

sympathies 

to  have  re- 

md  his  party 

h  they  were 

a   party  of 

he    state  of 

arrival  of  a 

themselves, 
'or  want  of 
liinooks,  who 
ory  to  treat 
'Don gal,  on 
m  the  stores 


of  the  garrison,  and  had  gained  them  the  favor 
of  the  Indians,  by  treating  them  as  friends. 

Having  set  his  mind  fixedly  on  the  project  of 
breaking  up  the  establishment  at  Astoria,  in  the 
current  year,  M'Dougal  was  sorely  disappointed 
at  finding  that  Messrs.  Stuart  and  Clarke  had 
omitted  to  comply  with  his  request  to  purchase 
horses  and  provisions  for  the  caravan  across  the 
mountains.  It  was  now  too  late  to  make  the 
necessary  preparations  in  time  for  traversing  the 
mountains  before  winter,  and  the  project  had  to 
be  postponed. 

In  the  meantime,  the  non-arrival  of  the  annual 
ship,  and  the  apprehensions  entertained  of  the 
loss  of  the  Beaver  and  of  Mr.  Hunt,  had  their 
effect  upon  the  minds  of  Messrs.  Stuart  and 
Clarke.  They  began  to  listen  to  the  despond* 
ing  representations  of  M'Dougal^  seconded  by 
M'Kenzie,  who  inveighed  against  their  situation 
as  desperate  and  forlorn  ;  left  to  ■  shift  tor  them- 
selves, or  perish  upon  a  barbarous  coast ;  neg- 
lected by  those  who  sent  them  there,  and  threat- 
ened with  dangers  of  every  kind.  In  this  way 
they  were  brought  to  consent  to  the  plan  of 
abandoning  the  country  in  the  ensuing  year. 

About  this  time,  M'Tavish  applied  at  the  fac- 
tory to  purchase  a  small  supply  of  goods  where- 
with to  trade  his  way  back  to  his  post  on  the 
upper  waters  of  the  Columbia,  having  waited  iu 
vain  for  the  arrival  of  the  Isaac  Todd.  His 
request  brought  on  a  consultation  among  the 
partners.      M'Dougal    urged    that    it   should    be 

complied  with.     He  furthermore  proposed,  that 
36 


I  '1 

I  m 


562 


ASTORIA, 


Ihey  should  give  up  to  M'Tavish,  fbr  a  proper 
consideration,  the  post  on  the  Spokan,  and  all  its 
dependencies,  as  they  had  not  sufficient  goods  on 
hand  to  supply  that  post  themselves,  and  to  keep 
tip  a  competition  with  the  Northwest  Company  in 
the  trade  with  the  neighboring  Indians.  This 
last  representation  has  since  been  proved  incor- 
rect. By  inventories,  it  appears  that  their  stock 
in  hand  for  the  supply  of  the  interior  posts,  was 
superior  to  that  of  the  Northwest  Company ;  so 
that  they  had  nothing  to  fear  from  competition. 

Through  the  influence  of  Messrs,  M'Dougal 
And  M^KenziCj  this  proposition  v/as  adopted,  und 
was  promptly  accepted  by  M'Tavish.  The  mer- 
chandise sold  to  hibi  amounted  to  eight  hundred 
and  fifty-eight  dollars,  to  be  paid  for,  in  the  fol- 
lowing spring,  in  horses,  or  in  any  other  manner 
most  acceptable  to  the  partners  at  that  period. 

This  agreement  being  concluded,  the  partners 
^rmed  their  plans  for  the  year  that  thoy  would 
yet  have  to  pass  in  the  country.  Their  objects 
were^  chiefly^  present  subsistence,  and  the  pur« 
diase  of  horses  for  the  contemplated  journey, 
though  they  were  likewise  to  collect  as  much 
peltries  as  their  diminished  means  would  com- 
mand. Accordingly,  it  was  arranged,  that  David 
Stuart  should  return  to  his  former  post  on  the 
Oakinngan,  and  Mr.  Clarke  should  make  his 
sojourn  among  the  Flatheads.  John  Beed,  the 
sturdy  Hibernian,  was  to  undertake  the  Snake 
River  country,  accompanied  by  Pierre  Dorion 
Rod  Pierre  Delaunay,  as  hunters,  and   Francis 


PLANS  FOR   THE   YEAR. 


563 


a  proper 
ind  a)  I  its 
goods  on 
,d  to  keep 
»mpany  in 
ns.     This 
ved  incor- 
their  stock 
posts,  was 
npany  ;  so 
petition. 
M'Dougal 
lopted,  and 
The  mer- 
it hundred 
in  the  fol- 
ler  manner 
[  period, 
he  partners 
thoy  would 
aeir  objects 
d   the  pur- 
jd  journey  ♦ 
;t  as  much 
vould    corn- 
that  David 
)OSt  on  the 
make  his 
B«ed,  the 
the  Snake 
rre    Dorion 
lid  Francis 


Landry,  Jean  Baptiste  Turcotte,  Andi^  la  Cha« 
pelle,  and  Gilles  le  Clerc,  Canadian  voyageurs. 

Astoria,  however,  was  the  post  about  which 
they  felt  the  greatest  solicitude,  and  on  which 
they  all  more  or  less  depended.  The  maintenance 
of  this  in  safety  throughout  the  coming  year, 
wea,  therefore,  their  grand  consideration.  Mr, 
M'Dougal  was  to  continue  in  command  of  it, 
with  a  party  of  forty  men.  They  would  have 
to  depend  chiefly  upon  the  neighboring  savages 
for  their  subsistence.  These,  at  present,  were 
friendly,  but  it  was  to  be  feared  that,  when  ihey 
should  discover  the  exigencies  of  the  post,  and 
its  real  weakness,  they  might  proceed  to  hostili- 
ties ;  or,  at  any  rate,  might  cease  to  furnish  their 
usual  supplies.  It  was  important,  therefore,  to 
render  the  place  as  independent  as  possible,  of 
the  surrounding  tribes  for  its  support ;  and  it 
was  accordingly  resolved  that  M'Kenzie,  with 
four  hunters,  and  eight  common  men,  should 
winter  in  the  abundant  country  of  WoUamut, 
from  whence  they  might  be  enabled  to  furnish  a 
constant  supply  of  provisions  to  Astoria. 

As  there  was  too  great  a  proportion  of  clerks 
for  the  number  of  privates  in  the  service,  the 
engagements  of  three  of  them,  Ross  Cox,  Ross, 
and  M'Lennan,  were  surrendered  to  them,  and 
they  immediately  enrolled  themselves  in  the  ser- 
rice  of  the  Northwest  Company ;  glad,  no  doubt, 
to  escape  from  what  they  considered  a  sinking 
ship. 

Having  made  all  these  arrangemet  ts,  the  four 
partners,  on  the  first  of  July,  signed  a  formal 


i.i 


664 


ASTORIA. 


manifesto,  stating  the  alarminv  state  of  their 
affairs,  from  the  non-arrival  of  the  annual  ship, 
and  the  absence  and  apprehended  loss  of  the 
Beaver,  theii*  want  of  goods,  their  despair  of 
receiving  any  further  supply,  their  ignorancd  of 
the  coast,  and  their  disappointment  as  to  tLe 
interior  trade,  which  they  pronounced  unequal  to 
the  expenses  incurred,  and  incompetent  to  stand 
against  the  powerful  opposition  of  the  Northwest 
Company.  And  as  by  the  16th  article  of  the 
company's  agreement,  they  were  authorized  to 
abandon  this  undertaking,  and  dissolve  the  con- 
cern, if  before  the  period  of  five  years  it  should 
be  found  unprofitable,  they  now  formally  an- 
nounced their  intention  to  do  so  on  the  1st  day  of 
June,  of  the  ensuing  year,  unless  in  the  interim 
they  should  receive  the  necessary  support  and 
supplies  from  Mr.  Astor,  or  the  stockholders, 
with  orders  to  continue. 

• 

This  instrument,  accompanied  by  private  letters 
of  i^imilar  import,  was  delivered  to  Mr.  M'Tavish, 
V^iio  departed  on  the  5  th  of  July.  He  engaged 
to  forward  the  dispatches  to  Mr.  Astor,  by  the 
usual  winter  express  sent  overload  by  the  North- 
west Company. 

The  manifesto  was  signed  with  great  reluctance 
by  Messrs.  Clarke  and  D.  Stuart,  whose  expe- 
rience by  no  means  juibtified  the  discouraging 
account  given  in  it  of  the  internal  trade,  and 
who  considered  the  main  difficulties  of  exploring 
an  unknown  and  savage  country,  and  of  ascer- 
taining the  best  trading  and  trapping  gro'inds,  in 
a   great   measure  oveicome.     They   were  over- 


n 


f  theit 
il  ship, 
of  the 
ipair  of 
anc6  of 
to  tbe 
Qqual  to 
:o  stand 
jrthwest 
I  of  the 
rized  to 
the  con- 
t  should 
lally  an- 
jt  day  of 
e  interim 
►port  and 
{kholders, 

ite  letters 
li'Tavish, 
I  engaged 
)r,  by  the 
e  Norih- 

teluctance 
)9e  expe- 
[couraging 
Irade,  and 
]  exploring 
of  ascer- 
Iro'^nds,  in 
}ere  over- 


MANIFESTO'  OF  THE  PARTNERS.       565 

ruled,  however,  by  the  urgent  instances  of 
M'Dougal  and  M'Kenzie,  who,  having  resolved 
upon  abandoning  the  enterprise,  were  desirous 
of  making  as  strong  a  case  as  possible  to  excuse 
their  conduct  to  Mr.  Astor  and  to  the  world. 


I' I 

I 


fi  ! 


CHAPTER   LV. 

HILE  difficulties  a\\d  disasters  had  been 
gathering  about  the  infant  settlement  of 
Astoria,  the  mind  of  its  projector  at 
New  York  was  a  prey  to  great  anxiety.  The 
ship  Lark,  dispatched  by  him  with  supplies  for 
the  establishment,  sailed  on  the  6th  of  March, 
1813.  .Within  ft  fortnight  afterwards,  he  re- 
ceived intelligence  which  Justified  all  his  appre- 
hensions of  hostility  on  the  part  of  the  British. 
The  Northwest  Company  bad  made  a  second 
memorial  to  that  government,  representing  As- 
toria as  an  American  establishment,  stating  the 
vast  scope  of  its  contemplated  operations,  magni- 
fying the  strength  of  its  fortifications,  and  ex- 
pressing ijieir  fears  that,  unless  crushed  in  the 
bud,  it  would  effect  the  downfall  of  their  trade. 

Influenced  by  these  representations,  the  British 
government  ordered  the  frigate  Phoebe  to  be 
detached  as  a  convoy  for  the  armed  ship,  Isaac 
Todd,  wiiich  was  ready  to  sail  with  men  and  mu- 
nitions for  forming  a  new  establishment.  They 
were  to  proceed  together  to  the  mouth  of  the 
Columbia,  capture  or  destroy  whatever  American 
fortress  they  should  find  there,  and  plant  the 
British  ila^:  on  its  ruins. 


FITTING   OUT  OF  THE  ADAMS, 


«67 


had  been 
lement  of 
ojector   at 
ety.     The 
applies  for 
of  March, 
is,   he   re- 
his  appre- 
|he  British, 
a   second 
enting  As- 
toting  the 
,ns,  magni- 
),  and  ex- 
iled in  the 
■ir  trade, 
[the  British 
(be   to    be 
(hip,  Isaac 
in  and  mu- 
iit.     They 
ith  of  the 
American 
plant   the 


Informed  of  these  movements,  Mr.  Astor  lost 
no  time  in  addressing  a  second  letter  to  the  secre- 
tary of  state,  communicating  this  intelligence,  and 
requesting  it  might  be  laid  before  the  President; 
as  no  notice,  however,  had  been  taken  of  his 
previous  letter,  he  contented  himself  with  this 
•imple  communication,  and  made  no  further  ap- 
plication for  aid. 

Awakened  now  to  the  danger  that  menaced  the 
establishment  at  Astoria,  and  aware  of  the  im- 
portance of  protecting  this  foothold  of  American 
commerce  and  empire  on  the  shores  of  the  Paci^, 
the  government  determined  to  send  the  frigate 
Adams,  Captain  Crane,  upon  this  service.  On 
hearing  of  this  determination,  Mr.  Astor  imme<^ 
diately  proceeded  to  fit  out  a  ship  called  the 
Enterprise,  to  sail  in  company  with  the  Adams, 
freighted  with  additional  supplies  and  reinforce- 
ments for  Astoria. 

About  the  middle  of  June,  while  in  the  fnidst 
of  these  preparations,  Mr.  Astor  received  a  letter 
from  Mr.  B.  Stuart,  dated  St.  Louis,  May  Ist, 
confirming  the  intelligence  idready  received 
through  the  public  newspapers,  of  his  saf«3  return, 
and  of  the  arrival  of  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  party  at 
Astoria,  and  giving  the  most  flattering  accounts 
of  the  prosperity  of  the  enterprise. 

So  deep  had  been  the  anxiety  of  Mr.  Astor, 
for  the  success  of  this  great  object  of  his  ambition, 
that  this  gleam  of  good  news  was  almost  over- 
powering. ^*  I  felt  ready,"  said  he,  "  to  fall  upon 
my  knees  in  a  transport  of  gratitude." 

At  the  same  time  he  heard  that  the  Beaver 


568 


ASTORIA, 


had  made  good  her  voyage  from  New  York  t< 
the  Columbia.  This  was  additional  ground  of 
hope  for  the  welfare  of  the  little  colony.  The 
post  being  thus  relieved  and  strengthened,  with 
an  American  at  its  head,  and  a  ship  of  war  about 
to  sail  for  its  protection,  the  prospect  for  the 
future  seemed  full  of  encouragement,  and  Mr. 
Astor  proceeded  with  fresh  vigor  to  fit  out  his 
merchant  ship. 

Unfortunately  for  Astoria,  this  bright  gleam 
of  sunshine  was  soon  overclouded.  Just  as  the 
Adams  had  received  her  complement  of  men,  and 
the  two  vessels  were  ready  for  sea,  news  came 
from  Commodore  Chauncey,  commanding  on  Lake 
Ontario,  that  a  reinforcement  of  seamen  was 
wanted  in  that  quarter.  The  demand  was 
urgent,  the  crew  of  the  Adams  was  immediately 
transferred  to  that  service,  and  the  ship  was  laid 
up. 

This  was  a  most  ill-timed  and  discouraging 
blow,  but  Mr.  Astor  would  not  yet  allow  himself 
to  pause  in  his  undertaking.  He  determined  to 
send  the  Enterprise  to  sea  alone,  and  let  her 
take  the  chance  of  making  her  unprotected  way 
across  the  ocean.  Just  at  this  time,  however,  a 
British  force  made  its  appearance  off  the  Hook ; 
aiid  the  port  of  New  York  was  effectually  block- 
aded. To  send  a  ship  to  sea  under  these  cir- 
cumstances, would  be  to  expose  her  to  almost 
certain  capture.  The  Enterprise  was,  therefore, 
unloaded  and  dismantled,  and  Mr.  Astor  was 
obliged  to  comfort  himself  with  the  hope  that  the 


II 


FRUSTRATED  PLANS, 


569 


York  ti 
round  of 
ly.  The 
ned,  with 
lear  about 
t  for  the 

and  Mr. 
i  out  his 

rht  gleam 
ist  as  the 
'  men,  and 
lews  came 
ig  on  Lake 
imen  was 
nand  was 
amediately 
p  was  laid 

scouraging 
)W  himself 
ermined  to 
td  let  her 
tected  way 
lowever,  a 
the  Hook ; 
ally  block- 
these  cir- 
to  almost 
therefore, 
Astor  was 
pe  that  the 


Lark  might  reach  Astoria  in  safety  and,  that, 
aided  by  her  supplies,  and  by  the  good  manage- 
ment of  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  associates,  the  little 
colony  might  be  able  to  maintain  itself  until  the 
return  of  peace. 


ri 


CHAPTER  LVI. 


E  have  hitherto  had  so  much  to  relate  of 
a  gloomy  and  disastrous  nature,  that  it 
is  with  a  feeling  of  momentary  relief  we 
turn  to  something  of  a  more  pleasing  complexion, 
and  record  the  first,  and  indeed  only  nuptials  in 
high  life  that  took  place  in  the  infant  settlement 
of  Astoria. 

M'Dougal,  who  Spears  to  have  been  a  man  of 
a  thousand  projects,  and  of  great,  though  some- 
what irregular  ambition,  suddenly  conceived  the 
idea  of  seeking  the  hand  of  one  of  the  native 
princesses,  a  daughter  of  the  one-eyed  potentate 
Comcomly,  who  held  sway  over  the  fishing  tribe 
of  the  Chinooks,  and  had  long  supplied  the  Victory 
with  smelts  and  sturgeons. 

Some  accounts  give  rather  a  romantic  origin  to 
this  affair,  tracing  it  to  the  stormy  night  when 
M'Dougal,  in  the  course  of  an  exploring  expedi- 
tion, was  driven  by  stress  of  weather  to  seek 
shelter  in  the  royal  abode  of  Comcomly.  Then 
and  there  he  was  first  struck  with  the  charms  of 
this  piscatory  princess,  as  she  exerted  herself  to 
entertain  her  father's  guest. 

The  "journal  of  Astoria,"  however,  which  was 
kept  under  his  own  eye,  records  tliis  union  as  a 
high  state   alliance,    and  gre;it  stroke  of  policy. 


MA'TRlMONUiL  ALLIANCE. 


571 


The  factory  had  to  depend,  in  a  great  measure,  on 
the  Chinooks  for  provisions.  They  were  at  pres- 
ent friendly,  but  it  was  to  be  feared  they  would 
prove  otherwise,  should  they  discover  the  weak- 
ness and  the  exigencies  of  the  post,  and  the  in- 
tention to  leave  the  country.  This  alliance,  there- 
fore, would  infallibly  rivet  Oomcomly  to  the  in- 
terests of  the  Astorians,  and  with  him  the  power- 
ful tribe  of  the  Chinooks.  Be  this  as  it  may,  and 
it  is  hard  to  fatliom  the  real  policy  of  governors 
and  princes,  M'Dougal  dispatched  two  of  the 
clerks  as  ambassadors  extraordinary,  to  wait  upon 
the  one-eyed  chieftain,  and  make  overtures  for  tho 
hand  of  his  daughter. 

The  Chinooks,  though  not  a  very  refined  nation, 
have  notions  of  matrimonial  arrangements  that 
would  not  disgrace  the  most  refined  sticklers  for 
settlements  and  pin  money.  The  suitor  repairs 
not  to  the  bower  of  his  mistress,  but  to  her 
lather's  lodge,  and  throws  down  a  present  at  his 
feet.  His  wishes  are  then  disclosed  by  some 
discreet  friend  employed  by  him  for  the  purpose. 
If  the  suitor  and  his  present  find  favor  in  the  eyes 
of  the  father,  he  breaks  the  matter  to  his  daughter, 
and  inquires  into  the  state  of  her  inclinations. 
Should  her  answer  be  favorable,  the  suit  is  accepted 
and  the  lover  has  to  make  further  presents  to  the 
father,  of  horses,  canoes,  and  other  valuables,  ac- 
cording to  the  beauty  and  merits  of  the  bride ; 
.ooking  forward  to  a  return  in  kind  whenever  they 
shall  go  to  housekeeping. 

We  have  more  than  once  had  occasion  to  speak 
of  the  shrewdness  of  Comoomly ;  but  never  was 


i: 


672 


AS  7  OBI A» 


it  exerted  more  adroitly  than  on  this  occasioj. 
He  was  a  great  friend  of  M'Dougal,  and  pleased 
with  the  idea  of  having  so  distinguished  a  son-in- 
law  ;  but  so  favorable  an  opportunity  of  benefiting 
his  own  fortune  was  not  likely  to  occur  a  second 
time,  and  he  determined  to  make  the  most  of  it 
Accordingly,  the  negotiation  was  protracted  with 
true  diplomatic  skill.  Conference  after  conference 
was  held  with  the  two  ambassadors.  Gomcomly 
was  extravagant  in  his  terms ;  rating  the  charms 
of  his  daughter  at  the  highest  price,  and  indeed 
she  is  represented  as  having  one  of  the  flattest 
and  most  aristocratical  heads  in  the  tribe.  At 
length  the  preliminaries  were  all  happily  adjusted. 
On  the  20th  of  July,  early  in  the  afternoon,  a 
squadron  of  canoes  crossed  over  from  the  village 
of  the  Chinooks,  bearing  the  royal  family  of  Gom- 
comly, and  all  his  court. 

That  worthy  sachem  landed  in  princely  state; 
arrayed  in  a  bright  blue  blanket  and  red  breech 
dout,  with  an  extra  quantity  of  paint  and  feathers, 
attended  by  a  train  of  half-naked  warriors  and 
nobles.  A  horse  was  in  waiting  to  receive  the 
princess,  who  was  mounted  behind  one  of  the 
clerks,  and  thus  conveyed,  coy  but  compliant,  to 
the  fortress.  Here  she  was  received  with  devout, 
though  decent  joy,  by  her  expecting  bridegroom. 

Her  bridal  adornments,  it  is  true,  at  first  caused 
some  little  dismay,  having  painted  and  anointed 
herself  for  the  occasion  according  to  the  Chinook 
toilet ;  by  dint,  however,  of  copious  ablutions,  she 
was  freed  from  all  adventitious  tint  and  fragrance, 
and  entered  into  the  nuptial  statf,  the  cleanest 


ARRIVAL   OF  A   SHIP. 


678 


is  occasion. 
,nd  pleased 
}d  a  son-in- 
f  benefiting 
ar  a  second 
most  of  it. 
racted  with 
r  conference 
Comcomly 
the  charms 
and  indeed 
the  flattest 
I  tribe.     At 
ily  adjusted, 
afternoon,  a 
i  the  village 
oily  of  Com- 

incely  states 

red  breech 

md  feathers, 

warriors  and 

receive  the 

one  of  the 

ompliant,  to 

B^ith  devout, 

bridegroom. 

first  caused 
nd  anointed 
he  Chinook 
)lution8,  she 
md  fragrance, 

he  cleanest 


princess  that  had  ever  been  known,  of  the  some* 
what  unctdous  tribe  of  the  Chinooks. 

From  that  time  forward,  Comcomly  w»-s  a  daily 
visitor  at  the  fort,  and  was  admitted  into  the  most 
intimate  councils  of  his  son-in-law.  He  took  an 
interest  in  everything  that  was  going  forward,  but 
was  particularly  frequent  in  his  visits  to  the  black- 
smith's shop  ;  tasking  the  labors  of  the  artificer  in 
iron  for  every  kind  of  weapon  and  implement 
suited  to  the  savage  state,  insomuch  that  the  nec- 
essary business  of  the  factory  was  oflen  postponed 
to  attend  to  his  requisitions. 

The  honey-moon  had  scarce  passed  away,  and 
M'Dougal  was  seated  with  his  bride  in  the  fortress 
of  Astoria,  when,  about  noon  of  the  20th  of 
August,  GassaCop,  the  son  of  Comcomly,  hurried 
into  his  presence  with  great  agitation,  and  an- 
nounced a  ship  at  the  mouth  of  the  river.  The 
news  produced  a  vast  sensation.  Was  it  a  ship 
of  peace  or  war  ?  Was  it  American  or  British  ? 
Was  it  the  Beaver  or  the  Isaac  Todd  ?  M'Dou- 
gal  hurried  to  the  water  side,  threw  himself  into 
a  boat,  and  ordered  the  hands  to  pull  with  all 
speed  for  the  mouth  of  the  harbor.  Those  in  the 
fort  remained  watching  the  entrance  of  the  river, 
anxious  to  know  whether  they  were  to  prepare 
for  greeting  a  friend  or  fighting  an  enemy.  At 
length  the  ship  was  descried  crossing  the  bar,  and 
banding  her  course  towards  Astoria.  Every  gaze 
was  fixed  upon  her  in  silent  scrutiny,  until  the 
A.merican  flag  was  recognized.  A  general  shout 
was  the  first  expression  of  joy,  and  next  a  salu- 
tation was  thundered  &om  the  cannon  of  the  fort 


in 


['-«■ 


574 


ASTORIA. 


The  vessel  came  to  auchor  on  the  opposite  8ule 
of  the  river,  and  returned  the  salute.  The  boat 
of  Mr.  M'Dougal  went  on  board,  and  was  seen 
returning  late  in  the  afternoon.  The  Astorians 
watched  her  with  straining  eyes,  to  discover  who 
were  on  board,  but  the  sun  went  down,  and  the 
evening  dosed  in,  before  she  was  sufficiently  near. 
At  length  she  reached  the  land,  and  Mr.  Hunt 
stepped  on  shore.  He  was  hailed  as  one  risen 
from  the  dead,  and  his  return  was  a  signal  for 
merriment  almost  equal  to  that  which  prevailed 
at  ^he  nuptials  of  M'Dougal. 

We  must  now  explain  the  cause  of  this  gentle- 
man's long  absence,  which  had  given,  rise  to  such 
gloomy  and  dispiriting  surmises. 


>pposite  sKle 
.     The  boat 
id  was  seen 
le  Astoriana 
liscover  who 
wn,  and  the 
iciently  near, 
d  Mr.  Hunt 
as  one  risen 
a  signal  for 
Lch  prevailed 

»f  this  gentle- 
f  rise  to  such 


CHAPTER  LVIT. 

|T  will  be  recollected,  that  the  destination 
of  the  Beaver,  when  she  sailed  from 
Astoria  on  the  4th  of  August  in  1812, 
was  to  proceed  northwardly  along  the  coast  to 
Sheetka,  or  New  Archangel,  there  to  dispose  of 
that  part  of  her  cargo  intended  for  the  supply  of 
the  Russian  establishment  at  that  place,  and  then 
to  return  to  Astoria,  where  it  was  expected  she 
would  arrive  in  October. 

New  Archangel  is  situated  in  Norfolk  Sound, 
lat.  57**  2'  N.,  long.  135<»  60'  W.  4t  was  the 
head-quarters  of  the  different  colonies  of  the 
Rui^iau  Fur  Company,  and  the  common  ren- 
dezvous of  the  American  vessels  trading  along  the 
coasi^. 

Ti^e  Beaver  met  with  nothing  worthy  of  par- 
ticuleT  mention  in  her  voyage,  and  arrived  at  New 
Archangel  on  the  19  th  of  August.  The  place  at 
that  time  was  the  residence  of  Count  BaranhoiF, 
the  governor  of  the  differcLt  colonies ;  a  rough, 
rugged,  hospitable,  hard-drinking  old  Russian ; 
somewhat  of  a  soldier,  somewhat  of  a  trader ; 
above  all,  a  boon  companion  of  the  old  roystering 
school,  with  a  strong  cross  of  the  bear. 

Mr.  Hunt  found  this  hyperborean  veteran  en- 
lOQnced  in  a  fort  which  crested  the  whole  of  « 


676 


ASTORIA, 


high  rocky  promontory.  It  mounted  one  hun- 
di'ed  guns,  large  and  small,  and  was  impregnable 
to  Indian  attack,  unaided  by  artillery.  Here  the 
old  governor  lorded  it  over  sixty  Russians,  who 
formed  the  corps  of  the  trading  establishment, 
besides  an  indefinite  number  of  Indian  hunters  of 
the  Kodiak  tribe,  who  were  continually  coming 
and  going,  or  lounging  and  loitering  about  the 
fort  like  so  many  hounds  round  a  sportsman's 
hunting  quarters.  Though  a  loose  liver  among 
his  guests,  the  governor  was  a  strict  disciplinarian 
among  his  men ;  keeping  them  in  perfect  subjec- 
tion, and  having  seven  on  guard  night  and  day. 

Beside  those  immediate  serfs  and  dependents 
just  mentioned,  the  old  Russian  potentate  exerted 
a  considerable  sway  over  a  numerous  and  irreg- 
ular class  of  maritime  traders,  who  looked  to 
him  for  aid  and  munitions,  and  through  whom  he 
may  be  said  to  have,  in  some  degree,  extended 
his  power  along  the  whole  northwest  coast 
These  were  American  captains  of  vessels  engaged 
in  a  particular  department  of  the  trade.  One  of 
these  captains  would  come,  in  a  manner,  empty- 
handed  to  New  Archangel.  Here  his  ship  would 
be  furnished  with  about  fifty  canoes  and  a  hun- 
dred Kodiak  hunters,  and  fitted  out  with  provi< 
sions,  and  everything  necessary  for  hunting  the 
sea- otter  on  the  coast  of  California,  where  the 
Russians  have  another  establishment.  The  ship 
would  ply  along  the  Californian  coast  from  place 
to  place,  dropping  parties  of  otter  hunters  in  their 
canoes,  furnishing  them  only  with  water,  and 
leaving  them  to  depend  upon  their  own  dexterity 


TYRANNY   OF   THE   TABLE. 


677 


one  hiin<* 
apregnable 
Here  the 
Bsians,  who 
ablishment, 
hunters  of 
My  coming 
;  about  the 
sportsman's 
iver  among 
isciplinarian 
feet  subjec- 
and  day. 
dependents 
tate  exerted 
I  and   irreg- 
^o  looked  to 
;h  whom  he 
le,  extended 
west    coast 
lels  engaged 
e.     One  of 
ner,  empty- 
ship  would 
and  a  hun- 
with  provi- 
{hunting  the 
where  the 
The  ship 
from  place 
Iters  in  their 
water,  and 
n  dexterity 


for  a  maintenance.  When  a  sufficient  cargo  was 
collected,  she  would  gather  up  her  canoes  and 
hunters,  and  return  with  them  to  Archangel ; 
where  the  captain  would  render  in  the  returns 
of  his  voyage,  and  receive  one  half  of  the  skins 
for  his  share. 

Over  these  coasting  captains^  as  we  have  hinted, 
the  veteran  governor  exerted  some  sort  of  sway, 
but  it  was  of  a  peculiar  and  characteristic  kind  ;  it 
was  the  tyranny  of  the  table.  They  were  obliged 
to  join  him  in  his  "  prosnics  "  or  carousals,  and 
to  drink  "  potations  pottle  deep."  His  carousals, 
too,  were  not  of  the  most  quiet  kind,  nor  were 
his  potations  as  mild  as  nectar.  "  He  is  con- 
tinually," said  Mr.  Hunt,  "  giving  entertainments 
by  way  of  parade,  and  if  you  do  not  drink  raw 
rum,  and  boiling  punch  as  strong  as  sulphur,  he 
will  insult  you  as  soon  as  he  gets  drunk,  which  is 
very  shortly  after  sitting  down  to  table." 

As  to  any  **  temperance  captain  "  who  stood 
fast  to  his  faith,  and  refused  to  give  up  his  so- 
briety, he  might  go  elsewhere  fur  a  market,  for 
he  stood  no  chance  with  the  governor.  Rarely, 
however,  did  any  cold-water  caitiff  of  the  kind 
darken  the  door  of  old  Baranhoff;  the  coasting 
captains  knew  too  well  his  humor  and  their  own 
interests  ;  they  joined  in  his  revels,  they  drank, 
and  sang,  and  whooped,  and  hiccuped,  until  they 
all  got  '^  half  seas  over,"  and  then  affairs  went  on 


swimmingly. 


An  awful  warning  to  all  "  flinchers"  occurred 
shortly  before  Mr.  Hunt's  arrival.  A  young 
Daval  officer  had  recently  been  sent  out  by  the 


ar 


m 


579 


ASTORIA. 


111  \ 


^inpe^or  to  take  command  of  one  of  the  company's 
vessels.  The  governor,  as  usual,  had  him  at  hia 
"  prosnics,"  and  plied  him  with  fiery  potations. 
The  young  man  stood  on  the  defensive  until  the 
pld  count's  ire  was  completely  kindled ;  he  car- 
ried his  point,  and  made  the  greenhorn  tipsy, 
willy  nilly.  Jn  proportion  as  they  grew  fuddled 
they  grew  noisy,  they  quarrelled  in  their  cups ; 
the  youngster  paid  old  Baranhoff  in  his  own  coin 
by  ratjng  \^\vfi  Roundly;  in  reward  for  which, 
when  sober,  he  was  taken  the  rounds  of  four 
pickets,  and  received  seventy-nine  lashes,  taled 
out  with  Russian  punctuality  of  punishment. 

$uc1y  w}^  the  old  grizzled  bear  with  whom  Mr. 
^^pt  bad  tQ  dp  his  business.  How  he  managed 
tp  cope  witb  his  humor  ;  whether  he  pledged 
himself  ip  ri^w  ri)iii  and  blazing  punch,  and 
*^  clinked  the  can  "  with  him  as  they  made  their 
bargains,  does  i|ot  appear  upon  record ;  we  must 
infpr,  l^Qwever,  from  his  general  observations  on 
the  absolute  syvay  of  this  harq- drinking  potentate, 
tliat  he  had  to  cpnform  to  the  customs  of  his 
CQurt,  and  that  their  business  transactions  pre- 
sented a  maudlin  mixture  of  punch  and  peltry. 

Tbp  greatest  annoyance  to  Mr.  Hunt,  however, 
was  the  ()elay  to  which  he  was  subjected,  in  dis- 
posing of  the  cargo  of  the  ship,  and  getting  the 
rt^qiiisite  I'etqrns.  With  all  the  governor's  de- 
votions to  the  bottle,  he  never  obfuscated  his 
faculties  sufficiently  to  lose  si^'^ht  of  his  interest, 
and  is  represented  by  Mr.  Hunt  as  keen,  not  to 
say  crafty,  at  ft  bargain,  as  the  most  arrant  water 
drinker.     A  Ipng  \vaiQ  was  expended  negotiating 


FISHY  FOOD  AND  FUEL. 


679 


mpany  8 
n  at  his 
»otatioiis. 
intil  the 
;  he  car- 
rn  tipsy, 

fuddled 
lir  cups ; 
[)wn  coin 
r  which, 

of  four 
les,  taled 
lent, 
vhom  Mr. 

managed 
5  pledged 
^nch)  and 
ade  their 

we  must 
ations  on 
potentate, 
IS  of  his 
ions   pre- 

peltry. 

however. 

d,  in  dis- 

itting  the 

•nor's  de- 

cated    his 

interest, 

,  not  to 

,nt  water 

igotiating 


n. 


with  him,  and  by  the  time  the  bargain  was  oon- 
chided,  the  month  of  October  had  arrived.  To 
odd  to  the  delay  he  was  to  be  paid  for  his  cargo 
in  seal  skins.  Now  it  so  happened  that  thei'C 
was  none  of  this  kind  of  peltry  at  the  fort  of  old 
BaranhofF.  It  was  necessary,  therefore,  for  Mr. 
Hunt  to  proceed  to  a  seal-catching  establishment, 
which  the  Russian  company  had  at  the  island  of 
St.  Paul  in  the  sea  of  Kamtschatka.  He  accord- 
ingly set  sail  on  the  4th  of  October,  after  having 
»pent  forty-five  days  at  New  Archangel  boosing 
and  bargaining  with  its  roystering  commander, 
and  right  glad  was  he  to  escape  from  the  clutches 
of  "  this  old  man  of  the  sea." 

The  Beaver  arrived  at  St.  Paul's  ou  the  31st 
of  October;  by  which  time,  according  to  arrange- 
ment, he  ought  to  have  been  back  at  Astoria* 
The  Lsland  of  St.  Paul's  is  in  latitude  67°  N., 
longitude  170®  or  171*^  W.  Its  shores,  in  cer- 
tain places,  and  at  certain  seasons,  are  covered 
with  seals,  while  others  are  playing  about  in  the 
water.  Of  these,  the  Russians  take  only  the 
pmall  ones,  from  seven  to  ten  months  old,  and 
carefully  select  the  males,  giving  the  females 
their  freedom,  that  the  breed  may  not  be  dimin- 
ished. The  islanders,  however,  kill  the  large 
ones  for  provisions,  and  for  skins  wherewith  to 
cover  their  canoes.  They  drive  them  from  the 
shore  over  the  rocks,  until  within  a  short  distance 
of  their  habitations,  where  they  kill  them.  By 
this  means,  they  save  themselves  the  trouble  of 
carrying  the  skins  and  have  the  flesh  at  hand. 
This  is  thrown  in  heaps,  and  when  the  season  for 


!>.iS 


Mi! 


580 


ASTORIA. 


Rkinning  is  over,  they  take  out  the  entrails  and 
make  one  heap  of  the  blubber.  This,  with  drift- 
wood, serves  fur  fuel,  for  the  island  is  entirely  des- 
titute of  trees.  Th»3y  make  another  heap  of  the 
flesh,  which,  with  the  eg|is  of  sea-fowls,  preserved 
in  oil,  an  occasional  sea-hon,  a  few  ducks  in  win- 
ter, and  some  wild  roots,  compose  their  food. 

Mr.  Hunt  found  seven  Russians  at  the  island, 
and  one  hundred  hunters,  natives  of  Oonalaska, 
with  their  families.  They  lived  in  cabins  that 
looked  like  canoes;  being,  for  the  most  part 
formed  of  the  jaw-bone  of  a  whale,  put  up  as 
rafters,  across  which  were  laid  pieces  of  drift- 
wood covered  over  with  long  grass,  the  skins  of 
large  sea  animals,  and  earth  ;  so  as  to  be  quite 
comfortable,  in  despite  of  the  rigors  of  the  cli- 
mate ;  though  we  are  told  they  had  as  ancient  and 
fish-like  an  odor,  *'  as  had  the  quarters  of  Jonah, 
when  he  lodged  within  the  whale." 

In  one  of  these  odoriferous  mansions,  Mr.  Hunt 
occasionally  took  up  his  abode,  that  he  might  be 
at  hand  to  hasten  the  loading  of  the  ship.  The 
operation,  however,  was  somewhat  slow,  for  it 
was  necessary  to  overhaul  and  inspect  every  pack 
to  prevent  imposition,  and  the  peltries  had  then 
to  be  conveyed  in  large  boats,  made  of  skins,  to 
the  ship,  which  was  some  little  distance  from  the 
shore,  standing  off  and  on. 

One  night,  while  Mr.  Hunt  was  on  shore,  with 
Bome  others  of  the  crew,  there  arose  a  terrible 
gale.  Whe  ■  the  day  broke,  the  ship  was  not  to 
be  seen.  He  watched  for  her  with  anxious  eyes 
antil  night,  but  in  vain.     Day  after  day  of  hois- 


PERPLEXITY  OF  MR.   HUNT. 


581 


tc/ous  storms,  and  howling  wintry  weather,  wore 
passed  in  watchfulness  and  solicitude.  Nothing 
was  to  be  seen  but  a  dark  and  angry  sea,  and  a 
scowling  northern  sky ;  and  at  night  he  retired 
within  the  jaws  of  the  whale,  aud  nestled  die* 
consolately  among  seal  skins. 

At  length,  on  the  13th  of  November,  the  Beaver 
made  her  appearance  ;  much  the  worse  for  the 
stormy  conflicts  she  had  sustained  in  those  hyper- 
borean seas.  She  had  been  obliged  to  carry  a 
press  of  sail  in  heavy  gales  to  be  able  to  hold  her 
ground,  and  had  consequently  sustained  great 
damage  in  her  canvas  and  rigging.  Mr.  Hunt 
lost  no  time  in  hurrying  the  residue  of  the  cargo 
on  board  of  her ;  then,  bidding  adieu  to  his  seal- 
fishing  friends,  and  his  whalebone  habitation,  he 
put  forth  once  more  to  sea. 

He  was  now  for  making  the  best  of  his  way 
to  Astoria,  and  fortunate  would  it  have  been  for 
the  interests  of  that  place,  and  the  interests  of 
Mr.  Astor,  had  he  done  so ;  but,  unluckily,  a 
pei^l  3xing  question  rose  in  his  mind.  The  sails 
and  rigging  of  the  Beaver  had  been  much  rent 
and  shattered  in  the  late  storm;  would  she  be 
able  to  stand  the  hard  gales  to  be  expp'^ted  in 
making  Columbia  River  at  this  season  ?  Was  it 
prudent,  also,  at  this  boisterous  time  of  the  year 
to  risk  the  valuable  cargo  which  she  now  had  on 
board,  by  crossing  and  recrossing  the  dangerous 
bar  of  that  river  ?  These  doubts  were  probably 
luggested  or  enforced  by  Captain  Sowle,  who,  it 
has  already  been  seen,  was  an  over-cautious,  or 
>«ther,  a  timid  seaman,  aud  they  may  have  had 


:!■■:: 


i 


I 


LI 

lif 


582 


ASTORIA, 


some  weight  with  Mr.  Hunt;  but  tliere  m're' 
other  considerations,  which  more  strongly  swayefJ 
hiR  mind.  The  lateness  of  the  season,  and  the 
unforeseen  delays  the  ship  had  encountered  at 
New  Archangel,  and  by  being  obliged  to  proceed 
to  St.  Paul's,  had  put  her  so  much  back  in  her 
calculated  time,  that  there  was  a  risk  of  her  ar- 
riving 80  late  at  Canton,  as  to  come  to  a  bad 
market,  both  for  the  sale  of  her  peltries,  and  the 
purchase  of  a  return  cargo.  He  considered  it  to 
the  interest  of  the  company,  therefore,  that  he 
should  proceed  at  once  to  the  Sandwich  Islands ; 
there  wait  the  arrival  of  the  annual  vessel  from 
New  York,  take  passage  in  her  to  Astoria,  and 
suffer  the  Beaver  to  continue  on  to  Canton. 

On  the  other  hand,  he  was  urged  to  the  other 
course  by  his  engagements  ;  by  the  plan  of  the 
voyage  marked  out  for  the  Beaver,  by  Mr.  Astor ; 
by  his  inclination,  and  the  possibility  that  the 
establishment  might  need  his  presence,  and  by  the 
recollection  that  there  must  already  be  a  large 
amount  of  peltries  collected  at  Astoria,  and  wait- 
ing for  the  return  of  the  Beaver,  to  convey  them 
to  market. 

These  conflicting  questions)  perplexed  and  agi- 
tated his  mind  and  gave  rise  to  much  anxious 
reflection,  for  he  was  a  conscientious  man  that 
seems  ever  to  have  aimed  at  a  faithful  discharge 
of  his  duties,  and  to  have  had  the  interests  of  his 
employers  earnestly  at  heart.  His  decision  in  the 
present  instance  was  injudicious,  and  proved  un- 
fortunate. It  was,  to  bear  away  for  the  Sandwich 
Islands.    He  persuaded  himself  that  it  wais  a  matter 


INJUDICIOVS  DECISION. 


583 


swayed 
and  the 
ered  at 
proceed 

in  her 
her  ar- 
)  a  bad 
and  the 
red  it  to 
that  he 
Islands ; 
sel  from 
oria,  and 
^n. 

he  other 
m  of  tho 
r.  Astor ; 
that  the 
d  by  the 

a  large 
tnd  wait^- 

ey  them; 

and  agi- 

anxious 

m  that 

lischarge 

Its  of  his 

)n  in  the 

)ved  un- 

Jandwich 

a  matter 


of  necessity,  and  tiiat  the  distressed  condition  of 
the  ship  left  him  no  other  alternative ;  but  we 
rather  suspect  he  was  so  persuaded  by  the  repre- 
sentations of  the  timid  captain.  They  accoi'dmgly 
stood  for  the  Sandwich  Islands,  arrived  at  Woahoo, 
where  the  ship  underwent  the  necessary  repairs, 
and  again  put  to  sf^a  on  the  Isfc  of  January,'  1818 ; 
leaving  Mr.  Hu^  .  oil  the  island. 

We  will  follow  the  Beaver  to  Cant(m,  as  lier 
fortunes,  in  some  measure,  exemplify  the  evil  of 
commanders  of  ships  alcting  contrary  to  orders ; 
and  as  they  form  a  part  of  the  tissue  of  cross 
purposes  that  marred  the  great  commercial  enter- 
prise we  have  undertake^  to  record. 

The  Beaver  arrived  safe  at  Canton,  where 
Captain  Sowle  found  the  letter  of  Mr.  Astor, 
giving  him  information  of  the  war  and  directing 
him  to  convey  the  intelligence  to  Astoria.  He 
wrote  ft  reply,  dictated  either  by  timidity  or  obsti-^ 
nacy,  in  which  he  declined  complying  with  the 
orders  of  Mr.  Astor,  but  said  he  would  wait  for 
the  return  of  peace,  and  then  cotae  home.  The 
other  proceedings  of  Captain  Sowle  were  equally 
wrongheaded  and  unlucky.  He  was  offered  onef 
hundred  and  fifty  thousand  dollars  for  the  fur 
he  had  taken  on  board  at  St  Paul's.  The  goods 
for  which  it  had  been  procured,  cost  but  twenty* 
Ijve  thousand  dollars  in  New  York.  Had  he 
accepted  this  offer,  and  re-inVested  the  amount  in 
nankeens,  which  at  that  time,  in  consequence  of 
the  interruption  to  commerce  by  the  war,  were 
•it  two  thirds  of  their  usual  price,  the  whole  would 
i^ave  brought  three  hundred  thotisand  dollars  hi 


ill 

Pi 
m 


584 


ASTORIA. 


New  York.  It  is  true,  the  war  would  havo  ren- 
dered it  unsafe  to  attempt  the  homeward  voyage, 
but  he  might  have  put  the  goods  iu  store  at  Can- 
ton, until  after  the  peace,  and  have  sailed  without 
risk  of  capture  to  Astoria ;  bringing  to  the  part- 
ners at  that  place  tidings  of  the  great  profits 
realized  on  the  outward  cargo,  and  the  still  greater 
to  be  expected  from  the  returns.  The  news  of 
such  a  brilliant  commencement  to  their  undertak- 
ing would  have  counterbalanced  the  gloomy 
tidings  of  the  war ;  it  would  have  infused  new 
spirit  into  them  all,  and  given  them  courage  and 
constancy  to  persevere  in  the  enterprise.  Captain 
Sowle,  however,  refused  the  offer  of  one  hundred 
and  fifty  thousand  dollars,  and  stood  wavering  and 
chaffering  for  higher  terms.  The  furs  began  to 
fall  in  value ;  this  only  increased  his  irresolution  ; 
they  sunk  so  much  t^^t  he  feared  to  sell  at  all ; 
he  borrowed  money  on  Mr.  Astor's  account  at  an 
interest  of  eighteen  per  cent.,  and  laid  up  his 
ship  to  await  the  return  of  peace. 

In  the  meanwhile,  Mr.  Hunt  soon  saw  reason 
to  repent  the  resolution  he  had  adopted  in  alter- 
ing the  destination  of  the  ship.  His  stay  at  the 
Sandwich  Islands  was  prolonged  far  beyond  all 
expectation.  He  looked  in  vain  for  the  annua) 
ship  in  the  spring.  Month  after  month  passed 
by,  and  still  she  did  not  make  her  appearance 
•He,  too,  proved  the  danger  of  departing  from 
orders.  Had  he  returned  from  St.  Paul*s  to 
Astoria,  all  the  anxiety  and  despondency  about 
his  fate,  and  about  the  whole  course  of  the  under- 
taking, would  have  been  obviated.     The  Beaver 


u'll 


WANDE^NGa   OF  MR.  HUNT. 


585 


havo  ren- 
rd  voyage, 
)re  at  Can- 
led  without 
0  the  part- 
•eat  profits 
Btiil  greater 
le  news  of 
•  undertals- 
le    gloomy 
ifused  new 
ourage  and 
3.     Captain 
me  hundred 
avering  and 
rs   began  to 
rresolution ; 

sell  at  all ; 
<;ount  at  an 

aid  up  his 


*•- 


would  have  received  the  furs  collectefl  at  the  factory 
and  taken  them^-  to  Canton,  and  great  gains, 
instead  of  groat  losses,  would  have  been  the  result 
The  greatest  blunder,  however,  was  that  commit- 
ted by  Captain  Sowle. 

At  length,  about  the  20th  of  June,  the  ship 
Albatross,  Captain  Smith,  arrived  from  China, 
tind  brought  the  first  tidings  of  the  war  to  the 
Sandwich  Islands.  Mr.  Hunt  was  no  longer  in 
doubt  and  perplexity  as  to  the  reason  of  the  non- 
appearance of  the  annual  ship.  His  first  thoughts 
were  for  the  welfare  of  Astoria,  and,  concluding 
that  the  inhabitants  would  probably  be  in  want 
of  provisions,  he  chartered  the  Albatross  for  two 
thousand  dollars,  to  land  him,  with  some  supplies, 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia,  where  he  arrived, 
as  we  have  seen,  on  the  20th  of  August,  after  a 
year's  seafaring  that  might  have  furnished  a  chap- 
ter in  the  wanderings  of  »^ndbad. 


saw  reason 

3d  in  alter* 

stay  at  the 

beyond  all 

the  annual 
>nth  passed 
appearance 
urting  irom 

Paul's    to 
ency  about 

the  under- 
?he  Beaver 


CHAPTER  LVIII. 

« 

R.  Hunt  was  overwhelmed  with  tfuf- 
prise  when  he  learnt  the  resolntiori 
taken  by  the  partners  to  abandon  Aftto^ 
ria.  He  soon  found,  however,  that  matters  had 
gone  too  far,  and  the  minds  of  his  colleagnes  had 
become  too  firmly  bent  upon  the  measure,  to  ren- 
der any  opposition  of  avail.  He  was  besety  too, 
with  the  same  disparaging  accounts  of  the  iwte- 
rior  trade,  and  of  the  whole  concerns  and  pros- 
pects of  the  Company  that  had  been  rendered  to 
Mr.  Astor.  His  or;n  experience  had  bten  full 
of  perplexities  and  discouragements.  He  bad  a 
conscientious  anxiety  for  the  interests  of  Mr. 
Astor,  and,  not  comprehending  the  extended 
views  of  that  gentleman,  and  his  habit  of  operat- 
ing with  great  amounts,  he  had  from  the  first 
been  daunted  by  the  enormous  expenses  required, 
and  had  become  disheartened  by  the  subsequent 
losses  sustained,  which  appeared  to  him  to  be 
ruinous  in  their  magnitude.  By  degrees,  there- 
fore, he  was  brought  to  ftequiesce  in  the  step 
taken  by  his  colleagues,  as  perhaps  advisable  in 
the  exigencies  of  the  case  ;  his  only  care  was  to 
wind  up  the  business  with  as  little  further  loss 
as  possible  to  Mr.  Astor. 

A  large  stock  of  valuable  furs  was  collected 


with    BittN 

resolotioii 

don  Aftto- 

Htters  had 

Fignes  hftd 

re,  to  pen- 

besaii  too, 

the  int«H 

and  pro8- 

ndered  to 

b*en  full 

Ele  bad  a 

of  Mr. 

extended 

)f  operat- 

the  first 

required, 

ibsequeiit 

im  to    be 

es,  tliere- 

the    stt^p 

visable  in 

•e  was  to 

ther  loss 

collected 


J 


FURTHER  ARRANGEMENTS, 


587 


At  the  factory,  which  it  was  necessary  to  get  to  a 
market.  Tiiere  were  twenty-five  Sandwich  Isl- 
anders also  in  the  employ  of  the  compaiiv,  whonn 
they  were  bound,  by  express  agreement,  to  re^ 
store  to  their  native  country.  For  these  pur- 
poses a  ship  was  necessary. 

The  Albatross  was  bound  to  the  Marquesas, 
and  thence  to  the  Sandwich  Islands.  It  was 
resolved  that  Mr.  Hunt  should  sail  in  her  in 
quest  of  a  vessel,  and  should  return,  if  possible, 
by  tlie  1st  of  January,  bringing  with  him  a  sup- 
ply of  provisions.  Should  anything  occur,  how- 
ever, to  prevent  his  return,  an  arrangement  was 
to  be  proposed  to  Mr.  M'Tavisli,  to  transfer  such 
of  the  men  as  were  so  disposed,  from  the  service 
of  the  American  Fur  Company  into  that  of  the 
Northwest,  the  latter  becoming  responsible  for 
the  wages  due  them,  on  receiving  an  equivalent 
in  goods  from  the  store-house  of  the  factory.  A» 
a  means  of  facilitating  the  dispatch  of  business,^ 
Mr.  M'Dougal  proposed,  that  in  case  Mr.  Hunt 
should  not  return,  the  whole  arrangement  with 
Mr.  MTavish  should  be  left  solely  to  him.  Thi» 
was  assented  to^  the  contingency  being  consid- 
ered possible,  bcit  not  probable. 

It  is  proper  to  note,  that,  on  the  first  announce- 
ment by  Mr.  M'Dougal  of  his  intention  to  break 
up  the  establishment,  three  of  the  clerks,  British 
subjects,  had,  with  his  consent,  passed  into  the 
serviutj  of  the  Northwest  Company,  and  departed 
with  Mr.  M'Tavish  for  his  post  in  the  interior. 

Having  arranged  all  these  matters  during  a 
sojourn  of  six  days   at  Astoria,  Mr.  Huut   sel 


! 


|i;r 


588 


AbiORIA. 


'\  Hi' 


Bail  \n  the  Albatross  on  the  26th  of  August,  and 
arrived  without  accident  at  the  Marquesas.  He 
had  not  ^een  there  long,  when  Porter  arrived  in 
the  frigate  Essex,  bringing  in  a  number  of  stout 
London  whalers  as  prizes,  having  made  a  sweep- 
ing cruise  in  the  Pacific.  From  Commodon^ 
Porter  he  received  the  alarming  intelligence  that 
the  British  frigate  Phoebe,  with  a  storeship 
mounted  with  battering  pieces,  calculated  to  at- 
tack forts,  had  arrived  at  Rio  Janeiro,  where  she 
had  been  joined  by  the  sloops  of  war  Cherub 
and  Raccoon,  and  that  they  had  all  sailed  in  com- 
pany on  the  6th  of  July  for  the  Pacific,  bound, 
as  it  was  supposed,  to  Columbia  River. 

Here,  then,  was  the  death-warrant  of  unfor- 
tunate Astoria !  The  anxious  mind  of  Mr.  Hunt 
was  in  greater  perplexity  than  ever.  He  had 
been  eager  to  extricate  the  property  of  Mr.  As- 
ter from  a  failing  concern  with  as  little  loss  as 
possible ;  there  was  now  danger  that  the  whole 
would  be  swallowed  up.  How  was  it  to  be 
snatched  from  the  gulf?  It  was  impossible  to 
charter  a  ship  for  the  purpose,  now  that  a  Brit- 
ish squadron  was  on  its  way  to  the  river.  He  ap- 
plied to  purchase  one  of  the  whale  ships  brought 
in  by  Commodore  Porter.  The  commodore  de- 
manded twenty-five  thousand  dollars  for  her. 
The  price  appeared  exorbitant,  and  no  bargain 
could  be  made.  Mr.  Hunt  then  urged  the  com- 
modore to  fit  out  one  of  his  prizes,  and  send  her 
to  Astoria,  to  bring  off  the  property  and  part  of 
the  people,  but  he  declined,  "  from  want  oi  au- 
thority."    Ho  assured  Mr.  Hunt,  howevet    that 


WRECk  OF  THE  LARK, 


589 


•he  would  endeavor  to  fall  in  with  the  enemy,  or,  v 
should  lie  hear  of  their  having  certainly  gone  to 
the  Columbia,  he  would  either  follow  or  antici- 
pate them,  should  his  circumstances  warrant  such 
a  step. 

In  this  tantalizing  state  of  suspense,  Mr.  Hunt 
was  detained  at  the  Marquesas  until  November 
23d,  when  he  proceeded  in  the  Albatross  to  the 
Sandwich  Islands.  He  still  cherished  a  faint 
hope  that,  notwithstanding  the  war,  and  all  other 
discoura^.ng  circumstances,  the  annual  ship  might 
have  been  sent  by  Mr.  Astor,  and  might  have 
touched  at  the  islands,  and  proceeded  to  the  Co- 
lumbia. He  knew  the  pride  and  interest  taken 
by  that  gentleman  in  his  great  enterprise,  and 
that  he  would  not  be  deterred  by  dangers  and 
difficulties  from  prosecuting  it ;  much  less  would 
he  leave  the  infant  establishment  without  succor 
and  support  in  the  time  of  trouble.  In  this,  we 
have  seen,  he  did  but  justice  to  Mr.  Astor ;  and 
we  must  now  turn  to  notice  the  cause  of  the 
non-arrival  of  the  vessel  which  he  had  dispatched 
with  reinforcements  and  supplies.  Her  voyage 
forms  another  chapter  of  accidents  in  this  event- 
ful story. 

The  Lark  sailed  from  New  York  on  the  Gth 
of  March,  1813,  and  proceeded  prosperously  on 
her  voyage,  until  within  a  few  degrees  of  the 
Sandwich  Islands.  Here  a  gale  sprang  up  that 
soon  blew  with  tremendous  violence.  The  Lark 
was  a  stanch  and  noble  ship,  and  for  a  time  buf- 
feted bravely  with  the  storm.  Unluckily,  how- 
ever, she  **  broached  to/'  and  was  struck  by  a 


590 


ASTORIA. 


heavy  sea,  that  hove  her  on  her  beam-ends.  The 
helm,  too,  was  knocked  to  leeward,  all  command 
of  the  vessel  was  lost,  and  another  mountain 
ivave  completely  overset  her.  Orders  were  given 
to  cut  away  the  masts.  In  the  hurry  and  con- 
fusion, the  boats  also  were  unfortunately  cut 
adrift.  The  wreck  then  righted,  but  was  a  mere 
hulk,  full  of  water,  with  a  heavy  sea  washing 
over  it,  and  all  the  hatches  off.  On  mustering 
the  crew,  one  man  was  missing,  who  was  discov- 
ered below  in  the  forecastle,  drowned. 

In  cutting  away  the  masts,  it  had  been  utterly 
impossible  to  observe  the  necessary  precaution  of 
commencing  with  the  lee  rigging,  that  being,  from 
the  position  of  the  ship,  completely  under  water. 
The  masts  and  spars,  therefore,  being  linked  to 
the  wreck  by  the  shrouds  and  the  rigging,  re- 
mained alongside  for  four  days.  During  all  this 
time  the  ship  lay  rolling  in  the  trough  of  the  sea, 
the  heavy  surges  breaking  over  her,  and  the  spar? 
heaving  and  banging  to  and  fro,  bruising  the  half- 
drowned  sailors  that  clung  to  the  bowsprit  and  the 
stumps  of  the  mast.  The  sufferings  of  these  poor 
fellows  were  intolerable.  They  stood  to  their 
wnists  in  water,  in  imminent  peril  of  being 
washed  off  by  every  surge.  In  this  position  they 
dared  not  sleep,  lest  they  should  let  go  their  hold 
and  be  swept  away.  The  only  dry  place  on  the 
wreck  was  the  bowsprit.  Here  they  took  turns 
to  be  tied  on,  for  half  an  hour  at  a  time,  and  in 
this  way  gained  short  snatches  of  sleep. 

On  the  14th,  the  first  mate  died  at  his  post, 
find  was  swept  off  by  the  surges     On  the  ITth, 


SUFFERINGS   OF   THE   CREW, 


591 


nds.     The 

command 

mountain 
were  given 
f  and  con- 
nately  cut 
was  a  mere 
3a  washing 

mustering 
lyas  discov- 

een  utterly 
•ecaution  of 
being,  from 
nder  water. 
12  linked  to 

rigging*  ^^' 
ing  all  this 
1  of  the  sea, 
nd  the  sparp 
ing  the  half- 
sprit  and  the 
f  these  poor 
3od  to  their 
of   being 
losition  they 
:o  their  hold 
lace  on  the 
took  turns 
ime,  and  in 
p. 

at  his  post, 
)ii  the  X7th, 


il 


two  seamen,  faint  and  exhausted,  were  washed 
overboard.  The  next  wave  threw  their  bodies 
back  upon  the  deck,  where  they  remained,  swash- 
ing backvvi^rd  and  forward,  ghastly  objects  to  the 
almost  perishing  survivors.  Mr.  Ogden,  the 
supercargo,  who  was  at  the  bowsprit,  called  to 
t)ie  men  nearest  to  the  bodies,  to  fasten  them  to 
the  wreck  ;  as  a  last  horrible  resource  in  case  of 
being  driven  to  extremity  by  famine  1 

On  the  J 7th  the  gale  gradually  subsided,  and 
the  sea  became  calm.     The  sailors  now  crawled 
fi'ebly  about  the  wreck,  and  began  to  relieve  it 
from    the  main  incumbrances.     The  spars  were 
cleared  away,  the  anchors  and  guns  heaved  over- 
board ;  the  spritHsail  yard  was  rigged  for  a  jury- 
mast,  and  a  mizzen  topsail  set  upon  it.     A  sort 
of  stage  was  made  of  a   few  broken    spars,    oil 
which  the  crew  were  raised  above  the  surface  of 
the    water,  so  as   to    be  enabled  to  keep  them- 
selves dry,  and  to  sleep  comfortably.     Still  their 
suflTerings  from  hunger   and    thirst    were  great ; 
but   there  was    a    Sandwich  Islander  on   board, 
an   expert    swimmer,    who  found    his    way    into 
the  cabin,  and  occasionally  brought  up  a  few  bot- 
tles of  wine  and  porter,  and  at  length  got  into  the 
run,    and    secured  a    quarter  cask  of  wine.     A 
little  raw  pork  was  likewise  procured,  and  dealt 
out  with  a  sparing  hand.     The  horrors  of  their 
situation  were  increased  by  the  sight  of  numerous 
sharks  prowling  about  the  wreck,  as  if  waiting  for 
their  prey.     On  the  24th,  the  cook,  a  black  man, 
iied,  and  was  cast  into  the  sea,  when  he  was   ia« 
Itantly  seized  on  by  these  ravenous  monsters. 


592 


ASTORIA. 


They  h^d  been  several  days  making  slow 
headway  under  their  scanty  sail,  when,  on  the 
25th,  they  came  in  sight  of  land.  It  was  about 
fifteen  leagues  distant,  and  they  remained  two  or 
three  days  drifting  along  in  sight  of  it.  On  the 
28th,  they  descried,  to  their  great  transport,  a 
canoe  appi'oaching,  managed  by  natives.  They 
carnv^  alongside,  and  brought  a  most  welcome 
supply  of  potatoes.  They  informed  them  that 
the  land  they  had  made  was  one  of  the  Sandwich 
Islands.  The  second  mate  and  one  of  the  sea- 
men went  on  shore  in  the  canoe  for  water  and 
provisions,  and  to  procure  aid  from  the  islanders, 
in  towing  the  wreck  into  a  harbor. 

Neither  of  the  men  returned,  nor  was  any 
assistance  sent  from  shore.  The  next  day,  ten 
or  twelve  canoes  came  alongside,  but  roamed 
round  the  wreck  like  so  many  sharks,  and  would 
render  no  aid  in  towing  her  to  land. 

Tiie  sea  continued  to  break  over  the  vessel 
with  such  violence,  that  it  was  impossible  to 
stand  at  the  helm  without  the  assistance  of  lash- 
ings. The  crew  were  now  so  worn  dowu  by 
famine  and  thirst,  that  the  captain  saw  it  would 
be  impossible  for  them  to  withstand  the  breaking 
of  the  sea,  when^  the  ship  should  ground ;  he 
deemed  the  only  chance  for  their  lives,  therefore, 
was  to  get  to  land  in  the  canoes,  iand  stand  ready 
to  receive  and  protect  the  wreck  when  she 
should  drift  to  shore.  Accordingly,  they  all  got 
safe  to  land,  but  had  scarcely  touched  the  beach 
when  they  were  surrounded  by  the  natives,  who 
stripped  them  almost  naked.  The  name  of  this 
inhospitable  island  was  Tuhoorowa. 


BARGAIN   WITH   TAMAABMAAH, 


593 


In  the  course  of  the  night,  the  wreck  came 
drifting  to  the  strand,  with  the  surf  thundering 
around  her,  and  shortly  afterwards  bilged.  On 
the  following  morning,  numerous  casks  of  pro- 
visions floated  on  shore.  The  natives  staved 
them  for  the  sake  of  the  iron  hoops,  but  would 
not  allow  the  crew  to  help  themselves  to  the 
contents,  or  to  go  on  board  of  the  wreck. 

As  the  crew  were  in  want  of  everything, 
and  as  it  might  be  a  long  time  before  any  oppor- 
tunity occurred  for  them  to  get  away  from  these 
islands,  Mr.  Ogden,  as  soon  as  he  could  get  a 
cliance,  made  his  way  to  the  island  of  Owyhee, 
and  endeavored  to  make  some  arrangement  with 
the  king  for  the  relief  of  his  companions  in  mis- 
fortune. 

The  illustrious  Tamaahmaah,  as  we  have  shown 
on  a  former  occasion,  was  a  shrewd  bargainer, 
and  in  the  present  instance  proved  himself  an 
experienced  wrecker.  His  negotiations  with  M*- 
Dougal,  and  the  other  "  Eris  of  the  great  Ameri- 
can Fur  Company,"  had  but  little  effect  on  pres- 
ent circumstances,  and  he  proceeded  to  avail 
himself  of  their  misfortunes.  He  agreed  to  fur- 
nish the  crew  with  provisions  during  their  stay 
in  his  territories,  and  to  return  to  them  all  their 
clothing  that  could  be  found,  but  he  stipulated 
that  the  wreck  should  be  abandoned  to  him  as  a 
waif  cast  by  fortune  on  his  shores.  With  these 
conditions  Mr.  Ogden  was  fain  to  comply.  Upon 
this  the  great  Tamaahmaah  deputed  his  favorite, 
Tohn  Young,  the  tarpaulin  governor  of  Owyhee, 

V)  proceed  with  a   number  of  the  royal  guards, 
38 


594 


ABTOR  A. 


and  take  posaession  of  the  wreck  on  behalf  of 
the  crown.  This  was  done  accordingly,  and  the 
property  and  crew  were  removed  to  Owyhee. 
Tiie  royal  bounty  appears  to  have  been  but 
scanty  in  its  dispensations.  The  crew  fared  but 
meagrely;  though,  on  reading  the  journal  of  the 
voyage,  it  is  singular  to  find  them,  after  all  the 
liardships  they  had  suffered,  so  sensitive  about 
petty  inconveniences,  as  to  exclaim  against  the 
king  as  a  "  savage  monster,"^  for  refusing  them  a 
*'  pot  to  cook  in,"  and  denying  Mr.  Ogden  the 
use  of  a  knife  and  fork  which  had  been  saved 
from  the  wreck. 

Such  was  the  unfortunate  catastrophe  of  the 
Lark  ;  had  she  reached  her  destination  in  safety, 
affairs  at  Astoria  might  have  taken  a  different 
course.  A  strange  fatality  seems  to  have  attend- 
ed all  the  expeditions  by  sea,  nor  were  those  by 
land  much  less  disastrous. 

Captain  Northrop  was  still  at  the  Sandwich 
Islands,  on  December  20th,  when  Mr.  Hunt  ar- 
rived. The  latter  immediately  purchased,  for 
ten  thousand  dollars,  a  brig  called  the  Pedler, 
and  put  Captain  Northrop  in  command  of  her. 
They  set  sail  for  Astoria  on  the  22d  January, 
intending  to  remove  the  property  from  thence  as 
speedily  as  possible  to  the  Russian  settlements 
on  the  northwest  coast,  to  prevent  it  from  falling 
into  the  hands  of  the  British.  Such  were  the 
orders  of  Mr.  Astor,  sent  out  by  the  Lark. 

We  will  now  leave  Mr.  Hunt  on  his  voyage, 
und  return  to  see  what  has  taken  place  at  Asto« 
ria  during  his  absence. 


CHAPTER  LIX. 

N  the  2d  of  October,  about  five  weeks 
after  Mr.  Hunt  had  sailed  in  the  Alba- 
tross from  Astoria,  Mr.  M'Kenzie  set 
off  with  two  canoes,  and  twelve  men,  for  the 
posts  of  Messrs.  Stuart  and  Clarke,  to  apprise 
them  of  the  new  arrangements  determined  upon 
in  the  recent  conference  of  the  partners  at  the 
factory. 

He  had  not  ascended  the  river  a  hundred  miles, 
when  he  met  a  squadron  of  ten  canoes,  sweep- 
ing merrily  down  under  British  colors,  the  Cana- 
dian oarsmen,  as  usual,  in  full  song. 

It  was  an  armament  fitted  out  by  M'Tavish. 
who  had  with  him  Mr.  J.  Stuart,  another  partner 
of  the  Northwest  Company,  together  with  some 
clerks,  and  sixty-eight  men  —  seventy-five  souls 
in  all.  They  had  heard  of  the  frigate  Phoebe 
and  the  Isaac  Todd  being  oh  the  high  seas,  and 
were  on  their  way  down  to  await  their  arrival. 
In  one  of  the  canoes  Mr.  Clarke  came  passenger, 
the  alarming  intelligence  having  brought  him  down 
(Vom  his  post  on  the  Spokan.  Mr.  M'Kenzie  im- 
mediately determined  to  return  with  him  to  As- 
toria, and,  veering  about,  the  two  parties  encamped 
together  f6r  the  night.  The  leaders,  of  course, 
observed  a  due  decorum,  but  some  of  the  subal- 


'i 


ii.' 


^* 


596 


ASTORIA. 


terns  could  not  restrain  their  chuckling  exultation, 
boasting  that  they  would  soon  plant  the  British 
standard  on  the  walls  of  Astoria,  and  drive  the 
Americans  out  of  the  country. 

In  the  course  of  the  evening,  Mr.  M*Kenzie 
had  a  secret  conference  with  Mr.  Clarke,  in  which 
they  agreed  to  set  off  privately,  before  daylight, 
and  get  down  in  time  to  apprise  M'Dougal  of  the 
approach  of  these  Northwesters.  The  latter, 
however,  were  completely  on  the  alert;  just  as 
M'Kenzie*s  canoes  were  about  to  push  off,  they 
were  joined  by  a  couple  from  the  Northwest 
squadron,  in  which  was  M'Tavish,  with  two  clerks, 
and  eleven  men.  With  these,  he  intended  to  push 
forward  and  make  arrangements,  leaving  the  rest 
of  the  convoy,  in  which  was  a  large  quantity  of 
furs,  to  await  his  orders. 

The  two  parties  arrived  at  Astoria  on  the  7th 
of  October.  The  Northwesters  encamped  under 
the  guns  of  the  fort,  and  displayed  the  British 
colors.  The  young  men  in  tho  fort,  natives  of 
the  United  States,  were  on  the  point  of  hoisting 
the  American  flag,  but  were  forbidden  by  Mr. 
M'Dougal.  They  were  astonished  at  such  a  pro- 
hibition, and  were  exceedingly  galled  by  the  tone 
and  manner  assumed  by  the  clerks  and  retainers 
of  the  Northwest  Company,  who  ruffled  about 
in  that  swelling  and  braggart  style  which  grows 
up  among  these  heroes  of  the  wilderness  ;  they, 
m  fact,  considered  themselves  lords  of  the  ascend- 
ant, and  regarded  the  hampered  and  harassed 
Astorians  as  a  conquered  people. 

On  the  following  day  M'Dougal  convened  tho 


COURSE   OF  MR.  APDOUGAL. 


f^dl 


axultation, 

lie  British 

drive  the 

M'Kenzie 
3,  in  which 
5  daylight, 
igal  of  the 
?he  latter, 
t;  just  as 
h  off,  they 
Northwest 
two  clerks, 
led  to  push 
g  the  rest 
iiantity  of 

n  the  7th 
ped  under 
le  British 
natives  of 
)f  hoisting 
a  by  Mr. 
uch  a  pro* 
T  the  tone 

retainers 
led  about 
ich  grows 
ess  ;  they, 
le  ascend- 

harassed 

vened  tho 


clerks,  and  read  to  them  an  extract  of  a  letter 
from  his  uncle,  Mr.  Angus  Shaw,  one  of  the 
principal  partners  of  the  Northwest  Company, 
announcing  the  coming  of  the  Fhcebe  and  Isaac 
Todd,  "  to  take  and  destroy  everything  Ameri- 
can on  the  northwest  coast." 

This  intelligence  was  received  without  dismay 
by  such  of  the  clerks  as  were  natives  of  the 
United  States.  They  had  felt  indignant  at  seeing 
their  national  flag  struck  by  a  Canadian  comman- 
der, and  the  British  flag  flowed,  as  it  were,  in 
their  faces.  They  had  been  stung  to  the  quick, 
also,  by  the  vaunting  airs  assumed  by  the  North- 
westers. In  this  mood  of  mind,  they  would 
willingly  have  nailed  their  colors  to  the  staff,  and 
defied  the  frigate.  She  could  not  come  within 
many  miles  of  the  fort,  they  observed,  and  any 
boats  she  might  send  could  be  destroyed  by  their 
cannon. 

There  were  cooler  and  more  calculating  spirits, 
however,  who  had  the  control  of  affairs,  and  felt 
nothing  of  the  patriotic  pride  and  indignation  of 
these  youths.  The  extract  of  the  letter  had, 
apparently,  been  read  by  M'Dougal,  merely  to 
.prepare  the  way  for  a  preconcerted  stroke  of 
management.  On  the  same  day  Mr.  M'Tavish 
proposed  to  purchase  the  whole  stock  of  goods 
Rnd  furs  belonging  to  the  company,  both  at  Astoria 
and  in  the  interior,  at  cost  and  charges.  Mr. 
M'Dougal  undertook  to  comply;  assuming  the 
whole  management  of  the  negotiation  in  virtue 
of  the  power  vested  in  him,  in  case  of  the  non- 
arrival  of  Mr.  Hunt.     That  power,  however,  was 


598 


ASTORIA. 


'"UA 


I   'v 'j 


limited  and  specific,  aud  did  not  extend  to  an 
operation  of  this  nature  and  extent ;  no  objec*;ion, 
ho\vever,  was  made  to  his  assumption,  and  he 
and  M'Tavish  soon  made  a  preliminary  arrange- 
ment, perfectly  riutistactory  to  the  latter. 

Mr.  Stuart,  and  the  reserve  party  of  North- 
westers, n/''ived  shortly  afterwards,  and  encimped 
with  M'Tavish.  The  former  exclaimed  loudly 
against  the  terms  of  tho  arrangement,  ar^d  insisted 
upon  a  reduction  of  the  prices.  Now  negotiations 
had  now  to  be  entered  into.  The  demands  of 
the  Northwesters  were  made  In  a  peremptory- 
tone,  and  they  seemed  disposed  tx)  dictate  like 
conquerors.  The  Americans  looked  on  with 
indignation  and  impatience.  They  considered 
M'Dougal  as  acting,  if  not  a  perfidious;  certainly 
a  craven  part.  He  was  r'ontinually  repairing  to 
the  camp  to  negotiate,  i^jtead  of  keeping  within 
his  walls  and  receiving  overtures  in  his  fortress. 
His  case,  they  observed,  was  not  so  desperate  as 
to  excuse  such  crouching.  He  might,  in  fact  hold 
out  for  his  own  terms.  The  Northwest  party  had 
lost  their  ammunition ;  they  had  no  goods  to 
trade  with  tho  natives  for  ^jrovisions  ;  and  they 
were  so  destitute  that  M'Dougal  had  absolutely  to. 
feed  them,  while  he  negotiated  with  them.  He, 
on  the  contrary,  was  well  lodged  and  victualled  ; 
had  sixty  men,  with  arms,  ammunition,  boats,  and 
everything  requisite  either  for  defense  or  retreat. 
The  party,  beneath  the  guns  of  his  fort,  were  at 
his  mercy ;  should  an  enemy  appear  in  the  offing, 
he  could  pack  up  the  most  valuable  part  of  the 
property  and  retire  to  some  place  of  concealment, 
or  make  off  for  the  interior. 


end  to  an 
)  objec^^^ion, 
D,  and  he 
y  arrange- 
r. 

of  North- 
.  encamped 
led   loudly 
xA  insisted 
legotiationa 
emands  of 
jeremptory 
iictate  like 
I    on    with 
considered 
S;  certainly 
epairing  to 
)ing  within 
is  fortress. 
3sperate  as 
n  fact  hold 
party  had 
goods  to 
;  and  they 
)solutely  to. 
hem.     He, 
victualled ; 
boats,  and 
or  retreat, 
•rt,  were  at 
the  offing, 
)art  of  the 
ucealmeut, 


Bargain  with  the  north  westers.  699 

These  considerations,  however,  had  no  weight 
with  Mr.  M'Dougal,  or  were  overruled  by  other 
motives.  The  terms  of  sale  were  lowered  by 
him  to  the  standard  fixed  by  Mr.  Stuart,  and  an 
agreement  executed  on  the  16th  of  October,  by 
which  the  furs  and  merchandise  of  all  kinds  in 
the  country,  belonging  to  Mr.  Astor,  passed  into 
the  possession  of  the  Northwest  Company  at 
about  a  third  of  their  real  value. ^  A  safe  passage 
through  the  Northwest  posts  was  guaranteed  to 
such  as  did  not  choose  to  enter  into  the  service 
of  that  Company,  and  the  amount  of  wages  due 
to  them  wr^  to  be  deducted  ttom  the  price  paid 
for  Astoria. 

1  Not  quite  $40,000  were  allowed  for  furs  worth  upwards  of 
$100,000.  B'^aver  was  valued  at  two  dollars  per  skin,  though 
worth  five  dollars.  Land  otter  at  fifty  cents,  though  worth 
five  dollars.  Sea-otter  at  twelve  dollars,  worth  from  forty -five 
to  sixty  dollars  ;  and  for  several  kinds  of  furs  nothing  was 
allowed.  Moreover,  the  goods  and  merchandise  for  the 
Indian  trade  ought  to  have  brought  three  times  the  amount 
for  which  they  were  sold. 

The  following  estimate  has  been  made  of  the  articles  on 
hand,  and  the  prices: — 

17,705  lbs.  beaver  parchment,  valued  at  $2.00  worth     $5.00 
460  old  coat  beaver,      .       .         "      "      1.66     "  8.50 

907  land  otter,  .       .  *'      «        .60     "  5.00 

68  sea-otter,  .       .       ,    •    "      "     12.00    "45  to  60.00 

30  "     "  ...  **      "       6.00     "         25.00 

Nothing  w«s  allowed  for 
1*^9  mink  skins,    worth  each       •       •       •       •    *    •        .40 

22  raccoon,  »t        « .40 

28  lynx,  mm  .....      2.00 

18  fox,    .  u       u 1.00 

106  "  u       u 1.50 

Mh'.ackbear,  «»       « 4.06 

16  grizzly  bear         «       « 10.00 


600 


ASTORIA. 


The  conduct  and  motives  of  Mr.  M'Dongal, 
throughout  the  whole  of  this  proceeding,  have 
been  strongly  questioned  by  the  other  partners. 
He  has  been  accused  of  availing  himself  of  a 
wrong  construction  of  powers  vested  in  him  at 
his  own  request,  and  of  sacrificing  the  interests 
of  Mr.  Astor  to  the  Northwest  Company,  under 
the  promise  or  hope  of  advantage  to  himself. 

He  always  insisted,  however,  that  he  made  the 
best  bargain  for  Mr.  Astor  that  circumstances 
would  permit ;  the  frigate  being  hourly  expected, 
in  which  case  the  whole  property  of  that  gentle- 
man would  be  liable  to  capture.  That  the  return 
of  Mr.  Hunt  was  problematical ;  the  frigate  in- 
tending to  cruise  along  the  coast  for  two  years, 
and  clear  it  of  all  American  vessels.  He  more- 
over averred,  and  M'Tavish  corroborated  his 
averment  by  certificate,  that  he  proposed  an  ar- 
rangement to  that  gentleman,  by  which  the  furs 
were  to  be  sent  to  Canton,  and  sold  there  at  Mr. 
Astor*s  risk,  and  for  his  account ;  but  the  propo- 
sition was  not  acceded  to. 

Notwithstanding  all  his  representations,  several 
of  the  persons  present  at  the  transaction,  and  ac- 
quainted with  the  whole  course  of  the  affair,  and 
among  the  number  Mr.  M'Kenzie  himself,  h.is  oc- 
casional coadjutor,  remained  firm  in  the  belief 
that  he  had  acted  a  hollow  part.  Neither  did  h<! 
succeed  in  exculpating  himself  to  Mr.  Astor  ;  that 
gentleman  declaring,  in  a  letter  written  some  time 
afterwards,  to  Mr.  Hunt,  that  he  considered  the 
property  virtually  given  away.  "  Had  our  place 
and  our  property,"  he  adds,  "been  fairly  cap- 


OPINION   OF  MR.  ASTJR. 


601 


tared,  I  should  have  preferred  it ;  I  should  not 
feel  as  if  I  were  disgraced." 

All  these  may  be  unmerited  suspicions  ;  but  it 
certainly  is  a  circumstance  strongly  corroborative 
of  them,  that  Mr.  M'Dougal,  shortly  after  con- 
cluding this  agreement,  became  a  member  of  the 
Northwest  Company,  and  received  a  share  pro* 
ductive  of  a  handsome  income. 


lii 


\M 


CHAPTER  LX. 


N  the  morning  of  the  30th  of  Novem- 
ber, a  sail  was  descried  doubling  Cape 
Disappointment.  It  came  to  anchor  in 
Baker's  Bay,  and  proved  to  be  a  ship  of  war. 
Of  what  nation  ?  was  now  the  anxious  inquiry. 
If  English,  why  did  it  come  alone  ?  where  was 
the  merchant  vessel  that  was  to  have  accompanied 
it?  If  American,  what  was  to  become  of  the 
newly  acquired  possession  of  the  Northwest 
Company? 

In  this  dilemma,  M'Tavish,  in  all  haste,  loaded 
two  barges  with  all  the  packages  of  furs  bearing 
the  mark  of  the  Northwest  Company,  and  made 
off  for  Tongue  Point,  three  miles  up  the  river. 
There  he  was  to  await  a  preconcerted  signal  from 
M'Dougal,  on  ascertaining  the  character  of  the 
sliip.  If  it  should  prove  American,  M'Tavish 
would  have  a  fair  start,  and  could  bear  off  his 
rich  cargo  to  the  interior.  It  is  singular  that  this 
prompt  mode  of  conveying  valuable,  but  easily 
transportable  effects  beyond  the  reach  of  a  hostile 
ship  should  not  have  suggested  itself  while  the 
property  belonged  to  Mr.  Ast<5r. 

In  the  meantime,  M'Dougal,  who  still  remained 
nominal  chief  at  the  fort,  launched  a  canoe, 
muuned  by  men  recently  in  the  employ  of  the 


THE  RACOON  SLOOP  OF   WAR, 


608 


r  Novem- 
ing  Cape 
anchor  in 
)  of  war. 
s  inquiry, 
vhere  was 
eompanied 
ne  of  the 
Northwest 

3te,  loaded 
rs  bearing 
and  made 
the  river, 
gnal  from 
ter  of  the 
M'Tavish 
ar  off  his 
r  that  this 
)ut  easily 
f  a  hostile 
while  the 

I  remained 
a   canoe, 
oy  of  the 


American  Fur  Company,  and  steered  for  the  ship. 
On  the  way,  he  instructed  his  men  to  pass  them- 
selves for  Americans  or  Englishmen,  according  to 
the  exigencies  of  the  case. 

The  vessel  proved  to  be  the  British  sloop  of 
war  Racoon,  of  twenty-six  guns,  and  one  hundred 
and  twenty  men,  commanded  by  Captain  Black. 
According  to  the  account  of  that  officer,  l^e 
frigate  Phoebe,  and  the  two  sloops  of  war  Cherub 
and  Racoon,  had  sailed  in  convoy  of  the  Isaac 
Todd  from  Rio  Janeiro.  On  board  of  the  Phoebe, 
Mr.  John  M'Donald,  a  partner  of  the  Northwest 
Company,  embarked  as  passenger,  to  profit  by 
the  anticipated  catastrophe  at  Astoria.  The  con- 
voy was  separated  by  stress  of  weather  off  Cape 
Horn.  The  three  ships  of  war  came  together 
again  at  the  island  of  Juan  Fe'^nandez,  their  ap- 
pointed rendezvous,  but  waited  in  vain  for  the 
Isaac  Todd. 

In  the  meantime,  intelligence  was  received  of 
the  mischief  that  Commodore  Porter  was  doing 
among  the  British  whale  ships.  Commodore 
Hillyer  immediately  set  sail  in  quest  6f  him,  with 
the  Phoebe  and  the  Cherub,  transferring  Mr, 
M'Donald  to  the  Racoon,  and  ordering  that  vessel 
to  proceed  to  the  Columbia. 

The  officers  of  the  Racoon  were  in  high  spirits. 
The  agents  of  the  Northwest  Company,  in  insti- 
gating the  expedition,  had  talked  of  immense 
booty  to  be  made* by  the  fortunate  captors  of 
Astoria.  Mr.  M'Donald  had  kep|  up  the  excite- 
ment during  the  voyage,  so  that  not  a  midship- 
man  but   revelled   in   dreams    of  ample   prize- 


!  ' 


■'  '■'■  s 


V'V 


604 


ASTORIA, 


i 


i 


monej,  nor  a  lieutenaDt  that  would  havo  sold  his 
chance  for  a  thousand  pounds.  Their  disappoint- 
ment, therefore,  may  easily  be  conceived,  when 
they  learned  that  their  warlike  attack  upon  As- 
toria had  been  forestalled  by  a  snug  commercial 
arrangement ;  that  their  anticipated  booty  had 
become  British  property  in  the  regular  course  of 
traffic,  and  that  all  this  had  been  effected  by  the 
very  Company  which  had  been  instrumental  in 
getting  them  sent  on  what  they  now  stigmatized 
as  a  fooFs  errand.  They  felt  as  if  they  had  been 
duped  and  made  tools  of,  by  a  set  of  shrewd  men 
of  traffic,  who  had  employed  them  to  crack  the 
nut,  while  they  carried  ofP  the  kernel.  In  a 
word,  M'Dougal  found  himself  so  ungraciously 
received  by  his  countrymen  on  board  of  the  ship, 
that  he  was  glad  to  cut  short  his  visit,  and  return 
to  shore.  He  was  busy  at  the  fort,  making  prep- 
arations for  the  reception  of  the  captain  of  the 
Racoon,  when  his  one-eyed  Indian  father-in-law 
made  his  appearance,  with  a  train  of  Chinook 
warriors,  all  painted  and  equipped  in  warlike 
style. 

Old  Comcomly  had  beheld,  with  dismay,  the 
arrival  of  a  "  big  war  canoe "  displaying  the 
British  flag.  The  shrewd  old  savage  had  become 
something  of  a  politician  in  the  course  Of  his 
daily  visits  at  the  fort  He  knew  of  the  war  ex- 
isting between  the  nations,  but  knew  nothing  of 
the  arrangement  between  M'Dougal  and  M'Tav- 
ish.  He  trembled,  therefore,  for  the  power  of 
his  white  son-in-law,  and  the  new-fledged  grandeur 
of  his  daughter,  and  assembled  his  warriors  in  all 


WAR  SPIRIT  OF  C0MC0ML7. 


«05 


ha&^x).  "  King  George "  said  he,  "  has  sent  his 
great  canoe  to  destioy  the  fort,  and  make  slaves 
of  all  the  inhabitants.  Shall  we  suffer  it  ?  The 
Americans  are  the  first  white  men  that  have  fixed 
themselves  in  the  land.  They  have  treated  us 
like  brothers.  Their  great  chief  has  taken  my 
daughter  to  be  his  squaw :  we  are,  therefore,  as 
one  people." 

His  warriors  all  determined  to  stand  by  the 
Americans  to  the  last,  and  to  this  effect  they  came 
painted  and  armed  for  battle.  Comcomly  made  a 
spirited  war-speech  to  his  son-in-law.  He  offered 
to  kill  every  one  of  King  George's  men  that 
should  attempt  to  land.  It  was  an  easy  matter. 
The  ship  could  not  approach  within  six  miles  of 
the  fort ;  the  crew  could  only  land  in  boats.  The 
woods  reached  to  the  water's  edge  ;  in  these,  he 
and  his  warriors  would  conceal  themselves,  and 
shoot  down  the  enemy  as  fast  as  they  put  foot  on 
shore. 

IMTDougal  was,  doubtless,  properly  sensible  of 
this  parental  devotion  on  the  part  of  his  savage 
father-in-law,  and  perhaps  a  little  rebuked  by  the 
game  spirit,  so  opposite  to  his  own.  He  assured 
Comcomly,  however,  that  his  solicitude  for  the 
safety  of  himself  and  the  princess  was  super- 
fluous ;  as,  though  the  ship  belonged  to  King 
George,  her  crew  would  not  injure  the  Ameri- 
cans, or  their  Indian  allies.  He  advised  him  and 
Ills  warriors,  therefore,  to  lay  aside  their  weapons 
and  war  shirts,  wash  off  the  paint  from  their 
faces  and  bodies,  and  appear  like  clean  and  civil 
savages,  to  receive  the  strangers  courteously. 


606 


ASTORIA. 


r 


L 


I 


Comcomly  was  sorely  puzzled  at  this  advice, 
which  accorded  so  little  with  his  Indian  notions 
of  receiving  a  hostile  nation,  and  it  was  only  after 
repeated  and  positive  assurances  of  the  amicable 
intentions  of  the  strangers  that  he  was  induced  to 
lower  his  fighting  tone.  He  said  something  to 
his  warriors  explanatory  of  this  singular  posture 
of  affairs,  and  in  vindication,  perhaps,  of  the 
pacific  temper  of  his  son-in-law.  They  all  gave 
a  shrug  and  an  Indian  grunt  of  acquiescence,  and 
went  off  sulkily  to  their  village,  to  lay  aside  their 
weapons  for  the  present. 

The  proper  arrangements  being  made  for  the 
reception  of  Captain  Black,  that  ofiicer  caused 
his  ship's  boats  to  be  manned,  and  landed  with 
befitting  state  at  Astoria.  From  the  talk  that 
had  been  made  by  the  Northwest  Company  of 
the  strength  of  the  place,  and  the  armament  they 
had  required  to  assist  in  its  reduction,  he  expected 
to  find  a  fortress  of  some  importance.  When  he 
beheld  nothing  but  stockades  and  bastions,  cal- 
culated for  defense  against  naked  savages,  he  felt 
an  emotion  of  indignant  surprise,  mingled  with 
something  of  the  ludicrous.  "  Is  this  the  fort,"  cried 
he,  "  abovit  which  I  have  heard  so  much  talking  ? 
D — n  me,  but  Fd  batt'er  it  down  in  two  hours 
with  a  four  pounder ! " 

Wlien  he  learned,  however,  the  amount  of  rich 
furs  that  had  been  passed  into  the  hands  of  the 
Northwesters,  he  was  outrageous,  and  insisted 
that  an  inventory  should  be  taken  of  all  the  prop- 
erty purchased  of  the  Americans,  "  with  a  view 
to  ulterior  measures  in  England,  for  the  recovery 
of  the  value  from  the  Northwest  Company." 


I  I 


ASTORIA    CHANGES  MAS  TEES. 


607 


As  he  grew  cool,  however,  he  gave  over  all 
idea  of  preferring  such  a  claim,  and  reconciled 
himself,  as  well  as  he  could,  to  the  idea  of  having 
been  forestalled  by  his  bargaining  coadjutors. 

On  the  12  th  of  December,  the  fate  of  Astoria 
was  consummated  by  a  regular  ceremonial.  Cap- 
tain Black,  attended  by  his  officers,  entered  the 
tort,  caused  the  British  standard  to  be  erected, 
broke  a  bottle  of  wine,  and  declared,  in  a  loud 
voice,  that  he  took  possession  of  the  establishment 
and  of  the  country,  iu  the  name  of  his  Britannic 
Majesty,  changing  the  name  of  Astoria  to  that 
of  Fort  George. 

The  Indian  warriors,  who  had  offered  their  ' 
services  to  repel  the  strangers,  were  present  on 
this  occasion.  It  was  explained  to  them  as  being 
a  friendly  arrangement  and  transfer,  but  they 
shook  their  heads  grimly,  and  considered  it  an  act 
of  subjugation  of  their  ancient  allies.  They  re- 
gretted that  they  had  complied  with  M'Dougal's 
wishes,  in  laying  asi('  •  their  arms,  and  remarked, 
that,  however  the  Americans  might  conceal  the 
fact,  they  were  undoubtedly  all  slaves ;  nor  could 
they  be  persuaded  of  the  contrary,  until  they  be- 
held the  Racoon  depart  without  taking  away  any 
prisoners. 

As  to  Comcomly,  he  no  longer  prided  himself 
upon  his  white  son-in-law,  but,  whenever  he  was 
asked  about  him,  shook  his  head,  and  replied,  that 
liis  daughter  had  made  a  mistake,  and,  instead  of 
getting  a  great  warrior  for  a  husband,  had  married 
herself  to  a  squaw  -—  ^ 


;  m 


CHAPTER  LXI. 


|AVING  given  the  catastrophe  at  the 
Fort  of  Astoria,  it  remains  now  but  to 
gather  up  a  few  loose  ends  of  this  widely 
excursive  narrative  and  conclude.  On  the  28th 
of  February  the  brig  Pedler  anchored  in  Colum- 
bia River.  It  will  be  recollected  that  Mr.  Hunt 
had  purchased  this  vessel  at  the  Sandwich  Islands, 
to  take  off  the  furs  collected  at  the  factory,  ard 
to  restore  the  Sandwich  Islanders  to  their  homes. 
When  that  gentleman  learned,  however,  the  pre- 
cipitate and  summary  manner  in  which  the  prop- 
erty had  been  bargained  away  by  M'Dougal,  he 
expressed  his  indignation  in  the  strongest  terms, 
and  determined  to  make  an  effort  to  get  back  the 
furs.  As  soon  as  his  wishes  were  known  in  this 
respect,  M*Dougal  came  to  sound  him  on  behalf 
of  the  Northwest  Company,  intimating  that  ho 
had  no  doubt  the  peltries  might  be  repurchased 
Jit  an  advance  of  fifty  per  cent.  This  Overture 
was  not  calculated  to  soothe  the  angry  feelings  of 
Mr.  Hunt,  and  his  indignation  was  complete,  when 
he  discovered  that  M'Dougal  had  become  a  partner 
of  the  Northwest  Company,  and  had  actually  been 
80  since  the  23d  of  December.  Ho  had  kept  his 
partnership  a  secret,  however ;  had  retained  the 
papers  of  the  Pacific  Fur  Company  in  his  pos- 


AOIEU  TO  ASTORIA. 


609 


e  at  the 
»w  but  to 
lis  widely 
the  28th 
n  Colum- 
Mr.  Hunt 
h  Islands, 
jtory,  ard 
jir  homes. 
•,  the  pre- 
the  prop- 
>ougal,  he 
jst  terms, 
;  back  the 
vn  in  this 
)n  behalf 
r  that  ho 
lurchased 
Overture 
lelings  of 
ete,  when 
a  partner 
ally  been 
kept  his 
lined  the 
his  pos- 


session ;  and  had  continued  to  act  as  Mr.  A  tor's 
agent,  though  two  of  the  partners  of  the  other 
company,  Mr.  M'Kenzie  and  M--  Clarke,  were 
present.  He  had,  moreover,  divulged  to  his  new 
associates  all  that  he  knew  as  to  Mr.  Astor's  plans 
and  affairs,  and  had  made  copies  of  his  business 
letters  for  their  perusal. 

Mr.  Hunt  now  considered  the  whole  conduct 
jf  M'Dougal  hollow  and  collusive.  His  only 
thought  was,  therefore,  to  get  all  the  papers  of  the 
concern  out  of  his  hands,  and  bring  the  business 
to  a  close ;  for  the  interests  of  Mr.  Astor  were 
yet  completely  at  stake ;  the  drafts  of  the  Nortli  - 
west  Company  in  his  favor,  for  the  purchase  money, 
not  having  yet  been  obtained.  With  some  difficulty 
he  succeeded  in  getting  possession  of  the  papers. 
The  bills  or  drafts  were  delivered  without  hes- 
itation. The  latter  he  remitted  to  Mr.  Astor  by 
some  of  his  associates,  who  were  about  to  cross 
the  continent  to  New  York.  This  done,  he  em- 
barked on  board  the  Pedler,  on  the  3d  of  April, 
accompanied  by  two  of  the  clerks,  Mr.  Seton  and 
Mr.  Halsey,  and  bade  a  final  adieu  to  Astoria. 

The  next  day,  April  4th,  Messrs.  Clarke, 
M'Kenzie,  David  Stuart,  and  such  of  the  Asto- 
rians  as  had  not  entered  into  the  service  of  the 
Northwest  Company,  set  out  to  cross  the  Rocky 
Mountains.  It  is  not  our  intention  to  take  the 
reader  another  journey  across  those  rugged 
barriers ;  but  we  will  step  forward  with  the  trav- 
ellers to  a  distance  on  their  way,  merely  to  re- 
late their  interview  with  a  character  already  noted 

in  this  work. 

89 


If  ^:ii 


€10 


ASTORIA. 


As  the  party  were  proceeding  up  the  Columbia) 
near  the  mouth  of  the  Wallah- Wallah  River, 
several  Indian  canoes  put  off  from  the  shore  to 
overtake  them,  and  a  voice  called  upon  them  in 
French  and  requested  them  to  .top.  They  ao 
cordii  jly  put  to  shore,  an.  re  joined  by  l!hose 
in  the  canoes.  To  their  sti  r»  if^*?.  *hey  recognized 
in  the  person  who  had  hai.  .  ihc?^  the  Indian 
wife  of  Pierre  Dorion,  accompanied  o/  her  two 
children.  She  had  a  story  to  tell,  involving  the 
fete  of  seveml  of  our  unfortunate  adventurers.    « 

Mr.  John  Ri3ed,  the  Hibernian,  it  will  be  re- 
membered, had  been  detached  during  the  summer 
to  t}^*  Snake  River.  His  party  consisted  of  four 
Canadians,  Giles  Le  Clerc,  Fran9oi8  Landry,  Jean 
Baptiste  Turcx>t,  and  Andre  La  Chapelle,  together 
with  two  hunters,  Pierre  Dorion  and  Pierre  De- 
launay ;  Dorion,  as  usual,  being  accompanied  by 
his  wife  and  children.  The  objects  of  this  ex- 
pedition were  twofold;  to  trap  beaver,  and  to 
search  for  the  three  hunters,  Robinson,  Hoback, 
and  Rezner. 

In  the  course  of  the  autumn.  Reed  lost  one 
man,  Landry,  by  death  ;  another  one,  Pierre  De- 
launay,  who  was  of  a  sullen,  perverse  disposition, 
left  him  in  a  moody  fit,  and  was  never  heard  of 
afterwards.  The  number  of  his  party  was  not, 
however,  reduced  by  these  losses,  as  the  three 
hunters,  Robinson,  Hoback,  and  Rezner,  had 
joined  it. 

Reed  now  built  a  house  on  the  Snake  River, 
fbr  their  winter  quarters ;  which  being  completed, 
the  jrarty  set  about  trapping.     Rezner,  Le  Clerc, 


A  SQUAVrS  HEROTC  CONDUCT.        611 

and  Pierre  Dorion,  went  about  five  days'  jouniey 
from  the  wintering  house,  to  a  part  of  the  country 
well  stocked  with  beaver.  Here  they  put  up  a 
hut,  and  proceeded  to  trap  with  great  success. 
While  the  men  were  out  hunting,  Pierre  Doribo's 
wife  remained  at  home  to  dress  the  skins  and  pre- 
pare the  meals.  She  was  thus  employed  cue 
evening  about  the  beginning  of  January,  cooking 
the  supper  of  the  hunters,  when  she  heard  foot- 
steps, and  Le  Clerc  staggered,  pale  and  bleeding, 
into  the  hut.  He  informed  her  that  a  party  of 
savages  had  surprised  them,  while  at  their  traps, 
and  had  killed  Rezner  and  her  husband.  He  had 
barely  strength  left  to  give  this  information,  when 
he  sank  upon  the  ground. 

The  poor  woman  saw  that  the  only  chance  for 
life  was  instant  flight,  but,  in  this  exigency, 
showed  that  presence  of  mind  and  force  of  char- 
acter for  which  she  had  frequently  been  noted. 
With  great  difficulty,  she  caught  two  of  the  horses 
belon^ng  to  the  party.  Then  collecting  her 
clothes  and  a  small  quantity  of  beaver  meat  and 
dried  salmon,  she  packed  them  upon  one  of  the 
horses,  and  helped  the  wounded  man  to  mount 
upon  it  On  the  other  horse  she  mounted  with 
her  two  children,  and  hurried  away  from  this  dan- 
gerous neighborhood,  directing  her  flight  to  Mr. 
Reed's  establishment  On  the  third  day,  she  de- 
dcried  a  number  of  Indians  on  horseback  proceed 
hig  in  an  easterly  direction.  She  immediately 
dismounted  with  her  children,  and  helped  Le 
Clerc  likewise  to  dismount,  and  all  concealed 
themselves.     Fortunately  they  escaped  the  sharp 


612 


ASTORIA. 


I 


V 


• 


eyes  of  the  savages,  but  had  to  proceed  with  th« 
utmost  caution.  That  night  they  slept  without 
firti  or  water ;  she  managed-  to  keep  her  children 
warm  in  her  arms  ;  but  before  moruing,  poor  Le 
Clerc  died. 

"With  the  dawn  of  day  the  resolute  woman  re- 
sumed her  course,  and,  on  the  fourth  day,  reached 
the  house  of  Mr.  Reed.  It  was  deserted,  and  all 
round  were  marks  of  blood  and  signs  of  a  furious 
massacre.  Not  doubting  that  Mr.  Reed  and  hig 
party  had  all  fallen''  victims,  she  turned  in  fresh 
horror  from  the  spot  For  two  days  she  con- 
tinued hurrying  forward,  ready  to  sink  for  want 
of  food,  but  m\ore  solicitous  about  her  children 
than  herself.  At  length  she  reached  a  range  of 
the  Rocky  Mountains,  near  the  upper  part  of  the 
Wallah- Wallah  River.  Here  she  chose  a  wild 
lonely  ravine,  as  her  place  of  winter  refuge. 

She  had  fortunately  a  buffalo  robe  and  three 
deer-skins ;  of  these,  and  of  pine  bark  and  cedar 
branches,  she  constructed  a  rude  wigwam,  which 
he  pitched  beside  a  mountain  spring.  Having  no 
other  food,  she  killed  the  two  horses,  and  smoked 
their  flesh.  The  skins  aided  to  cover  her  hut 
Here  she  dragged  out  the  winter,  with  no  other 
company  than  her  two  children.  Towards  the 
middle  of  March,  her  provisions  were  nearly  ex- 
hausted. She  therefore  packed  up  the  remainder, 
slung  it  on  her  back,  and,  with  her  helpless  little 
ones,  set  out  again  on  her  wanderings.  Crossing 
the  ridge  of  mountains,  she  descended  to  the 
banks  of  the  Wallah- Wallah,  and  kept  along  them 
until  she  arrived  where  that  river  throws  itself 


PROVOCATION  CAUSES  REVENGE.      618 


Into  the  Columbia.  She  was  hospitably  received 
and  entertained  by  the  Wallah- Wallahs,  and  had 
been  nearly  two  weeks  among  them  when  the  two 
canoes  passed. 

On  being  interrogated,  she  could  assign  no 
reason  for  this  murderous  attack  of  the  savages  ; 
it  appeared  to  be  perfectly  wanton  and  unpro- 
voked. Some  of  the  Astorians  supposed  it  an 
act  of  butchery  by  a  roving  band  of  Blackfeet ; 
others,  however,  and  with  greater  probability  of 
correctness,  have  ascribed  it  to  the  tribe  of  Pierced- 
nose  Indians,  in  revenge  for  the  death  of  their 
comrade  hanged  by  order  of  Mr.  Clarke.  If  so, 
it  shows  that  these  sudden  and  apparently  wanton 
outbreakings  of  sanguinary  violence  on  the  part 
of  the  savages,  have  often  some  previous,  though 
perhaps  remote,  provocation. 

The  narrative  of  the  Indian  woman  closes  the 
checkered  adventures  of  some  of  the  personages 
of  this  motley  story ;  such  as  the  honest  Hiber- 
nian Reed,  and  Dorion  the  hybrid  interpreter. 
Turcot  and  La  Chapelle  were  two  of  the  men 
who  fell  off'  from  Mr.  Crooks  in  the  course  of  his 
wintry  journey,  and  had  subsequently  such  disas- 
trous times  among  the  Indians.  We  cannot  but 
feel  some  sympathy  with  that  persevering  trio  of 
Kentuckians,  Robinson,  Rezner,  and  Hoback ; 
who  twice  turned  back  when  on  their  way  home- 
ward, and  lingered  in  the  wilderness  to  perish  by 
the  hands  of  savages. 

The  return  parties  from  Astoria,  both  by  sea 
and  land,  experienced  on  the  way  as  many  adven- 
tures, vicissitudes,  and  mishaps,  as  the  far-famed 


;u 


\ 


614 


ASTORIA, 


I 


heroes  of  the  Odyssey ;  they  rt  ached  their  des* 
tination  at  different  times,  bearing  tidings  to  Mr, 
Astor  of  the  unfortunate  termination  of  his  enter* 
prise.) 

That  gentleman,  however,  was  not  disposed, 
even  yet,  to  give  the  matter  up  as  lost*  On  the 
contrary,  his  spirit  was  roused  by  wha^  he  con- 
sidered ungenerous  and  unmerited  conduct  on  the . 
part  of  the  Northwest  Company.  "  After  their 
treatment  of  me,''  said  he,  in  a  letter  to  Mr. 
Hunt,  '^  I  have  no  idea  of  remaining  quiet  and 
idle."  He  determined,  therefore,  as  soo^  as  cir- 
cumstances would  permit,  to  resume  his  enter- 
prise. 

At  the  return  of  peace,  Astoria,  with  the  ad- 
jacent country,  reverted  to  the  United  States  by 
the  treaty  of  Ghent,  on  the  principle  of  8tatu$ 
ante  helium^  and  Captain  Biddle  was  despatched 
in  the  sloop  of  war  Ontario,  to  take  formal  pos- 
session. 

In  the  winter  of  1815,  a  law  was  passed  by 
Congress  prohibiting  all  traffic  of  British  traders 
within  the  territories  of  the  United  States. 

The  favorable  moment  seemed  now  to  Mr.' 
Astor  to  have  arrived  for  the  revival  of  his  favor- 
ite enterprise,  but  new  difficulties  had  grown  up 
to  impede  it  The  Northwest  Company  were 
now  in  complete  occupation  of  the  Columbia 
Eiver,  and  its  chief  tributary  streams,  holding  the 
posts  which  he  had  established,  and  carrying  on  a 
trade  throughout  the  neighboring  region,  in  defi- 
ance of  the  prohibitory  law  of  Congress,  which, 
in  effect,  was  a  dead  letter  beyond  the  moim- 
tains. 


COMPLICATIONB  AND  DIFFICULTIEB.    6U 


To  disposiiess  theni)  would  be  an  undertaking 
of  almost  a  belligerent  nature ;  for  their  agents 
and  retainers  were  well  armed,  and  skilled  in  the 
use  of  weapons,  as  is  usual  with  Indian  traders. 
The  ferocious  and  bloody  contests  which  had 
taken  place  between  the  rival  trading  parties  of 
the  Northwest  and  Hudson's  Bay  Companies,  had 
shown  what  might  be  expected  from  oommei^^al 
feuds  in  the  lawless  depths  of  the  wilderness. 
Mr.  Astor  did  not  think  it  advisable,  therefore,  to 
attempt  the  matter  without  the  protection  of  the 
American  flag ;  under  which  his  people  might 
rally  in  case  of  need.  He  accordingly  made  an 
informal  overture  to  the  President  of  the  United 
States,  Mr.  Madison,  through  Mr.  Gallatin,  offer- 
ing to  renew  his  enterprise,  and  to  reestablish  As* 
toria,  provided  it  would  be  protected  by  the  Amer* 
ican  flag,  and  made  a  military  post ;  stating  that 
the  whole  force  required  would  not  exceed  a  lieu- 
tenant's command. 

The  application,  approved  and  recommended 
by  Mr.  Gallatin,  one  of  the  most  enlightened 
statesmen  of  our  country,  was  fevorably  received, 
but  no  step  was  taken  in  consequence ;  the  Pres* 
ident  not  being  disposed,  in  all  probability,  to 
commit  himself  by  any  direct  co^.  ntenance  or  overt 
jtct.  Discouraged  by  this  supineness  on  the  pail 
of  the  government,  Mr.  Astor  did  not  think  fit  to 
renew  his  overtures  in  a  more  formal  manner,  and 
che  favorable  moment  for  the  re-occupation  of 
Astoria  was  suffered  to  pass  unimproved. 

The  British  trading  establishments  were  thus 
enabled,  without  molestation,  to  strike  deep  thek 


i 


616 


ASTORIA. 


I  r. 


i  'i' 


roots,  and  extend  their  ramifications,  in  despite 
of  the  prohibition  of  Congress,  until  they  had 
spread  themselves  over  the  rich  field  of  enterprise 
opened  by  Mr.  Astor^  The  British  government 
soon  began  to  perceive  the  importance  of  this  re- 
gion, and  to  desire  to  include  it  within  their  ter- 
ritorial domains.  A  question  has  consequently 
risen  as  to  the  right  to  the  soil,  and  has  become 
one  of  the  most  perplexing  now  open  between 
the  United  States  and  Great  Britian.  In  the  first 
treaty  relative  to  it,  under  date  of  October  20th, 
1818,  the  question  was  left  unsettled,  and  it  was 
agreed  that  the  country  on  the  northwest  coast  of 
America,  westward  of  the  Rocky  Mountains, 
claimed  by  either  nation,  should  be  open  to  the 
inhabitants  of  both  for  ten  years,  for  the  purposes 
of  trade,  with  the  equal  right  of  navigating  all  its 
rivers.  When  these  ten  years  had  expired,  a 
subsequent  treaty,  in  1828,  extended  the  arrange- 
ment to  ten  additional  years.  So  the  matter  stands 
at  present. 

On  casting  back  our  eyes  over  the  series  of 
events  we  have  recorded,  we  see  no  reason  to  at- 
tribute the  failure  of  this  great  commercial  under- 
taking to  any  fault  in  the  scheme,  or  omission  in 
the  execution  of  it,  on  the  part  of  the  projector 
It  was  a  magnificent  enterprise ;  well  concerted 
and  carried  on,  without  regard  to  difficulties  or 
expense.  A  succession  of  adverse  circumstances 
and  cross  purposes,  however,  beset  it  almost  from 
the  outset ;  some  of  them,  in  fact,  arisuig  from 
neglect  of  the  orders  and  instructions  of  Mr. 
Astor.     The  first  crippling  blow  was  the  loss  of 


CAUSES   OF  NON-SUCCESS, 


617 


in  despite 
they  had 
enterprise 
overnment 
Df  this  re- 
.  their  ter- 
Dsequently 
as  become 
n  between 
In  the  first 
tober  20th, 
and  it  was 
jst  coast  of 
Mountains, 
pen  to  the 
le  purposes 
iting  all  its 
expired,  a 
le  arrange- 
.tter  stands 

series  of 
ason  to  at- 
cial  under- 
mission  in 

projector 

concerted 
Rculties  or 
umstances 
most  from 
ising  from 
13  of  Mr. 

e  loss  of 


the  Tonquin,  which  clearly  would  not  have 
happened,  had  Mr.  Aster's  earnest  injunctions 
with  regard  to  the  natives  been  attended  to.  Had 
this  ship  performed  her  voyage  prosperously,  and 
revisited  Astoria  in  due  time,  the  trade  of  ths 
establishment  would  have  taken  its  preconcerted 
course,  and  the  spirits  of  all  concerned  been  kept 
up  by  a  confident  prospect  of  success.  Her  dis- 
mal catastrophe  struck  a  chill  into  every  heart, 
and  prepared  the  way  for  subsequent  despondency. 

Another  cause  of  embarrassment  and  loss  was 
the  departure  from  the  plan  of  Mr.  Astor,  as  to 
the  voyage  of  the  Beaver,  subsequent  to  her 
visiting  Astoria.  The  variation  from  this  plan 
produced  a  series  of  cross  purposes,  disastrous  to 
the  establishment,  and  detained  Mr.  Hunt  absent 
from  his  post,  when  his  presence  there  was  of 
vital  importance  to  the  enterprise ;  so  essential  is 
it  for  an  agent,  in  any  great  and  complicated 
undertaking,  to  execute  faithfully,  and  to  the  letter, 
the  part  marked  out  for  him  by  the  master  mind 
which  has  concerted  the  whole. 

The  breaking  out  of  the  war  between  the 
United  States  and  Great  Britain,  multiplied  the 
hazards  and  embarrassments  of  the  enterprise. 
The  disappointment  as  to  convoy,  rendered  it 
difficult  to  keep  up  reinforcements  and  supplies; 
find  the  loss  of  the  Lark  added  to  the  tissue  of 
misadventures. 

That  Mr.  Astor  battled  resolutely  against  every 
difficulty,  and  pursued  his  course  in  defiance  of 
every  loss,  has  been  sufficiently  shown.  Had  he 
been  seconded  by  suitable   agents,  and  properly 


ill 


m 


618 


ASTORIA, 


protected  by  govemmeDt,  the  ultimate  fiuluro  of 
his  plan  might  yet  have  been  averted.  It  was 
bis  great  misfortune,  that  his  agents  were  not  im- 
bued with  his  own  spirit.  Some  had  not  capacity 
sufficient  to  comprehend  the  real  nature  and  extent 
of  his  scheme;  others  i^^ere  alien  in  feeling  and 
interest,  and  had  been  brought  up  in  the  service 
of  a  rival  company.  Whatever  sympathies  they 
might  originally  have  had  with  him,  were  impaired, 
if  not  destroyed,  by  the  war.  They  looked  upon 
his  cause  as  desperate,  and  only  considered  how 
they  might  make  interest  to  regain  a  situation 
under  their  former  employers.  The  absence  of 
Mr.  Hunt,  the  only  real  representative  of  Mr. 
Astor,  at  the  time  of  the  capitulation  with  the 
Northwest  Company,  completed  the  series  of 
cross  purposes.  Had  that  gentleman  been  pres- 
ent, the  transfer,  in  all  probability,  would  not 
have  taken  place. 

It  is  painfiil,  at  all  times,  to  see  a  grand  and 
beneficial  stroke  of  genius  fail  of  its  aim :  but  we 
regret  the  failure  of  this  enterprise  in  a  national 
point  of  view;  for,  had  it  been  crowned  with 
success,  it  would  have  redounded  greatly  to  the 
advantage  and  extension  of  our  commerce.  The 
profits  drawn  from  the  country  in  question  by  the 
British  Fur  Company,  though  of  ample  amount, 
form  no  criterion  by  which  to  judge  of  the  advan- 
tages that  would  have  arisen  had  it  been  entirely 
m  the  hands  of  the  citizens  of  the  United  States. 
That  company,  as  has  been  shown,  is  limited  in 
the  nature  and  scope  of  its  operations,  and  can 
make  but  little  use  of  the  maritime  facilities  held 


CONCLUDING  REFLECTIONS. 


fiuluro  of 
L  It  was 
ire  not  im- 
ot  capacity 
and  extent 
eeling  and 
he  service 
ithiea  they 
e  impaired, 
oked  upon 
iered  how 
El  situation 
jibsence  of 
ve  of  Mr. 
I  with  the 

series  of 
been  pres- 
would  not 

vrand  and 

n :  but  we 

a  national 

med  with 

tly  to  the 

roe.     The 

ion  by  the 

i  amount, 

he  advan- 

n  entirely 

ed  States. 

imitcd  in 

and  can 

ities  held 


619 


out  by  an  emporium  and  a  harbor  on  that  coast 
In  our  hands,  besides  the  roving  bands  of  titippers 
and  traders,  the  country  would  have  been  ex- 
plored and  settled  by  industrious  husbandmen ; 
and  the  fertile  valleys  bordering  its  rivers,  and 
shut  up  among  its  mountains,  would  have  been, 
made  to  pour  forth  their  agricultural  treasures  to 
contribute  to  the  general  wealth. 

In  respect  to  commerce,  we  should  have  had  a 
line  of  trading  posts  from  the  IVIississippi  and  the 
Missouri  across  the  Rocky  Mountains,  forming  a 
high  road  from  the  great  regions  of  the  west  to 
the  shores  of  the  Pacific.  We  sliould  have  had 
a  Jbrtified  post  and  port  at  the  mouth  of  the  Co- 
lumbia, commanding  the  trade  of  that  river  and 
its  tributaries,  and  of  a  wide  extent  of  country 
and  sea-coas*;  carrying  on  an  u,ctive  and  profit- 
able commerce  with  the  Sandwich  Islands,  and  a 
direct  and  frequent  communication  with  China. 
In  a  word,  Astoria  might  have  realized  the  anti- 
cipations of  Mr.  Astor,  so  well  understood  and 
appreciated  by  Mr.  Jefferson,  in  gradually  becom- 
ing a  commercial  empire  beyond  the  mountains, 
peopled  by  "free  and  independent  Americans, 
and  linked  with  us  by  ties  of  blood  and  interest." 

We  repeat,  therefore,  our  sincere  regret,  that 
our  government  should  have  neglected  the  over- 
ture of  Mr.  Astor,  and  suffered  the  moment  to 
pass  by,  when  full  possession  of  this  region  might 
have  been  taken  quietly,  as  a  matter  of  course, 
and  a  military  post  established,  without  dispute, 
at  Astoria.  Our  statesmen  have  become  sensi- 
ble,   when    too  late,   of  the   importance   of  this 


lii" 


620 


ASTORIA. 


measure.  Bills  have  repeatedly  been  brought 
into  Congress  for  the  purpose,  but  without  suc- 
cess ;  and  our  rightful  possessions  on  that  coast, 
as  well  as  our  trade  on  the  Pacific,  have  no  raUy- 
iug  point  protected  bj  the  national  flag,  and  by  a 
.military  force. 

In  the  mean  time,  the  second  period  of  ten 
years  is  fast  elapsing.  In  1838,  the  question  of 
title  will  again  come  up,  and  most  probably,  in 
the  present  amicable  state  of  our  relations  with 
Gieat  Britain,  will  be  again  postponed.  Every 
year,  however,  the  litigated  claim  is  growing  in 
importance.  There  is  no  pride  so  jealous  and 
irritable  as  the  pride  of  territory.  As  one  wave 
of  emigration  after  another  rolls  into  the  vast 
regions  of  the  west,  and  our  settlements  stretch 
towards  the  Rocky  Mountains,  the  e^ger  eyes  of 
our  pioneers  will  pry  beyond,  and  they  will  be- 
come impatient  of  any  barrier  or  impeliiae^-  m 
the  way  of  what  they  consider  a  grand  ou,Uat  of 
our  empire.  Should  any  circumstauce,  thorefuie, 
unfortunately  occur  to  disturb  the  present  har- 
mony of  the  two  nations,  this  ill-adjusted  ques- 
tion, which  now  lies  dormant,  may  suddenly  start 
up  into  one  of  belligerent  import,  and  Astoria 
become  the  watchword  in  a  contest  for  dominion 
on  the  shores  of  the  Pacific. 


Since  tiia  above  '^is  written,  the  question  of 
dominion  over  the  vast  territory  beyond  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  which  f  ^ra  *Tme  threatened  to  disturb 
the  peacef  ji  I'^iAtions  with  our  transatlantic  kin- 


CONCLUDING  REFLECTIONS. 


621 


ih 


dred,  has  been  finally  settled  in  a  spirit  of  mutual 
concession,  and  the  venerable  projector  whose 
early  enterprise  forms  the  subject  of  this  work 
had  the  satisfaction  of  knowing,  ere  his  eyes 
closed  upon  the  world,  that  the  flag  of  his  country 
again  waved  over  "  Astoria." 


APPENDIX. 


[| 


APPENDIX. 


Draught  of  a  Petition  to  Congress^  tent  by  Mr,  Astof 

in  1812. 

To  the  honorable  the  Senate  and  House  of  Representativefl  of 

the  United  States,  in  Congrese  assembled, 
The  petition  of  the  American   Fur  Company  'respectfully 

showeth : 

That  the  trade  with  the  several  Indian  tribes  of 
North  America,  has,  for  many  years  past,  been  almost 
exclusively  carried  on  by  the  merchants  of  Canada ; 
who,  having  formed  powerful  and  extensive  associa- 
tions for  that  purpose,  being  aided  by  British  capital, 
and  being  encouraged  by  the  favor  and  protection 
of  the  British  government,  could  not  be  opposed,  with 
any  prospect  of  success  by  individuals  of  the  United 
States. 

That  by  means  of  the  above  trade,  thus  systemati- 
cally pursued,  not  only  the  inhabitants  of  the  United 
States  have  been  deprived  of  commercial  profits  and 
aih'antages,  to  which  they  appear  to  have  just  and 
natural  pretensions,  but  a  i^reat  and  dangerous  in- 
fluence has  been  established  over  the  Indian  tribes, 
difficult  to  be  counteracted,  and  capable  of  being 
exerted  at  critical  periods,  to  the  great  injury  and 
annoyance  of  our  frontier  settlements. 

That  in  order  to  obtain  at  least  a  part  of  the  above 
trade,  and  more  particularly  that  which  is  within  tb* 
40 


626 


APPENDIX. 


m 


boundaries  of  the  United  States,  yoi  r  petitioners,  in 
the  year  1808,  obtained  an  act  of  incorporation  Croin 
the  State  of  New  York,  whereby  they  are  enabled, 
with  a  competent  capital,  to  carry  on  the  said  trade 
with  the  Indians  in  such  a  manner  as  may  be  con- 
formable to  the  laws  and  regulations  of  the  United 
States,  in  relation  to  such  a  commerce. 

That  the  capital  mentioned  in  the  said  act, 
amounting  to  one  million  of  dollars,  having  been 
duly  formed,  your  petitioners  entered  with  zeal  and 
alacrity  into  those  large  and  important  arrangements, 
which  were  necessary  for,  or  conducive  to  the  object 
of  their  incorporation ;  and,  among  other  things,  pur- 
chased a  great  part  of  the  stock  in  trade,  and  trading 
establishments,  of  the  Michilimackinac  Company  of 
Canada. — Your  petitioners  also,  with  the  expect^- 
ticm  of  great  public  and  private  advantage  from  the 
use  of  the  said  establishments,  ordered,  during  the 
spring  and  summer  of  1810,  an  assortment  of  goods 
fi*om  England,  suitable  lor  the  Indian  trade  ;  which, 
in  consequence  of  the  President's  proclamation  of 
November  of  that  year,  were  shipped  to  Canada 
instead  of  New  York,  and  have  been  transported, 
under  a  very  heavy  expense,  into  the  interior  of  the 
country.  But  as  they  could  not  legally  be  brought 
into  the  Indian  country  within  the  boundaries  of  the 
United  States,  they  have  been  stored  on  the  Island 
of  St.  Joseph,  in  Lake  Huron,  where  they  now 
remain.  ^ 

Your  petitioners,  with  great  deference  and  implicit 
submission  to  the  wisdom  of  the  national  legislature, 
beg  leave  to  suggest  lor  consideration,  whether  they 
have  not  some  claim  to  national  attention  and  en- 
couragement, from  the  nature  and  importance  of 
their  undertaking ;  which  though  hazardous  and  un- 
certain as  it  concerns  their  private  emolument,  must, 


APPENDIX. 


627 


*t  any  rate,  redound  to  the  public  securi.y  and  ad- 
vantage. If  their  undertaking  slmll  appear  to  be  of 
tlie  description  given,  they  would  further  suggest  to 
your  honorable  bodies,  that  unless  they  can  procure 
a  regular  supply  for  the  trade  in  which  they  are 
engaged,  it  may  languish,  and  be  finally  abandoned 
by  American  citizens ;  when  it  will  revert  to  its 
former  channel,  with  additional,  and  perhaps  with 
irresistible,  power. 

Under  these  circumstances,  and  upon  all  those 
considerations  of  public  policy  which  will  present 
themselves  to  your  honorable  bodies,  in  connection 
with  those  already  mentioned,  your  petitioners  re- 
spectfully pray  that  a  law  may  be  passed  to  enable 
the  President,  or  any  of  the  heads  of  departments 
acting  under  his  authority,  to  grant  permits  for  the 
introduction  of  goods  necessary  for  the  supply  of  the 
Indians,  into  the  Indian  country  that  is  within  the 
boundaries  of  the  United  States,  under  such  regula- 
tions, and  with  such  restrictions,  as  may  secure  the 
public  revenue  and  promote  the  public  welfare. 

And  your  petitioners  shall  ever  pray,  &c. 
In  witness  whereof,  the  common  seal  of  the  Amer- 
ican Fur  Company  is  hereunto  affixed,  the 
day  of  March,  1812. 
By  order  of  the  Corporation. 


'ill!; 
I    I 


AlN  act  to  enable  the  American  Fur  Company,  and  other 
citizens,  to  introduce  goods  necessary  for  the  Indian  trade 
into  the  territories  within  the  boundaries  of  the  United 
States. 

WHEREA8,  tbe  public  peace  and  welfare  require 
that  the  native  Indian  tribes,  residing  within  the 
boundaries  of  the  United  States,  should  receive  their 


i!':'i.' 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


I.I 


1.25 


■so 


WUi. 

ill  1.8 


U    11.6 


Photographic 

Sciences 

Coiporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14S80 

(716)  872-4503 


628 


APPENDIX. 


necesflaiy  supplies  under  the  authority-  and  from  the 
citizens  of  the  United  States :  Therefore,  be  it 
enacted  by  the  Senate  and  House  of  Representatives 
of  the  United  States,  in  Congress  assembled,  that  it 
shall  be  lawful  for  the  President  of  the  United  States, 
or  any  of  the  heads  of  departments  thereunto  by 
him  duly  authorized,  from  time  to  time  to  grant  per- 
mits to  the  American  Fur  Company,  their  agents  or 
factors,  or  any  other  citizens  of  the  United  States 
engaged  in  the  Indian  trade,  to  introduce  into  the 
Indian  country,  within  the  boundaries  of  the  United 
States,  such  goods,  wares,  and  merchandise,  as  may 
be  necessary  for  the  said  trade,  under  such  regula- 
tions and  restrictions  as  r,he  said  President  or  heads 
of  departments  may  judge  proper ;  any  law  or  regu- 
lation to  the  contrary,  in  anywise,  notwithstanding.  ^ 


Letter  Jrom  Mr.  Gallatin  to  Mr.  Astor^  dated 

New  York,  August  5, 1835. 

Dear  Sir,  —  In  compliance  with  your  request,  I 
will  state  such  facts  as  I  recollect  touching  the  sub 
jects  mentioned  in  your  letter  of  28th  ult.    I  may  be 
mistaken  respecting  dates  and  details,  and  win  only 
relate  general  facts,  which  I  well  remember. 

In  conformity  with  the  treaty  of  1794  with  Great 
Britain,  the  citizens  and  subjects  of  each  country 
were  permitted  to  trade  with  the  Indians  residing  in 
the  territories  of  the  other  party.  The  recipiwcity 
was  altogether  nominal.  Since  the  conquest  of  Can- 
ada, the  British  had  inherited  from  the  French  the 
whole  fur  trade,  through  tlie  great  lakes  and  their 
communications,  with  all  the  wcLitern  Indians,  whether 
residing  in  the  Britiff^  domuitons  or  the  United  States' 


APPENDIX, 


62« 


rhey  kept  the  important  western  posts  on  those  lakes 
till  about  the  year  1797.  And  the  defensive  Indian 
war,  which  the  United  States  had  to  sustain  from 
1776  to  1795,  had  still  more  alienated  the  Indians, 
and  secured  to  the  British  their  exclusive  trade,  car- 
ried through  the  lakes,  wherever  the  Indians  in  that 
quarter  lived.  No  American  could,  without  immi* 
nent  danger  of  property  and  life,  carry  on  that  trade, 
even  within  the  Unite(P  States,  by  the  way  of  either 
Michillmackinac  or  St.  Mary's.  And  independent  of 
the  loss  of  commerce,  Great  Britain  was  enabled  to 
preserve  a  most  dangerous  influence  over  our  In- 
dians. 

It  was  under  these  circumstances  that  you  commu- 
nicated to  our  goveri:raent  the  prospect  you  had  to 
be  able,  and  your  intention,  to  purchase  one  half  of 
the  interest  of  the  Canadian  Fur  Company,  engaged 
in  'trade  by  the  way  of  MIchilimackinac  with  our 
own  Indians.  You  wished  to  know  whether  the 
plan  met  with  the  approbation  of  government,  and 
how  far  you  could  rely  on  its  protection  and  encour- 
agement. This  overture  was  received  with  great 
satisfaction  by  the  administration,  and  Mr.  Jefferson, 
then  President,  wrote  you  to  that  effbct.  I  was  also 
directed,  as  Secretary  of  the  Treasury,  to  write  to  you 
an  official  letter  to  the  same  purpose.  On  investi- 
gating the  subject,  it  was  found  that  the  Executive 
had  no  authority  to  give  you  any  direct  aid  ;  and  I 
believe  you  received  nothing  more  than  an  entire 
approbation  of  your  plan,  and  general  assurances  of 
the  protection  due  to  every  citizen  engaged  in  lawful 
and  useful  pursuits. 

You  did  effect  the  contemplated  purchase,  but  io 
what  year  I  do  not  recollect.  Immediately  before 
«he  war,  you  represented  that  a  large  quantity  of 
merchandise,  intended  for  the  Indian  trade,  and  in- 


680 


APPENDIX. 


eluding  arrns  and  munitions  of  war,  belonging  to  that 
concern  of  which  you  owned  one  half,  was  deposited 
at  a  post  on  Lake  Huron,  within  the  British  domin- 
ions ;  that,  in  order  to  prevent  their  ultimately  falling 
into  the  hands  of  Indians  who  might  prove  hostilcy 
you  were  desirous  to  try  to  have  them  conveyed  into 
the  United  States ;  but  that  you  were  prevented  by 
the  then  existing  law  of  non-intercourse  with  the 
British  dominions.  • 

The  Executive  could  not  annul  the  provisions  of 
that  law.  But  I  was  directed  to  instruct  the  collec- 
tor on  the  lakes,  in  case  you  and  your  agents  should 
voluntarily  bring  in  and  deliver  to  them  any  part  of 
the  goods  above  mentioned,  to  receive  and  keep  them 
in  their  guard,  and  not  to  commence  prosecutions 
until  further  instructions :  the  intention  being  then  to 
apply  to  Congress  for  an  act  remitting  the  forfeiture 
and  penalties.  I  wrote  accordingly,  to  that  effect,  to 
the  collectors  of  Detroit  and  Michilimackinac. 

The  attempt  to  obtain  the  goods  did  not,  however, 
succeed ;  and  I  cannot  say  how  far  the  failure  injured 
you.  But  the  war  proved  fatal  to  another  muuh 
more  extensive  and  important  enterprise. 

Previous  to  that  time,  but  I  also  forgot  the  year, 
you  had  undertaken  to  carry  on  a  trade  on  your  own 
account,  though  I  believe  under  the  New  York 
charter  of  the  American  Fur  Company,  with  the 
Indians  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  This  project 
was  also  communicated  to  government,  and  met,  of 
course,  with  its  full  approbation,  and  best  wishes,  for 
rour  su'i'cess.  You  carried  it  on,  on  the  most  exten- 
sive scald,  sending  several  ships  to  the  mouth  of  the 
Columbia  River,  and  a  large  party  by  land  across  the 
-mountains,  and  finally  founding  the  establishment  of 
Astoria. 

This  unfortunately  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  enemy 


APPENDIX, 


631 


during  the  war,  from  circumstances  with  which  I  am 
but  imperfectly  acquainted  —  being  then  absent  on 
a  foreign  mission.  1  returned  in  September,  1815, 
and  sailed  again  on  a  mission  to  France  in  June, 
1816.  During  that  period  I  visited  Washington 
twice  —  in  October  or  November,  181.5,  and  in 
March,  1816.  On  one  of  these  occasions,  and  I  be- 
lieve on  the  last,  you  mentioned  to  me  that  you  were 
disposed  once  more  to  renew  the  attempt,  and  to  re- 
establish Astoria,  provided  you  had  the  protection  of 
the  American  flag ;  for  which  purpose,  a  lieutenant's 
command  would  be  sufficient  to  you.  You  requested 
me  to  mention  this  to  the  President,  which  I  did. 
Mr.  Madison  said  he  would  consider  the  subject,  and, 
although  he  did  not  commit  himself,  I  thought  that 
ho  received  the  proposal  favorably.  The  message 
was  verbal,  and  I  do  not  know  whether  the  applif^a- 
tion  was  ever  renewed  in  a  more  formal  manner.  I 
sailed  soon  after  for  Europe,  and  was  seven  years 
absent.  I  never  had  the  pleasure,  since  1816,  to  see 
Mr.  Madison,  and  never  heard  again  any  thing  con- 
cerning the  subject  in  question. 

I  remain,  dear  sir,  most  respectfully, 

Your  obedient  servant, 

ALBERT  G.^LLATIN. 
;  John  Jacob  Astor,  Esq., 

New  York. 


•^ 


Noikes  of  the  Present  State  of  the  Fur  Trade,  chiefly 
extracted  from  an  article  published  in  SUliman'a 
Magazine  for  January^  1834. 

The  Northwest  Company  did  not  long  enjoy  the 
«way  they  had  acquired  over  the  trading  regions  of 


632 


APPENDIX, 


the  Columbia.  A  competition,  ruinous  in  its  expenses, 
which  had  long  existed  between  them  and  the  Hud- 
son's Bay  Company,  ended  in  their  downfall  and  the 
ruin  of  most  of  the  partners.  The  relict  of  the 
company  became  mei^ed  in  the  rival  association,  and 
the  whole  business  was  conducted  under  the  name  <A 
the  Hudson's  Bay  Company.         '-^ 

This  coaliti(Hi  took  place  in  1821.  They  then 
abandoned  Astoria,  and  built  a  lai^e  establishment 
sixty  miles  up  the  river,  on  the  right  bank,  which 
they  called  Fort  Vancouver.  This  was  in  a  neigh- 
borhood where  provisions  could  be  more  readily  pro- 
cured, and  where  there  was  less  danger  from  mo- 
leftation  by  any  naval  force.  The  company  are  said 
to  carry  on  an  active  and  prosperous  trade,  and  to 
give  great  encouragement  to  settlers,  lliey  are  ex- 
tremely jealous,  however,  of  any  interference  or  par»» 
ticipation  in  their  trade,  and  monopolize  it  from  the 
coast  of  the  Pacific  to  the  mountains,  and  iot  a  con- 
siderable extent  north  and  south.  The  American 
traders  and  trs^jpers  who  venture  across  the  moun- 
tains, instead  of  enjoying  the  participation  in  the 
trade  of  the  river  and  its  tributaries,  that  had  been 
stipulated  by  treaty,  are  obliged  to  keep  to  the  south, 
out  of  the  track  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  parties. 

Mr.  Astor  has  withdrawn  entirely  from  the  Amer- 
ican Fur  Company,  as  he  has,  in  fact,  from  active 
business  of  every  kind.  That  company  is  now 
headed  by  Mr.  Ramsay  Crooks ;  its  principal  estab- 
lishment is  at  Michilimackinac,  and  it  receives  its 
furs  from  l^e  posts  depending  on  that  station,  and 
irom  those  on  the  Mississippi,  Missouri,  and  Yellow 
Stone  Rivers,  and  the  great  range  of  country  extend- 
ing thonce  to  the  Rocky  Mountains.  This  company 
has  stesmiboats  in  its  employ,  with  which  it  ascends 
the  rivoi'S,  and  penetrates  to  a  vast  distance  into  tho 


APPENDIX. 


633 


bosom  of  those  regions  formerly  so  painfully  explorec? 
in  keel  boats  and  barges,  or  by  weary  parties  on 
horseback  and  on  foot  The  first  irruption  of  steam- 
boats into  the  heart  of  these  vast  wildemeraes  is  said 
to  have  caused  the  utmost  astonishment  and  affrigbt 
among  their  savage  inhabitants. 

In  addition  to  the  main  companies  already  men- 
tioned, minor  associations  have  been  formed,  which 
push  their  way  in  the  most  intrepid  manner  to  the 
remote  parts  of  the  far  West,  and  beyond  the  moun- 
tain barriers.  One  of  the  most  noted  of  these  is 
Ashley's  company,  fi^rn  St.  Louis,  who  trap  for  them- 
selves, and  drive  an  extensive  trade  with  the  Indians. 
The  spirit,  enterprise,  and  hardihood  of  Ashley,  are 
themes  of  the  highest  eulc^  in  the  far  West,  and  his 
adventures  and  exploits  furnish  abundance  of  frontier 

Another  company  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  persons 
from  New  York,  formed  in  1831,  and  headed  by 
Captain  Bonneville  of  the  United  States  army,  has 
pushed  its  enterprise  into  tracts  before  but  little 
known,  and  has  brought  considerable  quantities  of 
furs  from  the  region  between  the  Rocky  Mountains 
and  the  coasts  of  Monterey  and  Upper  California,  on 
the  Buenaventura  and  Timpanc^os  rivers. 

The  fur  countries,  from  the  Pacific,  east  to  the 
Bocky  Mountains,  are  now  occupied  (exclusive  of  pri- 
vate combinatbns  and  individual  trappers  and  traders) 
by  the  Russians ;  and  on  the  northwest  from  Behring's 
Strait  to  Queen  Charlotte's  Island,  in  north  latitude 
fifly-three  degrees,  and  by  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company 
thence,  south  of  the  Columbia  River ;  while  Ashley's 
tompany,  and  that  under  Captain  Bonneville,  take 
the  remainder  of  the  region  to  California.  Indeed, 
the  whole  compass  from  the  Mississippi  to  the  Pacific 
Ocean  is  traversed  in  every  direction      The  moun- 


684 


APPENDIX, 


tains  and  forests,  from  the  Arctic  Sea  to  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico,  are  threaded,  through  every  maze,  by  the 
hunter.  Every  river  and  tributary  stream,  from  the 
Columbia  to  the  mouth  of  the  Rio  del  Nor^e,  and 
from  the  M'Kenzie  to  the  Colorado  of  the  West,  from 
their  head  springs  to  their  junction,  are  searched 
and  trapped  for  beaver.  Almost  all  the  American 
fiirs,  which  do  not  belong  to  the  Hudson's  Bay  Com- 
pany, find  their  way  to  New  York,  and  are  either 
distributed  thence  for  home  consumption,  or  sent  to 
foreign  markets. 

The  Hudson's  Bay  Company  ship  their  furs  from 
their  factories  of  York  Fort  and  from  Moose  River, 
on  Hudson's  Bay ;  their  collection  frum  Grand  River, 
&c.,  they  ship  from  Canada ;  and  the  collection  from 
Columbia  goes  to  London.  None  of  their  furs  coma 
to  the  United  States,  except  through  the  London 
market. 

The  export  trade  of  furs  from  the  United  States 
is  chiefly  to  London.  Some  quantities  have  been 
sent  to  Canton,  and  some  few  to  Hamburgh  ;  and  an 
increasing  export  trade  in  beaver,  otter,  i.utria,  and 
vicunia  wool,  prepared  for  the  hatter's  use,  is  carried 
on  in  Mexico.  Some  furs  are  exported  from  Balti- 
more, Philadelphia,  and  Boston ;  but  the  principal 
shipments  from  the  United  States  a.'e  from  New  York 
to  London,  from  whence  they  are  sent  to  Leipsic,  a 
well-known  mart  for  furs,  where  they  are  disposed  of 
during  the  great  fair  in  that  city,  and  distributed  to 
every  part  of  the  continent. 

The  United  States  import  from  South  America, 
nusria,  vicunia,  chinchilla,  and  a  few  deer-skins ;  also 
fu .'  seals  from  the  Lobos  Islands,  off  the  river  Plate. 
L  quantity  of  beaver,  otter,  &c.,  are  brought  annu- 
ally from  Santa  Fe.  Dressed  furs  for  edgings,  lin- 
ings, caps,  muffs,  &).,  such  as  squirrel,  genet,  fitch 


11 


APPENDIX. 


635 


•kins,  and  blue  rabbit,  are  received  from  the  north 
of  Europe ;  also  cony  and  hare's  fur ;  but  the 
iai'geat  importations  are  from  London,  where  is  con- 
centrated nearly  the  whole  of  the  North  Amer- 
ican fur  trade. 

Such  is  the  present  state  of  the  fur  trade,  by  which 
it  will  appear  that  the  extended  sway  of  the  Hud- 
son's Bay  Company,  and  its  monopoly  of  the  region 
of  which  Astoria  was  the  key,  has  operated  to  turn 
the  main  current  of  this  opulent  trade  into  the 
coffers  of  Great  Britain,  and  to  render  London  the 
emporium  instead  of  New  York,  as  Mr.  Astor  had 
intended. 

We  will  subjoin  a  few  observations  on  the  animals 
sought  after  in  this  traffic,  extracted  from  the  same 
intelligent  source  with  the  preceding  remarks. 

Of  the  fur-hearing  animals^  "  the  precious  ermine," 
so  called  by  way  of  preeminence,  is  found,  of  the 
best  quality,  only  in  the  cold  regions  5f  Europe  and 
Asia.^  Its  fur  is  of  the  most  perfect  whiteness,  ex- 
cept the  tip  of  its  tail,  which  is  of  a  brilliant  shining 
black.  With  these  black  tips  tacked  on  the  skins, 
they  are  beautifully  spotted,  producing  an  effect 
often  imitated,  but  never  equalled  in  other  furs. 
The  ermine  is  of  the  genus  mustela  (weasel),  and 
resembles  the  common  weasel  in  its  form ;  is  from 
fourteen  to  sixteen  inches  from  the  tip  of  the  nose 
to  the  end  of  the  tail.  The  body  is  from  ten  to 
twelve  inches  long.  It  lives  in  hollow  trees,  river 
banks,  and  especially  ia  beech  forests ;  preys  on 
small  birds,  is  very  shy,  sleeping  during  the  day,  and 
employing  the  night  in  t  earch  of  food.  The  fur  of 
the  older  animals  is  preferred  to  the  younger.     It  is 

1  An  animal  called  the  stoat  a  kind  of  ermine,  is  said  to  bo 
tound  in  North  America,  but  very  inferior  to  the  Europ««n 
tnd  Asiatic. 


636 


APPENDIX, 


taken  by  snares  and  traps,  and  sometimts  shot  with 
blunt  arrows.  Attempts  have  been  made  to  domes- 
ticate it;  but  it  is  extremely  wild,  and  bas  been 
found  untameable. 

The  sable  can  scarcely  be  called  second  to  the 
ermine.  It  is  a  native  of  Northern  Europe  and 
Siberia,  and  is  also  of  the  genus  mustela.  In 
Saraoieda,  Yakutsk,  Kamtsehatka,  and  Russian  Lap 
land,  it  is  found  of  the  richest  quality,  and  darkest 
color.  In  its  habits,  it  resembles  the  ermine.  It 
preys  on  small  squirrels  and  birds,  sleeps  by  day, 
and  prowls  for  food  during  the  night.  It  is  so  like 
the  marten  in  every  particular  except  its  size,  and 
the  dark  shade  of  its  color,  that  naturalists  have 
not  decided  whether  it  is  the  richest  and  finest  of 
the  marten  tribe,  or  a  variety  of  that  species.^  It 
varies  in  dimensions  from  eighteen  to  twenty  inches. 

The  rich  dark  shades  of  the  sable,  and  the  snowy 
whiteness  of  the  ermine,  the  great  depth,  and  the 
peculiar,  almost  flowing  soilness  of  their  skins  and 
fur,  have  combined  to  gain  them  a  preference  in  all 
countries,  and  in  all  ages  of  the  world.  In  this  age, 
they  maintain  the  same  relative  estimate  in  regard 
to  other  furs,  as  when  they  marked  the  rank  of  the 
proud  crusader,  and  were  emblazoned  in  heraldry : 
but  in  most  European  nations,  they  are  now  worn 
promiscuously  by  the  opulent. 

The  martens  from  Northern  Asia  and  the  Moun- 
tains of  Kamtsehatka  are  much  superior  to  the  Amer- 
ican, though  in  every  pack  of  American  marten 
skins  there  are  a  certain  number  which  are  beauti- 

1  Tbe  finest  fur  and  the  darkest  color  are  most  esteemed; 
and  whether  the  difference  arises  from  the  age  of  the  animal, 
or  from  some  peculiarity  of  location,  is  not  known.  Tbey  do 
not  varv  more  from  the  common  marten  than  the  Arabiao 
horse  from  the  shaggy  Canadian. 


M 


APPENDIX, 


687 


taWy  thffded,  and  of  a  dark  bro'virn  olivo  color,  of 
great  depth  and  richness.  ^ 

Next  these  in  value,  for  ornament  and  utility,  ar« 
the  sea-otter,  the  mink,  and  the  fiery  fox. 

Tlic  fiery  fox  is  the  bright  red  of  Asia ;  is  more 
brilliantly  colored  and  of  finer  fur  than  any  other 
of  the  genus.  It  is  highly  valued  for  the  splendor  of 
its  red  color  and  the  fineness  of  its  fur.  It  is  tho 
standard  of  value  on  the  northeastern  coast  of  Asia. 

The  sea-otter,  wliich  was  first  introduced  into 
commerce  in  1725,  fi*om  the  Aleutian  and  Kurile 
Islands,  is  an  exceedingly  fine,  soft,  close  fur,  jet 
black  in  winter,  with  a  silken  gloss.  The  fur  of  the 
foung  anim.1  is  of  a  beautiful  brown  color.  It  is 
met  wifh  in  great  abundance  in  Behring's  Island, 
Kamtschatka,  Aleutian  and  Fox  Islands,  and  is  also 
taken  on  the  opposite  coasts  of  North  America.  It 
is  sometimes  taken  with  nets,  but  more  frequently 
with  clubs  and  spears.  Their  food  is  principally 
lobster  and  other  shell-fish. 

In  1 780  furs  had  become  so  scarce  in  Siberia,  that 
the  supply  was  insufficient  for  the  demand  in  the 
Asiatic  countries.  It  was  at  this  time  that  the  sea- 
otter  was  introduced  into  the  markets  for  China. 
The  skins  brought  such  incredible  prices,  as  to 
originate  immediately  several  American  and  British 
expeditions  to  the  northern  islands  of  the  Pacific,  to 
Nootka  Sound,  and  the  northwest  coast  of  America ; , 
but  the  Russians  already  had  possession  of  the  tract 
wldch  they  now  hold,  and  had  arranged  a  trade  for 
the  sea-otter  with  the  Koudek  tribes.  They  do  not 
engross  the  trade,  however ;  the  American  northwest 
trading  ships  procure  them,  all  along  the  coast,  from 
the  Indians. 

At  one  perlxl,  the  fur  seals  formed  no  inconsider- 
able item  in  the  trade.     South  Georgia,  in  south 


638 


APPENDIX, 


biitude  fifly-five  degrees,  discovered  in  1675, 
explored  by  Captain  Cook  in  1771.  The  Americans 
immediately  commenced  carrying  seal  skins  thonce 
to  China,  where  thuy  obtained  the  most  exorbitant 
prices.  One  million  two  hundred  thousand  skins 
have  been  taken  from  that  island  alone,  and  nearly 
an  e(;[ual  number  from  the  Island  of  Desolation,  since 
they  were  first  resorted  to  for  the  purpose  of  com- 
mercq^i 

The  discovery  of  the  South  Shetlands,  sixty-threo 
degrees  south  latitude,  in  1818,  added  surprisingly  to 
the  trade  in  fur  seals.  The  number  taken  from  the 
South  Shetlands  in  1821  and  1822  amounted  to  three 
hundred  and  twenty  thousand.  This  valuable  animal 
is  now  almost  extinct  in  all  these  islands,  owing  to 
the  exterminating  system  adopted  by  the  hunters. 
They  are  still  taken  on  the  Lobos  Islands,  where  the 
provident  government  of  Montevideo  restrict  the 
fishery,  or  hunting,  within  certain  limits,  which  in- 
sures an  annual  return  of  the  seals.  At  certain 
seasons,  these  amphibia,  for  the  purpose  of  renewing 
their  coat,  come  up  on  the  dark  frowning  rocks  and 
precipices,  where  there  is  not  a  trace  of  vegetation. 
In  the  middle  of  January,  the  islands  are  partially 
cleared  of  snow,  where  a  few  patches  of  short  strag- 
gling grass  spring  up  in  favorable  situations ;  but  the 
seals  do  not  resort  to  it  for  food.  They  remain  on 
the  rocks  not  less  than  two  months,  without  any 
sustenance,  when  they  return  much  emaciated  to  the 
9ea. 

Bears  of  various  species  and  colors,  many  varieties 
oi  the  fox,  the  wolf,  lie  beaver,  the  otter,  the  marten, 
I  he  raccoon,  the  badger,  tlie  wolverine,  the  mink,  the 
lynx,  the-  muskrat,  tho  woodchuck,  the  rabbit,  the 
hare,  and  the  squirrel,  are  natives  of  North  Amer 
'ca. 


APPENDIX. 


639 


675,  WM 
juericans 
IS  thonce 
xorbitant 
kod  skins 
id  nearly 
:ion,  since 
I  of  com- 

ixty-threo 
■isingly  to 
from  the 
1  to  three 
>le  animal 
owing  to 
hunters, 
ivhere  the 
strict   the 
v^hich  in- 
.t  certain 
renewing 
'ocks  and 
igetation. 
partially 
jrt  strag- 
;  but  the 
main  on 
LOut  any 
led  to  the 

I  varieties 
marten, 
link,  the 

[bbit,  the 
Amer 


Tlie  beaver,  otter,  lynx,  fisher,  hare,  and  raccoon, 
ftro  used  principally  for  hats ;  while  the  bears  of  sev- 
eral varieties  furnish  an  excellent  material  for  sleigh 
linings,  for  cavalry  caps,  and  other  military  equip- 
ments. The  fur  of  the  black  fox  is  the  most  valu- 
able of  any  of  the  American  varieties;  and  next 
to  that  the  red,  w7\ich  is  cxpoited  to  China  and 
Smyrna.  In  China,  the  red  is  employed  for  ti-im- 
mings,  linings,  and  robes ;  the  latter  being  variegated 
by  adding  the  black  fur  of  the  paws,  in  spots  or 
waves.  There  are  many  other  varieties  of  American 
fox,  such  as  the  gray,  the  white,  the  cross,  the  silver, 
and  the  dun-colored.  The  silver  fox  is  a  rare  ani- 
mal, a  native  of  the  woody  country  below  the  fails 
of  the  Columbia  River.  It  has  a  long,  tliick,  deep 
lead-colored  fur,  intermingled  with  long  hairs,  inva- 
riably white  at  the  top,  forming  a  bright  lustrous 
silver  gray,  esteemed  by  some  more  beautiful  than 
any  other  kind  of  fox.    \«r 

The  skins  of  the  buffalo,  of  the  Rocky  Mountain 
sheep,  of  various  deer,  and  of  the  antelope,  are  in- 
cluded in  the  fur  trade  with  the  Indians  and  trap 
pers  of  the  north  and  west. 

Fox  and  seal  skins  are  sent  from  Greenland  to 
Denmark.  The  white  fur  of  the  arctic  fox  and  polar 
bear  is  sometimes  found  in  the  packs  brought  to  the 
traders  by  the  most  northern  tribes  of  Indians,  but 
is  not  par^^i.cularly  valuable.  The  silver-tipped 
rabbit  is  peculiar  to  En^^iand,  and  is  sent  thence  to 
Russia  and  China. 

Other  furs  are  employed  and  valued  according  to 
the  caprices  of  fashion,  as  well  in  those  countries 
where  they  are  needed  for  defenses  against  the 
severity  of  the  seasons,  as  among  the  inhabitants  of 
milder  climates,  who,  being  of  Tartar  or  Selavonian 
descent,  are  »ud  to  inherit  an  attachment  to  furred 


640 


APPENDIX, 


clothing.  Such  are  the  inhabitar  ts  of  Poland,  of 
Southern  Russia,  of  China,  of  Perbia,  of  Turkey,  and 
all  the  nations  of  Gothic  origin  in  the  middle  and 
western  parts  of  Europe.  Under  the  burning  suns 
of  Syria  and  Egypt,  and  the  mild  climes  of  Bucharia 
and  Independent  Tartary,  there  is  also  a  constant 
demand,  and  a  great  consumption,  where  there  exists 
no  physical  necessity.  In  our  own  temperate  lati- 
tudes, besides  their  use  in  the  arts,  they  are  in  re- 
quest for  ornament  and  warmth  during  the  winter, 
and  large  quantities  are  annually  consumed  for  both 
purposes  in  the  United  States. 

From  the  foregoing  statements,  it  appears  that 
the  fur  trade  must  henceforward  decline.  The  ad- 
vanced state  of  geographical  science  shows  that  no 
new  countries  remain  to  be  explored.  Jin  North 
America  the  animals  are  slowly  decreasing,  from  the 
persevering  efforts  and  the  indiscriminate  slaughter 
practised  by  the  hunters,  and  by  the  appropriation 
to  the  uses  of  man  of  those  forests  and  rivers  which 
have  afforded  them  food  and  protection.  They 
recede  with  the  aborigines,  before  the  ♦'de  of  civili- 
zation ;  but  a  diminished  supply  will  remain  in  the 
mountains  and  uncultivated  tracts  of  thi^;  and  other 
countries,  if  the  avidity  of  the  hunter  can  be  re- 
strained within  proper  limitations. 


Hetght  of  the  Rocky  Mountains, 

V/^Rious  estimates  have  been  made  of  the  height 
of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  but  it  is  doubtful  whether 
any  have,  as  yet,  done  justice  to  their  real  altitude, 
which  promises  to  place  them  only  second  to  the 
highest   nK  untains   of    the   known    world.      Their 


APPENDIX, 


64] 


height  has  been  diminished  to  the  eye  by  the  great 
elevation  of  the  plains  from  which  they  rise.  They 
consist,  according  to  Long,  of  ridges,  knobs,  and 
peaks,  variously  disposed.  The  more  elevated  parts 
are  covered  with  perpetual  snows,  which  contribute 
to  give  them  a  luminous,  and,  at  a  great  distance, 
even  a  brilliant  appearance ;  whence  they  derived, 
among  some  of  the  first  discoverers,  the  name  of 
the  Shining  Mountains. 

James's  Peak  has  generally  been  cited  as  the 
highest  of  the  chain ;  and  its  elevation  above  the 
common  level  has  been  ascertained,  by  a  trigonomet- 
rical measurement,  to  be  about  eight  thousand  five 
hundred  feet.  Mr.  Long,  however,  judged,  from  the 
position  of  the  snow  near  the  summits  of  other  peaks 
and  ridges  at  no  great  distance  from  it,  that  they 
were  much  higher.  Having  heard  Professor  Ren- 
wick,  of  New  York,  express  an  opinion  of  the  alti- 
tude of  these  mountains  far  beyond  what  had  usually 
been  ascribed  to  them,  we  applied  to  him  for  the 
authority  on  which  he  groimded  his  observation,  and 
here  subjoin  his  reply :  — 

Columbia  College,  New  York,  Fdtruary  23, 1836. 

Dear  Sir,  —  In  compliance  with  your  request,  I 
have  to  communicate  some  facts  in  relation  to  the 
heights  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  the  sources 
whence  I  obtained  the  information. 

In  conversation  with  Simon  M'GilHvray,  Esq.,  a 
partner  of  the  Northwest  Company,  he  stated  to  me 
his  impression,  that  the  mountains  in  the  vicinity  of 
the  route  pursued  by  the  traders  of  that  company 
were  nearly  as  high  as  the  Himalayas.  He  had 
himself  crossed  by  this  route,  seen  the  snowy  sum- 
mits of  the  peaks,  and  experienced  a  degree  of  cold 
which  required  a  spirit  thermometer  to  indicate  \t 
41 


642 


APPENDIX, 


His  anthority  for  the  estimate  of  the  heights 
a  gentleman  who  had  been  employed  for  several 
years  as  surveyor  of  that  company.  This  converaar 
tion  occurred  about  sixteen  years  since. 

A  year  or  two  afterwards,  I  had  the  pleasure  of 
dining,  at  Major  Delafield's,  with  Mr.  Thompson,  the 
gentleman  referred  to  by  Mr.  M'GilHvray.  I  in- 
quired of  him  in  relation  to  the  circumstances  men* 
tioned  by  Mr.  .M'Gillivray,  and  he  stated,  that,  by 
the  joint  means  of  the  barometric .  and  trigonometric 
measurement,  he  had  ascertained  the  height  of  one 
of  the  peaks  to  be  about  twenty-five  thousand  feet, 
and  there  were  others  of  nearly  the  same  height  in 
the  vicinity. 

I  am,  dear  sir, 

Yours  truly, 

JAMES  BENWIGK. 
To  W.  Ibvino,  Esq. 


Suggestions  with  rc&pect  to  the  Indian  tribes^  and  At 
jrrMection  of  our  Trade, 

In  the  cour«G  of  this  work,  a  few  general  remarks 
have  been  hazarded  respecting  the  Indian  tribes  of 
the  prairies,  and  the  dangers  to  be  apprehended  from 
them  in  future  times  to  our  trade  beyond  the  Bocky 
JSfountains  and  witn  the  Spanish  frontiers.  Since 
writing  those  remarks,  we  have  met  with  some 
excellent  observations  and  suggestions,  in  manuscript, 
on  the  same  subiect,  written  by  Captain  Bonneville, 
of  the  United  St<it,e8  army,  who  has  lately  returned 
from  a  long  residence  among  the  tribes  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains.  Captain  B.  approves  highly  of  the  plan 
recentlv  adopted  by  the   United  States  governmeni 


APPENDIX. 


643 


convenap 


for  the  oi^anization  of  a  regiment  of  dragoons  for 
the  protection  of  our  western  frontier,  and  the  trade 
across  the  prairies.  *'  No  other  species  of  military 
force,*'  he  observes,  '^  is  at  all  competent  to  cope 
with  these  restless  and  wandering  hordes,  who  re< 
quire  to  be  opposed  with  swiftness  quite  as  much  as 
with  strength;  and  the  consciousness  that  a  troop, 
uniting  these  qualifications,  is  always  on  the  alert  to 
avenge  their  outrages  upon  the  settlers  and  traders, 
will  go  very  far  towards  restraining  them  from  the 
perpetration  of  those  thefts  and  murders  which  they 
have  heretofore  committed  with  impunity,  whenever 
stratagem  or  superiority  of  force  has  given  them  the 
advantage.  Their  interest  already  has  done  some- 
thing towards  their  pacification  with  our  coun- 
trymen. From  the  traders  among  them,  they  receive 
their  supplies  in  the  greatest  abundance,  and  upon 
very  equitable  terms ;  and  when  it  is  remembered 
that  a  very  considerable  amount  of  property  is  year- 
ly distributed  among  them  by  the  government,  as 
presents,  it  will  readily  be  perceived  that  they  are 
giosatly  dependent  upon  us  for  their  most  valued 
resources.  If,  superadded  to  this  imlucement,  a  fre- 
quent display  of  military  power  be  made  in  their 
territories,  there  can  be  little  doubt  that  the  desired 
security  and  peace  will  be  speedily  afibrded  to  our 
own  people.  But  the  idea  of  establishing  a  perma- 
nent amity  and  concord  amongst  the  various  east  and 
west  tribes  themselves,  seems  to  me,  if  not  wholly 
impracticable,  at  least  infinitely  more  difficult  than 
many  excellent  philanthropists  have  hoped  and  be- 
lieved. Those  nations  which  have  so  lately  emi- 
grated from  the  midst  of  orr  settlements  to  live  upon 
our  western  borders,  and  have  made  some  progress 
in  agriculture  and  the  arts  of  civilization,  have,  in 
the  property  they  have  acquired,  and  the  protectioD 


644 


APPENDIX. 


and  aid  exteuded  to  them,  too  many  advantages  to 
be  induced  readily  to  take  up  arms  against  us,  par< 
ticularly  it  they  can  be  brought  to  the  full  conviction 
that  their  new  homes  v  ill  be  permanent  and  undis- 
turbed; and  there  i"  every  reason  and  motive,  in 
policy  as  well  as  humanity,  for  our  ameliorating  their 
condition  by  every  means  in  our  power.     But  the 
case  is  far  different  with  regard  to  the  Osages,  the 
Kanzas,  the  Pawnees,  and  other  roving  hordes  beyond 
the  frontiers  of  the  settlements.     Wild  and  restless 
in  their  character  and  habits,  they  are  by  no  means 
BO   susceptible  of  control  or  civilization ;    and  they 
are  urged  by  strong,  and,  to  them,  irresistible  causes 
in  their  situation  and  necessities,  to  the  daily  perpe- 
tration  of    violence   and   fraud.     Their   permanent 
subsistence,    for    example,    is    derived     from    the 
buffalo  hunting  grounds,  which  He  a  great  distance 
from  their  towns.     Twice  a  year  they  are  obliged  to 
make  long  and  dangerous  expeditions,  to  procure  the 
necessary  provisions  for  themselves  and  their  families. 
For  this  purpose  horses  are  absolutely  requisite,  for 
their   own  comfort   and  safety,  as   well  as  for  the 
transportation  of  their  food,  and  their  little  stock  of 
valuables ;  and  without  them  they  would  be  reduced, 
during  a  great  portion  of  the  year,  to  a  state  of  ab- 
ject misery  and   privation.     They  have   no  brood 
mares,  nor  any  trade  sufficiently  valuable  to  supply 
their  yearly  losses,  and  endeavor  to  keep  up  their 
stock  by  stealing  horses  from  the  other  tribes  to  the 
west  and  southwest.     Our  own  people,  and  the  tribes 
immediately  upon  our  borders,  may  indeed  be  protected 
from   their  depredations;   and  the  Kanzas,  Osages, 
Pawnees,  and   others,    may   be   induced   to  remain 
at  peace  among  themselves,  so  long  as  they  are  per- 
mitted to  pursue  the  old  custom  of  levying  upon  the 
Camanches  and  other  remote  nations  for  their  com- 


APPENDIX, 


645 


to 


plement  of  steeds  for  the  warriors,  and  pack-horses 
for  their  transportations  to  and  from  the  hunting 
ground.  But  the  instant  they  are  forced  to  maintain 
a  peaceful  and  inofTensive  demeanor  t.owards  the 
tribes  along  the  Mexican  border,  and  find  that  every 
violation  of  their  rights  is  followed  by  the  avenging 
arm  of  our  government,  the  result  must  be,  that,  re- 
duced to  a  wretchedness  and  want  which  they  can 
ill  brook,  and  feeling  the  certainty  of  punishment  for 
every  attempt  to  ameliorate  their  condition  in  the 
only  way  they  as  yet  comprehend,  they  will  abandon 
their  unfruitful  territory  and  remove  to  the  neigh- 
borhood of  the  Mexican  lands,  and  there  carry  on  a 
vigorous  predatory  warfare  indiscriminately  upon  the 
Mexicans  and  our  own  people  trading  or  travelling 
in  that  quarter. 

**  The  Indians  of  the  prairies  are  almost  innumer- 
able. Their  superior  horsemanship,  which,  in  my 
opinion,  far  exceeds  that  of  any  other  people  on  the 
face  of  the  earth,  their  daring  bravery,  their  cun- 
ning and  skill  in  the  warfare  of  the  wilderness,  and 
the  astonishing  rapidity  and  secrecy  with  which  they 
are  accustomed  to  move  in  their  martial  expeditions, 
will  always  render  them  most  dangerous  and  vexa- 
tious neighbors,  when  their  necessities  or  their  dis- 
contents may  drive  them  to  hostility  with  our  fron- 
tiers. Their  mode  and  principles  of  warfare  will 
always  protect  them  from  final  and  irretrievable  de- 
feat, and  secure  their  families  from  participating  in 
any  blow  however  severe,  which  our  retribution 
might  deal  out  to  them. 

"  The  Camanches  lay  the  Mexicans  under  contri- 
bution for  horses  and  mules,  which  they  are  always 
eng£^ed  in  stealing  from  them  in  incredible  numbers ; 
ftnd  from  the  Camanches,  all  the  roving  tribes  of  the 
far  West,  by  a  similar  exertion  of  skill  and  daring, 


646 


APPENDIX. 


lupply  themselves  in  turn.  It  seems  to  me,  there- 
forei  under  all  these  circumstances,  that  the  apparent 
futility  of  any  philanthropic  schemes  for  the  benefit 
of  these  nations,  and  a  regard  for  our  own  protection, 
concur  in  recommending  that  we  remain  satisfied 
with  maintaining  peace  upon  our  own  immediate 
borders,  and  leave  the  Mexicans  and  the  Camanches, 
and  all  the  tribes  hostile  to  these  last,  to  settle  their 
differences  and  difficulties  in  their  own  way. 

"  In  order  \o  give  full  security  and  protection  to 
our  trading  parties  circulating  in  all  directions 
through  the  great  prairies,  I  am  under  the  impression^ 
that  a  few  judicious  measures  on  the  part  of  the 
government,  inv(^ving  a  very  limited  expense,  would 
be  sufficient.  And,  in  attaining  this  end,  which  of 
itself  has  already  become  an  object  of  public  inter- 
est and  import,  another,  of  much  greater  consequence, 
might  be  brought  about,  namely,  the  securing  to  the 
States  a  most  valuable  and  increasing  trade,  now 
carried  on  by  caravans  directly  to  Santa  F^. 

"  As  to  th<e  first  desideratum :  the  Indians  catt 
only  be  made  to  respect  the  lives  and  property  of 
the  American  parties,  by  rendering  them  dependent 
upon  us  for  their  supplies ;  which  can  alone  be  done 
with  complete  effect  by  the  establishment  of  a  trad- 
ing post,  with  resident  traders,  at  some  point  which 
will  unite  a  sufficient  number  of  advantages  to  at- 
tract the  several  tribes  to  itself,  in  preference  to 
their  present  places  of  resort  for  that  purpose ;  for  it 
is  a  well-known  fact^  that  the  Indians  will  always 
protect  their  trader,  and  those  in  whom  he  is  inters 
ested,  so  Icwig  as  they  derive  benefits  firom  him.  The 
alternative  presented  to  those  at  the  north,  by  the 
residence  of  the  agents  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Com- 
pany amongst  them,  renders  the  condition  of  our 
|ieople  in  that  quarter  less  secure ;  but  I  think  it 


APPENDIX. 


647 


will  appear  at  once,  upon  the  moat  cursory  examina- 
tion, that  no  such  opposition  further  south  could  be 
maintained,  so  as  to  weaken  the  benefits  of  such  an 
establishment  as  is  here  suggested^ 

"  In  considering  this  matter,  the  first  question 
which  presents  itself  Is,  where  do  these  tribes  now 
make  their  exchanges,  and  obtain  their  necessary 
supplies.  They  resort  almost  exclusively  to  the 
Mexicans,  who,  themselves,  purchase  fh>m  U6  what- 
ever  the  Indians  most  seek  for.  In  this  point  of 
view,  therefore,  casteris  paribus^  it  would  be  an  easy 
matter  for  us  to  monopolize  the  whole  traffic.  All 
that  is  wanting  is  some  location  more  convenient  for 
the  natives  than  that  offered  by  the  Mexicans,  to 
give  us  the  undisputad  superiority;  and  the  se- 
lection of  such  a  point  requires  but  a  knowledge 
of  the  single  fact,  that  these  nations  invariably  win- 
ter  upon  the  head  waters  of  the  Arkansas,  and  there 
prepare  all  their  buffalo  robes  for  trade.  These  robes 
are  heavy,  and,  to  the  Indian,  very  difficult  of  trans- 
portation. Nothing  but  necessity  induces  them  to 
travel  any  great  distance  with  such  inconvenient 
baggage.  A  post,  therefore,  established  upon  the 
head  waters  of  the  Arkansas,  must  infallibly  secure 
an  uncontested  preference  over  that  of  the  Mexicans ; 
even  at  their  prices  and  rates  of  barter.  Then  let 
the  dragoons  occasionally  move  about  among  these 
people  in  lai^e  parties,  impressing  them  with  the 
proper  estimate  of  our  power  to  protect  smd  to  pun* 
ish,  and  at  once  we  have  complete  and  assured  se- 
curity for  all  citizens  whose  enterprise  may  lead  them 
beyond  the  border,  and  an  end  to  the  outrages  and 
depredations  which  now  dog  the  footsteps  of  the 
traveller,  in  the  prairies,  and  arrest  and  depress  the 
most  advanta^ous  commerce.  Such  a  post  need  not 
be  8<»ronger  than  fitly  men ;  twenty-five  to  be  employed 


648 


APPENDIX, 


aa  hunters,  to  supply  the  garrison,  and  the  residue  as  a 
defense  against  any  hostility.  Situated  here  upon 
the  good  lands  of  the  Arkansas,  in  the  midst  of 
abundance  of  timber,  while  it  might  be  kept  up 
at  a  most  inconsiderable  expense,  such  an  estab- 
lishment within  ninety  miles  of  Santa  F^  or  Taos 
would  be  more  than  justified  by  the  other  and  more 
important  advantages  before  alluded  to,  leaving  the 
protection  of  the  traders  with  the  Indian  tribes 
entirely  out  of  the  question. 

"  This  great  trade,  carried  on  by  caravans  to 
Santa  F^,  annually  loads  one  hundred  wagons  with 
merchandise,  which  is  bartered  in  the  northern  prov« 
inces  or  Mexico  for  cash  and  for  beaver  furs.  The 
numerous  articles  excluded  as  contraband,  and  the 
exorbitant  duties  laid  upon  all  those  that  are  ad- 
mitted by  the  Mexican  government,  present  so  many 
obstacles  to  commerce,  that  I  am  well  persuaded, 
that  if  a  post,  such  as  is  here  suggested,  should  be 
established  on  the  Arkansas,  it  would  become  the 
place  of  deposit,  not  only  for  the  present  trade,  but 
for  one  infinitely  more  extended.  Here  the  Mexi- 
cans might  purchase  their  supplies,  and  might  well 
afford  to  sell  them  at  prices  which  would  silence  all 
competition  from  any  other  quarter. 

"  These  two  trades,  with  the  Mexicans  and  the 
Indians,  centring  at  this  post,  would  give  rise  to  a 
large  village  of  traders  and  laborers,  and  would  un- 
doubtedly be  hailed,  by  all  that  section  of  country, 
as  a  permanent  and  invaluable  advantage.  A  few 
pack-horses  would  carry  all  the  clothing  and  ammu-* 
nition  necessary  for  the  post  during  the  first  year, 
and  two  light  field-pieces  would  be  all  the  artillery 
required  for  its  defense.  Afterwards,  all  the  horses 
required  for  the  use  of  the  establishment  might  be 
purchased  fi*om  the  Mexicans  at  the  low  price  of  ten 


APPENDIX, 


649 


dollars  each';  and,  at  the  eame  time,  wjatever  ani- 
mals might  be  needed  to  supply  the  losses  among 
the  dragoons  travel  sing  the  neighborhood,  could  be 
readily  procured.  The  Upper  Missouri  Indians  can 
furnish  horses,  at  very  cheap  rates,  to  any  number 
of  the  same  troops  who  might  be  detailed  for  the 
defense  of  the  northern  frontier ;  and,  in  other 
respects,  a  very  limited  outlay  of  money  would  suffice 
to  maintain  a  post  in  that  section  of  the  country. 

"  From  these  considerations,  and  my  own  personal 
observation,  I  am,  therefore,  disposed  to  believe,  that 
two  posts  established  by  the  government,  one  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Yellowstone  River,  and  one  on  the 
Arkansas,  would  completely  protect  all  our  people  in 
every  section  of  the  great  wilderness  of  the  West ; 
while  other  advantages,  at  least  with  regard  to  one 
of  them,  confirm  and  urge  the  suggestion.  A  fort 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Yellowstone,  garrisoned  by  fifty 
men,  would  be  perfectly  safe.  The  establishment 
might  be  constructed  simply  with  a  view  to  the 
stores,  stables  for  the  dragoons'  horses,  and  quarters 
for  the  regular  garrison ;  the  rest  being  provided 
with  sheds  or  lodges,  erected  in  the  vicinity,  for  their 
residence  during  the  winter  months." 


THE  END. 


